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Found 98 results

  1. What is the true colour of Dark Green as applied to UK manufactured aircraft during WWII? For many years I've used Humbrol 30 and it is very close to US FS 595A Ref 34096. I got a copy of the Federal Standard paint chips back in the 1970s and it is kept in the dark. RAF Dark Green is a bluish green with no hint of brown. Recent tins of 30 are, when dry, almost exactly the same as 30 painted on to models back in the 1970s. Exploring airbrushing and acrylics purchased a number of Vallejo paints, covering WWII RAF colours. I was given a basic set of LifeColour paints. This week I tried both Life Colour 538 and Vallejo 71.016. Both claim to be RAF Dark Green, but once painted and dry are VERY different. The Vallejo seems to be more like 34096, a dark olive green colour with no blue hue at all and the Lifecolour is worse, a light earthy colour, more like 34027. What is the general experience of the colour accuracy of acrylic paints form the various makers? At the moment, based on one trial I'm very suspicious of all these acrylic paints..based on these two the temptation is to bin the lot!
  2. Hey, so I have this problem with Revell colors. I've bought Revell enamel matt 37 for the surface to look, well, matt. But that isn't the case as you can see in the pictures. The red color appears glossy. Now, I've put a matt 69 besides it for comparison, so you can clearly see the difference. I don't know what is going on. Could this be a mistake by Revell or did I do something wrong? Model looks kinda ruined for me now, because everything should have matt finish (it's a Boba Fett Slave I by Revell by the way). Is there any way to safe it? I have some varnish... Also, the paint has been drying for more than 24h, that is important for you to know. So, what to do?
  3. GazB

    AK Interactive Paints

    What's the general consensus on AK Interactive paints? Not the Real Color line but the dropper bottle ones. Do they behave exactly the same as the Mig Ammo, or are they slightly different? Reason I ask is I'm eyeing their woodland camouflage figure set, but don't want to spend that amount if they're going to be a bit dodgy. I've heard stories about the paints being lumpy or clogging, but this was from a few years ago. I once picked up a few Vallejo paints and they were horrendous. With the Mig Ammo paints I tend to put a few drops of Ultimate Thinners in the cup to improve the flow, and I would reason the same goes for AKI. I watched an official AK video showing their paints in action, but while they worked flawlessly, you do wondered how true it is given that its the company channel. Any clarity on the matter would be appreciated Cheers, Gaz
  4. I’ve built this over the last couple of days. It has storage for 150 Vallejo paints as well as some other odds and ends. The shelves are angled back so help the paints remain in place. I’m thinking of making a few of them to sell, so have a look and give me your feedback. And this is what it looks like with my paints in place. Manynthanks for looking. Mark
  5. I have a small problem which the other half might kill me for. I was working on a model and knocked pretty much all of a pot of humbrol black enamel paint on the cream living room carpet, resulting in a 3 inch stain... I got the most if it up with WD40 and some stain remover but she's still going to notice. Anyone got any good tricks?? Pretty please!
  6. I've just received my first set of Hataka red line paints. These paints are advertised as "optimised for airbrush" and the side of the bottle says "airbrush tested" The paints I received were a million miles away from being airbrush ready, they were thin-ish brush paints. After a short conversation with the UK stockist and with Hataka's facebook page, they have confirmed that none of their paints are airbrush-ready, they all need to be diluted. As far as I'm concerned this is, at best, misleading and at worst blatant and deliberate mis-selling. I'm very disappointed and I would advise Members to avoid the product.
  7. Hi, I am about to start painting on my Airfix Jet Provost - scheme is White, Red, LAG. Airfix suggests H174 for the Red, indicating it to be BS537 in the instructions. I also have here Xtracolor X014 Red Arrows Red, also labeled BS537. Comparing the two, Xtracolor looks a little lighter and a bit more one the 'orange' side than H174. I am not sure which paint to use. Does anyone know which one is the better match? TIA Ingo
  8. Hi, We've just received a restock from Mig.Ammo. There are a number of new products in with the general restocks. 20 new oil brusher colours, plus seven oilbrusher sets. Mig.ammo oilbrushers  - Sets & individual colours. Will hopefully have the 2 new RAF, muds and waters on the site tomorrow. Paul
  9. HunterClash

    Paint problems

    Hello, I am new here. So I was assembling the revell 777-300er(zvezda repackaging), and I got the KLM decals from draw decals. My problem is, how do I paint the blue top of the plane, when I don't have spray paint, only paint brush, and I'd love if you guys helped me out. Thanks in adance!
  10. RidgeRunner

    Humbrol tins

    Hi all! Does everyone struggle like me to keep these tins sealed and the paint lasting until the very end without drying up? I am thinking about decanting in to "Wilkin" small jam jars. Has anyone out there tried this? If so, what is your experience? Thanks, Martin
  11. There were 57 colours in BS 381 published in 1930 and exactly the same in BS 381C in October 1931. I am now trying to pin down exactly when the next eight colours (listed below) were added. Do you by any chance have any information about the dates of the amendments for each of these? I think they were all added before 1939 except 68 Traffic Yellow but the clues about that colour are not clear. 33 RAF Blue Grey 67 Traffic Green 68 Traffic Yellow 69 Traffic Blue 70 Traffic Red 71 Middle Graphite 72 Dark Graphite 73 Gulf Red Thank you in anticipation. William Marshall mechinf(at)netactive.co.za
  12. Recently taken delivery of these pens. Due to production problems, we only have the 2mm pen available at the moment, others (1mm, 4mm, refills) will be stocked as they become available. Molotow 2mm liquid Chrome Pen Introductory price, until June is £5.50 each Thanks, Paul
  13. Hi everyone, I'm John. I've looked on this site on and off for a couple years. Why? Well after about a 40 plus years gap, I've returned to make a few military models in 1/144 and 1/72, and as a surprise I got a 1/72 Spitfire (resin, based on a Boultbee Flight Academy Spitfire that flies in local over my garden quite often). After plastic modelling back in early seventies, I moved on to R/c planes then helicopters. That then got stopped as I started target shooting and after starting my apprenticeship got my Firearms certificate. So now 40 years later it's time to consider early retirement and get back to modelling. Something my wife has just promoted again with the Spitfire kit. Resin with metal parts it looks a challenge, and the biggest issue at the moment is what colours to paint inside and out etc. So, lots of site searching and probably lots of questions as well, so sympathy for you all as I ask questions that I probably shouldn't. Can't wait ( only excuse is time use, as I still work full time at the moment, but will force the model into it) . Thank you in advance
  14. Hi all! i need some advice based on your experiences. I have to say that Jens has been helpful but I am still paining over the first coat! i have my Super Sabre nearly ready for a green coat but I am still not sure what colours to use and I'd value your advice, thoughts, experiences. i use Humbrol enamels. I know that in the real world they were painted FS24079. However, almost every photo I've seen, and even my own from my early days, shows a blue-grey tone once the paint has faded. I have lightened Humbrol 116 but it goes a light yellowish-tinted colour. What advice do the collective have? thanks. Martin
  15. I'm not sure if anyone will be interested in this but… A couple of years ago I noticed that colours/shades on the Tamiya lids and paint charts didn't match the actual paint. So I used strips of plastic card to spray each colour to get an accurate swatch. It was a long BORING job, but it was well worth, it as I refer to it on almost every build I do. Out of interest, yesterday I superimposed the colour shown on a Tamiya paint chart, with a scan of my colour swatch. Admittedly, my monitor is not colour calibrated, but the differences shown, match my experiences of matching the paint lids with the colour on the model. As you can see, the only exact matches are black, white and XF-12. Some are quite close, but the majority are well off. Does anyone know why this is the case?
  16. Looking for a bit of guidance and tips on how best to mark of a nose cone requiring a different colour paint, particularly as in my Tornado, when the paint change doesn't follow panel lines! I tried using a rubber washer which when I finally managed to get it properly in place was OK, but didn't give the hard edge wanted. Tried to cut a circular hole in a piece of plasticard which was better, but again didn't get a hard enough edge as the nose isn't properly circular. Next was masking off the soft edge a bit to tidy up, but even with curve tape was far from satisfactory as ended up with a couple of kinks to the line edge. Pointers / hint gratefully received!
  17. Just in today, Meng Individual paints, £2.25 each http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/meng-single-acrylic-paints-385-c.asp More new products to add in the next few days.... Thanks, Paul
  18. GazB

    CARC Sand

    One of those age-old questions I imagine Which colours or mixes would best match the CARC sand applied to OIF vehicles (2003 onwards)? I have Tamiya Buff, Desert Yellow, Deck Tan and Wooden Deck Tan, as well as Vallejo Model Air Sand. I tried the Sand, and while I've had issues with my airbrush recently, sprayed or brushed, it almost looks too...yellow. Like there's a pale yellow tint to it; if I were to best describe it, it almost looks similar to Walls vanilla ice cream. It doesn't seem to match either the faded appearance of some vehicles I've seen, or the newer coats, which look darker. The Vallejo Sand paint also seems to be slightly satin. As an alternative, what would be a good mix of Tamiya paint for the scheme? I know people mention the Model Master paint as the best match, but I don't have access to it, nor do I use enamels for spraying. Cheers in advance. Gaz P.S. As I understand it, Gunze-Sangyo H313 is said to be a match for the FS number for CARC Sand. However, I'm not very familiar with GS paints. Is the Aqueous line the acrylic one? I ask because on emodels this paint is named as Aqueous, but lacks the 'H' in front of the number, which I gather defines it as acrylic. Should it indeed be the acrylic version, and if I was to purchase, would I be able to use distilled water or Tamiya X-20A to thin it for airbrushing? I only ask because buying up new bottles of thinner for one pot would likely turn me off the idea, lol.
  19. GazB

    Tamiya Paint Issues

    Long story short, I have not had an enjoyable day of modelling. My new airbrush+compressor, bought to replace my previous one that had started acting up, turned out to be even worse both in the compressor and the airbrush (low power spray, spitting, popping from the brush) despite being the exact same make and model. Shaken my confidence in my airbrush (even a new one) to perform as expected. To make matters worse, when I finally got a bit of painting done, two things happened. I recently purchased two pots of Tamiya Flat Black since I was always running out. In using the first one, not only did the new airbrush seem to eat up more paint than it spat out, but I got weird wet sploches throughout. After switching over to the other pot, an even worse result occurred. Bear in mind this is FLAT Black, it came out looking like Gloss Black. It dried as a Gloss as well. Capping off the day was a bottle of Vallejo paint that was unbelievably tedious to use and spray. Ordinarily I never have any problems with Tamiya paints other than a bit of spitting when I use white, but this was truly unbelievable. I can't tell if the paint has been mislabeled or what. Both pots were thinned in the same way as all previous pots of black have been. Airbrushing used to be quick and easy for me, but since mine went on the blink I've been stalled. Today was supposed to be a glorious return with maybe an hour of work, but turned into a 6-hour nightmare While many people swear by Vallejo, I'm less than impressed with this bottle of Model Air. I just wish Tamiya would add some new colours to their range...and not put gloss paint in a matt pot. Anyone had similar troubles with Tamiya? Gaz
  20. Hello I have been trying to get a bottle of Tamiya Panel Line Accent brown or black here in the UK but with no luck. Is there an alternative to this for highlighting panel lines?
  21. I know this topic has been aired before, but it wasn't dealt with in a particularly conclusive manner. I'm looking at painting an X-20 Dynasoar, which had an all-black thermal paint scheme, similar to the SR-71, at least for our purposes, and was wondering how best to go about it. Would it be a case of praying it flat back and then layering it up with enough Klear to support decals, then bringing it back down with flat varnish? Or are there more elaborate ways that people can recommend? TIA.
  22. Hi all, I was wondering if I could get some help concerning the colours for some RAAF aircraft? I mainly use Vallejo Model Air paints with my airbrush because of how well they flow so it would be nice to find equivalents for the foliage green, the dark earth they used and what ever colour the underside was. If your are wondering the aircraft I'm looking to get is a Beaufighter, Wirraway and a Boomerang Thanks in advance, Cam
  23. My fellow modellers, As a predominantly brush painter, does anyone know what colour blues are used to paint the Japanese F2? I prefer Humbrol, but if you know any brands / numbers they will be usefull Many thanks
  24. Hello to all the gear heads! I'll come right out and explain that I'm rookie to model automobile building, but not modeling overall (airplanes mostly). I know where to go to get all my other supplies, but need a guide to where the cool car stuff is, and where the DEALS are, too. Having done a crash course of research and kit acquisition I'm on the after market items now. My focus is narrow, "Le Mans" type racing sports cars from the 60s. Here are my questions: 1) What type of PE harness(es) do I need for this era of car (Ferrari, Jag, Corvette, GT40, Porsche) 2) These cars are festooned with little lights on the body around the numbers. Surely these are available aftermarket, right? 3) What's the best acrylic paint (can or bottle) for the metallic British Racing Green for the Jag). Any other suggestions and hints will be appreciated. TIA!!
  25. Hi, I recently found a compressor and two airbrushes. The airbrushes are Badger 200NH and Badger 155 Anthem. Currently I only have access to Revell Enamels in the little 14ml cans. So I was wondering whether it's possible to thin them down enough with whitespirit (Seems like I have an infinite supply of it haha), to be able to use them with the airbrushes.
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