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  1. Hello All, so this is my first WIP post as a relative newcomer to the Forums. While I currently have a few different models on the go (I assume I'm not alone in biting off more than I can comfortably chew), I felt that this subject has minimal coverage on here (and anywhere else on the 'net for that matter) and would be more interesting than another Lightning or TSR-2 (although I do have an SR.177 and SR.53 in the early stages too, so might post them). So I bought the resin Fantastic Plastic (Anigrand) Vickers 559 since I love a "might have been", and decided to go down the route of FAW.2 spec, with it being introduced to service (I'm not going to make up some story about the rest of the F.155T competitors) and then the first round of upgrades and revisions being hastily introduced (par for the course with 50's British jets it seems). I have actually already made a reasonable amount of progress on it before I felt it might be nice to share the pain journey with others. First impressions when I unboxed it were that the quality of casting was really very good. Tolerances seem decent, and dry fitting wings, for instance, shows I can comfortably paint various parts separately and then assemble with no filler needed (mostly). However, some areas need attention to deliver realism: - Jet pipes show the turbine face just inside the pipe, really this needs to be about 40-50mm deep - Intake ended in a flat face just inside the shock cone ( too late for a photo of this) - Shock cone lower lip is not accurate to design (already tweaked) - nose gear bay was very basic, too wide, and gave a nose down stance (again, already remedied) - while the kit fit lines are good, the wings were a little slack in their locating tabs (fixed) - cockpit details non-existent really, simply a pair of 1/100? scale seats, control stick and that's it - canopy is one piece, and very thickly cast - a single pair of Red Hebes as weaponry - main gear bays are basic and lacking any convincing detail - main gear itself may or may not be sturdy enough, it seems to flex easily, so we'll see. - Main gear doors are obviously quite thick being resin, but also I'm not sure they'd have ended up one-piece So, to remedy the above, I plan/have started/done the following: - Eduard F-4J resin tailpipes (on order). The speys are ~90% the size of the Gyron, the tailpipe looks broadly similar, and the depth is also roughly correct. Certainly, its close enough for me. - I've already cut up the front of the model's innards and scratch-built some inlet ducting that is in keeping with the minimal diagrams available online and in "Cold War Interceptor". Note cockpit bulkhead too. - I've trimmed the lower lip to match the drawings (edges need sharpening still) - I cut out the front gear bay and have used a TSR-2 front wheel-well, cut down for a single wheel, and blended into the inlet described above (the front bluff face aligns with the shock cone, and isn't crooked like it looks in the pics... honest) - Added some 0.3mm shims to the wing tabs; wing alignment to fuselage using the Mk.1 eyeball now looks bang on, so no jig required. - I've got a pair of resin MB4 seats (assuming similar in-service dates to Lightning and Mirage etc). Also, on the basis that side-by-side seating is less common, certainly in British jets of this era, I'm going to have to use an Eduard etch set for a Sea Venom FAW.21. I've got some Eduard B-2 Spirit undercarriage etch to liven up the main wheel bays, and finally a Jaguar pitot since the kit doesn't have one at all. - Currently, I've managed to split the canopy so I can display it open, but I intend to make my own vacform to get the right thickness - After a discussion with some more knowledgeable gentlemen than I about missile placement and the effects on aero and such, I'm going to assume that Red Hebe still came to nothing and that Red Top was utilised but in a similar location to the Lightning (launch safety - think D-21 etc, maintenance ease). I'll add a second pair under the wings (since the 559 would have replaced the Javelin which had 4 missiles), and finally a single Aden mounted in the front of the ventral tank (since a few warning shots are sometimes desirable) for which I've used one of the upper nose gun recesses from an Airfix Lightning F6 kit. The compound curvature matches perfectly. - Main gear doors I think to split into upper and lower, like a TSR-2. Maybe with lower closed after gear is down. In terms of colours, I think to go with 56 Squadron, since I like that scheme and think it will look good. More the F.1A scheme than the F.3, but without the red wing leading edges. Also, for interest, here she is compared for size against a TSR-2 and Lightning T4...
  2. Hi all, Looking forward to this GB, I'll be starting with this excellent resin/multimedia kit from MDC and designed by Radu Brinzan. Let's have a look in the box! A surprisingly compact box for a 1/32 WW2 bomber. Some nice documentation and parts guide in the box. Unfortunately I am missing a couple of bits Nice inclusion here of the canopy glazing and frames. A lot of decals are provided for the framing! Decals for 6 options (4 bombers and 2 recce variants.). Loads of PE and some additional detailing wire, which is nice to see. And of course, there are a lot of bits! All washed and drying. The casting quality is among the best I've ever seen. Creamy smooth resin parts with minimal casting blocks. Very few pinholes for bubbles. This stuff is amazing. The fuselage halves are very well cast. Both were slightly warped, but a nice hot bath and some reshaping sorted them out. This upper canopy part was quite significantly out of whack but again it survived a hot bath and I was able to shape it back to something useable. The eagle-eyed among you will notice there is only one main gear wheel. There's no sign of it in the box, bag or round the bench, so unfortunately it would appear to be a manufacturer error. There is an AMS Resin set but the only one I could find was from Sprue Brothers in the US. Item cost: $17.99. Shipping cost: $60.71!??? Are you having a freakin' giraffe, Sprue Bro? So I was just about to cry and resign myself to an inflight model when I remembered I had some Halberd wheels for the Do 335 - I wonder if they might be around the same size? Well lucky old me, they're close enough! So that's my new plan. The other missing part is the tail unit for one of the 250 Kg bombs Luckily no shortage of aftermarket options for those. Hey ho. The resin casting detail in this kit is excellent. Engine intake and 'bullet' Recon cameras Main gear bay, even though it's practically invisible Surface detail is very fine as well. Well, that's your intro - hope to start mangling resin and making superglue splodges everywhere soon! Alan
  3. Here is my Avia B-158 From RS Models box. Pretty good resin kit it was.
  4. This is my Airco DH.9. Estonian Air Force operated 13 of these planes from 1919 to 1933. Wery nice resin kit from Ardpol
  5. Happy New Year 2024 to you all! A few days ago I have started this pretty little kit from SBS model and so far it's going quite well. I wanted to build something easy and fast, so the Sparrowhawk was a quick choice. I have never build a kit from SBS models, It's my first time, but I have quite a few models by them in my stash. I am making the 1935' King's Cup - G-ADNL aircraft in the cream finish. This is my progress for now, have a nice time!
  6. Good day Fellows, After finishing Copper Cliff corvette it's time for next maritime-modelling adventure. I want to convert Starling Model's HMS Nadder to one of the earlier frigates - HMS Jed. She took part in crucial spring 1943 conwoy battles. I prepared the sketch with some crucial points/areas: I will use some aftermarket goodies i.a. single Oerlikons by Black Cat and twins by Micromaster: It's very interesting building frigate after building her younger (and smaller) sister. Technology, military, kind of philozophy of using and fighting... I like to trace these aspects - differeces and similarities between them. Good resources are very important for such approach. To my earlier-mentioned books I added some further materials focused on Rivers. Top plan was attached to "Frigates of Royal Canadian Navy" book. Spey's plan I purchased from Naval Museum in Esquimalt: https://navalandmilitarymuseum.org/archives/projects/ships-plans/ It is posibble to obtain it by e-mail. This plan can be very usefull as Spey is one of the earliest frigaters like Jed, and like Jed she has all these minesweeping stuff. I think this digital reconstruction based on this plan: I must admit - this drawning is beautifull piece of art. Plenty of additional details, descriptions and so on. Author was (probably) F.N. Wilson and it was published by David MacGregor in 1974. Different time, different world... Maybe you know this author and publisher, me - not. I printed plan in big dimension and now it hangs on wall in my shipyard There is one more drawing. In Brian Lavery's book there is original shipyard plan of... HMS Nadder! Unfortunately, quality is very poor (small, gray an so on) but you can still check most important details and features. (BTW - have you Nadder in your modelling plans?) All remarks (and help) are warmly welcomed. OK, I know my direction, destination and ship. It's time to call "Throw the lines"! Let your hearts never fail For the bonnie ship the Diamond Goes a-hunting for the whale! Best regards, Michal.
  7. I came across news of a new tool, 1:48, I.A.e 33 Pulqui 2 from a new model maker in Argentina. The company is called High Valley Models (HVM), and this is their first (and hopefully not last) resin kit. HVM is based in Neuquén, Argentina. The kit comes in six bags and the parts are moulded in a light grey resin. There're six marking options from Calcas del Sur, five prototypes and what I think will be a what if operational machine had the Pulqui 2 taken off. Instructions are Hasegawa style (foldable) and are in colour. Estimated price is of 14000ARS (roughly 89GBP). I don't know if they ship outside Argentina. If I dare and don't get sidetracked by buying anothet German plane, this may be my first full resin kit. So far, the only Pulqui 2 in 1:48 was from Kosmosur 3D. The kit (I have 2) is very basic (no wheel well details, no cockpit detail, and has the issue of the 3D printed surface). https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hvm-1-ia-33-pulqui-ii--1428880
  8. I keep seeing posts suggesting that people are reluctant to build resin kits and/or keep wishing for kits to be available that actually are available - only in resin. As with injection moulded plastic kits, not all manufacturers are equal. Some plastic kits are absolute gems whilst others are abominations that are not worth the time and consumables to build. Likewise, not all resin kits are equal. Some negative common perceptions of resin kits include the following: - They're really expensive. They are more expensive than a plastic kit, but resin makes it financially viable to even consider some subjects like an S class destroyer. Perhaps more importantly, look at the contents. A basic plastic destroyer in 1/350 might cost around £30 (typical UK prices for 1/350 Tamiya destroyers like Yukikaze and Kagero are nearer to £60). If happy with what's in the box, I'm delighted for you. A sizable number though will then spend the same again on detailing to replace unrepresentative clunky plastic. With a kit like that featured in this thread, it's all included in the box. You don't need anything else to make a very nice model. - But nothing fits, right? Wrong. Not much else to say on that. As with plastic kits it depends who made the tooling and the casting technique. This thread will not omit any flaws in the kit's parts fit. You can see for yourself how it compares to most plastic kits. - Resin parts all need to be sawn off casting blocks. It's tedious, messy and I can't cut straight and it'll be ruined. Not an issue here. There are very small bits to remove, but in discrete places and can be done with a scalpel or modelling chisel. Less work that cleaning sprue gates from injection moulded plastic. - The dust from sanding is harmful to breathe in. Who in their right mind doesn't sand wet anyway? Dry sanding just clogs your abrasives regardless what you're working with and keeps all dust out of the air. It's just the correct way to sand. According to the time stamp on the photo, everything was as-new in its box at 18:18 this evening here's what's inside That's a set of instructions identifying and providing the correct name for all parts, diagramatic assembly instructions with notes, a full colour painting guide, pressure cast resin hull split at the waterline, bagged resin smaller parts and cast white metal small fittings. Here is the preparation needed to join the hull. There are some very small protrusions to clean off with a blade. The bigger one is a locating pin. That was 18:23. I hadn't done anything to change the condition of the kit contents from as-new yet. So, I trimmed those off and glued the hull together with medium CA. The fit is better than many injection moulded plastic hulls I've joined but not perfect. I will now point out the flaws and how much of a non-event it is to fix them. I wouldn't normally bother but to help the flaws and sanding stand out in photos for this thread, I gave it a quick blast with Halfords primer then had some food while it dried Off to the kitchen sink with an Infini Model sanding sponge I smoothed down the hull join. With a good abrasive like the Infini sponge and water, the whole lot took around 10 to 15 minutes. I got a bit careless and took some material off one of the strakes. Before remembering I was going to set this in water like Imperial, I fixed it with plasticard I then filled the waterline seam with putty. I keep getting educated by people who know better that I can't use normal modelling putties on resin because it doesn't stick, but none of the resin things I've ever worked with got that memo. The time stamp on that photo was 19:24 tonight. One hour and one minute including a dinner break to get to a joined, filled hull. And that's with me repairing self-inflicted damage (that will be hidden underwater anyway).
  9. Hi, I a series of small double setters - after three German, two Italian, two Czechoslovak time from one from France - the Caudron 600 Aiglon. This was important sport/touring machine (more here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caudron_C.600_Aiglon ), during WW2 impossed to some aemies and even before served military during Spanish Civil War (on both sides) . The model is done OOB (except the rotating prop) from the beautiful resin kit by Hungarian SBS company. However, the scheme of 30.6 given in box is a bit simplified (or just different) compared to the real thing. Here is link to photo of real thing: http://www.aviationcorner.net/public/photos/1/4/avc_00406414.jpg Please note not uniform background color near markings... And here the interpretation of artist to the box https://www.mojehobby.pl/zdjecia/9/4/1/35527_rd.jpg Here is mine attempt: Comments welcome Regards Jerzy-Wojtek #15/2022
  10. Hi all, I know it's been aaaaages since I posted here, but I haven't been idle; just busy enough that I've mostly only posted to Instagram for the last two years because it's just the lowest friction avenue. But as the year ends I've been taking proper photos of a lot of models. I'll probably make a single thread for most of them, but this one might interest folks on its own. It's the JPG Productions 1:144 scale Moldy Crow resin kit, mastered by Nicholas Sagan (aka Cosmos Models). It's currently out of production, but JPG has said he may bring it back in the future. I actually picked it up years ago, and made a start out of it 3 years ago, and then it sat unfinished for 3 years because I couldn't find a good base color. Well -- that all changed when I bought an airbrush and the entire line of Archive-X acrylics. Which, by the way, are *AMAZING*. The slightly paraphrase the immortal words of Ferris Bueller -- they are so choice. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking them up. The three year break turned out to be a good thing, because this is the first resin kit I've completed; it took a lot of work to build it, from lots of filing and filling to get parts to fit, to completely rebuilding the wing-attachment, using brass and my Proxxon micro-mill setup. I took a lot of inspiration from game artist Jason Lewis's digital Moldy Crow model he built for his personal project remaking the first level of Dark Forces. It is, without doubt, the most detailed digital model of the Crow ever made, and a fantastic extrapolation of the ship from its distinctly low-polygon origins. Check it out at https://www.artstation.com/artwork/A929GX Jason included a mechanism for adjusting the wings, which I adapted as an added detail on my build, made from steel music wire, brass tubing, and cast resin greeblies. I added a lot of additional detail to the built with cast resin greeblies which I molded from various Bandai kits, and I also completely scratch-built replacements for the sensor arrays on the front of the wings, which were extremely fragile as included with the kit. The replacements are also a lot sharper. I also replaced the kit-supplied barrels on the belly cannon with machined brass Hurricane Mk IIC - Hispano Mk I cannons from master-model.pl Finally, I replaced some of the piping with 1.5mm braided silver hose, a motorcycle kit up-detailing part. Painting Details I primed it with Mr Surfacer 1500 Black, then applied Vallejo Model Air White for pre-shading under the base color coat. The base color is a mix of AX-020 Rust and AX-041 Roof Brown, with accented panels misted over with AX-016 Earth or pure Roof Brown. The red accents are a 1:1 mix of AX-025 Caboose Red and AX-026 D&H Caboose Red. The contrasting rear side panels are AX-008 SP Dark Lark Grey, and the sensor antennas and belly cannon barrels are AX-013 Grimy Black. The sensor fins in front of the engine pods are AX-007 SP Lettering Grey (which is one of my favorite colors in the whole Archive-X lineup). I used the Vallejo Metal Colors line for the grills and actuator rods, as well as dry-brushed metallic highlights on top of the Grimy Black. Mostly bits of Gun Metal, Magnesium, and Duraluminum. Without further ado, the Moldy Crow.
  11. I built the model of the Tupolev Tu-114 a couple of years ago. The history behind this turboprop airliner is truly unique. The plane was designed in the late 1950’s on the basis of the Soviet strategic bomber Tu-95 "Bear" . The specifications of the plane were massive: hight 15,5 m. length 53 m. and wing span 51 m. The four 14.800 hp turboprops drove eight counter rotating propellers and the diameter of these ”widmills” was 5,6 m. The max. speed was 870 km/h. The noise level inside the cabin could reach up to 110 db. The plane was operated by Aeroflot (and in co-operation with Japan airlines in the Moscow-Tokyo route). There was a restaurant and multiple sleeping compartments and downstairs a fully operational kitchen. I built the model out of a high quality 1/144 scaleresin kit of the Russian manufacturer RusAir. I added a DC-3 model of the same scale to one of the pictures to give a clue of the dimensions of the giant.
  12. Last year I got an email from a collector. He told me that he had a partially build resin kit of the Ferrari 250 Bertone GT. The Ferrari 250 Bertone GT is a "one-off" car that was recently restored : The collector bought this kit second hand. He had no idea who the maker was, but he send me some photos of the partially build kit : He said : "All it needs is to be painted and completed". I accepted what looked like an easy project, but when I put the kit on my workbench it became clear that this would be quite a challenge. I removed the primer and then the resin horror show began : Lots of detail that is missing and panellines that look like trenches : The kit has no brake discs and the wheels were superglued to the resin. Removing the wheels wasn't easy - I actually broke the PE on one of them - they will be replaced by AM wheels : I removed the seats only to discover that the chassis was bend : A dryfit of the windshield showed that this would be a major project : But enough on the negative side of this kit. Allow me to share this work-in-progress as I battle this kit into submission. Will post the updates later this day. Sincerely Pascal
  13. hi all, Here's my latest model finished just in time for Telford. It is the AW Models resin kit of the Japanese UF-XS. For those of you who don't know, it was a one-off test aircraft created from a Grumman Albatross and was used to trial the hull shape and hot air blowing system over the flaps for the proposed Shin Meiwa flying boats. The real plane can be seen in the Kakamigahara museum near to Gifu air base in Japan. Apart from masking the white lines, this kit was a dream to put together. Hope you like it Andy
  14. Another one finished - the 1/350 scale resin kit of an Oberon Class diesel submarine from ebay seller subsmodels..... I chose to finish it as HMS Opossum - wearing a roughly-applied camouflage scheme used when she was on special ops during the Gulf War. She also sported a sharkmouth - sourced as a decal from my spares box. It isn't 100% accurate but it looks OK... I think I may have overdone the 'weathing' a bit on the camo........ The camouflage makes a nice change from the all-black finish normally found on RN subs..... Ken
  15. Hi everyone, I just started this Nuffield tank in 72 scale and want to share my first post in Britmodeller. There are many first things here for me: my first full resin kit, my first paper tank and my first OKB Grigorov kit. The Nuffield tank is so ugly that I like it very much. The kit is easy to assemble and I was amazed to find that the resin is not crispy, yet very good quality, and I haven't broken anything from the small parts (for now). If you have any information about the Nuffield tanks or just want to share some advice with the newbie in Britmodeller, please comment. Here are some pictures: Some dry fitting of the suspension
  16. Look what the postman just delivered - all the way from the snowy wastes of Severodvinsk in Russia..... It's a 1/350 scale resin kit of HMS Oberon....... Cast in solid, chocolate coloured resin, it looks to be free of pinholes, with just a small casting seam along the hull... There are few parts - the above hull, plus a conning tower, fore and aft dive planes, two propellers, two masts and two styles of sonar dome... There are no instructions nor markings - but that isn't a problem - I think I can work it out. I got it from this eBay seller :- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Submarine-resin-kit-of-SS-Oberon-class-the-UK-1-350-scale/264271889518?hash=item3d87d5046e:g:jlYAAOSwy8JctiIL ...and service was excellent - ordered on 21 June, posted on 28 Jun, delivered on 8 July. I might try to make it as HMS Opossum - with an interesting camo scheme and 'sharkmouth'. ....and it might inspire me to finish my HMS Tabard build...... Ken
  17. Hello, fellow modellers, my Name is Norbert, I am from Germany. One of my favourite modelling subjects are airliners. Here is my latest build, not really an airliner, but close! This Aircraft is used by the Russian Ministry for Emergency Situations. I bought the kit couple of years ago from a fellow modeller. it included the kit decals made by pas decals and an extra set by Eastern Express. I selected this scheme as the others were either boring or not correct when compared to photos. RusAir produces resin kits of Russian Aircraft. The fuselages are not solid but made out of two halves. That makes the kits not as heavy as other resin kits. As the decals were not designed for this kit, they did not fit completely, sp some brush work had to be done and some compromises hade to be made. I used Tamiya White X-2 for the fuselage upper side and Revell for the underside and the wings. The leading edges and engine parts have been airbrushed with MIG metal Colours. The Yak-42 used by MchS has more antennaes than the airliners. These had to be added by Scratch, off Course. Hope You like the Little three-engine Jet! Cheers, Norbert
  18. Not posted for a while due to family issues which are in other threads. This model is on I finished early this year and is one of the 'might have beens' of British military aviation in the late 50's. The P.177 was developed in response to a desire to have a fast climbing fighter that was capable of intercepting transonic Soviet bombers then thought to be under development. It was thought that as bombers flew faster and higher a conventional jet fighter lacked the climb performance to intercept a nuclear armed bomber before it released its weapons and so an aircraft that had to have a climb rate well in excess of any jet. Post war, a lot of studies had been carried out on rocket propelled fighter, probably influenced by the Me163, a number of which had been studied in the UK along with their engines. The problem with pure rocket fighters was although they had rapid climb and high top speeds, they lacked endurance. Saunders Roe carried out studies into these aircraft (perhaps as work dried up when it was realised the Princess flying boat was a dead end) and came up with the idea of using a rocket motor as the means to achieve high speed and climb rates and use a jet as a means of extending range and facilitating a safe return to base as in the SR53. In the P177 , this idea was taken further by the use of a powerful jet engine to sustain performance and allow a carriage of more weapons, radar and fuel. In 1955 prototypes and preproduction aircraft were ordered for the RAF and Royal Navy and interest was shown abroad, particularly from West Germany. Metal was cut and production was underway when Duncan Sandys unleashed his 1957 Defence White Paper that scrapped most manned combat aircraft in favour of guided missiles. The P177 lingered for a while as a purely Naval project and the hope that the Germans might buy it, but was cancelled in early 1958 and the prototypes scrapped. The Germans bought the F104 Starfighter instead. The kit is the original issue from Freightdog with castings by Anigrand. It was reissued last year with new masters and looks a lot cleaner. The kit is all in resin apart from in my issue a vacformed canopy (some kits have resin canopies). A decal sheet with some nice 'what if' schemes are provided. As can be seen below, the resin is tan, cleanly moulded and has a few air bubbles. My main references were 'Project Cancelled' and 'British Experimental Jet Aircraft' The latter has 1/72nd plans that I am pretty sure were used to design the kit Building the model produced a few issues. The interior was pretty much devoid of detail, apart from an ejector seat and stick. Some consoles were on the fuselage sides, but it was left to the modeller to work out where stuff went. Fortunately the canopy is heavily framed so not that much is visible. the fuselage halves were a little bowed, but clamping and two part epoxy resin cured this and the clean up was fairly straightforward. Incidentally, the exterior detail was quite well done with recessed panel lines and intakes. The faring for the rocket motor was a separate piece and required faring in. Both the movable intake (modelled here in ground position) and the jet exhaust needed some work to get them to fit properly. The diameter of the hole in the fuselage for the exhaust was too small and the intake needed cutting back to match the drawings. The wings and fin had locations pins in resin that were replaced by brass rod and horizontal tail slotted on to the fin with little trouble. The canopy more or less fitted after some careful trimming, but bizarrely the frame lines were moulded inside the canopy, which made painting fun (not) . The undercarriage was in the same resin as everything else and so was drilled through and brass rod added as I do not trust ordinary resin to take the weight. The Red Top missiles were replaced by aftermarket Freightdog ones as the originals had some serious airholes that made them well nigh impossible to clean up. After clean up and priming Xtracyrlix Dark Green and Dark Sea Grey were applied to the upper surfaces and Vallejo white Aluminium was applied to the undersurfaces. Kit decals were applied with no problems before a coat of semigloss Vallejo clear varnish was applied. The markings are of 56 Squadron and various probes and aerials were added from plastic strip and thin brass rod . Hope you like
  19. Good evening all......Just wanted to do a brief update about this kit. We've been working hard during the last two weeks, and to be fair, I hope to get this kit ready before month's end, as expected. These pics show the first master parts for the fuselage and tail section, and the first test parts for the wings....Please, note that the fuselage parts haven't been paneled and riveted yet, just the basic shapes there, to check fiting and allignment.......Hope you'll like our work so far.... IMG-20180625-WA0041[1] by Arturo Navarro, en Flickr IMG-20180625-WA0042[1] by Arturo Navarro, en Flickr IMG-20180625-WA0039[1] by Arturo Navarro, en Flickr Best regards from Tenerife.....
  20. So got my Mojo back after finishing building my new modelling space in the garage and cracked open a new kit, well actually half of a kit as I've already built the mouse droid. I give you the JPG Productions Gonk droid for those who have not seen the kit before (is there anyone?) this is what you get so I spent some time dry fitting, filling and priming, then forgot to take a picture before I laid down a coat of vallejo metal colour white aluminium i have also painted the corrugated leg sections with Vallejo model air Panzer Grey and the really observant amongst you will spot the leg 'pipes' still in their UMP Black primer. I finished the silver and let everything cure overnight and today assembled the main body with Gorilla Gel superglue and I discovered something new - wiping off excess gorilla gel also removes the Vallejo silver and the primer! this has now Ben touched up and I've also readied the copper colour on the leg 'pipes' using Tamiya dark copper and highlighted with citadel bright copper I have some really good verdigris stuff to put on tomorrow when I get the chance i have also touched up the legs by hand as I had sprayed the silver at far too low a pressure and got loads of spatter all over the panzer grey As you can see this is now fixed. Ignore the fact that the silver fades out this is only the layer I'm chipping to. Next step is a couple of coats of hairspray and then onto the colour scheme I have been trying out on this particular spoon that is vallejo grey blue and the yellow is going around the centre section. Hopefully I'll not mess this all up with the hairspray chipping as my first (and only attempt so far) at this was a disaster but I know what I did wrong - I hope! I'm spraying the yellow down first and then the blue. More tomorrow if if all goes well leigh
  21. I've just taken delivery of this resin kit by Blue Ridge Models - via Freetime Hobbies. I must say I'm happy with the service from Freetime - and very impressed by the quality of the kit, it's packaging and presentation. I'm less impressed with Royal Mail / UK Customs - for slapping on a whopping VAT charge on top of the already expensive kit plus postage. Anyway - on with the photos...... The artwork on the front of the strong carboard box. Rear artwork.... Impressive packaging - everything protected in foam - and well printed coloured instructions. The parts appear to be bubble free, are superbly cast - and the kit includes etched brass and decals. My bank balance has taken a bit of a hit (kit + Postage + VAT) - but there is a silver lining - the foam parts will come in handy - and I get a free copy of the newspaper used in the packing...... I'll get started as soon as I come back from my Danube River Cruise.... Ken
  22. I recieved a surprise Christmas present from a modelling friend; an all resin 1/72 Spitfire PR.XI kit by Attack Squadron. It is a kit that I knew nothing about, nor have read anything about it in magazines or on the net. But oh what a pleasant surprise! Excellent casting, highly detaled cockpit, perfectly clear vacformed canopy (unfortunately only one) very good PE for the smallest deails, and six decal options; four American, one RAF and one Danish AF. Parts breakdown is a bit unconventional, but after having done some dry-fitting the fit seems to be near perfect.The only con I've found so far is the instructions which, although nicely drawn, seem a bit disorganised and have no colour callouts whatsoever for the interior.The latter is no problem for me since I have plenty of references to go by. Very much looking forward to build this kit.
  23. Hi fellow GB'ers. As this great GB is now up and running I thought I had better get on and start my entry. This will be my first ever complete resin kit. I have dabbled a little with resin conversion parts, but not much experience really. The two most worrying aspects are, a. having to stick it together with super glue (a recipe for disaster and fingers stuck together) and b, having to wear a mask during the cleaning up process, so that I don't inhale any dust and subsequently die. Other than that, it should be plain sailing. Oh, and I do not like the look of the vacform canopy. I think getting it cut out and fitting neatly might prove to be the biggest challenge. It is quite a prominent part of the aircraft. As you can see, it isn't even out the bag yet. It does look like nice kit though, crisply cast and a good decal sheet. First task I guess is to wash all the parts? Then start cutting off the moulding/casting blocks etc and cleaning it all up. There may be a slight delay before I post any substantial updates, as I must finish my An-32 left over from the Lesser Air Forces GB. It is taking up most of my bench space. Cheers guy's.
  24. There are a few reasons for picking this particular kit: I never usually built cars. I've never built a resin kit. I don't think anyone else, so far anyway, is doing one. And finally, it was in my stash. Most of us will have come across a tin snail, but not many will have seen the 4x4 version. (These are not to be confused with the more recent Louis Barbour conversions). The Sahara was made by Citroën in the late 50's and early 60's. It had two engines, one in the front, the other was installed in what had been the boot. I don't know very much more about them other than what can be easily gleaned from the interweb. I believe there are only about 27 of them left. If anyone knows anything about them, or if one can be seen in the UK, please send me a message. This is the Vroom kit which I got secondhand some years ago. The only included paperwork I have is a photocopy of a French publication which has information about the Sahara and some handwritten notes concerning which colours should be used. There are no assembly instructions as such, mind you, it doesn't consist of that many parts. There are some photoetched windscreen wipers, vacformed glazing, chromed mirrors, steel axles and vinyl (?) tyres. So it is something of a multimedia kit. I don't suppose I'll be assembling it as is. There are a few alterations I'd like to make. But I'll research matters a little further before I commit to anything. Also, I'd like it to be weathered, set on a small base and not merely be displayed sitting on four tyres. We'll see..................
  25. Just finished another one for my growing collection of 1/350 scale submarines. This is the resin kit from Japanese firm Seawolf of the Soviet guided missile submarine of the Juliett Class.... I have modified the kit to have one twin missile launcher raised and the other one down..... I also added doors to the rear of the launchers and drilled one tube out to show the SS-N-3 'Shaddock' missile about to be launched... I added railings to the recesses in the hull sides and had to source decals from other kits - none are supplied... Note the nose of the Shaddock inside the rear starboard tube - made from round sprue.... Here's a closer view of the ready-to-fire missile.... Ken PS The build photos are here. PPS Doh !! :doh: I've just realised, the Juliett's are diesel-electric - so the label should read SSG, not SSGN
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