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Found 1,510 results

  1. Another one for the shiny corner: The lovely Revell 1/72 Jug. Finished in Alclad and Mr Hobby as usual with decals from a Skys Models sheet. A quickish build with no issues, maybe 3-4 hours total at a gentle pace. The pilot came from the excellent Revell RAF pilots set. Got a really mean angle on the stand and looky, for all those folks who keep making the same comments about drones, a pilot! And not because of your complaining either, next batch of paid for builds all requested pilots so its market forces Most pleased with how "box art" this looks- each to his own but, boy, do overweathered planes squatting forlornly on their wheels look boring to me, what is the point of making a fast, sleek (ish) airplane and turning it into a three wheeled ground vehicle? I suppose it's mostly to do with the fact I'm up in something two or three times a week these days and parked planes excite me as much as parked tricycles WIP: And onto the beauty shots... 2019 is shaping up nicely with 8 builds done. Well back to the bench, its getting an equally shiny P-51D playmate that isn't going to build itself. Cheery byes Anil
  2. I am currently planning/collecting models/parts for building 3 Revell 747s. The first is a 747-400 in Thai Air livery, second a 747-600 conversion in Gulf Air Livery and thirdly a 747-8i in an as yet undecided scheme. Here's my first question, should I fill the panel lines as they are quite obviously too deep?
  3. After the German IDS boxing, Revell is to release in 2015 a 1/48th MRCA Tornado GR.Mk.4 kit - ref.04924 Source: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234973128-revell-172-shackelton-aew-2/ V.P.
  4. C-45F Expeditor 1:48 Revell The Twin Beech, or to give the aircraft its proper title The Beechcraft Model 18, is a six to eleven seater twin engines low wing, tail wheeled light aircraft made by the Beech Aircraft Corporation is the USA. Between 1937 and 1969 (an impressive production run) over 9000 aircraft were built. During WWII many aircraft were pressed into service and may more were built for the allied war effort serving as transport aircraft, light bombers, trainers, and for photo-reconnaissance. The Kit This is a re-boxing by Revell of the recently released ICM kit. The packaging would indicate the plastic has come direct from ICM. There are two main sprues of parts, with two small spures, the upper and lower wings; and one clear sprue. Construction starts with adding the glazing to the main fuselage halves. There is a small strip for the 3 main cabin windows, with individual parts for all other windows in each side, Where the kit differs from others is that the main cockpit glazing is supplied as one part for each fuselage half, which wraps around from the side; but does not reach all the way to the middle. There is then a centre section which is added towards the end of the build. The US military could designate the aircraft the C-45, with the C-45F being a standard 7 seven seat aircraft which would feature a longer nose than earlier variants. This aircraft would be called the Expeditor II by the British and Expeditor III by the Canadians. Both British and Canadian Aircraft were supplied under lease-lend. Military Aircraft would end up serving long past WWII which was a testament to the design of the aircraft. Once the glazing is in then the internal structure of the cockpit and cabin can be added. There is a rear bulkhead to the cabin to add along with the bulkhead separating the cabin from the cockpit. In the cockpit itself the instrument panel is built up, the lower part of this featuring the rudder pedals. A single seat is made up which attached to the right fuselage half at the very back of the cabin. Once this seat is installed the main fuselage can be closed up. Construction now moves on to the main undercarriage. The mounting for which come of the rear of the engine firewall. These are a complicated multi part affair and need careful studying of the instructions to make sure all of the parts are in the right places. Once these are complete for both sides they can be installed into the lower wing. It should be noted here that the upper and lower wings are each one part, which when complete add straight to the underside of the main fuselage. Once the engine firewalls complete with landing gear parts are mounted to the lower wing the engine faces are added to the front of the firewall and then exhaust parts are made up and added to the indie of the engine area. The bulkheads are added next to the rear of the landing gear wells. Once the one part ailerons are added to the lower wing the upper wing can be added. The top of the upper wing forms the floor of the main cabin and cockpit. As such two cockpit seats and 4 main cabin seats must now be built and installed onto the floor section. The pilots control columns are also added at this stage. The completed wing/cabin floor assembly can then be joined to the main fuselage. The next construction stage is to make up and install the tailplane assembly. To wrap up construction the tail wheel needs to be built up and installed along with the doors to the compartment. The main wheels are added to the gear legs already installed and the main gear door put in place. The propellers are then installed. If the spinners are to be used then a small amount needs to be trimmed off the hubs. Lastly the rear cabin door is added and the centre section for the main wind screen (though it might be easier to add this to the fuselage before the wing is added). Decals The decal sheet for this kit seems to be again made in Portugal like some other new releases. However unlike other kits recently reviewed the decals here seem of good quality. The look colour dense and are nice and glossy. More importantly for anyone doing the USAF version a main stream model manufacturer seems to have finally figured out that the USAF titles are in Insignia Blue NOT Black. The two decal options provided are; UC-45F, 2nd Electronics Sqn USAF, Olmsted Field, PA, 1948. Expediter C.II no.728 Naval Air Sqn, Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm, Hal Far, Malta, 1949. Conclusion This is a great new tool kit with a couple of good decal options. Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  5. Hi All, I must be a sucker for punishment. Yet another model that I have decided to finish along with all the others. This one has for no reason that I can work out, been sitting on the back-shelf for an enormously long time. I had built the engine, transmission & exhaust and had sprayed all the body parts in their final colour, then I put it away and forgot about it. This is the Revell 'Premium' range of 1/24th kits. There weren't many models in this series, This, a BMW 850 a Mercedes 560 C, coupe and cabriolet. I has many more parts than your usual Revell kit, and has a reputation for being difficult to build, almost to the point of being un-buildable! That currently, has not been my experience. The engine and transmission (No piccies unfortunately. I had assembled the engine and transmission into the floor-pan before I realised I had no pictures) went together well, as did the exhaust system. A bit over-the-top in the parts count department, but engineered well enough. I decided that mine would be black, so I sprayed it with Halfords' grey primer followed by a Halfords' Black (Not sure which one - there is more than one shade!) So, this is where we are now: The somewhat crumpled box. Looks impressive. The body: There are some minor imperfections that will polish out. I use Halfords' polishing compound. It's a old can, and appears to be quite different from the newer Halfords polishing compound. Sorry about the blurry rear-end, but I was using shutter priority on the camera in order to use flash, and it must have selected a very wide aperture, hence the shallow depth of field. The wheels: Now, this is one area where Revell could improve upon. The tyres are that Vinyl stuff. It has a few failings: It appears to be 'oily' to the touch It doesn't look very much like rubber (too shiny) It can melt polystyrene, so you have to ensure the wheel is painted where the tyre touches it. It seems to age badly and become brittle. All but one of the tyres has split right across the tyre. I resolved it by using CA glue in the gap to hold the tyre together. I then filled the remains of the gap with High-tack PVA glue. That has the advantage that it dries clear, so appears to part of the tyre, and it also dries quite flexible, similar to the original vinyl (event when brittle). It is quite difficult to see the splits now, so the repair appears to have worked. This is where the new stuff starts: The rear suspension went in first. There are over twenty parts to make up the rear suspension, even more when you add the brakes and springs! Seems a bit like overkill. Still for all that, it assembled well and it all fitted. I highlighted all the pipe-work by dry-brushing aluminium on to the raised pipes. It needed a bit of clean-up later but nothing serious. The exhaust system is also another example of a complicated break-down of parts. There are nine parts here. Fortunately it all went together well, like this: It all fitted well. No major gaps, just a smear of filler before the back-box on one of he pipes. The headers event connected to the manifolds. I was impressed. Another view of the rear suspension with the axles attached: Again, quite complex, but it all fitted well. This is one of the from suspension parts. Again the fit was well engineered, and it fitted well. This biggest difficulty was ensuring no glue got onto the revolving axle part. That's the bit in the bottom right corner. So, this is where we are at present: All suspension parts added, including anti-roll bars etc. The exhaust looked a bit too shiny, so I used a mix of Humbrol matt black and gloss brown, highly diluted in white spirit to "grubby" it up a bit. The white spirit doesn't attack the acrylic already there. It has stalled here due to a major cock-up on my part. The right suspension part at the front didn't want to stay in place. I thought perhaps that the strut needed to be pressed harder into the wish-bone, so I pushed a bit harder. Not a good idea. I managed to snap off the wish-bone and nearly lost it to the laminate monster (The carpet monster's close cousin). I was not impressed (understatement of the decade). After locating the broken part, I used epoxy glue to fix it back in place. The end result is a bit more flexible than I would like, but it doesn't appear to be going anywhere. The problem still remains that the strut keeps falling out. No better (or worse) than before. I think that the only solution will be to glue the strut in place and lose the ability to have functional steering. Having said that, apart from posing it off centre, I never do anything else with it, so it's not a huge loss. I'll just set it slightly off centre anyway. More soon, I hope. Thanks for looking, Alan.
  6. Kamov Ka-58 Stealth Helicopter (03889) 1:72 Revell There isn't much one can write by way of introduction to a fictional subject, save for the fact that this kit is supposed to represent what a modern, Russian stealth helicopter might look like. The model follows the general design ethos of the Kamov design bureau, with a contra-rotating rotor and winglets to hold an array of armament options. For some, the idea of a model of a fictional subject will hold little appeal. For others, the application of coolodynamics will prove irresistible. I certainly remember a much younger version of myself drooling over the Italeri F-19 Stealth Fighter and the MiG-37 Ferret. As you may have guessed, this particular tooling was originally designed and manufactured by Russian outfit Zveda, a great many of whose kits have found their way into Revell boxes over the years. The kit it typical of early Zvezda. It has engraved surface structures but is somewhat lacking in fine detail and has a somewhat rough finish. Assembly begins with the tandem cockpit. The seats are not brilliant compared with modern kits, but they could easily be swapped out for a pair of K-36 if you can make them fit. Remaining details include dual control columns and an instrument panel. Decals are provided for the instrument panel and side consoles. Once complete, the crew compartment can be sealed up inside the fuselage pod, which is split horizontally like most modern 'stealth' shapes. The twin cannon pod must also be added as this point (at least if you want to be able to articulate it later) because it is held in place by an internal plug. The model can be finished in wheels up or wheels down configuration, with some different parts used depending on the option chosen. The landing gear bays contain basic structural details, but curiously the designers have made no attempt to incorporate stealth features to these parts, such as saw-toothed edges. The two large bays under the central part of the fuselage are for internal weapon stowage. Eight anti-tank missiles are provided on two extendable pylons, while rockets and air-to-air missiles are provided for the hardpoints under the winglets. The canopy can be finished in open or closed configuration, but the lack of detail in the cockpit would put me off the former. The main rotor is reasonably detailed for the scale and the rotor blades themselves have a fairly convincing stealthy shape. Two different options are provides for on the decal sheet. The first is an all-over black scheme that seems to represent a demonstrator or prototype aircraft as depicted on the box artwork. The second is a two-tone grey disruptive pattern with blue undersides. The decal sheet is nicely printed and, surprisingly, a decent amount of stencils are included. Conclusion Although starting to show its age, this is a pretty decent model. The design is not as outlandish as some of the fictional stealth models of the eighties, which means it won't look out of place in a line up of real choppers. While it lacks the detail of the latest kits from Revell (and Zvezda), if the subject appeals to you then I don't think you'll be disappointed. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  7. With the 40th anniversary of Star Wars this year, i'm going to try and build some kits from that series as a kind of a tribute GB. And to mark feeling very old! To ease myself into it, I've pulled this from the stash which I picked up last year at Telford for the princely sum of a penny shy of £2.. Just a small bit of wear and tear on the box! (hence the price) But everything there.... Behold the mighty sprue map...almost 40 parts! None of your fancy-shmancy 900+ parts Master Series nonsense here.... The upper hull/turret bustle had received a fair whack in the box and was cracked from left side to right so that needed fixing...plastic tabs (hidden) to support and lashings of glue.. It's an Easy kit (Snap-Fit to us older folks) but I'm going to glue it together. So out came a persuading tool to snip the lugs for a better fit. And we have a hull! While not as accurate as the AMT kit and smaller in scale (about 1/50 I think), I'm going to try and improve this by repainting in the Phantom Menace scheme and adding some basic detail to it. Yes, I know there are some minor shape/detail differences between these versions but hoping it will still look the part (and not upset the fans ) I'll miss those 'eyeliner' gun stains from the front glacis! Thanks for looking. Cheers, Dermot
  8. After the Fw.190F-8 - ref. 04869 ( http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234969323-132-focke-wulf-fw190f-8-by-revell-released/) Revell is to release in July 2017 a 1/32nd Focke-Wulf Fw.190A-8/R-11 Nachtjäger - ref. 03926 Sources: http://www.kitreviewsonline.de/revell-neuheiten-fuer-das-jahr-2017/ http://www.revell-news.de/display.php?M=166356&C=3f057b9cf49fc7b39cd8722d3dac6145&S=587&L=36&N=239 V.P.
  9. RoG's McLaren 570S all done, finished in Tamiya TS21 Gold, with Semi Gloss Black and Alclad Dark Aluminium details. Interior is my own 'cream' and 'light black' acrylic mixes. The CF decals are from Ka Models of Korea (highly recommended). Not a great kit and fought me all the way to the very end - the final assembly is a proper PitA. I knew to attach the dash onto the lip BEFORE adding the interior because I'd read and seen so many build reviews. Even so, the final fit is truly dreadful... All that said, like the Ferrari 458, the finished car is truly a thing of beauty to my eye. Please feel free to make any comments or ask any questions (yes I know the exhausts aren't on yet). Best from NZ. Ian.
  10. Apollo 11 Astronaut on the Moon (03702) 1:8 Revell On the 20th July 1969, a man by the name of Neil Armstrong stepped off the ladder of his flimsy spacecraft and onto the Moon's dusty surface, uttering the words that would become famous "That's one small step for [a] man, one giant leap for mankind". His name and this quote, plus the likeness of the Saturn V rocket that got them there, and the Apollo 11 spacecraft that consisted of the Command Module (CM), Service Module (SM) and Lunar Module (LM or LEM if you add "excursion" into the mix) also became amongst the most recognised images of their time. Leaving many footprints in the dusty regolith of the Sea of Tranquility where they landed, they soon clambered back onboard and blasted off for home, paving the way for another six missions, only one of which didn't quite make it but became almost equally famous because of their accident and subsequent return to earth that was fraught with danger. Maybe they should have skipped the name Apollo 13? The Kit Following the 50th year since we walked on the Moon theme, we have more from Revell on the subject, which again is a new edition of a previously released kit from the same era as the Apollo 11 CM & SM that we reviewed recently here. The kit arrives in an end-opening box, with four sprues in white styrene inside, some of which have been cut to fit the new box. There is also a yellow tinted clear part for the visor, a small sheet of decals and the instruction booklet, which is printed in Revell's new colour style. As it's a special edition, there is also a pack of four thumb-pots of Revell paint, a small tube of Contacta semi-liquid glue, and a paintbrush, which as always with these sets has had its hair parted by the bag. The kit is clearly a product of its day, but has good detail throughout and a simple method of construction. The completed model stands at 258mm tall, a little over 2m in scale, out of which you must take the bulk of the suit, helmet and base to account for the difference between Neil's 1.8m height and that of the model. I'd say that scales out pretty well. The astronaut's face is moulded into the helmet area, with the yellow tinted visor added after paint, but here there is a slight deviation that stands out to the average Joe. The bottom edge of the visor is a little flattened when compared with those famous photos of Neil after touch down, so if it bothers you, you'll need a little putty to make that more to your liking. The suit is a pretty detailed rendition of the one that Neil wore, with some slight differences from the real thing such as the central panel on his chest and the lack of umbilical ports on the left of the chest plate. There are also some straps hanging around that are missing for obvious reasons, and the umbilicals that attach to the backpack should have insulating sleeves on them that give them a crinkled, faceted look. All of this can be fixed if you're minded, or you can just enjoy the model for what it is and build it to the best of your ability. Construction begins with the head and torso, which are split vertically front to back, with the astronaut's head moulded into the helmet, as mentioned. It's a generic face that's a very nice sculpt, but clearly not Neil Armstrong, and bears more of a resemblance to a face from a Captain Scarlet puppet. Whether that was for copyright reasons, I guess we'll never know. The legs and arms are next, with the former split the same way, and the latter split to give maximum detail to the gauntlets. The backpack is similarly split front and back, attaching to the torso with a central pin and two realistic-looking strap-ends, with a good amount of surface detail. On the front is another much smaller pack that resembles a claymore mine in shape, but has more to do with environment regulation. The fixed video camera glues into a slot on the front of the pack, and at this stage you are also instructed to install the visor into the helmet. If you've been brave and adjusted the shape of the lower edge, you'll need to reduce the glazed part to match. These things are gold-plated to protect the wearer from excessive sunlight exposure, as there is no atmosphere to speak of on the moon, so the light is undiminished by atmospheric backscatter. This has been mimicked by the clear yellow tint, but you could experiment with gold leaf of gold chrome paint if you feel the need. To complete the figure, the two umbilicals (umbilicii?) are routed from the backpack to the chest and chest pack, with the aforementioned caveat of them requiring insulating sleeves. The base consists of a chunk of the moon's surface with a depression for the lander's leg, and another flat-spot for the figure's left foot, then a raised flat area with that famous phrase engraved on it for posterity. You get a portion of the lander's leg, which has a section of the ladder added to the front, and the big dished foot at the bottom. This portion of the lander was covered in a golden mylar layer for insulation too, so treat yourself to some Cadbury's Bournville or other confection with a golden inner wrapper, and have a go at making it look suitably wrinkly if you feel up to the challenge. The completed figure is attached with one foot on the base, the other in the dished top of the landing pad, with two flat tabs ensuring a good join. Markings The majority of Neil's suit is white, with grey used mainly on his gloves and overshoes that protect his boots from damage, which incidentally debunks another of the deniers' arguments about the tread pattern on their boots being different. I digress. The moon is very dusty, so after even a few steps the suits got covered in an incredibly fine grey dust that was hard to shift. Check your references, and enjoy replicating some of it. There was a #2 Revell paintbrush included in the pack, but as the bristles were bent over, I decided not to photograph it. Ok, I forgot! The decal sheet is small and consists of a couple of American flags, two NASA meatball logos for the backpack and his chest, and a stencil for the water reservoir at the bottom of the backpack. There's no name tag for the suit, but that's hidden away under the chest pack, so hardly an issue. Decals are printed for Revell by Zanetti, in good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This is a fun model that will give a lot of pleasure to a lot of folks if they approach it with the right attitude. If you treat it as a blast from the past, or a desktop model you'll have fun building it, but if you want something accurate, there are some alterations you can make and still have fun. Considering the age of the moulds there are some really nice cloth effects, with creases, seams and so forth giving a realistic landscape for you to paint over and weather. A fitting tribute to the late, great Mr Armstrong, may he rest in peace. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  11. Hot off the bench and finished just yesterday! This is a commission build for a friend, OOB except for the aftermarket seat belts from Eduard. Revell's 1/32 P-51D kit, whilst affordable, was not quite what I expect of a modern, new-tool kit in this day and age. Some notable issues around fit include: Just about EVERYWHERE! All major joins required filling and sanding, reminiscent (to me) of the very old Hobbycraft kits I'd built in the past. Details were soft and sprue gates were massive! Honestly, I switched to my more heavy duty cutters rather than risk my good nippers to get parts off before cleaning up the flash and burr lines. In short, I would not look to build another of this kit. I am so looking forward to going back to 1/72 after this! But... she's finished nonetheless, and I'm hoping her new owner will be satisfied with the results. Once again, thanks for looking
  12. Well after nearly as much indecision and prevaricating as the Brexit debate (no I'm NOT getting involved!) I have finally decided to join in with a subject which is very much in the spotlight at the moment, albeit for the worst possible reason (it's retirement) I have decided to go with a Panavia Tornado using the recent 1/48 Revell IDS kit, so here are the usual pics of the box and it's contents starting with the box top of Revell's God awful end opening effort; Nice box art, now for the actual plastic showing that all the parts are neatly wrapped in their original packaging; Revell's decal sheet is very well printed and looks to be of excellent quality but I really wish they would stop with the special schemes and give us some good old fashioned politically incorrect front line aircraft in their proper warpaint. When I opened the box I got a nice surprise in the form of a separate plastic bag put into the box (no doubt by it's original owner as I bought it second hand) which contained these resin goodies which should help with the build; All very nice I hear you say but how does this tie in with the criteria of this GB? Well maybe these next pictures will help alleviate your fears..... Nice decals you say, I hope so as some of them are nearly as old as me but hopefully work better, but your'e still not completely convinced, well how about these whizz bangs to hang under the Tonka? Getting better? And yes they are a set of wing seals by one of our very clever members, but if you still haven't pieced everything together yet then here she comes!!!!! Oh Yes!! Isn't she a thing of beauty! A Marineflieger IDS of MFG 1 in the original delivery scheme, stick a couple of Kormorans under the belly of the beast and you have the best Baltic Bolshevik botherer ever! Well that's my opinion any way. And just in case my MFG 1 decals go terribly wrong then I have some slightly more modern ones for MFG 2 in the 3 colour scheme that they wore and carried HARM missiles for killing radars making them SEAD aircraft, as is this Italian ECR which I also have decals for; Well hopefully she meets with the approval of our glorious leader @trickyrich and I shall make a start later this week. Thanks for looking in and all comments and criticisms are gratefully received. Craig.
  13. I have had this kit for sometime and then I spotted 3D lightboats that were designed after the Titanic .Britannic and Titanic were closer in appearance than their sister ship Olympic which had the long career into the 1930,s.All I had to do is add an extra deck on the quarter deck,reposition the life boats and add a few small extra accommodation blocks on the deck.Gone mad with extra parts.Always start going to build for the box,never turns out like that. List so far Kit Revell RMS Titanic 1/700 Wooden deck for Titanic by Hunter Master Models 1/700 RMS Titanic (Olympic, Britannic) Masts set,Must get. P.E. set for the Academy Model kit 1/700 RMS Titanic,I can't use the bridge part,however the davits and windows and other part will get used. Green strips for the hull. 3D lifeboats which start this build,should have seen the size of the box,they came in. and you get the Red Cross signs between the funnels.
  14. Revell is to release 1/144th new tool Airbus kits - ref. 03942 - Airbus A320 neo Lufthansa New Livery - ref. 04952 - Airbus A321 neo Sprues on display at Shizuoka 2019 Sources: https://www.facebook.com/tetramodel/photos/a.2474802349220072/2475722535794720/?type=3&theater https://www.facebook.com/hobbyland.osaka/photos/a.2253464838073537/2253472751406079/?type=3&theater V.P.
  15. PBY-5A Catalina 1:72 Revell The Consolidated Catalina was one of the most widely used amphibious aircraft of World War II. First flown in 1935, the Catalina proved to be remarkably long-lived. It was so well suited to its role that it not only served throughout the War, but remained in service with its primary user, the US Navy, until 1957 and with the Brazilian Air Force until 1979. There are many surviving Catalinas around the world, including a significant number of airworthy examples. Powered by two Pratt and Whitney Twin Wasp engines, the Catalina had a range of over 2,500 miles. Eagle eyed readers will no doubt have already spotted that this is not (thankfully) ye olde Revell kit from the late 1960s. Instead, it's the more modern Academy kit, originally released in 1993 and now repackaged in one of Revell's familiar large-but-flimsy boxvelopes. The kit features clean, crisp mouldings, fully engraved surface details and a respectable level of detail. All together there are around 140 parts spread across six frames of grey plastic and a single frame of clear plastic. Two decal options are included. Assembly begins with a series of sub-assemblies that fit inside the fuselage halves. The main landing gear bays are first and these can be built in wheels up or wheels down configuration. Wheels down will require the main landing gear legs to be assembled from four parts, and care will be required in order to ensure that the parts all align correctly. The wheel wells themselves fit into the inside of the fuselage, so make sure they are firmly glued in places just in case they pop out halfway through the build and rattle around inside the fuselage. There waist and nose gunner stations are present but fairly basic, as is the cockpit. Decals are provided for the instrument panel and sear harnesses. Aftermarket parts will definitely be required if you want to build the model to a modern standard of detail. Once the fuselage halves have been joined (remembering to add 40g of nose weight, which seems a lot) the slab-like wing is next. The wing is moulded in separate sections for the port, starboard and centre parts. The centre section holds the engine pods, to which the basic-but-good-enough engines and cowlings can be added. The outer wing sections hold the retractable floats, and as with the landing gear, these can be finished in retracted or deployed positions. The ailerons and elevators are moulded in place, as is the rudder. A number of details, such as exhausts and DF loop, are provided in different forms for both the early and late variants depicted on the decal sheet. Four bombs are provided to hang under the wings, but these could be swapped for aftermarket depth charges if so desired. The clear parts are nicely moulded. Two different options are provides for on the decal sheet. The first is for a PBY-5A Catalina of the US Naval Aviation Reserve, NAS Glenview, Illinois, 1947. The second is a wartime-ara Catalina PBY-5A of Patrol Squadron 61, US Navy, Umnak Island, Alaska, 1943. The decals are fairly basic but appear to be high quality. Conclusion Academy's Catalina is a solid kit, and although it is starting to show its age, it is still capable of being built into a faithful and convincing replica. It's not as detailed as many of the modern kits we are used to today, but it has recessed panel lines and just about enough detail to pass muster where it counts. Overall this should be a straightforward kit to build. Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  16. U Boat Type VII C/41 Platinum Edition 1:72 Revell The Type VII submarine was based on earlier German designs. This type would go onto become the most used German submarines of WWII with over 700 being built. As with anything there would be many modifications along the way. The type started as the V11A with an initial 10 being built. The type VIIC would become the main boat of the German Navy with 568 being built between 1940 and 1945. With a range of 8500 nautical miles. The boats had 4 forward, and one stern tube in general (there were a few exceptions) with 14 torpedoes being carried. For surface running and battery charging a pair of supercharged 6 cylinder 4 stroke diesel engines were used which gave a top speed of 17.7 knots. A maximum submerged speed of 7.6 knots was possible with a new fully charged battery. The submarines generally carried a crew of 44 to 52 men in what can best be described as "cramped" conditions. For anyone familiar with the original "Das Boot" mini series U-96 was a Type VIIC. The Kit This boxing is a re-release of Revell's new tooling from 2003 which was released again in 2006. This new boxing is a Platinum edition, It contains all of the original plastic, two large sheets of photo etch, self adhesive wooden decks; and metal parts for the Periscopes (extended & retracted), snorkel mast, radar mast, nav lights, ensign staff, boom support, & gun barrels. such is the large number of these additional parts that a complete separate instruction book is provided for them. Construction begins with the torpedo tube, the modeller must decide whether to have them open or shut and then fit the respective parts into the hull sections. Once this is don't two internal bulkheads for strength are added in and the left/right hull sections can be joined. The stand can then be made up and the hull placed on it. Construction now moves to the stern and the details for the propeller shafts, propellers and supporting structure are added. Once these are on the stern planes and twin rudders can be added. Switching back to the bow, the bow planes are added along with the anchor and protective guides for the bow planes. Next the snorkel is made up, This part is moveable so care must be taken to follow the instructions if you want it to work. The snorkel is fitted into the appropriate deck section, and all the main deck sections can be added to the hull. Work now switches to the conning tower of the sub. The search and attack periscopes are made up installed into the decking along with the tower hatch, The upper tower deck and the lower one are then added into the tower superstructure. Radio masts and other item are then added in also. The deck extension for the anti aircraft gun is then added as well. The single 3.7cm flack gun can then be built up and added. Two additional twin barrelled 20mm Zwilling Anti aircraft guns are then made up and fitted to the tower decking as well. Once these are on various deck fittings, ladders and the railings are added. Finally the ensign staff can be added. The coning tower can then be added to the main hull. Thread is provided for the one forward and to aft wires from the conning tower along with the blocks for securing it. The hull is then finished of with a variety of smaller fittings. Platinum Edition As mentioned this is Revell's Platinum Edition which features two large sheets of photo etch, self adhesive wooden decks; and metal parts for the Periscopes (extended & retracted), snorkel mast, radar mast, nav lights, ensign staff, boom support, & gun barrels. such is the large number of these additional parts that a complete separate instruction book is provided for them and this must be read in conjunction with the main booklet. As expected there are many parts here and I suspect not for the beginner. The many fittings which will replace moulded on detail will look good on the model. The guns also benefit from many detail parts and metal barrels. All the railing will look much better in etch rather than plastic. Markings There are decals for U 997, U 995, U 295, U 324, U 307, U 1023, U 1002, U 1105 included on the sheet with diagrams to show the different paint schemes on individual boats as well as small histories of them. Conclusion It's good to see this kit re-issued as it makes up into an impressive model. The addition of the platinum parts should make a big difference over the kit plastic. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  17. "Wittgenstein here, clear off!" Second nightfighter in my collection, and probably the last one I make in 1:72, installing those antennas was a nightmare. Some pieces also didn´t fit, others were too long, the instructions tell you to install the exhausts without mentioning you won´t be able to fit the flame dampers if you do so, the rudder pedals supporters won't let you fit the nose unless you trim them, etc... Pay close attention, if you build this kit, when making the antenna array: the support struts are of different lengths, something Revell misses to point out. Brushpainted with Revell acrylics.
  18. Apollo 11 Spacecraft with Interior (03703) 1:32 Revell There can't be many people that don't know about the Moon landings in the late 60s and early 70s, and the Saturn V rocket and its cargo the Apollo spacecraft are instantly recognised by most with even a shallow grasp of history. It was an incredible feat of engineering, providing you don't believe that millions of people have all kept quiet about a conspiracy to fake it all for 50 years, achieved with such a tiny amount of computing power that you probably carry around many times more in your hip pocket these days. Driven in part by Werner Von Braun, who had dreamt about flying to the moon since his childhood, NASA was given the go ahead by JFK in a rousing speech "to go to the moon and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard". Incredibly, they were ready to fly men around the moon seven years after the start of the programme in 1968, after a false start due to the loss of the crew of Apollo 1 on the Launchpad in a horrific fire during training. Apollo 7 to 10 were manned, and pushed the envelope incrementally each time, until Apollo 11, which was the first to attempt a moon landing, with Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin scheduled to make the descent, and the lesser known Michael Collins waiting for their return in the Command Module (CM), fully aware that he may have to make the return on his own if things went wrong. They didn't, and on 20th July 1969 they touched down on the moon with many millions watching on TV, when Neil uttered those immortal words "That's one small step for [a] man, one giant leap for mankind". When they lifted off from the moon after a walk on the surface and a brief rest period, they had to rendezvous with the CM, dock and transfer back to the cramped module, discard the Lunar Lander, and then make the journey back to Earth. Upon reaching home, the cylindrical Service Module (SM) section was also discarded, leaving the Command Module the only part to return back to earth, safely splashing down in the Pacific Ocean after re-entry and a thorough roasting. Following this mission were six more successful moon landings in various areas, until funding and public interest dried up, leaving Apollo 17 the last time man went to the moon. There are currently plans to go back in the next several years, but we've been absent now for a lot longer than we were there. The Kit This is a special re-release of Revell's 1970s kit to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the first moon landing, and includes a set of four acrylic paints in little plastic pots, a small bottle of Revell Contacta Professional glue, and a #2 paintbrush, which had become a little dishevelled during transport due to the bag it was in. Inside the top-opening box are five sprues of silver(ish) styrene, four in white styrene, and one in crystal clear plastic. The paints and instructions are accompanied by a set of decals on a medium sized sheet. First impressions are that this is a product of the times, but time has been good to the moulds, and because it is a full interior kit, the various internal parts of the model are all there, obviously in a somewhat simplified way, but certainly a good starting point if you're a detailer that is looking to build an accurate model. New Ware have a number of sets that you would probably find very useful, but of course that increases the overall price, and that's entirely up to you and your wallet. For the younger modeller that isn't so much bothered with painting, the colour of the parts is roughly broken down into their final colours, so it could be built that way, and for the folks in the middle that want to build what's in the box, there's enough to do a decent job, as can be seen by the picture on the front of the instruction booklet. Construction begins with the aft bulkhead of the crew compartment, which has a number of parts added around its perimeter, and some detail painting done before a rear panel is fitted to its underside and surrounded by a number of strengthening webs. Then the cockpit panels are made up, with decals supplied for many of the faces, although there is no raised detail moulded in, so the decals are all the detail you have. The three crew seats are mounted into a framework that suspends them out in front of the main instrument panels, and there are three crew figures, each a single part with different hand positioning to add a little variety. Their heads are moulded as the glass domes they wore during the ascent stage, but as this is white plastic, the simple option is to paint them a light blue unless you want to go crazy and find some resin heads and vacform some clear domes for each one (New Ware also have a set for this). The instructions would have you painting a black aperture as if they were wearing helmets, but that's not the case if you watch the videos of the real thing. The crew seats and main IP are then fixed to the aft bulkhead in three places, and the docking ring assembly is built up from a partial ring (only part will be seen), plus the pointed docking mechanism, which is made up from seven parts plus an external ring. This sits on top of the opaque section of the Command Module's conical skin, with the clear part added in, exposing the docking ring, and the rest of the crew compartment once it is added over the internals. Moving onto the tubular body of the Service Module (SM), the segment that will be seen through the clear part is built up, comprising various tanks, bottles and equipment, with more detail painting to give it some life. The top bulkhead where the conical CM attaches is a single part, as is the aft bulkhead, which has a small tapering tube attached inside before it is glued in place. Now the external details can be added, starting with the communications array, which has four dishes on a mast, with receivers in the centre of each one. Other small details are added around the exterior, including the four manoeuvring thruster packs, which have four individual bells and are mounted at 90o around the circumference. The crew compartment also has some grab handles added, and the big engine bell is a single part that keys into the aft bulkhead at the rear of the SM, with the comms gear fitted nearby. The CM fits to the SM with three conical pins and can be left unglued if you want to separate them later. The final parts are a stand, which has a small silver-grey part that fits onto join between the CM and SM, and two large curved white parts to hold the model off the ground. There is also a decal provided on the sheet that you fix to the large flat front. Markings Each Apollo mission had subtle differences, so Apollo 11 was unique from the others, with the decals called out on a five-view diagram on the back of the instruction booklet. The decals were printed for Revell by Zannetti, with good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. While the interior decals add a little detail to the blank instrument panel areas, they're no substitute for raised or engraved detail, and are fairly simply printed, which may put off a few potential purchasers. The exterior decals have the correct weirdly spaced A in the United States, plus a few of the stencils that are found around the spaceframe (?), with some large and small flags, and even a few tiny NASA meatballs for the crew's suits. Conclusion It's a welcome re-release, and although time has moved along, there's definitely still a market for it amongst those that want a nice desktop model, as well as anyone that will use it as a jumping-off point for a highly accurate model. When you see what can be done with it, and its finished size, it becomes quite tempting. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  19. OK, we've got an Airfix Hunter currently on its way to Chez FC courtesy of eBay, however as I'm chomping at the bit to start another build now that my Blenheim WIP is coming to an end, my thoughts have turned to it's immediate predecessor, the Canadair Sabre Mk F.4, which served with the RAF as an interim solution until the Hunter entered service. Let's have a look at what we've got then. Here are the box and sprue shots: ....... and as a teaser was showing in the first photo here's the full package showing most of what we are going to add to Revell's offering (I say most as I have also used my eBay Plane TokensTM - AKA my wages! - to buy a couple of Quickboost resin seats which should arrive in the next couple of days) The Red Roo early slatted wings is a drop in replacement for the kit parts so shouldn't offer up too many difficulties, and are needed as all the three options in the EagleStrike decals sheet have these wings specified rather than the 6-3 wing that was later fitted to the RAF machines (see note below re the 4 Sqn option as it may be that Eagle Strike made a boo boo with that one, but I'm no expert so can't say for 100% either way). Small moan, I bought them from an Australian eBay trader (international Plane Tokens needed for that one) and I got nabbed by the Royal Thieving Mail with their wonderful silver card that informed me that I was to be extorted £8.00 for them to be able to collect the £3.57 of tax/duty on my behalf. I believe a de-minimis limit should apply of at least a 50-50 split between charges and duty before collection is enforced as charging someone the best part of three times what is collected does lead to a fair bit of resentment to our lovely posties. The plan is to make the middle option, a 93 Squadron machine serialled XB829 'D', based at RAFG Jever in 1955 for no other reason than I like the arrow Squadron bars, and that I can find a photo of this airframe that supports it having the slatted wings, unlike the other option I fancied doing, the 4 Sqn one! The RAF Jever website for 4 Sqn says that 4 Sqn only flew the Hard Edged version (in keeping with their reputation) and there is a photo of XB931 in a slightly different marking scheme that appears to have the 6-3 wing as evidenced by the wing fence. I quite like the way they referred to other units using the biplane version when referring to their slatted-wing airframes. Perhaps I will build one of my Academy or Italeri 6-3 Sabres as this one. Having previously built the Hasegawa RAF Sabre boxing I can confirm that all the sprues bar the wings are the same as that boxing. The Revell boxing has the longer span 6-3 slatted wings which is no good for our chosen airframe, or any other RAF scheme as far as I know. The Hasegawa boxing had the unslatted 6-3 wing suited to the modified RAF machines. Onto the build. Well since opening the box I have had the Rocky Horror's "Let's do the Time Warp" ear-worming its merry way across my consciousness, as the metallic silver styrene is like a step back in time to the 70's as it looks just like the Airfix plastic of that era that I cut my modelling teeth on. Luckilly under a coat of Halford's primer it looks OK, I've checked that as a matter of utmost importance! First step was to glue the airbrakes in the closed position. One side fitted perfectly and the other, shall we just say, didn't. As I'm doing a camouflaged rather than natural metal finish I think we'll get away with only a bit of remedial action and still look OK. Found a couple of small sub assemblies to be going on with, i.e. the fuel tanks and main wheels, and although unphotographed I gave all the cockpit and engine parts a coat of Halford's finest. I mentioned the earlier Hasegawa RAF build. That has been sitting on my Shelf of Doom for quite a few years now as the "Muck Up Fairies" managed to pull off sizeable chunks of the decals when removing some Tamiya Masking Tape whilst doing some touch ups, so if anyone has a spare set of decals from this kit (even just the 112 Sqn sharkmouth scheme decals) I would happilly relieve your spares box of their burden in return for the odd beer token or two. I will put a proper request for this in the Wanted section at some point in the build now that my memory has been jogged. OK so until the next one.... Chris
  20. Hi.. This year mark Phantom's 60th Anniversary, a local modelling group here organize a Phantom Group Build. And since I have several in my stash, and this GB start right in my off-shore work schedule, obviously I'm obliged to join up. I start with these two 1/72 Phantom; Fujimi (Fgr.1, with Raspberry Ripple Scheme and 25th Anniversary marking) and Revell (JG.71 "Richtofen" Anniversary marking). The build started as soon I arrived and set in my usual "off shore work bench", with the F-4F got the first cut, filled the injection marks. I learned that one of the (apparently, many) flaws of the Revell was in the cockpit area. The Ejection seat mas set too low, I add several stack of evergreen strips I have with me. This made the instrument panel seated lower, So I hack out the kit's, made a new one using the strips, and glued the kit's instrument panel to keep with the original detail. Added some tiny detail to the other parts of the cockpit (wiring from the WSO's instrument panel, circuit breaker panel on the WSO's cockpit) I really not much of a Phantom Phreaks like many of you guys, and I don't have many references lying around here so.. any comments / reference are welcome.. Cheers, Mario
  21. Hi guys and gals, Can you believe this is my first Messerschmitt 109? I've been modelling for years and never got round to making one of these seminal aircraft! Well, I've now broken my duck so here's the very nice Revell G-6 Late kit in a dramatic nightfighter scheme (Red 2, 1. NJG) from an AIMS decal sheet. There are seven more versions on the sheet so it was great value. The aircraft was painted in Colourcoats enamels (still the best model paint I've ever used, and shall continue to do so!) I used RLM 74/75/76 and RLM 02 with an overspray of Night Black. I thought this was a really cool looking scheme and makes the clean lines of the aircraft look even more menacing! I don't know much about these aircraft or modelling them, so there are probably a few howlers - I just enjoyed it for the easy-to-build kit and cool paintjob! All the best, Alan
  22. This is the older Revell kit, but despite it's age, it still builds into a nice model. The fit is generally pretty good and you do have the option to fold the wings. This is built straight from the box, with the roundels masked and painted on. The aircraft is one used in the 100 Hours, or more commonly known as the Soccer War between Honduras and El Salvador in 1969. It was the last air war fought with piston engined aircraft, Honduras flying Corsairs and El Salvador flying a mix of Mustangs and Corsairs. Surviving fighters on both sides continued to serve into the 1970's.
  23. Sometimes older kits showes up as old friends. And some times as not so good friends. When it comes to 1/72 scale P-51D Mustang's the Revell kit must have an record in availability. Albeit not as an good kit. We also have older kits from Airfix, Matchbox, Heller and Hasegawa. But one of the oldest P-51's must be the Lindberg "Bomber Escort". Anyone seen it? Built it? https://www.oldmodelkits.com/index.php?detail=23976&page=1&manu=lindberg Cheers / André
  24. After a long time, I return this scale model of Avro Lancaster to 1/72 scale.
  25. Hello fellow modellers! Here is my interpretation of the Trabant Universal. Chassis is nearly finished, pictures of the body will follow. It is a little bit beaten up and dirty, but the engine is still in good shape Thanks for having a look! Dieter
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