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Found 5 results

  1. Hi All If anyone is thinking of getting this kit, there are a few parts misprint in the instructions. Also, in my kit anyway, there were no painting masks, even though they were shown in the instructions (I've contacted the supplier and ICM). So the wrongly numbered parts are in sections 31-33, the parts are supposed to be H8, H12, H3 & H2; and in Section 42 part D19 (attaches to D12) should be D17. Also, although the final paint versions show which decals are to be used, decals #1 and #2 are not shown where to be placed. As it turns out decal #1 is the instrument panel and goes on E27, but I cannot see where decal #2 is supposed to go. It's a bit late if it goes inside the cockpit as I've completed that. Finally, I would suggest that you place H8 and C3 on the front of fuselage (section 10) and before leaving it to dry, loosely place G12 in place so as to ensure proper fitting once Section 10 has completely cured. Finally, before placing G12, cement section 28 in place. I found it did not fit as shown in the instructions. Eventually got it more-or-less in position. There is no color call out for the internal parts, so assumed the cockpit and where the paratrooper sit, the floor is painted steel, and the controls painted steel with the handles in matt black and the base of parts E9 and E30 in khaki. Trust this is all as clear as mud and makes sense. Thank you.
  2. Hey y'all, so I picked up a partially 'built' Hase F111C on the auction site for cheap. Naturally it was missing parts, the entire nose gear leg and struts plus wheels, and one of it's engine/exhausts, I've already got a resin wheel set on the way and plan to scratch build the nose gear strut/leg assembly with spare parts and plasticard rod, and I've got a nice Resin F model engine/exhaust set on the way as well. pretty much everything else was there, all structural and aerodynamic parts are. Except the glove vanes/canards/leading strakes where the swing wing shoulder meets the fuselage, both of those pointy bits are missing, and I don't think anyone makes a replacement for those, and they are rather aesthetically important, so I'm going to have to scratch build them. I'm wondering if any has ideas of tips on scratch building curved aerodynamic parts like that. My other question is, what external differences are there between C and F 'Varks besides the engines, I got the F model resin parts because they were cheaper, and also the F is a little cooler I guess. So I was wondering if there is any small external changes I should make to conform to the F aesthetic. From the Initial Pics on Ebay you can see the Fuselage wasn't in good shape, it was worse in person: This is Her Current State, I've disassembled the fuselage roof plate and the intakes, add the main gear bay ceiling, then I've reattached them all with modern Plastic Cement (Tamiya extra thin) rather than whatever yellow adhesive was used before, and I broke out my clamps and also finger held the slightly bent belly in place to even out the sides and most huge gaps are close and things are a much tighter stronger fit, I also assembled one wing to test fit the wing slot and fitment on the fuselage, same with de-sprueing the vertical and horizontal stabs and checking fitment:
  3. Has anyone found a source online selling copies of maintenance and parts APs for the Bristol Blenheim IV at all? There are plenty of sets of Pilot's Notes floating around the web but not it seems anything on the parts/maintenance side. Any help most gratefully received brethren. Tony
  4. Hey I'm currently trying to get the replacement parts of a Buccaneer canopy (1/72) and a Wellington prop (1/72). I don't have the parts numbers and Airfix has asked me for them. Can anyone help? If not - the Lancaster prop number (and I'll get 2)? Anyone know how much their parts cost too? Thanks
  5. I recently managed to wreck the tip (part VLT-3: brass 'cone') on my old Paasche VL. In short, the needle got pushed through and split the thing. Anyway, I ordered a replacement set online, i.e. needle, tip, and air cap. So far so good. I decided to fit the new needle (VLN-3) and air cap (VLA-3), along with the new tip. With all those in place, the airbrush flatly refuses to spray much of anything (even water), except over a very small range of the needle's travel. Cue a long session of cleaning the brush. Still no joy. It appears that not enough suction was being generated to pull the liquid out of the cup. Swapping various components in and out, it became clear that the culprit was the air cap. With the old air cap fitted, everything works more or less as before. This despite there being no discernable shape difference between old and new air caps. (For the record, the old one was stamped with the digit '3', whereas the new one has three engraved stripes around the circumference.) Anyway, I'm happy now that everything works again. Just a bit of a head's up in case anyone comes across a similar problem. Clearly something changed between my 'old' Paasche, and the newer models that makes the parts not fully interchangable. regards, Jason
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