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Found 1,507 results

  1. Boeing B17F Memphis Belle Revell 1:72 The B17 Flying Fortress probably doesn't need an introduction, but it's professional to write one so I will ! It's birth originated from a competition with Douglas and Martin to supply a contract for 200 bombers to the USAAF in the 1930's. This was in part due to it's 4 engines configuration that gave benefits such as load capability and engine out performance, which as we know, would prove to be life saving in it's combat career. Early B17's had the slim rear fuselage with no rear turret, however, combat experience with the bomber proved a lack of effectiveness in the daylight offensive role, particularly with the RAF who used it early on in the war, so further development was required to learn from this experience. The E model introduced the more familiar shape with a much larger tail and rear gun position, new flush transparencies and more powerful engines to cope with the extra weight that evolution had brought upon it. From this was born the F model that was modified to increase combat range and payload. The B17 numerically was mostly employed over Europe by US Eighth Airforce in daylight attacks into Germany. It was realised here that the F model had inadequate firepower in the nose area as the German interceptors made good use of head on attacks. This experience brought about the infamous G model with a chin turret to fight off such attacks. The B17 was liked by it's crews due to the amount of punishment it could receive yet still get home. There's many images available showing B17's flying and back at home with huge sections and engines missing as a result of combat. The later variants had no less that 13 guns to fight off enemy attacks. Whilst it can be compared to the Lancaster, in many ways, it was very different. It was more heavily armed, but carried a much lighter bomb load due to it's primary role in daylight bombing unlike the Lancaster fighting it's war mostly at night. The kit The first thing you will notice is the huge box that the kit comes in with it's striking image of the infamous Memphis Belle across the front. Inside there are 8 light grey frets and a huge clear fret wrapped in 4 plastic bags. The fuselage and wing detailing utilises recessed panel lines. On first impressions these look to be a little heavy, but with paint on, they will tone done somewhat. I'm saying this based on completed models of the earlier G models that I've seen. One of the strong points of the modern Revell kits is the vast amount of interior detail you get and this one is no exception. Right through the fuselage, each compartment is nicely populated, the nose, cockpit, bomb bay, radio compartment, waste gun area and tail all have detail candy that not only adds interest, but increases the rigidity of the kit when it's glued together. The amount of detail is reflected in the instruction booklet that has no less than 86 steps to assemble the 235 parts together ! The B17 bristles with guns and turrets, so it's important that these areas are well represented. Revell has succeeded admirably with this. The guns are nicely detailed with dimpled barrels and the turrets all have plenty of detail in them. The wing spar is incorporated into the bomb bay assembly creating a rigid centre box on which to assemble the fuselage around. This is an area in which Revell have been clever in recent years in that you can leave the wings off until the finishing stages of your build then literally just slide them on to the spars at the last stage without having to worry about filler to blend the roots in. Another feature that stands out to me is the detail in the wheel bays. Fuel tanks and super charger ducting is visible. With the flaps dropped, the bomb bay open and the detailed wheel bays, it's almost a shame to stand the finished aircraft the right way up ! The only fault I've come across on my review is that one of the upper wing halves is warped. I don't think it will be a problem when mated with it's opposing half, and I'm not sure if it's a one off. There was a small amount of black residue on the kit that looks like oil or mould release agent, so whether there was an issue in manufacture on this kit I don't know. The Transparencies On the whole, this fret is impressive, but with one big let down that I'll come to shortly. The fret appears to be a universal one in that it provides parts for both the F and G models. Most of the parts are crisply moulded and will allow that glorious detail to be on show where they reside behind windows. The F model didn't have protruding cheek windows like the G did, instead it had flush windows, which in modelling terms are better because they will show off the interior detail better. What I like about the Revell kit in the cheek windows is that they are part of a larger clear piece so that you can fit them without the risk of spoiling them with glue, another well thought out feature. The ventral gun position in front of the tail can be modelled open or closed as can the waist gun windows. What I have noticed is that on the G model, the upper turret appears to sit too high to which there has been debate. Looking at the picture of the assembled model on the instructions here, this doesn't seem to be the case with the turret used on the F model. Indeed, the turret dome isn't as high as the G turret and the proportions look 'right'. Now for my only complaint on the clear components. The nose blister is far too thick. Having built the old Hasegawa one years ago which is excellent in this area, I feel the Revell part is very poor and I'm not quite sure why they let this happen. The nose blister is a prominent feature of the B17 and if fitted as standard, you will get a thick luminous ring around where it mates against the nose (as per their box photo). The only two options I can see here is fit an after market part if available or paint the rear surface to eliminate the luminous glow before fitting (or live with it !). The Decals Whilst the Memphis Belle is historically an important and infamous aeroplane and hence a great scheme to use for Revells marketing, it's quite a dull option as far as building a model is concerned unless you really want to build the Memphis Belle. This is where I'm really pleased with what Revell have done. They've provided a fantastic second option - The Shamrock Special. What I like about this is that it has the USAAF insignia's with the red surrounds and nose art, not just on both sides of the nose, but on the tail as well. I'll be building this option ! The decal sheet is in excellent register and the colours vibrantly printed. If you like your builds to have the stencils added, Revell have catered for you very nicely. Conclusion On the whole, this is a great kit. Revell have continued their trend of applying great engineering to a highly detailed model to provide excellent value for money. The interior is amazing, the open / closed options on gun positions, bomb bay and flaps is well designed and in general, the transparencies allow for the excellent interior to be shown off. Apart from the wing warp, the only let down in my opinion is the thick nose blister, however I've no doubt that this will be a success for Revell. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  2. So finally, after many months of delay due to 'family things' I've found some time to post a few images of my finished Enterprise! You can see my 'work in progress' thread at Revell Enterprise NCC1701 (TOS) - My First Model, which includes lots of photos, some better than these tbh. As mentioned previously, this was my first model. I've learned a lot so far and enjoyed every minute of the build (apart maybe from masking the windows before paint spraying). I really need to get a decent camera and video camera. I used my phone and these are pretty poor quality, the video is pretty dark and shakey too so sorry about that I also need to create a work-in-progress post for my Revell Klingon D7 that I've started, but havent worked on for a while. Anyway, here they are.... I plan to add some weathering in future models and to be a bit more adventurous when it comes to correcting inaccuracies in the model compared to the TV/Movie models. But, for a first model I'm very happy with this
  3. So I have now finished the Golf and I must admit I am pretty pleased how it turned out, its not perfect but after an 11 year break it was a great little model to get stuck into.
  4. My latest build, the USS Voyager, it’s the Revell kit. I didn’t use a lighting kit, but some spare LEDs I had hanging around. What do you all think? And without the lights on.....
  5. Eurofighter Typhoon T3 1:48 Revell Evening all, I finished this build over Christmas, but with the glorious weather we've been having this past week it felt like a good excuse to break out the camera. I haven't really got much to say about this build; despite the excess amount of flash and variations in panel line thickness, it builds upon into a good representation of a Typhoon. Paints, as usual, are Vallejo and the APU exhaust was done by spraying UMP dark dirt. -Thanks for having a look, see you next time! Best wishes, Sam
  6. Some photos of my Helldiver diorama, pulling out of a dive, under fire, hydraulics lagging, fleeing for cover and altitude. This is the beautiful Revell 1:48 kit which I enjoyed very much. I left off the gunners (admittedly very sensible) armour plate in order to give more of a gung-ho feeling to the scene. Thanks for looking! CF
  7. So here is my first post in the WIP Section, this is my 2nd model after an 11 year break and I must admit I am really enjoying the build. Primed with Automotive Primer from a Rattle Can: Then spray painted in a Mercedes Pearlescent Black from a rattle can: Engine all done: Underside all weathered, might have gone a bit overboard with the dry brushing: Decals all done on the seats:
  8. Hi folk's I,ve only ever built one airliner since getting my second wind in modelling Lufthansa's Airbus from Revell back in 2014.I picked up this kit as a next project back then but never got it started so here is a perfect chance to build what is in my opinion a beautiful if ill fated aircraft,Revell re-boxed ICM's kit which is nicely molded in white slightly grainy plastic with no flash.Now this one will be slow I decided on on morning a week(my rationed time at the bench) to complete the build so I can enjoy the rest in the GB and soak up the inspiration and techniques.The Box Art. Oh and said Airbus.
  9. SE5a Revell (Eduard) 1/48 Pheon decals I have never made a biplane but have wanted to model a Wingnut Wings. So I decided to model a cheaper kit and see what results I could reach? I am partially colour blind so used the AK Interactive paint kits, Clear Doped Linen, 3 colours and WW1 RFC & RNAS 4 colours. Rigging line : EZ line (fine) and some V.Fine Uschi van Roten I think Trnbuckles Albion Alloys TB2 1/32 scale but cut in half. Unlike most of my previous kits this was a joy. It’s the first time trying to make wood grain and while it is a bit clumsy the new technique tamya paint, winsor and Newton oils tamya clear orange. The results were satisfactory. Airbrushing: AK Interactive paints thinned with Lifecolor thinners worked ok Mini disaster as the softening decal solution got under the Humbrol varnish (perhaps the layer was too thin) and messed up the large T on upper wing, After remedial airbrushing and varnish I used another “T” from the Pheon range although its not quite the right font – devil rides when needs must. Placing the wings 4 may be 5 attempts and in the end removed most of the lugs from the lugs superglued in 0.3mm dia brass wire, drilled holes in the wings and fuselage. When the fine diameter wires were in all the holes it gave me a semi rigid structure that I could move around and line things up…. I am a retired dentist so used silicone impression material to make an impression of the lower surface upper wing and cast it in quick etting resin – materials I was used to handling when I had a day job. I used this as a jig to glue the struts to the lower wing and then replaced this when things were set with the upper wing and dropped runny superglue through the holes in the upper wing Then over a week set about the rigging. Wingnut Wings SE5a gave rigging instructions were used in the main because I couldn’t find super detail instructions as to where the locating places were. My method of rigging I don’t know whether its novel or a mix of other modellors. Superglue one end, run the turn buckles on, stretch slightly and super glue the other end, then put the turn buckles in the correct positions and superglue them in place. Painting the rigging – didn’t know whether to or not – so as this was an experimental model for me decided to use Mr Metal Color Aluminum. If nothing else it filled in the slight unsightly gap in the turnbuckle brass tube and with a bit of artistic license and a kind eye of the beholder it might look like air foil rigging wires…. Pleased Yes! Beats a nonsensical F40 I finished recently. Any comments good or otherwise gratefully received.
  10. Hi all, my second ju 88 build of the year, in the markings of lt. Udo Cordes. 6 (Eis) kg3 Poltava may 1943. By April 1943 he had distroyed 63 locos and by May 1943 he was also credited with 8 bridges, 19 tanks, 32 artillery pieces, 96 trucks and 9 complete trains making him one of kg3s most successful pilots. He was killed with his crew on 15 May 1943.while flying ju 88 c-6 w nr 360366. By this time he had destroyed 81 locos and 2 aircraft. The kit is revell's ju 88 c-6 kit no 04856 Quick boost mg 81's & pitot tube Resin wheels Scatch built radio altimeter aerials Streched sprue radio aerials Aims decals. (as most references state codes are 5k+rt. I changed the 5k+et codes on the aims sheet) All paint are extacolor rlm 02, 66, 65, 70, 71, (humbrol 154 for the rlm 04 theater markings) Weathering was by pastels and mrp exhaust soot. Thank for looking, as always all comments are welcomed. Nick
  11. Hello all. I have a number of Grumman products in the stash and had originally decided to enter this GB with a 1/72 Hasegawa F-14 in Iranian colours. However, being a bit thick, I sold that kit a few months ago. It was replaced in a bit of a hurry by Revell's 1/144 A model in the VX-4 Black Bunny boxing, which I will build here as a line bird in classic grey and white. The black plastic will save me a coat of paint for black basing... In addition, I'll be making an attempt at the D 'Super Tomcat' version of the kit, probably the aircraft with the low viz shark mouth on it. A story attaches to this - I was looking after a friend's model shop earlier in the week and things were quiet. Idle hands in a hobby shop... Hmm... There was a D on the shelf, and all the tools I could need; what else could be the result? Of course, as soon as I clipped the first bits off the sprue and started fitting them together the door opened and it got busy, but I now own another small Tomcat, (yes, I paid for it) so I'll build both of them here. No photos yet (haven't added them to my Flickr account), but I'll get them up and on show ASAP. Being simple kits I should be able to complete them in the allotted time...
  12. Deciding somebody needed to defend Britain against the Luft-46 menace, I present my take on the Revell Vampire: Untitled by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr Untitled by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr Untitled by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr Untitled by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr Untitled by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr Untitled by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr
  13. Hello! Here are a pair of Revell 1:72 Messerschmitt Bf 109G-10s which I finished two years ago. This kit turned out to be a disappointment. I had two boxings, one from the very first issue and one from later on. The first already had some flash and second was worse, both needing plenty of cleaning up. Fit of parts wasn't great either. Besides, the kit has some serious flaws. The modifications/additions I made on each kit were as follows: - The propeller was replaced by a Quickboost resin replacement part with the correct shape. - The kit comes with a short G-6-type tailwheel which is correct for early G-10s but not for both kits I was doing. Replaced by a Quickboost replacement long tailwheel. - The supercharger intake comes moulded solid and is somewhat oversized. Replaced by Quickboost replacement part. I had to make a new baseplate. - The head armour comes moulded solid. Made a new one with a partial clear section. - Added battery box to rear cockpit. - The dotted line on the engine covers are wrong and I used filler and paint to cover them - The big flaw is in the undercarriage bays. The kit has the wheel wells ending at the wing root when they should go further into the fuselage and this causes the undercarriage legs to be too far outboard. I managed to extend them. This required plenty of work which affected the wing root join. - I modified the wheel axles so that the wheels would be slanted outwards instead of sitting in the vertical position. When I first showed photos of these kits in G+, someone pointed out that I had missed the canvas covers of the insides of the wheel wells since I had left them in a metallic unpainted finish typical of late-war Bf 109s. Oh well, next time! Both kits were painted and varnished by brush. Firstly: 5/2105, ZNDH (Air Force of the Independent State of Croatia), Klagenfurt, Austria, 1945. Decals from a Blue Rider sheet. Of the two this is the one I am happiest about. The cockpit parts before assembly. The wheel wells. The top is the unmodified kit part and below my correction. Modified head armour. Added battery box. Quickboost supercharger intake with new baseplate. Secondly: White 4, II/JG7, Luftwaffe, northern Germany, at the end of 1944. This was one of the kit's options. Thanks for looking and, as always, all comments are welcome Miguel
  14. Bf109G-10 (Erla) set is intended for Revell 1/32 kit. The kit allows to solve major nose section shape problems such as slim, narrow appearance, incorrect spacing between MG troughs, strange “dent” under supercharger intake, oil cooler fairing shape and other small details visible on nose surface. Basic set RC3214 consist of four resin details and will be available also in bundle as RP3214 with our PE sets (exhaust pipes shrouds and steel oil cooler meshes). RC3214 parts list: Cowling for Bf109G-10 – 2 pieces Supercharger intake – 1 piece Oil cooler – 1 piece. RP3214 parts list: Cowling for Bf109G-10 – 2 pieces Supercharger intake – 1 piece Oil cooler – 1 piece PE parts fret – 2 piece.
  15. Ready for inspection is my 1:72 Avro Lancaster Bomber Mk.III, by Revell. It is a straight from the box build, the only change being that I used Vallejo acrylics throughout, and have build my own stand so the aircraft can be displayed in flight. The kit went together well, the sprues were nice and clean and for once I managed to join the fuselage halves without breaking into an angry sweat. So I would have to say this has been one of my favourite kits to build, and I hope I have done an icon justice. Thanks.
  16. This is my take on the Revell 1/50 scale Viking Ship. I know next to nothing about Norse Long Ships, but the model looks a lot to me like the 9th Century Gokstad ship displayed at the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo, Norway. The kit matches that graceful design pretty closely, right down to the hand made look of the clinker-constructed hull planks. After the quick hull assembly was a lot of less-than-exciting parts clean up: 64 shields, 32 oars, a two-part mast and numerous other assorted bits... but this really is a nicely designed kit. The dragon head, for example, is apparently inspired by a real one from the 5th Century – pretty cool: Plus, Revell’s molded-in wood grain detail is phenomenal! I gave the “wood” parts a Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow acrylic base coat, and the only color is the Tamiya XF-63 German Grey for the “iron” bits – shield bosses, figurehead mounts, and mast hardware. I let the paint cure for a couple of days, and then did a streaky wash with Grumbacher Raw Umber artist's oil to bring out the wood grain. It was very straightforward project, and with nearly everything the same wood color things went pretty fast. Except for the rolled facial tissue sail, everything on the model was right out of the box – a great relaxation build!
  17. Here's my GR-1A that I made from Revell's IDS kit. After market was Eduard PE, Seans wing seals and RAF pylons, Flightpath tanks and pods set and Xtradecal for both markings and stencils. My subject was ZA373 H from 2 squadron. Here's one or two of the shots I was using for reference... And after 9 months of grabbing whatever time I could at the weekends and evenings, here's the result... It's not perfect, but it's better than it would've been thanks to the contributions of some BMers who pointed out some noob mistakes on the WIP thread, so big thanks to all of them. Thanks for looking.
  18. As 2018 draws to a close, I thought I'd give you the 'heads-up' for the first aircraft build of 2019. Originally, I bought this kit with the intention of building an FB.5 and got a decal set for it. Me being the 'numpty, I had completely forgotten that I already had one two FB.5 kits in the stash, so this will be an OOB effort with some PE thrown in. The box. The PE. I'm not a nuts n' bolts man but is there anything drastically wrong with this kit as an F.3? Stuart
  19. Evening all, here is my recently completed F.3 Vampire from the Revell box. From the off, I decided that this would be built OOB and would be destined for the ceiling and the only addition to the kit was a pilot who got drafted from a nearby F-86. The kit went together well enough but modellers should be aware that the wing/ fuselage join needs some attention to mate correctly. Once mating had been achieved, the wing roots and intake fillets needed a PPP/ sanding routine. Once built, the 'bat' was primed with Halford's primer, coated with Tamiya Silver AS-12 and coated with Klear prior to decals. Finished with the markings of 601 Sqn, Royal Aux Air Force, North Weald, England, July '52. WiP here: Stuart
  20. Hello All, About a week and we can start! My contribution is based on the Revells 1/48 C-47 Skytrain "Berlin Airlift" (box 04518). I think it will be a British green c/s but nothing is decide yet. The boxview: The sprues The clearparts And finally the decalsheet Everyone good luck and happy buildings Arno
  21. I've been dithering about my options, and finally settled for this ... A meteorological reconnaissance B-17 Mk II of 251 Squadron, Coastal Command based in Reykjavík, Iceland.
  22. One of two builds that I completed over the weekend. This one had been sitting on the shelf of shame for a little while and was one of my entries for the KUTA GB in November. It has been brush painted with both enamels and acrylic paints and I used the Xtradecal RAF Update 2013 - 2015 set for the scheme. Eurofighter Typhoon FGR.4 ZK353/BQ, RAF 29(F) Squadron, RAF Coningsby flown by Flight Lieutenant Jonny Dowen by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr
  23. Arado Ar 196B Revell 1:32 The Arado 196 is probably one of the most well known of the Axis floatplanes, and it certainly was one of the best of its class. But it is the twin float version that most people know about as it was the most popular with around 537 aircraft built. The single float version, of which only a maximum of ten were built is, obviously not so well known. In October 1936, the RLM asked for a He 114 replacement. The only stipulations were that it would use the BMW 132, and they wanted prototypes in both twin-float and single-float configurations. Designs were received from Dornier, Gotha, Arado and Focke-Wulf. Heinkel declined to tender, contending that the He 114 could still be made to work. With the exception of the Arado low-wing monoplane design, all were conventional biplanes. That gave the Arado better performance than any of the others and the RLM ordered four prototypes. The RLM was also rather conservative by nature, so they also ordered two of the Focke-Wulf Fw 62 design as a backup. It quickly became clear that the Arado would work effectively, and only four prototypes of the Fw 62 were built. The Ar 196 prototypes were all delivered in summer 1937, V1 (which flew in May) and V2 with twin floats as A models, and V3 and V4 on a single float as B models. Both versions demonstrated excellent water handling and there seemed to be little to decide one over the other. Since there was a possibility of the smaller outrigger floats on the B models "digging in", the twin-float A model was ordered into production. A single additional prototype, V5, was produced in November 1938 to test final changes. In February 1938 an Ar 196 V4 carrying the registration D-OVMB and serial number 2592 was trialled as a test aircraft. The aircraft was fitted with a ventral float in which the fuel tank, two smoke dischargers as well as emergency provisions and additional ammunition was carried. The further in-service testing of the Ar 196 B was carried out during 1940-1941. The Model The kit comes in Revells usual slightly floppy end opening box which really should be redesigned. The box art is very attractive with and artists impression of the prototype V4 in its element. On opening the box you're faced with a raft of sprues. 13 in light grey styrene, and one in clear styrene. The package is completed by the instruction booklet and decal sheet. The majority of the kit is the same as the twin float variant released by Revell back in 2011, with only the floats being produced as new parts. There is a lot of work to do before the modeller can close up the fuselage, as the 196 had a ladder-like framework within the fuselage, which is visible through the cockpit aperture, a large hole in itself. Construction starts with the pilot's position, mated to the bulkhead between him and the observer, with radio equipment festooning the backside. The ladder sections have various parts added before they mate to the solid floor section, and detail throughout is good. The radio and instrument panel faces are suitably detailed for this larger scale, although there are doubtless wires and additional detail that could be added with the right references. It is worth noting that the rear cockpit seems to have been lined with sheet plywood or similar to stop the spent casings from the rear armament from finding their way into the workings of the aircraft. Check your references for confirmation if you can, and grab some thin styrene sheet cut to shape if you plan on replicating this. Once the cockpit and "chassis" is complete and painted, the engine compartment bulkhead attaches to the front, and you can begin adding the fuselage around it. The BMW radial engine isn't added until later in the build, but the detail and part count here is high. With careful painting and weathering it should build up into an excellent focal point of the model. The cowling is made up from a number of parts, allowing the modeller to leave part or all of it open to expose as much of the engine as they wish. There is also a choice of prop with a spinner or without, so check your references. The wings come in the traditional upper and lower halves, and have a rather sturdy looking spar arrangement sandwiched between the halves, plus a full set of poseable flying surfaces. You can choose here to pose the wings folded for stowage, unfolded ready for flight or with one wing folded one extended to show off the model's features without taking up too much display space. Care is needed here, as the construction of the wings differs considerably depending on which version you choose. Ploughing on without looking at the little black explanatory pictures could limit your choice later in the build. The tail, with one piece elevator is built as a single unit and slots into the rear of the fuselage later in the build along with the movable rudder. The large single main float is made up from five parts, the float halves, top deck and two internal bulkheads. The instructions call for 50g of weight to be placed in the nose of the float to prevent it from sitting on the rudder at the end of the float, although if you’re going to use the stand this problem is alleviated by the way the supports are moulded. The modeller is provided with optional rudders, either deployed or retracted. Whilst the four support struts look pretty rugged, they probably won’t take too much handling to break, unlike the much stronger supports in the earlier kit. There is a fairly clear rigging diagram to follow, and where Revell state to use cotton, the modeller can use whatever they are most comfortable with. The small outrigger floats are provided in two halves with three support struts, one of which is bifurcated and these are then attached to the lower wings and rigged as per the instructions, although this particular diagram is less clear and you may want to use your references instead. Also under the wings there are two hardpoints to which the cradles and small bombs are fixed The transparencies are clear & crisp, but the various parts are assembled from flat parts separate from the cockpit aperture, and here you could run into trouble if you either get the angles wrong, or use traditional cement and cloud the parts. It would be advisable to use a non-solvent glue like GS-Hypo Cement and build the parts in-situ to ensure you get the angles right to give a good join with the cockpit sills. Masking before building the assemblies could also be a good idea, to avoid cracking the joints with excessive handling. Decals The decal sheet includes markings for just the V4 prototype, D-OVMB, but does also have a fair number of stencils, plus the instrument panel. The red band and swastika are not included, only the white circle on which the swastika would be placed, so you’ll have to paint this area and use aftermarket decals if you wish to display this. The underside registration letters are large and will need some softening/setting solution to help bed down properly as although the carrier film is relatively thin. This goes for the side registration letter too. Conclusion Much like the earlier twin float kit, this is a beautiful model and will make a great companion piece with the two shown side by side. It certainly looks different, and yet familiar at the same time. I really like this aircraft and it’s great to have it released in this scale as it offers so much more in the way of detailing possibilities. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  24. YT-1300 Millennium Falcon Perfect Grade FruitPack (FP-03) 1:72 GreenStrawberry Bandai have had the license for all things styrene and Star Wars in the Far East since the reawakening of the franchise, and have produced some truly amazing snap-together kits that have more detail than many "proper" model kits, and these are now being licensed by Revell for wider distribution to us westerners. Their Perfect Grade Millennium Falcon is a tour-de-force in plastic engineering, offering a 1:72 dinner plate sized Millennium Falcon as it appears in the progenitor of the series, Star Wars A New Hope as it became known once it was joined by other entries in the original trilogy. GreenStrawberry are clearly SW fans, and have released a substantial number of sets for the various kits, including the big Falcon. Now they're offering the sets in a super-set, which gives you all three and offers a discount on the individual purchase price. If you're going to splash out on the big Falcon, you either go big or go home, so why not? The set arrives in a thick card envelope with the details on the front on a white sticker. Inside are the three individual sets in the usual GS themed dark grey, green and red, each with a header card, the Photo-Etch (PE), instructions and any ancillary parts hidden within a resealable clear foil envelope. The following sets are included: Exterior (06318-1/72) Contained on a single large fret, this set includes six double-layered grilles for the aft deck exhausts, plus detail parts for within the vents that can just be seen through the grilles. The two lateral docking bay tunnels have their vents augmented with new two-layer grilles, and the upper hatch that is used to retrieve Luke from under Cloud City on Bespin is given a new irising shutter, and two hand-holds to the sides. More vents and exhausts on these areas are also detailed with a covered fan and perforated panel beneath the grilles. On the margin between the cockpit glazing and tunnel, the prominent grating is replaced with a fine PE part; a curved part is added to the right mandible; the nav lights are drilled and given a surround on the tips of the mandibles and in the back of the space between them a pair of steering-wheel shaped parts replace the kit detail. Finally, the base of the dish is fitted with a new set of grab-handle shaped parts around its edges. Landing Gear (06418-1/72) Supplied on two sheets, this set replaces the styrene landing gear bay doors and those perforated "anklets" that each leg sports. It also includes bay door actuators, and details for inside the crew access ramp, plus a ceiling panel that is fitted after a hump inside that area is removed, and holes are drilled to accommodate the four pairs of ceiling lights in the panel. Cockpit & Gun Wells (06518-1/72) Consisting of a fret of PE plus a pre-printed self-adhesive representation of the rear of the cockpit, the upgrades begin with an overhead console attached to the canopy interior, with a number of those odd protractor-like controls you see Han and Chewie fiddling with, as well as more on the main console. The comfy front seats are given new PE tuck & roll panels in their centre, while the more Spartan rear seats are fitted with new details too. The rear bulkhead is a new PE part with a laminated door frame and a door fitted behind, plus the stick-on pre-printed detail for your use if you see fit. The bulkhead part is then attached to the rear of the cockpit area before it is inserted in the hull. The gun emplacements are given a fairly comprehensive refit, removing the seats from their inaccurate mountings and retaining the upper half, then putting a new four-part floor in the well, a raised gantry for the seat, which uses the previously removed seat base to prop it clear of the floor; new controls for the guns; cushion detail for the seat; foot pedals and control box below the controls; a hatch ring; access ladder disappearing into the ship; other controls on the wall and ceiling, and new ceiling panel insert to finish off the area. Conclusion Lots of goodies here for the detailer that takes an amazing kit and makes it even more amazing without any serious hacking away at the styrene, with a healthy discount on buying them separately thrown in for good measure. Review sample courtesy of
  25. Apart from the wheels, which I used the hobby design M3 dtm wheel set, it's stock. A pretty nice kit and fun to build.
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