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Found 1,611 results

  1. Poe's Boosted X-Wing Fighter (06777) 1:78 Revell Build & Play From Star Wars the last Jedi Poe Dameron is a resistance X Wing pilot who brings Finn and Rey into the story. As an X-Wing pilot he has his own fighter. The Kit As part of Revell's licencing of Star Wars from Disney they are releasing a whole host of kits for modellers of all ages. This is aimed at the cross over between toys and kits in that its pre-painted and ready to go with some easy click together construction. The unit also has a sound module built in complete with batteries so its ready to go. Construction is fairly simple. First the X Wings lock together, then the lower hull is added. The the cockpit and Poe figure are added along with the front landing skid and rear bulkhead. The hinged canopy is added to the top hull and this can then be joined to the lower. Parts are added to the rear of the hull. Then the engine pods and laser cannons can be added to the wings. Finally the rear landing skids are added. To activate the sound module a tape has to be pulled out. The batteries are in a screw locked compartment so cant easily be removed by children. Sounds are played by pressing the droid behind the cockpit. Conclusion There is always the debate as to are these a model or a toy. I think they are a little simple for a model but a great way to get children interested in doing something a little more advanced, and for the right age group that ony has the be encouraged (Revell recommend this for Age 6+). Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  2. Hi, getting round to starting the GR4 that's been sitting round for ages. Going to be building Goldstar farewell scheme
  3. Hello All, Another long term work in progress that has made it to the bench again. This time it is the Revell EA6A Wild Weasel. I started this several years back. It is a bear of a kit. with many hard to fill gaps , especially in the wheel wells. I did my best to fill them with strip plastic..they came out OK. Many of the panel lines at the intakes and underside panel were lost do to poor fit so those were rescribed. I don't worry about mixing raised and scribed lines. In any case hope you enjoy the pictures and as always any comments are greatly appreciated. All the Best! Don
  4. I want to start a second build. It will be the 1/2700 Revell Imperial Star destroyer. It is from origin a Zvesda kit that Revell has reboxed. It will be straight from the box. I think that the most work will go into the painting. Here are the pictures. The box and content. I have already made a first start, with mating the front and back hull parts. It is massive. The length is 60 centimeters. This now kneeds to dry before I can go further. Cheers,
  5. Hi All, I hope I can build this subject this year. There are couple others before in pipeline and I have some questions related to topic. D-AFFT was quite special plane. It was operated by Hansa Luftbild and this was basically unit to get intel information outside Germany before war. This plane crashed in Helsinki Malmi airport 1.10.1939 and crashed plane was returned quietly back to Germany. My first question is: Was this plane carrying cameras and if so where those were located? Second is: Should I use Revell kit as a starting point or Kora conversion set? Scan is from Suomen ilmailuhistoriallinen Lehti 2/1996
  6. Deutz D30 "Easy-click system" (07821) 1:24 Revell The D30 was a popular tractor produced by Deutz in the early to mid 1960s. It was powered by a twin cylinder four stroke diesel engine which gave it a top speed of 20 kmh. It was a popular tractor with over 35,000 being made in the companies factory in Koln. The Kit This is a new "easy-click system" kit from Revell which can be made up without glue or paint, though these can be used if required. This continues Revell's selection of entry level kits which is only to be applauded. As such the parts are moulded in the appropriate colours to be assembled straight from the box. Rubber tyres are also provided along with the plastic parts. The parts count is actually quite high and the finished model will be a good representation of the tractor in question. To start with the main transmission / engine assembly which is the heart of the tractor is made up. The front axle along with the wheels and tyres is added. The drivers seat and controls are then added into the main body. At the rear the wheel covers are made and added, the large rear wheels then get their tyres and these can be added as well. Once the front engine cover is added with its trim parts this essentially completes the model. Decals There is a small sheet of decals for the tractor which surprisingly are printed by cartograf so quality is assured there. As an alternative a sheet of stickers is also supplied. Conclusion This should make into a good looking model. This has a higher parts count and is more complicated than some other "easy" models I have seen so would not be suitable for smaller children, it should make up to an interesting project for slightly older ones though. Highly Recommended to get children along in the hobby. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  7. So with 2 group builds just finished I figured I needed some more styrene on the workbench. I had this in the stash and figured hopefully it will fit into the GB as what if/speculative, since there were only 3 prototypes ever built, the first an engine less glider (which crashed on landing), the second crashing due to engine failure on a test flight and the third prototype being captured at the end of WWII whilst still in construction. None were ever fitted with weaponry and probably never had camouflage markings. More information here on wikipedia. I'll be doing a camo scheme of my own devising, also building the kit as in flight as it looks a bit goofy with the over-sized tricycle undercarriage and without the sensor (pitot?) that the kit has underneath, so keeping the clean lines. 7 All the parts (including clear) come in one sealed plastic bag. There's very few sprues / parts - one sprue being entirely taken up by the wings. Instructions are typical of Revell at the time, just 2 sheets of A3 printed in monochrome, folded together. The decals don't look great, the transparent parts being particularly bad - maybe I'll be able to find something in my bits box to replace them?
  8. OK so I couldn't let all you 'rebel scum' have your own way in the group build I'm going to be building this: It's a Revell kit, but a rebox of a FineMolds kit, it's pretty pricey (for what you get), though I didn't pay full price for it. It's a pretty simple kit, all the parts come in a standard, pretty flimsy Revell cardboard box that opens on the ends. It includes some decals for the interior, etc. A colour instruction booklet 3 grey sprues (one entirely for the stand, other than the tiny Vader) and a clear sprue for the window/top hatch, all shoved together in a single bag (other than the clear parts in a separate bag inside). Note one of the pieces had detached in transit/storage and the handlebars/yoke has one of the very flimsy arms bent out of shape/almost about to snap off, the mouldings however seem pretty crisp with little or no flash, injector marks, etc. It seems like it'll be a pretty quick and fun build other than masking the canopy bits, I have no idea on how Revell rank their kits (this being the top level 5), I'm fairly sure I've built more complex aircraft from them before at lower ratings.
  9. OK here's my KUTA build. Started at the beginning of the year and flew as a build but has been languishing ever since, mainly due to a couple of reasons. firstly being tail heavy - which the kit warns about and says to weight the nose - I did (by gluing some ball bearings in and also some just behind the cockpit) but obviously not enough. This means I'm going to have to make her 'in flight' which will be a pain. Secondly there's an awful join just behind the cockpit area, which I'm not entirely sure how to fill - given there will be the multi-piece clear parts to attach. There's also a hole behind the rear seat - I'm not sure if that needs filling too. Anyhow let's attack it and see what I can do, better to try than leave the kit languishing.
  10. Finished this with a few parts missing . Very fiddly painting and sticking all the clear parts round the cockpit.
  11. Hi guys, I will build the 1/96 Revell Saturn V rocket, aka Apollo 11. I will build it staight from the box. The rocket was launched on the 16th of Juli 1969 For the first rocket to the moon with the landing on the moon as well. so now you know that I am from 1969. It is also the birth year of the kit itself. the down side of this kit is that there are no decals for the red letters. They are printed on the plastic. I can't show you jet, because I still need to make some pictures. I hope to do that later this week. There is a set of decals for it and I might get these for the build. Cheers,
  12. Antonov An.225 Mrija (04957) 1:144 Revell Beginning life as an enlargement of the An-124, the An-225 was developed to carry the Soviet Buran Space Shuttle, which obviously wasn't to be a long engagement, and after a period in mothballs, it was re-engineered to be used by Antonov for carrying oversize loads, which it now does all over the world. There is only one airframe in existence due to the expiry of funding during construction of the 2nd airframe, which after more than a few false-restarts, only now might see completion to be used by another carrier in China. It holds a few world records for wingspan of an operational aircraft and for carrying the heaviest single load. The conversion of the An-124 involved lengthening the fuselage and wings to accommodate another two engines, and of course the number of wheels and gear legs were increased too to spread the load around, with the innovative "kneeling" nose wheel arrangement that makes loading cargo through the front visor an easier task. Its first commercial flight involved transporting four main battle tanks, a task that gives an idea of the huge capacity in terms both of volume and weight that this monster has. It has been surprisingly active, as its capacity and cost hits the right spot on more occasions than you would think. It also pinched the title of largest cargo plane in service from the American C-5 Galaxy, which it is fairly substantially bigger than, even in 1:144. The Kit This is a re-release from Revell of their completely new tool. At first look it might seem an odd choice when you consider that there is only one airframe extant on this blue marble of ours. That said, it is a stunningly massive monster of a gigantic behemoth. Seriously though, if you've ever seen this aircraft at a show or in the air, it will have made an indelible impression on your retina, as your mind struggles to comprehend just how large it is. The same thing will probably cross your mind when you admire the box on the shelf of your local hobby shop, or when it arrives at your front door. It's a big'un with the box measuring 43 x 60 x 12cm, and yes. It's also a top-opener, which is nice. There are only seven sprues of white styrene, plus one of clear parts, but with the exception of the clear parts, they're pretty large sprues, and there are a lot of parts. The boxing is very much a paired down version of the original kit, there is no separate nose, no interior and no landing gear, indeed a stand is now included to display the model on. First impressions are excellent. The quality of the tooling is very fine and crisp as befits a 1:144 model, with lots of detail.. The breakdown of the parts also shows a great deal of thought has been put into the construction and long-term welfare of the model once it is on display. Construction begins with the interior structure that will support the massive kit, there are to bulkheads and a linking part. The tiny cockpit is a single part that is painted up and attached to the top of the roof at the front, while another spacer is fixed to the roof toward the rear of the assembly. At this point the fuselage is still open aft of the wing leading edge, which is closed by the large T-shaped insert that has a sturdy spar applied to its inside, and includes the inboard upper section of the wings for strength and to prevent any tricky seams being pulled open by the weight of the wings. At the rear another spar is installed in the tail to accept the empennage later in the build. The canopy is fitted at this point too, sliding in from the front. A similar insert is fitted under the fuselage straddling the main gear bays. As already mentioned, the upper wing root is a single part that spans the fuselage, and has a stiffening spar fitted to stop the model's own weight from pulling it apart. The upper wing panels are attached to the end of this centre section, with a portion of the spar and a U-shaped mating surface also helping seam integrity. This is all then hidden away by closing up the wing using the full-span lower panel, which is repeated on the other side, with clear wingtip lights added. The Mrija's angled H-tail is next, with the upstands and the horizontals made up from two parts each, fitted together over the aft spar to obtain the correct angle, with the uprights perpendicular to them, as shown in a scrap diagram. The two dorsal humps over the wing roots are made up from two parts each and applied to the surface on their raised positions. At this stage the 225 is looking like the world's biggest glider, as the wings are devoid of engines, of which you must now build six. The internals are identical, so with the fan, trunking and intake lip added together, they are inserted into the six external housings and pylons that are all different, so take note of which construction step each one represents with a mark inside the pylon or similar. Each wing also has six flap actuator fairings, which are two parts each and again fit in only one slot on the wing, so be careful not to get them mixed up. With those in place, the engine pods are added to their recesses on the wing, locating with two pins for additional strength. As this is the in-flight option has all the bay doors fitted flush. After a few aerials are fitted on the nose, additional drawings show how the two open options should look once complete. Markings One airframe in existence, so there's one scheme, right? Not quite, this decal sheet has markings the airframe wore 1992 to 2007, and the slightly different ones 2007 to 2008 The decal sheet is very long, as it has a set of cheat lines, they are printed for Revell by Cartogrf (designed by Daco), with good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The only thing that I will mention is that the yellow in the Ukrainian national markings is printed as orange for some reason? Conclusion It's hard not to be impressed by this kit, and not just from a point of view of size. The quality of the tooling is excellent, the level of detail is first-rate, and the engineering expertise that has gone into creating it is impressive, demonstrating a desire for the complete model to sit on your shelf for years to come without concern for it pulling itself to pieces under its own weight. Splendid! The price-point represents good value when compared to other similar-sized kits, and what's included improves that further. If you have the space in your stash and/or on your shelf, there's nothing holding you back, and even if you don't have the space, when has that ever stopped us? Extremely highly recommended. Revell model kits are also available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  13. First serious bit of modelling I've attempted in about forty years – so guess that makes me a newbie! My first experience of photoetch, acrylics, airbrush... you name it. So I wanted to do a subject I felt a connection to, and something that would stretch me to the max. So it's Revell's 1/32 Schnellbomber which will assume the guise of 4D+DH 'Dora Heinrich' of 1.KG30.
 This Ju 88A-1 fell to the guns of 603 (City of Edinburgh) Squadron on 16/10/39 during a Luftwaffe raid on RN ships in the Firth of Forth. 'Dora' was the first enemy bomber downed by the RAF over the British mainland in WWII, and was on the receiving end of the first ever Spitfire victory.
 I was born by the Forth, and have lived half my life on its banks, my family have worked for generations on its waters and in its docks and I live just a few miles from where 'Dora' ditched almost eighty years ago. So I thought I'd make her the first half of a 1/32 'Dogfight Double'. Eventually I'll get around to tackling her nemesis – XT-A 'Stickleback' a MkI Spit of 603 Squadron. Over a year in, having too much fun, here's some (unfinished) pit shots. Apologise for quality – taken with an iPhone4 Cockpit side walls, still needs wiring/some piping added Eduard PE, Aims and homemade decals Floor and curtains printed on inkjet Pilot seat, control column and BZG2 Bombsight
  14. Heinkel He 111 H-6 (03863) 1:48 Revell The He.111 was originated in secrecy, disguised as a civilian transport in the mid-30s, but once Nazi Germany came out of the closet and disregarded the Versailles agreement, it immediately became clear that they were rearming in a major way. The early civilian and military variants had a more traditional stepped canopy, and there is a famous piece of film that is used and reused in documentaries showing a D or "Dora" variant dropping bombs during the Spanish Civil War as part of the Condor Legion, which was Hitler's proving ground for his new designs and Blitzkreig tactics. Various revisions followed until the P, which introduced the now-iconic stepless fully glazed cockpit, which improved both aerodynamics and the pilot's situational awareness. The P series saw limited action in WWII as it was replaced by the more competent H variant, substituting Junkers Jumo 211 engines, detuned to give it the throbbing beat that was to be heard over Britain almost until the end of the war. The H-3 had an improved version of the engine and increased numbers of machine guns for self-defence. As is often the case with wartime development, the end of the Battle of Britain saw the introduction of the H-4 with better engines and external bomb racks. The H-6 had improvements in design. The Jumo 211 F-1 engine gave it increased. Defensive armament was upgraded with one 20 mm MG FF cannon in the nose, one MG 15 in the ventral turret, and in each of the fuselage side windows, some carried tail-mounted MG 17s. The performance of the H-6 was also improved; he climb rate was higher and the machine could reach a slightly higher ceiling. Overall weight of the H-6 increased to 14,000 kg (30,600 lb). The Kit This is a reboxing of the excellect ICM kit, ICM have raised their game substantially over the recent years and Revell are tapping into this with their homemarket distribution system. The kit arrives in their lidded top-opened with a glossy card lid and painting to top it off, with 11 sprues in medium, grey styrene, and two in crystal clear styrene, an instruction booklet in line-drawn colour, and a long decal sheet that can be found ensconced within the booklet. On opening the bags, it is very apparent that this is a modern tooling, with lots of lovely details, crisp moulding, and some very clever engineering on display. This version also includes torpedoes which the variant could use. Construction starts with the two wing spar parts, which are separated by the gear bay roof assemblies and a walkway part. Additional detail is added to the bulkheads along with the fuselage walkways and a smaller bulkhead toward the tail, with the lower portion of the mid-upper "turret" ring attached to the floor. The cockpit floor is then assembled with rudder pedals, instrument panels, seat and control linkages, slotting into the front spar once finished. An additional chair and the overhead instrument panel are installed later in the build. As a prelude to closing up the fuselage, the tail wheel is fitted together, which has the wheel moulded-in, and consists of three parts. Preparation of the fuselage halves involves adding the inserts into the wing roots and making good the join; inserting the paired side windows; adding ammo can racks; radio panel; the pilot's control column, and more glazing in the ventral gondola. The spar/cockpit assembly is then fitted to the starboard fuselage half and the port side is added along with some glue. The rudder is separate and fits to the fin with actuators, then the missing fuselage panels between the spars are added, which of course will need painting and fettling in if you're bothered about the "endoscope brigade". If you are intending to fit the tail armament option then the tail cone will need to be sawn off and the new one added. The mid-upper insert is designed to cater for different "turret" installations, and has a lovely serrated ring moulded-in, with controls and bracing strut added before it is installed into the fuselage opening, closing off much of the rear fuselage. You can pose the bomb bay open or closed by selecting one of the two panels, one of which has opening for the bomb bay, where the bombs are suspended tail-first in a framework that is peppered with lightening holes so that the included bombs are visible within. With the bomb bay finished, it is inserted into the fuselage from below, filling yet another gap in the skin. Even if you are leaving the bays closed, the bomb bay can be seen from the side windows, so it's best to build that assembly and install it anyway to prevent that section from being see-through from the sides. Racks for either bombs or torpedoes are added to the underside. The bombs themselves are built up from two halves that have two fins moulded-in, and a single part that fits on the tail forming the other two fins in a cruciform layout. To these are added stiffening brackets, with two bombs in total to make externally or two torpedoes. These are two part main bodies with main propeller and a 6 part tail to be made up and added. At this point the wings are begun, with the lower sides added to the fuselage/spar assembly first. The ailerons are separate, and are built up before the uppers are added, as are the elevators, and the two engines, which are provided in their entirety, along with much of the ancillary equipment and engine mounts. The completed Jumo 211s are fitted to the front of the spars and depending on whether you want to display them or not, and then enclosed by cowling panels, radiators and the intake/outlet ramps. The bottom cowlings can be split to reveal the engine detail, which is a good way of showing off the detail without ruining the lines of the aircraft. The upper wings and ailerons are fitted, the remaining cowling panels with the exhausts are added, with the latter having a decent indent at the tip to simulate being hollow, and finally the nose glazing, which has a machinegun and the aforementioned overhead instrument panel, which is moulded in clear styrene and is provided with a decal for the instruments. The nose "cone" is a separate clear part, and it too is fitted with a machine gun with a choice of single or twin drum mags and dump bag for the spent brass. Another two MGs are fitted to the front and rear glazing on the gondola, and the mid-upper gun is added to the turret ring, along with the protective clear shroud at the front. A different nose cone is provided if using the heavier armament and a different underside blister noses is included. A new clear rear blister nose is also included in the new box. A new open or closed top blister is also included. The main wheels are each built up from two halves, and placed between the twin legs that have the main retraction jacks moulded in, and secured with a number of cross-braces between the two legs. An additional ram is fitted within the bay, attached to the rear cross-brace. The gear bay doors fit to the bay sides with large tabs, as do the bomb bay doors if you are using them, and these last parts have the correctly separated four "petals" that are seen on the real thing, rather than a single panel. The props are made up from a single part with two part spinner and back plate, which fit onto the engine's output shaft through the vented front of the cowlings. Markings There are tow decal options included in the box, one of which share the same RLM70/71 splinter pattern over RLM65, and the other is in the ETO scheme as per the box top. From the box you can build one of the following: 1H+MM, 4./KG 26 Sicily Aug 1941 G!+EH, 1./KG 55, Russia, Aug 1941 Decals are designed by AirDOC and printed in Italy. These can easily be cut off before they are applied however, so it's not an issue. No swastikas are provided so the modeller will have to source these. Conclusion The He.111 is a truly iconic shape, and we're long overdue a new tooling of the type in this scale. This is a great kit for Revell to have in their inventory. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are also available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  15. A question for those more familiar with the various F-16 kits out there, specifically ESCI's F-16A as compared against the Revell kit. I wanted to get a Revell F-16A kit and as the only ones currently available are the MLU versions, I picked up an ESCI F-16A kit. It is very well done with respect to surface details. There are a few areas that I will tweak with some aftermarket bits, but overall a well done kit, especially when you consider how long ago it was when the kit was issued. That brings me to my question. Does the ESCI kit represent a very, very early A? Particularly when it comes to the area that is directly behind the cockpit and including the rear portion of the canopy? I ask as when compared to the Revell kit, ESCI in this area is flat and there is no "step", while Revell (and other kits) has a "step": ESCI Revell If someone could clear this up for me that would be most helpful.
  16. Time to unveil my second car build since coming back to the hobby which was completed last August. It was actually the first car I bought, but the Mustang looked easier so I started with that one. When you open up the box and look at the kit, you can see it's date-stamped 1982 and unfortunately it is showing it's age a bit. The first thing to jump out was that whereas the modern sprues tend to have some sort of struture to them, on this one the part numbers just jumped apparently at random between sprues (ok, I know that's still the case on some of the newer Revell kits, but not to this extent) and the runners often had a habit of just sort of petering out; at first I thought some of them had broken in two before realising this was just how it was meant to be. I also feel that the model is maybe a bit too wide for the length, but that is a lot less noticeable now it's built and it could just be my imagination. So, starting at the beginning of the build, here's the engine bay. Not a great start to the build as the two halves of the engine block don't quite align properly - I did sand down and fill the underside which is visible, but probably not by enough. I chickened out of mixing the colour for the engine block, and instead used some Prussian Blue from a reconnaisance Spitfire covered in clearcoat. I like the finish (quite 50's mechanical there), but the colour isn't blue enough now I've looked into things deeper and it does bug me a little bit. Not nearly as much as the fact that I didn't put the Blue Flame decal in the right place - what was I thinking?! On this project, I also stripped chrome for the first time to allow better painting of the carbs and float chambers. IMG_6170 on Flickr Moving inside, and this is the part of the build I'm most happy with and really pleased with how it turned out in here. The Molotow pen definitely earned it's stripes in here The photo doesn't really show it, but the matt and silk reds complement each other quite nicely. IMG_6163 on Flickr Onto the outside, coming up are the four quarter views. IMG_6178 on Flickr Both front angles show the issues with the windscreen, but the one below probably shows it best. It's the last piece you fit on the car, and a real sting in the tail. Just when you think you've wrestled the car into shape, you're presented with a clear piece of plastic with only a vague resemblance to the shape of the chromed plastic it's meant to sit in. Clearfix didn't hold it, but it did leave fingerprints on the screen. Fortunately, I managed to get them removed, but still had to fit the glass in the frame. Even superglue struggled to hold it in place, and in the end I superglued all the way around the frame, pushed in the screen and hoped it would stay. It did, and having messed up the chrome in the process I went over the whole lot with the magic chrome pen and covered up the glue where it showed. But the windscreen isn't as clear as it could be - good job it's a convertible! IMG_6177 on Flickr When I first opened the box, the back of the body had all sorts of sink marks that shouldn't have been there - it almost looked as though it had been rear-ended at some stage. So I got the putty out and got it something like the right shape. There were also quite a few mould lines on the body, but fortunately they were mostly in easy to remove places. IMG_6175 on Flickr Almost round it, and the problem with this corner is entirely my own doing in that I managed to snap the rear bumper, but fortunately it's pretty close to being back in the right place. None of the bumpers on this have any positive placement, but they do have a place where they feel right when you fit them. Just got to be very careful you don't get glue everywhere trying to find that place. IMG_6173 on Flickr The front view is just because I like the 'face' of the original Corvette. I did consider painting on the headlight wiring, but decided to go with the kit decals and they don't look too bad. Almost got them lined up properly too... Just a shame that the headlights don't sit as snugly into their holes as I would like. IMG_6179 on Flickr Home straight now, and here it is with the roof up, just sitting loose and not glued on. If it was to be glued on, it would sit slightly further back, but as it's loose I needed to use the windscreen frame to hold it up. IMG_6181 on Flickr And finally a gratuitous sunny pic IMG_6365 on Flickr Hope this isn't too long, apologies if it is. I'm definitely glad that I didn't so this kit first on returning as I did need to put into practice quite a few of the lessons I learned with the Mustang. The kit does show it's age, but it's not terrible (windscreen excepted) and does build up into a nice-looking model. I don't know if it's the white colour, or the chrome, or just the shape, but it alwasy catches my eye when I look at it. It might have been hard work at times, but it gives a sense of achievement when you finish it. Worth a build if you like this version of the Corvette, just needs a bit more work than the newer kits.
  17. I am currently planning/collecting models/parts for building 3 Revell 747s. The first is a 747-400 in Thai Air livery, second a 747-600 conversion in Gulf Air Livery and thirdly a 747-8i in an as yet undecided scheme. Here's my first question, should I fill the panel lines as they are quite obviously too deep?
  18. Hi Folks, its been a long time since I've posted any builds. That's all down to the fact that we have recently moved house, most sensible people at our age downsize but we broke with convention and went big, very big! But's that's another story. Anyway after setting up my new man cave and every thing else to do with a new house it was time to get back into modelling, I thought I would start simple with a Spitfire and a Mustang. First the Spitfire, I had picked this one up for a tenner from Hobbycraft, and was really disappointed. Raised panel lines and only 34 peices (well what did I expect at that price). Lots of flash, but to be fair not a bad fit when that was taken care of but the cockpit canopy was a terrible fit. It was at this stage I thought I would experiment, I've always fancied having a go at Invasion Stripes so this was going to become more of a paint mule. So here it is completed, apologies to the purists amongst you, I'm fairly certain that no Mk2's made it to D-Day although if you Google Mk2 Spitfire with Invasion Stripes you do see a Spitfire with these code letters having Invasion Stripes slapped on, I know there's a lot of things wrong with it but as usual welcome comments and critisisms. As I said a totally fictitious aircraft, this is another one that will be donated to an elderly aunt who was associated with the Spitfire factory in Birmingham during the war. Fortunately she likes Spitfires in any colour or size. Thanks for looking.
  19. Revell's 1970 Plymouth Hemi Cuda brings me bang up to date as I've just finished it over the weekend. Not perfect, but I think I am getting better. Incidentally, although it might look as though I have used zero imagination (OK, I did use zero imagination!), I did the car lime green because that's the colour I think suits it best, and built the stock rather than custom model for personal preference. Overall, this is a very nice kit which goes together very well with the exception of the rear valance (more on that later). There are mould lines on the body, but apart from the ones on the A-pillars they are positioned so as to be easy to sand off. The main downside is actually on the instructions where there are a few places which call for the body colour when they should actually be coloured differently. In fact, I inadvertedly got to try out my paint stripping skills on the dashboard which is listed as body colour, but when I did some research turned out to be the interior colour. Lesson learned - do your research before painting, not after So, first up the engine bay. It all went together much better than I was expecting it to with no real issues, even when it came to fitting the body around it. Sadly (sadly?! nothing sad about it), most of it is hidden by the enormous shaker scoop which I ended up rather obviously brush painting, although the camera has enhanced the brush strokes a lot. IMG_6380 Unfortunately, the shape of the car meant it was difficult to get a decent pic of the interior. All down to Plymouth on that score, not Revell for the model nor Canon for the camera. These are the best I could manage IMG_6381 IMG_6383 Onto the exterior, and I might as well get the worst bit out of the way first. The rear valance just doesn't seem quite right. It has to be added on after the body has been mated to the chassis, but the hollows to accommodate the rear cart springs are slightly too wide apart. I hollowed them out further to get it to fit a little bit better, but didn't dare go any further in case I went through the plastic. So it doesn't sit quite right (only by about 0.5mm, but it's enough) and that has meant that the exhausts don't quite go in right either. At least being below the bumper, it's only noticeable if you go looking for it. IMG_6384 The front went together much better. The only real issue was that the bonnet appears to have warped slightly which shows up from some angles, and not too much from others. I thought I had it straightened out before fitting to the car, but it appeared to refind it's warp overnight. At least it's not too major. IMG_6385 Going to be lazy now, and just put up a load of pics from around the car. Incidentally, the bit on the first photo which looks like a run isn't, it's just a badly located reflection of the light tent. Window trim is done using the magic Molotow pen - I haven't done any foiling at all and with the way the pen performs I doubt I will IMG_6387 IMG_6388 IMG_6389 IMG_6392 IMG_6393 IMG_6394 And finally, I gave it a chance to chill in the sunshine in the conservatory. Thanks for looking - time for me to move onto something Japanese I think IMG_6377
  20. These are a few recent builds of 1/72 scale Typhoons. All carrying Centenary celebration schemes. 29(R) Squadron Centenary Typhoon FRG.4 ZK353. ZK353 was marked with Typhoon Display Team corporate logos as well as commemorating 100 years of 29(R) Squadron. The aircraft was flown throughout the 2015 display season 6 Squadron Centenary Typhoon FGR.4 ZK342. In 2015 ZK342 recieved a scheme to commemorate the centenary anniversary of 6 Squadron. The tail and spine were covered in a desert camo scheme representative of that worn by the unit when operating Hurricanes during WWll Xl(F) Squadron Centenary Typhoon FGR.4 ZJ925 In 2015 ZJ925 was painted in a scheme to commemorate the Centenary of XI(F) Squadron. The tail and spine was black with gold squadron Crest and carried the code DXI. The aircraft was used on normal operations and also deployed on exercise to Kenya and Turkey
  21. Hi all, So after my last Revell flying boat adventure, going to take the plunge with this one which I think is a rebox of a Heller kit. Thanks for looking and good luck with your builds. Cheers, Dermot
  22. I present my Revell Airbus A319 in the retro BEA ‘Red Square’ Livery to commemorate 100 years of British Airways. I love this livery, it really brings a sense of the past depicted on a modern Airliner. I have another retro scheme I am working on which is the B744 in the BOAC livery. The build was OOB with the Decals from Classic Airlines. This was originally going to be an Alligent Air A319 but I made a complete mess of it at the time, and what I was left with was something that was fit for the bin... I saw these decals a while ago and knew I had to do this lovely scheme. I tried to tidy up the kit as best I could, then repainted it. I was tempted to buy another A319 kit but seeing as it has ceased to be produced anymore and the prices for them on eBay are obscene, I opted to give it a new beginning. The paint used was Humbrol Gloss White for the upper fuselage. The lower fuselage and engine nacelles I initially went for Halfords Racking Grey then went over it with Revell 371 Aqua paint. The wings were done using Revell 371 and then the coroguard a lighter version of Revell 374. I have now managed to pick up some Holts grey that I will be using on my future Airbus builds. Blacks and metals were various Revell Aqua colours. The decals are lovely, and laser printed. They are very easy to work with and manipulate around the curves of the nose. They are translucent though, and I wish I had filled the windows in when I made the kit over a year ago... they really look great on the model. As always thank you for looking and any constructive feedback and comments are very welcome. Regards, Alistair I was too excited to share this with you that I forgot to add the antennas... Here is the progress I have so far with my BOAC 744...
  23. Hi again, This is my latest build. It's looking like my camera skills haven't improved one bit, I need to figure out a better location/setup to take photos of my models, sorry about that. Anyway, this is the build: Kit: Revell F-89D/J (No. 4568) Model: Northrop F-89D Scorpion (USAF) Scale: 1/48 Aftermarket: None Paints: Vallejo Model, Air & Metal Color Weathering: Oil paints, Flory Models Wash The kit was by no means perfect (it's from the early 90's) - nor was my build of the kit ( I can point out dozens of mistakes...) - but all in all I'm still very happy with the overall look. I did not stress about it too much but was just enjoying the build and was in awe how cool a plane the Scorpion really is So I hope you enjoy. All comments & constructive criticism are welcomed! One thing that I'm trying to figure out the best way to weather raised panel line kits, washes don't really work that well. Maybe some airbrush magic? Would love to hear your thoughts on that. And here's a shot with Monogram F-102 Delta Dagger I did earlier this year. Big planes, both of them!
  24. So far i've built a 144th scale and 2 of the 72nd scale This happens to be my 4th overall build ever...48th Scale...and am still learning... I went for the #32 French Rafale M instructions from the box Since I have to use locally sourced resources...like student/fabric acrylic colours instead of pro grade airbrush paints, I had to experiment a looooooot right from making DIY thinner to using inks for transparent parts to using clear epoxy glue as glass on GBU sensor tips I also had to learn how to use soft pastels as weathering powder...that was fun It's mostly OTB, but I call the build custom ...because the reffernce of #32 rafale m was clean and I wanted to throw in as many learning opportunities in this build as I could... that includes some differently coloured panels (which also serve as excuse to cover up scratches i accidentally caused ) The cockpit has mostly a standard build because I wanted a closed canopy but added some scratch-built details on the Seat like belts and pipes, mirrors on canopy etc (see build log image) Added some wires and stuff to landing gear detail Obviously there are mistakes and errors ..tons of them...some mine...some resource limitations...and some revell's doing (Light on the right is supposed to be green but the instructions said blue...and i was sleepy )... Colours are all mixed from standard Six pack of student acrylic colours so i'll take creative freedom on colour accuracy but tried my best Find my Full Album (45 images) on Flickr Here --->
  25. Boeing 727-31C Trans World Airlines, early 1960s Revell 1/144 727 kit with all surface detail sanded off and rescribed Finish is Halfords Appliance White, AK Extreme Metal Polished Aluminium and various Xtracrylic greys Decals from Classic-Airlines.com This is the scheme in the early Airfix 727 kit and I think it's one of the most attractive 727 schemes. Not entirely happy with the nose and nose gear areas on this one. I shortened the kit nose leg and fitted some smaller nosewheels which improved things.
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