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  1. Guess I'd better declare mine here - seems that there's quite a few of these about so I'll leave out the box contents, but just to be clear this is the kit in question. Because I tend to build at a pace similar to a snail on spice this will be done straight out of the box. And as my first car build on returning to the hobby was the 2006 version, I absolutely have to build it in black with gold stripes to resemble it's cousin from four years ago (looking at the picture now I realise how much neater my more recent builds are under the camera!): But first, a small confession. Although I haven't started building anything yet, I have got some paint on the body as I tend to leave a couple of weeks between coats and could see that holding me up. It's just had the colour coat (pics at some stage over the weekend) so still decalling and clear coats to go. Hope that is ok as there is well under 25% of work done to date, but it's not a completely fresh build from 10th July.
  2. Time to mark my spot for this GB which I have been looking forward to for a long time, I really enjoyed the last one where I built an F4U-7 Corsair and thought that I would continue the Aeronautique Navale theme by building an SB2C-5 Helldiver. I am not 100% certain which unit i shall build it from as although I do have an interest in the Indochina conflict I also have one in the aircraft used by France in her North African colonies but as the airframes are the same and it is pretty much just a case of which markings to use I can make that decision later in the build. The kit I shall be using for my build is the venerable Pro-Modeller 1/48 kit as later released by Revell which I was lucky to pick up the last Milton Keynes model show (remember them!) for good price as these go for silly money on a certain internet auction site, here are the ubiquitous box and contents shots; And a look at the kit supplied decals and etched brass; As you can see the original decal sheet does come with the option of an aircraft used in Indochina but I am unsure as to how they will behave as they are quite old, however I have timed this very well as Model Art Decals have just released a superb sheet covering French SB2C's in Indochina, North Africa and France and it looks to be of top quality; Very nice indeed, and I have to say that Jean-Pierre's customer service is second to none and I will definitely be ordering directly from him again. I have a Bf 109 to finish before I can get started on this one but I hope that it will not be too long after the start date of the GB because I have wanted one of these in my collection for a while now. Good luck to all of you with your builds and all comments and criticisms on mine are gratefully received. Craig.
  3. Dominic’s ’70 Dodge Charger (07693) Fast & Furious 1:25 Revell There’s a little-known petrol-head friendly film franchise called The Fast & The Furious that started out with Vin Diesel and the late lamented Paul Walker in a film by the name of “The Fast and the Furious” that now extends to nine films with a two-parter as 10th and 11th of the saga, plus a spin-off movie with two more planned, one with the ladies in charge, and one for the men. I lost touch with it after number 2, as it I felt it was getting a little extreme in terms of what a car can do on the open road without CGI and wires helping out. After tempting the car-buying public with a display in 1964 and a concept car in 1965, Dodge turned that into the first Charger by 1966 by fine-tuning it, knocking off the rough edges, and using some pre-existing components from their existing range to keep costs from spiralling. By 1970 it had been redesigned and far exceeded sales expectations, having become quite popular, one might say. The design was tweaked to include a full-width front grille with no central divider, and an unusual slant-6 engine joined the engine options, which had been carried over from the first generation largely unaltered. It wasn’t suited to racing however, so a more aerodynamic bodyshell was created and given the name Charger Daytona. Americans love to fiddle with their muscle cars, which is almost anathema to us over here in the UK, as our insurance would be null-and-void if we install even the smallest of upgrades and don’t tell them so they can hike up the price. The specification of the movie vehicle changed from scene to scene, and film to film, but the constant was a fake supercharger bulge in chromed plastic on the bonnet, with an alleged 900bhp being generated between the plastic and the real engine. Yeah. Right. This is Hollywood though, so we’ll let them off. It looks nice, and the shiny chrome contrasts well with the black of the bodyshell, with the fat tyres on the rear wheels completing the look. Of course, lots of different bodyshells and engines were used during production of the various films that it appeared in, but we’ll ignore that. The Kit This is a rebox of an original kit from 1997, but it has been treated to new parts over the years in order to represent other variants, such as the 1970 model that we have here. It arrives in an end-opening box and has seven sprues of white styrene plus three bodyshell parts, two small chromed sprues, a clear red sprue, a clear sprue, four soft black tyres, four “screws” and a colour instruction booklet with colour profiles on the rear pages. Time has been very kind to the sprues, and there is plenty of detail moulded-in. Pretty much the only thing that points to the age of the sprues are the few misaligned ejector-pin marks on the headliner inside the bodyshell. Construction begins with the engine, which is well-detailed and includes the transmission, with the alleged supercharger that sticks through the bonnet attached to the top. The exhaust manifold has four exit pipes on each side, merging into a single wider pipe that connects to the exhaust later on. The pulleys are installed on the front of the engine with paint and/or decals to add a little detail. A pair of front seats are made up with nice upholstery and piping detail on the front shell, and a back panel added to each one to complete them. These are installed on the floor pan, which has a cranked shifter and an anti-roll bar that has a fire-extinguisher strapped to the cross-bar, and a V-shaped brace that leaves the cab via a slot in the rear of the compartment. The dash is painted and decaled, has the steering wheel on a short column inserted, plus a chromed dial above the column, and two clear dials inserted from behind into the binnacle. The footwell is another insert that has the four pedals (four????) on the left, and what looks like a heater matrix or aircon unit on the passenger’s side, then the sub-assemblies are brought together around the floor pan, adding the door cards, which are moulded as one piece per side, and the two layers of dash/pedal box. The main bodyshell has the headliner moulded-in, which has those ejector-pin marks to deal with first, then after painting you add the windscreen, rear window, plus the quarterlights on the front sloped of the doors, together with a central cabin light and a chromed rear-view mirror. The windscreen has the sun-visors moulded-in, and those should be painted before you close up the model. The third body part is the chassis, which separates the floor pan from the road, and this is fitted with the stub of the steering column, then a few detail parts are fixed to the front face of the firewall on the cab, after which the whole body can be put together with the engine slotted into the space between the wings. At this stage the front end is a bit bare, which is next to be rectified by adding in the front panel, radiator with decals included, and the complex front axle and suspension ironwork. At the back, the two leaf-springs are added to the rear axle and inserted into the rear of the vehicle, joined to the transmission by its drive-shaft, and adding a pair of shocks that damp down the movement of the back axle under power. She’s not going to go very far without wheels, so the kit includes two pairs of chromed hubs that slip inside the tyres, and are fixed to styrene hubs at the rear by the “screws” that are actually blunt pins, by friction alone. These glue into the wheel wells, with the big ones at the back so people don’t laugh at you. Attention turns back to the engine bay, adding the battery, some hoses, one needing a hole drilling to fit, the underside of the bodyshell and that full-width super-shiny chrome grille, the centre of which is painted matt black. A pair of clear “blinkers” are added under the front after painting them orange, the chromed door handles, fuel filler cap, and two windscreen wipers finish off the front (the bonnet comes last), with a rear panel, clear red rear lights and tiny round clear ones underneath, then the chromed bumper covering the lower half. The rear number plate is chromed, but needs painting black, which seems a waste of time, but never mind, eh. The bonnet has a large hole in the centre, and around it there is some nice detail on the underside, which has two hinges added at the rear edge, then is slotted inside the bay, clicking into position and allowing you to leave the bonnet open or closed. The last part is a chromed wing mirror for the driver’s side. Markings You can paint the model any colour you like as long as it’s black. That’s if you want to be true to the movie car anyway. From the box you can build the black beastie below: Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. There are a lot of seatbelt decals, stencils, stickers and even tie-downs for the bonnet and boot (sorry Americans), although the purists might want to make those a little more 3D. You have a choice of three numberplates for your Charger, all from California, but the black option is distinctly of the vanity variety. Conclusion A nicely timed reboxing of a decent kit that builds up into a good replica of the smoke & mirrors of a Hollywood cash-cow franchise. Highly recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  4. In a moment of modelling madness I've decided to embark on a project to build a 1/72 scale Royal Australian Navy S-2G Grumman Tracker from the Revell boxing of the old Hasegawa S-2A kit. I've built several of the Hasegawa kits around 20 years ago with RAN markings but I never took account of the required modifications and so this build aims to set things right so I can have a "proper" S-2G in my collection. I was unable to locate a Hawkeye S-2G resin conversion kit so I've decided to scratch build the lot. As my display space is quite limited, and because it looks neat, I'll also be building the model with folded wings. I do wonder whether I've bitten off a bit too much this time! The things to be done include extending the fuselage by around 5mm behind the cabin, re-positioning the fuselage windows, extending the wing-tips to accomodate antennas, increasing size of the tailplanes and modifying the nacelles. There's some good reference material available including a few previous Britmodeller builds so I won't be flying totally blind. Here's the kit and the aftermarket bits and pieces. I've got some Eduard etch and a canopy mask, decals from Hawkeye Models and some resin engines I've forgotten to photograph. And here's the current state of play. I've separated the cockpit from the fuselage, built the interior and then added the 5mm extension at the rear. The extension piece was cut from an older kit that I had been using as a paint mule. It's a fair match but will require a good amount of putty and sanding to blend it in between the cockpit and main fuselage. I haven't spent much time on the cockpit apart from adding the etch as it will barely be visible once the canopy is on. And here's the separated fuselage halves. The cabin windows needed re-positioning a few millimetres forward. And lastly the wings which have been separated at the folding lines, the wingtips removed and a stack of 3mm of plastic card added which will be sanded to give the correct shape. More to come, Andrew
  5. Hello everybody. First, many thanks to Brad for organizing this GB . Also, my thanks to TonyW, rob Lyttle and JOCKNEY whose enthusiasm for the Connie "helped" (you know what I mean, guys) me choose between two subjects I'm really fond of. So my entry is Revell's 1/144 Lockheed L.1049G Super Constellation in TWA markings. The most elegant airliner of all times IMHO (the Concorde ranking second). I decided on the TWA markings because they're intended for the "long nose" version I prefer and I will put the plane on a stand, gear up, to emphasize it's sleek silhouette. If I could rename this aircraft, I wouldn't call it Connie but Gal Gadot, that's for sure gentlemen (with all due respect to Mrs. Gadot). It's a time of firsts, as it's my first participation in a GB, first airliner ever and first 1/144 kit. Let's be honest, I chose a simple kit as I intend it to be a mojo restorer. Also, as usual, it shall be done OOB and as per instructions. Now let's have a look at the box and its contents. Side-opening box. One part off the sprues but no damage. I wish every manufacturer would do as Zvezda (recently?) does, meaning a really sturdy cardboard box that slides into a sleeve with the boxart on it. Small parts count, so really not much if the gear isn't attached. Plastic seems quite hard compared to let's say Airfix. No flaws - flash, sink marks - noted until now (moulds dating back to 2006/2007). Fine and consistently engraved panel lines. Clear parts are, well, .. clear. The decals are a bit thick. I told before there was too much carrier film but at second glance, that's not the case. I hope to give it a start as soon as tomorrow. Lots of folk and varied subjects in this GB, so I wish everyone lots of fun whether it be building or watching.
  6. Hello guys! I just received a notification from a domestic seller that my Bf 109G-10 Erla in 32nd scale from Revell is on its way to my local post office. The kit has markings for two versions: Erich Hartmann's last Messerschmitt, and Yellow 7. I'll be building it as Hartmann's machine and put it alongside his G-6 from Hasegawa. I learnt a lot from the G-6 Late & Early (from Revell too), and will apply my findings (such as loose landing gear struts and fragile tailwheel strut) into play with this model. I hope I don't slash the tailwheel strut with my hand this time. The model should be arriving next week if everything goes according to the delivery schedule. Until that, here's a downloaded photo from Google of the kit's boxart.
  7. After the Jag, I still feel the need for 80’s RAF metal, and what represents that era better than a Norfolk land shark? This is the older Revell kit, with a rather cavernous box containing more sprues than I can recall for any other model. There seems to be enough plastic for two Tornados in here! I’m delighted to see I’ll be able to model it with everything sticking out and hanging down! Makes a nice change after my DIY efforts on the Jaguar. Loving the upper spoilers. Although I assume this is where I’ll be informed no Tornado ever sat on Marham’s flight line with them sticking up!? I might just claim artistic licence, as the more protruding bits the better in my opinion. The kit was my usual eBay special, so came without decals or instructions. I’ll print the instructions off Scalemates or somewhere, and I have these beauties for decals. Look at all that green and grey camo, proper fast jet colour! For now I’m intending to do the 27 Sqn one from Marham. Im going to need some aftermarket cockpit bits …
  8. I was reminded by @stevej60 that I had a old Matchbox/Revell Char B.1 Bis & FT.17 kit in my stash. I picked it up many years ago out of a bargain bucket & it has been hidden away at the back of my stash ever since. Well now seems like the best time to build it before it gets forgotten again! So as not too overlap with Steve's build of the same kit & because it's impossible for me to build anything OOB I'm going to convert both of them into self propelled gun versions. The FT 75 BS was a modified version of the FT 17 replacing the turret with a fixed superstructure fitted with a short barreled 75mm fortress gun. Production begun in late 1918 with only 11 finished before the war ended, a further 29 were built in 1919 & they went on to serve in North Africa. There last use was against American forces during Operation Torch in 1942. The 10.5 cm leFH18/3 (Sf) auf Geschützwagen B-2(f) was a German modification of captured Char B1 tanks, the 75mm gun in the hull was removed & the turret was replaced with an new open topped superstructure fitted with as the name suggests a 10.5cm leFH18 field howitzer. 16 were modified between 1941-1942, they were at first used in France & then later transferred to Italy were their fate is unknown. Here is the obligatory box art photo, complete with the bargain price I payed for it It comes with a total of three sprues, two of them are for the tanks, the third is for a basic diorama (which I wont be using) & lastly there are two sets of rubber/vinyl tracks. The parts needed for the conversions will be 3D printed, they are just small boxes with barrels sticking out, so I dont expect it will be much work to design & print
  9. ’69 Chevy Yenko Camaro (07694) Fast & Furious 1:25 Revell There’s a little-known petrol-head friendly film franchise called The Fast & The Furious that started out with Vin Diesel and the late lamented Paul Walker in a film by the name of “The Fast and the Furious” that now extends to nine films with a two-parter as 10th and 11th of the saga, plus a spin-off movie with two more planned, one with the ladies in charge, and one for the men. I lost touch with it after number 2, as it I felt it was getting a little extreme in terms of what a car can do on the open road without CGI and wires helping out. The Chevy Camaro was GM’s Pony Car, and it debuted in 1966 to compete with Ford’s Mustang, and the same basic chassis was also re-used in another competitor to the Mustang, the Pontiac Firebird. By 1969 it was well-established, and was available with a 3.8L straight-six up to a terrifying 6.5L V8. A few large dealers such as Yenko Chevrolet offered special editions, sporting a 6.6L engine and with a substantial upgrade package that included disc brakes, toughened gears, suspension upgrades, fancy stripes and other items too numerous to mention. It was a niche car, and only a few hundred were sold in 4-speed manual and automatic transmission styles of the ’69 model. These days that makes it a pretty rare vehicle. That’s why the movie used replicas and patched-up junkers for the stunts, especially its final valiant demise when it jumps onto a speeding boat from the shore. That was accomplished by using a foam-filled bodyshell pulled at speed by a cable that was digitally erased in post-production. There were four generations of Camaro, with a hiatus after the millennium that was broken by the introduction of the fifth generation in 2010 that also had a Yenko variant, as does the current (at time of writing) sixth generation, although sales of the Camaro appear to be down in 2020, probably thanks to the pandemic. The Kit This is a special release of an original generic tooling of the Camaro dating back to 1990 in 1:25 scale, which is close enough to the de facto standard scale 1:24 as to make little difference unless you’re parking two of the same type together. It has aged reasonably well with very little flash evident except for one of the chromed wheels for some unknown reason, although a quick scrape seems to have removed that without issue. It arrives in an end-opening box with the Fast & Furious branding all over it and Vin Diesel’s mug staring into the middle-distance from one corner, wearing his traditional white v-necked tshirt and slightly confused expression. Inside are five sprues and a bodyshell in white styrene, a sprue of chromed parts, a clear sprue and a clear red sprue, decal sheet and colourful instruction booklet with colour profiles on the rear pages. The box is also GM and Universal Pictures branded, and there are trademarks everywhere, as you’d expect. The engine is first to be made, constructed from a substantial number of parts to depict the enlarged V8 in bright red that comes with the Yenko branding. The exhaust manifolds are each made up of two parts per side to obtain the correct look, and these fit into the sides of the engines, depicting four outlets per side. The floor pan is painted all-over black and is joined by the front axle and anti-roll bars, the latter painted aluminium, as is the moulded-in fuel tank at the rear. The engine bay is equipped with a number of small parts and a few decals before the engine is dropped into place on its mounts, with some red arrows showing the location points. At the front of the floor pan, the radiator, its fan and tin-work, as well as the battery are made up and glued across the front of the engine bay with a couple of hoses linking the engine to the cooling system, just like the real thing. The Camaro has a twin-exhaust to get the fumes out of the way quickly, with one pipe exiting on either corner of the rear. The exhaust and mufflers are made from two parts, then painted a dull metallic or rusty brown then joined to the rear of the manifolds and clipped in place at either end of a laterally mounted muffler just behind the rear axle, with the pipes exiting as already mentioned. The rear axle has its vulnerable differential moulded-in, and is fixed to the leaf-spring suspension at either end, then inserted into the rear wheel wells and joined to the transmission via a drive-shaft. Additional dampers are fitted to the rear axle to improve traction and reduce tramping when under power, then the four corners are treated to a full set of wheels. The fronts of the hubs are nicely chromed, while the rear is painted black, and appears to retain the drum brakes of the standard model. Purists may want to get that squared away if they think it’ll be noticed. The tyres are flexible and black, with a vintage zig-zag radial style tread and a seamline down the centre, which can be worn away with a sanding stick to give the tyres a scrubbed look. The bodyshell is painted a metallic blue, with the headliner black, although there are a couple of ejector pins present in the roof that you might want to hide. The windscreen and rear window are inserted from inside, and the front screen has the sun visors moulded-in, which are painted black and have the rear-view mirror glued between them. At the rear the clear red brake lights are put in from behind and backed by chromed boxes to give them a more realistic look, then the door cards are painted a dark grey with silver piping, and a decal for the Camaro badge in the centre of the thicker feature strip at the top. The passenger tub is similarly painted with Camaro decals on the front mats and for the rear parcel shelf, then the door cards are glued into position along with the simple rear seats with piping moulded into them. The front seats are made up from a front and rear L-shaped section, and have a decal for the sYc logo on the headrest, plus a set of five-point belts in decals for the driver’s side, cos who cares about passengers? The front seats have a slot on the underside that matches a ridge in the cab, and they glue in place there, with the driver on the wrong side of course. The gear selector slides in between them, and then it’s time to paint and detail the dashboard. It has decals for all the dials and the name badge, plus the radio and even the glove-box button. The steering wheel also gets a choice of three styles of decals for reasons I’m not familiar with, as I don’t tend to stare at steering wheels when there’s pedal-to-the-metal action going on! The wheel attaches to the short column, and that slots into the left side of the dash in turn, then the completed dash slides vertically into the cab at the front. The tub is finally joined to the bodyshell from below, and the firewall and brake master cylinder are inserted into the back of the engine bay, and at the front the grille with clear lamps and chromed rears are popped in from the front, with two fog lights on the valance. The floor pan and bodyshell are then mated, and the various inserts and chromed bumpers/fenders are glued front and rear, with numberplates, a rear spoiler, and the rear bumper having a pair of ugly over-riders, which was probably a legal requirement at the time. A single chromed wing mirror attaches to the driver’s door, and a chromed dish for the top of the air box is added to the styrene lower along with a couple of decals for it. There’s one decal depicting the grille in the side of the circular air box, a 427 Turbo-jet 425hp show-off badge on the top of the airbox, and a couple of smaller ones to boot. The airbox fits to the top of the block, a pair of corner braces are added to the front of the bay, and another show-off decal is applied to the slam panel in red, stating Venko/SG 427, just in case you’d forgotten. The bonnet/hood has sound insulation moulded into the inside, a couple of light ejector pin marks can be found in the corners, and to complete the assembly a circular fairing is added to direct the cool air from the intake on the bonnet into the waiting airbox for filtering. The bonnet has hinges moulded-in, and these flex and clip into place, leaving you with an opening bonnet unless you decide to freeze it with glue. There’s another raft of decals to enhance the sound insulation in the bonnet too, in lots of swooping shapes, plus a small red stencil at head height when the bonnet is open. Markings This is a film car, so you’ve only got the one choice of colours unless you just wanted another Camaro model to paint how you like. It’s a metallic blue with the Yenko stripes on the sides and bonnet, plus the optional decal stating “Driver: Paul Walker”, which confused me, as that’s the actor’s name, not the character. Maybe this was a tribute to him at some point? It’s a long time since I saw the film, and you know what my memory’s like. From the box you can build this, with the optional sYc number plates, Florida plates, or some undocumented Year One plates, as well as the driver decal mentioned earlier. Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The decals include rear wheel intake scoop decals, badges for the front wings, boot and bonnet, as well as repeaters/reflectors for the wings front and rear. Additionally, a pair of silver rectangles are supplied for the large rear light cluster centre sections. One overhead diagram shows the 2 Fast 2 Furious logo on the windscreen, and a Year One logo on the rear, which was part of the publicity for the movie, and the car still does the show circuit in the US with Year One, who are a muscle car parts supplier that provided tons of replica spares for the movie. Incidentally, the 2 Fast decal when applied should be more of an anti-glare band at the top of the screen, not slap-bang in the middle as shown on the instructions. Drivers need to see the road ahead of them, apparently. Conclusion It’s not the newest of toolings, but it’s still pretty detailed, especially in the engine bay. Ignoring the drum brakes and the odd ejector-pin mark, it should build up into a nice replica, with a bit of bling provided by the chrome and the movie decals. Who makes a 1:25 Paul Walker figure? Highly recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  10. Audi R10 TDi Le Mans Gift Set (05682) 1:24 Revell The R10 was the numerical and physical successor to the R8 chassis that saw success in the Le Mans Prototype 1 (LMP1) category from the 2006 season after unveiling in late 2005, until 2009, when it too was replaced by the updated R15 design due to the reducing level of success that it was experiencing by that time. All three vehicles were similar in looks, but under the hood they were all very different machines. The R10 was longer than its predecessor due to the space requirements of the extended V12 TDi engine, which was bored out to 5.5 litres and fed air from twin compressors working in parallel. It output over 700bhp at maximum power, and due to various oddities, the intakes were reduced in area to essentially even the playing field a little. There were issues to weight too, but those were resolved so that it could take part in racing, where it excelled despite being “held back” by the regulations, which extended to the aerodynamic systems that could be employed too. Why does racing have to be so complex? The type won many races during the time it was employed, all the while improving the reputation of the diesel engine that was flavour of the month with many governments and regulators at the time. After the retirement of the chassis from the factory team, they continued to be employed by independent teams until 2010, where the lack of restrictions led to the engines failing due to the increased torque output by the un-knobbled engines that were finally able to breathe properly. Their qualifying laps however were impressive, but that doesn’t win trophies. The R15 that replaced it had a short but interesting career that began with a win, but more changes to regulations led to be being replaced by the R18, which had an enclosed cockpit with a much different look. The Kit This is a re-release of the kit that was originally tooled in 2007 when the R10 was still at the height of its success. This edition adds a 3D Puzzle diorama backdrop that has the famous Dunlop bridge depicted, plus a set of six acrylic “thumb-pots” of paint, a paint brush and some glue as befits the Gift Set name. It arrives in a deep end-opening box, and inside are seven sprues plus two bodyshell parts in dull silver styrene, a sprue of clear parts, four flexible “rubber” tyres, and an instruction booklet with colour painting and decaling guide at the rear. The 3D base is shrink-wrapped with a page of instructions, and comprises three folded A3 sheets of glossy-surfaced foamboard that is printed in colour on both sides. Construction begins with the V12 diesel, which is a big lump and made up from a substantial number of parts, with the rear suspension wishbones and drive-shafts projecting from the sides of the transmission block. The complex 6-outlet exhaust manifolds have the turbos at the convergence point, with an exit pipe running aftwards to be joined by the exhausts at the rear later on. The complex rear empennage incorporates the supports for the rear spoiler and the rear light clusters, and these are made up first to be fitted to the rear of the floor tray after the engine has been installed along with its axles and brake disk assemblies. The ovalised rectangular exhausts pop out above the diffuser area, and are surrounded by the aforementioned aerodynamic panels, which are linked together by the twin-level spoiler, then put to the side while the cockpit tub and some of the internals are put together. The fuel tank behind the driver is detailed with a filler-cap, two small radiator baths are put together, and the dash is outfitted with some equipment and eight decals to add detail, with the lower tub prepared with the top surface of the front wing, some suspension wishbones, struts and other components such as brake disks and callipers inserted into the lower half. A steering arm snaps onto posts on the hubs to ensure they both point in the same direction, then the fuel tank is inserted into the rear of the monocoque, the seat along with its moulded-in belts and some nicely done decals to lay over the top are placed into their slot, the pedal group attaches to pegs in the floor, then the horizontal dash goes over the top. Moving back to the lower rear, the radiators and their intake trunking are placed in the pods on the left and right, preparing it for the joining of the assemblies together later on. Meantime, more assemblies are needed, with the tyres the first to be made up. The hubs are paired, with the rear pair slightly larger and wider than the front hubs, as are the tyres that fit over them. This allows you to paint the hubs beforehand, so there’s no tricky masking to do later. The vertical portion of the dash is made next, comprising two parts with two carbon-fibre decals, and the highly expensive steering “wheel” that more closely resembles a yoke, which has four decals of its own to represent the complex electronic displays that modern racing cars use. The front bodyshell is moulded in two halves, front and rear, with most of the shapes moulded into the parts, however there are some aspects that would have been difficult or impossible to mould in one piece, which is why there are some additional parts in the intakes for the radiators on the sides and in between the nose and the wheel pods. The vertical dash and another panel are inserted into the upper body too, and in the front, the clear lenses and their surrounds are glued into the light recesses, then covered over with a clear aerodynamic panel once they are painted. The front bodyshell is then placed over the monocoque and front axle, taking care to guide the seat back inside the driver cut-out and avoid damaging the decals and paint. The front wheels just snap into place at this point, although that depends on whether you’re painting as you go along. The tyres will benefit from a little trimming off the slightly off-centre flash on the rear rim, and a buff with a sanding stick on the contact patch will imitate the scrubbing that is usually visible on even a fresh set. The rear bodyshell is detailed next, with a pair of intake horns on the front of the rear wheel sponsons, with a little paint and decaling, depending on which team you are portraying. The front of the vehicle is then joined to the rear chassis and the rear bodyshell can be glued in place or left loose to show off the engine if you wish. Adding the three antennae on the nose and the two wing mirrors with separate glazing parts finish off the build, with the separate glazing allowing easy painting of the mirrors with Molotow Chrome, or Stuart Semple’s Mirror paint to accurately depict the reflective surface. Markings There are two livery options for this successful diesel, from two separate Le Mans races in 2006. The main differences are the red shade of the side-pods and the colour of the roll-over bars, as well as the racing number. From the box you can build one of the following: Team 8, Winner 24 hours of Le Mans, 2006 Team 7, 3rd 24 hours of Le Mans, 2006 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The decals include lots of carbon-fibre panels, a lot of decals for the instruments, and a full set of markings for the tyres. The carbon-fibre doesn’t show up well on the scan above, so I have added a photo from my phone below that shows the pattern to much better effect. The Diorama Base Supplied on three folded A3 sheets of foam board with glossy colour printing on both sides, the parts just push out from the backing, and fit together with slots and tabs, staying there thanks to friction and the squishy nature of the foam. The base comprises two layers with faceted wood-printed sides, and a nameplate for the front of the base. There are also pieces of armco, a stack of tyres and even a little wire fence, plus a large section of a Dunlop themed (and shaped) bridge, the likes of which are seen at many race tracks. The completed base can be seen in the corner of the box top as well as below. Conclusion This is a nice contemporary kit of the R10, and once a few sink-marks have been dealt with long with the seams between the add-in panels for the aerodynamics, a good replica with a well-detailed engine can be made. The base is quite impressive too, and will give a more appealing finish than the vehicle on its own, providing you have the space in your cabinet of course. Highly recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  11. SpPz 2 Luchs (03321) 1:35 Revell The Luchs, which means Lynx in English is an 8-wheel drive amphibious armoured car that was used by the German Bundeswehr from the 60s up until 2009 after a mid-life upgrade to the original. Over 400 were produced, and much like the WWII-era armoured reconnaissance Sd.Kfz.231 series, it also had a rear-facing seat for escaping from tricky dead-ends, and had a small turret on the top deck, which in this case mounted a 20mm Rheinmettall cannon, and although originally developed and constructed by Daimler-Benz, they were subsequently bought out by Rheinmettall, so it was eventually brought back into the same family. The Luchs was fast over metalled (tarmac) roads, and at speeds over 50kmh all axles were steerable, which must have been slightly disconcerting if you weren’t expecting it. The wheels wore low-pressure tyres for grip on unprepared terrain, and if they were shot-out in a firefight, they could run flat for a period to ensure they could get out of harm’s way at maximum speed. The gun is similar to that mounted on the Marder, and also shared its ammo with the Wiesel for economy of scale and ammo availability, a cannon that is accurate out to a maximum range of 2km, firing between 800-1000 rounds per minute in ideal and somewhat unrealistic situations. Even before retirement, it was being phased out by its replacement after the turn of the millennium, by the Leichter Gepanzerter Spähwagen (LGS) Fennec, named after a type of desert fox. The Kit This is a reboxing of a 1998 release, with newly refreshed decals and sprues in a different colour. The major difference however is the inclusion of a 3D “puzzle” diorama base of a Military Training Area that is included in the box. The kit arrives in a deep end-opening box, with two sprues of grey styrene, another in black, a small clear sprue, eight flexible black plastic tyres, a decal sheet, a length of wire taped to the front of the instruction booklet and the afore-mentioned diorama base, printed on foamboard. While this is a tooling that is now just over 20 years old, the detail is still pretty good, although there are some faint sink-marks here and there that are best dealt with before you begin putting it together. I’m not sure why the running-gear sprue was moulded in black, but that could be to appeal to the younger modeller that might not want to paint all the details under the hull. The inclusion of the 3D base also hints at that, but it’s quite nicely printed with fake wooden sides to enhance the effect. Construction begins with the two hull halves joined together along with the aft bulkhead, then the four suspension mounts with springs each end are fixed to the lower hull. The four axles are then built up with their steering mechanism and hubs, and they too are fitted onto the spring pairs, assisted by an arrow pointing toward the front of the hull, which is helpful due to the similar look to the underside at both ends. After installing the last of the linkages, there is a large diagram of the underside showing how everything should look once complete, and again the directional arrows make an appearance. The wheels are slipped over the rear parts of the hubs, then are trapped in place by the front side of the hub, with eight of them in total. At the rear are a pair of water-drive screws on a pivot, allowing them to be mounted facing forward for stowage on land, or backward if in use for amphibious operation. Under the front are a pair of headlamps with clear lenses and cages, plus two towing hooks and a central numberplate, with two large fenders over the front wheels, three aerial bases at the rear, and the bow-wash deflector panel at the front, which can be fitted stowed or extended, again for amphibious use. Side mirrors and flashing beacons are added on the glacis plate at the front, and at the rear a single reversing lamp with clear lens, plus two light clusters, tow hooks and rear number plate are glued in place. You have a choice of using some of the supplied wire or stretching some sprue by following the instructions, depending on whether you want to skewer the eyeballs of anyone looking closely at your work. Having used carbon-fibre for antennae before, that’s a real issue, and a wee bit dangerous. To finish the hull, a scattering of pioneer tools festoon the sides; a pair of driver hatches fit over the openings in either end; some grab rails and folded tarpaulins are added to the engine deck; a side hatch is put in position between the paired wheels, and a coiled towing cable is placed on the front deck. The gun is the first aspect of the turret to be built-up, and here you have a choice of barrels for your 20mm autocannon, with a cylindrical or flared flash-hider, either of which slot into the mantlet and its top cover. That assembly is trapped between the top and bottom halves of the turret, which give you the opportunity to leave the barrel able to elevate. Crew hatches; vision blocks and sighting gear plus an MG3 machine gun mount on the commander’s cupola; smoke grenade launchers; night vision system and another flasher on a pole on the rear of the turret are mounted to finish it off. The turret slots into place on a bayonet fitting, so won’t be dropping off if you check out the underpinnings later on. Markings There are four options on the decal sheet from various parts of the type’s service life, with lots of green and NATO camouflage in evidence. From the box you can build one of the following: SpPz 2 Luchs A1, 4. Kompanie Panzeraufklärungsbataillon 2, Hessisch Lichtenau, 1980/1985 SpPz 2 Luchs A2, Brigadespähzug 12, Übung Royal Sword, 1990 SpPz 2 Luchs A2, Panzeraufklärungskompanie 120, Mazedonien, 1999 SpPz 2 Luchs A2, Multinationale Brigade Süd, KFOR, Kosovo, 2000 Decals are printed for Revell by Italian company Zanetti, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Diorama Base Supplied on three folded A3 sheets of foam board with glossy colour printing on both sides, the parts just push out from the backing, and slot together with slots and tabs, staying there thanks to friction and the squishy foam. The base comprises two layers with a pair of supports running across the middle to prevent sag, and there are three piles of rubble that stand up, plus a large piece of a ruined building at the rear, as can be seen in the corner of the box top as well as below. Conclusion A welcome re-release of an older kit that still has plenty going for it, with the added bonus of a surprisingly nice diorama base. Recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  12. As mentioned in the chat thread I'll be hitting the strip with a Fox body Mustang drag racer. DSCF2329 by timothy jones, on Flickr Pics of the box contents tomorrow. There are a lot of small sprues.
  13. Boeing 767-300ER British Airways (03862) Revell 1:144 I'm amazed to recall that it has been nearly 40 years since I first saw the Boeing 767 back in 1982 at the Farnborough airshow, where it was making an appearance with it's stablemate, the Boeing 757. Since then over 1200 of all variants haver been delivered, with the cargo version still in production nearly forty years after the types first flight. Engine options were the Pratt & Whitney JT9D/PW4000, General Electric CF6, or Rolls-Royce RB211. British Airways opted for the RB211 as it was common (in sub-marks) to their 747 and 757 fleets, a choice made by only one other airline buying new (China Yunnan). There was also a lot of commonality between the 767 and 757 flight decks, which made crew training and availability more flexible. Entering service with BA in 1990, their 767's remained in service for 28 years until November 2018. In the early 2000's 7 aircraft were sold to Qantas, making them one of the few airlines to operate the RB211 powered 767.The initial variant was the -200, joined in 1984 by the -300 as modelled here, which had a 21 foot fuselage extension increasing seating capacity by around 50, depending upon layout. Revell's kit was first released in the early 1990's (the date moulded inside one wing is 1992), and has appeared in various different boxings over the years. This latest release is packed in one of Revell's end opening boxes featuring a painting of G-BNWB climbing into an evening sky. Inside is one polythene bag with all the sprues for the 'standard' 767 kit, and a separate bag containing the RB211 engines particular to this version. Also included is booklet of instructions in Revell's usual style, and a very nice A5 sized decal sheet. As far as I know only the previous Gulf Air/British Airways boxing has featured the Rolls-Royce engines, so they make a welcome return here. RB211's below: Produced in white plastic, the moulds are obviously holding up well the mouldings are very sharp with no evidence of flash. Detail is engraved, and comparatively few parts make up the whole kit. A separate clear sprue is provided for the cockpit glazing, but no provision is made for the cabin windows. This is not really a problem as most airliner modellers fill the cabin windows anyway, and use decals to represent them. A set of 'full' windows and a set of window frames are provided on the decal sheet, so you can make your own choice. Construction begins with the nose gear bay, which is inserted into the fuselage halves, which can then be joined. There is no cockpit interior provided, unlike in some of the more recent airliner releases. Wings and tailplane halves are then assembled and joined to the fuselage in a construction sequence which is simplicity itself. You have the choice to build the model 'in flight' with retracted undercarriage, or with it deployed for when on the ground. Finally the engines are added to complete construction of the model. The kit still contains the original engines which represent the Pratt & Whitney JT9D/General Electric CF6. As such they are a little 'generic' but useful if you plan to use aftermarket decals and build a non-BA machine. Aftermarket engines are also available if you wish to go down that route. Here they are, but are marked as not for use in the instructions: The decals are beautifully printed with good colours and razor sharp detail. The Chelsea Rose was one of my favourites from the 'World Image' era, so makes a great choice for this model. Plenty of stencilling is provided, and the tiny 'Roll-Royce' logos are little works of art. Your guarantee of quality is assured as sheet states it was designed by DACO, who only produce the highest quality. The painting/decaling instructions are in full colour, with paint numbers called out from Revell's own range. 767 window and door arrangements can vary by airline, so it is always worthwhile checking references for the particular aircraft you are modelling. The instructions show the correct layout for a BA 767. However the fuselage mouldings do not tie up with the drawings, particularly with reference to the door by the trailing edge of the wing. It is not present on the kit fuselage, which is not a problem, but at the very least you will need to fill some of the windows where it is located. I expect though that most modellers will anyway fill all the windows and use the decals provided, which have the correct pattern, and door outlines. Conclusion. It has been a while since this kit was last available, so it is great to have it back. The provision of the RB211 engines is also welcome, as this is the only 767 kit that can give you the BA option straight out of the box. Add to this the provision of a beautiful decal set that would cost a fair bit as an aftermarket sheet, and this is a great package all in one. Recommended. [edit] Some useful tips on building this kit from member Skodadriver here. [/edit] Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  14. Maybe it's the extended time I've had off, maybe I'm just going mad but I've had an idea... If I combine Revells Tornado F3 with their GR4 along with some scratch building in the cockpit and between the nose and the windscreen, I reckon I can backdate an F3 into the sole F2A, other wise known as the Tornado Integrated Avionics Research Aircraft (TIARA for short). Due to the parts break down of the Revell kit it's pretty simple. The main changes are swapping the vertical tail from the GR4 onto the F3 including the lower fillet, along with the shorter engines and the rear fuselage plug between the tail lugs and the thrust reverse buckets. There aren't much in the way of markings to worry about so that just leaves the cockpit modifications and the nose. The area just aft of the hinge line for the radar was modified to test an IRST, which I believe influenced the decision for one to be included on the Typhoon. There may be a few changes to aerials due to the systems added over the aircrafts life but nothing to hard to fix. It does of course leave me with a what if Tornado GR5 which will be a GR4 with the longer engines following the retirement of the F3 fleet. The other alternative was to do the F3 in it's final flight configuration, with a single Meteor Test Missile under the rear port missile station (ok, so not the final final flight) but that would need markings sourced and I don't have access to the drawings for the added calibration markings, extra Skyshadow Pods to convert to camera pods, etc. The GR4 would become a GR1 ZA326. As far as I know the F2 had the extra Fuel Tank behind the cockpit the same as the F3. Are there any other external changes between the F3 and F2A that I've forgotten about? TIA Chris (an obviously fevered mind, or just far too much time on my hands) PS. I worked on TIARA, the Meteor Trails Tornado and ZA326 years ago so I'd be happy either way. I might do the GR5 as 326 just to mess with some heads
  15. Thanks to Hannants "Future Releases" here's a first - and incomplete ! - glimpse into the Revell 2021 programme. Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/futurereleases/ Don't forget the 1/48th SR-71 project, see thread: link UPDATE 13/11/2020 UPDATE 14/11/2020 V.P.
  16. Some time ago I decided to build Revell's VW 1500 in 1/24 scale. The nostalgic Beetle (the Finnish nickname is " the Bubble") is for me one of the most important cars I have experienced. It was the first car my dad owned, a light green 1959 Beetle in which we used to travel across Finland and the Nordic countries. At the age of eighteen I did my driving school and passed the driving exam in a Beetle. For many years thereafter I used to borrow the new Beetle of my dad. The Revell kit was of very good quality and easy to build. It contained a lot of details, the fit was excellent, the decals were good and all in all the kit was a pleasure to build. I chose to paint the bodywork of the car with Tamiya light blue spray, TS-23. In my opinion that colour suited the Beetle very well and looked quite authentic to my eyes. For the smaller details and the parts inside I used Humbrol enamels and Vallejo acrylics.
  17. Hi comrades! My next build is ancient Su-7 kit in Revell box. The Shmer's kit is the best available in the last 40 years). I'll add some aftermarket parts. The prototype I chose from the Harpia's excellent reference book. So, let's start)) Thanks for looking
  18. I've had a couple of false starts with models I wanted to build, I hope this project will yield a couple of decent vehicles. I've had a couple of Revell Jaguar XK120s in my cupboard for a while, I bought two because I wanted to try building this kit two different ways. The vision: One car built as factory standard. This is based on a car I saw in an old magazine; light blue with a navy and grey interior, with rear-wheel spats. One car built as a bit of a tuned-up, example with a set of Dunlop alloys and no spats. This one will be Tamiya British Green with a tan interior. Here's a mock-up, the wheels and tyres came from K&R Replicas. It might take a bit of ingenuity to fix them to the axles. You can also see that the body needs a lot of cleaning up, those mould lines are just about the worst possible place. On the early XK the ventilation flaps in the front wings need filling in, as these were never fitted as standard (although I think some owners added them later). For the tuned up XK I want to replicate the look of a later car, where the sidelights were integrated with the front wings, rather than being separate, chrome parts. This is a nicely detailed kit, but the copyright information moulded into some parts shows that it is a Monogram moulding and it feels like it might be almost as challenging as the old Monogram Maserati 3500 kit I built last year.
  19. Greetings 109 Fans! My build will be the G-10 flown by Erich Hartmann of JG52. I am building the 1/32 Revell kit, which if the aftermarket available for this model is correct, means theres more than a few inaccuracies. Looking at the Big H i could end up spending loads og dosh correcting most aspects of the kit. However, being a tightwad, i will be saving my cash and building it OOTB. To accompany my build and providing inspiration i am reading the biography by Toliver & Constable, which is rather dramatically titled "The Blond Knight of Germany". Hartmann and the 109go hand in hand as its the only type he ever flew in combat. Between 1942 & 1945 he amassed an incredible 352 victories in the air, which has been debated by historians/academics ever since. I won't be starting the model straightaway as i have an ongoing build in the Under a Tenner GB. TFL, Cheers Greg
  20. Hi everyone, This build has been a long, long, time coming but what better time to start it than after a first COVID vaccination! To cut a long story short, over the years I've often seen the helicopters of the Midlands Air Ambulance charity flying over- whether it's coming into the QE Hospital in Birmingham, flying over our home now and again, returning to Cosford, or even while out and about. They do remarkable work and it's only right that I have a go at modelling such a fantastic machine. My previous foray into a 1:72 G-OMAA can be found here, but this time I will have to make my own decals and have a much better go at the interior. Here's the base kit: Colour scheme-wise, there are a few variations when it comes to decals. Although the 2 photos (from Cosford 2019) shown below would be good to use, I also have other reference material with the "Babcock" logo replaced by the "Bond" logo- it's a minor point, but I think the white lettering makes for a slightly more aesthetically interesting model. As you can see from the above, there are a lot of decals to try and replicate. Let's get cracking! All the best, Sam
  21. I was very reluctant to post this as wip, having seen the quality of other people's work. But having joined the forum, there is no point in hiding in a corner! The Revell kit was bought based on no information at all; I've found the fuselage had distinctly raised edges and the wing and tailplane roots needed a lot of filling. I've made life hard for myself, but have accepted that this is a learning experience. Using Milliput to fill in long thin gaps I found to be difficult. I should have watched the YouTube videos first, after all, there's a ton of stuff out there. I made a complete Pig's Ear of the canopy. Unfortunately I used enamel, so cleaning it up to redo it using a better technique will be difficult. And lastly, the aerial snapped off when it was being moved. I'm just following the kit instructions, no attempt being made to use 3rd party addons or follow adopt the paint scheme for a particular plane.
  22. I started this kit about two years ago and have seen various fellow modellers experiencing copious grief with the tracks. Even YouTube experts seem to finish up with gaps. I've been putting off trying to finish the model for months now because of the tracks issue. This is my first attempt at link & length tracks (A Tiger II is probably not the best place to start) I don't really want gaps if I can avoid them............. I've completed the wheels and cemented the idlers in place leaving the sprockets free as per some advice I found on t'internet. (This was before I received helpful advice to place the wheels on the axles and stick the tracks to them in order to construct a running gear unit accessible from both sides as the whole lot could be taken off and worked on.) I've painted the tracks on the sprues, possibly a mistake, as there's now paint in the link slots where the cement has to go. And I've added the top run on one side. I think, so far as I can see, that the next steps will be to work round the sprocket and down to ground level then on under the wheels round to the idler. Would value any suggestions. From experience does anyone think I need to clean out the link joints? Is there something else I should be doing? TVM in anticipation.....................
  23. Another 747 rolls off my busy Jumbo Jet production line... Its the well known and trusted Revell 747-100/200 kit. As mentioned in my previous posts,the newer those releases,the badder the quality of the kit. The moulds are really starting to get worn out,esp. the engines are sometimes beyond use. Some time ago,I ordered some resin engines from Welsh Models to overcome this problem as well as having the correct engines for the different 747 versions I wanted to build. As I have a soft spot for african airlines,I had to add a SAA 747 to my collection. I opted for a very old decal set from Runway 30 that I found on a certain auction platform. They were still in great condition given their age and fitted nicely on the Revell kit. The instruction consisted of a badly printed black and white photograph of the real thing,where it was nearly impossible to make out where certain decals should go. So some research on the internet was needed. The orange/red line decal seems to be more of a dayglo orange,I managed to tone it down a bit with semi-gloss clear.It looks still stronger on the pictures. The curve at the front should be less steep and should reach more the radome but the decals were designed that way. The windows are from Authentic Airliners Paints used are Revell gloss white 04 for the fuselage top,Testors silver for the underbelly,Revell light grey 371 for the wings,Tamyia mix of metallic grey and light grey for the coroguard panels. The engines are painted with Testors silver and Gunze chrome (cowlings) This particular 747-200 with the name "Lebombo" was delivered to SAA in 1971 as the first 747 and was put into service on long-haul routes to Asia and Europe Cheers Alex
  24. One of my latest models from 2019/2020. was a lot of fun to build, because there is nothing complicated. The only thing I did that I riveted the model. weathering and painting in the most usual methods we mostly know. sometimes it’s good to pick a model from the stash that you want to build 20 years ago !!! have fun….. Cheers Andy
  25. Fieseler Fi.103A/B V1 Flying Bomb (03861) 1:32 Revell Toward the end of WWII Hitler was scrambling around for technological ways to dig Nazi Germany out of the hole he had dug for them by attacking almost all of Europe, thereby turning most of the world against them. He relied heavily on nebulous "Wunderwaffe", or wonder-weapons that would save his bacon at the last minute, forgetting (or ignoring) the fact that continuous development of new weapons and technology saps manufacturing capacity and scientific knowledge away from existing projects that are already proving their worth. The Vergeltungswaffen-1 was one such weapon, known as the V-1, V-1 Flying Bomb, Doodlebug or Buzz-bomb due to the rasping note of the pulsejet that powered it. It was made using minimal strategic materials, mostly welded steel for the fuselage and plywood for the wings, with an Argus pulsejet engine, a glorified blowlamp, mounted high on the rear of the tail, short straight wings and elevators, the controls for which were made by compressed air that also pressurised the fuel tank. They were launched from a ramp because the pulsejet won't work properly until it has substantial airflow, which was achieved using a rocket-propelled trolley that was jettisoned at the end of the ramp. They could also be air-launched by specially adapted He.111s, and their range was adjusted by adding or subtracting fuel and pointing it in the direction of London. Their downfall was the size of the gantries, which were static and easily spotted for destruction, plus the relatively small explosive payload. Once the Allies pushed into France they were no longer able to be launched from ramps due to their range, so air-launch was the only option, and that slowed down their influx to a relative crawl. The newly completed Tempests were perfectly suited to shooting them down, and there are stories of them being tipped off course and shot down, as well as downed by Anti-Aircraft fire. The Kit This is a reboxing of a new tool kit by Special Hobby. It arrives in an end-opening box with a painting of a V-1 over what looks like the industrial areas of that there London, with a Hurricane coming in guns blazing in an attempt to intercept it. Inside are three sprues of mid-grey styrene, a small decal sheet, and an instruction booklet. The Doodlebug has none of the niceties such as cockpit, landing gear etc., so it should be a quick build that is made to stand out by its paint finish and weathering. Construction begins with the combined fuselage and pulsejet housing halves, with a rusty colour used inside the combustion tube. The intake and baffles are added to the front before closure, and that's the fuselage almost finished. The nose cone can take one of two forms. A bucket-shaped protective cover, or the most usually seen pointed nose-cone with spinner tip, both covering a bulbous front insert that has a decal supplied in case you wanted to leave the cone off. A length of conduit connects the nose to the engine, and the tail planes are added to the slots in the rear under the pulsejet. The wings are kept level by the use of a styrene spar part that should make installing them simple, as well as strengthening the join. The spar has two marks that must show one on each side before they are glued in place. After that has set, you can slide the wings on, which are both made from top and bottom halves, plus a small bulkhead at the root, which will be useful if you are showing your model with the wings stowed. That's the bomb/airframe built, but there's a trolley that goes with it, making displaying your model an easier task. This has four twin castor wheels, a rectangular base frame, pull handle and twin trestles to hold the fuselage in place. If you are stowing the wings, there are two additional trestles that have grooves in for the wings, which store tilted against the fuselage. A nice addition that will save you from having to build a launch ramp in the garden! Markings The decal sheet is small with decals for three options, and consists of stencils only apart from a later B variant that has a pair of interlinking red crosses on the forward fuselage to tell it from its externally identical brethren that were loaded with less powerful explosives. From the box you can build one of the following: Fi-103A V-1, Wk.Nr. 256839 – Tramm/Dannenberg, 1945 Fi-103A V-1, Wk.Nr. 708153 – Tramm/Dannenberg, 1945 Fi-103B V-1, Flakregiment 155/W - France, Summer 1944 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. You will be pleased to hear that the red crosses for option C are included for your convenience, with as little carrier film “web” between the arms as possible without making the task too difficult. Conclusion I've always found the V-1s fascinating, and having a nice new tooling of one in a scale where the painting can be done in greater detail is a tempting proposition. It's also tempting to stand one next to a Special Hobby Hawker Typhoon or one of HK's Meteors too. Highly recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
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