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  1. Hi all, starting a build log for my 1/1000 Enterprise model as depicted in Star Trek: Discovery. I know people have strong feelings (positive and negative) about the show, but I think most people agree this re-imagining of the original series Constitution class was firmly on the plus side. This kit was released from Polar Lights earlier this year and I think I grabbed the first one available at my local model store, along with the lighting kit. First thing first - the combo was pricey, and doesn't even include Aztec decals (which were released a couple months later for another $25). As I have no experience with lighting models or creating lighting circuits, it made sense to me to start with the lighting kit. Obviously you could put together a similar lighting setup for much cheaper if you know what you are doing. The difficult part would be sourcing motors that fit into the nacelle cavities for the spinning part of the bussard collects. For someone who just wants a lit Enterprise and doesn't want to deal with doing the math and designing circuits, soldering wires, or sourcing all the different materials, I think the lighting kit is reasonably priced. Either way I finally had time to start this thing last week, and I'm very excited with what I've already seen. It is a much different beast than the 1/1000 Enterprise Refit I built (as well as being much larger due to producers of the show changing the in-universe size of the ship). Some first pics: Not pictured is the round black base and brass rod to connect the base to the ship. Wonderful details, clear parts for all the windows, and as the kit is designed for lighting, wiring channels are built in. Another cool feature is that the pylons holding the warp engines are tabbed in such a way that there is low chance for misalignment of the pylons or engines, a common issue with other Star Trek kits from what I understand. The lighting kit has LEDS for the windows, bridge/sensor domes, warp and impulse engines. Through the use of clear parts, the "landing pad" of the shuttle bay back can also be lit up. Also included are small motors to spin the bussard collectors in the nacelles, and clear blue/red parts for the warp engines that replace the clear parts from the main box. Lastly is a circuit board for all the electronics to clip into, and that runs down the rod to a battery box that takes 3AAs. Sorry I didn't take photos inside this box, but you'll see them all during the build. Also pictured is the Aztec decal sheets as well as the photoetch set from Paragrafix. There are 3D printed bridges and other aftermarket resin parts available if you really want to pimp it out. I'm passing on the bridge because in theory the top dome is not a window that looks into the bridge, and not a detail I cared enough for. We begin! The instructions start with the nacelles and I started playing with the electronics in there, but a very important part when putting lights in models - light blocking! The idea being you don't want a hot spot of the light showing through the hull of your ship (unless you want to, which is an effect called Raytheon lighting which mimics the lighting of an area that can't physically be lit by a light source on the exterior of the model) Sprayed the insides with black, then white. I'm using a flat white instead of a glossy white or silver because I read it diffuses the light better inside, lessening the chance of hot spots. You can see the standoffs inside the saucer where the LEDs from the lighting kit are designed to be attached. And the inside of the warp nacelles - didn't need to spray white in the front end because that's where the motor housing will go: Think that's enough for a first post! Next I'll go into the work I've done on the engines, and my thought process on deciding to supplement the lighting kit with more LEDs. Thanks for reading! I'm still a relatively new modeler and would appreciate any feedback, comments, critiques, or questions as this project goes along.
  2. Happy Halloween everyone, here is a diorama I built a few years back, I thought it needed dust down and give it a seasonal airing for you guys to see.
  3. 'He's intelligent, but inexperienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking.' 'Full stop. Z minus 10,000 metres....' Best Star Trek movie IMHO, and a really good film full stop. Mainly an aircraft modeller, I have long wanted a model of the refit Enterprise after my abortive attempt with an AMT model 30 years ago, and the Polar Lights 1/1000 kit was great fun. Finished OOB, I tried a few paints before I got to the look in my minds eye...specifically Xtracrylix light grey FS 36495. I couldn't resist the battle damage decals...I think I've got them right for the ship at this point in the film! Highly recommended. Pics taken against an off monitor for an attempt at 'space!
  4. Greetings, My first ever Star Trek model. I vividly remember watching the television debut as a lad ( I was 7 years old in 1966), but in the subsequent decades never built a Star Trek model! Well. never too late to do one now. The new Galileo shuttle craft from Polar Lights is very well engineered and comes together so very nicely. One of the best styrene kits I have ever encountered. Attention to detail and parts fit is superb. I wanted to build this kit with plenty of lights and a display base that included buttons, graphics and lighting using something that I have had laying around for years. Please note that I am not a Star Trek expert in any way and there are probably many glaring aspects of this build that are probably "just not right", but I decided to do this my way and just enjoy the kit. So, this is where I am currently in the build - about 80% completed . . . . . This is where it all started - with a steel front panel from some old piece of computer hardware that caught my eye as a potential display base many years ago . . . . This then began my first model adventure into the world of Star Trek. Following are some images of how I went about this challenge... Cutting a wire channel into the nacelle supports for the lighting... Modifications to the nacelles for lighting . . . A closer view . . . Nacelle domes misted white on the inside and dry fitted . . . Nacelle lighting test - they actually look a bit more greenish. Never lighted in the original TV series, I just could not put an LED in these . . . Rear impulse engine light blocking box and secret L.E.G.O. interior light stand fixture . . . . Light test of the impulse engine - bright white LEDS with blue lenses . . . Another view . . . Modified kit forward head lights . . . Light test . . . Styrene added around hatch to block light leaks . . . Secret L.E.G.O. interior light stand in place . . . Impulse engine light box in place. . . That's all for now, much more coming soon. Your questions and comments are always welcome. Many thanks for having a look. Cheers, Bill
  5. Klingon D-7 Battlecruiser | 1/1000 | Polar Lights Finished 3/13/2020. I'm back after a few months absence. I didn't model for a couple months because I just couldn't get into it. This D-7 was 95% done for those couple of months and there's nothing quite like an unfinished project to guilt me back to the bench. Since this kit is a snap together, seams were a major issue. So there was a lot of superglue and sandpaper in the building of this model. Another major problem was color: First, good reference photos of original series Klingon ships are practically impossible to find. Second, the instructions called for Testor's Napoleonic Violet, which I couldn't find a lacquer equivalent of. I went to the LHS and found Testors apparently doesn't make Napoleonic Violet in enamel anymore, but they had it in Acrylic (which I refuse to use). The LHS had several shades of purple in the little Testors bottles and I matched one to the Acrylic Napoleonic Violet -- Lilac. It wasn't perfect, but close. Other parts of the ship were Light Ghost Gray (Mr. Color 308) and a 50/50 mix of Light Ghost Gray and White (also Mr. Color). The Lilac turned out to be comically bright, so I dusted light ghost gray over it until it looked right to me. I quite like it, actually. The other problem I had was that there were chrome plated parts in the kit, which I think look ridiculous, so I used bleach to strip them (and boy, it didn't take long! Just a few seconds!) and then used Alclad Duraluminum on them (with a base coat of gloss black). The parts on the warp engines got a dusting of Alclad steel as well. With a little care to overcome the kit's deficiencies, it builds into a beautiful model. and it was fun, which is good because I have another in the stash waiting to be built into a Romulan D7. One last thing - I picked my own registry number for this ship. Everyone does the one that looks like a styliszed "TCS" and I wanted to be different. (It's "A49" if you want to know) No WIP for this build. Finishing: Seam filling with Super Glue and Squadron white putty Paints: Mr. Surfacer 1500 black | Mr. Color 308 (FS36375) > 50/50 Mr. Color 308 and 1 > Testors Lilac enamel with a dusting of Mr. Color 308 > Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear coat > Testors spray Semi-Gloss (Decanted) for final coat Weathering/Wear: A little bit of streaking with Tamiya Weathering pastels. While it seems laughable to have weathering in space, it looked too toy-like otherwise. Although I suppose you could argue that going through cosmic dust clouds at high velocities could deposit something on the surface! Had to mask the impulse engines in the back. I think they turned out OK! Thanks for looking; hope you enjoy! Questions and comments always welcomed!
  6. Quite frankly, I'm disappointed at the lack of Star Trek representation in a sci-fi group build. We have a nearly a dozen X-Wings, a couple Battlestar Galactica, and even something from Space Above and Beyond for heaven's sake! This must be rectified. I started my first 1/48 jet after finishing the YF-21 for this group build, but I think I'll put that on quick hold while I put in another GB entry purely to represent some Trek. My choice will be the Polar Lights 1/1000 Klingon Bird of Prey released last year as part of a two pack with the USS Grissom as seen in Star Trek III: The Search for Spock. I've had this in my stash since it was released and this seems like a great reason to crack it open. It's advertised as a snap-fit kit, so it should go together pretty quickly. Due to the size I foresee handpainting a lot of the accents instead of masking and airbrush, so we'll see how that works out. The box is actually really cool, with the decal callouts and color painting guide on the inside sides of the box, allowing them to be printed in color. Two green and one small clear runners contain the entire ship. You can build it with wings up or down in "attack" position. The details look great, but as you can see there's a bit of flash on the sprue, if not much on the actual parts. Included is an extensive decal sheet of which 90% of are for the Grissom. Small black two-piece stands are included. Thanks for reading! (Also in case it doesn't come across via text, my first paragraph is dripping with sarcasm. I'm enjoying looking at all the group builds and have a TIE Fighter finished on my shelf and an A-Wing in the stash.)
  7. My entry is the United Planets C57D Space Cruiser from the 1956 movie Forbidden Planet. The kit is from Polar Lights, and is the deluxe version that comes with an electronic lighting system for displaying the saucer's "in flight" faster-than-light drive engine.
  8. Have gotten back into sci fi for a 'quick' build, I pulled out the Defiant model from PL. I started with the clear parts, backing them with silver and then spraying Tamiya clear red and blue, then masked them. There is a mask set available, but being the same price as the kit I decided not to buy them. The eight clear parts on the spine were also done and then covered with masking fluid. Then onto the nose and the neck attachment. The way the kit is made, the gap between the head and the main body was a little too wide, so I grounded out the locating point so that it would seat a little tighter. Before... After... Then onto closing the hull up and cleaning up the edges and adding the nacelles. After that it was onto paint. I used Model Master Light Gray for the base color, over a panel shading of Tamiya Nato Black. I've decided to forgo most of the paneling decals. I'll be using just the registry, pennants and windows only and sticking to paints for the rest. So, out came the Tamiya tape... As in the pic above, I used the white Tamiya tape for curves to help with some of the curves. But one side lifted shortly after being applied and was replaced with regular Tam tape. The other side stuck - until the next day when it too slipped, but I was into painting before I realized it. A couple of paint and mask sessions followed... ...until I am finally to here... I'm not done yet by any means as there are two other colors to lay down, and some clean up to be done here and there, but so far I am glad I decided not to use the decals. Will update shortly. Model on!
  9. Happy New year all,Hope you had a good Christmas,my astonishingly wonderful wife got me this beauty. The presentation and casting are top notch. quality bit of kit Goes together straight out of the box The Semi-Transparent alien egg is a nice touch The only real drawback is that John Hurts estate didnt OK his likeness,but with a bit of lighting I think it will look OK.
  10. 40 years since I crouched down in my Cinema seat thinking "Dont touch the bloody thing you Idiot" I can add Kane to my Alien collection,the head is a replacement with a better likeness ,scale is listed as 1/9th. Good wholesome modelling fun,though got a bit sweary when hollowing out for the lighting
  11. "She's ALIVE!!!!". Won this kit off eBay this week, a few parts missing but nothing I can't scratchbuild. I'm going to try and make a screen capture diorama and I will be adding lots of extra props and lighting.
  12. Hi Everyone! Here is my take on the 1/8 Polar Lights WOLVERINE kit. This was a great kit to have some fun with and I added a few mods to the stock model to make it look more dynamic-as if our favourite XMAN had just stepped off the pages of a comic book. So without any further ado, here's Logan to show how slicing 'n dicing a Sentinel robot should be done! "YOU LOOKIN' AT ME BUB?"
  13. Hi guys, this is the final reveal pictures of the Bride of Frankenstein screen capture diorama. I scratch built a large part of this project and had a lot of fun adding all the effects and extra props to make up the laboratory, also just in time for Halloween LOL! Enjoy the pics. Finally, you can see my work in progress in the link below.
  14. This is a Halloween fun build, I based the diorama on Tim Burton's Sleepy Hollow movie. The kit tree was looking far too small so I added a bit more height to it and added some flickering amber LED's to the pumpkins, definitely a bit of fun to build.
  15. Hello All, I HAVE UPLOADED NEW PICTURES SEVERAL YEARS ON FROM IT BEING BUILT - SORRY FOR THE FLUFF I would like to introduce my build of the Polar Lights reissue of the Aurora 'Batmobile'. It is a nice little kit, as with all oldies it responded well to a little 'TLC' no real challenges other than getting the body good enough for the gloss black which was from a Halfords rattle can over Tamiya fine surface primer, I made my first decal for this kit for the 'Bat Licence Plate' as it was probably called. All the chrome was removed and repainted in Plasticote Chrome over gloss black, but I have recently bought some Alclad, so will be giving that a go on future builds. I apologize for the many photos, but everybody loves this car... it's the law!!! Thanks for looking, Comments and critters welcome, tune in next time... same bat time same... well, you know the rest Cheers, Andy.
  16. For your enjoyment and nostalgia, an OOB build of Polar Lights re-issue of the aurora 8 window model of the Seaview submarine which spawned a movie and 4 seasons of television, which i remember as a kid. I now have the DVD boxset to digest and probably have a giggle over now. Anyway the kit considering its age went together well with very few fit issues, a small amount of filler, the only problem was the front windows lining up, probably with a little more care they would have lined up, bit this was a spur of the moment build for some fun, taking a break from my more serious builds. Therapy it was and it worked. It was painted in humbrol enamels, no masking (practising my steady hand LOL) and then humbrol satin coated, the windows to the doors on the sail were kristal cleared. Finally i found a very realistic octopus on fleabay to finish it off. Enjoy Chris
  17. Space Cruiser C-57D Polar Lights 1:144 The 1956 MGM science fiction film ‘Forbidden Planet’ is, quite rightly in my opinion, considered one of the early classics of the genre. Directed by Fred M Wilcox and starring a very youthful Leslie Nielson, the exquisite Anne Francis, a singularly sinister Walter Pidgeon and of course the iconic Robby The Robot (as himself), the film wasn't terribly successful at the box-office, but over time it developed a cult following and it certainly had a massive influence on science fiction in the decades that followed. I’m sure that the plot of this film, essentially a science fiction adaptation of ‘The Tempest’, is probably more than familiar to most readers, but to briefly summarize, hopefully without completely blowing it for those of you who haven’t seen the film; Commander John J. Adams (Nielson) of United Planets Cruiser C-57D is ordered to proceed to the planet Altair IV, there to discover the fate of the starship Bellerophon and her crew, dispatched to the world on an exploratory mission some twenty years before. Upon arrival at Altair IV the crew are contacted by Dr Morbius (Pidgeon), a scientist from the earlier expedition, who attempts to discourage them from landing. However land they do, whereupon the crew are greeted by one of Dr Morbius’ miraculous creations, Robby The Robot, who transports them to his master's rather luxurious home. Morbius explains the fate of the Bellerophon, describing a mysterious force that destroyed the ship and took the lives of the expedition members, inexplicably sparing only Morbius and his immediate family. He goes on to explain his fear that this force might begin to effect Adams and his crew, and again strongly encourages them to depart. Suspicions of Morbius are somewhat allayed when the crew encounter his naive, innocent and incredibly alluring daughter, Altaira (Francis), who becomes quite fascinated with Adams and and his all male crew, a fascination that is more than reciprocated. Robby too soon endears himself to the crew, but Dr Morbius himself remains enigmatic and very soon his dire warnings prove all too prophetic, with an invisible entity sabotaging equipment aboard the C-57D. Convinced that Morbius knows a great deal more than he is letting on, Commander Adams determines to confront him..... The production values and the scale and quality of the special effects utilised in the making of this movie really were quite unprecedented for their day, earning ‘Forbidden Planet’ an Academy Award nomination and numerous emulations and tributes over the years. The soundtrack featured the first ever all electronic sound effects and score in a motion picture, the special effects animations were provided by Disney artist Joshua Meador of ‘Fantasia’ fame, the list of firsts and superlatives just goes on. It is probably fair to say that ‘Forbidden Planet’ was in fact the first true science fiction feature-film, prior to this ground-breaking movie science fiction had, by and large, remained the remit of the 'B-Movie' brigade. The polished metallic discus design of the C-57D was clearly inspired by the flying saucer phenomenon, which had begun with Kenneth Arnold’s sighting almost a decade before and which was beginning to explode into a worldwide sensation at around the time the film was made. Three models of the C-57D were used in the film, one of 56cm , the second 110cm and the third 220cm in diameter, the largest of these models was internally lit and featured a deployable landing pedestal and boarding ramps. In addition to these small scale models a full size mock up depicting three quarters of the exterior of the 50m diameter saucer and a complete interior set were also built. So sophisticated and expensive were the props, models and sets made for this film, that they were reused in other science fiction features, including the TV series ‘The Twilight Zone’, the C-57D models appearing in eight episodes made between 1960 and 1964. The Kit So how have Polar Lights gone about representing this classic of fifties science fiction? This is not their first kit of the subject, having previously released a very detailed 1:72 kit of the C-57D, with a full interior and a fair complement of figures. Within the rather nice 13” square box of this 1:144 kit we find exactly none of that, I think it’s fair to say that this 1:144 kit is pretty much the antithesis of its 1:72 predecessor, it is incredibly simple. Two large disc shaped parts in pale grey plastic provide the main hull, a very large sprue with 20 parts in the same materiel and a second smaller sprue with 17 transparent parts covers everything else. So large is this single sprue that I've photograped it in halves showing the upper and lower surfaces of the parts on each half, thus there are four photographs for this single sprue. Detail on these parts is, to be frank, minimal, but that is actually not a bad thing as the designers of the fifties were very big on the whole ‘smooth and shiny’ thing and that is faithfully reproduced here. Instructions are presented as a single sheet, folded into four, one side of which is more than ample to detail the four step assembly process. In the first step we assemble and paint the three ramps that descend from the hull when the C-57D is at rest. One of these is plain, the second a two part cargo conveyor and the third comprises the stairway and a pair of handrails that, despite being the only truly small parts in the kit, would scale out at 4-6” in diameter and which I suspect most modellers will replace as a matter of course. In step two these ramps and the rather grandiosely named ‘hallways’ that surround them are mounted in the lower hull. The ramps are designed to be a working feature, but I suspect most modellers will fix them in place as such things tend not to survive for long if fiddled with repeatedly. Step three has us join the two hull halves together and add a pin which will support the lower dome and engine cage. The fourth and final step contains the only hint of complexity in the process, as the builder is presented with a couple of finishing options. The lower dome of the saucer is provided as a cloudy transparent part, if the model is to be built at rest it is to be painted silver to match the hull and capped with the extended landing pedestal part. However if the modeller wishes to represent the C-57D in flight it is to be left unpainted revealing the engine cage within. The instructions suggest painting the cage black and staining the sixteen clear inserts red in order to represent an operating drive system, but I suspect many modellers will at least consider lighting it. Indeed I believe the kit may have been designed with lighting in mind as I understand there is another boxing of this kit available (Deluxe Edition) that includes a custom lighting set and a motor to spin up the engine cage. No painting guide or decals are included, nor are any needed for this model as the very few colours that will be used are described in the assembly process, in strictly generic terms. Conclusions If one wishes to build a very small scale model of the C-57D at rest, this is very probably the kit to choose, your options are fairly limited and all of them are more expensive. There really isn’t all that much to this kit, but it’s reasonably well done and it should look pretty good OOTB, at 11” in diameter it’s certainly not small. If you want to represent your C-57D in the flying configuration I strongly suspect that the Deluxe Edition of this kit would be a better starting point for most modellers, I cannot say more than this as I have not seen the other boxing. If you want to build a super detailed kit of the C-57D straight from the box, Polar Lights’ earlier, but much more expensive, 1:72 kit remains the best option. Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  18. This is just a basic, out-of-box build with no lighting as I've yet to venture into the world of electronic wiring! My original plan was to aim for the pearlescent effect seen on the TMP studio model, however I couldn't get my pearlescent medium to airbrush very well, so I hedged my bets and settled for the coat of Tamiya pearl white spray that I'd applied over a white undercoat. The end result is a little on the light side compared to what we see on our screens (and not as beautiful!), but I'm reasonably pleased with the pay-off, and the old gal still looks fine in white! At first I'd considered a panel wash, but thought twice and decided to let the model do the talking due to the scale. Next step was the kit's extensive Aztec decal coverage, which visually I am extremely impressed with; however these were the hardest decals I've ever had to work with. They were very brittle, and I couldn't get them to slide very much, so there's a few mistakes in there. A coat of Revell acrylic matt varnish smartened things up nicely. Next, the clear parts for the nacelles, deflector dish, torpedo launcher and impulse engine were airbrushed with Tamiya clear paints. I installed a paper screen inside the deflector housing to hide the models innards; I painted it in an attempt to mimic a glowing effect, but it can't be seen very well through the shadow and the dish part. Overall the kit was a joy to build and a challenge to finish - the decals are well worth the frustration as they lend a feel of authenticity to the model. Thanks for looking, and as usual any comments etc are most welcome. Regards, Ross.
  19. Here we go again.... In an effort to appease some one of our numpties illustrious fellow members, and to prove that I can (or cannot) multi-task, I have been baited (against my better judgement I may add), into creating another thread, yeh, even while my DB5 build has not yet come to fruition, in order to satiate aforementioned members appetite and polymeric addiction. I shall not mention georgeusa's name for I am certain we are all well aware that his reputation far precedes him, like a serpent, slithering through the undergrowth. So, that being said, welcome to the thread. In this chapter of my BM life, I am attempting to build not one robot, not one and a half robots, but two, yes, that's two, (II, 2) robots, both of whom I am sure everyone is fully aware - Robby the Robot from Forbidden Planet, and Robot B9 (a.k.a. GUNTER, a.k.a. YM3) from Lost In Space. And to make matters worse, there are some pretty awesome builds of both robots out there on the interwebby. And so, georgeusa, who's name I shall not mention.... not only am I multi-tasking but I with these two builds in tandem, I am multi-tasking2 ! Both are Polar Lights releases, some years old I believe, and I actually started both of them a while back, way before I even contemplated building Periwinkle the Dalek. Since then, they have both languished in my build bin, stuck on a shelf, never knowing when or if they were going to be completed. Well, now the time has come. I am reaching the end of my DB5 build (I hope!) and need something else to occupy my wayward hours with. Although I had started them both, to be honest I hadn't really got that far with either of them. Here's B9, or GUNTER... and here's Robby... (sorry I couldn't help but announce that in my head in some crazy American accent!) Assembly began, and there are some pretty nasty seams to take care of, especially on the arms. The body wasn't too bad although I think I may revisit the seams on B9 here. B9's legs for some reason appeared to be a bit easier. I think I managed to get this seam taken care of... Along with his legs. (well, almost...) .. and with this post, I have now apparently committed myself to building a couple of robots and finishing of a DB5 - Oh the humiliation if I fail to deliver. Okay, now for some thoughts: I have no idea how to continue with these builds. Originally I had wanted to add a lot of detail, however, there is an etch set for Robby, but the only etch set I can find for B9 is for the smaller, teeny weeny version. Even with the Robby etch set, the only parts I think I would use are the radar circley things that are inside the dome. I know the kits parts are absolutely awful, but I hate the idea of spending almost $30 just to get those two parts, so who knows where this is going to go.... stay tuned At some point, I plan on getting the newly released 1/6 B9, but there's a slight moratorium on my spending habits (- still waiting for the in-house chancellor to set me free again). oh, and the surprise will be announced later - if I can pluck up the courage to commit myself to yet another build... any guesses?
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