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  1. This is the old Revell 1/96 Saturn V, assembled using pieces from two second-hand (partially built) 25th anniversary and 40th anniversary kits, with a RealSpace Block II Command/Service Module, Boost Protective Cover and batted F-1 engines. I also used New Ware's detail kit and a bit of scratch-built detail to produce a rendering of the AS-506 that took Apollo 11 to the moon. Here's a four-quadrant view of the completed model: The upper part in isolation: The area around the S-IVB aft interstage: And the S-II aft interstage: RealSpace provide a vacuum shaped Boost Protective Cover to go with their CSM. I punched out the commander and pilot windows, and added styrene rod to the kit Launch Escape Tower to simulate the wire harness. Build log for this section is at https://oikofuge.com/realspace-196-apollo-csm-part-3/ I used New Ware's scimitar antennae and hatch cover to detail RealSpace's CSM, added kit parts for thruster quads and S-band antenna, BareMetal Foil for bright metal areas, and Space Model Systems decals. Build log for this section starts at https://oikofuge.com/realspace-196-apollo-csm-part-1/ I painted over the transparent section in the kit SLA, and detailed with New Ware photoetch and styrene strip, correcting New Ware's black "-Y" decal on the instrument unit to a "+Y". Build log for this section is at https://oikofuge.com/revell-196-saturn-v-sla-iu/ The S-IVB was detailed with New Ware, replacing multiple fairings and the service tunnel: Here it is with the instrument unit and lower part of the SLA attached: Build log for this stage is at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-s-ivb/ The log for its aft interstage is at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-s-ivb-aft-interstage/ The kit S-II required extensive modification, with New Ware fairings, instrument packages on the thrust structure and a heatshield. I also needed to trim back the kit's stringers, remove all the kit's misplaced fairing locators from the aft skirt, add a layer of insulation to the forward skirt using styrene sheet, and construct the support structure for the heatshield using 0.5mm brass rod. I also moved the LOX vent pipes to their correct position, and corrected the number of gores in the upper tank dome. The kit provides the aft interstage for the S-II with 8 ullage motors, but AS-506 had only four, so the locators for the kit motors had to be removed, stringers repaired, and four New Ware motors added. I added the white flight separation joints above and below the S-II aft interstage by wrapping 0.5mm x 1.5mm styrene strip edgeways around the locating flanges at the base of the S-II and the interstage. Build log for this stage starts at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-s-ii-stage-1/ Build log for its aft interstage is at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-s-ii-aft-interstage/ The rear part of the S-IC needed extensive modification. The kit is based on the SA 500F, which had multiple air scoops around its aft end. Almost all of these had disappeared by the time SA-506 was launched, so New Ware provides photoetch/resin replacement parts for the engine fairings and heatshield. The kit F-1 engines are provide bare, but the real engines were covered with batted insulation - I used RealSpace's resin replacements, with a mixture of chrome paint and Bare-Metal Foil to simulate the different reflective properties of the batting. New Ware's resin heatshield is undetailed beyond the simple outlines of the tiles, so I printed up custom decals to provide rivet and other detail. I also scratch-built lunate heatshields to fill the engine fairing voids, with their own custom decals - both the kit and New Ware provide only rectangular heatshields in this area. For the S-IC service tunnels, New Ware provides mutiple photoetch plates to be wrapped around the kit parts. The contour of the kit parts is wrong, and I instead applied New Ware's photoetch to appropriate lengths of 7mm half-cylindrical styrene rod. I also carved out slots in the kit aft skirt to insert New Ware's resin hold-down posts. I made an error with this stage by not checking the length and fit of the service tunnels. The kit version of this stage is too long by close to an inch (the extra length mainly in the forward tank and intertank structure), and I had assembled it before realizing this. New Ware's tunnels are approximately the correct length to scale, and so don't cover the correct proportions of the overscale stage. Sigh. Build log for this stage starts at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-s-ic-stage-part-1/ The kit's representation of the Lunar Module is wrong in multiple ways, and would need to be rebuilt almost entirely for accuracy. I contented myself by fixing the representation of the external tank strut on the left side, adding a few details with styrene, and marking it up with the insulation patterns of Apollo 11's LM5. A lot of extra detail (antennae, docking target, plume deflectors) could easily have been added, but it would have been like applying lipstick to a pig, and in any case the LM is invisible in the assembled Saturn V - so I didn't bother. Build log for this part is at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-lunar-module/ As a final note, ALL the kit stages are misaligned with each other in rotation, so all the locating lugs between stages had to be relocated to produce the correct alignments. Sorry about the image-heavy presentation, but there are a lot of parts to this kit!
  2. Here is my finished EasyJet A319 in 1/144 scale built using the Revell Kit and displayed in the new scheme thanks to Decals from DrawDecal. I have an A320 to complete in this Livery and thing I’ll try harder to work on the ‘swish back’ lines on the fuselage. I have put it along side a BA A320, both aircraft I have operated when I was Cabin Crew.
  3. Here is my completed American Airlines 777-300 1/44 scale using the Revell Kit, displayed in the new livery This colour stressed me out for so long, and I kept mixing it until I found a colour that I was happy with taking into account various photos of the real thing under different lighting conditions. Interesting to know your thoughts? The paint mix I went for was mixing Revell light grey 371, Revell white gloss 04 and a touch of Revell Silver 90. It was a case of keep mixing until I found a shade I was most happy with. Wings and stabs are Revell 371. Was then clear coated several times with Humbrol Clear, and then finally glossed once the decals had been applied. Thank you for looking and as always any feedback is much appreciated. Alistair
  4. Messerschmitt Bf.110C-2/C7 (04961) 1:32 Revell A German Heavy Fighter, Destroyer or in native German Zerstörer, the Bf.110 was conceived before WWII in the mid-30s, but due to successive upgrades it limped on to the end of the war, despite being largely outclassed by wartime developments by the Allies, which sometimes resulted in heavy losses. The initial A and B variants were underpowered and made do with the stop-gap Jumo engines while waiting for the DB601 power plants that had been promised but were late in arriving. It wasn't until the C variant arrived that the new engines came on-stream, leading to an improvement in performance and a revision of the cowling and radiator enclosures to accommodate the differences. Its duties ranged from long-range reconnaissance or bombing to heavy fighter, with the C-2 taking on the role of the Zerstörer, fitted with an upgraded FuG 10 radio, while the C-7 was designated as a fighter bomber with uprated engines and external hard-points for bomb racks carrying up to 1,000kg bombs, which would have had a serious effect on the performance. It was replaced by the D with extended range due to internal tanks and wiring for external disposable tanks such as the boat-like "Daschund's belly" fuselage tank. This in turn was replaced by the cumbersome E, then the more capable F and G versions that were used until the end of the war. The Kit The plastic in the box for this release is a Dragon kit that was released in the noughties, with the sprues showing evidence of this with little dragons in the corner. Don't confuse it with the 70s era Revell kit in the same scale which is a whole different kit and a much more agrarian affair with a low parts count and raised details. Arriving in a fairly enormous box that could have been much smaller to save shelf-space, it has plenty of room to rattle about during transit, although the individual bagging of the sprues and overall double-bagging should reduce the likelihood of chaffing. If you're a detail hound, you've got masses of room for aftermarket in the box, or even another kit if you're a serial 110 builder. Inside the box are fourteen sprues and a nose cone part in grey styrene, two clear sprues, a large decal sheet and a thick instruction booklet with decal options printed in colour at the rear. With the plastic being Dragon you would expect good detail and you won't be disappointed – there's plenty, and a few spare parts will stay on the sprue as they aren't used in this edition. The instruction booklet looks slightly different from the new-style we're becoming used to, but the drawings may have been taken from the original and "Revellised" as much as possible. I may also be talking nonsense. Detail is very nicely done with just the right balance of engraved and raised elements, with slide-moulding used for hollow parts and to render the complex curves of the nose and engine cowlings. Construction begins with a notification/warning that some sprue gates on this model are spread between the edges of the parts and the mating surfaces, and suggests a two-step process for their clean removal. Cut the part off flush with the edge, then trim the remainder from the mating surface. One such gate can be found on the trailing edge of the wings. With this out of the way, work commences on the cockpit and if you're modelling the C-2 you will need to remove a small rectangular panel of switches from the lower portion of the instrument panel and leave off decal number 73 when you apply the other instrument decals from the sheet. The cockpit of the 110 is a long narrow affair, and the pilot's station is first to be detailed with instrument panel, side-consoles and seat with belt decals, although at this scale a lot of folks will want something more substantial, such as the beautiful belt sets made by HGW. The gunner's arm chair gets a similar decal belt set, as does the radio operator's tiny perch in the form of lap belts only – lucky fella! The radio panel is well-detailed and these too have decal dials applied before they are attached to the bulkhead in front of them. The aircraft's defensive armament needs feeding with brass and the cockpit is filled with spare drum mags for the rear gun and the gun pack that is visible through the hole in the floor beneath the radio man's seat, giving him something extra to do during combat. The gun pack is built up on a small platform with the cannon breeches below and the magazines protruding through into the cockpit. The moulding of the MGFF/M cannons and their recoil springs is very nicely done, but much of it won't be seen after the fuselage is closed up. The pack, cross-members and sidewalls are added to the floor to complete the compartment except for the port sidewall, which is fixed into the fuselage interior in anticipation of closing up the fuselage later. Firstly, however the nose gun bay must be built up on its platform, its quad MG17s mounted with ammo feed and brass chutes added and four milk-bottle sized cylinders affixed to the front bulkhead below the barrels. The nose cone is slide-moulded separately and has a pre-etched line around the inside where the nose cowling is removed for maintenance and reloading of the weapons. This can be removed to display your work inside the nose or fitted with a hollow-moulded gun tube for the belly guns and slid over the gun pack assembly if you want a clean nose. The fuselage is closed up around the cockpit assembly (with gunsight added), locating the sidewall pegs in the mounts within the wing roots and adding the aft cowling/coaming around the gunner's area that's suitable for your choice of mark. A small panel under the rudder pedals is inserted before the nose cone it brought together with the fuselage, relying on a lip to strengthen the join, and here careful alignment will pay dividends later. The fuselage is then flipped over and the H-shaped spar is added along with the panels that cover the underside of the fuselage between the wings. A small panel on the side of the fuselage is flatted down, filled and sanded here for accuracy, and then work begins on the wings. The engines are first to be built up with all their ancillaries and engine mounts, which will be familiar to anyone that has built a Bf.109 before, as they share the same engine. This is all carried out twice for obvious reasons, then the internals of the nacelles are made up to accommodate the wheel bays with a sloped bulkhead that accepts the pegs from the engine mounts on the front, and the main gear legs at the rear. The gear legs are made up from a four-part triangular base with the main strut attached to the bottom and the separate oleo-scissors added straddling the rubber-booted dampers and just needing a little brake-hose stand-in to complete the look. Moving back to the engine, you have the option to leave the cowling off in which case you use one set of exhaust stubs, but if you are leaving the cowlings closed, small sections of cowling are added to a different set of stubs. None of the exhausts are moulded with hollow tips, so you have the choice of drilling and scraping them hollow or finding a pair of Quickboost exhausts (QB32051) if you're lazy like me. For the closed cowling option the two parts are applied from top and bottom to each engine and set aside for later inclusion in the wings. If you are building them with one or more engine open, the cowlings have the exhaust slots added and are joined together separately to pose near the aircraft once it's finished. In the meantime the inside of the cowling that's moulded into the wing is prepared with a number of wedge-shaped ribs and small sections of the cowling behind the exhausts, which are left off if you are using the closed cowlings. The nacelles are lowered in from above, guiding the gear leg through the bay aperture, then closing the wing up with the engine and cowling in place. The very tip of the wing is separate and has a small tip light added in clear styrene, and the port wing has a small intake that is open on the C-2, or fitted with a cylindrical filter on the C-7, so here's it's just a case of choosing the appropriate insert. The completed wings are slid over the twin spars to join the fuselage and although the spars will help obtain the correct alignment, checking by eye won't hurt and propping the tips to the appropriate angle while the glue dries is an easy solution if they're drooping a little. There's still plenty to do, including the H-tail and tail wheel, the latter having a two-part wheel with radial tread and two-part hub that fits between (you guessed it) a two-part yoke and is then integrated with the rear section of the fuselage that initially glues to the underside of the full-width tail upper, to be joined by the twin lowers and the two fins with moulded-in rudders. The completed assembly slots into the back of the fuselage with a tiny clear dome light added at the very back. Flare guards are added to the engine cowlings, as are the twin doors on the main bays, which have rather deep rivets etched into their insides. With the airframe inverted the twin belly bomb rack is made up and fitted along with a pair of larger bombs, and another four on outer-wing pylons in pairs on each wing. The radiator baths are also installed outboard of the engine pods with separate flaps to the rear and depictions of the radiator cores within. The main wheels have two-part tyres and four-part hubs that slip over the axles and should look pretty good with a small flat sanded into the contact area to give them a bit of weighting. The canopy of a 110 is a complex greenhouse in any mark, with this one being no different. The parts are crystal clear and are individual sections to enable the modeller to create any combination of open and closed panels, with a separate cockpit sill part that encompasses the whole aperture save for the windscreen. This holds the defensive MG15 mount which has a canvas covered attachment to the gun's breech, twin drum mags on top, and a flexible dump-chute for the spent brass. Grab handles are fitted to the sides to aid ingress/egress and a few additional instruments are installed behind the pilot's divide with a small inverted L-shaped coaming shielding them from glare. This is fitted to the cockpit along with the central fixed anti-roll frame then the canopy is built up as a complete unit before it is dropped over it. Careful test-fitting and gluing is the watch-word here, and it would be sensible instead to assemble it while in position to dodge any issues caused by parts slipping or drooping before the glue sets. There is a choice of two rear parts, which is the gunner's opening portion when the gun's services are needed, but it's not made abundantly clear what the differences are. From a visual inspection part H7 is substantially narrower than part H8, and has a pair of pegs to pose it open which will require part H15 to slide forwards onto the top of the fixed portion of the canopy. This isn't explained at all well, and neither is the mechanism in which the pilot's canopy opens. The top portion hinges back as shown in step 103, but the side panels that hinge outwards at the bottom to lay flat against the fuselage aren't shown in their open position, but now you know. A quick Google will clarify it further if I've not explained well enough. The last act is to add the props and small breakable parts to the airframe, which is best done after main painting and weathering is completed. The props have a two-part central boss with three individual blades that are inserted along with three short cuffs into the boss and then covered with the spinner and its backplate plus a short axle inserted from the rear. Take care inserting the props as they have a small notch to obtain the correct angle but this is fairly shallow and may be prone to slippage once the glue is applied. Flying surface actuators and horn balances are added with pitot probes, aerials, DF loop and crew step to complete the gluey part. Markings There are two decal options included on the decal sheet with three pages devoted to each one, showing both sides plus top and bottom, then a separate page of a grey airframe shows where all the stencils go. From the box you can build one of the following: Bf.110C-7, S9+AN, 5./ZG1, Belgorod, Russia, May 1942 Bf.110C-2, 3U+GT WkNr. 3063, 9./ZG26, France, June 1940 Decals are by Zanetti with good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas, but here the registration has drifted slightly on my review sample so that some of the stencils are peeking out from under their carrier film by a fraction. Careful application should see them go down well enough, but forewarned is forearmed. Conclusion Other than the slight slippage of the carrier film on the decal sheet, this is a lovely kit that should build up into a respectable miniature, although it won't be small with a 50cm wingspan. The detailers will want to get those exhausts hollowed out and the seatbelts more realistic, but it will still suffice out of the box for the majority of modellers. Speaking of the box, it's a bit of an environmental faux pas to produce such a voluminous box in this more environmentally conscious era we live in. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  5. Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle (06746) 1:93 Revell Kylo Ren is Supreme Leader Snokes' young(ish) apprentice and plays a substantial role in both of the episodes of this sequel trilogy so far, with the promise of more in the upcoming Rise of Skywalker that is due (at time of writing) this Christmas, with the hope that it ends the series on a high note. Ben Solo as he was named at birth gets around in a large black Command Shuttle, which bears a familial resemblance to an Imperial Shuttle in the folded configuration, and with the central fin deleted. In flight the wings fold out into a wide V-shape that defies explanation other than looking malevolent. It's screen time is fairly fleeting in The Force Awakens, but it acts as his mobile command centre toward the end of The Last Jedi, hovering menacingly over the under-used AT-M6 Gorilla walkers and taking centre stage during the breaching of the Rebel base's huge armoured shield-door on Crait . The Kit This is a re-release of the snap-together styrene kit as a true model, and is more detailed and larger most of the other kits in the Star Wars range. It arrives in a large end-opening box, and has six sprues in grey black styrene, plus one containing a single clear part. The details aren't painted at the factory like the previous release, and as such it has been re-branded as a kit with the skill level raised from 2 to 3, and Kylo's helmeted head has been removed from the box art to be replaced by his Grandad wielding his light sabre. Now the instructions show glue being used and colours are called out on the way using the more usual alphabetic codes that relate to their paint brand. The first thing of note is how big these wings really are. They're over 30cm long, so when it's built, you're going to need some headroom wherever you want to store/display it. There are detail inserts in the wing edges, and the cannons in the leading wing-root edge are carried over from the old shuttles. The wings fix into the hull at the vertical landing orientation, so if you want to depict it in flight with wings canted to the sides, you'll need to adapt the roots to suit. The partial retraction of the tips of the wings for landing inside hangar bays would make for a more difficult conversion, but there is bound to be some out there willing to give it a go, and some maniac will probably also motorise it! The lower hull has a crew compartment and bulkhead added along with an articulated access-ramp, which is covered by a blank bay to block your view of the interior. The canopy and wing root bulkheads are slotted in place along with a few other smaller parts, and the hull is closed up, with a pair of exhaust nozzles added to the rear. This time around you will need to paint the canopy yourself, which gives you the opportunity to leave it translucent to show the detail in the control room. The wings slot into the hull's bulkheads on long pins for strength, and you then install the landing gear skids in retracted positions by leaving the gear legs off, or in landing pose by adding the legs beforehand. Conclusion This is a now marketed as a model and I feel that it is better suited to this genre as the surface detail is more in line with its new status. It's a big kit and if you take your time to paint and detail it to the best of your ability, the basic detail is strong enough and for the detailers it is a good base on which to go to town, with room inside the hull for a lighting rig if you have that in mind. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  6. Apollo 11 Lunar Module Eagle (03701) 1:48 Revell 2019 is the 50th anniversary of Man's first landing on the Moon, which began with the huge Saturn V rocket lifting off from Cape Canaveral and ended with the tiniest percentage of its total mass orbiting the moon. Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong moved from the Command Module (CM) into the Lunar Excursion Module (LEM) for the descent to the lunar surface. Despite the dangers of this frail contraption failing at some point they landed safely with a few teaspoons of fuel left in the descent thrusters, after which the immortal phrase "The Eagle has landed" was uttered, of course referring to the name of their little ship. After a momentous descent down the ladder and speech by Neil Armstrong they spent a couple of hours mooching about on the surface collecting samples and setting up a few instruments, then blasted off for rendezvous with the combined CM and Service Module (SM) for the journey back home. Splashdown was also safely executed, and another six successful landings were made in the next few years until the programme was terminated prematurely due to them finding Transformers on the Moon. Or was it monsters, or Nazis? I forget now. Could it have been budgetary reasons and a loss of interest from the American public? Surely not. The Kit Revell have been busily reissuing their back catalogue of Apollo Programme related kits lately to celebrate the anniversary, most of which originate from the toolings made around the time that the landings were still ongoing. This is a more recent kit that is a reboxing of the Dragon kit first released in 2011, so has a lot of detail moulded in and some use of slide-moulding to improve detail out of the box. It also includes a rendition of the gold-coloured Kapton foil that was used to insulate the descent stage and is missing from many of the older kits. The only difference this kit has from the original is that the gold-coloured parts aren't pre-painted. The kit arrives in an end opening box and inside are eight sprues of a matt-finished grey styrene, a single part for the octagonal base of the descent stage, a small sheet of decals, and an instruction booklet. First impressions are good, and the moulding of the crinkled surface of the descent stage parts looks great, although some visible seams will need scraping away for realism. As this is a special edition there are a couple of thumb pots of acrylic paint and a number 2 Revell paint brush included in the box, although that's probably most likely aimed at the casual modeller who may not have their own collections of paint and tools. Great news is this is your first dip of the toe into the hobby. The ascent module builds up quite cleverly, with long tubular friction mountings keeping the module rigid, and simplifying assembly. There is no pretence at an interior here, and the windows that are present on the real thing are supplied as decals to keep it simple. The various antennae and the important direction control thrusters are simple to install, and each have hollow reaction bells, enhancing realism. The lower descent module is mostly covered in the heat resistant Kapton material, but the facets below the thrusters are painted black, so there's less gold to spray. The legs attach to well-defined mounting lugs, which should make for a strong joint. The dished feet don’t have the odd sensor spikes that are sometimes seen under them, so check your references and build up your own if you’re planning on modelling it in-flight. The big reaction bell in the central underside is very well moulded, but has no aperture for the reaction gases to exit the bell, so check your references and decide whether you want to replicate this area. Markings The painting guide is in the back of the instructions, and as well as the gold areas, silver and black are the main colours used for the exterior. The black areas different widely between the various modules, so remember to check your references carefully before committing to paint if you are going off piste with your module choice. Even panels that do appear to be “black” seem to be more of a very dark grey in some pictures, and there are details to the areas that require some close inspection. The decals are printed for Revell in Italy by Zanetti, and consist of a pair of US flags, the “United States” panels emblazoned on the descent stage sides, and the four windows, two triangular and a further two lozenge shaped in the “roof” to monitor the docking procedure with the CM. These decals are black with silver borders, and white markings that were used to guide the landing and docking process. Conclusion This is a very nicely presented kit, and having it in 1:48 is really nice for those of us that also have an aircraft habit in this scale. The parts are well engineered, with a modicum of slide-moulding evident to produce more accurate parts without complicating the build, which is good news. The replication of the wrinkled insulation material is first rate, and the lack of a cockpit interior doesn’t bother me in the slightest, although I would have liked some more realistic windows. Overall though, it’s a great looking model, and I’m really looking forward to building it, as I have a fondness for the Apollo programme and real space in general. Very highly recommended, Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  7. My best mate loves collectables- if you sell AFVs or ship models in the UK, you've probably done business with him. This makes Christmas and birthdays easy going, since I get to send a model of whatever the flavour of the month is. He hates building, never mind painting, so I even get to make the kit. Bargain! This year I sourced a BSG Viper, then wasted a week trying (failing) to paint on wee Hara Thrace's glowing helmet. No biggie, plenty of time left... Or not. Spoiler- warning, contains tale of woe and much whining! The finished item:
  8. This model was finished in April this year. It is the old Revell kit, which is not as detailed as the newer Zvezda kit. The main Problem is the flight deck front Shield, but by filling and sanding and using a decal it Looks ok. Vueling is a Spanish low-cost carrier and in 2012 they had flown 50 Million passengers and marked this Aircraft with a big !Gracias! on one side and on the other side with "Thanks". The Decals are made by Nazca. The Right side is done very well, but surprisingly there were a lot of mistakes on the left side. So I had to improvise at some Areas with some cutting. You will only notice it by directly comparing to original Fotos. I found an interesting Foto showing how much dirt and oil had accumulated on the Bottom and tried to Imitate that. I also painted the back half of the engines somewhat darker to Imitate the traces of the thrust reverser. The Winglets provided by Revell are too small. So i made them from Scratch using Daco`s photo etched parts as atemplate. Zvezda`s also have the correct size So, please feel free to comment on the model and also on the Things I missed or done wrong. cheers, Norbert
  9. Spitfire Mk.II Interior and Seatbelts (for Revell) 1:32 Eduard The new Revell Spitfire II was a welcome kit when it hit us in 2014, despite a few short comings it can still be built into a nice kit. These sets from Eduard will enhance the base kit. Interior (32936) Two frets are included, one nickel plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. A complete set of new layered instrument panels are provide. also for the cockpit a new pilots seat and the armour plate behind it. Rudder pedals, a new gunsight housing and control column parts. There are parts for the aircraft frames directly behind the cockpit. Inside the cockpit there are a myriad of parts for the sides, and cockpit controls. There are parts for the canopy frames and a new cockpit door complete with its framing and the canopy breaker bar (just don't paint it red!). Zoom! Set (33206) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted parts that are used to improve on the main aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the structural elements. Seatbelts STEEL (33207) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. Review samples courtesy of
  10. German Fast Attack Craft S-100 (05162) 1:72 Revell The S Boat is called as the S stands for Schell in German which means fast. The boats were 35m long and 5.1m in beam designed for operations in the North Sea they were very capable vessels with a good performance in rough seas. Their top speed sustained was 43 knots , and they could push this as high as 49 for short bursts. They were powered by three Daimler Benz Diesel Engines which gave better range and performance than any western vessel until the later MTB's arrived. Just to confuse matter the Royal Navy referred to S Boats as E Boats with the E standing for Enemy. They were armed with 2 forward facing torpedo tubes with 2 reloads making a total of 4. Various other close in weapons were mounted such as machine guns, 20mm cannons and even heavier 37mm cannons. The S Boats were very capable attack boats and gave a good account of themselves. The Kit This boxing is a re-release of the kit which originally came out in 2001, and is now on its forth release. The kit arrives as two large hull halves and three additional large sprues. There is some flash evident on these latest ones. There is also a reel of rigging thread in the box. Construction starts with the bridge which unlike those on British vessels has a degree of armour to it to protect the crew. The box which makes the actual bridge is made up and then the external armour is placed over it. Next up the rear ends of the torpedo tubes are made up as these and the bridge structure then get fitted to the ,main deck. The main deck can then be fitted into the hull and this is then closed up. The fore-deck is then fitted with the support structure for the fore-deck gun going in under the deck before its fitted. Various deck fittings are also added at this stage. Moving back to the bridge a large pair of fixed binoculars for the torpedo sighting system are fitted. Also many bridge and bridge casement fittings are added including life-rings and lookout positions. Ventilators are added and the acetate for the screens is fixed in. Access ladders from the main deck are then added. Now moving onto the main-deck various deck housings and fittings are added along with the main side rails, these are rope at the back so are added from the spool supplied in the kit. The weapons including the reload torpedoes are made up at this time. A large what looks to be single barrelled 20mm for the front with a 37mm aft, and a twin 20mm for the midships position. What look to be mine laying rails are added to the stern though no mines are supplied in the kit. Finally the aerial wires are added from the kit supplied spool. If not building a water line diorama or scene then a stand is included for displaying the finished model. Markings There are markings for 2 boats with no details given. The modeller will have to supply their own Swastika for the Ensign. Decals are by Cartograf as can be seen from the small "c" at the end of the code, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion It is good to see this kit being re-released Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  11. So finally, after many months of delay due to 'family things' I've found some time to post a few images of my finished Enterprise! You can see my 'work in progress' thread at Revell Enterprise NCC1701 (TOS) - My First Model, which includes lots of photos, some better than these tbh. As mentioned previously, this was my first model. I've learned a lot so far and enjoyed every minute of the build (apart maybe from masking the windows before paint spraying). I really need to get a decent camera and video camera. I used my phone and these are pretty poor quality, the video is pretty dark and shakey too so sorry about that I also need to create a work-in-progress post for my Revell Klingon D7 that I've started, but havent worked on for a while. Anyway, here they are.... I plan to add some weathering in future models and to be a bit more adventurous when it comes to correcting inaccuracies in the model compared to the TV/Movie models. But, for a first model I'm very happy with this
  12. Here I post sompe pictures of a Lamborghini Diablo VT by Revell. Built completely OOB as a little inbetween-Project to keep the flame burning. It went together quite easily which is why I almost forgot to take some pictures. What you see here is all done just before mating the shell to the undercarriage. Mostly brush painted, a little airbrush work on the cognac. Colours are almost exclusively Vallejo Game Color and metallics Vallejo Model Air. All kit chrome was stripped and reapplied with molotov chrome where necessary. The Bodywork was sprayed enamel white from a rattlecan. The color is RAL9010 pure white which is just a tad off white. I almost always ignore the kits color suggestions completely and so did here. My references were collected from a ad on hemmings.com, which is no longer active. The pictures where downloaded in time, if anyone needs them for reference, let me know. Window surrounds painted slowly with a brush. The clear parts did not fit very well and needed pressure and 2k glue to stay put. Inside of the shell was completely painted black to look right through the openings. Engine and suspension bits were painted in a gunmetal metallic, then washed with a dark ink, probably smokey ink or pure black in places. then heavily drybrushed gunmetal, edges picked again in a bright silver. Some bolts picked out in silver. Exhaust pipes were done with a little bronce mixed into the gunmetal. From the upside very little is seen of the engine. The covers where painted in a ceramic white which I saw in a few pictures of diablo SVTs. I liked this very much and thought it would be great looking with the red decals. Even less will be seen through the opened hood. There's really next to no room around the engine. The cast block was painted black with some edges picked out in silver according to some pictures I found online. I think there's no real car with this combination out there, but it is not too far from reality. The interieur was done in a cognac brown according to the pictures I found online. The decal for the middle console is originally one part but needed to be seperated to fit nicely. The seats were rubbed down a bit with my fingers to give them a more used look. I appologize for the poor picture quality - I used my old camera but did not realize I had set the ISO still way too high as I took pictures in the dark before. By now the car is finished to a reasonable standard for a quick project and sits in my bookshelf. Some more pictures will probably follow.
  13. U.S.S Voyager (04992) 1:670 Revell The USS Voyager is a series set in the world of Star Trek, some treckies liked it, while some not so much. The series followed the adventures of the USS Voyager NVV-74656 an Intrepid Class Starship captained by Kathryn Janeway. The series ran from 1995 and followed the adventures of the ship which was transported to the Delta Quadrant (35 years travel from Earth) and its 7 year journey to return to Federation Space. The Kit This boxing is a re-release of Revell's original tooling from 1995. The kit has a relatively low parts count at 67 and is not as detailed as some of the Star Trek kits out there. However the large moulding from Revell are very detailed and with some nice painting will make this an impressive model at 514mm long. As well as the kit in the box is a generic Star Trek base. Construction is fairly simple begins with inserts to the two large upper hull mouldings. Once all these are in place they can be joined together. More inserts are added to the lower hull mouldings and then these can be joined with a top part also filling in. At the from the reflector array is made up and added. The lower and upper hulls can then be joined up. The supporting structure for the engines is now built up, as are the engines them selves. Once built up these can be added tot he main hull. A single part shuttle is provided for the rear shuttle bay. Lastly the base is made for the model to be displayed on. Markings There is a large decal sheet for the model kit with many smaller decals to apply. Decals are by Cartograf as can be seen from the small "c" at the end of the code, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion It's good to see this kit re-released but it is a bit simple. Its a shame there is no landing gear for the kit as the ship did have the ability to land on planets in the series. Also Revell could do with tooling some coloured clear insets rather than having the modeller colour the clear ones. Overall though recommended if you are a fan of the series. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  14. Dingo 2 GE A2.3 PatSi (03284) 1:35 Revell The Dingo is a German MRAP vehicle based on the Unimog chassis produced by Krauss-Maffei Wegman for the German Army. As well as being deigned to be mine resistant it will also protect the occupants from machine gun fire, and artillery fragments. The Dingo 2 has increased performance and higher payload than the original vehicle. The new vehicle also features a roof mounted remote weapons station and sensors. As well as the German Army the vehicle is used by Belgium, Norway, Austria, Luxembourg and the Czech Republic, with more than 800 under contract. The Kit This boxing is a re-release of the 2013 kit with additional parts for the 2 model. There are 7 sprues of plastic, a clear sprue and 4 runner tyres. The quality of the mouldings is good. Construction starts with the vehicle chassis. Both side rails are made up along with the front wheels arches. The rails are then linked by cross braces and the transmission casing. The rear plate containing the tow hitch and convoy marker plate is added. The front suspension units are then added into the chassis. Next up the front & rear axles are made up, along with the wheels. The transmission power shafts are then added as well. These can then be added to the chassis with the rear suspension units being added as well. The engine is then made up and added on to the chassis. along with the exhaust. Construction then moves to the body of the vehicle. The lower body pan is made with seats being made and added, along with equipment and its racks. At the front the dashboard is made up and added. Next the armoured windscreen and doors are made up, The doors being added into the vehicle side panels. The entry steps and supporting structure is made up for each side. The sides, rear, roof and windscreen can then be added onto the main body. The separate rear stowage compartment can then also be made up. These can then all be attached to the chassis along with the bonnet assembly. Last up the roof mounted remote weapons station and sensors can be made up and added. To finish off a few fitting such as mirror and antennas are added, a length of antenna wire being included taped to the front of the instruction booklet so it does not get lost. Markings There are markings for 3 German Army vehicles, one training unit in Germany, and 2 operational units in Afghanistan. Decals are by Cartograf as can be seen from the small "c" at the end of the code, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion It is good to see this kit being re-released and upgraded to represent the latest vehicle in use today. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  15. After completing my first model, The Revell 1/400 Titanic back in 2017, everything went downhill a bit. I goofed a model I was working on and lost my mojo. As ever, life got in the way before I could get it back. Finally decided I need to use all this equipment I bought and crack on with the ever increasing number of kits in my stash! This is the Revell 1/72 Spitfire Mk Vb. Got it super cheap as part of a set with the paints and brushes. Can't remember where from but I do remember thinking I need at least one Spitfire in my collection! Choice of two builds, the clipped wing spitfire as shown on the box artwork or with the elliptical wings. This is Spitfire AZ-G BL924 'Valdemar Atterdag' as flown by P/O Axel Svendsen. Svendsen was shot down and killed by a Focke Wulf 190 over Berck-sur-Mer on the Channel Coast. He had logged 30 operational sorties and 26 hours on the Spitfire before his death. The Spitfire and the pilot where gone forever but a full size replica does exist. The kit itself is a mixed bag as many of you will know. This is the 90's (I think?)version with no gullwing and a number of other errors. Fit is poor in some places, not least where the gullwing should be but it does have a nice amount of detail. Decals where fine and behaved for the most part. And the canopy seemed to fit just fine. It's an OOB build using Revell's recommended colours. All airbrushed except the yellow strips on the wings and the stripe on the rear of the fuselage. That decal was a nightmare! So, a number of firsts for this model. First time with an airbrush. First time trying to do cammo with blu tack. First attempt at weathering.... Not the best looking of Spitfire's on display as I made many a schoolboy error, but i'm happy with how many of the things have turned out and I have developed some new skills to bring to my next models. Hope you enjoy! 20190624_111651 Spitfire Build June 2019 Spitfire Build June 2019 Spitfire Build June 2019 Spitfire Build June 2019 Spitfire Build June 2019 Spitfire Build June 2019 Spitfire Build June 2019 Spitfire Build June 2019 Spitfire Build June 2019
  16. Revell is to release in November 2016 a new tool 1/32nd Boeing F/A-18E Super Hornet kit - ref.04994 What's wrong with the Trumpeter's 1/32nd Super Hornet? Followed or not in 2017-2018 by two seats 1/32nd Boeing F/A-18F Super Hornet and EA-18G Growler? Source: http://www.plastik-modellbau.org/blog/revell-neuheiten-2016/2016/ V.P.
  17. Here is the latest Revell Bristol Beaufighter TF.X. I built this kit for a review in the Dutch IPMS magazine. It was built straight out of the box, except for the Eduard seatbelts. Actually, it is a pretty good kit. Only some minor fitting issues, a very fragile landing gear and the instructions leave you with some guess work. Hope you like.
  18. I didn't realise until late last night that the build threads were getting going. So if I may just 'lay down a marker' for these bad boys... They have been sat in the cupboard stash for a few months - waiting for this GB to 'kick off'. I'll get some sprue shots before the weekend, but the vague idea is to do them as a 'matching' set. They will be strictly OOB and a 'just for fun' project - as my mojo has been a little lacking of late. Hopefully the 'team spirit' of a GB will give me the KUTA I need at the moment. See you at the weekend and good luck everyone, Steve
  19. Hello The warship virus is back and i have dusted my naval projects. While my Hood is still on hold, i have made progress on another project.I have started building Revells Schlachtschiff Bismarck a while ago and made also a start on the Tirpitz, also from Revell. Like so often building has started quite spontaneous and i think its now time to present them. Both are quite new kits and well detailed, to enhence this, i am using the Eduard BiG Ed set, a wooden deck from Pontos and turned metal barrels from RB and Master, i am not sure if i add more stuff. Depends on my budged. Building warships is complex so i am progressing on Bismarck first. Some pictures contain also parts from her sister ship. Both kits have some fit problems but nothing some putty and sanding can t cure. The first pics showing the hull of Tirpitz, with some sanding and filling. I am still fighting with with the different shape of her bow. Some fit problems and a new keel made from putty. I had started to build parts of the super structures. Quite different. Tirpitz on top. Some images of the pe parts, wooden deck and gun barrels Now on to Bismarck. The paint work on her hull is done but could need some touch ups. The decals for the water pass, and camo stripes were not used. Its more easy to match the the color of the baltic scheme stripes in her super structure. The poster from the Kagero books are a good back up for photos and a very helpful reference. It has also some flaws too. The Pontos deck is on, the red stripes are painted, the aft one is too small. Decals will do the rest of this detail. That was the point of the re start of the build. The main modelling time in the last 10 days were adding, folding and glueing on photo etched parts and removing and sanding away plastic details. But that is only the beginning. The bow. Still lots of details are missing here. The forecastle in the area of ht e first break water, the louvers got details. The barbette from turret "B" or Bruno got platforms around. Not every handrail of these platforms made it onto the model... Some midship details. Eduard has supplied the modeller with only some part of the steel decks before the catapult, Hope it looks good under the paint. I have also started to add watertight doors and the covers for the portholes. Very fiddly ! The roof of the aircraft hangar. Many of her boats were stowed here. The kit part before ...and after cutting and sanding every detail away and replacing them with pe parts. The hangar door was glued on after the pe parts were added on the roof top now i have a seam ( and also a damage ) And details around turret Caesar The turrets of the main guns have seen some work as well, more on those later. Thanks for looking Bernd
  20. Apollo 11 Saturn V Rocket (03704) 1:96 Revell You may have heard that it is the 50th anniversary of Man walking on the moon, which was kicked off by JFK's speech and their collection of German rocket scientists that were brought back to America under Operation Paperclip at the end of WWII, most notable of whom was Werner Von Braun, who had dreamt of going to the moon since his childhood. The monstrous Saturn V rocket was the result, and at the very tip of that particular spear was the Lunar Module (LEM) under a protective cowl, and the Service Module (SM) with the Command Module (CM) at the very top under the Launch Escape System (LES) rocket pack that was destined never to be used (thankfully) if the early launch process went awry. There were earlier manned launches of the smaller Saturn 1 and 1B rockets, after which the Saturn V was the sole launch platform for the Apollo missions, totalling 13 launches by the end of Apollo 17's trip there and back again. An adapted Saturn V was also used to launch the Skylab space station into orbit, although it eventually made an uncontrolled re-entry once the mission was over and the station-keeping thrusters had exhausted their fuel. The Kit This is a re-release of Revell's 1970s vintage kit in 1:96, and it's a monster. The original boxing stated that it's almost 4 feet tall, while this new 50th edition gives us a length of 114cm. The box is substantial, and has a captive lid that folds over the side and is secured by two large tabs. Inside the box is divided into two portions, one containing the silver plastic parts and the paints that accompany the model, and the larger section with all the white styrene in there. There are also two flat sections of card, which have shapes pre-cut, and can be used to store the completed model minus the third stage once you've finished. The box contains 183 parts, and surprisingly to the uninitiated, there aren't any large diameter big long tubes for the various stages, as those are supplied as flat styrene sheet with the markings printed directly on their surface. These sheets are wrapped round to form a tube, which is then pinned in place by the umbilicals and held to shape with the styrene end-caps. Inside the box are the following: 11 x top/bottom fairings for the three stages in white styrene 4 x sprues of white styrene parts for the Saturn V Rocket 5 x sprues of silver styrene parts for the LEM/CM/SM 4 x white styrene sheets with printed markings for the Saturn V stages 1 x sheet of decals 1 x large silver styrene base 1 x bag with four thumb-pots of Revell acrylic paint, small Contacta glue, No.2 paint brush Add to that the instruction booklet, and that's everything inside the box. The kit is a product of its era, but detail is pretty good and any flash seems to be mostly adhering to the sprues rather than the parts. There are some well-documented inaccuracies in this kit, but in the marketplace of larger scale Saturn V kits (1:144 and above) that can be said of them all, so if you want to go BIG but not HUMONGOUS, this is still the kit for you. I'm reliably informed that when complete it will fit into one of those floor-standing Ikea cabinets if you remove all the glass shelves. There are probably three main ways to approach this project. Build it as is and just enjoy it, build it and improve it as you go along, or build it with the aid of aftermarket and try to improve the accuracy and detail. Most casual observers wouldn't notice the difference between each approach, so it's entirely up to you as usual how much effort, time and money you put into the task. Construction begins with the base, as the model needs some support as it grows taller, so it makes sense. Four triangular supports are glued to the base plate and painted red, which gives the model a little anti-topple protection. The five big F-1 engines are next, made up from two halves with two additional parts making up the complex tubing above the bells. These are depicted bare, but the actual launch vehicles were covered with batted insulation that gave them a different look, so here you can decide to leave them as is, scratch some insulation from foil or similar, or go all out and purchase the aftermarket engine sets that are available. The completed engines are fitted onto a flat bottom plate, which then slips into the underside of the first styrene cap, resting on a small ledge at the bottom. The narrow black and white sheet is then rolled up to form the bottom tubular section of the stage and pinned together by umbilical parts inside and out, fitting to the top of the engine assembly using a keyed mating surface. The four conical engine cowlings are added all round, and another styrene ring is added to the top of the growing structure, with the longest styrene sheet sat on top of that, then the top of stage 1 with its domed tank clearly visible inside. The connection between the top of stage 1 and 2 is a cylindrical part that you often see being incinerated as it tumbles away in footage of the launches. This covers the stage 2 engines, which consist of five Rocketdyne J-2 units, again with small parts added above the two-part engine bells. These are glued into another tapered styrene cylinder, which fits into the top of the interconnect, and has the mostly white sheet used to create the body, with umbilical parts used to hide the joins again. Another domed fuel tank top is inside the top of that stage, and a conical cowling fits into the top of that too. The narrower third stage has a conical underside with one J-2 engine at the bottom, with another styrene tube made up and inserted into the top, and joined by another domed fuel tank on top. Attention now turns to the LEM, CM & SM, which are also available as a separate kit, reviewed here recently. The sprues are the same, the decals are all amalgamated with the kit markings, and the only thing that isn't included is the gold foil for the LEM, which you can easily replace by treating yourself to a chocolate bar or similar. I won't re-tread old ground, suffice to say that all three sections are built up, although the LEM is fitted with its legs folded up so that it slots into the tapered cowling that it rides into space inside, one section of which is transparent for easy viewing of the completed model. The CM and SM are installed on the top, and the LES sits on the very top of a short tower, to lift the CM clear using emergency rockets that can be seen under the flared base. Also included is the lunar surface base and goose-neck stand for the kit, so the instructions give you some suggestions on how to use the parts if you feel like it. I think most people will probably leave the three modules at the top of the stack though, as it's all about the going up part. Please note that the gold foil pictured above is NOT included with this model Markings There's only one option for the markings, as you might expect, and much of the main body is either self-coloured or pre-printed on the flat styrene sheets that go to make up the blank tubular sections. The decals are printed for Revell by Zanetti, and are in good register with plenty of sharpness and colour density. The key part is to match up the black sections with the printed parts, and to paint the complex chequer pattern on the tapered cowling correctly. The other decals are pointed out on diagrams on the rear page, which also shows you how to store the model in the original box once you have built it. Given its sheer size, this is a very useful capability. The diagram shows an in-built handle, which doesn't seem fitted to my box, which is a shame. Conclusion The kit might also soon be celebrating its own 50th anniversary, but considering that it is still quite an impressive kit, not just for its size. It has the undiminished appeal of the raw power it used to get men to the Moon, and can be built by a child with minimal paint, an adult with care and some precision, or a detailer with the assistance of aftermarket that's available from companies such as Realspacemodels.com and New Ware Models. Beware your wallet if you go down that route though. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  21. Apollo 11 Columbia & Eagle (03700) 1:96 Revell It’s the 50th anniversary of Man landing on the Moon, and Revell have re-released all their staples of the Space Age and the race between the US and Soviet Union to put a man on the moon, following John F Kennedy's rousing speech less than a decade earlier. For Apollo 11 Colombia was the name for the Command Module (CM) and Service Module (SM), and Eagle was the given name to the Lunar Module (LM), which made the descent on the 20th July 1969 and landed with a thimble-full of fuel in reserve on the surface of the Sea of Tranquillity, a large expanse of reasonably flat ground in the upper right quadrant of the face of the Moon that is always turned toward us due to its speed of rotation and orbit. They stomped around a bit in their stiff space suits, leaving footprints and some scientific instruments, then boarded the Ascent Stage of the LM and blasted off, linked up with the CM/SM combination and headed back to earth, with just the CM ending up back on earth, albeit a little hot during re-entry, then damp after splashdown. The Kit Modelled in the unusual scale of 1:96, which happens to match their gigantic Saturn V kit that is also available again (watch out for my review of that in due course), this kit hails from the same era as the others, although it first saw light in 1969, the same year as the events it depicts. It arrives in a medium-sized end-opening box, and inside are five sprues in a muted silver styrene, a sheet of clear acetate, a square of thin gold foil to simulate the insulation, a small decal sheet, and the instruction booklet. Again, it's a product of its age, and although it has some good detail in places, there are likely to be some areas that would require work if you're a purist that's aiming for accuracy. As it's a special edition, you also get four thumb-pots of acrylic paint, a small bottle of Contacta Professional semi-liquid cement. Construction begins with making up the small windows in the CM using the 1:1 templates provided, which are then shown being inserted into the conical body from the inside. A pair of lifting eyes and the top cone where the re-entry parachute packs were stowed are added, then the cramped cockpit is built up on the bottom heat-shield, with rudimentary seats moulded into the bulkhead for one of the astronauts, Michael Collins for Apollo 11 to sit, all dressed up in his suit, although it's unlikely he wore his helmet for much of the time he was alone. The two halves are brought together and glued, then set aside until later on. Jumping around, the boxy descent stage of the LM is then made up and painted gold, and later given its insect-like legs, then dressed up in the supplied foil, which should first be scrunched up to give it the typical wrinkled look seen on the real thing. The Service Module carried all the fuel and supplies needed to get there and back again, and was basically a very tightly packed cylinder with a large rocket engine bell at the rear. This is made of the two halves of the cylinder, which is stopped up with fore and aft bulkheads and the engine bell fitting into a socket on the latter. The communications array (the four dishes) and manoeuvring thruster packs are all added, then it too is set to one side. Before the Ascent Stage of the LM is made, you need to cut a couple of triangular windows from the clear sheet, again using more 1:1 templates, then inserting them from inside. A single crew figure is glued inside the front half of the crew compartment just so he can be seen by anyone looking inside. There's no other detail, and the suit style isn't correct for Apollo 11, but as it won't be seen, we'll not worry about it. As this is likely to be Buzz Aldrin, we close him in by adding the rear half of the module, a couple of angular bases for the aft thruster packs, which are glued to their tops. The front thruster packs are also fitted to the module by a pair of triangular mounts, and the steerable S-band antenna is added to the side on three legs. The rendezvous radar assembly is attached to the front "forehead" of the module's "face" on a bracket in front of the docking tunnel door. Then it's a matter of deciding how you plan on displaying your model. The lunar surface is represented by a large flat(ish) chunk of moulded styrene, with a sweeping goose-neck stand rising out of one end. Another figure is supplied for the moon walk, to represent the late Neil Armstrong, complete with his life support backpack, and some slightly off-mission space suit details. The four stages of the mission are shown in the last few steps, beginning with the flight from orbit to the Moon, where the full stack is joined together, with the LM travelling backwards. The landing shows the LM on the surface, with the CM/SM orbiting overhead on the stand, which is not to scale altitude in case anyone wondered! On departure the moon the Ascent Stage leaves the Descent stage behind and joins up with the CM/SM for the journey home, pausing briefly to cast the Ascent Stage off into space. The last step shows the CM leaving the SM in orbit and descending for the splashdown, which isn't a particularly practical option, as it wastes the whole LM and would need a new stand, so was probably included just for completeness. Markings There are no explicit painting instructions in the booklet, as all of the markings and colour callouts are made during construction, citing Revell paints and using a few more colours than are provided in the little pots, but as they're primarily aimed at the younger modeller who brush-paints, we're all likely to have some equivalents even if we don't use Revell colours. Decals are printed by Zanetti, with good registration, sharpness and colour density, and a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. There are two curved logos for the CM, two more for the SM, and another larger one for the Descent Stage of the LM, plus four stencils for the SM's thruster packs. Conclusion This re-release of an early Apollo kit will doubtless stir some nostalgia with those that remember it from days gone by, and with a little extra work it can be brought up to modern standards. It is nice to see that Revell have included gold foil in this issue, as it shows that they are aware that painting the LM gold won't cut it in today's modelling world. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  22. I hesitate to call myself a modeller - more of a two-left-hands-composed-entirely-of-thumbs plastic mangler. But it is a bit of fun! Soooo.......time to sharpen the knives and set the ovens to 160 - here comes Quaaaack! As a reminder, my first build was a Bae hawk in beautiful orange-peel black Time to look for my next build - my errr... second After a bit of a struggle with the learning curve on the last one, I decided to try harder to learn new stuff and try handling some of these new-fangled etchy resiny bits. Might as well stretch myself, though it may all end in tears (or the bin!) Starting point is a Revell 1/48 Jaguar GR1. No box shot cos the box was recycled months ago, and no sprue shots as everybody knows what sprues look like. Hopefully one day I'll persuade it to look vaguely like a Granby Kitty. Kicking off with the Neomega resin cockpit - This was my first time trying to surgically insert resin into reluctant plastic. Rear cockpit bulkhead removed and side walls stuck in after a lot of dry-fitting. The nose wheel well appears to have a short-shot issue with an absent side wall but I'm really not too bothered by this as the build is really all about trying things out. After the build is complete, I doubt I'll ever look down there anyway.... Next - tried painting the cockpit - initially seemed ok until I checked the photo -----aaaaaarrrrrgh Its 'Orrible. A bit more poking with hairy sticks and it's marginally better. No doubt I'll tinker with it later. Seat painting slightly more successful. I'm actually half pleased with this - taking into account my shaky hands and rubbish eyesight. I'll fiddle more with that later. Panel assembled and painted. Next I had a look at the rear end and the rather unconvincing fuel dump arrangement I thought it might be relatively straight-forward to ream this out to leave a recess, then replace the jettison pipe with brass rod, filling the void with a plug of mlliput....Adventurous Quack! One half done. Both sides opened and some milliput to avoid the see-through effect. Photo-etch next - trying to roll awkward bits into vaguely exhaust-like shapes - bit hamfisted but hey it's all experience! Problems arose trying to fit the fuselage halves with really don't want to align at all (Just my kit? Just my luck? Just my two left hands?) I ended up gluing several plastic card shims at strategic points along the join lines to try to persuade them to align without enormous steps... Fuselage closed up now with some primer to show me where the seams need work - no matter how much I sand they seem to show up! At this rate I'll end up oversanding the contours....... The large inlet on the spine for the primary heat exchanger has been carved away and re-floored with a bit of plastic card - another first for Quack. The openings for the smaller heat exchanger behind the cockpit have also been opened to try to make them look a bit more (ahem!) realistic. There's a plug of milliput in there too to avoid a see-through effect. I've tried replacing the intakes as the kit parts show the auxiliary doors open, which I believe would only occur when engine running on the ground. I used resin replacements and after bodging a bit, thought I might get away with a line here - unfortunately photos show that this is really a smooth blended curve without a clear panel line so more sanding and filling and sanding required. Yes I know I said sanding twice.....I've been doing a lot of flipping sanding and filling and blending....and swearing. And now I think I'll leave it alone - probably as good as I'll get it. Right - that's enough for now. If can keep this out of the bin I'll post up some more soon. Maybe Christmas. I'm a slow builder. Happy to receive any advice - keep it noob-appropriate as I'm still really just on my second build. One of the reasons for posting this as a WIP is to receive the wisdom of my fellow BM'ers. All tips gratefully received - though please don't get upset if I make an almighty @rse of it all. Happy plastic-mangling everybody! Quack
  23. Under the ship killer category - He 177A-5 with Fritz X guided missiles. In 1943 Fritz X missiles sunk the battleship Roma. I hope to do a couple more in the GB time allowing, but i will see how i get on with this one first. TFL Cheers Greg
  24. Built OOB and tried to get the very worn finish of the Bounty Hunters Tomcats using multiple shades of grey. Not exactly as I had hoped as it is slightly too dark I think, but I'm calling it done. Missing a couple of small bits that I offered up as a sacrifice to the carpet monster, so need to replace the pitot tube and 2 airspeed/AAT probes. The decals were a bit thick and silvered a little despite gloss coating beforehand, although other than that quite a nice kit to build. Crew figures from PJ Productions.
  25. My most recent completion, totally exhausted with the effort that went into decaling on this project. First off, the build. Pretty straight forward, fit was okay (but not a patch on Japanese and, more recently, some of the newer Korean engineering). There are quite a number of sink marks in the plastic though - perhaps due to the age of the molds themselves? I didn't worry about these too much as the markings would tend to draw the eye anyway. Almost completely OOB, only aftermarket used were the Master Model pitot tube and AOA sensors. Now the decals. I've heard that these are Cartograf - if so, thank goodness! My kit had an old and yellowed decal sheet. Quite a few were brittle and shattered on application. I suspect that being Cartograf they had some inherent strength which limited the number and severity of breakages. Even so, there were many hours spent playing decal jigsaw on a minute sub-millimetre scale. I ended up using Mr Color Levelling Thinners sprayed through the airbrush as the decal setting agent (after first applying Mr Mark Softer and then Micro Sol!). I restrained myself with regards to the weathering, this is a show-bird after all, but felt some oil streaks and stains on the underside were in order. Anyhoo, enough with my rambling... on with the pics! As always, thanks for looking
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