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Found 1,729 results

  1. Harrier GR.1 50 Years (05690) 1:32 Revell The Harrier began life as a Hawker Siddeley product, and was the first aircraft capable of Short/Vertical Take-Off and Landing (S/VTOL) to reach service, and until its eventual replacement the F-35 Lightning II began flying it was pretty much the only aircraft that was actually capable of carrying out the task it was designed for, although the Harrier was very good at its job unlike other pretenders. We’re excluding rotary wing aircraft just in case the pedant in you was awakening. The GR.1 was the first to reach service with RAF and as the AV-8A in US Marine service as a close air support and reconnaissance aircraft, becoming a favourite with pilots despite the relatively high workload imposed on them by the complex controls necessary to maintain attitude and attitude at slower speeds – long before computers were really good enough and available to assist stability at sizes that could be carried by an aircraft. It was replaced by the GR.3 with the Ferranti LRMTS in an extended nose that gave it a funny look (is that blasphemy?). The Harrier II eventually replaced it with composite components and a much improved capability. The Kit This is an old kit – let’s get that out of the way at the beginning. It has raised panel lines as you would expect from its mid-70s heritage, and the detail is also what you’d expect with a pilot figure that is kind of funny-looking to put it politely, although he’s quite photogenic he just seems a bit… wide, especially given the cramped cockpit of a Harrier. The box is a top-opening affair with a nice digital painting of the aircraft on the front, and a golden 50 years strapline below the title, plus a picture of the paints, glue and brush included in this model set. If you’re a “serious” modeller, you’ll probably just toss these in the back of the drawer and keep the brush for weathering or something similarly lacking the requirement for a sharp point. Inside the box are five sprues in Revell’s trademark green/grey styrene, plus a clear canopy, a modest-sized decal sheet and instruction booklet that includes the separate health warnings sheet that is bin fodder for most of us. You’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all, and when has a modeller ever skewered themselves with a scalpel? Preposterous! What to say about the detail? It’s adequate and can be upgraded easily enough either by adding scratch-built parts or by obtaining aftermarket, although the majority of sets available in this scale seem to be for the later Trumpeter kits of the AV-8B or Harrier II. If you want an earlier Harrier in this scale however, it’s pretty much the only game in town in injection moulded styrene so you’ll be looking at this kit whether you want to or not. The raised panel lines are restrained and with a decent scriber you could re-scribe the airframe if you are minded to, which is best done before you begin the build. Construction begins with the internal mechanism that allows the exhaust nozzles to operate in unison when completed, with two axles and two control arms clipped together without glue. These are then hidden within the two engine halves that are split into top and bottom, joined by a set of ancillary parts that fit to the top and a two-part intake and engine face that is visible from outside. The curiously broad pilot is next, and he has a front and back part with detailed painting guide pointed out as you go, which is also the case for the simple cockpit floor, ejection seat with moulded-in belts and separate headrest, plus decals for the side consoles. The instrument panel also has a decal, which is a good thing as it’s otherwise devoid of any detail whatsoever. A control column, rudder pedals and the pilot (if you want him) finish off the cockpit, then the canopy is made up from clear glazing, a styrene frame and square block underneath to secure it in the track before you close the model up. To us modern modeller that seems a strange thing to do, but if you paint the canopy and cockpit rear deck beforehand, it should work out with some tape stuck to the clear parts to protect them from paint. The cockpit, engine and rear air-brake bay are glued into the starboard side, then the canopy is trapped in place when the fuselage is closed up around it. The four exhaust nozzles are made up from top and bottom halves trapping two vertical vanes in place in their grooves with a little glue. They’re simple parts, but with some effort can be made more realistic with good references of the correct type and a little putty, styrene or foil. With the fuselage closed up the intake lips are fitted, with a lightly recessed set of blow-in doors depicted on the outside with the option of cutting the top ones out and replacing them with dropped ones that obey the laws of gravity like the real thing. There are a ton of references out there to help you, or you can just leave them be and enjoy some retro-modelling with a heavy dose of nostalgia for me as I built this kit as a youngster and it ended up hung from my ceiling by a few pieces of cotton and a drawing pin. The nozzles are attached to their axle-stubs next, taking care with the glue so they remain moveable, and there are a pair of ribbed heat-protection plates behind the rear nozzles, which are known as the hot nozzles. The wings are simple affairs with a soft approximation of the vortex generators on the upper surface, although if you’re a detailer you’ll need to replace them with some more sharp in-scale parts. The wings are fitted to the fuselage on each side by the usual tab and slot, and each one has a pronounced anhedral like the real thing, and a pair of clear lenses for the wingtip lights. The cockpit coaming and windscreen are also fitted at this stage, and as with the canopy they’re a product of their time, slightly thick and with some mild distortion visible. The tail fin is two parts, as are the elevators although the swash-plates are moulded into the fuselage so moving them from the neutral position would require some surgery. Adding the rear pen-nib fairing with integral puffer jets over the boat-like tail strake finishes off the main airframe, with only the wheels, nose cone, air-brake and weapons left to do. The Harrier has bicycle undercarriage with a single wheel at the nose and dual wheel at the rear. The nose leg is split vertically and traps the two-part wheel in place, with the rear wheel also made of two parts but with the three-part wheels fitted into the stub axles at each side. You can add either two belly strakes to the underside or the two gun packs, as the Harrier needed one or the other to reduce the jetwash wrapping round under the fuselage and reducing lift enough to make it an issue. The outrigger wheels that stop the aircraft from keeling over are next, and again the two-part wheel is trapped between the two-part leg, then fitted into their wells with the curved bay door finishing off at the front. It’s worth mentioning that you can also build your Harrier with the wheels up by omitting the legs and wheels and using different outrigger parts. Now for some stores. Whilst you’re not spoiled for choice due to both the kit’s age and the fact that it’s an early version of the Harrier, you do get enough to fill the wing stations and don’t forget you’ve also had the choice of two gun pods for the underside of the fuselage. On the inner stations there are a pair of additional fuel tanks, which are made from two halves plus an insert for the tail fins and moulded-in pylons. On the outer station are a pair of Matra rocket pods with their pylons moulded in, all of which slot into the underside of the wings on tabs. While your Harrier is on its back, you fit a couple of antennae, a clear nav light, and the air brake with its large retraction jack that fits onto the bay you installed earlier. Flipping the model back over, the two bunny-ear intakes behind the cockpit are added, the nose cone and pitot are popped into the nose cavity, and another clear nav light fits into the spine of the fuselage. The last act is to drop the cover over the engine that allows the viewer a peek inside if you lay off the glue. Markings There are two decal options provided on the sheet, and it’s nostalgia time again with grey/green camouflage over light blue and big bright roundels under the wing, just like the diecast Harrier I had as a kid. There are some scrap diagrams showing the stores and their stencils, with their locations shown as dotted lines on the main drawings so that they don’t obscure the view of the roundels and codes. From the box you can build one of the following: No.3 Squadron, RAF, Wildenrath, Germany, August 1974 No.20 Squadron, RAF, Wildenrath, Germany, August 1971 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The instrument panel decals don’t have a coloured background, so you’ll need to paint the panels a background colour before use. Conclusion It’s an old kit but it checks out. If you set your expectations accordingly and either leave out the pilot or replace him with something a little more realistic, a decent model can result. Sadly, the kit I built as a kid went to landfill many years ago but its nice to see it again. Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  2. Here is my finished Boeing 777-236(ER) which has been converted using the Revell B777-300(ER) kit. I opted for the British Airways livery and G-VIIB as it was a regular site for me when I used to work at LGW. I have converted this kit, and a full WIP can be found by following the link which is below. This was my first attempt at a conversion and when I had made the cuts and ended up with 3 pieces of fuselage I found it hard to imagine an end result. I followed some excellent advice given to me and persevered with it. The Revell kit is a nice build and goes together really well. The engines are the GE90-94s from BraZ as are the wingtips. The decals are from RichW and they have gone on brilliantly as well as the AA windows. The paints used were Revell 04 White Gloss for the upper fuselage (I opted for this due to an issue with spraying), Halfords Fiat Capri Blue for the lower fuselage and nacelles, Halfords Racking Grey for the wings and Revell 374 for the coroguard. The metals and greys are mix of Revell Aqua colours. This was my first time really masking off a demarcation line, although in principal it seems easy enough, but I’m too set on wanting it perfect. I used Tamiya flex tape for the tapered ends and thicker Tamiya tape for the straight sections. I think it has turned out ok. I studied several photos of BA’s 777 wings and I found they were all particularly dirty, especially the trailing ends and had an unusual light grey contamination on the upper surfaces. I have tried to replicate this effect on this model. The decals were easy to work with, with each one requiring cutting individually. The authentic airlines decals help to bring it to life. I have enjoyed this build, and it has encouraged me to do more conversions. In fact I am planning a B737-700 and B777-200(ER) in United and BA Landor respectively this year. Thank you for looking and as always any comments and feedback are greatly appreciated. Regards, Alistair
  3. Since I'm new here, I thought I would dig out some old builds of mine to share. I wanted it to be a simple out-of-the-box build, but that changed when I saw the body that was in the box. As far as I can tell, it was based on a prototype road car that was never produced. There are several differences between the kit's body, and the actual car. When Revell released a kit of the C5-R of the 2001 Daytona 24 hour race, I thought I could use that body for the LeMans car, because I prefer the yellow/white scheme better than the all-yellow scheme. Needless to say, that ended up not working either. I ended up using the front and rear of the Daytona kit, cut and spliced onto the Lemans center section (with some scoop modification). Also, the LeMans kit had terrible Revell decals, but the Daytona kit had very nice Cartograph decals, so I used those wherever possible. Anyway, enough talk, on to some photos... Cheers, Corbin
  4. Hello fellow modellers. This is another in my theme of aircraft I have flown in. I have had the good fortune to have a number of flights in Twotters around the north and west of Scotland, and elsewhere. For this example I have chosen to depict a Loganair example. Whilst basically an oob build I added an interior using the Valom DSV06 Interior Set for the Scottish Aviation Twin Pioneer. The decals are the 26 Decals STS7203 set. I also wanted the screen to look a bit more like the real thing so hacked it about a bit and bent a bit of clear plastic to fill the gap. The build was a bit of a challenge and a number of time I nearly gave up. The first problem I had was continually pushing the windows in when I handled the fuselage. I eventually had to split the model to recover the windows but as I had messed up the paint that was an opportunity to strip and repaint the model. The decals were also a challenge with the large red stripe cracking at the slightest touch. I eventually gave up, masked it up and painted the red. The finished model is ok from a couple of feet away, but doesn't stand up to close scrutiny. I should be able to do a lot better, but I am happy with it and it reminds me of Loganair from a few years ago. Thanks for looking. Graeme The following pictures try to depict the Twin Otter at the iconic airport on the beach at North Bay, Barra. I haven't flown into Barra but it must be some experience.
  5. Few months ago, i started to built this seaplane, one of my favorite. I used all Eduard photoetch kits. Arado 196 B-0: Pre-series with central float, 5 aircrafts delivered at the end of 1938 for evaluation by coastal reconnaissance units, 10 in total built. I began by the BMW engine. Wiki: The BMW 132 is a radial aircraft engine, which was produced by BMW from 1933 onwards. It was the German version of the American Pratt & Whitney R-1690 Hornet. On January 3, 1928, BMW bought the manufacturing license for the Pratt & Whitney nine-cylinder air-cooled radial engine. The manufacture started with an almost unchanged version, called BMW Hornet. Soon, BMW began to develop its own version. The result was the BMW 132, an improved version whose production began in 1933. It was built in many different versions. In addition to the carburettor versions used mainly in civil aviation, versions with direct fuel injection were produced for the air force created by the National Socialist regime, the Luftwaffe. The BMW 132 was widely used to power transport aircraft. Thus, it was the main engine of the Junkers Ju 52 for most of its career, making the BMW 132 one of the most important engines for civil aircraft during the 1930s. Many aeronautical feats were accomplished with the BMW 132. The most impressive performance was the first direct flight between Berlin and New York, made on August 10, 1938 by a four-engine Focke-Wulf Fw 200 S-1 Condor. This aircraft linked the two cities in 24 hours and 57 minutes non-stop. Aircraft equipped with this engine: Arado Ar 196 Arado Ar 197 Blohm & Voss Ha 137 Blohm & Voss Ha 140 Blohm & Voss BV 142 Dornier Do 17P Fieseler Fi 98 Focke-Wulf Fw 62 Focke-Wulf Fw 200 Condor Gotha Go 244 Heinkel He 114 Heinkel He 115 Henschel Hs 123 Henschel Hs 124 Junkers Ju 160 Junkers Ju 52 Junkers Ju 90 Junkers W 34
  6. Hello guys, I present to all of you my most recently finished model. It's the latest incarnation of Revell's excellent Horten Ho 229 in 1:72. There're two decal options provided and the option to have the aircraft on an in-flight position. Here are the photos:
  7. After successfully completing my first Spitfire in 1:72, I decided to start working on my second Horten 229 from Revell. The kit will be painted in the box scheme of RLM 74/75/76 with yellow nose. Obligatory box and sprue photos:
  8. I finished this late last year, but haven't been able to publish it until now. What a kit for 20 years old. Absolutely fantastic from Revell. I only added resin seats in the cockpit and a couple of extras for the cargo area.
  9. Wtf? Two identical sprues? Very detailed panels,seats and cockpit area! Detailed exhaust and pipes! Seam Line Great decals Great panel lines Other...
  10. So, I have the very promising looking Vampire Mk. 3 from Revell (rebox of the Special Hobby kit) that I want to build as a Rhodesian plane with the Bush War camo pattern. My questions; - Do I need to convert some areas to get the correct type? I know very little of the external differences between Vampires.. - What are the best colour matches? I myself mostly use Vallejo or Revell paints. I don't know if standard Dark Earth/Dark Green are the correct colours. In some pictures the DE seems yellowish, in others it seems more reddish. Thanks in advance, Luka
  11. Aircraft Model Stands (03800) Revell Once upon a time most models included a clear plastic stand for the modeller to pose their latest creation in the in-flight attitude, which is quite tempting for those that aren’t keen on detailing wheel bays or leaving cockpits open, or just fancy a quicker project. Along the way this tradition went away, as the companies must have realised that many of the stands were going unused, particularly in more detailed and larger kits that were more likely to be built by the serious modeller. Time marches on and almost no modern toolings have stands included, which is fine until you want an in-flight model. Now you can grab a simple aftermarket pack of three stands that will help you expand your in-flight collection, making it easy to pack more models into your otherwise crowded cabinet. The set arrives in a printed foil package that is releasable and shows a graphic representation on the front and the scales 1:72, 1:48 and 1:144 written small on the front, which is replicated on the extra foil bag on the inside. Inside that bag is a single clear sprue that has all the parts on it, and on the little sprue tab you can still see the ICM logo on the reverse, which is the source of the parts. if you didn’t know, Revell rebox a number of ICM products and as they have a pretty good distribution network it’s probably an easy way to pick up ICM kits for some. Each stand is almost identical in every way apart from size, comprising two parts that join together to form a traditional stand that simply requires you to make a small hole in the underside of your model, with a size guide printed on the back of the packet, which if you’ve already binned I’ll helpfully repeat for you (and me, as I’m prone to chucking things out too). Small (1:144) 2.0 x 0.6mm Medium (1:72) 2.8 x 0.8mm Large (1:48) 3.5 x 1.2mm The styrene is clear with a frosted finish that shows through a quartet of ejector pin marks in the corners of the base. They’re slightly recessed into the underside, so might be hard to obliterate if that bothers you, and one way round that is to paint the base and leave the arm clear to minimise its impact. Conclusion Handy to loft your latest creation over the rest of your cabinet contents, and squeeze a few more in if you have limited space. The little lug on the end of the arms should also allow you to move your model without losing the stand if you don’t oversize the hole. Measure twice, cut once, and if you’re like me scrape it a bit more until it fits snugly. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  12. U Boat Type VII C/41 Platinum Edition 1:72 Revell The Type VII submarine was based on earlier German designs. This type would go onto become the most used German submarines of WWII with over 700 being built. As with anything there would be many modifications along the way. The type started as the V11A with an initial 10 being built. The type VIIC would become the main boat of the German Navy with 568 being built between 1940 and 1945. With a range of 8500 nautical miles. The boats had 4 forward, and one stern tube in general (there were a few exceptions) with 14 torpedoes being carried. For surface running and battery charging a pair of supercharged 6 cylinder 4 stroke diesel engines were used which gave a top speed of 17.7 knots. A maximum submerged speed of 7.6 knots was possible with a new fully charged battery. The submarines generally carried a crew of 44 to 52 men in what can best be described as "cramped" conditions. For anyone familiar with the original "Das Boot" mini series U-96 was a Type VIIC. The Kit This boxing is a re-release of Revell's new tooling from 2003 which was released again in 2006. This new boxing is a Platinum edition, It contains all of the original plastic, two large sheets of photo etch, self adhesive wooden decks; and metal parts for the Periscopes (extended & retracted), snorkel mast, radar mast, nav lights, ensign staff, boom support, & gun barrels. such is the large number of these additional parts that a complete separate instruction book is provided for them. Construction begins with the torpedo tube, the modeller must decide whether to have them open or shut and then fit the respective parts into the hull sections. Once this is don't two internal bulkheads for strength are added in and the left/right hull sections can be joined. The stand can then be made up and the hull placed on it. Construction now moves to the stern and the details for the propeller shafts, propellers and supporting structure are added. Once these are on the stern planes and twin rudders can be added. Switching back to the bow, the bow planes are added along with the anchor and protective guides for the bow planes. Next the snorkel is made up, This part is moveable so care must be taken to follow the instructions if you want it to work. The snorkel is fitted into the appropriate deck section, and all the main deck sections can be added to the hull. Work now switches to the conning tower of the sub. The search and attack periscopes are made up installed into the decking along with the tower hatch, The upper tower deck and the lower one are then added into the tower superstructure. Radio masts and other item are then added in also. The deck extension for the anti aircraft gun is then added as well. The single 3.7cm flack gun can then be built up and added. Two additional twin barrelled 20mm Zwilling Anti aircraft guns are then made up and fitted to the tower decking as well. Once these are on various deck fittings, ladders and the railings are added. Finally the ensign staff can be added. The coning tower can then be added to the main hull. Thread is provided for the one forward and to aft wires from the conning tower along with the blocks for securing it. The hull is then finished of with a variety of smaller fittings. Platinum Edition As mentioned this is Revell's Platinum Edition which features two large sheets of photo etch, self adhesive wooden decks; and metal parts for the Periscopes (extended & retracted), snorkel mast, radar mast, nav lights, ensign staff, boom support, & gun barrels. such is the large number of these additional parts that a complete separate instruction book is provided for them and this must be read in conjunction with the main booklet. As expected there are many parts here and I suspect not for the beginner. The many fittings which will replace moulded on detail will look good on the model. The guns also benefit from many detail parts and metal barrels. All the railing will look much better in etch rather than plastic. Markings There are decals for U 997, U 995, U 295, U 324, U 307, U 1023, U 1002, U 1105 included on the sheet with diagrams to show the different paint schemes on individual boats as well as small histories of them. Conclusion It's good to see this kit re-issued as it makes up into an impressive model. The addition of the platinum parts should make a big difference over the kit plastic. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  13. Really nice kit and perfect decal as you can see.A little trouble in cockpit fitting,hatch door is 0.5mm wider.The rest of the kit is fine.
  14. This is the first finish of 2020, a Revell 1/72 Tornado GR1 finished in 1998 17 Sqn colours from Bruggen. Built OOB except for the ubiquitous PJ Productions resin crew mates. Painted with Hataka modern RAF paints. The decals are the stock ones and didn't want to sit very well even on a very glossy surface and with lashings of microsol/microset. However not too displeased with the finished result Base is made from a beechwood kitchen draw front.
  15. Revell´s Ho 229 was my firts decalled model, it´s nice to have build a new one after so much time. I don´t remember my first Ho 229 having such a bad fit on the canopy though.
  16. I had this one haunting the shelf of doom for some time and decided to get it finished. It is the Revell FW-200B in 1/72. Far from perfect with a lot of self induced paint issues I couldn't decide on a scheme until last week, so here it is, and you may have guessed a bit of a What-If
  17. So, after quite a few ups and down and some shocking fit issues and terrible instructions here is my tribute to the loss of a modern legend. The kit is the Revell 1/48 GR4 with Eduard cockpit and UK RBF tags, CMK seats, Master pitot tubes and Scratch built TARDIS display and AIM-132 asraams. Also a shout out to Pete Tasker who provided me with some stunning shots of her on her last low level sortie through the lakes as a reference! edit_C2A1086 by Rob Jones, on Flickr edit_C2A1079 by Rob Jones, on Flickr edit_C2A1064 by Rob Jones, on Flickr edit_C2A1065 by Rob Jones, on Flickr edit_C2A1066 by Rob Jones, on Flickr edit_C2A1074 by Rob Jones, on Flickr edit_C2A1076 by Rob Jones, on Flickr
  18. My son found this languishing in the back of a drawer. It was constructed, of sorts, but painting had not been started and the decal sheet was lost. I re-glued the seams and painted it in a scheme from the Print Scale 144-011 decal sheet. I have not built a combat aircraft in 1/144 before, and I don't think that I will again. Too fiddly for my big fingers and aging eyesight. Only four pics. The colours have not reproduced very well in the images. Thanks for looking. Graeme
  19. Vought F4U-1A Corsair 1:72 Revell The legendary Chance Vought Corsair was one of the most effective combat aircraft to see service during the Second World War. Famous for its 11:1 kill ratio in the hands of US Navy pilots, the Corsair was also notable for achieving a longer production run than any other piston-engined fighter in US history. For best performance, the Corsair was given the largest engine then available: the Pratt & Whitney Double Wasp. This 18-cylinder, 46 litre monster drove a huge three-bladed prop that was almost 14 feet across. In order to ensure the prop didn't strike the ground on take-off or landing, the wings had to be given their characteristic inverted gull shape. Initial trials of the aircraft revealed an unpleasant stall characteristic that would lead to one wing dropping suddenly. This had to be fixed with a small root mounted stall strip. The set-back cockpit, required due to the fuel tanks fitted in the forward fuselage, gave poor forward visibility on landing and take-off, with oil from the engine further obscuring the view. The top cowling flaps were replaced with a fixed panel, and the landing gear struts re-tuned, but this delayed its use as a carrier borne fighter until 1944. Despite these set-backs, the Corsair was used successfully as a land-based fighter and was used in large numbers by the US Marines. A number of aces got their kills in the Corsair, and many Japanese pilots considered it to be the most capable US-built fighter of the War. Due to its excellent low-level performance, the Corsair was also used for ground attack, firing unguided rockets and bombs from its wing pylons. The Royal Navy also used the Corsair from 1943, and despite its unforgiving deck handling characteristics it found favour with pilots. After WWII it went on to serve in many conflicts, with the production line finally closing in 1953, more than 10 years after it opened. As a testament to its longevity and usefulness, some foreign operators still had Corsairs in service in the 1970s. I think Revell's new Corsair is the first all-new 1:72 Aircraft from the home of the end-opening box since the Ju-88 hit the shelves a couple of years ago. Inside the small blue box are four sprues of white plastic, a single sprue of clear parts and the usual decal sheet and instructions. The colour of the plastic will be off-putting for some, but you can't deny that Revell have a rich history of using any colour other than grey if they can get away with it. If only they applied the same policy to the printing of their instruction books! Notwithstanding the dazzling albedo of the plastic, the parts are crisply moulded with very fine, engraved panel lines and plenty of detail. In common with other recent kits from Revell, there are tiny touches of flash here and there, but nothing too much to worry about. The layout of the sprues suggests that this kit has been designed to allow a number of different versions to be squeezed from the basic moulds. Although I dont know which other versions Revell are planning at this point in time, a birdcage canopy and an FAA clipped wing version are both possibilities. As usual, construction starts with the cockpit, where things get off to a good, well-detailed start. evell have laid on a real treat here. No fewer than ten parts make up this sub-assembly and each one is beautifully moulded. Detail on parts such as the side consoles and instrument panel is exquisite. The control column and rudder pedals are also nicely represented, as is the pilot's seat. A set of decals is provided to represent the seat harnesses too. The breakdown of the fuselage is quite complex, so a little care will have to be taken to make sure that everything lines up nicely and there arent any unsightly gaps or smudges of glue to spoil things. The wings are also quite complex, with separately moulded wingtips and fairings for the .50 cal machine guns and the supercharger intercooler intakes. The lower wing is moulded as a single span though, so achieving the characteristic anhedral angle won't be a problem. Landing flaps and ailerons are moulded as part of the upper wing. The tail planes and elevators are moulded as solid parts too, while the rudder is moulded separately. The engine is very nicely represented, with the two rows of cylinders moulded separately for maximum detail. The hydraulically operated cowling can be fitted in closed or open positions too. The fixed parts of the cowling have been moulded in three parts, which adds to the complexity but allows for a higher degree of accuracy. The exhaust pipes are also moulded separately, and although they look rather excellent for injection moulded items, I'm sure some even more excellent resin replacements will be available at some point. Once the major parts of the airframe have been assembled, attention turns to the undercarriage. The detail-fest continues here, with structures moulded into both the main and tail landing gear bays and complex and accurate landing gear legs. The inner hubs are moulded separately to the tyres, which means the spoked wheels have accurate depth (as well as being a little bit easier to paint). The landing gear bay doors are paper-thin, with nice moulded detail on the inner surfaces. They are moulded in the closed position, which is great if you want to build your model gear-up, but must be split if you wish to build it gear-down. Underwing ordnance is limited to a couple of drop tanks. The transparent parts are thin and clear, but there is a fair bit of distortion present. I've seen a lot worse in this scale, but I've also seen better (including from Revell themselves) Marking options are included for two aircraft: Vought F4U-1A Corsair, VMF-214 Squadron, US Marine Corps, Vella Lavella, Solomon Islands, December 1943; and Vought F4U-1A Corsair, VMF-17 Squadron, US Navy, Bougainville, Solomon Islands, February 1944; and The decals themselves have been produced to a high standard. They appear to be perfectly in register, detail is very sharp and they look nice and thin on the sheet. A selection of stencils is included too. Conclusion Although we already have a number of decent kits of the Corsair available in this scale, this is still a very welcome kit. It has been produced to a high standard, and although the breakdown of parts is fairly complex, it should be possible to build a very detailed kit straight from the box. The kit has clearly been designed to allow other variants to be produced from the same basic sprues, and hopefully it won't be long before we see one or more of these appear. Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  20. Phantom FG1 XV586 was delivered to the Fleet Air Arm in June 1969, serving with 892 NAS aboard Ark Royal until its transfer to the RAF in December 1978. It flew with the famous 'Fighting Cocks' throughout its RAF service, being repainted in light grey in March 1986 following repairs after the nosewheel collapsed. Built mostly oob, although I used Hypersonic slotted tailplanes from 48ers.com and Xtradecals for the 43 Sqn checks and tail badge. Also massive thanks to @iainpeden for donating the serial numbers! I like this Revell kit, it makes a nice Phantom. I'll probably attempt another grey one at some point, possibly an XT serialled 29 Sqn jet. It's tempting to have about ten! All comments welcome ...
  21. Panavia Tornado Wheel Set (3230) 1:32 Halberd Models Halberd Models’ recent flexible resin tyre sets require a slightly different method of construction to standard resin wheels, so I’ll refer you back to my initial review in 2019 here, which explains the process and design ethos in more detail. It also has a link to a video that shows the process fully, so if you’re unsure about how to use flexible resin tyres it’s worth a read. The assemblies are a drop-in replacement for the kit parts, so they should glue straight onto the landing gear axles, but it's always wise to test and adjust as necessary, as you'll be using either epoxy or super-glue to attach them because resin doesn't adhere with styrene glue. The tyres will deform slightly under weight, just enough to give them a more realistic look, but not so much that they'll look in dire need of more air before the next mission. This set is designed for the big Revell kit, which has been re-released more than a few times under different marks, but the wheels shouldn’t differ so only one set is needed. Arriving in the by now familiar box, there are ten resin hub parts on two casting blocks, plus four tyres – two larger main and two nose wheels. Construction involves liberating the resin from their undercut base either with a razor saw or motor tool, then cutting the spoked centres out of the tyres and smoothing the inner face with a burr chucked into a motor tool. Each main wheel has a thick rear part with brake-detail added inside the rim, and a thinner front hub face, while the two nose wheels each have two hub parts as you’d expect. They’re best glued with super glue (CA), and the wheels can be painted with latex based acrylic paints if necessary. Detail is excellent both on the hubs and tyres, and with sympathetic painting they should far outstrip that of the kit parts. Highly recommended. They’re currently being sold direct to customers via their Facebook page and through their distributors worldwide. Review sample courtesy of
  22. Hi everybody; here's my new project, the 1/72 Revell Eurofighter Typhoon This type entered into Italian Air Force service (AMI, Aeronautica Militare Italiana) in 2004, and it's currently deployed in three different bases: Grosseto (4° Stormo), Gioia del Colle (36° Stormo) and Trapani Birgi (37° Stormo). The kit supplied decals allow to build six different versions: two Germans, one Austrian, one British, one Spanish and one Italian, which is the one I'm doing. Typical Revell instruction sheet, with basically useless color table - it only refers to Revell paints The airframe I'm going to reproduce and the sprues (there's many of them ) The clear parts: the windshield shows some bubbles While the canopy has an annoying moulding seam going all along mid-line I'm planning to use the AM cockpit set from PAVLA More later, now I need to take care of my lawn. Ciao
  23. Bf109G-10 (Erla) set is intended for Revell 1/32 kit. The kit allows to solve major nose section shape problems such as slim, narrow appearance, incorrect spacing between MG troughs, strange “dent” under supercharger intake, oil cooler fairing shape and other small details visible on nose surface. Basic set RC3214 consist of four resin details and will be available also in bundle as RP3214 with our PE sets (exhaust pipes shrouds and steel oil cooler meshes). RC3214 parts list: Cowling for Bf109G-10 – 2 pieces Supercharger intake – 1 piece Oil cooler – 1 piece. RP3214 parts list: Cowling for Bf109G-10 – 2 pieces Supercharger intake – 1 piece Oil cooler – 1 piece PE parts fret – 2 piece.
  24. I'm going to attempt to make the second of the three of these in my stash as an FG1. The only major issue is those slotted tailplanes, but I'll worry about those later. It might be a case of cutting into them, or just leaving them and pretend slats aren't a thing on FG1s! However, I'll do my best on the rest of it, including these extra decals I bought especially a while ago (before I came on here and learned of those damned slats!). So she'll be camo, and my usual everything hanging out and down or open, regardless of the realities of hydraulics, etc, just because I think they look cooler like that. The box, familiar to millions: Extra decals! I'll need to add the red/blue roundel over the red/white/blue as I'm doing her to represent the early 80s colours. Furniture assembled and painted. Added my usual masking tape straps. I'd forgotten that Revell didn't include cockpit decals. Ok for some of you on here with your fancy painting skills, but I need decals! Did my best with a black biro anyway.
  25. Bell OH-58 Kiowa (03871) 1:35 Revell Based upon the successful Bell 206A Jetranger civilian helicopter, the Kiowa was an observation and fire support helo made for the US Army that served from the late 60s until 2017 when it was replaced by the much more attack focused AH-64 Apache. It was also used by some foreign operators, some of which are still in service. Its role began as a scout helo, but through successive upgrades the focus expanded to a more combative remit. The OH-58D was the variant that introduced a more powerful engine with a four-bladed rotor that was much quieter than the old 2-bladed unit, and this was topped by the new Mast Mounted Sight (MMS) that allowed the operator to sneak a peak over terrain without exposing the entire aircraft to enemy fire. The cockpit was also updated with Multi-Functional Displays (MFDs), although the old analogue instruments were retained for backup purposes. Later upgrades added two hardpoints for weapons carriage, one on each side of the airframe that could be fitted with modular Hellfire racks, .50cal machineguns, rocket pods or Stinger missiles. This is referred to as a Kiowa Warrior and has an unofficial designation of AH-58D. An upgrade programme was begun for the successor F model with substantial sensor and avionics upgrades, but this was cancelled in 2017 as the Army was trying to reduce the number of types in service in order to save costs. The Kit This is a re-release of a reboxed MRC/Academy tooling that dates from around 1995, and the MRC logo is still to be found on the sprues. Despite its age the detail is good, and the tooling hasn’t suffered from any noticeable wear over the years either. The kit arrives in the usual Revell end-opening box (yay!) and has a painting of a Desert Storm airframe passing over an Allied convoy near a town. Inside the box are four sprues in a greenish grey styrene, a clear sprue, a black flexible part for the gun pod, large decal sheet and instruction booklet with colour painting guide on the rear pages. Construction begins predictably with the cockpit with dual controls for the pilots, and showing the upgraded glass screens of the improved instruments. They both have rudder pedals, collective and cyclic sticks, with a decal for the instrument panel and centre console, plus a large equipment rack directly behind their seats that makes other helicopters look spacious. There are a couple of pilot figures included, and they’re made up from separate legs, torsos, arms and heads, with different poses for each of them and their hands on the controls. This should allow you some leeway to customise them as you see fit. The engine compartment is also built up with a number of parts portraying the basics, but as always with these things there will be more needed if you’re going to go for accuracy. With the two main internal assemblies complete, the fuselage will need painting with colours suggested in the instructions, after which you can close the fuselage, remembering to drill the holes for the additional sensors carried by the KFOR decal option. Doors for the crew and equipment access are added next with clear parts provided for the crew, and more holes for sensors needed for the KFOR option, then the main canopy is painted internally, has a centre roof console added, and is fixed in place with some suitable glue to enclose the cockpit. The clear roof panels will need to be tinted with a green shade beforehand, but that’s easily done with some clear green acrylic. The last glazed panel is the lower ground-view windows under the nose with a decal added at the front. Inside the fuselage are access panels to more equipment racks on the port side, which can be left open or closed, and the engine compartments that can be propped open using the supplied stays, and at this stage the skids are also added to the underside and the stabilising winglets are applied to the tail boom around the half way mark. The tail fin, two-blade tail rotor, IR detection turret, various antennae, cable cutters, lights and probes are fitted around the airframe, plus the sensors previously drilled out for the KFOR option if appropriate, then the rotor is made up. This begins with the rotor-head, which has a pass-through axle, actuators for pitch control, vibration reduction, then the four blades, on top of which the MMS with two clear lenses is fitted on a tapered base. With the majority of the airframe complete if not assembled, the weapons pods are begun, starting with the mounting brackets that take up a good number of parts for each side. Two twin launch rails are constructed with four hellfire missiles that have clear seeker heads, and the .50cal machinegun with its framework pod and large ammo canister are also built. Both options are shown on the port station, with the ammo box mounted on the side of the airframe and linked to the gun by the black flexible ammo guide. With these in place the rotor and MMS are installed to complete the build. Markings There are two decal options in the box with different schemes. The Desert Storm option is of course painted in Sand with the inverted V worn by Allied forces on each side, plus a Knight chess piece on the side doors. The KFOR option is painted Bronze Green with a white KFOR logo on its sides. Each airframe has a substantial number of stencils dotted over its exterior, all of which adds to the visual interest. The instrument decals consist of white details plus green for the MFDs that each pilot has in front of him. Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt/gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This may be an older kit, but it still holds up against modern standards pretty well with nice raised and engraved detail on the fuselage, plenty of parts devoted to the interior and decent clear parts. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
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