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Found 1,594 results

  1. Hello It's really a long time I haven't entered in a group build here. This time I have chosen an early F-4E in Israeli Defense Force in 1973. To build this aircraft I have selected in my stash the Revell F-4F which has nearly everything to make a Kurnass (Sledgehammer). Actually, I had to take from a Fujimi kit the sloted stabilators as the F-4F did not have those. Here is the box art and first pictures of the build will follow soon. Cheers. Patrick
  2. Line Engraver (39080) Revell Revell have a growing line of tools that they offer to the modelling masses via their extensive dealer network, allowing modellers to pick up tools on a whim from a shop that might otherwise not stock more esoteric brands. The engraver arrives in a large blister pack with card backing that is covered with the distinctive Revell triangular patterning. Cutting the pack open at the sides reveals the inner layer of clear plastic that traps the scriber between it and the outer blister. I pushed it out from behind and it pinged across the workshop before I could get it under control – avoid doing that if at all possible! Once I'd recovered it from the floor without damage I had a good look over it and it bears a resemblance to many other tools out there, but with the Revell logo printed on one side in colour. It has a tough metal blade at the business end with a scalpel-like cutting surface perpendicular to the handle, which invites you to use the very tip to score lines on your project. It's worth mentioning here that it's a sharp blade and more than a little bit stabby, so take the same precautions that you'd take with a standard scalpel or craft blade and you won't end up losing any/too much blood. Please be careful - we don't have 10 fingers for nothing you know (ok, 8 and two thumbs). As with most engraving tools you draw the blade toward you, which is where the "never cut towards yourself" rule goes out of the window. It's best to proceed with light strokes too, so that if you over-run you don't ruin your hard work. With that in mind, when I demoed it I made a number of lines with an increasing number of strokes of the tool. It doesn't show up too well on white styrene, so I primed the opposite side of the test card with some Tamiya primer, so you can see the white lines it makes as it cuts through. You can thank @Julien for that surprisingly simple but good idea. This is a true engraving tool, and it cuts a fine V-shaped groove in the styrene, rather than pushing the styrene apart like the tip of a needle does. This results in little curls of plastic as you engrave, and when you have finished, a burnish of the edges with a cocktail stick will remove any burrs and soften the line just enough to look professionally done. The other notable feature of the engraver is that successive strokes don't widen the groove very much, so your panel lines won't end up looking like they've been done by the Matchbox panel line guy of yore. You can use Dymo tape, a metal rule or PE template to make your marks straight and/or curved, and as always practice makes perfect. Conclusion This kind of tool is an impressive engraver that takes little skill to use, and with a bit of practice can create nice crisp lines with 2-3 passes of the tool. Thanks to Revell's market penetration and distributor network you should be able to pick one up if you suddenly need one when you're at a bricks & mortar model shop. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  3. Hi all, this is going to be my Halloween season build for this year, should be a lot of fun. I don't intend on using the leopard skin decals they are way too naff for my liking, and I won't be painting them on, not sure what I will come up with yet, but I have an idea! As for the paint job, well I intended on painting the car in a metal flake black, with purple flecks in the lacquer. This is a 60's kit (re boxed in the 80's) and it sure does show its age, makes you appreciate how good modern kits are, but I guess it's all modelling at the end of the day; this kit was bought out as a replica of the actual convertible that Elvira drove in the movie. Among the creepy extras the front grille has a ghoulish spider web. Stay tuned for the next update.
  4. I am currently working on a Revell 787-8 kit in 1/144which will be displayed in the Qatar Airways livery. I like the kit, I tend to find that the larger Revell kits go together really well and they are easier to work with than the smaller variants in 1/144 Scale. I had to make the antennas as they aren’t supplied in the kit, and I think with more practice I can make the missing ‘bumps’ on the upper fuselage. I think I am becoming a big fan of the Zvezda brand of kits, the only thing that would improve them overall is the kit decals having more detail. I am going to attempt some Authentic Airliner decals for the first time with this build and hope it will add to the ‘realness’ of the model. It is fully built now, and will start with the main decals soon and wait for the windows and cockpit decals to arrive to complete the model. I built the base board myself using an old piece of cardboard, to help display the larger models as my smaller one would look out of place with the 787 on it, and I plan on building an A350 and B773 soon too. My daughter was quite upset that the people couldn’t get on to the plane so I had to make her an Airbridge to enable them to get on and off... the things we do for children . My photos show her arriving on stand and then with the Airbridge attached. Will post more photos as the model progresses and the finished product in RFI once done . Regards, Alistair
  5. F/A-18 Super Hornet (04994) 1:32 Revell The Boeing F/A-18E Super Hornet is the second generation F/A-18 following on the the F/A-18C. The F/A-18E was developed from the original Hornet and while it may look alike its very much a new aircraft which is 25% bigger. The US Navy managed to keep the F/A-18 designation partly to make the US Congress believe it would be a low risk development from the original aircraft (not the first time in US Aviation this has happened). The new aircraft was ordered in 1992 with a first flight in 1995. The aircraft introduced a new era in electronics including an active electronically scanned array (AESA) radar, bigger displays and a helmet mounted sighting system. To date the Super Hornet has replaced the legacy Hornet in all US Navy operations apart from the USN Aerobatic Team The Blue Angels, and even they will have transitioned by 2021. As well as the E model there is the two seat F model, and the latest development the G or "Growler" Electronic Warfare Aircraft. The Kit This is a new tool kit from Revell for 2019. It arrives in a rather large box which is packed with mainly rather large sprues. The bigger ones being 60 cms across! The first job on the build is to construct the full length intake and exhaust trunking. Fan fronts and exhaust ends are placed in the trunking and its all buttoned up. The underside of this trunking forms the topside of the main wheels wells and they are built up onto the trunking. The lower main fuselage and lower parts of the intakes are then attached, followed by the fuselage sides (which also contain the top of the intakes). The exhaust nozzles can then be placed on the back of the fuselage, a choice between open and closed nozzles is provided. The lower parts of the main wings (left & right) are then attached to the main fuselage. Once these are on the large single part top wing/body part can be attached but only after first putting in the inserts for the topside airbrakes. We can now move onto the cockpit (normally where we start!) The bottom of the cockpit section forms the roof of the front wheel well and the sides for the well are attached first followed by the front bulkhead. The cockpit tub can then be placed on the top. To this is added the instrument panel and the control column. The ejection seat is then built up and added, The seat is a mulitpart affair, however the belts are moulded in, and in this scale the seat would really benefit PE belts. Once the seat is in the instrument coaming can also be fitted and the cockpit placed into the forward fuselage halves. The nose cone can be fitted and then the forward fuselage joined to the main body. A main top spine part behind the cockpit is then added. The vertical tails with their separate rudders are then made up and added to the main fuselage with a scrap diagram showing the correct angles for these. Once on the arrestor hook parts can be fitted under the main body. We now move to the undercarriage which is quite complex for the Hornet. The front unit and its wheels are built up and fitted to the front bay, the doors and their retraction struts are then fitted. Both sets of main gear get the same treatment. The main gear doors are supplied as one part and must be cut up into their components for the gear down. The outer wings can either be down or folded up as they would be parked. For these the correct hinge assembly needs to be selected. The outer wings can then be built up and added. The main wings are then finished off. While the centre sections are already there the leading edge slats and trailing edge flaps are fitted. The exhaust nozzles are then fitted to the back. Up at the front the glazing is added. For the main canopy the clear parts fit into a normal plastic frame, An integral boarding ladder is provided if wanted in the lowered position. To finish of the tail planes are added along with a few aerials. Revell provide us with a whole host of things to hang under the wings. As well as the pylons a centre line tank, and wing fuel tanks are in the box. Wing tip missile rails are included as well as AIM-9M and AIM-9X missiles for them. AIM-120C missiles are also provided. In term of things which go bang when dropped 2 x GBU-12, 2 x GBU-31-3B, and 2 x GBU-38s are provided. An AN-ASQ-228 ATFLIR sensor pod is also included. Decals The decal sheet from cartograf (so no issues there) provides markings for two aircraft. F/A-18E Bu No.166957 - "Vampires 111" Test & Evaluation Sqn VX-9, NAWS China Lake. F/A-18E Bu No.166651 - "Gunslingers 401" strike Fighter Sqn VFA-105. USS Harry s Truman 2010 Conclusion This should make up to a good looking if rather large model, highly recommended for those who like to go big! Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  6. My first F-14 on a 1/144 scale. I used the following add-ons Shelf Oddity – photoetched metal plate Res-im – resin elements Master – pitot tube
  7. Airbus A380-800 Lufthansa New Livery (03872) 1:144 Revell The A380 is a wide bodied super-heavy airliner from the European consortium Airbus, and its entry into service took the crown away from the venerable Boeing 747 as the largest passenger aircraft in the world by a significant margin. It has recently announced that they will cease production in 2021 due to changes in the aviation world, and as the wings are made down the road from me I wonder how that will affect them. Not too badly I'd hope. It first flew in 2005 from the Airbus HQ in Toulouse, and over 200 airframes have been delivered so far with the final total nudging 300 by the time the lines close. Unfortunately for Airbus, the airlines have become more interested in smaller aircraft to reduce their losses when flying less than capacity as well as the flexibility that comes with it. Emirates have been their largest customer with almost half the production flying under their banner, and BA have been the second largest. There have been a few non-fatal incidents during its service so far, which has probably affected its sales, and Airbus don't expect to break even on their £25bn development costs by the time production finishes. Having seen it in flight it is a true behemoth of the skies, and the huge sweeping wing-root and forest of landing gear makes it an impressive sight. It didn't just pip the Boeing 747 past the post in terms of size – it's 40% larger than the old Jumbo Jet, but with even the 747 under threat of ending production, the A380 is and will remain a much rarer sight. The Kit This is a re-release of their 2002 original kit, following on from the Technik edition with sound and lights earlier this year. It's the new Lufthansa livery which we've seen before, but it's a welcome re-release all the same. It arrives in a top-opening box for a change, and inside are lots of large white sprues – eight in total, plus a small sprue of clear plastic for the transparencies, a super-long decal sheet and the instructions in the new style with three pages of profiles showing the decal placement and painting instructions. The size of the sprues is the first thing of note, but that's hardly surprising given the size of the real thing, moulded in some really shiny white plastic with fine engraved panel-lines and raised detail where appropriate plus twin rows of windows running down each side. Construction begins with the cockpit, which is still fairly rare in airliner kits, and it has a moulded in coaming, three crew seats and rear bulkhead with access door moulded-in. Parts are included to model the kit in flight or on the ground, with the former involving a long jump to the end of the instructions for the fitting of the closed gear bay doors. If you're deploying the gear, you start with a well-detailed nose gear leg with twin wheels that fits into a bay with moulded-in sidewall details. The inside main gear legs are equally detailed with three wheels per side to spread the weight, and separate brake calliper parts behind each of the six wheels. These too have their own bays and when complete are set aside for a little while for the wings to be built-up with wingroot and tip lights added before gluing the whole 12" long halves together. The fuselage is then brought together after populating the sides with gear bays, the cockpit, and a pair of additional bays that will receive the outer main gear later. You're advised to add 40g to the nose to prevent it tail-sitting, and there's a ton of room in there so siting it won't be an issue, just remember to glue it down well so it doesn't come loose while you're Neowwwwming! it around the room… sorry, I mean transporting it. The fuselage joins will need to be strong, so consider adding a few extra tabs along the top line that will make hiding the seam an easier job with less risk of cracking the new join. The majority of the wing weight will pull down in the top seam, so a strong join in that area is key to your model's long term health, so bear that in mind. The wings fit using the usual tab and slot method, which might benefit from the addition of a couple of spars through the middle to take some of the strain from the top seam. A couple of brass rods with easily drilled holes would be my choice, but you may well have better ideas (it's highly likely). The fuselage between the wings is a separate insert that joins the two halves and includes cut-outs for the gear bays. Careful test-fitting and fettling will make the task an easier one, and at the same time the inner doors of the outer main bays (what?) are put into position, as these are usually closed on the ground unless there's maintenance going on. The outer main gear legs are then made up in the same manner as the others with their captive gear door attached as it goes into place. Again, there's a separate brake part that fits between the wheels and the axles, with only four wheels per assembly, with one under each wing root. The wings that were made up earlier are simply the aerofoil shapes to which all the detail is added, and need the aerodynamic cowlings around the flap actuators that are made up from two halves, and you'll need to keep a note of which construction step they relate to, possibly by marking the inside with a pen or paint. These little chaps will be glued into the recesses under the wings later on. The elevators are next, with two parts each making up the flying surfaces, which also fit using the slot and tab method, and even these are larger than some 1:72 fighter wings. These are fitted along with the flap track fairings before you begin working on the engines. The engines in the Lufthansa fleet are the Rolls-Royce Trent, and they hang four of them under the wings on custom pylons, which necessitates four separate build-steps due to the difference in shape and handing of the cowlings and their moulded-in pylons. The core of the engine is the same throughout, consisting of a front fan and a five-part rear assembly with another fan visible around the bullet-fairing at the rear. Each one is trapped between the cowling halves and a single piece intake lip is inserted at the front that makes for a nice smooth lip with no ugly seamlines to deal with. Each one has a small additional fairing inserted at the rear to complete construction of the engines. They are each pinned in place under the wing according to their construction step number, so again – keep a note. The airframe is ostensibly complete, but some details are yet to be added, such as the windscreen that you may want to install earlier so that you can fill any gaps around it to give it that overall sleek, smooth look that most airliners have. The new fuel-saving scimitar wingtip fairings are also glued in place, as are numerous antennae, pitot probes and the fuel-dump fairing at the rear of the fuselage. The remainder of the gear bay doors are supplied as pre-engraved single pieces that you can fit as a single part for in-flight models, or cut apart to use with wheels deployed. The nose gear door is cut into three parts, the larger front one posed closed with the other two to each side of the bay. The inner main bays are both attached to the sides of the bay in the open position, while the outer main gear doors have separate parts if they're to be posed closed. Markings Just the one option in this boxing, but that's why you bought it, right? The new Lufthansa livery with the large blue stripe on the tail and their logo writ large on the fin in white. It's a massive sheet and there are a lot of decals with five tail codes and a choice of clear windows with silver surrounds, or darkened ones, depending on how you like your windows. The same option is provided for the windscreen, there are decals for all the doors, access panels and even some decals around the engines. Then of course there are the wing walkways, which are super-fine, and even the spinner decals for the engines so you can see when they're going round. There is even a section of Lufthansa blue that you can use to match the paint, which you're going to need because you will have to mask and paint that colour. The decals have been designed by Daco Products for Revell, and are printed by Zanetti, with good registration, sharpness and colour density, plus a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion It's always good to see the A380 re-released, and although it wasn't a massive commercial success at 1:1, I think Revell have done rather better as they have reboxed it a number of times now. The detail is good, the decals are excellent, and if Revell hadn't asked us to remix black and midnight blue 90/10 to make up the correct shade but had used their "Lufthansa Blue" shade 36350 which is called "Dark Blue" on the English language site, it would have been just that little bit closer to perfect. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  8. Hi all. Quack's back....... This is my second build on BM. I had initially hoped to work through a WIP and started it here.. Unfortunately my brain self destructed and I forgot how to post pics (or summat changed in the land of Flickr) and I found I couldn't continue. Having redicovered the means to post pics again it is clearly time once more to inflict damage on everybody's precious retinas...... The source is a Revell repop of the Airfix 1/48 Jaguar and the plan was to finish it as a Granby kite This was my second build and I used the opportunity to try some new (to me) tricks. This was my first time applying surgery to a kit to install a resin cockpit. Resin intakes were also used - another first for me. I also tried modifying the rather unconvincing fuel dump pipe with a bit of carving and brass rod, and tried also to scratch build in a minor / beginners way (FOD covers). The large Naca intake on the spine was carved out and floored with plastic card. minor stuff really just to have a go. Finished with Xtracrylix and pinwash/ oil / pastels to muddy things up. Aaaaaaand here's the result - second kit in errr....40 or so years. 100.jpg by Niall Robertson, on Flickr 80.jpg by Niall Robertson, on Flickr 94.jpg by Niall Robertson, on Flickr 82.jpg by Niall Robertson, on Flickr 82.jpg by Niall Robertson, on Flickr 88.jpg by Niall Robertson, on Flickr 86.jpg by Niall Robertson, on Flickr 96.jpg by Niall Robertson, on Flickr 98.jpg by Niall Robertson, on Flickr I'm broadly happy with the construction side of things. I've definitely improved since my last build. I'm really not happy with the finish however. I think the Desert Sand (Xtracrylix) is a bit dark - I should have lightened it up a bit. I also tried using the Hairspray method to wear away the top layer to reveal cammo green / grey underneath but the top layer simply would not budge - hopefully somebody will tell me the correct way to do this. I'm also a bit disappointed with the Pink Spitfire figure (Xtradecals) which seems to have no facial colour resulting in a bit of a washed out white appearance and lacks definition. I'm already thinking of totally re-doing the finish on this one. So Questions as follows. 1/ do I need to take the finish back to plastic? 2/ could I just remove the decals (how best?) and spray on top? 3/ any tips for successful hairspray weathering? 4/ anybody got an old set of 1/48 decals for The (avid) Guardian Reader???? Cheers all. Q
  9. Hello guys, as per the title, does anyone have any building tips for Revell's Ju 88A-1 in 1:32? Especially around the cockpit area. My first attempt at this model ended up with horrible gaps around the nose and cockpit area. With the second model, I learnt from my mistakes and managed to evade any issues with the cockpit. Sadly I had to trash the model after a shelf fell over it. Now, this will be my third attempt to build this plane, and I would like to receive some building tips. I plan on finishing this third model as my second one, B3+DR from KG54. Any building tips will be helpful, especially any tips regarding the fit of the cockpit and the sidewalls to the fuselage halves. I already have SAC's white metal landing gear to replace the plastic ones from the kit. Thank you very much, Francisco.
  10. Thought I'd share some pictures of my Krupp Titan build's status quo. Wiring and piping, decals and a few things more were scratched. The engine is a fast CA-glue-fit (later on I'll explain why) and will be completely refitted later. The chassis was extended twice, about 2 inch total. One example:
  11. Hi all, Part 2 of my Bullitt themed build: Lt. Frank Bullitt's '68 Ford Mustang GT Fastback. Again no real work done except the same stripping, cleaning, mold removal and dulling of plastic in readiness of the primer. The caveat to these two builds is that they represent my first efforts with what seem to be quite decent and detailed kits of cars. I have previously made a kit of a Ford Capri 1600 GT for my Dad as a gift and painted up as his favourite motor but the kit itself left a lot to be desired as did my paintwork, so an improvement on that finish is my goal for these two models, but having researched I am amazed at the results some guy's can achieve, however I won't be able to use some of the noxious paints and clear coats they do, so we'll see. Anyway, I love this car too, if I ever win the lottery...it'll be a hard choice....maybe both! Cheers, Mark.
  12. Hi I’ve never posted in this section before, as all my model are normally of the Sci Fi variety but another passion of mine is the Pirates of the Caribbean films, so when I saw the 1/72 scale Revell model of the Black Pearl, I had to have it. First impressions are that the box is huge and there are tons of individual pieces, all well moulded and crisp. Lots of thread for the rigging (not looking forward to that bit), so far so good, but the quality of the instructions are a let down. Black and white photocopied instruction not even stapled together doesn’t fill me with joy, considering the kit was nearly £90. Oh well on with the build. Airbrushed the big pieces the required Anthracite grey, and the sails a lighter grey. Will hand paint the smaller bits. I did a fair bit before I remembered to take some photos, also I’ve gone cannon crazy having made 32 of them. Each cannon has seven individual sections! p.s. I have never built a ship of any kind before so be gentle with me.
  13. I built this little kit as a paint test mule for my spraycan of "Rover-Vermilion" from Halford's. I had the 1.32 scale Hawk on the go at the time, and done a scratch built flap makeover on it. So when I looked at building this one, I started wondering what if......? It was a bit more fiddly at this scale, but worth having a go. It's a very noticeable feature of the Hawk that when they're parked the flaps are down, and they don't go up again until the engine is fired up. (BM walkaround pic) It's a feature that is ignored by all the makers, even in the huge 1.32 example by Revell. And looking around on the modelshow tables it doesn't seem to be something that modellers go for very often. Anyhow, I thought I ought to post her on here just to encourage any Hawk builders to reach for the knife and saw! I think it's worth the effort. Thanks for looking
  14. We've got some great new offers on Revell items with up to 50% off RRP on many incoming kits, as well as reductions on existing stock. While stocks last.
  15. Here is my first finished build of 2019 its Revell 1:24 Volkswagen T1 Samba Bus "Flower Power". Actually I built it with my daughter over the Christmas and we just finished it last week. It was a co-production and she actually did a fair amount of building, the airbrushing and the simpler decal work . I have to say she did a good job but I have a new found respect for model car builders ; trying to get a smooth finish on these things is though and I still have a lot to master here. Great kit and colourful result and I would actually build another one ...in a zombie apocalypse theme regards Brian
  16. More or less in a month, I´ll be having my Winter recess (after an exam in which I don´t have anything to study from aside for a bunch of schemes thrown out there without any words), and from the seven kits I have on my stash, I picked this one to become sixth build. The model itself is over 40 years old, from the now gone Frog. It doesn´t have much flash, but it does have some moulding defects, and the propeller was designed to turn to the wrong way. The kit comes with only one decal option, Green 9, Willi Reschke´s aircraft. I saw on a video build for this aircraft that the only area with gaps will be the wing/fuselage join, so I may use filler on said gaps (I don´t want to use any, to preserve the panel lines).
  17. Leftenant Aluminium here with my 1/12th scale titanium and chromoly Suzuki motocross bike of 1970. It is seven inches (17 cm) from nose to tail. The result captures the colourful, exciting, and optimistic outlook of the early 1970s, at least as it seems to me. It is basically the Revell kit of 1974, but with rider (two actually) and modern parts from Tamiya Honda and KTM motocross bike kits. See Building Joël Robert’s Suzuki motocross bike in 1/12th scale: Page on my web site See also my next topic on this site: Mr Moto Cross -- Revell 1/12th scale Husqvarna
  18. Well I have not made a model for over 30 years and this is my first attempt. This is my first foray into using an airbrush and acrylics. I used Vallejo model air for this build. I didn’t realise how things have moved on and the detail now included. Any ideas how to add aging to the paint so it doesn’t look like new would be appreciated. I have a 1/48 P-51d tamiya mustang 8th AF or a Messerschmitt Bf109E-4/7 Trop and can’t decide which to do next ?
  19. Good evening everyone, I thought it might be worth shifting my attempt at the RAF Centenary Groupbuild to the WIP area, seeing as I never had chance of meeting the deadline! (The build can be found by clicking here) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, To bring everyone up to speed: -I plan to build a representation of the Panavia Tornado ZA326 in its iconic raspberry ripple colours. I'll be using the 1:32 Tornado GR1 kit from Revell and an abundance of plasticard, to model her with a plethora of panels open (nose, side electronics bays, ground equipment connection points, the spine, and maybe even an open engine bay!) Here are a few select images which visually describe the process so far: (Note that the paintwork on bits and bobs has been tidied up since these images were taken) What's the plan of action going forward, then? -Nose electronics bay -Nose hinge and detailing -Cockpit wiring -Fuselage panels and internal gubbins -Fuselage rescribing (+rivets, should they be required) -Engine bay (there might be a bit of a surprise in that regard, stay tuned!) -Wings -Other (landing gear, etc) It will be a slow (I've got a summer placement in a research lab at my university) but hopefully steady project. As for references that I'll be using: The good General's own Tornado build The Tornado SIG The ZA326 group's Flickr Stay tuned for more! Best wishes, Sam
  20. Hi everyone, More of a 'what might have been' than 'what if'. In the mid 2000’s in the Republic of Ireland, consolidation of aircraft and responsibilities led to a competition to replace the Air Corps’ 40-year-old Alouettes in the Army liaison role with a new, larger utility type helicopter that could also fulfill a Medium lift role. The competing types for the order were the proven Sikorsky Blackhawk, the Eurocopter Cougar and the Agusta-Bell (now Agusta Westland) AB139 which was originally designed as a civilian machine and at that time had no military users. From what I’ve read, the Irish Air Corps and Army’s preference was the Blackhawk - which members of our Forces (particularly our Ranger Spec Ops Wing), were familiar with having being part of the UN operation in East Timor with Australian Blackhawks and also while on training ops in the US. The Blackhawk’s service record worldwide was regarded as being better than the Cougar. There were also reports that Sikorsky offered a very good deal to the Irish Government which would have brought six new a/c and six reconditioned machines for a very competitive price. In the end, the AW139 was selected and the Air Corps became the first military operator of the type. Six aircraft currently serve with No. 3 Operations Wing. For what it's worth, Agusta Westland have now developed a pure military version, the larger AW149. So here it is, Revell's re-box of Italeri's UH-60A in Irish Air Corps markings. If you're interested, the full WIP build is here. This was the first....and last Revell/Italeri Blackhawk I'll build....really poor fit and general detail and it can't really hold it's own against the newer Hobby Boss kits which I'd rate as being far superior. Oh well, you live and learn! Cheers, Dermot
  21. Right, my first WIP topic. Normally I'm only active in the Dutch ModelBrouwers forum, but I was persuaded to post a WIP here as well :). I usually build vintage civil aircraft (i.e. VC-10, Trident, 707, etc.) and I'm especially a fan of Soviet build civil aircraft, but from time to time I build more modern aircraft as well (as stated before, my goal is to have at least one model of every type of civil aircraft that has room for at least 12 passengers and has a closed cockpit). As for the liveries, I try to build them in Dutch colours (KLM, Martinair, Transavia, Air Holland, etc.). If none of the Dutch companies has flown in it I just choose what I like or is available. Since a few years ago I have made a rule for myself to only start a new build when an old one is finished. That has worked very well for me as I now actually finish models! There are still a few unfinished models from a few years ago though and the A330-300 is one of them. As such, I figured it's now time to finished it! I flew in the A330-300 in December 2011 to New York, albeit an A330 operated by Delta. All right, let’s get started! I’m pretty sure the A330 is well known amongst civil aviation enthousiasts, so I’m not going to write too much about the aircraft itself. It has been developed in conjunction with the A340 and in the A330-300 version there is room for 436 passengers. The two main versions are the -200 and -300 and the latest version will be the NEO. KLM operates both the -200 and -300. The kit is from Revell. I'm not going to spend too much time to make it as accurate as possible (its an OK kit alread). I’m aware of the fact that the nose isn’t entirely correct and the winglets are a bit too straight. It doesn’t bother me too much, so I will leave it as it is in this case. The kit comes with PW engines, but KLM uses the GE engines. At first I was contemplating scratch building the GE engines, but luckily 26 decals supplies a resin GE set, so I bought those instead This was the state I left the model in 5 years ago. At the time I always left the windows open. I never leave them open now, so I will close them with putty. Normally I close windows outside in, but obviously that's not possible now anymore :p. The decals that come with the kit are excellent. Designed by Gaston Roca from Nazca Decals and printed by Cartograf. The KLM decals are from DRAW. I have used them before on my MD-11 and they are very good as well. The Corogard is from 8A decs. The window and cockpit decals are from Authentic Airliners The first thing I did was fill up the windows with filler. I used mostly Revell putty for this. I masked it with tape, so you don't get too much putty on the model. I did the same with the rest of the fuselage. The result after the first sanding session. It's been a while since I last did a widebody so my arm is aching from all that sanding! The first round of primer. I used Vallejo primer, which I generally use. As always, there are some seams left, so a second round of putty is necessary. In this case I use filler for cars, as you can sand it really smooth. The result after the second round of sanding.... ...and the result after the second round of primer. I'm happy actually with the result so far, apart from some small seams. That will be corrected in the third round of sanding/priming. And that's where I'm at. Plenty of work ahead of me. To be continued! Regards, Martijn
  22. This is not my usual fayre so please don't expect anything too fancy from this build, which will be made as it comes in the box. All tips for simple improvements I can make along the way will be welcome, and so folks, I give you the box and its contents. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr
  23. Embraer 190 - Lufthansa New Livery (03883) 1:144 Revell Designed and built in Brazil by Embraer aerospace, the 190 has been in service since 2005. The 190 is a 100 - 124 seat regional airliner with a very successful sales and operation history, with more than 500 having been sold. Its sister, the Embraer 195 features a 2.5 metre fuselage stretch and capacity for more passengers, but a a reduction in range from 3500 km down to 2600 km. The 190/195 was developed from the Embraer 170/175 by stretching the fuselage and adding a new wing, tailplane and engines. The Kit First released around 2015, this re-release adds a new set of decals for the latest Lufthansa livery. I built one of these early releases in 2017 and can confirm that it assembles and fits very well, and will give a good result for all builders from novice to experienced. Comparing this kit with my Aurigny 195 (Boxed as the 'Air Dolomiti version) confirms that the fuselage features the reduced length of the 190, and so is not a simple reissue of exactly the same sprues. Unusual for a 1/144 scale airliner kit, construction begins with the cockpit. A neat little unit is provided, which can actually be seen through the nice clear windshield on the finished model. A small amount of nose weight is required to prevent tail sitting, 20g being suggested in the instructions. Once the fuselage halves are together the main wheel bay is fitted to the under fuselage belly plate, which is then added. The wings are two pieces each, moulded with integral winglets which eliminates the need for getting them aligned properly as on kits where they are separate parts. The wings fit very well to the fuselage, followed by the tailplanes. On my earlier build the fit was so good that they can be added after painting, which makes masking very much simpler. Engines are nicely detailed with a two part core and separate intake fans and exhaust cones. These are fitted inside the two part pylon/cowling units, finished off with a one piece cowling front. The beauty of these is that you don't get an inside joining seam, the inner intake is completely smooth, so full marks to Revell for this. Once the engines and flap tracks are fitted to the wing, a choice can be made with the undercarriage, either up or down. The legs and wheels are so beautifully moulded, it would be a shame not to use them though. The clear sprue holds the cockpit windshield, which fits neatly into the slot in the fuselage. [Edit] Comparison of the Revell Embraer 195 fuselage(Aurigny) with this 190 kit, showing that Revell have correctly shortened it [/Edit] Markings Just one, as it says on the box 'Lufthansa new livery'. It is in overall white with silver leading edges on wings, engines, and tailplanes. The blue tailplane will need to be masked and painted by the modeller. The sheet looks to be high quality, with beautifully sharp and fine printing. Doors, stencils, and vents are well detailed, as are silver window surrounds. The cockpit windows get a very nice white surround, so there is no need to brush paint the frames. Options are given for seven different aircraft from the Lufthansa fleet, the only difference apart from the registration, is the the names that go under the 'Lufthansa CityLine' logo near the front doors. Conclusion This is a very nice kit to modern standards, which are few and far between for us airliner modellers. It is well moulded, builds easily and makes a surprising large model, similar in size to a Boeing 727-200. No glazing is supplied for the cabin windows, but the clear carrier film on the window decals will cover these. Alternatively Microscale Krystal Klear can be used, or you can fill them before closing the fuselage halves and use window decals. The Livery itself may not be to everyone's taste as it is rather plain and lacking in colour. However there is no shortage of aftermarket decals for the 190, including some very colourful options. As I said earlier, everyone from beginner to expert should get a good result from this kit. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  24. Hi there fellow modellers. First time post in ready for inspection. It’s my second build with my new airbrush (Revell’s basic set, single action) and my tenth build overall, so I ‘m still figuring things out. Overall I’m happy with the result but there are things that need improving. First of all when I painted the fuselage paint looked nice, really happy with the result. Then I gloss coated it before putting on the decals (with Vallejo gloss acrylic varnish 26.517). After coating the paint didn’t look that nice/smooth anymore. In hind side I don’t know if the paint never was that smooth to begin with and the gloss coat just accented it or that I simply messed up applying the coating. (perhaps more/less coating?). I do know that after the coating the plane feels a bit sticky, even after 24 hours and is a dust magnet. After coating I did cover the plane with a shoebox to prevent dust falling on to it. Thinking about using another brand of gloss next time. The second thing I struggled with is putting the separately painted small parts on to the fuselage without messing up the paint or leaving glue residue. I know the preferred order is first gluing and then painting but with some parts I just don’t see any other way to pull it off. I guess experience and gaining more modelling skills will lead to improvement in this area. Then there is the fr#@k!ng canopy. For me without a doubt the most difficult part of a build. In videos I see all those people cutting maskingtape like it’s the easiest job in the world, but now, for me free brushpainting and scrapping the excess paint with a toothpick works best. I see a lot of improvement compared with my older builds but still a whole lot to gain. The Corsair purists among you will notice the paint color is a bit of. I think I messed up the color mixing percentages, but considering the points I mentioned above, it doesn’t bother me that much. My last build I started to use Tamiya panel line accent color but the panel lines on this kit are so shallow that I didn’t think the result would justify the work I had to put in. Well, all the disclaimers are in place so plane is ready for inspection!
  25. While the daughter and her boyfriend are up visiting for the next couple of weeks i have been turfed out of my model room but I can still use the old garage but this means that the battle class build will be on hold until then as I do not want to start moving all the stuff around and end up where something goes missing. So to keep my sanity in place i will be doing this quite modern TUG it will be a OOB build no fancy detailing just for a bit of fun and to keep me out of the way with most of my stash. Seem to remember someone else doing this kit with a lot of detail added Side open boxes don't work for me so i cut this one open to have a flap lid Main hull and upper structures go together quite well and a coat of primer normally just use this desk and workbench as a spraying area but back to using it as a build desk again beefy
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