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Found 1,507 results

  1. I managed to pick this one up on ebay last month for the bargain price of £7 & have been itching to get started on it. It's actually the Eduard kit, just in a Revell box & with Revell instructions. No photo etch stuff, but I will be trying out Bob's Buckles for the first time. I received 30 eyelets & 20 turnbuckles this week - boy are they small ! After studying my pics of the Shuttleworth's F2B I can see that I'm going to need more. Paint will be mostly Vallejo model air, I don't have any colours that match the three main colours, so that's another order required before too long - lucky the kit cost next to nothing. I started putting the cockpit parts together using the revell instructions, but decided I didn't like their colour scheme, so the floor changed from Silver to wood. I should have done the grey & wood of the instrument panel the other way round, but I'm still pleased with the way it's come out. WP_20170611_17_00_07_Pro_LI by Andy Moore, on Flickr WP_20170611_16_11_02_Pro_LI by Andy Moore, on Flickr All the inside is now painted, well as far as I'm going to anyway - the bracing wires look a bit messy, if I was doing it again I think I'd paint some stretched sprue & stick it in place of the moulded wires. WP_20170611_17_23_01_Pro_LI by Andy Moore, on Flickr WP_20170611_18_03_01_Pro_LI by Andy Moore, on Flickr This is so much more fun than a grey jet fighter
  2. Hello, This is a plane which was only on technical drawings at the end of the WWII. Revell has changed this documentation into model. It is very good kit with nice and sharp panel lines. Great fit and easy to build. Colours and scheme are just my imagination how this "German secret" might looks if it will go into action. Airbrushed with Revell aqua.
  3. Hi folk's,and to celebrate I thought let's go small,Spadad tipped me off about these little Revell gem's so here's the Seahawk the Blackhawk is next on the list, what a superb little stress free build it was,even a passible front cockpit and at just over six quid good value for money especially if you're pushed for space. Anyway firstly the this is how small it is shot and thanks for looking in.
  4. I wasn’t originally intending to document this build, but following a brief exchange in the Maritime Discussion section of the forum I have decided that I should share my trials and tribulations with this kit. Unlike my other build posts I am starting this part way through my build so there are no photographs of the box, instructions or sprue. So for the pre- amble; I was given this kit of HMS Invincible as a birthday present and it has been in languishing in my stash for a good few years along with the White Ensign PE set which I bought to go with it. Revell no longer make this kit but it is still available through Dragon along with Illustrious and Ark Royal in later guises. I have elected to depict Invincible as she was prior to the Falklands war because I have a soft spot for the blue/white colour scheme of the Sea Harriers. It is my intention to keep to the original kit as much as possible but there will be one or two minor tweeks to the kit but nothing on the scale of Bootneck’s Victorious model so this should be quite a straight forward build. As I have already mentioned I have made a start by gluing the hull components together and converting the model to waterline in common with my other ship models. This was a relatively simple evolution as the kit has a moulded line for a guide. The fo’c’sle part needed a bit of filling to mould it into the shape of hull but on the whole the parts fitted together nicely. This is the point where the modifications to the kit start. There are openings in the “garden wall” that surrounds the fo’c’sle that need to be cut out. These are for the fairleads for the fo’c’stle mooring equipment. The fairleads themselves (which I have not fitted yet) are included on the PE fret. I am using a set of Jecobin plans for reference along with a number of books I had picked up along the way. Sticking with the hull (if you excuse the pun); I have removed the moulded on markings on the flightdeck. However it is important to remember the locations of the aircraft lifts, and so I scored the positions around a template. I was tempted at cutting out a lift and depict an aircraft being moved from the hangar to the flightdeck but thought better of it in the end as it didn’t fit with the minor tweek philosophy. Next steps for the hull will be to paint the flightdeck and start the fitting the photoetch grills and details for the cut outs. Thanks for looking.
  5. Kit manufacture: Revell Scale: 1/72 Type:Lancaster B.III Special "Dambusters" Extras used: Eduard Photoetch interior and Masking set, brass guns, resin wheels, Xtradecals. Paints and colours used: Tamiya Rubber Black, Nato Black and Sea Blue (interior, underside, wheels) Gloss Black (props, undercarriage), Mr Color Dark Earth and Dark Green (RAF WWII). Gloss coat Alclad Aqua Gloss, matt cost Vallejo polyurethane Matt Varnish. Weathering wash Flory's Dark Dirt (top) and a mix of Light Wash and Black for underside. Hi all! So, I've got the Lanc finished, and roughly in time for the Dambusters anniversary! I would love to say that was mu intention, but in truth it was just coincidence. Still, it's nice to be able to commemorate the event with this build. The build thread got hit with Photobucket, and as such got semi-abandoned. The kit is Revell! It's good value for money (especially as I got it second hand) and the external detail is beautiful. However, the fit in places isn't great. It's not a bad kit by any stretch but does require quite a bit of work in places. The engines to wing join was the worst, but some of the glasswork was the most annoying. The kit decals are poor, out of register and not very receptive of decal solutions. I used Xtradecals decal sheet which were absolutely stunning. I didn't seal one side of the code numbers very well so they tore a bit with weathering, but decided to leave it a bit weathered! I used a few AM bits. Eduard interior set (waste of time, you can see nothing!), Resin wheels (forgot the make, a bit of work needed but worth it) and brass guns which are exquisite, ruined only by the chump fitting them! Also worth nothing I stuck all the small bits like activators on early doors to get a better hold. That was a silly idea, they've all gone! So here we go: That's about that! Thank you for checking in Val
  6. So guys and girls, Here she is. After almost seeing the darkness of the round archive (aka dustbin), she made it. The whole adventure can be followed in this WIP So I learned some stuff here. First how to prime with a spray can, secondly I will cut the decals following recesses next time and gloss coat them. Third I use an accryllic gloss and it is possible gluing parts after that coat with standard glue.I feel my painting skills have improved a bit and I like the highlighted effects like on the machinegun cover. The Revell kit is nice with good detail and looks good to me. I leave the accurency issues to those interested. It just has the gap at the wingroots as fault. The rest what is wrong is what I have done. The model only comes in a closed canopy variant and I took a spare from an Airfix kit. When I see what detail of the cockpit still is visible I will not do that again in this scale. Also I havent attached the extra machine guns. Though I needed to drill quite some holes, the holes for those guns arent specified. Carefull reading of the instructions could have saved me but when I noticed it was too late. Also I didnt attach the antenna wire because I couldnt find an attacment point on the copula. Experimenting on the spare copula made conclude that I will mess up the copula so I didnt try. It seems I have trouble with installing the legs of the plane also this time it was troublesome at least, dont look into the wheel wells! For the rest enjoy and feel free to comment. Greetings TC Sorry for double posting the link cant remove it
  7. Hello all, here is a Revell 1/32 Spitfire I have been building to break the slow going Ju-87 build I am on. It is painted with Humbrol colours and with only seat belts added to the standard kit. It builds ok with a few fit and mould issues, but nothing to serious to worry about. Hope you all like it, all comments are welcome :-)
  8. Hey everyone, have been working on this for a month or so now, you can find the WIP here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235031236-revell-platinum-1144-uss-fletcher/&tab=comments Thank you all for stopping by, think I will be taking on Takom's Chieftain next!
  9. Hello! This is Revell's re-issue of their Heinkel HE219, with new parts to make it as the earlier A-0. Built virtually out of the box, except for some Eduard etched seat belts. I used Xtracolor enamels for the camouflage. Straight forward kit, no real pitfalls, but it needs a lot of nose weight to keep it off it's tail! Thanks for looking, Angelo
  10. Having already edited Rafale B and M kits in 1/48th Revell has surprisingly not yet in its range the most produced variant I mean the single-seat Rafale C. This will be done in 2018. Don't forget the Korean mix (B+M=C !) edited once upon a time by the Revell plastic injection contractor: ACE (Link) - ref. 3901 - Dassault Rafale C Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/RV3901 V.P.
  11. Shar2

    MTB PT-109. 1:72

    MTB PT-109 Revell 1:72 PT-109 belonged to the PT 103 class of MTB’s, hundreds of which were completed between 1942 and 1945 by Elco. PT-109's keel was laid 4 March 1942 as the seventh Motor Torpedo Boat (MTB) of the 80-foot-long (24 m) 56 ton class, built by Elco and was launched on 20 June. She was delivered to the Navy on 10 July 1942, and fitted out in the New York Naval Shipyard in Brooklyn. The boats were manned by 3 officers and up to 12 crewmen. The Elco boats were the largest PT boats operated by the U.S. Navy during World War II, built with strong wooden hulls of two layers of 1-inch (2.5 cm) mahogany planking. Powered by three 12-cylinder 1,500 horsepower (1,100 kW) Packard petrol engines (one per propeller shaft), their designed top speed was 41 knots (76 km/h). For space and weight-distribution reasons, the center engine was mounted with the output end facing aft, with power directly transmitted to the propeller shaft. Because the center propeller was deeper, it left less of a wake, and was preferred by skippers for low-wake loitering. Both wing engines were mounted with the output flange facing forward, and power was transmitted through a Vee-drive gearbox to the propeller shafts. The engines were fitted with mufflers on the transom to direct the exhaust under water, which had to be bypassed for anything other than idle speed. These mufflers were used not only to mask their own noise from the enemy, but to be able to hear enemy aircraft, which were rarely detected overhead before firing their cannons or machine guns or dropping their bombs. The principal offensive weapon was her torpedoes. She was fitted with four 21-inch (53 cm) torpedo tubes containing Mark VIII torpedoes. They weighed 3,150 lb (1,429 kg) each, with 386-pound (175 kg) warheads and gave the tiny boats a punch at least theoretically effective even against armoured ships. Their typical speed of 36 knots (67 km/h) was effective against shipping, but because of rapid marine growth build-up on their hulls in the South Pacific and austere maintenance facilities in forward areas, American PT boats ended up being slower than the top speed of the Japanese destroyers and cruisers they were tasked with targeting in the Solomons. Torpedoes were also useless against shallow-draft barges, which were their most common targets. With their machine guns and 20 mm cannon, the PT boats could not return the large-calibre gunfire carried by destroyers, which had a much longer effective range, though they were effective against aircraft and ground targets. Because they were fueled with aviation gasoline, a direct hit to a PT boat's engine compartment sometimes resulted in a total loss of boat and crew. In order to have a chance of hitting their target, PT boats had to close to within 2 miles (3.2 km) for a shot, well within the gun range of destroyers; at this distance, a target could easily maneuver to avoid being hit. The boats approached in darkness, fired their torpedoes, which sometimes gave away their positions, and then fled behind smoke screens. Sometimes retreat was hampered by seaplanes dropping flares and bombs on the boats. The Elco torpedo-launching tubes were powered by a 3-inch (76 mm) black powder charge to expel the torpedo from the tube. Additionally, the torpedo was well greased so it would slide out of the tube. Sometimes, the powder charge caused the grease to ignite upon firing, and the resulting flash could give away the position of the PT boat. Crews of PT boats relied on their smaller size, speed and maneuverability, and darkness, to survive. Ahead of the torpedoes on PT-109 were two depth charges, omitted on most PTs, one on each side, about the same diameter as the torpedoes. These were designed to be used against submarines, but were sometimes used by PT commanders to confuse and discourage pursuing destroyers. PT-109 lost one of her two Mark 6 depth charges a month before Kennedy showed up when the starboard torpedo was inadvertently launched during a storm without first deploying the tube into firing position. The launching torpedo sheared away the depth charge mount and some of the foot rail. PT-109 had a single, 20 mm Oerlikon anti-aircraft mount at the rear with "109" painted on the mounting base, two open rotating turrets (designed by the same firm that produced the Tucker automobile), each with twin, .50-caliber (12.7 mm) anti-aircraft machine guns, at opposite corners of the open cockpit, and a smoke generator on her transom. These guns were effective against attacking aircraft. The day before her most famous mission, PT-109 crew lashed a U.S. Army 37 mm antitank gun to the foredeck, replacing a small, 2-man life raft. Timbers used to secure the weapon to the deck later helped save their lives when used as a float. The Model Although based on the old 1963 release, I believe that this kit is from new moulds, and this certainly look the case when looking at the sprues as they are the more modern enclosed style and the dated on the inner hull sections has definitely been changed. The mouldings are nicely done, although the detail does seem to be a little soft and the plastic is quite glossy. There are no major imperfections, but there are quite a few flow marks in the deck section and only a few moulding pips. There are eleven sprues and three hull sections in a medium grey styrene, three sprues in clear styrene and a small decal sheet. The build begins with the gluing together of the two hull halves and the midships bulkhead. The small insert on the lower bow is then added, as is the stern section which includes the propeller shaft and rudder holes, plus the transom which is moulded integrally. The crew rest area is made up from six parts and glued to the underside of the deck section, along with the interior steering position. Depending on whether you want to build PT 109 with the bow mounted 37mm howitzer or not will determine which holes you will need to drill out before add the deck tot eh hull. Three cleats ate then attached to the deck and the model turn over to fit the three propeller shafts, propellers and rudders. The six mufflers and their control rods are then attached to the transom. The superstructure is then built up using individual sides and bulkheads, most of which will need the clear window parts to be added before gluing into position. The roof sections will also need holes drilling out before being glued into position. The deck above the engine compartment is then fitted with a three piece skylight, 20mm cannon guide rails and four ventilators, this assembly is then glued in place, as is the gun deck immediately aft. The upper steering position is then assembled from the sides and bulkheads to which internal detail is added such as the boats wheel, internal bulkheads, searchlight and console. The forward roof section is then added as is the steering positions windscreen and aerial mast Each torpedo tube consists of four parts and once all four tubes are assembled the can be fitted to their respective positions on the deck, either stowed, or in firing positions. Each of the twin 50 cal machine gun turrets are assembled from four parts, with additional two parts of the guide cage around the top of the each turret. The 37mm consists of seven parts and is fitted to the foredeck, while the 20mm Oerlikon is an eight piece assembly fitted to the quarterdeck. There are two three piece depth charges fitted one per side on the foredeck. While on the quarterdeck the smoke discharger and ensign staff are glued into position. Lastly, the folding mast is fitted to the main cabin roof and can be posed raised or stowed. Decals Since there is only one option with this kit, naturally there aren’t too many decals. Other than those for the compass binnacles and instrument panel, there are also the hull depth markings, ensign and PT-109s codes for either side of the bow, bridge front and the 20mm cannon pedestal aft. There are also two large decals for the stands nameplates. Conclusion It’s nice to see this kit being updated, and for the most part it looks like a nice kit that can easily be detailed to the modellers own wishes and there are already etched detail sets from Eduard to help with this. Seeing as the plastic is quite glossy i would definitely prime before painting. It would make a nice introductory maritime model for those modellers new to the genre of narrow seas boats. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  12. It's my first topic here, so let me introduce myself shortly: I'm a polish scale modeler. I've built models since I was a teenager and a member of a local modeling club. When I was 18/19 years old, I had to take a break due to lack of time. Almost 10 years later, my fiance gave me a birthday gift (airplane model - Lublin r.XIII ter), to recall myself how it was to be a modeler again It should’ve been one-time adventure, but obviously it was exactly the opposite. This Corsair is the third completed one from then. Previous two models were rather training ones, I had to recall myself all the techniques and honestly, I didn’t have a nice workbench tools or paints, besides little box with pile set, scalpel, and 3-4 paints. Now, my workbench has grown, I have lots of useful tools. I chose brush painting technique, to have more fun while working. I am aware of better quality performed by using airbrush, but to be honest, I am a brush fan and I won’t give it up for sure. My goal is to achieve such high painting quality as an airbrush. Before starting to build Corsair, I thought of showing my work at some small modeling exhibitions and share on the internet forums. I didn’t use any additional, bought parts or even canopy masks. I made them all by myself, for example: masks are made of masking tape. I am satisfied with the painting - layers are really thin, they didn’t hide panel lines. My brush didn’t leave streaks, because I used flat brush and paint thinner. However, I am not happy about paint chips and scratches. I chose wrong technique and even though I tried to fix this, but my efforts were pointless, because it looked worse. I need to focus on that. The orange strip on the fuselage is painted, not used from decals. I focused on engine, some photos are attached below. You are welcome to check out my work in progress gallery on my blog. It’s in polish (english version in progress), but you can see a lot of photos there: http://minihangar.online/warsztat-corsair-f4u-4-revell-172/ http://minihangar.online/warsztat-corsair-f4u-4-revell-172-cz-2/ http://minihangar.online/warsztat-corsair-f4u-4-revell-172-cz-3/ http://minihangar.online/warsztat-corsair-f4u-4-revell-172-cz-4/ http://minihangar.online/warsztat-corsair-f4u-4-revell-172-cz-5/ http://minihangar.online/warsztat-corsair-f4u-4-revell-172-cz-6/ http://minihangar.online/warsztat-corsair-f4u-4-revell-172-final/ And gallery: In progress:
  13. 2017 Ford GT 1:24 Revell The original Ford GT was an iconic racing car from the 60s that ended the company's lack of success at Le Mans that had lasted for many years. As a concept car the thoroughly modern GT, which we'll call the first generation was developed into a road car in the mid 2000s, with Jeremy Clarkson famously regretting his purchase due to some pretty serious reliability issues with his, which ended with the return of the car and his money. It was always planned to be a low production run, with some cars changing hands well above sticker-price until production ceased in 2007. A new generation was announced in 2015, with a sleeker more modern bodyshell that owes less to its heritage than the first generation, and production beginning the following year in Ontario, outputting one vehicle per day. It can rocket to 60mph in a breath-taking 2.8 seconds, with 100 coming up less than 4 seconds later, but if you have to ask about the fuel economy, this isn't the car for you. Ford have also returned to Le Mans with this car (although not too successfully in 2018), with carbon fibre helping to reduce weight, and ultra-thin gorilla glass used to reduce the weight of the glazing, allowing the 3.5L engine to put its 650hp to good use. You'll need a pretty fat wallet to afford one, at around $400,000 before you start adding your customisations, so a model kit is about as close as most of us will ever get to owning one. The Kit Revell's Easy Click system is employed on this kit, opening up the market to kids, non-modellers and modellers alike who just want to own a replica of this road-going monster, without spending months painting and detailing it. As you would expect, the part count is a friendly 27 pieces, and everything is supplied either pre-painted or moulded in the correct shade for its purpose, requiring minimal removal from sprues. The box is standard Revell end-opening, with a stylised picture of the model zooming down the track it has been PhotoShopped onto. Inside are two outer bags that have been taped tightly to prevent chaffing, and inside are more bags for the components by colour or theme. Inside the instruction booklet is a set of decals and also a cut-down set of stickers for those builders that really don't want to get involved in the modelling aspect of the kit. It is a chassis and interior only kit, with a flat floorpan, an impression of the V6 EcoBoost engine in the rear of the interior, and enough detail to give the impression of the rest. The bodyshell is moulded in a metallic blue that has tiny silver flakes suspended in the styrene, and has a reasonable lustre for an unpainted model. The interior is in a dark grey, the wheels a nice aluminium shade, and the tyres are a soft rubbery-feeling plastic that mimics the look of the real thing. Construction shouldn't take long, but if you are wanting a little more realism, there are colours called out as you progress for spot-painting the engine and interior parts that weren't economical to paint at the factory. Decals or stickers are also called out as you go through the build too. It begins with the interior tub, which has the headlight cluster moulded-in, as well as the engine compartment, both of which are to be spot-painted with metallic, and a few decals or stickers to improve realism. The seats should be two-tone, and fit into the rear of the passenger compartment, after removing four extra sprue-traps that are there to prevent short-shots in the parts. The dash is a single part, with the steering wheel inserted into the left, and a bunch of decals/stickers used for the instruments, after which it is installed across the front of the cab. Moving onto the bodyshell, the front light glazing is carrier on a single part that has a slightly cloudy look that should disappear when it is fitted, and should show off any detail painting you have done in the light body. This fits onto a lug in the underside of the bonnet/hood. The main glazing is very flexible, and it too fits into the shell from the inside, reusing the front lug, and another at the rear to keep it in place. The side windows remain unglazed to allow a good view into the cab. The interior fits into the bodyshell, and the four wheels are shod with their rubber parts, then steel rods are threaded through the running gear, which have the basics of the brake discs at each end to give a view through the spokes after you have pushed the wheels into place. These two fit into slots in the floor pan, and the body is held in place by a pair of black pins that push through from the underside of the floor pan. The addition of the wing mirrors and rear light clusters finish off the build, and the last two pages of the booklet show where the remaining decals/stickers go on the wheels, arches, bonnet and rear of the car. Markings The car can be left unpainted due to its self-coloured nature, with paint optional for parts of the interior, lights and the exhausts if you feel up to it. The decal options are more varied than the stickers, which only have one number plate from Michigan US or a generic GT show-plate instead. The decal sheet also provides plates for Germany, the UK, Netherlands, Switzerland, Italy, France, Belgium, Austria and Russia, which should keep their main markets happy. The plates are applied by cutting out the decals and sticking them directly to the model, without getting them wet, which might upset some of the modeller-y people, but a quick dip into the styrene sheet will result in a proper backing for the decal if you so wish it and aren't worried about them getting knocked off during play. Decals will of course give the best finish, but it is good that those with less patience and modelling skill also get the stickers for speed and ease. Conclusion It's not a highly detailed museum quality replica, but it was never intended to be. What it does is allows non-modellers or young people to build their own model of this amazing-looking Ford, putting as much or as little effort into it as they please. It's a great introduction to modelling that could tempt people into doing more, or it can be seen for what it is, a nice rendition of a lovely car in one of the dominant scales for car models. I put this together in the spirit that it was intended (i.e. fairly quickly & with a paint brush) as a break from a boring task I was doing, and it hit the spot Pics below in the next post Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  14. Sukhoi Su-33 Navy Flanker (03911) 1:72 Revell The SU-33 is a carrier based development of the SU-27 that has suffered from the dearth of finances following the break-up of the Soviet Union at the end of the last millennium. Soon after it was taken into service by the Soviet Navy, funding was reduced to the military as a whole, and as a result only 24 airframes were ever built. Overseas sales were attempted, but none came to fruition for various reasons, and further sales to the Russian Navy weren't an option, as in 2009 they decided on the navalised Mig-29K going forward. Beginning with the basic SU-27 airframe, the internal structure and landing gear were beefed up to cope with the additional stresses of hard carrier landings, the wings were enlarged to provide additional lift, and both the wings and stabs were fitted with folding mechanisms for storage below decks. The first aircraft embarked on the Admiral Kuznetsov in 1995 after substantial testing, but the cancellation of other carriers led to the projected buy of 72 airframes being cut back to the aforementioned 24. They are being drawn down in favour of the Mig-29K, and will be refurbished to replace their outdated avionics for future use elsewhere. The Kit For this kit Revell have brought us the excellent Zvesda plastic in their own box. Construction begins with the cockpit. The ejector seat is built up, if adding the pilot figure than the seat pad and belts part can be left off. If you dont want to add a pilot figure in the cockpit then a standing figure is also included to pose next to the model. The seat and control column are added to the tub and this is inserted into the top fuselage half along with the control panel (instruments provided as a decal). Construction then moves to the lower fuselage. The front gear bay is assembled and added in, along with the main gear bays. Once these are in the fuselage half's can be joined together. Next up the engines are made up and installed. The rear cone and burner ring are added at the back the the middle ring is added, followed by the afterburner section. Te inner sections of the tail planes are then added to the fuselage. Next up the large intake tunnels are built up, an engine fan front is provided for the rear, additionally FOD blanks are supplied as well. Fuselage and centre line pylons are added at this stage followed by the two ventral strakes. The two vertical tails are then added. The outer tailplanes can be added in the down position, or folded. If the main wings are to be folded then the fold mechanism is added at this stage. Back at the front the canard wings are added along with the nose cone. The cannon muzzle is fitted along with the HUD, front screen and IR sensor. Construction then moves to the landing gear. At the front the two wheels are added to the leg along with the landing lights and a couple of struts. The front gear door has its hinged and retraction strut added. The mains have a hub and single part tyre added to the leg, retraction struts are added and the doors get their hinges and struts added. The outer wing panels are made up, there are conventional upper/lower parts with a separate flap section (different ones for lowered and raised) and the wingtip missile rail to add. Two weapons pylons are added to each wing, there is a choice of pylons but no mention of which ones to use, so check your references. The wing panels can now be added either in the folded or unfolded positions. Finishing up weapons can be added where needed, The main canopy is added, along with the nose cone and its pitot. The large upper airbrake can be added in the closed or open position. A boarding ladder is provided if the modeller wants to use it. Decals The decals for this kit are printed in Italy by Cartogrf so that assures you will have no problems with them. From the sheet one of two aircraft can be built; Red 78, 279th KIAP (1st Sqn) Admiral Kuznetsov 2017 Red 86, 279th KIAP (2nd Sqn) Admiral Kuznetsov 2017 The kit provides a comprehensive set of stencils and very good instruction for there placement. Conclusion Revell give us the great Zvesda plastic with new decals. Our very own Flankerman said this was in his opinion the Best moulded Su-33 in this scale and that's good enough for me. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  15. Good afternoon everyone! I think it's time I stepped into the breach and had a crack at this group build that I had promised to get involved with quite a while ago. So, what will I be building? I'll be having a go at the 1:32 Revell Tornado GR.1 kit that I picked up from Telford last year, hopefully in a raspberry ripple scheme used by the Royal Aircraft Establishment (the Tornado in question being ZA326 currently at Bruntingthorpe). Hang on a minute, you might be thinking, RAE is not part of the RAF and therefore ineligible for this group build! Well, I fully admit that this would ordinarily be the case, this build will be dedicated to JARTS (JARTS standing for the Joint Aircraft Recovery and Transportation Squadron) which "assisted with the dismantling and reassembling of the aircraft for road transportation" of ZA326. (Source) To further reflect the relation to JARTS, I'll be building ZA326 in a similar state to its current situation with multiple panels removed and/or left open. And finally to distance the aircraft from RAE, I will be painting/decalling ZA326 in its current scheme at Bruntinghthorpe (IE: without the RAE lettering and crest seen during service). -Pictures will soon follow as I commence the build. Thanks for dropping by! Best wishes, Sam
  16. Even more than usual with my builds, purists look away now! For those of you still here, welcome to pure sentimentality. My dad (1926-2001) had been with 73 squadron in Malta and when the Matchbox kit came out he brought it but never got round to building it. Then somewhere along the line it got lost/ thrown out when he moved into warden-controlled housing. The Christmas before he died (2000), my wife and I made and painted the Airfix 1:48 version as a 73 sun plane, which he was thrilled about and could even remember working on the original plane. But it's very faded now, so this GB gives me the chance to pay my respects to my dad and build a replacement. I know the Matchbox kit has lots of flaws but I've decided that my dad would've built it OOB, and so will I. And if the rumours about Revell are for the worse it might yet turn into a Revell tribute build as well. And so to the kit etc. Not the Matchbox boxing, but figured it won't matter once it's made up! now to the contents I remember the long thin Matchbox packaging so was taken by surprise at how compact it all is in the Revell version. Alas, no three colour plastic. I was amused that Revell talk of this as a classic mould and admit that it's ex-Matchbox; seriously I think that's a very honest thing today, nowadays with Airfix I don't know if I'm paying for a repop or a smart new moulding. First up will be the engine etc. I'll leave as much exposed as I can- what with dad having been an engineer it does seem most appropriate. Haven't decided if there's any place for the jolly good sport of a pilot that's provided but probably not as I get bored painting them! Also, there'll be a friendly email to Revell as the decals have got some water-damage and I don't fancy lining a super thin black band. I won't be starting promptly at 00:01, but hopefully before next weekend something will have happened.
  17. Hi everyone, More of a 'what might have been' than 'what if'. In the mid 2000’s in the Republic of Ireland, consolidation of aircraft and responsibilities led to a competition to replace the Air Corps’ 40-year-old Alouettes in the Army liaison role with a new, larger utility type helicopter that could also fulfill a Medium lift role. The competing types for the order were the proven Sikorsky Blackhawk, the Eurocopter Cougar and the Agusta-Bell (now Agusta Westland) AB139 which was originally designed as a civilian machine and at that time had no military users. From what I’ve read, the Irish Air Corps and Army’s preference was the Blackhawk - which members of our Forces (particularly our Ranger Spec Ops Wing), were familiar with having being part of the UN operation in East Timor with Australian Blackhawks and also while on training ops in the US. The Blackhawk’s service record worldwide was regarded as being better than the Cougar. There were also reports that Sikorsky offered a very good deal to the Irish Government which would have brought six new a/c and six reconditioned machines for a very competitive price. In the end, the AW139 was selected and the Air Corps became the first military operator of the type. Six aircraft currently serve with No. 3 Operations Wing. For what it's worth, Agusta Westland have now developed a pure military version, the larger AW149. So here it is, Revell's re-box of Italeri's UH-60A in Irish Air Corps markings. If you're interested, the full WIP build is here. This was the first....and last Revell/Italeri Blackhawk I'll build....really poor fit and general detail and it can't really hold it's own against the newer Hobby Boss kits which I'd rate as being far superior. Oh well, you live and learn! Cheers, Dermot
  18. Star Wars: Solo Millennium Falcon 1:164 Revell Star Wars is back again after the disquiet caused by new sequel trilogy film The Last Jedi, this time with an origin story of possibly the saga's most popular character, Han Solo, smuggler, ladies' man and all-round scruffy lookin' nerfherder, this time played by some young gentleman for obvious reasons. I've not seen Solo yet myself (things get in the way), but it's supposed to be another good film that's only occasionally corny, pleasing more of the fanbase than expected, especially after the negative press that it was receiving before release from the more vocal "fans". I'll hold my opinion until after I've seen it, but the toughest part will be wraming to the new guy, as Han Solo is Harrison Ford for me (should that be the other way round?). Some of the vehicles looked a bit odd when I first saw them, but this Lando Calrissian era Falcon kit has grown on me, and although I initially found it a bit weird-looking, I now quite like it. The Falcon's loading mandibles finally make sense with the addition of the cargo pod, and where there are open panels and greeblies all over the Star Wars era Falcon, this newer Falcon has the majority of them still in place, giving it a sleeker look, which is accentuated by the cleaner paintwork that hasn't yet acquired that lived-in, bodged-together patchwork texture and battle damage that we all know so well. The Kit Revell have the license for Star Wars model kits in Europe and the West, and it's good to see them back in action after recent problems resulted in a new management as well as ownership of the company. Solo's raft of new ship and vehicle designs have been committed to plastic in the Build & Play range, which my Son is very fond of and he can still be found playing with the originals a couple of years later, with their original batteries still going strong. His eyes lit up when he saw these, so there's little doubt where they'll be going the minute I've finished with them. All three of the kits in the initial launch have standard-sized boxes, with plenty of card inserts packing out the parts to prevent scuffs from rattling around, and parts bagged in small numbers where appropriate. There are only 21 parts, but detail is pretty good considering, even within the single part cockpit that could be painted up before installation if you're so minded. The scale is an odd one, but we have come to expect that from Revell who seem to have adopted the old "box scale" for these kits to an extent. That said, there was plenty of space in the box for a larger scale (say 1:144), but I guess they're not aiming this kit at the purists and modellers, but as the range already makes clear, the kits are designed for kids to build up in a few minutes (it took me less than 5), then play with for months or years with little chance of it falling to bits. When taken for what they are intended to be, I think they are awesome and my son would agree whole-heartedly! Building the kit is simple, and begins with the five gear legs that clip firmly into the lower hull along with the crew access ramp. The central gun port is next, with an insert for the faceted glazing, and just one solitary cannon for the operator to pew-pew-pew with. The cylindrical ports on the sides are fitted next, and the fun part that is the light and sound module slots into the aft portion of the lower hull, with perforations to allow the sounds to escape and two blue LEDs that light up the clear exhaust letterbox, which is fitted next after the cockpit part. The other gun emplacement and close-fitting dish are installed in the top hull, which is then pressed into the lower, and the canopy added. The cargo pod is two simple parts with nice detail in the rear, which clicks in and out of the mandibles with a friction fit holding it in place. The landing gear can be posed up or down, with small finger notches either side of the bays to allow little fingers to pull them down from their retracted position just proud of the surface of the hull – not accurate to the original, but it's a concession to the play aspect and totally understandable, as is the choice of more sturdy and robust plastic, plus design tweaks such as the top and bottom cannons being captive to their ring to save them from being bent and broken off. The lights are quite effective, and there are four sounds that play in sequence whenever the rearmost middle exhaust port is pressed, which are roughly translated, start-up, firing weapons, light drive/leaving the atmosphere (I'm not sure which), and another more staccato round of cannon fire. To the grown-up ear the cannon fire is obviously a short sample that is looped a few times, but kids just won't care and rightly so. Conclusion A cool addition to the Build & Play line-up, and one that will be popular with the kids, with enough detail to satisfy some modellers that can either live with the more play related features, or have the skills to make the alterations so it better reflects a model. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  19. Hello! Now that I have just about finished building the first subject in my personal 100 Group project, I've decided it's time to move on to the second subject, before I get distracted (say by that B-17 STGB that's coming up later this year). For those that might be interested, here's the Wellington thread: This time I'm tackling Revell's 1/72 Halifax III kit, with the intent of building MZ913 "Jane". This is a not uncommon subject for modellers and appears in many publications; I'm sure the scantily clad lady on the front has nothing to do with that. MZ913 was delivered to 462 Squadron in August 1944, apparently, but other sources indicate that it first flew operationally in January 1945. The intervening period may quite possibly have been taken up with converting the airframe to use the Airborne Cigar (ABC) radar jamming equipment that 462 Sqn operated after it transferred in 100 Group. I've had the pleasure of building the Revell Merlin-engined Halifax kit about six years or so ago, but I can't recall many positive or negative features of the build other than the widely excoriated fat nacelles, which obviously aren't going to be an issue on this Hercules powered bird. In any case, I'm no Halifax expert, and from what I've seen, the final result looks like a Halifax. Building OOB isn't really an option as the ABC apparatus means there are three large aerials on the fuselage, which I'll scratchbuild. Profiles and photos of Jane indicate that a host of other ECM equipment was fitted: Piperack, Carpet, Monica, plus some slightly mysterious (to me) hemispherical bumps on the bomb bay doors, which I've seen described as being for rotating antennae. Decals for the markings and art will come from the DK Decals 100 Group sheet, and I've also acquired an Eduard etch set to jazz up the wheel wells and a few other external areas. I've done virtually no scratch building before, so this might be a bit of an adventure for me. I hope it won't take quite as long as the eighteen month Wellington build, but I know myself too well to believe that I'll be able to focus just on this build for any more than a couple of weeks; it's very likely that I'll put Jane aside now and then to dally with something else. The thread title, by the way, is shamelessly taken from a history of 462 Sqn, though sadly I don't possess a copy. I'm sure it reflects the hopes of the many brave men that flew in Jane. Before I go, let me post some photos of the real thing, both courtesy of the Australian War Memorial. Thanks for reading!
  20. Has anyone had any experience with the MDC Spitfire I spinner for the recentish Revell Spitfire IIa 1.32 kit? I read somewhere that one person found it a trifle too small for the spinner hub, and I was hoping that was an isolated incident, but I thought it would be more fun to find out before buying it. Any information you have is most appreciated!
  21. More or less in a month, I´ll be having my Winter recess (after an exam in which I don´t have anything to study from aside for a bunch of schemes thrown out there without any words), and from the seven kits I have on my stash, I picked this one to become sixth build. The model itself is over 40 years old, from the now gone Frog. It doesn´t have much flash, but it does have some moulding defects, and the propeller was designed to turn to the wrong way. The kit comes with only one decal option, Green 9, Willi Reschke´s aircraft. I saw on a video build for this aircraft that the only area with gaps will be the wing/fuselage join, so I may use filler on said gaps (I don´t want to use any, to preserve the panel lines).
  22. I received this kit from a modelling friend who got it from someone else too. It was already started,although in very bad condition.It must have been started some 20+ years ago with some parts already glued and terribly painted. My friend was unsure what to do with it,so he gave it to me,hoping that I might have some use for it,being as a parts donator for my other DC-10s. I thought I try to save it and repaint and finish the build.But as the Revell kit has its issues,I tried to correct some areas and enhance the overall look of the kit. Changes / corrections I made; - Correcting the nose,cockpit area - Rework the engines ( extending the mountings and rework the intakes and exhausts) - adding the APU - extend the wingbox to match the DC-10-30 (kit is more a DC-10-10) - lowering the slats like they were when the DC-10 was on the ground It took quite a while to get all as it should be,the wingbox was the most time consuming area. The decals come from 26,NAZCA and Authentic airliners. I am not completely satisfied with the outcome but it was a good exercise for my other Revell DC-10s I might do a WIP on my next Revell DC-10 to show the conversions Enjoy,
  23. I wasn’t planning on doing this until after Christmas but it seemed to be calling me from it’s box under my desk! Indeed, I seem to have something of an aircraft factory going on with a 1/390 747 and a 1/72 Spitfire also at various stages of construction, although I will go straight to an RFI with those. So far I have filled the windows with Superfine Milliput, installed the cockpit window, glued the two fuselage halves, the wings and a few other tedious things such as the usual filling, sanding, priming... so, what do we have: Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.rackonly.com Two main sprues and a clear sprue containing the cockpit glazing and lights. Absolute ton of flash. Some of it so bad it’s hard to see where the flash ends and the molded part begins. With a lot of tedious cleanup I was ready to begin. Windows filled with Milliput. I rolled up some sausages and pushed them through from the inside. Once cured for an hour I sliced them flush and then sanded further once the Milliput had dried fully overnight. Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.rackonly.com With that done it was all glued together with some weight in the front courtesy of some bolts. There was a bit of misalignment in the top part of the fuselage but with a bit of manipulation and gluing in parts with Tamiya Extra Thin I got it close. Scraping and sanding and a touch of filler has got it nearly right but I’ll need to do a bit more work including rescribing. Thankfully, I now have a tool for that! Next post will show how she is so far...
  24. I had been looking at getting a 1/48 Tornado F.3 kit when Revell released theirs. Not usually one to go for new kits I thought I would give it a go. Some Amazon birthday vouchers got me on my way and today I would call her nearly done. No weapon load out yet, and about 300 No Step decals still left, but the sunshine was too good to resist. And the aircraft herself. Many thanks to @MADMUSKY for the 23 Sqn eagles to change her from the Revell special tail to regular EZ Thanks for looking
  25. Hello all, I've been away a long time, and this is the first time this Hunter has seen the light of day on Britmodeller. This is a 1/32 Revell Hunter F.6, with the Xtradecal Black Arrows roundels applied, and hand cut cheat lines to get S/L Brian Mercer's first mount as a Blue Diamond. Paint used was Testors Blue Angels Blue, the closest I could get to the specified colour. I used the squadron emblem from the kit, as I could not find one with a green cobra that fit. as soon as I find one, I will replace it. Next one up to complete a set of aerobatic team Large Bore (Avon 200) Hunters is the Swiss Team. looking for ward to your thoughts on the build. TW
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