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  1. Hi everyone! Finally the next member of the Kartveli line-up is Ready For Inspection. Alexander Kartveli was, of course, the designer of types such as the SEV-3, P-35, F-84 series and the mighty F-105. This time, and as a side interest, I’ve gone for the Thunderbolt and, as is my way, it is in the markings of the Cuerpo de Aviación Militar Dominicana, the forerunner of the Fuerza Aerea Dominicana. She depicts aircraft number 1113 of a fleet that consisted of around 25 machines, operating from Trujillo Airbase. Most popularly these are illustrated and modelled as either 1124 or 1125 in the red trim, rather than the yellow shown on 1113. Again, my like for the more unusual led me to this scheme. Here is a grainy photo of her: Typically these machines were kept pretty clean. However, I’ve used a little “modeller’s licence” and finished her as I am sure she would have been after a few months of operations – a little grubby, particularly the yellow. She is an F-47D-30 and the base kit is the Revell boxing, which is a great kit to build. It is clean, easy and has ample detail. So, what did I do/use?: Kit – Revell P-47D-30 (04155) 1/72 Decals – Home printed serials and tail code, Mehusla YK-88-1 white stars, Carpena 72-28 national insignia and unit badge, Xtradecal white stripes, Kit decals for stencilling etc. Paints – overall Humbrol Metalcote H27002 with H32 Black anti-dazzle, H154 Insignia yellow, H27004 Metalcote Gunmetal, H189 Insignia Blue and H153 Insignia Red, plus Humbrol Satincote varnish. Paint mask – Montex 72001 Plastruct plastic rod for new pitot (corrected shape and the kit one was bent/broken) I hope you like here. Martin
  2. Hi Folks, this is my latest contribution, built straight out of the box the only addition being a couple of Revell Crew members. No real problem with the build other than when I joined the cockpit section to the main airframe, and to be honest that problem was caused by my fixation on hiding the join, if I had left it it would have just appeared as another panel line. I used Tamiya and Vallejo Acrylics and had another go at black basing, this time I was happier with the result. Overall an enjoyable build, as usual any comments, criticisms and observations are welcome and will be received in the same friendly manner in which I am sure they will offered. Thanks for looking.
  3. Hello, I'd like to present USS Voyager from Revell - just after finish. Painted as always with Tamiya and Mr.Hobby. Wash by AK. Despite decaling errors I'm happy with result
  4. Hi guys, this is my last finished model. This is very good Revell's Rafale C in 1/48 scale. The kit has been known for years. In this year Revell issued a re-release to build version C. This is very good kit, couple of problems during the build. I added a lead wire for imitation wires in the landing gears. I also add Eduard's Storm Sadow missiles and Eduard Rafale M painting masks. Model was painted with Gunze H, Tamiya and Vellejo paints (details in cockpit). Exhaust nozzle I painted the exhaust nozzles with Alclad Jet exhaust color.
  5. So a quick build of this little one for a Sci Fi GB elsewhere as my original kit entry (Bandai pocket Falcon) is still somewhere on a very slow boat from the far east The kit is Revell's 1/160 Slave One and is one of their Easy Kits (Snap fit to you and me). I cut off most of those lugs and glued it. After primer from a can, it's all brush painted with Revell Acrylics. Was my first time using Maskol for the chipping effect and I think it turned out ok. Flory Models wash and some random paint effects here and there. Revell_Slave_One_2 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Slave_One_1 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Slave_One_3 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Some decal spares to brighten up Boba's instrument panel Revell_Slave_One_4 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr The wings rotate which I managed not to mess up. Revell_Slave_One_6 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr A good level of detail for the price and while it's no Bandai, I had plenty of fun with it. Will try to scratch up a landing pad for it soon. Revell_Slave_One_9 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Thanks for looking! Dermot
  6. Dassault Mirage IIIE/RD/O Revell 1:32 History While the initial Mirage IIIC model was heading towards quantity production, Dassault promoted a long-range, all-weather air defense/strike fighter (multirole) variant of the design as the "Mirage IIIE". The prototype first flew on April 1st, 1961 and included a lengthened fuselage with increased avionics and fuel, a Marconi navigation radar, Radar Warning Receiver (RWR) and Cyrano II series air-ground radar. The Mirage IIIE was outfitted with the SNECMA Atar 09C series afterburning turbojet engine and a total of three prototypes furthered the endeavor prior to production. After adoption by the French Air Force, the IIIE was also licensed-produced in the countries of Australia, known as the Mirage IIIO(A), and Switzerland while fielded by the forces of Argentina, Brazil, Lebanon, Pakistan, South Africa, Spain and Venezuela under various export designations. French Air Force Mirage IIIE models were cleared for nuclear ordnance. As with other interceptor aircraft of the period, a dedicated reconnaissance variant soon emerged as the "Mirage IIIR". This variant offered the ground attack frames of the Mirage IIIE models with the avionics suite of the Mirage IIIC interceptor. They lacked radar under the nose cone and housed multiple cameras for photo-reconnaissance sorties instead. The Mirage IIIR was then improved through the "Mirage IIIRD" upgrade. Reconnaissance types were adopted outside of France by the forces of Israel, Pakistan, South Africa and Switzerland. The Model Originally released in 2016 by Italeri, Revell have now re-boxed the kit with new decals. The kit comes in a top opening box which is still incredibly flimsy, which showed by the fact that the review samples windscreen had been badly cracked. Inside there are six large sprues of grey styrene, one of clear and a large, colourful decal sheet. The moulding of the parts looks to very nice and fine, with no flash or other imperfections. Whilst quite detailed out of the box, there is plenty of room for extra, should the modeller wish. Construction begins with the assembly of the nine piece ejection seat with a choice of ejection handles on the head box. Although nice, the kit only comes with decal seatbelts, etched steal/brass or cloth would be much better, so you will have to resort to aftermarket items. The single piece cockpit tub is fitted out with a lower front bulkhead, alternative two piece instrument panels, depending on whether you are building the E/O or RD versions, joystick, and three piece coaming with optional head-up display. The upper rear bulkhead and sidewalls are then attached to the tub, followed by the three piece nose wheel bay, which is attached to the rear of the cockpit tub. The cockpit/bay assembly is then glued to the lower fuselage, which will also need some holes drilled depending on which version you are building. The main wheel bays are each made up from four parts, which are then glued into the lower fuselage. The full length intakes are each made from two halves, but in such a way that there shouldn’t be any seams to worry about. The rear sections of the intakes where they join is a single piece, which when all assembled allows the intakes to be fitted to a bulkhead which is then glued into one half of the upper fuselage. Strangely enough, the instructions then tell you to build the engine at this point, which is a very nice six piece assembly, as a standalone model itself, but could have been left till the end where its transport stand is also assembled. The fin is then assembled and again, the modeller has to drill out holes depending on the version they are building. The fuselage halves are then joined together, sandwiching the intakes in-between, after which the fin assembly is glued into place. Each wing, also requiring holes to be drilled out depending on version are each made up from upper and lower halves, but before joining them together the modeller has to fit the upper and lower airbrakes, outer main gear bays and main gear oleos. Clear lenses for the navigation lights are then attached. If you’re building the RD reconnaissance version then the camera nose needs to be assembled. Each of the four cameras are made from three parts including clear lenses. The rear nose bulkhead is then fitted with the camera platform onto which the cameras are then fitted. The lower camera bay hatch is fitted with clear ports, after which the nose halves are glued together with the bay in-between and a fifth camera in the extreme nose and the final clear parts to cover the ports. The bay hatch can either be posed in the open or closed position with support rams to hold it open should the modeller wish it. The upper and lower fuselage sections are glued together, followed by the fitting of the wing assemblies, intakes and either the RD or E/O nose sections having fitted 20g of nose weight just forward of the cockpit first. Now the rather confusing bit in the instructions, which show the engine assembly being slid into the exhaust orifice before the exhaust fairings and nozzle sections, yet in another diagram it shows the nozzle and fairing being fitted without the engine. So, it looks like you can either engine on the display stand or in the aircraft, yet there are no other details for the interior of the fuselage should you want to display it out. The wings are fitted with half of the flap and aileron actuator fairings, whilst the other half is fitted to the control surfaces. The main undercarriage assemblies are then completed with the addition of scissor links, actuators, outer doors and two piece wheels. The inner doors are fitted with separate hinges before being glued into place. The nose wheel is made up from thirteen parts not including the bay doors and once assembled is glued into position. In front of the nose wheel bay there is a bulged panel, which looks like a doppler panel, and depending on the version the modeller is building there is an option of two types. The build of the aircraft is completed by the fitting of the windscreen, canopy, which can be posed open or closed, various aerials, pitot probe and a nicely produced access ladder. The optional engine stand is then assembled from thirty six parts and will look great in a diorama setting. If you are building the E/O strike version then the kit comes with a wide selection of weapons to hang of the aircraft. These include the Matra R530 missile, 500 l, 1300l and 1700l drop tanks, JL 100R Rocket pods/fuel tanks, R550 Magic missiles, AIM-9B missiles, Matra AS37 Martel missiles, Barax pod, Barracuda pod and Phimat pods Decals The decals come on a large sheet and provide options for three aircraft. The decals look very nice, being in register, good colour density but with quite a matt/satin finish. Some of the decals are quite large and will probably need some softening and setting solutions to bed down correctly. The sheet also contains a full set of stencils and warning symbols for both the aircraft and the ordinance. The options are:- Mirage IIIE 3-XT “50 Years EC 3/3 Ardennes” Armee De L’air, BA133, Nancy-Ochey, 1993 Mirage IIIRD 33-TI ER 3/33 Moselle, Armee De L’air, BA124, Strasbourg-Entzheim, 1987 Mirage III0, A3-49, 3 Squadron, Royal Australian Air Force, Butterworth AB, Malaysia, 1983 Conclusion I never got to see the Italeri kit when it was first released, so it’s nice of Revell to re-box it. The kit does look very nice and will certainly look stunning in any collection, just a shame that you have to use the separate engine either on the stand or in the aircraft. It would have been nice to have a simpler tube just to fit in the aircraft. Not really knowing the subject I can only go by those who have reviewed the Italeri kit when it comes to accuracy and from what I’ve read it does measure up well with the real aircraft. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  7. Shar2

    T-14 Armata. 1:35

    T-14 Armata Revell 1:35 The T-14 Armata is a next generation Russian main battle tank based on the Armata Universal Combat Platform. It is the first series-produced next generation tank. It has entered serial production, with the first batch of 100 T-14 Armata tanks being deployed with the Taman division, and it is expected to be completed by 2020. The Russian Federation was expecting to order 2,300 new main battle tanks for delivery by 2020. In 2015, Russian media had announced that around 20 tanks had been delivered for testing, without naming a source, and at least seven T-14 Armata tanks appeared in the 2015 and 2016 Moscow Victory Day parade, five in 2017. But in 2016 the Russian defence ministry announced that it had signed a contract for a “test batch” of 100 tanks to be delivered by 2020, with the full project extended until 2025. In July 2018, Deputy Prime Minister for Defence and Space Industry Yury Borisov said there is currently no need to mass-produce the Armata when its older predecessors, namely the latest variants of the T-72, remain "effective against American, German and French counterparts”, saying, “Why flood our military with Armatas, the T-72s are in great demand on the market(s).” Instead, a modernization program of the T-72s, T-80s and T-90s in-service will take precedent. In August 2018, at the ARMY2018 Forum outside Moscow, the Russian Ministry of Defence signed a contract for the purchase of 32 T-14s tanks and 100 T-15 infantry fighting vehicles, with delivery to be finished by 2021 The Model This is a re-boxing of the Zvezda kit from 2016, as such the kit is quite well known and from what I’ve seen is pretty good when built up. Unfortunately Revell have used their own flimsy end opening boxes rather than the strong Zvezda type, but its fine if you don’t want to store it for any length of time. The kit itself is very nicely moulded and come on eight sprues of light grey styrene and a single clear sprue. There are also squares of mesh which need to be cut to size for the engine deck grilles and a small decal sheet. There are no signs of flash or other imperfections and only a few moulding pips. Construction begins with the fitting of the engine deck grilles, using the netting supplied. There are templates in the instructions for the modeller to cut to the correct size. For covers are then fitted on the underside of the grilles. The crew vision ports and hatches are then glued into position on the upper hull section, while on the lower hull section the two, three piece exhausts are assembled and attached, followed by a large panel on the underside. The upper and lower hull are then glued together and two more net grilles are added to the very rear of the ending deck. The rear bulkhead is then fitted with the numerous brackets, towing eyes, and tow hook before being attached to the rear of the model. The two rear mudguards are assembled from three parts and glued into place. The lower glacis plate is then fitted with the attachment points for the various engineering equipment tan can be fitted to most Russian tanks such as dozer blades etc. The front mudguards are then attached, followed by the assembly of the fourteen dual road wheels, idler and drive sprockets. The return rollers, four per side are glued into place, followed by the axles and, where required, the three shock absorbers per side. The idler and sprocket axle covers are also fitted at this point, as is the spaced armour, and spare track links for the rear bulkhead. The road wheels, idler and drive sprockets are now fitted to their respective axles followed by the assembly of the tracks. Each track is made up from link and length with separate guide horns, and while not quite as realistic as individual links can make it easier to assembled for the less experienced modeller. The tracks are then glued into place, but I would normally do this at the end of painting as it’s easier to paint the track and vehicle before fitting. Because of the size of the two, three piece side skirts, it is possible to get away with only making the lower length of track if you’re not too worried about doing something that can’t be seen. You can add the side skirts after painting and fitting of the tracks if you so wish. The engine deck is further detailed with the fitting of hinges, stowage covers, deck armour, cables, and hinge covers. The towing cable is then glued to the rear bulkhead and the upper lengths of the side skirts are also fitted. The attachment arms for the slated armour to the rear of each side of the tank are glued into place followed by the armour itself. Fortunately the arms are moulded integrally with their hinge points, making the setting of the correct angles so much easier than the Takom version of this tank. The turret is now assembled with a plethora of panels, vision blocks, additional armour, grab handles, lifting eyes, and the many defensive launchers. Be aware that there are quite a few panels that have to be fitted internally including the sight doors before the turret ring can be attached, and including the large active defence launch tubes. The main gun is made up from thirteen parts and is fitted to the turret ring section before that turret is closed up. The remote machine gun mounting is made up from twelve parts before being attached to its base and sight consisting of another eight parts. The mounting can be glued into position or left to rotate as required. The turret is then further detailed with additional sensors, aerials and other fittings before being attached to the hull. Decals While there are two paint options, there are only decals for one vehicle, that of the prototype shown at the 2015 Moscow parade. Conclusion Zvezda are gaining a reputation for producing nicely detailed and buildable tanks and have come a long way over the years. This does look a very nice model from the box and there shouldn’t be any need any aftermarket to produce a good looking tank for your collection. There are also numerous paint schemes available to be seen on the internet, so you could try your hand at one of those. It’s great to see Revell re-release this kit as it gives those modellers unsure of buying a Zvezda kit a chance to see what they’re like while being backed by Revell. It also keeps product coming from Revell while they continue their reorganization which will hopefully lead to more self designed releases. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  8. Ready for inspection is my Ki-61 Hien Tony. I received this kit as a birthday present and was looking forward to attempting the infamous camo pattern. Although relatively simple the kit is an old tool, therefore there was a lot of flash and mole hills for rivet detail. Once built, I tackled the camo pattern free hand and was pleased with the way the Vallejo green sat on the silver. I have fashioned a stand for the aircraft (details of this are in my WIP thread). All in all it has been a nice challenging build, and I'm more than happy with the result. Thanks for looking.
  9. Bristol Beaufighter TF.X (03943) 1:48 Revell The Beaufighter was originally developed as a fighter variant of the Beaufort, aiming to utilise as many components from the light bomber as possible to speed development, construction and minimise tooling costs. It didn't quite work out that simply, as it needed additional power that could only be provided by the new Hercules engines that was in development, as even a Merlin engine would leave it underpowered as they later found out. This meant a mid-wing mount had to be created so that the props had sufficient ground clearance, and a skinnier fuselage was used to reduce weight and drag. It was still fairly quick to reach production, and although it wasn't as amazing as the Mosquito, it turned out to be a good multirole aircraft, able to assume roles for which it was never intended for. The TF.X was a later mark that was adapted to carry a torpedo slung under its belly, and mounted two Hercules XVII engines that had been tuned for low-altitude performance to improve the crew's chances of survival during an attack. Over 2,000 were built, and they were colloquially referred to as the Torbeau. The Kit This is a completely new tool from Revell, and one of the first to be released from the newly reinvigorated company, and the first new tooling of a Beaufighter for a long time. It arrives in one of their chunky end-opening boxes (think 1:48 Tornado), and inside are a lot of sprues in pale grey styrene, nineteen in all, with a trio of small clear sprues, the decal sheet and new-style colour instruction booklet with the obligatory safety warning sheet tucked inside. There are 188 parts in total, and when you pull the wing sprue out of the box you realise that the Beau was quite a large aircraft. Surface detail of the aircraft's skin is restrained, with lots of fine engraved panel lines, and even what appears to be an attempt at replicating the unevenness of the skin of the aircraft around the fuselage sides and on the nose cones, some of which you won't use. You get a full length floor inside the fuselage with plenty of interior details, which also includes the wing roots as seen from the inside, the equipment in the back and the observer's seat base. Construction begins with the cockpit, which is placed at the front (shocker!) of the internal floor, with a portion of the forward spar at the rear, bracing structure and a three sided console in front, onto which the instrument panel is fixed, and a decal can be added if you don't fancy painting it yourself. Rudder pedals are moulded-in, and a control column drops into a slot in the centre of the floor, with the comfortable-looking seat (with moulded-in belts) against the spar. The rear spar forms the box, and this is full height, with moulded-in doors into the rear compartment, and two ammo drums behind feeding the belly cannons. Behind that is the base for the observer's chair, which also has lap belts moulded-in, another bulkhead behind that, which can either contain a pair of doors in a smooth bulkhead, or a framework that has a central equipment rack in it. Behind that door is an empty space with the tail wheel well at the end, which is moulded into the floor as a curved box, and can accept the tail wheel in either deployed or stowed positions by using a different strut on the same wheel. The lower access hatch is fixed to the hole in the floor, and the fuselage can then be closed around it, after de-flashing some holes along the top seam. The nose cone is separate, and you have a choice of the large thimble-nosed one with radar, or the original sleek nose that gives the Beau such a nice line. The canopy is fitted next, and has an apron in front of the windscreen moulded-in to make fitting it easier, and a separate top panel for the pilot's exit. The gun-sight is also clear, and needs partially painting before installation, which would look more realistic if you add some clear green to the edges of the glazing to simulate thickness. The rear crew member's dome is able to be fitted open or closed, and a machine gun mount can be put in place in either position, with the closed dome having a small hole in the rear to admit the gun barrel. Now for the wings. The lower wing is a full width piece, and includes a short length of the lower fuselage to give it a good fit. Four small holes must be opened up in this area before proceeding, after which the gear bays are constructed in the lower half of the "power egg" from individual panels and a front bulkhead. Behind them the flap bay is completed by the addition of an upstand part that spans the gap between lower and upper skins. This is of course repeated in both sides, and the upper wings are glued in place once this step is completed, then the flush landing light, the supercharger intakes and wingtip lights can be added along with the inner and outer sections of the flaps, which can be posed open or closed, by adjusting the leading edge tabs that are present. The ailerons are each two parts and these fit on pins and can be left loose or posed how you see fit. Next up are the engines, and these are depicted fully with two banks of pistons and plenty of nice detail. The exhaust collector ring and the forward cooling vanes are all there, although a little bit of wiring will be needed to complete the look. The exhaust section section the three cowling sections all build up around the front ring, and then you have a choice of adding open or closed cooling flaps, by using one or other of the sets provided glued to the aft of the cowling. This is done twice of course, and the engines aren't handed, so the exhausts are on the same side, as are the hedgehog flame hiders that trail along the nacelles, which have glare shields over them to protect the pilot's night vision. A choice of large or small intakes are fitted to the top of the cowlings, and the tiny rear tip of the nacelle under the wing finishes off that section. The tail of the Beau is noticeably cranked upward with quite a large dihedral on this variant, and here you have a choice of two styles, one of which has a straight line fit of the elevators, the other is stepped, requiring a complete set of parts for each. The trim actuators are shared parts, and the elevators are separate and can be posed to taste if you wish. The tail fin isn't moulded into the fuselage, but fits into a slot on the top of the elevator assembly, with a choice of a fin with a fillet or without, using the same rudder parts, and again allowing you to pose the rudder deflected if you wish. The filleted part needs a hole cutting in the top of the fuselage to stabilise the fillet, so make careful measurements to find the flashed over slot if you didn't open it up previously. The main landing gear can be left off totally if you are posing your model in flight, with the single piece gear bay doors dropped into the aperture in the bottom of the nacelles. If you are building the landing gear down, you will need to construct the H-shaped legs in stages, sandwiching the two-part wheels between the halves as you go, and this completed assembly is attached to a small section of the spar for ease of attachment. This is glued into the front of the bay, with another set of retraction jacks fitted diagonally from the bay rear into the lower section of the leg, and the door closing mechanism running along the lip of the bays. The single door panel is split lengthways and added half to each side of the bay, and the prop is fixed to the front, either with or without a spinner, which has a backplate for completeness. Then it's a case of fitting a pitot under the wing, aerial on the fuselage, and the main build is complete. All that remains is to build up the torpedo from two halves plus a large H-tail, fit it to two C-shaped attachment points, and it's finished. Markings There are two options on the decal sheet, which span two pages each due to the generous sizing of the profiles. As you might guess, one option has the fin fillet, and the other doesn't. The fillet-less machine does have a fetching set of D-Day stripes however, which always prove popular, but you'll be masking and painting them yourself, as they aren't provided as decals, which shouldn't be seen as a negative in my experience, as getting large decals to settle on curved surfaces can be a pain at times. S/N. NE429 "P6-S" No.489 (NZ) Squadron, RAF Langham, England, July 1944 S/N. RD467 "QM.J" No.254 Squadron, RAF North Coates, England May 1945 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion Whilst the other manufacturer's offering in this scale is well liked, it's good to have a choice, and this is a very detailed modern tooling that includes plenty of parts, and will be readily available due to Revell's large distribution network. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  10. Shelliecool

    Ki-61 Hien "Tony"

    My next build, as chosen by my 7 year old son is Revell's 1:72 Ki-61 Hien "Tony." This aircraft was one of the few Japanese fighters in WWII to have an inline engine, and was used as a fighter bomber. Here come the compulsory box photo's.... So the kit is relatively simple, and contains a set of instructions, and small decal sheet. I plan to airbrush some of the decals (the white stripe on the fuselage, red stripe on the tail etc). There are two small sprues with fuselage and other parts, top and bottom wing sections and a clear canopy. The sprues are a little flashy, and there are alot of raised rivet style details on the fuselage and wings. Aside from the airbrushing, this will be an out of the box build, with the small addition of a stand as I plan to build Tony inflight. Time to crack on with the build, that's all for now.
  11. Buying something from Amazon I needed something to take me up to the magic twenty squids and free postage, so I had put this little fellow in my "save for later" basket some time ago for just such a day. I usually top up with Vallejo paints but this time I needed a fiver so this little chap for six squids was just the job. Quick little throwaway bit of fun... But when I opened it. Well it isn't a bad little model. So I started thinking about "doing something" with it. Anyhoo, more on the MF model and what I decided to "do" with it later, I decided I wanted something to display it on. Probably my favourite Star Wars moment is when the Millennium Falcon swoops down on Darth Vader closing in on Luke in the trench and takes out his wingman causing DV to abort and Han shouts "Yahoo, you're in the clear kid, let's blow this thing and go home!" So a bit of Death Star scenery is required. A Laser turret. Nothing commercially available that I know of (apart from the Bandai kits and I don't think there is anything suitable?) Anyway I'll just scratchbuild one... First off find some scale plans. The best I could find was Adam Savage's "Tested" website (yes, the "Mythbusters" guy) Build a Studio Scale Death Star Laser Tower It is more concerned with a CAD/CAM model but the drawing gave me a starting point. So, plasticard and tools to hand off we go... So that is where I'm at. You can see I have started on the "Laser Guns" using plastic tubing or different diameters but I need to "greeblie" them up a bit. The thing that looks like the buffer plate from a steam locomotive is to locate the lasers guns behind the curved plate (making them moveable was decreed as a step too far!) What started as a little basket filler has turned into a project. I think the turret is probably too big but the Death Star was a "BIG" thing so who really knows. I was amused to find out that the sets that depict the interior of the Millennium Falcon would not have fitted inside the full 1:1 model that was built at Elstree for filming the scenes in "A New Hope" and that full model was used for the scenes on Tatooine and on the Death Star without being moved, they rebuilt the sets around the model! If anyone is interested in any of the techniques I have used please ask. Peace out.
  12. Hallo again This is my Focke Wulf 190 F-8 from Revell in 1/32. All painting and insignia are as explained in: Happy modelling
  13. Corsairfoxfouruncle

    Its a Deuce !

    Hello Everybody ... Im going to jump in with this. I will be doing it in the markings of the 431st F.I.S. Out of Zaragoza Spain in 1961. It will look like this in the end. When I came back to modeling a few years ago I looked hi and lo for a Duece. It became my proverbial unicorn. I was a very happy person when Revell re-popped these and I quickly grabbed one. To be honest I have been a bit nervous to start it though. I waited long enough to start this and cant think of a better place than a group build setting to do it. I will post the obligatory sprue shots later today when i can get into my office. Hopefully i wont let myself or you folks down with this build. Dennis
  14. This is another Strike Eagle built for the F-15 Program Office director upon his retirement. The aircraft itself is built out of the box, the cockpit bits left out and the canopy painted over to match similar desk models. There is a block of wood epoxied inside the keel to accept the brass pins of the acrylic stand and the fuselage filled with expanding foam to add some rigidity. Most of the stores come from Hasegawa weapon sets. I think all the markings are from the Revell kit, with the exception of the crew names below the windscreen. As was my practice, the pilot name was always the person receiving the model. The remaining names were usually co-workers. The acrylic stand is covered with cling film to avoid fingerprints until the model was presented. Panel lines were accented with a Paine's Grey oil wash applied over the ModelMaster enamels finish. We (the F-15 office) had just recently certified the Sniper targeting pod for carriage and. operation on the F-15E, so I had to put one on this model. The pod is my own resin casting, and it is slightly over-scale (didn't have time to try to make another master and mold). We had also just cleared a modification to add a satcom radio to the Strike, so I had to add that as well. I didn't add the radio components, but you'll notice there is a slightly raised square frame around the antenna location ahead of the windscreen. This is where we put the satcom antenna, replacing the ADF antenna. Only problem was the antenna aperture covering would start to delaminate at high speed. The quick fix, to get the mod out to the deployed OIF/OEF units, was to add a metal frame covering the edges and protecting them from the air flow. Simple but effective, and still out there today. The feedback from the crews was that it gave the Strike a little more character. I liked this kit enough that I bought one for myself, even though I normally only build 1/72 for my collection. I did keep a small stock on hand just in case I was asked for a model on short notice. Luckily, one of the local craft stores usually stocked this kit and often used to issue coupons for either 40 or 50 percent off one item, so the price was never too dear. Now that I've retired, I'll have to dispose of a couple of kits eventually - the calls asking me to provide a going away model have finally stopped. Thanks for looking, Sven
  15. Hi Everyone, This is the first time I have posted a model in the RFI section. As the title suggests this is the recent 1/72 tool Hawk from Revell (04921). The kit is good despite surprising amounts of flash for its age and bright red plastic (well it is a Red Arrows kit after all). As the kit only includes the very early short fin fillet and curved rear of the fuselage, I decided to complete it as XX164 of the Central Flying School, RAF Valley 1979. This meant I had to modify the kit seats to add the wider headbox. These were completed with homemade masking tape belts. I also lengthened the intake scoops behind the canopy, as these are too short in the kit. Various other details were scratch built like the pitot tube (albion alloys brass tube) and underside antennas (plasticard). The kit features no intake trunking, so these were blocked off with covers scratch built also from plasticard, referencing photos online. The moulded in beacons on the spine and ahead of the airbrake were replaced with offcuts of the clear sprue, sanded to shape. Photos online suggested that this aircraft lacked the blade antenna on the spine in its early days, so I left it off. The main decals are from Xtradecal's X72-166 set and the stencils are from the X72-168 set from the same company. The model was primed with UMP white followed by Mr Hobby's White and Light Aircraft Grey. The red was Revell Aqua Gloss Fiery Red. After some light weathering in was coated with Ammo by Mig Lucky Varnish Satin. The canopy detonation cord was hand painted as the detail is raised on the inside. I have plenty more Hawk decals left from the Xtradecal sets so I will have to build some more In the future. I hope you enjoy. Mark.
  16. Around 2001, I was working in the F-15 System Program Office (in the USAF, the notorious SPO) we were responsible for the acquisition of F-15s and related upgrades. I was the chief of the test division. Like most units in the US military, parting gifts are bestowed to those leaving the office in good stead, be it retirement or transfer to another unit. Most units, as a minimum, give the departee what has become known as the "crumby squadron plaque", often a metal unit shield on a piece of wood with a brass plate engraved with the person's name and dates of service with the unit. For a long time, the F-15 SPO crumby squadron plaque was an 8"x10" framed mirror with half of a solid model F-15A affixed to the mirror with the appropriate brass plate. Certainly more distinctive than the unit emblem, which in our case was pretty weak anyway. One of my test managers was leaving the office for the F-16 SPO (oh the gall), and I decided he deserved something more than a crumby squadron plaque. This was the result: one of my prior crumby squadron plaques in the background... It's a Revell 1/48 Kit with stores from the Hasegawa weapons sets. The white data instrumentation pod is a cut down AIM-9. Orange is the typical color denoting a piece of equipment that has been modified for test purposes, in other words, don't mess with it unless you really know what you're doing. In the image above, the orange patches replicate the sheet metal coverings for the empty cannon bay on the actual aircraft. The orange portions on the GBU-31 Joint Direct Attack Munition below, indicate an instrumented weapon - usually one with inertial measuring devices and telemetry units to send data back to mission control. The markings are home made, printed on Experts Choice laser decal paper. The unit markings are for a jet with the 40th Flight Test Squadron at Eglin AFB. The airframe itself is built OOB with the cockpit details omitted. The fuselage is filled with expanding insulating foam to give it some rigidity. A wooden block is epoxied inside on the keel to give the brass pins in the acrylic stand something to hold on to. All paints are ModelMaster enamels. The orange patches on the underside represent mounting plates use for carrying stores separation cameras. Pin wash is Paine's Grey oils. Of course after this, others in the office were asking me to make other models for people leaving. I did quite a few, and at one point I was making models for the office and not putting a dent in my own expanding stash. I eventually put a stop to it (after about ten years!) but I did do one just before I retired a couple of years ago, an F-15QA. I've got images of that around here somewhere! Thanks for looking, Sven
  17. This was my choice for a quick build between finishing HMS Muskeeter and whatever I pick up at Telford, unfortunatly it rapidly turned into a nightmare............... no fault of the kit which is great (no Hunter expert this is the first i've ever built but it seemed like a very nice kit, if there's any real issues with it I didn't fix them!) Right from the off things went wrong Paint finish is a mess..... white turned yellow, masking was crooked, red overspray on grey areas, the red wingtips should extend further inboard (should have looked at pics instead of just relying on the xtradecal instructions) I then managed to place the two upperwing roundals assymetrically which meant positioning of the scratchbuilt pylon lumps on the upper surface were wrongly positioned..... and to round it all off I managed to pull the starboard serial number off with an errant piece of masking tape just before finishing up.... ETC Arrrhhhh really glad this ones behind me, may well build another in the future as the subject and kit look good (won't bother with the flightpath detail set as it proved to be a bit of a fiddly pain in the A***)
  18. Shar2

    Kanonejagdpanzer 90, 1:35

    Kanonejagdpanzer 90 Revell 1:35 By 1960, the M47 Patton old 90 mm was still a potent weapon. Pending replacement in the Bundeswehr, it was decided to reuse it in German-made tank-hunters. General design tended to be close to the very successful ww2 era Jagdpanzer IV. Specifications were made and transmitted to three manufacturers, the German Hanomag and Henschel and Swiss MOWAG which produced prototypes. After trials, only Hanomag and Henschel were retained for pre-production. the KnJgPz-90 was indeed closely based on the wartime tank-hunter, which was derived from the Panzer IV. However, this was only superficially as the sloped armour was mostly copied from it. Everything else, from the chassis, suspensions, engine and transmission, armament and targeting devices, fire control, etc. were genuine. The hull was longer, but narrower and lighter than the original vehicle. The frontal armor was not 80 but 50 mm in thickness (still around a 80 mm equivalent) also on the sides, and 10 mm on the bottom and roof, engine deck and rear plating. The mantlet allowed a 15° traverse and -8° to +15° elevation/depression. The hull upper armour was stepped on the rear engine compartment. The driver sat on the right, with a hatch above him, and there was a secondary periscope at the left of the gun. There was a secondary hatch behind the driver, and a commander cupola to the rear, left of the fighting compartment. The drive train consisted of five doubled-road wheels independently sprung on torsion arms, with three return rollers, rear drive sprocket and front idler. One machine-gun was coaxial in the mantlet, the other was externally mounted on the second hatch ring. The main gun carried 51 rounds 4000 were stored for both 7.62 mm machine-guns. The KnJgPz-90 was protected NBC and fitted with infrared vision and targeting system. The vehicle was considered a success, due to its low profile and superior mobility, compared with the high profile of the M47/48 Patton series. However, by the time USSR unveiled its T-64 and later T-72, the KnJgPz-90 was considered obsolete. The manufacturers proposed it was up-gunned with the latest 105 mm, but in 1983 it was decided to convert 163 of these as Raketenjagdpanzer Jaguar 2 anti-tank guided missile carriers, firing TOW wire-guided missiles, which was far more effective. These vehicles also received extra modifications like spaced and perforated armour. A few others were derived as Beobachtungspanzer (without the main gun) to guide mortar units. The regular vehicles were gradually phased and put in reserve. The last were in active commission with the Heimatschutztruppe by 1990. The Model While the kit was originally released in 2008, it feels like it is much older than that in my befuddled memory. That said it is a typical Revell product that is packaged in their flimsy end opening box. The mouldings are good, with no signs of flash or other imperfections on any of the parts. Inside the box are nice sprues of grey styrene four lengths of rubber tracks a length of fine wire and the decal sheet. Detail is average to slightly above average, and if the modeller wanted they could add quite a bit more, but replacing the kit barrel with a metal one is all the modeller would really need to do. The build looks nice and straight forward with nothing really to catch anyone out. There are two variants that cvan be built from the one kit, the Panzerjagdpanzer, (PaJaKa), or Beobachtungpanzer, (BeobPz). The build begins with the assembly of the ten road wheels, each pair of which is attached to their respective axle and finished off with the outer hub. For those that like working tracks the wheels are made so that they can rotate. The same goes for the six return rollers, two idlers and two sprocket wheels. The tracks lengths are then joined together by passing the pins through the holes and melting the pins with a hot screwdriver or your preferred device. The wheel assemblies are then glued to the lower hull and the tracks fitted. Naturally, you can leave the tracks off until after painting. The two upper hull sections are joined together, followed by the upper hull sides all of whom require holes to be drilled out before the assembly is glued to the lower hull and the front mudguards attached. The upper hull is then festooned with detail parts, such as headlights, towing eyes, brackets, spare track links in their holders, and ID plates. There are also a pair of Jerry cans and their holders attached to the rear bulkhead, as is a five piece box, which looks like it could be an NBCD filter. The rear bulkhead is also fitted with a two piece stowage basket, light clusters, clamps, brackets and some pioneer tools. The engine deck is fitted with a pair of grilles, exhaust, more pioneers tools, vents, smoke launcher mountings. The bank of eight smoke dischargers are then fitted to the mountings, while on the fighting compartment roof is fitted with a pair of aerial bases, and aerials made from the thin wire provided in the kit. The commanders cupola is made up from two parts, as is the gunners. The drivers position has three vision blocks and the hatch hinge glued into place. The modeller then has the option of fitting the three piece MG 3 for the PaJaPa of a two piece optical sight for the BeobPz version. The main armament is then assembled. This begins with the IR light box that sits on top of the main gun, followed by the two piece mantle and two piece barrel, which could be replaced with an RB metal one should you desire. The barrel is glued into the mantel, along with two machine gun muzzles, with the IR box sitting on top via to mounting brackets. The whole assembly is then glued to the front of the glacis plate. If you’re building the observation vehicle, leave the barrel and IR light off and fit the blank into the mantle hole instead. The model is finished off with the fitting of the last detail part that include the option of two types of rear-view mirrors, two more light fixtures, light guards, towing eyes, and more pioneer tools. Decals There are three decal options for the PaKaJa and one for the BeobPa, the decals are quite nicely printed with good opacity and in register. The options are:- Kanonenjagdpanzer of Panzerjaegerkompanie 160 based at Schwarzenbek, North East Germany, 1980/81. Kanonenjagdpanzer 5 of Panzergrenadierbatallion 353, based in Hammelburg, Bavaria, 1984. Kanonenjagdpanzer 2 of Panzergrenadierbatallion 44, based in Gottingen, Lower Saxony, 1980. Beobachtungpanzer 6, of Panzergrenadierbatallion 152, based in Schwarzenborn, Hesse. Conclusion It’s nice to see this kit re-released although I really thought it was much older than it really is. It certainly will be a nice, relatively simple build that would make for a great first kit or for a quick weekend mojo rejuvenating build. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  19. Allllllrighty then! My recent conversion from the dark side (Armour), and ensuing Mojo restoration and reinvigoration has resulted in my actually finishing something, albeit two builds belonging to my teenage son, who incidentally still has not noticed that my S.O.D. has nudged his to one side, but that is a horse of a different colour, the upshot of all this is that like a convert to anything, not smoking, not drinking, bdsm, I find myself compelled to "spread the good news"! So for you good people here tonight I will begin the hopefully short WIP of my first build for ME since the early 90`s when I had a go at a Hasegawa Blackhawk and a Hind! The "Leg Iron" has gone to France for a couple of weeks during the interminable summer break that teachers get, so I reasoned that a brief trip to the local model shop (Waterlooville model shop, although it`s actually in Portsmouth) would not be spotted, the juices were bubbling and I needed a fix and I found two kits that got me revving, I read a lot, and two of my recent reads will resonate with a lot of people on here, " Carrier Pilot" by norman Hanson and "On and off the flight deck" by Hank Adlam, so when I saw this I thought this is a go! Now I`m not going to detail all the arguments regarding the accuracy of this kit, either way there are pluses and minuses but at less than seven quid I`m happy! I had a search on the site for builds of this kit, there is one currently going on although putting a link in and so forth is currently beyond me, I`ll not insult your intelligence by pretending I've not had a cider or two, but it` s saturday night! Now, the main issues as far as I could make out were broad chord prop and for want of a better name "drop tanks", on the other build the broad chord prop was brought in later than the serial number of the kits serial number, so I need a later serial number, So we`ll go with the FAA Corsair decals from Eaglecals, nice late serial number there! (can you guess the next build?) "Drop tanks"? bin em.............. Along with the decals I got a "Big Ed" set of seat belts/harnesses for allsorts, so I read that Corsair IV`s were fitted with Q type harnesses , that's dealt with, Ok, it`s sideways but it`s a canopy mask set, but it was well cheap! Job jobbed! So I just thought I would have a quick look at the various bits and bobs............................. All washed and gleaming, whats not to like? Yeah these fell off, but they're ok! And then BOOM! the thing built it`s self..........................almost The wings went together without issue, there was a bit of fettling with the coolers, but seriously, five minutes............ a swipe of filler and these will be good to go.................. engine and cockpit were quick and easy, nice detail and in the booth quicker than you could say knife! And finally for today a shot of stynylrez before painting tomorrow................. So that's me done for today, minimum aftermarket and half the kit built in an afternoon............just like being 12 again! Granto
  20. I thought I would start her with my first post, a rather challenging conversion of Revell's 1:24 London Bus into the Knight Bus from the Harry Potter film the Prisoner of Azkaban. following some fairly in-depth research I decided that a conversion using two kits should be possible, along the way some conversion would also be necessary to change the bus from an AEC Routmaster RML to the older AEC Regent III on which the bus in the film is based ( the book illustrations do show a Triple-Decker Routmaster, but I wanted this to be a copy of the bus seen in the film Work will include shortening the body by removing the 'central bay' to make a standard wheelbase Routemaster Modifying the top deck especially the front and rear sections to accept the new top floor Fitting out the interior with chandelier and berths for sleeping wizards Thanks for watching, any help and advice gratefully received Jim
  21. Finally I have mostly cleared my bench of part started kits and renovation works that had got piled up over the last year and years.So today there will be quite an amount of airliners showing up on BM...So here is No.1... Last year I was lucky to find another Revell Convair 990 kit on a Swiss auction platform. Together with that kit,the seller also sent me a completed model,which was in a very sorry state. It must have been some decades old already and it was mostly unpainted,just the top was hand painted white.The rest was unpainted palstic with the Swissair decals applied. It sat on my desk for quite a while,until I had my plans ready for a complete redo,repair and repaint work on this classic Revell kit. The first task was to get rid of the old paint,Revells Paint remover worked perfectly for this. Then the unpainted landing gear had to go and all the seams hat to be puttied and sanded smooth as well as some repair work that had to be done. The landing gear was replaced with an unused set that I had left over from my first Revell CV-990 which I built in-flight. After all clean-up and repairwork was completed,it was time for the new paint and livery. I chose the prototype scheme which I think is very elegant. The superb decal set comes from Vintage Flyers and is really nice to work with. For the white I used Testors Classic White,the natural metal parts are painted with Revell metallics and finished with a light coat of Future to give it a nice and shiny appearance. I hope you like it
  22. Hi guys, I will build the 1/72 Revell B-17F. I will build it out of the box including one of the options. The option I chose is "the Shamrock Special" It is a plane from the 8th Air Force and belonged to the 401st Bomber Squadron that was attached to the 91st Bomber Group. Here are some pictures of what is in the box. The plane I chose. And I have already started the model this weekend at a SIG meeting from the IPMS. I have made the bombbay and placed it on the left fuselage halve. It is not much, but a start. Cheers,
  23. This is probably one of the rarest Revell kits nowadays. The first release was in 1957 with only 2 or 3 re-releases the following years,one being a Revell/Lodela kit with VARIG decals and one with a special livery of an American football team if I remember correctly. As with the Revell Convair 990 kit,I also found this rarity on a Swiss auction plattform,and also here I got together ,with the new kit,a finished one with some missing parts and apart from the applied decals,it was completely unpainted. As there are no aftermarked parts available,it was not easy to repair this kit. One wing had the propellers missing as well as the spinners and the rear cabin door was also gone. I decided to leave the propellers and mount it on one of those original Revell swivel stands and present it in-flight with "turning" props...by simply fit in new spinners that I found in my spares box.The are not completely accurate but they do the trick. I wanted to rebuild the kit in its original markings and I also found a wonderful new set at Vintage Flyers. My first attempt of painting an all-natural metal fuselage left me not very satisfied,so I went for a,at least for me, new approach. When I found a picture of a flying American Airlines Electra with that shiny bare-metal fuselage,I decided to use Bare-Metal foil to wrap the whole fuselage to achieve the same result. It was a tedious task and took hours to apply all the foils but the final result is very pleasing. The wings and engines are painted with Testors aluminium as these parts didn't look as hiny on the picture as the rest of the plane. Compared to the Minicraft 1/144 kit,Revells over 60 years old offering is far more accurate than the Minicraft version.It also has its faults,but the overall look beats the Minicraft in my opinion. Too bad that Revell altered the moulds to create the Orion out of it,so its impossible to ever see a re-release of this gem. The Electra logo on the stand comes from the original Revell decal set.It was stiff as a board but I managed to get it on the stand with lots of decal softener and laquer... Enjoy
  24. Revell´s Ho 229 was my firts decalled model, it´s nice to have build a new one after so much time. I don´t remember my first Ho 229 having such a bad fit on the canopy though.
  25. This is the very nice Revell kit of the Concorde,that has been around for ages now and it still is available. I built already one and enjoyed it very much. When I came across this decal set from 26,I decided to buy another kit and have a go. British Airways and Singapore Airlines co-operated on the London-Bahrain-Singapore route and thus one of BAs Concordes wore that hybrid scheme. As only BA and Air France operated the Concorde,this scheme is a nice change and addition for my supersonic collection Enjoy And with "Something else"...the famous Air France Pepsi Concorde