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  1. I have never built a Resin kit and I have bought some from Russia. I have paid for them and have heard no more!!!!!!!! If and when these kits turn up I would like to have built a resin kit so this will be the first. I wonder if Moa has built one of these? Box and instructions. Decals. Kits bits still in their plastic bags. I will take some better shots when the parts are removed from the bags. Thanks for stopping by. Stephen
  2. Hawker Hunter Brass undercarriage set (for Airfix) 1:48 AeroCraft Models By now you've probably noticed there was a Hunter theme going on yesterday. We reviewed the flying surfaces here, and the corrected pylons here, and now it's time to finish the triple with the landing gear, or undercarriage as we sometimes call it. As usual with AeroCraft sets, it arrives in a ziplok bag, with the brass parts within a smaller one to prevent chaffing between the disparate materials. Inside the bag are five brass parts and one resin part. The main gear legs are ostensibly the same as the kit parts only stronger, but the nose gear leg has been strengthened and augmented to improve its accuracy, with the new resin nose wheel of the correct spoked type. The brass parts give you extra strength in that department, and I'm sure everyone's had some kind of gear breakage in the past due to mishandling or weakness in the original design. You will need to remove the casting gates that have already been nipped off, which you can do simply by sanding them smooth with a good quality file. While you're doing that, any slight imperfection and mould seams can be cleaned off too, leaving you with a smart and strong set of gear. The resin wheel is cast within a thin wafer that can be scraped/cut off with a sharp blade, and then any left-overs sanded away with a fine grade stick for a much more detailed and strong nose wheel. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  3. Hawker Hunter Underwing Store Pylons (Airfix) 1:48 AeroCraft Models We've got a new Hunter from Airfix, and it's very nice thank you. It does however have a few foibles, as do all models. If you're planning on using the weapons pylons on your build, you might want to know that the kit pylons are a little undersized and have some top and bottom "flanges" missing from out of the box. You can either fix those yourself if you're minded, or pick up a pleasantly inexpensive set of resin pylons from Ali, which should be pretty much a drop-in fit once you've removed the individual casting blocks. They arrive in a small ziplok bag, but if you order for delivery, you'll likely have your purchase tip up in a letterbox friendly card box. There are four pylons supplied, and both pairs are handed as well as marked with letters on the stub. The inner pylons are the larger of the two, with the skinnier ones on the outer station, all of which have the same pin layout as the kit, so they should just fit right in, as should any weapons you want to hang off them. As usual with resin, take the precaution of wearing a mask when cutting or sanding resin, as the tiny particles are harmful to your health if breathed in. Washing the parts in warm water will also improve the adhesion of paint, as there may still be some moulding release agent on the parts when you receive them. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Hawker Hunter Ailerons, Flaps and Air Brake set (for Airfix) 1:48 Aerocraft We've finally got a new tool Hunter in 1:48, and it's from our local (British) model company too. What could be better? Well, a bit of extra detail is always welcome, especially if you're planning to mess around with the flying surfaces. The kit parts are fine for what they do, but if you're popping them out to "dirty up" the airframe, there's a bit of detail missing. Here comes Ali with a new set to correct just that omission. The set arrives in an unassuming ziplok bag, and inside are five pieces of resin, each on their own pouring block, with a wafer of flash helping to protect the delicate areas like the hinges. The parts are drop-in replacements for the kit parts, and just need removing from their blocks, which should be easy, as they are attached along the thin trailing edges. The new ailerons have the correct outline, while the flaps are detailed inside with rib and stringer details, and finally the air-brake part has had its tricky ejector-pin marks removed from between the ribs, and a little extra detail added that was missing. Overall, a worthwhile addition to your model. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  5. Since my admission back into the Xavier Ward for PTSD at St John of God Hospital in Nth Richmond Sydney NSW, the staff has ask if I could leave one of my model ships for display? But since a couple of these a going to form apart of display, “I said I do something a wee bit special which would link in with the work done here on the Xavier Ward and why the Xavier Ward is here in the first place.” So I selected a Daring Class Destroyer by OzMods in Resin 1/700. HMAS Vendetta was the only ship of its class in the RAN to see active service and fire it’s guns in anger. It seen active service with the US 7th Fleet on the gun line during the Vietnam War and from all accounts the yanks prefer her to use her more than other ship on the gun line due her firepower and accuracy. Between October 1969 to March 1970 she fired 13,295 rds at approximately 1,750 different targets. In fact She and her crew did so well on the gun line the 7th Fleet requested for another Daring Class Destroyer from RAN to replace the Vendetta instead of the more modern Charles F Adams DDG’s that the RAN had in service at the time. This model once completed will form a part of the Veterans Week displays done by the staff and members of the Xavier Ward for PTSD at St John of God Hospital in Nth Richmond NSW Australia.
  6. Hi folks Been a while since I posted anything. Not been doing much but have worked on a couple of figures. This is the latest completion, and I shall add others as they get to the finishing line. Those of you who've been watching Game of Thrones should recognise this little guy... In the flesh, in front of the television cameras: ... and here's the basic resin parts: and partway through the (very straightforward) build: and the final result: and some close ups: Hope you like him. He goes on display in my local model shop tomorrow. As always - any comments and criticism are welcomed. Kev
  7. Hi mates, Having just finished one folded wing project (my Fairey Firefly TT.4), and having not learned any lessons by doing so, I decided to jump head first into another! And in resin to boot! This time it's the de Havilland Sea Venom in fabulous 1:72 scale. The build consisted of the basic Sea Venom kit, plus the optional folding wing set, both from those master craftsmen in the Czech Republic, CMR. I love CMR kits - the level of detail is astounding. This project is a tribute to Steve Long (NAVY870) from the Camden Museum of Aviation in Australia. Steve was such a big help with my Firefly build, that I wanted to build a model of an aircraft that he restored, Sea Venom WZ895. He was a huge help on the build, making sure I had all of WZ895's configuration correct. I think I got it all! Project: Royal Australian Navy de Havilland Sea Venom FAW.53 Kits: Czech Master Resin (CMR) de Havilland Sea Venom FAW.21/22 & FAW.53 (kit number 231); Folding Wings Set (kit number DS7207) Scale: 1:72 (Her Majesty's Own Scale) Decals: From the kit, representing WZ895, 870-NW, No. 724 Squadron RAN, Naval Air Station Nowra, Summer 1959 Photoetch: Included with the kit, primarily for the cockpit, control surfaces, antennae, windscreen wiper, wing fences, etc. Vacuform: Two copies included with the kit, and old Fumble Thumbs needed them both! The canopy is supplied as one piece, and must be cut into three sections to be displayed open Paint: Gunze H333 Extra Dark Sea Grey, H331 Dark Sea Grey, H74 Sky, H11 Flat White, H12 Flat Black, H77 Tyre Black, H322 Phthalo Cyanine Blue, H329 Yellow FS13538; Alclad 101 Aluminum, 115 Stainless Steel, 314 Klear Kote Flat, and a bunch I forgot about. Weathering: Post shading to simulate paint fading and wear, and the assorted stains and hydraulic fluid/oil streaks. I applied a grey wash to the Sky underside, and a black wash to the EDSG topside. Improvements/Corrections This was built pretty much out of the box, the only things I added were: Canopy shades Whip aerials (two on the rear canopy and one under the starboard boom) Longer jury struts (the kit supplied struts were too short for proper alignment of the wings when folded) Build thread: Link Now, let's see some photos! Enjoy! Perhaps the most difficult part of the build was getting the alignment of the wings correct. They're not perfect, but I think they're pretty close! I couldn't figure out how to hold the model upside down to take some photos of the underside once the folded wings were on, but I do have these in-process shots before they were added. I wasn't completely finished with the weathering, etc. but I think you can get the idea. And a couple of family shots: Cheers, Bill
  8. I wasn’t sure in which forum to post this, Sci-Fi or Figures, so I flipped a coin and here I am. This is a resin and metal kit I found on eBay and as I wanted a break from my current build I thought it would be a relaxing interlude...wrong! It’s quite an involved build with a lot of tidying up to do on the resin and metal parts, and then there was the drilling and pinning of the parts to contend with. It’s painted with a mixture of Humbrol enamels and Tamiya acrylics (applied with brush and airbrush) with a final coat of Humbrol Matt varnish to seal it all in. I’ve since noticed that on the photo the shoe laces don’t show very well although they do with the naked eye. I used a soft pencil to highlight them so maybe I need to rethink my options. Anyway, here’s Marvin the Martian looking very malicious, look out Bugs!
  9. Scale solutions resin model of the Derelict from Alien,a fairly hefty chunk of nicely cast resin,No air holes and a reasonable fit,Have been watching this kit for a while,However the company is based in Australia,so,with the initial outlay,along with postage and tax,it seemed unlikely I would ever get one,However a partially built one came up on E-Bay and I was the proud owner of another "Grail " kit.The seller was grand too,chucked in some miliput and styrene wire as well. As you can see,the two main booms had been already built. A little space jockey figure can be built into the main hull. You can build one of two versions,the intact version as seen in "Alien",or the damaged version with a collapsed beam as as seen in "Aliens" An extra base piece is added to lay the collapsed beam on. As i was building the alien version this base piece was not required,but I hate to see good resin go to waste,so ,with a bit of flipping and modelling clay I have joined the two together. A bit of minor surgey later. And all blended in. And given a coat of primer. I think the Derelict is an iconic design,and really sold the idea that it was designed by an Alien culture,Giger at his awesome best,hope to do it justice. Cheers Andy
  10. My entry will be a Kiwi Resin Models CT-4A from 1 FTS, RAAF Point Cook, Victoria. They were knick-named 'Plastic Parrots' in service due to the yellow/green delivery scheme. Later they were painted in an orange/white 'Fanta Can' scheme (one the kit box). This will be the scheme I will be building. It is a full resin kit with a Falcon vacform canopy. I will be doing one of the aircraft I flew in as a Navigator trainee back in November 1990. I managed a whole 7.6 hours in 4 flights, the last log entry includes a landing (for lunch) at the halfway point (Horsham, Victoria). I also have a Flying High Decals sheet that will allow me to do any of 3 from my logbook, now which one? A19-043, the first I flew in (with some stick time), or perhaps A19-056 with the longest flight time? I suppose I will decide at decalling time. To my surprise, I found a second (more basic) kit in the same very small box. This kit lacks a lot of interiors parts and a nose wheel and strut The kit supplied in the box is more detailed with cockpit detailing parts and separate flaps. It is missing one of the main gear legs and some plastic tube for the exhaust pipes which I could use from the other kit or make up from card and my spare tube stocks for the exhausts. Again I will decide when the time comes. The instructions a very basic, they include a list of parts and a note to use epoxy or superglue. No assembly sequence included. A painting guide for both schemes is included with some painting notes for the prop and gear legs Comparing the 2 you can see the dimensions of the 'bagged' CT-4A are off, too long and too skinny, the tailplane of oversized as well. The wings are correct though.
  11. Hello, While working on my YF-105A (over on W.I.P.), I managed to misplace the canopy. After checking my two backup kits, only one kit had the canopy! As these kits are rather hard to come by (Revellogram F-105D) these days, I decided to explore my options. First I check around, looking for a vacuform canopy for the 1/72 F-105D. Nada, which is not surprising, considering the "ear flaps" and thinness of the original. Next, I looked for resin canopies. I found a really great one, but only in 1/32nd scale, and after all, we modelers must maintain some sense of propriety and not stray from The One True Scale! The one I found in that scale was however, a beauty, from the F-105B correction kit, from the former Meteor Productions, Inc or Cutting Edge F-105B correction kit, as sold by Mr Dave Klauss: This is a beautifully rendered masterpiece, and if I could buy one in my scale, I would! But, since I can't, I thought to study the work of the masters. Closer examination of the molder pieces (only the clear ones here, not trying to replicate the kit!) revealed that The molded bases or resin reservoirs, as they are in real life, are both slightly tapered toward the canopy parts, and the corners of the bases are cut off. This serves to aid in removal of the part from the mold after casting, and may save even a little resin, a concern more having to do with mass production, rather than the one-offs that I'm trying to do. Secondly, and hard to see in the front main canopy, are the small bits added between the base and the canopy to provide clearance and material for sawing the finished canopy from the base as shown better below: In my rough and tumble proof-of-concept effort effort here I have used a chunk of old pressboard for the base piece, but I have added some 10 thou card between the base and the part, for the afore-mentioned reasons. All these were glued together with RS watch cement, as CA glues have bad effects on some resins and some silicone rubber. In the background is a box made of Lego blocks, on part of a Lego base that I cut to the size needed. One can make the box from all sorts of things, but some kinds of plastic have the advantage that the silicone rubber won't stick to them. The large piece of scrap blue silicone is there only to hold the main canopy at the correct angle while the glue dries. You will note that in the first photo, additional material (denoted by the hatch lines) had been added when the master was made, to enable the cast part to be pulled straight out of the mold, while my first effort was left at an angle. Eventually my masters were stuck onto a thin layer of clay that provides the bottom of the box, as well as sealing the lower edges of the box, to avoid silicone leaking out of the mold. It should be noted that regular modelling clay won't do here, as the process requires sulfur free clay, or bad things happen! For this casting effort, I'll be using the Amazing Clear Cast clear resin, which my bottles are around 2 - 3 years old, and OoMoo25, which is brand new. Both of these were procured from Amazon. The Oomoo 25 was properly mixed 1:1, and poured into the mold box, with the masters in place. I took no special effort about bubbles because, I use pressure casting as a rule. For those interested, I have provided a link to my set-up, and would be happy to answer any questions about it: Ed's Poor Mans Pressure/Vacuum Casting Pot The silicone was poured into the mold bob and allowed to set under 55lbs pressure, for 75 minutes: Above right, after the Oomoo had set up, the masters were removed, and I was ready for a casting try. You will note the total absence of bubbles, due to the pressure casting. I then mixed up the resin and poured it into the mold, and allowed it to set under 55 lbs pressure for 48 hours, as per the resin directions. When that time was up, I attempted to de-mold the resin canopy pieces, and then ran into the problem: First off, the resin is kind of yellow. I believe this is due solely to the age of the bottles. Normally, resin has a shelf life of 3 - 6 months, maybe more with a little care, like nitrogen shot into the opened bottles, to keep oxygen and especially any moisture, from getting to the resin, even in a re-sealed bottle. Second, the parts were still tacky and flexible, not hard. This could also be due to the age of the resin, but it could be that perhaps I shout have pre-cured the silicone mold in the oven at 150 degrees or so for a few hours. This time, etc, vary by manufacturer and product. Since I had used this very resin a couple of years ago with Oomoo 30 (which only varies in setup time) I didn't consider this. Another factor is that the molding is very thin. Castings less that 1/8" or so are problematic for many resins, many also requiring a post cure period in the oven to achieve maximum strength and durability. I will investigate some of these issues in my next attempt. Since the resin was still soft, I managed to scratch this piece getting it out of the mold, and totally destroyed the windscreen part! I was however, encouraged by the fact the that the thin wall section was able to be reproduced by the pressure casting method, and the detail was all faithfully seen, and given the old resin, still had good clarity. After three days out of the mold, the casting is still hardening, but slowly. I have ordered another brand of clear resin, and some 3/8 clear acrylic sheet for the base part. I will take everything I have learned from this effort, and make a second attempt. Please stay tuned if interested, as it will take a few days for this all to be done, as well as more time in the mold and pre and/or post curing time. You will kindly note again, the absence of any bubbles, due to the pressure casting! I would dearly love to know the brand of the resin and silicone that Dave Klaus used for his pieces, if anyone out there happens to know, or any useful suggestions from others who have tried this process. I'm certain I will succeed, just not sure how long it will take! Back ASAP, Ed
  12. My first GB of the year and straight into it with a big resin monster, Fisher Model & Patterns 1/32nd Sea Fury! I’m a huge fan of these guy’s, they turn out some of the best resin models available anywhere! I happen came across this model by chance and at a price significantly cheaper than normal so I couldn’t resist. The box is packed full of very carefully wrapped bits of resin….warning the photos below are pure hardcore resin porn!!!!! The fuselage is a one piece hollow cast thing of beauty with the only mould line being on the bottom of the fuselage, easy to fix and remove. The wings are cast in 2 pieces with the main gear wells moulded as a separate piece as well. They were moulded like this to easily allow you to have the wings folded, they supply all the extra bits for this as well. I’ll probably end up building her with the wings folded to help save some space. The rest of the bits, all nicely casted, the rockets are a wee bit wrapped but I may end up replacing/scratching building some replacements, something to think about there. The prop even comes with a special jig to help align the blades correctly as well.......which I forgot to add into the photo when I took it!! The final bits are the cast metal gear, they need to be as there’s some weight in this model and the canopy. It’s super clear and some of the most finely/think cast clear resin I’ve ever seen. The supplied decals are very extensive but don’t cover the bird I want to build so I’ll be using most of the kit supplied decals and the extra I need will come for the Nova Scale set for RAN Sea Fury’s. The scheme I've chosen is for a RAN bird that operated off the HMAS Sydney in 1951 off Korea. To go with this build I bought Valiant Wings “The Hawker Sea Fury”, it’s full of great reference stuff I’ll need, especially the wing folding section. The only issue with the model was that the spinner was broken, but I fixed this already. It’s a big build for the start of the year but it’s a model I’ve really wanted to build for ages. Plus with luck I'm on holidays for a week so with my shift pattern I get to have 3 week at home, so plenty of build time for me for a change. The only scary part of the build will be the folding wings……for that I have to cut up the wings!
  13. While this is not a model, some may still find it of interest. How I went about casting clear resin replacement canopies for some current and future builds, using two different molding procedures: Clear Cast Resin Canopies A few pics of the finished product, except for final clean-up and painting: Thanks for looking, Ed
  14. Finished my self imposed one month posting and forum hiatus but still got this one done for April and my seventh for the year: A sweet but full of casting /moulding flaws kit from Anigrand. I scribed and riveted the surface, Alclad and Mr Color for a "Man in the High Castle" vibe. Decided that post war the victorious Luft '46 boys would have dumped the camo and gone full shiny. Scratched an exhaust and throttle body to distract from the strange oval hole Anigrand presented, then made up some aerials for radar/drone use and drove myself crazy gluing 0.1mm nickel rod. Decals from various Skys sheets and spares box. Fun was had and no styrene was unnecessarily hurt. WIP here:
  15. Say what? Well that's what it says on the box: Another one of those wacky end of the war flights of fancy that the German air industry became obsessed with. seeing as I have a workstation free, I thought its high time I did a resin kit so pulled this one out of the stash. Looks simple enough, there's plenty of prep to do on various moulding glitches etc (yup, resin dust is more toxic that a Justin Bieber song: face mask, spandex body stocking and total immersion of self in warm custard will be observed) First job is to run this through the ultrasonic cleaner and some Dawn dish soap. Noticed its missing its "nozzler" so some form of exhaust will need to be bodged crafted. Scheme wise, I'm thinking a touch of "The Man in the High Castle" if you get my drift... Cheers Anil
  16. Hey my modelling guru's, I need some info on using resin upgrades, and I have not been able to find much via YT. Partly because I am in a new house and haven't been able to get my internet hooked up yet, so I have to buy load on my crappy phone, and its REALLY SLOW, plus, most of the videos are based on full resin kits in Gundam or something, not really the kind of upgrade kits we face. Anyway, I am pretty sure I got the cleaning resin part, using respirators when sanding/cutting (what ever happened to the old highschool shop class, where lost fingers were a thing of pride, we are too safety conscious these days!) Anyway, I have some resin conversions from CMK in 1/48. Wow, these bits are small, looks like antenna and or pitot tubes stuck to the big resin base. Any tricks to removing them without destroying the actual parts? They look very delicate, and there is ten tikes the amount of wasted resin, as the actual parts, is that normal. Then a have some resin nozzles in 48 (why is that called quarter scale? I thought 1/4 =quarter scale) anyway, I am not sure how to best remove those nozzles without damaging the nozzles themselves? Any links to videos would be great for later, just some pictures and explaining will do just fine too. Thanks in advance, as always, Anthony stalker6recon D'Agostino
  17. This is my rendition of the Planet Models' Republic XF-91 Thunderceptor. This may look kind of generic at first glance but, a closer look will show it has reverse taper wings with both the chord and camber being larger at the tip then the root, with the wheels folding into the tips and a V tail (they called it a "butter fly" tail but to me it looks like donkey ears, so I'll go with V). This is my third Planet Models kit and while I was very happy with the first 2 this one was a bit of a disappointment. The castings looked very good with no flash, but as soon as I started sanding I was in pin hole hell. The fuselage was also about a 1/2" (1.25cm) too long according to the drawings in the Ginter book and the length specification. I fixed this by removing a section just aft of the wings. Other dimensions were close enough for me not to worry about them. The decals were excellent. So on to the pictures: This is how much I had to remove Next up is an AP-2H gunship using the Hasegawa P2V-7 and the Blackbird conversion set. Enjoy.
  18. A little Dujin resin from a couple years ago: We modelers are truly grateful for the small/cottage kit industry. They release kits that are a joy, different, out-of-the-beaten-path and frankly delightful -and civil-. They do not posses or have access to all the resources that big industry has, so they do their best. Many times their standards are really high, and sometimes they are not really quite there. But without them, we may be condemned to a dull, repetitive endless stream of the same-old-same-old. So, to all of them, and in this case the late Monsieur Dujin, our gratitude, admiration, and support. Now, all that been said, please accompany me in another tongue-in-cheek kit adventure... The French not only created Film Noir, they also developed the Kit Noir "genre". This is a kind of kit surrounded by darkness and mystery, cast -as fate is indelibly cast- in resin, where the parts are not quite defined, as if immersed in a resin fog; their location is imprecise, and the instructions vague, arcane or nonexistent. Since French also invented Champagne, they like to give this kind of kit a "bubbly" feeling, full of little bubbles of gas; something that may have made them uplifting, but instead, when you start to fill-in all those pin holes and air bubbles, it feels more like a bad Champagne hangover. In any case, no one else would probably release those designs. So, you have to pull your sleeves up, and get at it. This little thing came in the mail courtesy of Keith Hudson, so to him my gratitude (and under-the-breath grunts). When I opened the package, I got the impression that this was a better Dujin kit than the ones I have seen or built...but it happened to be just partially so. Prop, main wheels, tail-wheel, and something indefinable that could be the landing gear legs, were so mismatched in the resin web that they merited the guillotine. The same device could have been used to separate some of the parts from the occasional resin tree. But once done and cleaned-up, most of the shapes were there, and if not perfect, seemingly pretty buildable. I got a spare seat. The prop was repaired, the tail-wheel and main wheels were replaced by Aeroclub items (from an ever-dwindling stock). The strange undefined elements will be replaced by wire, solder, or styrene rod, once their function is determined, if ever. Since Dujin kits do not have a parts' diagram, exploded view, or equivalent, you are left to enjoy the suspense. A length of wire, vacuum-formed windshields (two!) and decals are also included. Most likely the vac windshields will be replaced. I deem the decals, as usual with old Dujin kits, trash can fodder. I got new ones from Arctic Decals. The Fairey Tipsy Junior, built in Belgium by a Fairey subsidiary, was designed by (you would have never guessed) Mr. Tips. It falls outside the scope of my time-driven subject envelope, but we'll make an exception, since it is so cute. Oh le petit coochee-coochee!
  19. Happy New year all,Hope you had a good Christmas,my astonishingly wonderful wife got me this beauty. The presentation and casting are top notch. quality bit of kit Goes together straight out of the box The Semi-Transparent alien egg is a nice touch The only real drawback is that John Hurts estate didnt OK his likeness,but with a bit of lighting I think it will look OK.
  20. The Westland Wessex trimotor passenger carrier of 1930 is such an attractive machine that caught my attention very early on my modeling endeavors. I started to gather material to do the usual scratchbuild and had managed to fill a pretty portly folder, when I saw that Rugrats released it as a resin kit with accessories. I understand that Rugrats released several batches, and this to me seems to be an early one, since the decal sheet carrier had aged possibly beyond redemption, as you can see in the accompanying images (no, I don't like to put the decal sheet against the window to fix it, it doesn't, really and after you apply it eventually yellows again). The kit portrays one of the variants the Wessex transport spawned, so bear that in mind when you look at your references. It is a great joy that a manufacturer will release these wonderful jewels of the Golden Age, and the effort should be saluted and applauded. They also offer a DH 66 Hercules, a DH 83 Fox Moth, a DH 84 Dragon, DH 90 Dragonfly, DH 86 Express and a DH 91 Albatross. I am familiar with all these planes, but with none of these kits, nevertheless I am happy that someone will make them available to us. Congratulations on that. The contents of the box, with reference material: Many parts are provided, but among the most practical for me: the spare for the transparencies and the inclusion of the resin master to vac more if anything bad happens: White metal parts, decent, but of slightly less quality than Aeroclub items: More white metal parts, some of them with a not so smooth surface: The engine pods and wheels, subtle wing detail: The ill decals. Wonder if the manufacturer may provide good ones: Of great printing quality, though, but as an all-encompassing carrier you have to individually trim. This may not be ideal for the window frames, for example: The fuselage is free of those silly resin bricks that some manufacturers attach to them, necessitating a jackhammer to separate the part from them: The seemingly unavoidable pinholes (very little of them, fortunately) -some of these are not pinholes, but the strut locations: One exhaust survived the de-molding, the other did not: More pinholes:
  21. I've rebuilt the build thread for this unusual subject (originally from an old What-If Groupbuild) with new picture links! Republic F-103A Thunderwarrior 5th FIS, Minot AFB, North Dakota 1969. Commander's aircraft for the 1969 Air Show season. This radical interceptor design was cancelled in 1959 after reaching the mockup stage, [what-if mode ON] but was reinstated in 1962 after the Cuban Missile Crisis as three Soviet long-range supersonic bombers were poised to enter service. Two full wings of Thunderwarriors were deployed at Minot AFB, ND and Elmendorf AFB, AK. [/what-if mode OFF] 😉 Despite extremely short range, the F-103 was a point-defence interceptor with combined turbo-ramjet propulsion, capable of Mach 3.7 up to 80,000ft and dash speed of up to Mach 5 at 100,000ft. Its peak rate of climb was 70,000ft/min in ramjet propulsion above Mach 2.5. The Thunderwarrior was armed with 6 AIM-47 radar-guided missiles and could track and kill supersonic targets at over 100nm range. (All that last bit is the true projected specs back in 1954!) Anigrand Craftswork 1/72 resin kit modified, with homemade decals. Alclad finish, Xtracrylix other colours. This was actually a fun build cos everything I tried worked!! Al
  22. 40 years since I crouched down in my Cinema seat thinking "Dont touch the bloody thing you Idiot" I can add Kane to my Alien collection,the head is a replacement with a better likeness ,scale is listed as 1/9th. Good wholesome modelling fun,though got a bit sweary when hollowing out for the lighting
  23. I stumbled across this seller on ebay today, I thought I would share as they have some very nice looking kits. https://www.ebay.com/str/ny3dcreations I particularly like this one.
  24. Heinkel He.279 Spirale (MX4857) 1:48 Master-X There are a few theories regarding the Heinkel He.279, some stating that it is a pure fabrication, others that it was a propaganda mock-up using a Heinkel 280 fuselage and wings to confuse the Allies, and another that it may actually have existed in some limited shape or form. Speaking personally, it has a few oddities that set the spider-senses tingling, and all but one of the very limited pictures of it online are clearly models, despite people believing otherwise. The old panel lines give the game away every time! The picture that does give one pause for thought is a head-on shot with a Luftwaffe chap stood nearby, but even that has a strangeness about the four-bladed prop that sends it packing into the "uncanny valley". It is purported to have been driven by an experimental X-arrangement engine, which explains the two runs of exhaust stubs on the sides of the fuselage, with a drive-shaft passing through the cockpit to the large prop as previously mentioned. The Fuselage and flying surfaces are identical to that of the He.280, with just the nose and cockpit showing any major differences. I'm erring toward it being a fabrication of someone's fevered imagination, but it looks just reasonable enough (with a few additions) that it could have been one of the aforementioned stories, or perhaps another more fanciful one. The Kit This is a resin kit with styrene clear parts, so strictly speaking we should call it multi-media because it is. I'm lucky enough to have the old Eduard kit of the He.280, so the resemblances there are more than passing. It arrives in a white top-opening hinged-lidded box, with the product details pasted on the lid, which includes a nice profile that is well printed. Inside the box are all the resin parts, with the large ones heat-sealed in a partitioned bag for their protection, while the small parts are found in a ziplok bag, as are the clear parts, which I would surmise have been made for them by Eduard as they are identical. This is backed up by the masks, which are in another bag with the decals, having the box-code for Eduard's recent reboxing of their He.280 kit cut into the yellow kabuki tape. Elementary my dear Watson! The instruction booklet completes the package, and this is a fairly short affair due to the simple construction. There is even a suggested colour scheme on the back page, although the world is your oyster, given the fact that it may well not even have existed! Not one to be put off by that fact, as I have a fondness for the Luft46 projects as the paper and research projects are sometimes called, I was very interested. Imagine the fun a what-iffer could have coming up with back stories and schemes from alternate timelines and so forth. Construction is straightforward, but that doesn't imply a lack of detail, as there is plenty visible. It begins with the cockpit, which has a rear bulkhead and insert that sits within the canopy, although that portion isn't shown in the profile. To that the seat lower, control column, rudders, side consoles, seat back and instrument panel are added, all with some reasonable detail that will look good under a coat of paint and perhaps with some Airscale instrument decals added into the dials. There is also an undocumented early ejection seat included in the box, although mine had become a little damaged, but it's nice to have the option if you so wish. With just the cockpit completed, the fuselage can be closed up around it, just remember to paint the underside of the floor RLM02, as it is also the roof of the nose gear bay. There are no details there other than a location point for the nose gear leg, so if that bothers you, add a little ribbing here and there to taste. The same goes for the wing-mounted main gear bays. The fuselage will need taping while you apply super glue around the mating surface, which I tend to do with a sharp blade while the fuselage parts are taped loosely together. That allows you to both join and fill the halves in sections, and generally results in less clean-up. The top of the fuselage was the location for the moulding stub, which has been removed by the manufacturers, and here you will need to remove some rough-spots and fill in a few little bubbles that have risen during casting. Grab some rod and a drill to ream them out to size, super-glue the rod in place, nip it off and sand it smooth to get rid of them quickly and easily. You'll also need to remove the flash over the cockpit opening, which just snaps off, leaving the edges needing a little smoothing. While you're there, check for flash over the exhaust apertures, as holes are always flashed over in casting so that the parts can still be removed from the rubber after. Interestingly, the diagrams show a nose gear bay assembly, but these aren't present in the kit, so must be a hangover from a previous version of the kit before release. With the fuselage done, you can install the four exhaust banks, two per side, which are perilously close to the aft of the cockpit. The wings have been cast as a single part, with the casting block removed from the trailing edge, and this too will need a little clean-up. There is a landing light part on the clear sprue, which fits into the slot on the port wing, and later on a pitot probe will be fitted further outboard on that wingtip. The fit of the parts seems good on a brief test-fit, so as long as you have got the fuselage fitted together neatly, the wings shouldn't give you any trouble. At the rear, the H-tail attaches to the top of the fuselage, and the rudders hang down perpendicular. That's the basic airframe done. The nose gear is a single strut with a yoke that holds a tyre between it, and a test fit may require you to deepen the depression at the centre to allow the yoke to grab the wheel better. A retraction jack braces the strut forward as per the profiles, and three small bay door parts surround the bay, making any lack of detail less evident. The main gear legs are substantial struts, with two jacks and a single wheel each. Again, the wheel will need the attachment point drilling out, as this has been left intentionally shallow to avoid bubble formation. The bays are finished off with a small bay door. The final parts mentioned on the instructions are the canopy, which can either be posed open in two parts, or closed with one. The great big fun propeller with hollow spinner (presumably an intake as-per the early Fw.190) isn't mentioned, but is present and where it goes is pretty obvious anyway! You'll need to clean up a little roughness at the trailing edge of each blade, and my review sample had a slight blemish on one blade, but that's nothing that can't be fixed with some filler, and then it just slots into the hole in the fuselage front. Markings The decals included in the box are sufficient to do the boxtop scheme, with the white 8, and enough crosses for the fuselage and wings, plus a couple of half swastikas for those that want them, or can use them. The scheme is an RLM 70/71 green splinter pattern with an RLM65 blue underside, but as the genre suggests, you can paint it any colour you like. You might be able to see the slightly raised underprinting on the crosses, which is simply the white borders that have been carried through from side to side. These shouldn't notice once you've glossed over them, but it's worth noting if you're not one for over coating decals. Conclusion It's hard not to like this kit, as it's a bit of a mystery that more difficult to solve due to the lack of easy evidence available on the net, but is very likely not to be real. Who cares? The shape of it was what drew me to it, and it reminds me a little of the Me.509 that's available from Hobby Boss, and I like weird things – ask my friends. The quality of moulding is good, with just a few blemishes here and there that will need a little fettling. If you've had experience of short-run kits or would like to try a resin kit for a change, there's no reason why you shouldn't give this a whirl, particularly if you like its unusual look like I do. A little reminder for those that may not already know: With resin, take the precaution of wearing a mask when cutting or sanding resin, as the tiny particles are harmful to your health if breathed in (as are all tiny particles). Washing the parts in warm water will also improve the adhesion of paint, as there may still be some moulding release agent on the parts when you receive them. Highly recommended. Ordering Instructions Review sample courtesy of
  25. Finally the model is completed. For the step-by-step building process please go here: As said before this kit is an effort of a group of friends to continue to make Dujin kits available to the modelers. It includes a very good set of photoetched parts and a nice decal sheet, all that highly commendable especially because Monsieur Dujin offered a vast line of very interesting types not found anywhere else, at a fair price. That been said, the resin parts leave much to be desired and are plagued with pinholes and blemishes, and sometimes are slightly deformed (easily corrected carefully and gradually under hot water) that make for a not at all easy build. Some kits are better than others in that regard, since this is a cottage product, and occasionally you will get a nice one, or a dog, as I got here. As said, photoetched parts and decals were splendid, but transparencies (you get a spare) were deficient and neither of my two samples matched well the fuselage contour (the canopy slid forward as one piece to allow access). This is definitely for the modeler that is after a certain type (and the line has plenty of beauties) and does not mind to work quite extensively and lengthily to obtain a good replica from those resin parts.
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