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Found 1,585 results

  1. This is my entry. I thought about Burma Banshee P40 but decided to safe it for a P-40 STGB. So it will be stang. ~Hope it could be as good as Warhawk 8-) And some work I've done yesterday evening....
  2. Fw.190A-8/R-2 Sturmbock (03874) 1:32 Revell The Fw.190 was one of the primary German fighters in WWII, and was intended to replace the Bf.109 but ended up fighting alongside it for the rest of the war. Its appearance gave the Allies a shock that spurred further development of the Spitfire, which it outclassed in terms of speed initially. Continuous improvement of the A series led to the A-8, which benefited from previous iterations and used the BMW 801 engine with an emergency boost system and adding extra armour to protect its power plant. The R-2 field modification had the two 20mm outer wing mounted cannons replaced with 30mm Mk.108 cannons as they had a similar muzzle velocity but packed a bigger punch. This extra punch led to it being given the nickname Sturmbock, which translates to "Battering Ram". The Kit This is a reboxing with additional parts based on the initial 2015 tooling of the F-8, which was then re-released as an A-8/R11 nightfighter later on. It arrives in one of Revell's large end-opening box that folks aren't so keen on, and inside are nine sprues in Revell's usual pale grey/greenish styrene, three small sprues of clear parts, decal sheet and instruction booklet in the new colourful style, which also has the colour profiles for the markings on the rear pages. Detail is good throughout with engraved panel lines and fasteners, although if you're expecting a full complement of rivets all over the model that will be down to you and your riveting tool, plus a few hours of careful work. The clear parts are good where they are single layer, but where they are double-layered to depict the additional armoured glass, the thickness has caused some shrinkage that gives the finished articles a distorted look. Construction begins with a choice of wheels up or wheels down, and whether you will use the stand, which informs the number and position of holes that you need to drill in the multipurpose upper and lower wings. With that out of the way the cockpit tub is adorned with rudder pedals, control column, seat and the lower section of the instrument panel, for which there is a dial decal included on the sheet. The upper instrument panel is made up separately with its own decal then inserted into the coaming from below along with the gunsight and its clear lenses. The nose-mounted gun deck is then made up and attention shifts to the tail gear to allow you to close the fuselage. There is a choice of two sizes of tail wheel tyre with a two-part hub and two more parts for the tyres, which are then fitted to one of two struts depending on whether you are deploying the landing gear or not. The coaming and tail wheel are fitted to the starboard fuselage half, which will require painting before you proceed as it would be too much to get it done after joining the halves. The rest of the cockpit is inserted from below before the wings are added and the empty gun compartment floor is put in place. The lower wing is full width and has a short spar added to its inner surface that also makes up one wall of the landing gear bays, and have the barrels for the cannons projecting through it. The barrels are slide-moulded with hollow muzzles, but the breech isn't included and behind the bulkhead another stiffening panel is added flat against the wing part. Each bay is a single part with bay detail moulded in with a large square socket for the landing gear to be added later, and at the aft edge of the bays near the centre, the vertical ammo boxes are dropped into place by lining up with the spent casing chutes. Before the wings are finished, the beginnings of the engine mount is glued to the firewall, then the lower wing is fitted under the fuselage and the top wings halves are decked out with ailerons and cannon bulges as befits the type then attached to the lower wing and fuselage fairings. Only the external barrels of the Mk.108 cannons are supplied for the outer station, but these at least have hollow muzzles The flap bays are moulded into the upper wings with simple ribs portraying the detail and allowing you to pose the flaps open or closed by using different parts. The tail has all posable parts that attach in the usual tab and slot manner, and then the engine becomes the focus. The BMW 801 radial engine is where the majority of the detail in this kit is to be found, and comes complete with two banks of pistons, push-rods, exhaust collector and hollow-tipped outlets, plus all the ancillary equipment except for the wiring harness that you'll have to weave yourself. It is fitted between the two bulged "cheek panels" that attach to the leading edges of the wing and fuselage, with the nose ring added after. Later on the rest of the cowling panels are installed in either the open or closed position as you see fit, and they have some detail moulded inside them but the purists may wish to add more. The main gear of the 190 is a single strut with separate oleo-scissors and a captive bay door. The two-part tyres can be either smooth or radial tread and have two hub parts with a hole in the back to attach to the axle. They fit into the aforementioned slot and are set to the correct angle by joining up the retraction jack with a scrap diagram showing the slightly canted inward stance of the real thing. For the in-flight option a simpler set of struts and thin half-tyre/hub are supplied on the same sprue that attach to a different pair of doors and fit flush to the lower wing, showing a little rubber through the omission of the inner doors as was common on some variants. As the build draws to a close the canopy is started, adding the windscreen first then the sliding canopy with optional armour panels and different parts if you are posing it open or closed. The rail and head armour are common between each installation, and scrap diagrams show how far back the head armour should be in both positions. The crew step, underwing antenna, DF loop, pitot probe and clear wingtip lights are added around the model, and the prop with its spinner, backplate and cooling fan are fitted to the axle protruding from the engine block, then it's a case of building up the drop-tank and hanging it from the streamlined central pylon and deciding whether you're going to pose it on the stand or not. The stand is a substantial chunk of plastic with a large circular base that has chamfered sides, a tapering tubular stand, and yoke at the top that straddles the fuel tank and fits into the holes you're supposed to have drilled out if you are planning on using it. There are a few minor sink-marks on the flat top of the base that should respond well to some filler, and once painted it looks quite sturdy and professional. Markings The decals are printed by Zanetti for Revell and the large decal sheet contains two options, which are as follows: Wk.Nr. 682204 5./JG 300, Löbnitz, Oct 1944 Wk.Nr. 680718 12./JG3, Barth, Germany, May 1944 The decals have good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas, and include seatbelt and instrument panel decals along with a good number of stencils. Conclusion A good kit of the Fw.190 that suffers from mild glazing issues due to shrinkage, with a well-detailed engine and the added cachet that the impressive armament and nickname brings. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  3. Number 3 for July and 13 done for 2019, our Russian Tank Factory is humming along nicely : Ghastly abomination of a new tool kit from Revell AG, the RFI will show more but truly awful release and vastly inferior to their not so great 1996 effort. That said it looks pretty, even with the wrong markings for a clip tip but necessary as the right ones had opaque carrier film, As usual my integrated Surfacer 1500/Mr Color/Mr Super UV Cut III all thinned with Mr Leveling , system was employed. No drama in this quick build, As its headed out for auction no aerial wire and pre attached pitot of course. That said if you're looking for an accurate MKVb, then keep looking, Buy this and you will regret it the minute you open the box. But awful kits don't really bother me as long as the basic shapes are right so more than adequate for me but YMMV. WIP Beauty shots Mazeltov! Anil
  4. This the old Revell kit, in the "Hunt for Red October" boxing, from 1990. I built it circa 2005-07 I'd guess. I did use an aftermarket decal set, the SuperScaleInternational set 48-346. It’s pretty much built OOB, with just a few added details. The paint was ModelMaster and Humbrol enamels, applied with my Paasche Model H. So, once again, another “four-footer” from Texas. Thank you for your interest, and thanks for looking in. Please leave comments, good or bad!
  5. Hi, About 40 years ago I've built the Revell USS Hornet +3. In the age of the Apollo project this was an fun kit to build with the Apollo capsule and Sea King helicopters. Today those old memorys and the 50 years that has gone since the moon landing made me want to build that kit again. But nowdays I knew norr about the Revell kits and the fact that the Hornet kit originated from the USS Essex kit. During those years that kit has been reissues with new parts several times. Now I wonder what those new parts consisted of and if there is spare aircrafts to get to those Revell USS Essex / Hornet kits. Which aircraft types could one find in the box? Cheers / André https://www.scalemates.com/kits/revell-h353-uss-essex-cva-9--237725
  6. Having visited my local Hobbycraft recently I found they’d stocked up with a bunch of Starwars kits so for a measly £6 I thought I’d dip my feet into the world of SciFi. This kit is the Level 3 version of the Snowspeeder, not the click together series 1. It went together really easily and was a fun build. The colours aren’t probably 100% accurate, but who cares, it’s just a bit of fun! Ah, spot the deliberate mistake...I forgot to remove the masking tape off the rear window!
  7. Another model from the Pacific War. All known Revell's Mustang. I am very satisfied with the fitting, especially the decals. The model is Tex Hill's plane. Here's the picture :
  8. As promised in the WIP-section, some pictures of the completed Diablo. A few build-pictures can be found there as well as a little more info. Wiper deliberately left off as it seemed massively overscaled and wouldn't fit correctly. Couldn't be bothered, to be honest. Maybe someday I'll do or find a better one. Probably not. First some shots from all sides, trying to catch the model as well as the aggressive pose. Next some Moneyshots for your preferenced car magazine I love that reflection from the flash on the badges edge I love those rims. Kit chrome stripped. Completely painted in Vallejo Model Air Aluminium, black wash all over, outer ring and Lugnuts Molotov chrome. Badge is Kit decal and fitted perfectly. I hope you like it. Not perfect, but fun and quick to build. Pictures were taken in its recent display place in our bookshelf. Quite a critical colour combination to take good pictures of.
  9. This model was completed on Sunday, Jan.1 2017. It was started in mid-July 2013! It is one of my last two completed builds. At some point, it was relegated to a safe spot and more or less abandoned. I would dust her off from time to time, always thinking I’d get back to work on the kit but again, time would soon find her back on the shelf. Not long before the holiday season just past, I started yet again and with a new resolve to finish her and move on to other builds. The model represents aircraft number 501(build number 161685) of Navy squadron VM-85. It took part in the Navy’s attacks on Libyan patrol boats in the Gulf of Sidra, March 1986. The aircraft carries two AGM-84 Harpoon anti-ship missiles and three drop-tanks. I am not sure that that is the exact load-out for 501 on any actions there but it’s close enough for me. The paint is Model Master enamel; dark ghost gray on top, light ghost gray underneath. The decals are from “The Intruder’s Sandbox” set by AOA decals. I had a couple fairly good reference photos of this aircraft and that helped as I tried to replicate the worn, patchy appearance of those Intruders. The ochre colored anti-erosion tape seen on the leading edges is clear decal film sprayed with Humbrol trainer yellow. That idea saved me a lot of masking and time. The rod for the flak curtains is fine wire, secured to a tiny length of aluminum tubing in front and into a hole in the canopy bulkhead. (and as I looked at the pics, the thought occurred to me...wouldn't the right side have a flak curtain as well? Oh well. Good luck to the right-seater!!). I ground and carved away at the kit exhaust as they looked pretty bad. The exhausts now seen are sections cut from old ballpoint pens. I used my Paasche Model H for the spraying and used various shades of gray, rectangular and square cut-out “stencils”, file card as a straight edge, Flory washes and some pastel chalks to weather her. A mechanical pencil with the point sanded down quite finely and pieces of old vacuum cleaner belt was used to draw the panel lines. The drop tanks were done the same way and then I used a cotton bud to blur the pencil lines a bit. I think that technique gives a good result with raised lines. The kit went to together fairly well and the worst ordeal was attaching the tanks and ordnance. The attachment points were poorly engineered and seemed way too fiddly to me. Oh, and she's a big-time "tail-sitter" too. Even with two 115 gr 9mm bullets epoxied into the nose cone, she'll rock back on her heels like a cheap whore at the slightest provocation. Like moving the canopy too far back. The slight wind at the airport made it really frustrating to get pics because the model was constantly tilting back. I was not greatly impressed by the AOA decals either. Some resisted adhesion and none seemed overly rugged but rather too fragile. But after much gnashing of teeth and entirely too much time, she is finished and already in the display cabinet. But before that could happen, I had to get some pics. Here are some taken inside on Jan. 1 after everything was finished, and a few from next day at the Cameron airport too. January 2 was a lovely day out there and I had a nice interaction with two local police officers. They were very cool! As usual, thanks for taking time to look and comments welcomed!
  10. Here I present my Airbus A321. Austrian Airlines painted this Aircraft in 1996 with a lot of famous Austrians to celebrate the nation's Millennium, 1000 years Birthday. The model is OoB. I built this model a couple of years ago. At that time I didn't bother about the Winglets being too small and now I am too busy Building new models to alter the old ones. I was very proud having managed to get the very large decals aligned without accident. The Quality of the Revell decals helped a lot with that. Before one of you mentions it....I didn't know then that Authentic Airliner or Authentic decals existed….;-) The 321 requires less work than building a Revell 319 or 320 because the wing can be used as is. The other variants need some alteration on the small flaps. Mozart is on the tail. A friend of mine succeeded in finding out all the other names, too, but I can't find the note any more. So, ist your turn! I hope You like it! Cheers, Norbert PS: Any comment is appreciated, also if you native Speakers notice something with my english that sounds unusual to you. I still wanna learn. (I know…"wanna" is an Americanism…)
  11. I've been so wrapped up in wargamming recently I've not built a plane for a couple of months, so I went back to an old favourite, the Revell F-86D. I've done a shed load of these kits and am finally getting to the end of my stckpile which were mainly bought when ModelZone went bust or from second hand vendors at Telford. The decal are an old SuperScale sheet for the 5th FIS after they changed tail colours from Blue to Yellow in 1956. I think to be completely accurate there should be markings on the tanks but they aren't on the sheet and two photos show two different applications. As always thanks for looking
  12. Da Vinci Giant Crossbow (00517) 1:100 Revell Leonardo Da Vinci was a genius in no uncertain terms and his creations still provoke interest and admiration even today some 500 years later. He is primarily known as an artist of the high renaissance, although he often wasn't too keen on finishing his works so much of his output remained as sketches, which are just as amazing as his finished work such as the Mona Lisa. He was also intrigued by the human anatomy and a keen engineer and inventor, with quite a few amazing designs to his name, some of which bear a striking resemblance to surprisingly modern technology. His sketches were highly inventive, and although unlikely to have worked using technology of the day in some cases, they are still impressive even when viewed through modern eyes. The Kit Designed as a tribute to his original drawings and as a multimedia construction kit that can be built reasonably quickly by anyone from child upward, although with young ones a parent's supervision will hopefully result in a much better model. The set arrives in a black box with the finished model and a drawing of Leonardo on the front. Inside is a double-layer plastic tray that is supported by a card frame inside which the instruction booklet, information booklet, a themed A4 print, a sheet showing the numbers of each of the 39 parts and a bag containing glue, cord and a small piece of sandpaper are held. The tray holds the laser-cut wooden parts in depressions and the two layers stick together using friction fit pegs moulded into them. Take care when you open the tray however, as it has a habit of trying to launch the parts into space or the jaws of the carpet monster as I found out with the Aerial Screw. The instructions and the information booklet have been designed to resemble an ancient document, and are written in Italian, English, German, French and Spanish, although you won't need a mirror to be able to read them as the designers weren't as security conscious as the great painter. The larger of the two booklets contains the instructions, which have a multi-lingual inside page and the rest is pictorial so no special language skills are required. Construction begins with the three axles which are then added to the chassis and an outer rail that sits outside of the wheels. The chassis is bulked out with three parts and then mounted on the base with a trapezoid part locking it in place, then the release mechanism is built up and on the back section of the chassis with a length of cord joining the latch before it is locked in place by a grooved top cover. The limbs of the bow are flexible on the real thing, and laminated to achieve additional strength. This is imitated by burned lines along the limbs, but it is unwise to try to fire the bow as it is likely it will snap. The string notches at the ends of the limbs are separate parts and several lengths of cord are used to bind the limbs in a similar manner as would have been used on the real thing. The completed bow is then attached to the front of the chassis, and this too is attached with glue so wouldn't stand up to the pressure of the bow being drawn. At the back of the chassis are the winding handles and a simulation of a portion of the cog used to tension it, plus a pair of flat panels and what looks to be a self-entrenching tool at the rear. The limbs are finally linked with another length of cord that runs through the latch, and a plaque is attached to the front of the base. Conclusion These wooden models are great fun and this one builds up to an impressive size. I'd have loved it more if it was functional, but that would have required some serious upgrading of the parts and probably a substantial price rise and more safety warnings about eye protection and not doing anything silly with it. Enjoy it for what it is – an impressive look into the mind of one of the world's great artists. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  13. Revell Scale: 1/48 Type: Dassault Rafale M Extras used: Eduard GBU-12 bombs, Renaissance MICA EM missiles. Paints and colours used: Mainly Vallejo with AK Xtreme metals where appropriate. Flory Dark Dirt Wash, various oils, Alclad II Aqua Gloss, Tamiya Matt varnish and Flory weathering sponge. Hi again! I'm spamming today, got a few finished off and photographed... So, this is another one I finished a little while ago but only just had a chance to photograph. A lovely kit, only issue is really is around the air intakes. Also the missiles aren't great due to an awkward to clean join, which is why I used resin. Other than that, nicely detailed and relatively straight forward build. If I was to build another one, I'd probably got for an after market seat too. Decals were nice as well/ So here she is: That's it! Thanks for looking! Val
  14. Da Vinci's Aerial Screw (00515) 1:48 Revell Leonardo Da Vinci was a genius in no uncertain terms and his creations still provoke interest and admiration even today some 500 years later. He is primarily known as an artist of the high renaissance, although he often wasn't too keen on finishing his works so much of his output remained as sketches, which are just as amazing as his finished work such as the Mona Lisa and the Last Supper. He was also intrigued by human anatomy and was a keen engineer and inventor, with quite a few amazing designs to his name, one of which bears a striking resemblance to an early attempt at creating a helicopter. His sketches were highly inventive, and although unlikely to have worked using technology of the day in some cases, they are still impressive even when viewed through modern eyes. The Kit Designed as a tribute to his original drawings and as a multimedia construction kit that can be built reasonably quickly by anyone from child upward, although with young ones a parent's supervision will result in a much better model. The set arrives in a black box with the finished model and a drawing of Leonardo (we're on first name terms) on the front. Inside is a double-layer plastic tray that is supported by a card frame inside which the instruction booklet, information booklet, material "sails", a themed A4 print, a three-sheet set of plans and a bag containing glue, cord and a small piece of sandpaper are held. The tray holds the laser-cut wooden parts in depressions and the two layers stick together using friction fit pegs moulded into them. Take care when you open the tray however, as it has a habit of trying to launch the parts into space or the jaws of the carpet monster. The instructions and the information booklet have been designed to resemble an ancient document, and are written in Italian, English, German, French and Spanish, although you won't need a mirror to be able to read them as the designers weren't as security conscious as the great painter. The larger of the two booklets contains the instructions, which have a multi-lingual first page and the rest is pictorial so no special language skills are required. Or mirrors. Construction begins with the platform that is made of a circular base and a two part second layer plus a vertical post that terminates in a point at the upper end. The turning mechanism is next to be made with pegs for the crew to push on installed in the upper half. This slides over the central pole/axle and is trapped in place by another ring and is braced with four diagonal struts, then the supports for the screw are glued into place in the slots cut into the ring and top cap, all of which is left to rotate around the axle when the outer floor ring is rotated. The long curved supports are then added to join up the "branches" and form the screw-shaped external edge of the sail. The three part material sail is glued around these rails and later trimmed neatly once the glue has dried, then a needle will be required to thread the bracing cords through the sails and tie them down onto the bases of the struts and eyes in the outer floor ring. A small wooden plaque is installed at the front with the name and date of the design. Conclusion I love these wooden construction toys/models and also have a fondness for Mr Da Vinci's work from my school days in A Level art classes. The parts are quite delicate even though they are made of thin plywood, so allowing an unsupervised child (recommended for 10+) to attempt assembly is perhaps not the best idea, especially as wood glue requires a fair bit of patience. Take a bit of time between sessions and things should go well, and ensure that you have a needle with a suitably large eyed to hand, as the cord is much thicker than cotton. Do a good job though, and it will look awesome in the cabinet, and at a price that isn't likely to break the bank. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  15. This is the old Revell 1/96 Saturn V, assembled using pieces from two second-hand (partially built) 25th anniversary and 40th anniversary kits, with a RealSpace Block II Command/Service Module, Boost Protective Cover and batted F-1 engines. I also used New Ware's detail kit and a bit of scratch-built detail to produce a rendering of the AS-506 that took Apollo 11 to the moon. Here's a four-quadrant view of the completed model: The upper part in isolation: The area around the S-IVB aft interstage: And the S-II aft interstage: RealSpace provide a vacuum shaped Boost Protective Cover to go with their CSM. I punched out the commander and pilot windows, and added styrene rod to the kit Launch Escape Tower to simulate the wire harness. Build log for this section is at https://oikofuge.com/realspace-196-apollo-csm-part-3/ I used New Ware's scimitar antennae and hatch cover to detail RealSpace's CSM, added kit parts for thruster quads and S-band antenna, BareMetal Foil for bright metal areas, and Space Model Systems decals. Build log for this section starts at https://oikofuge.com/realspace-196-apollo-csm-part-1/ I painted over the transparent section in the kit SLA, and detailed with New Ware photoetch and styrene strip, correcting New Ware's black "-Y" decal on the instrument unit to a "+Y". Build log for this section is at https://oikofuge.com/revell-196-saturn-v-sla-iu/ The S-IVB was detailed with New Ware, replacing multiple fairings and the service tunnel: Here it is with the instrument unit and lower part of the SLA attached: Build log for this stage is at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-s-ivb/ The log for its aft interstage is at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-s-ivb-aft-interstage/ The kit S-II required extensive modification, with New Ware fairings, instrument packages on the thrust structure and a heatshield. I also needed to trim back the kit's stringers, remove all the kit's misplaced fairing locators from the aft skirt, add a layer of insulation to the forward skirt using styrene sheet, and construct the support structure for the heatshield using 0.5mm brass rod. I also moved the LOX vent pipes to their correct position, and corrected the number of gores in the upper tank dome. The kit provides the aft interstage for the S-II with 8 ullage motors, but AS-506 had only four, so the locators for the kit motors had to be removed, stringers repaired, and four New Ware motors added. I added the white flight separation joints above and below the S-II aft interstage by wrapping 0.5mm x 1.5mm styrene strip edgeways around the locating flanges at the base of the S-II and the interstage. Build log for this stage starts at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-s-ii-stage-1/ Build log for its aft interstage is at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-s-ii-aft-interstage/ The rear part of the S-IC needed extensive modification. The kit is based on the SA 500F, which had multiple air scoops around its aft end. Almost all of these had disappeared by the time SA-506 was launched, so New Ware provides photoetch/resin replacement parts for the engine fairings and heatshield. The kit F-1 engines are provide bare, but the real engines were covered with batted insulation - I used RealSpace's resin replacements, with a mixture of chrome paint and Bare-Metal Foil to simulate the different reflective properties of the batting. New Ware's resin heatshield is undetailed beyond the simple outlines of the tiles, so I printed up custom decals to provide rivet and other detail. I also scratch-built lunate heatshields to fill the engine fairing voids, with their own custom decals - both the kit and New Ware provide only rectangular heatshields in this area. For the S-IC service tunnels, New Ware provides mutiple photoetch plates to be wrapped around the kit parts. The contour of the kit parts is wrong, and I instead applied New Ware's photoetch to appropriate lengths of 7mm half-cylindrical styrene rod. I also carved out slots in the kit aft skirt to insert New Ware's resin hold-down posts. I made an error with this stage by not checking the length and fit of the service tunnels. The kit version of this stage is too long by close to an inch (the extra length mainly in the forward tank and intertank structure), and I had assembled it before realizing this. New Ware's tunnels are approximately the correct length to scale, and so don't cover the correct proportions of the overscale stage. Sigh. Build log for this stage starts at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-s-ic-stage-part-1/ The kit's representation of the Lunar Module is wrong in multiple ways, and would need to be rebuilt almost entirely for accuracy. I contented myself by fixing the representation of the external tank strut on the left side, adding a few details with styrene, and marking it up with the insulation patterns of Apollo 11's LM5. A lot of extra detail (antennae, docking target, plume deflectors) could easily have been added, but it would have been like applying lipstick to a pig, and in any case the LM is invisible in the assembled Saturn V - so I didn't bother. Build log for this part is at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-lunar-module/ As a final note, ALL the kit stages are misaligned with each other in rotation, so all the locating lugs between stages had to be relocated to produce the correct alignments. Sorry about the image-heavy presentation, but there are a lot of parts to this kit!
  16. Here is my finished EasyJet A319 in 1/144 scale built using the Revell Kit and displayed in the new scheme thanks to Decals from DrawDecal. I have an A320 to complete in this Livery and thing I’ll try harder to work on the ‘swish back’ lines on the fuselage. I have put it along side a BA A320, both aircraft I have operated when I was Cabin Crew.
  17. Here is my completed American Airlines 777-300 1/44 scale using the Revell Kit, displayed in the new livery This colour stressed me out for so long, and I kept mixing it until I found a colour that I was happy with taking into account various photos of the real thing under different lighting conditions. Interesting to know your thoughts? The paint mix I went for was mixing Revell light grey 371, Revell white gloss 04 and a touch of Revell Silver 90. It was a case of keep mixing until I found a shade I was most happy with. Wings and stabs are Revell 371. Was then clear coated several times with Humbrol Clear, and then finally glossed once the decals had been applied. Thank you for looking and as always any feedback is much appreciated. Alistair
  18. Messerschmitt Bf.110C-2/C7 (04961) 1:32 Revell A German Heavy Fighter, Destroyer or in native German Zerstörer, the Bf.110 was conceived before WWII in the mid-30s, but due to successive upgrades it limped on to the end of the war, despite being largely outclassed by wartime developments by the Allies, which sometimes resulted in heavy losses. The initial A and B variants were underpowered and made do with the stop-gap Jumo engines while waiting for the DB601 power plants that had been promised but were late in arriving. It wasn't until the C variant arrived that the new engines came on-stream, leading to an improvement in performance and a revision of the cowling and radiator enclosures to accommodate the differences. Its duties ranged from long-range reconnaissance or bombing to heavy fighter, with the C-2 taking on the role of the Zerstörer, fitted with an upgraded FuG 10 radio, while the C-7 was designated as a fighter bomber with uprated engines and external hard-points for bomb racks carrying up to 1,000kg bombs, which would have had a serious effect on the performance. It was replaced by the D with extended range due to internal tanks and wiring for external disposable tanks such as the boat-like "Daschund's belly" fuselage tank. This in turn was replaced by the cumbersome E, then the more capable F and G versions that were used until the end of the war. The Kit The plastic in the box for this release is a Dragon kit that was released in the noughties, with the sprues showing evidence of this with little dragons in the corner. Don't confuse it with the 70s era Revell kit in the same scale which is a whole different kit and a much more agrarian affair with a low parts count and raised details. Arriving in a fairly enormous box that could have been much smaller to save shelf-space, it has plenty of room to rattle about during transit, although the individual bagging of the sprues and overall double-bagging should reduce the likelihood of chaffing. If you're a detail hound, you've got masses of room for aftermarket in the box, or even another kit if you're a serial 110 builder. Inside the box are fourteen sprues and a nose cone part in grey styrene, two clear sprues, a large decal sheet and a thick instruction booklet with decal options printed in colour at the rear. With the plastic being Dragon you would expect good detail and you won't be disappointed – there's plenty, and a few spare parts will stay on the sprue as they aren't used in this edition. The instruction booklet looks slightly different from the new-style we're becoming used to, but the drawings may have been taken from the original and "Revellised" as much as possible. I may also be talking nonsense. Detail is very nicely done with just the right balance of engraved and raised elements, with slide-moulding used for hollow parts and to render the complex curves of the nose and engine cowlings. Construction begins with a notification/warning that some sprue gates on this model are spread between the edges of the parts and the mating surfaces, and suggests a two-step process for their clean removal. Cut the part off flush with the edge, then trim the remainder from the mating surface. One such gate can be found on the trailing edge of the wings. With this out of the way, work commences on the cockpit and if you're modelling the C-2 you will need to remove a small rectangular panel of switches from the lower portion of the instrument panel and leave off decal number 73 when you apply the other instrument decals from the sheet. The cockpit of the 110 is a long narrow affair, and the pilot's station is first to be detailed with instrument panel, side-consoles and seat with belt decals, although at this scale a lot of folks will want something more substantial, such as the beautiful belt sets made by HGW. The gunner's arm chair gets a similar decal belt set, as does the radio operator's tiny perch in the form of lap belts only – lucky fella! The radio panel is well-detailed and these too have decal dials applied before they are attached to the bulkhead in front of them. The aircraft's defensive armament needs feeding with brass and the cockpit is filled with spare drum mags for the rear gun and the gun pack that is visible through the hole in the floor beneath the radio man's seat, giving him something extra to do during combat. The gun pack is built up on a small platform with the cannon breeches below and the magazines protruding through into the cockpit. The moulding of the MGFF/M cannons and their recoil springs is very nicely done, but much of it won't be seen after the fuselage is closed up. The pack, cross-members and sidewalls are added to the floor to complete the compartment except for the port sidewall, which is fixed into the fuselage interior in anticipation of closing up the fuselage later. Firstly, however the nose gun bay must be built up on its platform, its quad MG17s mounted with ammo feed and brass chutes added and four milk-bottle sized cylinders affixed to the front bulkhead below the barrels. The nose cone is slide-moulded separately and has a pre-etched line around the inside where the nose cowling is removed for maintenance and reloading of the weapons. This can be removed to display your work inside the nose or fitted with a hollow-moulded gun tube for the belly guns and slid over the gun pack assembly if you want a clean nose. The fuselage is closed up around the cockpit assembly (with gunsight added), locating the sidewall pegs in the mounts within the wing roots and adding the aft cowling/coaming around the gunner's area that's suitable for your choice of mark. A small panel under the rudder pedals is inserted before the nose cone it brought together with the fuselage, relying on a lip to strengthen the join, and here careful alignment will pay dividends later. The fuselage is then flipped over and the H-shaped spar is added along with the panels that cover the underside of the fuselage between the wings. A small panel on the side of the fuselage is flatted down, filled and sanded here for accuracy, and then work begins on the wings. The engines are first to be built up with all their ancillaries and engine mounts, which will be familiar to anyone that has built a Bf.109 before, as they share the same engine. This is all carried out twice for obvious reasons, then the internals of the nacelles are made up to accommodate the wheel bays with a sloped bulkhead that accepts the pegs from the engine mounts on the front, and the main gear legs at the rear. The gear legs are made up from a four-part triangular base with the main strut attached to the bottom and the separate oleo-scissors added straddling the rubber-booted dampers and just needing a little brake-hose stand-in to complete the look. Moving back to the engine, you have the option to leave the cowling off in which case you use one set of exhaust stubs, but if you are leaving the cowlings closed, small sections of cowling are added to a different set of stubs. None of the exhausts are moulded with hollow tips, so you have the choice of drilling and scraping them hollow or finding a pair of Quickboost exhausts (QB32051) if you're lazy like me. For the closed cowling option the two parts are applied from top and bottom to each engine and set aside for later inclusion in the wings. If you are building them with one or more engine open, the cowlings have the exhaust slots added and are joined together separately to pose near the aircraft once it's finished. In the meantime the inside of the cowling that's moulded into the wing is prepared with a number of wedge-shaped ribs and small sections of the cowling behind the exhausts, which are left off if you are using the closed cowlings. The nacelles are lowered in from above, guiding the gear leg through the bay aperture, then closing the wing up with the engine and cowling in place. The very tip of the wing is separate and has a small tip light added in clear styrene, and the port wing has a small intake that is open on the C-2, or fitted with a cylindrical filter on the C-7, so here's it's just a case of choosing the appropriate insert. The completed wings are slid over the twin spars to join the fuselage and although the spars will help obtain the correct alignment, checking by eye won't hurt and propping the tips to the appropriate angle while the glue dries is an easy solution if they're drooping a little. There's still plenty to do, including the H-tail and tail wheel, the latter having a two-part wheel with radial tread and two-part hub that fits between (you guessed it) a two-part yoke and is then integrated with the rear section of the fuselage that initially glues to the underside of the full-width tail upper, to be joined by the twin lowers and the two fins with moulded-in rudders. The completed assembly slots into the back of the fuselage with a tiny clear dome light added at the very back. Flare guards are added to the engine cowlings, as are the twin doors on the main bays, which have rather deep rivets etched into their insides. With the airframe inverted the twin belly bomb rack is made up and fitted along with a pair of larger bombs, and another four on outer-wing pylons in pairs on each wing. The radiator baths are also installed outboard of the engine pods with separate flaps to the rear and depictions of the radiator cores within. The main wheels have two-part tyres and four-part hubs that slip over the axles and should look pretty good with a small flat sanded into the contact area to give them a bit of weighting. The canopy of a 110 is a complex greenhouse in any mark, with this one being no different. The parts are crystal clear and are individual sections to enable the modeller to create any combination of open and closed panels, with a separate cockpit sill part that encompasses the whole aperture save for the windscreen. This holds the defensive MG15 mount which has a canvas covered attachment to the gun's breech, twin drum mags on top, and a flexible dump-chute for the spent brass. Grab handles are fitted to the sides to aid ingress/egress and a few additional instruments are installed behind the pilot's divide with a small inverted L-shaped coaming shielding them from glare. This is fitted to the cockpit along with the central fixed anti-roll frame then the canopy is built up as a complete unit before it is dropped over it. Careful test-fitting and gluing is the watch-word here, and it would be sensible instead to assemble it while in position to dodge any issues caused by parts slipping or drooping before the glue sets. There is a choice of two rear parts, which is the gunner's opening portion when the gun's services are needed, but it's not made abundantly clear what the differences are. From a visual inspection part H7 is substantially narrower than part H8, and has a pair of pegs to pose it open which will require part H15 to slide forwards onto the top of the fixed portion of the canopy. This isn't explained at all well, and neither is the mechanism in which the pilot's canopy opens. The top portion hinges back as shown in step 103, but the side panels that hinge outwards at the bottom to lay flat against the fuselage aren't shown in their open position, but now you know. A quick Google will clarify it further if I've not explained well enough. The last act is to add the props and small breakable parts to the airframe, which is best done after main painting and weathering is completed. The props have a two-part central boss with three individual blades that are inserted along with three short cuffs into the boss and then covered with the spinner and its backplate plus a short axle inserted from the rear. Take care inserting the props as they have a small notch to obtain the correct angle but this is fairly shallow and may be prone to slippage once the glue is applied. Flying surface actuators and horn balances are added with pitot probes, aerials, DF loop and crew step to complete the gluey part. Markings There are two decal options included on the decal sheet with three pages devoted to each one, showing both sides plus top and bottom, then a separate page of a grey airframe shows where all the stencils go. From the box you can build one of the following: Bf.110C-7, S9+AN, 5./ZG1, Belgorod, Russia, May 1942 Bf.110C-2, 3U+GT WkNr. 3063, 9./ZG26, France, June 1940 Decals are by Zanetti with good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas, but here the registration has drifted slightly on my review sample so that some of the stencils are peeking out from under their carrier film by a fraction. Careful application should see them go down well enough, but forewarned is forearmed. Conclusion Other than the slight slippage of the carrier film on the decal sheet, this is a lovely kit that should build up into a respectable miniature, although it won't be small with a 50cm wingspan. The detailers will want to get those exhausts hollowed out and the seatbelts more realistic, but it will still suffice out of the box for the majority of modellers. Speaking of the box, it's a bit of an environmental faux pas to produce such a voluminous box in this more environmentally conscious era we live in. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  19. Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle (06746) 1:93 Revell Kylo Ren is Supreme Leader Snokes' young(ish) apprentice and plays a substantial role in both of the episodes of this sequel trilogy so far, with the promise of more in the upcoming Rise of Skywalker that is due (at time of writing) this Christmas, with the hope that it ends the series on a high note. Ben Solo as he was named at birth gets around in a large black Command Shuttle, which bears a familial resemblance to an Imperial Shuttle in the folded configuration, and with the central fin deleted. In flight the wings fold out into a wide V-shape that defies explanation other than looking malevolent. It's screen time is fairly fleeting in The Force Awakens, but it acts as his mobile command centre toward the end of The Last Jedi, hovering menacingly over the under-used AT-M6 Gorilla walkers and taking centre stage during the breaching of the Rebel base's huge armoured shield-door on Crait . The Kit This is a re-release of the snap-together styrene kit as a true model, and is more detailed and larger most of the other kits in the Star Wars range. It arrives in a large end-opening box, and has six sprues in grey black styrene, plus one containing a single clear part. The details aren't painted at the factory like the previous release, and as such it has been re-branded as a kit with the skill level raised from 2 to 3, and Kylo's helmeted head has been removed from the box art to be replaced by his Grandad wielding his light sabre. Now the instructions show glue being used and colours are called out on the way using the more usual alphabetic codes that relate to their paint brand. The first thing of note is how big these wings really are. They're over 30cm long, so when it's built, you're going to need some headroom wherever you want to store/display it. There are detail inserts in the wing edges, and the cannons in the leading wing-root edge are carried over from the old shuttles. The wings fix into the hull at the vertical landing orientation, so if you want to depict it in flight with wings canted to the sides, you'll need to adapt the roots to suit. The partial retraction of the tips of the wings for landing inside hangar bays would make for a more difficult conversion, but there is bound to be some out there willing to give it a go, and some maniac will probably also motorise it! The lower hull has a crew compartment and bulkhead added along with an articulated access-ramp, which is covered by a blank bay to block your view of the interior. The canopy and wing root bulkheads are slotted in place along with a few other smaller parts, and the hull is closed up, with a pair of exhaust nozzles added to the rear. This time around you will need to paint the canopy yourself, which gives you the opportunity to leave it translucent to show the detail in the control room. The wings slot into the hull's bulkheads on long pins for strength, and you then install the landing gear skids in retracted positions by leaving the gear legs off, or in landing pose by adding the legs beforehand. Conclusion This is a now marketed as a model and I feel that it is better suited to this genre as the surface detail is more in line with its new status. It's a big kit and if you take your time to paint and detail it to the best of your ability, the basic detail is strong enough and for the detailers it is a good base on which to go to town, with room inside the hull for a lighting rig if you have that in mind. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  20. Apollo 11 Lunar Module Eagle (03701) 1:48 Revell 2019 is the 50th anniversary of Man's first landing on the Moon, which began with the huge Saturn V rocket lifting off from Cape Canaveral and ended with the tiniest percentage of its total mass orbiting the moon. Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong moved from the Command Module (CM) into the Lunar Excursion Module (LEM) for the descent to the lunar surface. Despite the dangers of this frail contraption failing at some point they landed safely with a few teaspoons of fuel left in the descent thrusters, after which the immortal phrase "The Eagle has landed" was uttered, of course referring to the name of their little ship. After a momentous descent down the ladder and speech by Neil Armstrong they spent a couple of hours mooching about on the surface collecting samples and setting up a few instruments, then blasted off for rendezvous with the combined CM and Service Module (SM) for the journey back home. Splashdown was also safely executed, and another six successful landings were made in the next few years until the programme was terminated prematurely due to them finding Transformers on the Moon. Or was it monsters, or Nazis? I forget now. Could it have been budgetary reasons and a loss of interest from the American public? Surely not. The Kit Revell have been busily reissuing their back catalogue of Apollo Programme related kits lately to celebrate the anniversary, most of which originate from the toolings made around the time that the landings were still ongoing. This is a more recent kit that is a reboxing of the Dragon kit first released in 2011, so has a lot of detail moulded in and some use of slide-moulding to improve detail out of the box. It also includes a rendition of the gold-coloured Kapton foil that was used to insulate the descent stage and is missing from many of the older kits. The only difference this kit has from the original is that the gold-coloured parts aren't pre-painted. The kit arrives in an end opening box and inside are eight sprues of a matt-finished grey styrene, a single part for the octagonal base of the descent stage, a small sheet of decals, and an instruction booklet. First impressions are good, and the moulding of the crinkled surface of the descent stage parts looks great, although some visible seams will need scraping away for realism. As this is a special edition there are a couple of thumb pots of acrylic paint and a number 2 Revell paint brush included in the box, although that's probably most likely aimed at the casual modeller who may not have their own collections of paint and tools. Great news is this is your first dip of the toe into the hobby. The ascent module builds up quite cleverly, with long tubular friction mountings keeping the module rigid, and simplifying assembly. There is no pretence at an interior here, and the windows that are present on the real thing are supplied as decals to keep it simple. The various antennae and the important direction control thrusters are simple to install, and each have hollow reaction bells, enhancing realism. The lower descent module is mostly covered in the heat resistant Kapton material, but the facets below the thrusters are painted black, so there's less gold to spray. The legs attach to well-defined mounting lugs, which should make for a strong joint. The dished feet don’t have the odd sensor spikes that are sometimes seen under them, so check your references and build up your own if you’re planning on modelling it in-flight. The big reaction bell in the central underside is very well moulded, but has no aperture for the reaction gases to exit the bell, so check your references and decide whether you want to replicate this area. Markings The painting guide is in the back of the instructions, and as well as the gold areas, silver and black are the main colours used for the exterior. The black areas different widely between the various modules, so remember to check your references carefully before committing to paint if you are going off piste with your module choice. Even panels that do appear to be “black” seem to be more of a very dark grey in some pictures, and there are details to the areas that require some close inspection. The decals are printed for Revell in Italy by Zanetti, and consist of a pair of US flags, the “United States” panels emblazoned on the descent stage sides, and the four windows, two triangular and a further two lozenge shaped in the “roof” to monitor the docking procedure with the CM. These decals are black with silver borders, and white markings that were used to guide the landing and docking process. Conclusion This is a very nicely presented kit, and having it in 1:48 is really nice for those of us that also have an aircraft habit in this scale. The parts are well engineered, with a modicum of slide-moulding evident to produce more accurate parts without complicating the build, which is good news. The replication of the wrinkled insulation material is first rate, and the lack of a cockpit interior doesn’t bother me in the slightest, although I would have liked some more realistic windows. Overall though, it’s a great looking model, and I’m really looking forward to building it, as I have a fondness for the Apollo programme and real space in general. Very highly recommended, Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  21. My best mate loves collectables- if you sell AFVs or ship models in the UK, you've probably done business with him. This makes Christmas and birthdays easy going, since I get to send a model of whatever the flavour of the month is. He hates building, never mind painting, so I even get to make the kit. Bargain! This year I sourced a BSG Viper, then wasted a week trying (failing) to paint on wee Hara Thrace's glowing helmet. No biggie, plenty of time left... Or not. Spoiler- warning, contains tale of woe and much whining! The finished item:
  22. This model was finished in April this year. It is the old Revell kit, which is not as detailed as the newer Zvezda kit. The main Problem is the flight deck front Shield, but by filling and sanding and using a decal it Looks ok. Vueling is a Spanish low-cost carrier and in 2012 they had flown 50 Million passengers and marked this Aircraft with a big !Gracias! on one side and on the other side with "Thanks". The Decals are made by Nazca. The Right side is done very well, but surprisingly there were a lot of mistakes on the left side. So I had to improvise at some Areas with some cutting. You will only notice it by directly comparing to original Fotos. I found an interesting Foto showing how much dirt and oil had accumulated on the Bottom and tried to Imitate that. I also painted the back half of the engines somewhat darker to Imitate the traces of the thrust reverser. The Winglets provided by Revell are too small. So i made them from Scratch using Daco`s photo etched parts as atemplate. Zvezda`s also have the correct size So, please feel free to comment on the model and also on the Things I missed or done wrong. cheers, Norbert
  23. Need to finish off the base and do some more weathering before I can call it done.
  24. Spitfire Mk.II Interior and Seatbelts (for Revell) 1:32 Eduard The new Revell Spitfire II was a welcome kit when it hit us in 2014, despite a few short comings it can still be built into a nice kit. These sets from Eduard will enhance the base kit. Interior (32936) Two frets are included, one nickel plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. A complete set of new layered instrument panels are provide. also for the cockpit a new pilots seat and the armour plate behind it. Rudder pedals, a new gunsight housing and control column parts. There are parts for the aircraft frames directly behind the cockpit. Inside the cockpit there are a myriad of parts for the sides, and cockpit controls. There are parts for the canopy frames and a new cockpit door complete with its framing and the canopy breaker bar (just don't paint it red!). Zoom! Set (33206) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted parts that are used to improve on the main aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the structural elements. Seatbelts STEEL (33207) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. Review samples courtesy of
  25. German Fast Attack Craft S-100 (05162) 1:72 Revell The S Boat is called as the S stands for Schell in German which means fast. The boats were 35m long and 5.1m in beam designed for operations in the North Sea they were very capable vessels with a good performance in rough seas. Their top speed sustained was 43 knots , and they could push this as high as 49 for short bursts. They were powered by three Daimler Benz Diesel Engines which gave better range and performance than any western vessel until the later MTB's arrived. Just to confuse matter the Royal Navy referred to S Boats as E Boats with the E standing for Enemy. They were armed with 2 forward facing torpedo tubes with 2 reloads making a total of 4. Various other close in weapons were mounted such as machine guns, 20mm cannons and even heavier 37mm cannons. The S Boats were very capable attack boats and gave a good account of themselves. The Kit This boxing is a re-release of the kit which originally came out in 2001, and is now on its forth release. The kit arrives as two large hull halves and three additional large sprues. There is some flash evident on these latest ones. There is also a reel of rigging thread in the box. Construction starts with the bridge which unlike those on British vessels has a degree of armour to it to protect the crew. The box which makes the actual bridge is made up and then the external armour is placed over it. Next up the rear ends of the torpedo tubes are made up as these and the bridge structure then get fitted to the ,main deck. The main deck can then be fitted into the hull and this is then closed up. The fore-deck is then fitted with the support structure for the fore-deck gun going in under the deck before its fitted. Various deck fittings are also added at this stage. Moving back to the bridge a large pair of fixed binoculars for the torpedo sighting system are fitted. Also many bridge and bridge casement fittings are added including life-rings and lookout positions. Ventilators are added and the acetate for the screens is fixed in. Access ladders from the main deck are then added. Now moving onto the main-deck various deck housings and fittings are added along with the main side rails, these are rope at the back so are added from the spool supplied in the kit. The weapons including the reload torpedoes are made up at this time. A large what looks to be single barrelled 20mm for the front with a 37mm aft, and a twin 20mm for the midships position. What look to be mine laying rails are added to the stern though no mines are supplied in the kit. Finally the aerial wires are added from the kit supplied spool. If not building a water line diorama or scene then a stand is included for displaying the finished model. Markings There are markings for 2 boats with no details given. The modeller will have to supply their own Swastika for the Ensign. Decals are by Cartograf as can be seen from the small "c" at the end of the code, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion It is good to see this kit being re-released Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
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