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  1. https://www.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid035DVhVCpjGqVej8C3zZahR8Vt1GmvFm2LjLrtJVrmoT83GFRjCGANYoPQqxCdDkbEl&id=100091816387706&post_id=100091816387706_pfbid035DVhVCpjGqVej8C3zZahR8Vt1GmvFm2LjLrtJVrmoT83GFRjCGANYoPQqxCdDkbEl For the non Facebookers... As mentioned in the FB post, it seemed 'inspired' by a well known F-14 pic. Then stuff started jumping out at me.... Nose proportion and shape Colour scheme Intakes Bellytank Roostertail spacing Gun housing But most of all, the nose and the proportions.....I reckon the 'artist' modified an F-14 pic into an F-4! 🤣
  2. Hello fellow modellers. I only brush paint at the moment. On a one colour coverage I manage to avoid brush strokes. However, when applying the darker camouflage to a model (in standard RAF patterns) I use a smaller round brush and the paintwork tends to be patchy and highlights the brush strokes. Do any more experienced modellers have any tips or advice they could impart please? Thanks for reading.
  3. Here’s a tip for anyone using cans to paint models or whatever. Instead of putting the cans in hot water for a while to ginger up the propellant and make the paint flow nicely I bought an electric coffee warmer pad. Mine runs off mains but there’s usb versions too, and generally less than the price of one paint aerosol. Sit the can on the warmer for a few minutes it gets nice and warm (limited to 65C) and the paint agitator works as soon as you shake the can and the paint spray’s beautifully. Works great now, even more useful in the colder seasons. cheers Will
  4. Hi all, I’ve created a crash test dummy to practice weathering. I cleaned the model. Brush painted 3 coats of acrylic colour, blue on top, off-white on the bottom. Then used a MIG panel line enamel paint. Issues: I noticed some blistering, which equated to removed paint once I removed the enamel weathering with a cotton bud. What would cause this? On one section of the model, the weathering enamel would not rub off with cotton buds. Why would this happen? I have yet to try thinners, but imagine it will remove it. Just wondering why it comes off in some areas with cotton buds and not in others (smoothness of paint?)…? Generally it worked well though. A separate test saw me spraying Matt varnish on the model. This pooled in a few areas (white gloopy mess). It took lots of sanding to rectify and even then there was some evidence of the issue. What would cause this? Thanks for any guidance/advice/experience.
  5. Hello everyone I am planning the 2-tone camouflage of my M3 Grant tank (desert colours) and have bought some Mig Ammo Camouflage putty. I don't own an airbrush (yet!) but wondered if anyone has used this technique with normal brushes and could tell me if it works OK or if there are any pitfalls. Thanks for any help!! 🙂
  6. Many thanks to eBay for the image.... Can anyone help with tips for paining Translucent white(ish) bottles and water tanks similar to the below I have to paint this on a grey plastic... Getting this "translucency" is very difficult... Many thanks in advance for any tips...
  7. I've almost completed my first model in over 25 years, the SH Kittyhawk 1a (just need to add the final pre-painted bits and pieces and open canopy) and my next project will be either a Spitfire (Eduard VIII) or Seafire (Sword IIc) so looking for some help please. I have raised this question in the Modelling Tips section previously but with limited response so hopefully this may have more joy as the main area I struggled with after all these years was the application of the camouflage scheme. This took for ever to do using thin rolled pieces of blu tak to mark out the scheme and then filling in the areas not to be sprayed using a myriad pieces of masking tape! It worked quite well but at this rate I'll be lucky to make 2-3 kits a year! I know that there are masking scheme products/masks available from a variety of manufacturers but having never used them I'm wondering if they would be a simpler and faster method for applying either the 'a' or 'b' scheme to my Spitfire/Seafire or are they also fraught with difficulties? Regards Colin.
  8. Dear All, I have just bought replacement Aires resin wheels for my Airfix Lancaster (the 1980's version) but have never used resin parts before so wanted to check if I need to do anything special to them before painting other than cleaning/degreasing as usual please? As for the wheels themselves they look spot on and superior to those in the kit although I gather those in the new kit are excellent. Also if anyone has any tips on how best to paint the wheels so that they look more realistic it would be appreciated as I normally paint them black and then add some dark-ish grey pastel dust to the main tread area to simulate wear but this still leaves the side walls looking rather unrealistic and far too black and matt in scale. Thank you and stay safe. Kind Regards Colin.
  9. I've been working on and off with these kits for months............................. I got the base colour done. Then the first gloss coat and decals. A somewhat in-expert dark pinwash followed a second gloss coat. Unfortunately, when I came to do the matt coat prior to weathering I selected an old tin of Humbrol matt (49). This tin now resides in the bin. Because, as you will see below, it isn't quite the finish I was looking for! Someone might say "that looks awwight" but to me they look like they've been left out in the frost. Question arises as to what comes next (apart from my initial thoughts about the plastic following the matt varnish). I've read about a further gloss coat with a repeat pinwash/matt coat being a possible remedy. As an alternative I wonder about finishing weathering them as they are and incorporating the "new markings" into the finished results. I think I read somewhere about everywhere in Normandy being ankle deep in fine light coloured dust that got everywhere. I don't really want to repaint them as I don't have any replacement decals. Any expert advice would be much appreciated, so thank you in anticipation.😊
  10. Dear All, Having perused many of the excellent recent builds of these two aircraft it makes me realise just how 'unrealistic' my efforts are when it comes to painting the exhaust manifolds as they still end up just looking like painted plastic. I'm not after any trade secrets, and I know that practice may eventually make perfect though sadly not true in this case, but can anyone share some basic tips on how I can get them to look as if they are actually made from metal and far more like the real thing please? Apologies if this has been raised in a previous thread/topic. Kind Regards Colin.
  11. I got these figures in a Warhammer magazine that is being sold in Australia now,I do like some Warhammer figures and have painted some in the past,it's their price in Australia that stops me from buying more,but these were in the first issue and cheap,(my favorite price),I may pick up the next two issues and then it will be a wait and see.I changed the head on 2 Sequitor figures and a new weapon for another,the other 10 Chainrasp's look Cool,they do give you 11 in the pack but with a part missing,being one not to waste anything I made this one up on a gravestone and gave it a left hand from my spares box,it's the last figure in these pics. Cheers Jim.
  12. Hallo again This time with an F-15A from the IAF. The same kit my husband finished a short time ago. Now I learned from him, and I got advice how to make it better. Together with present day regulations according Corona, I stay home and use this amount of time to focus on the paint job of my model. To understand it clearly: The hot area is the first area I focus on. Using the new SM colors from Mr. Hobby. I do not refer to them, read my husband’s blog please! I did nothing else as: Base colour is Titan for the hot area of the engine. Afterward masking panels one by one or in groups. I used highly diluted black for this purpose. One stroke, two or three, to create individual shades. It takes time to learn to understand what one stroke more with the airbrush causes. So I learn on a fuselage with base color in all SM colors. So I get a clue what the result will be. Anyway, the pictures include also the gun and nose area. This is just the beginning. Happy modelling
  13. Might be starting this in the near future. Took me a while to get hold of one at a good price, but a few months ago I finally got one. I also have the extra parts set that includes the parts for tanker and photo reconnaissance Valiants, but I'm not sure if I'm going to use it yet. I haven't decided which scheme she'll be painted in either yet. I know I don't want to do the photo reconnaissance scheme (silver and red) and I'm not keen on the all silver second prototype. So basically it's between the tanker in anti-flash white, two bomber schemes in anti-flash white, and the camo scheme depicting a bomber shortly before the Valiants were grounded. I'll also be looking to pick up a micro mir 1/144 one at some point as 1/144 will be round 2 of my v bomber project (the Victor will be micro Mir's new Victor b1, and I'm hoping they will do a vulcan b1 soon). If anyone's got any Valiants they've built, please post pictures (or a link) here
  14. I'm just about to start a build that requires white SEAC recognition stripes on wings and tail, which I've never done before. My first impulse was to do things backwards, and lay down the white paint first, before masking it off and applying Dark Green and Dark Earth comouflage on top. This is of course unrealistic, and I see build logs in which folks do things the right way round, with the white applied on top of the camouflage. I'm worried about how many coats of white I might need to apply to get a good result, however - I don't want to obscure moulding detail or have a thick margin to my white stripes. Any tips?
  15. I have another question for my 2-pounder project, for those who may be able to help. I have the set of shells and spent casings from RB Models. I had intended to just use the spent casings, but the loaded shells themselves are so nicely-done it seems a shame to not use them as well. But my attempts to get a look at the colors of the shells (whether there were any steel bands on them, etc.) has turned up next to nothing. I tried a variety of Google queries but all I got were 17-pounder and 25-pounder examples. Any idea whether the rounds were just satin-ish black, or if there were any bands/stripes on them? Thanks in advance, Randy
  16. Hi guys, I am working on a 1/72 Special Hobby DH-100 Vampire FB52 - building it as a Mk6 of the Swiss air force. It's just the second 1/72 kit I build. I tried to build the instrument panel by using gloss black and white to paint individual gauges/instruments. What works quite well in 1/48 looks in 1/72 just wrong. Mainly the white gauges stand out too much looking not right. The only alternative I know of is either using decals or just painting the instruments with gloss black and putting a drop of clear color over it to simulate the glass covering the instruments. Any other ways of how to get a decent 1/72 instrument panel painted right? Using decals is not my preference but might be the easiest way to go.... Cheers, Michael
  17. Hi, I have purchased the Revell Dream Liner kit ex Zvezda, and having never built a civil airliner in my life I would like to know if anyone has any hints on the best way to go about getting a good result. I'm not a novice by any means but have never built this type of model. I've got a set of after market Norwegian Airlines decals. I will be at Telford next weekend so I will be seeking out the SIG's and other civil airliner groups for answers to any question that arise. Thanks in advance Phill
  18. Bertiee

    New to priming

    Hello, I've made a few models and I've never primed anything. Not intentionally, I'm just inexperienced and wasn't aware it was something you should do. I was going to grab some spray paint to prime my models, but should I be priming everything? So by that I mean little details such as undercarriage components on an aircraft. Also can anyone recommend any (fairly inexpensive) primer? I've seen some people say that it doesn't really matter what you use as it's more about technique, but if I'm going to be buying some I might as well get something recommended! Thanks
  19. Hello Members Another noob question. I must say I did do a search, but the results were not helpful, so here is the direct approach. So I have the Spitfire kit, I have the Mr Color paints, the airbrush and mini compressor. What eludes me is the gloss varnish. I noticed the use of Mr Color GX100, but it's not found in the UK (well at ridiculous cost!). I noticed the arguments are many for and against the use of Pledge floor varnish. So what do I use?
  20. Hi guys I'm currently working on a Revell/Zvezda 777 and a 747-8. Do you have any suggestions on how to paint the fanblades? They are overall black with a thin silver front edge. How would you paint the edge? Seems to be quite a challenge to get it right. Thank you and best regards Stefan
  21. Hi guys, I am intending to use Alclad for an NMF paint and heard that it requires a coat of some kind of micro filler first and then good sanding down of it. Can someone help me out which tools are best for this and how to it right? Thanks in advance. Cheers, Michael
  22. Good day all, I'm just about to start my second model and I've been reading the forums to try to figure out in what order to do things while building a model. However ... it seems that there are a number of ways of doing things and a multitude of techniques and products. So for us new or returning to the modelling game I'd like to see if we can produce something like a modelling 101 ... the basics. Sticking with things more readily available in your local HobbyCraft, for example, is one way to get people started and to a good finish on a model without being overwhelmed by the options out there. So ..... Here's where I'm at before I start my next model. Can some of you more experienced modellers (most of you lol) help guide me through my thinking and advise on where I'm missunderstanding various steps. Step 1 - Priming. I'm using Humbrol Enamel Paints on Airfix kits. Is priming needed or will the enamel paints adhere well to clean plastic? Step 2 - Painting detailed parts. As stated I'm starting with Humbrol Enamel paints. Shaking the paints to death seems to be needed a lot but does work. I'm applying the paint by hand with various brushes but how many coats of enamel should be needed ? Also if the paint seems to be running a little thin is this just a case of needing to shake a little more ? Avoiding painting the surfaces where glue is to be applied is also a must or components won't fit. Step 3 - Assembly. I've worked out that glasswork needs to be added after the exterior painting is completed so the bits under the glasswork are the right colour. So slow assembly of the model needs to take place. Humbrol filler can be used to fill in any imperfections in the joins and then smoothed off. Fine emery boards are good for smoothing away the bits left after removing the parts from the mouldings. Step 4 - Paint glasswork Step 5 - Coat glasswork in Humbrol Clear Step 6 - Add glasswork decals Step 7 - Again coat glasswork in Humbrol Clear to seal Step 8 - Paint assembled bodywork Step 9 - Seal bodywork with Humbrol Clear Step 10 - Apply decals Step 11 - Seal decals with Humbrol Clear Step 12 - Apply weathering effects using weathering powders watered down with some Humbro thinners. Build up effect slowly and wash down with thinners and a cotton bud. Step 13 - Have a coffee Now the above is where i'm currently at as a basic walk through on how to get your modelling restarted but I'm open to comments and suggestions. I'll also try to add the next build into the work in progress thread so I can pick up advice along the way. I'm trying to keep things simple but effective for starters so if I'm way off on something then please let me know. Would appreciate the help/advice Thanks Dave.
  23. Hi, I've seen lots of amazing finished projects on here where the tiny gap and rivets are highlighted by dark paint? How do I do this?
  24. Painting Guide For AFV of WWII and Modern Era Jose Luis Lopez Ruiz - Casemate UK It has been a while since this reviewer switched from AFV modelling to aircraft. I found I could never really achieve the results I wanted, and this was in those pre-internet days of long ago. I do wish there had been books like this then. The book is what I would describe as medium/large format in an A-4 portrait sized book with a soft cover. There are 82 high quality pages. The printing is excellent through out, with clear text and great photographs illustrating the various techniques. Jose Luis Lopez Ruiz is a world renowned Spanish modeller who is a major contributor to The Steelmaster Magazine. He is a very talented modeller who has spent years developing his own techniques. In this publication we are introduced to his "Black & White" technique which has to be seen to be believed. As well as explaining the "Black & White" technique the book covers; Primers Layering Paints (Enamel & Acrylic) Washes Varnishes Pigments Primers The second half of the book then show cases five builds from WWII and the modern era to demonstrate the techniques discussed earlier. The photographs are clear and the text is concise. A gallery of completed models completes the book. Conclusion This is a great learning guide from a top class modeller. While you might not stick to one specific technique as shown, the book provokes thought as to how the individual modeller might make use of the techniques on show to finish their own model. Highly recommended, it might even spark the reviewer into making AFVs again! Review sample courtesy of
  25. I am new to Britmodeller and I am hoping to get constructive criticism on the kits I have built and painted so far. I need to work out how to post the pictures on here but I have been doing this for about a year and a half and I enjoy it very much. I lost my son in an accident almost two years ago and I fell into this hobby as a means of distraction, little did I know how much it would take hold of me. So,please be honest and constructive. I am hoping to improve my skills and maybe one day enter competitions. Thank you
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