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I needed to strip the old paint of a badly wore out diecast toy, not a problem, I have done it before and never had a problem. Last time I did it, I used to use Brake fluid, but, they have changed the formula to a more "green friendly" substance and the stuff will no longer touch paint. So, decided to go to extreme, Nitromors, I immersed the item in the green gunge for about 2 hours and when I pulled it out, the paint was hardly touched. I did a Google search on the stuff and found out from one of our sister forums that the company changed the formulae in 2010 and removed some harmful substances in the mix and replaced them with "friendlier alternatives". Nitromors still does strip some “household paints, but instead of taking 10 mins, the time has been upped to 30 mins, even then, not all removed. So, another site recommended Caustic Soda, available from DIY stores(but banned in USA and many other places) Its classed as Mangers Drain Cleaner or Paint stripper………..this has been removed from the shelves as DIY stores deem it too dangerous to sell, BUT, they do sell their own drain cleaner and Paint stripper and on the side of the tub/bottle….this product contains no Caustic Soda……….Health and Safety Issue………….so, next stop, Oven Cleaner, it used to work, guess what? It no longer does. Put an item for stripping in the mix 1 hour ago and the paintwork, has just started to go gooey, paint beneath, still rock hard…………..Hmmmmmmmm, so……..I came home, Ebayed Caustic Soda and I managed to find some, but wondering, when it arrives whether all harmful chemicals have been removed. Nail Varnish remover, Cellulose thinners, enamel thinners, white spirit, tried em all, none work or did the expected job I also tried to get hold of some Tippex thinners……..apparently this is also a harmful chemical and since 2006 has been a banned item worldwide, some say, Tippex is now waterbased, but if you can still get hold of original Tippex and it gets thick, use Nail Varnish Remover, not too much or it melts the container. Well, with the EEC rules and Health and Safety various hobbies are now becoming dangerous and a liability to modellers Health? Its forcing Modellers to look for alternatives and taking risks on even more dangerous chemicals to arrive at the same results as before these “friendly “ alternatives took there place. Watch out because soon, I bet you will not be able to remove chrome from plastic when an alternative solution replaces what you do now. If memory serves me well, I think that they have already had a go at enamel paint………..

Hi guys, As the title says I'm after a starting ratio for PRU Blue that I can make from from Gunze Acqueous colours. I'm hoping to get my RF-84G into the paintshop this weekend. for your help. Cheer Mick

Hi Does these new regulations regarding Airmail,that no paints,thinners, etc. are not allowed to be delivered outside UK or that it would be (very) expensive to customer due to some courier service ? I've been trying to order acryl paints and thinners from my favorite stores in UK and ran these kind of problems,I live in Finland btw. Is this some "lovely" EU thing or solely UK's ? Wonder why they can be delivered on Airmail from the Far East and North America. Have I understand something wrong myself or what....? Please help me this dear friends. TIA Teemu Haajanen

I'm trying to get myself together on the colours used in low vis / grey colour schemes. I've seen references in various build logs, but as usual can't find again now I want! My preference (for ease) are Vallejo acrylics although I know they don't do the likes of Ghost/Gull grey. Anyone point me in the right direction please?? Cheers

I've been reading the build reviews in several modelling mags & it often refers to 'dry brushing', especially when talking about finishing a section e.g. a cockpit. What is dry brushing? Surely when you dip a brush in paint it becomes wet (or am I just being a bit thick here?!). Perhaps it's using a dry pigment like ground up pastel or a weathering powder. Can someone please enlighten me. Thanks, Andrew (Currently saving up for a compressor so I can use my airbrush properly & finish the 1/72 Airfix Sabre that's all built, pending painting. May have to start my Airfix 1/72 Vulcan while I wait)

Working my way through the excellent Ebbro kit but I am in need of a suitable dull, semi matt gold paint for the wheels, preferably brushable. Does anyone know of a decent match for the kit decals? I figure Zero or some such do an exact match but looking for a more readily available option?

What are appropriate colors to use for painting those camouflaged Cold War-era MiG-23s in straight-up Soviet service? I am not a good paint mixer (as I am an excellent paint spiller), and I really only use acrylics, so "close enough" is probably fine. I see Testors/Polly (easily available here in the land of milk and honey that is northern Illinois) have some Soviet aircraft colors (Soviet Green, Soviet Khaki, Soviet Sand), but are these what I need?

Hi I have primed a Revell B2 with Halfords Grey plastic primer and now trying to put down some Vallejo Model Colour Foundation White for the undercarriage and other parts. I am thinning with distilled water (from the tumble-dryer) and but still not getting very good coverage after three coats - except in the corners where a nice layer of pigment is building up. The Foundation White is quite thick (even after lots of shaking) - almost oil paint consistency. I am using a brush - and adding the water to the white and mixing in the pallette. Could the Foundation white be "off", am I thinning it too much, or should I just keep trying thin coats?. Any suggestions on getting better coverage most gratefully received. many thanks anthony