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  1. Arma Hobby is to release in 2021 a 1/72nd North American P-51B/C Mustang kit. Source: http://armahobbynews.pl/en/blog/2020/12/30/arma-hobby-new-kit-announcements-for-2021/ Sprues design & 3D renders V.P.
  2. After the P-51D/K Eduard is to release 1/48th North American P-51B/C Mustang kits Source: https://www.eduard.com/out/media/InfoEduard/archive/2022/info-eduard-2022-10-special.pdf V.P.
  3. Next Kovozávody Prostějov - KP (http://www.kovozavody.cz/) 1/72nd kit is a new tool North American P-51B/C Mustang - ref. Source: https://www.facebook.com/SAMEditor1 V.P.
  4. After the P-51B/C (link), Arma Hobby is to release the 1/72nd North American P-51D/K Mustang bubbletop versions. Source comments: https://www.facebook.com/ArmaHobby/posts/4796445153719137 V.P.
  5. Thanks "hawkeye" Tbolt (link) ! Is Eduard to release soon a new tool (?) 1/72nd North American P-51D kit? Let's have a look at page 52 of this month Eduard Info Vol.20 May 2021. Source: https://www.eduard.com/out/media/InfoEduard/archive/2021/info-eduard-2021-05-enrr.pdf V.P.
  6. Hi, I've been a long-time lurker and liker on here, occasional commenter and epically rare poster. However, I thought it was time to put something back in to the forum and I'm just embarking on the build of a project that I hope you lot find interesting, so I thought I'd start my very first build thread. 😬 I have a long history of making models (50+ years) and have done my stint on the usual polystyrene affairs. I think I must've made 95% of the Airfix range during my youth. However, in the last few years I've found myself drifting toward larger scale multimedia kits and scratch building. Building Hasegawa's Museum Series 1:8 Camel and Fokker DR.I got me into 1:8 scale, and engines in particular. Having scratch-built a couple of Hispano-Suizas (specifically the ones fitted to the SE5a) and a Le Rhone 9C (which I really must finish) I felt it was time to build a 1:8 Merlin. I originally wanted build a Merlin III as I consider this to be the first 'true' Merlin. However, quite a few hours of web research culminated in discovering that those lovely people at the Air Corps Library ( https://app.aircorpslibrary.com/ ) have put almost the complete Packard Merlin drawing set online which you can access for a few pounds each month. There are also quite a few North American P-51C/D drawings there too. I simply couldn't pass up the opportunity to scratch build a model using the original manufacturer's drawings and the Merlin III idea was upgraded to a Packard Merlin V1650-7 from the P-51C/D. This engine is very similar to the Rolls-Royce Merlin 68 and 69, and those are regularly referenced on the Packard's General Assembly drawings and Illustrated Parts Manual. In addition to the Packard drawing set, The Smithsonian Museum's website has some excellent pictures of the Packard engine which really clinched the deal as I'm housebound and not able to get out and photograph the things myself. https://airandspace.si.edu/collection-objects/packard-rolls-royce-merlin-v-1650-7-v-12-engine/nasm_A19520106000 As a result of my deficiencies in fashioning plasticard and putty to a level I'm satisfied with I use CAD and 3D printing for a lot of my modelling work, either to produce the parts directly, or to produce mould masters for resin casting activities. Therefore the first thing required to produce the Merlin will be a detailed CAD model. This an activity likely to take quite a few months and I have doubts about the level of interest such a thread would attract, though I've been enjoying the Westland Scout thread on here quite a lot, so maybe I'm wrong. Whatever, in true Blue Peter fashion, here's one I prepared earlier. The model has been drawn as the engine might look if it'd not long been removed from an aircraft. It's not strictly how Packard would've delivered it. The original engines came without exhausts fitted, no generator and the coolant inlet pipe missing for a start. These were all furnished by North American when building the aircraft and I wanted them on for the full Merlin look. I can go into the process of how the CAD files are converted into bits of hard plastic if people are interested. Explaining how I produced the CAD model isn't going to happen. I don't know how to explain it succinctly. The short form is that the CAD program (AutoCAD and Fusion 360) throws out an STL 3D file which then goes into a 'slicer' program. That converts the STL file into a form acceptable to your particular 3D printer and adds the various supports required to hold the model while it prints. I use the freebie version of Chitubox for this because: a) I'm a tightwad. b) It does everything I want, and the whizzy features of the paid-up version aren't enough to prise the hard earned pennies from my grasping fingers. This is what the preview of the print looks like on the Chitubox screen. I shall be running this print over night tonight as it'll take about 14 hours to complete*. There will be 8 more print runs required to finish all the parts required for the model. I hate to think how many hours that will take, I'll let you know how it goes... * For those interested in 3D printing, I'm printing it on a Phrozen Sonic Mighty 12k with 20um layer height and using Phrozen's Aqua Grey 8k resin. The lateral resolution of the 12k is 19um x 24um IIRC.
  7. Halberd Models (https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/halberdmodels) from Ukraine is to release on September 20th, 2022 three Mustang resin kits - ref. 001-345 - North American XP-51 Mustang - ref. 001-355 - Rolls-Royce Mustang Mk.X - ref. 001-355 - North American Mustang Mk.I Source: https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=pfbid0YpfivSysCSibsr7q7Z2XTWBrxp8hAWcEYTavbxCrVif4rDJ7kkPdfkizFzJaeJG9l&id=100064057054695 V.P.
  8. So I picked up the 1979 Airfix P51B from Bovington model show ....checked it had a canopy ...tick👍 What a suprise when I got it home it was a P51D canopy.After pondering modifying bits of canopy?I put a call out on the wanted Forum and @Fatalbert....came to the rescue with a vacuform one. Only I cut it all wrong ...sausage fingers and cocked it up. So continued the build then I found out there was a chinese brand...cant remember which its packed away for the big house move. Anyway it has two canopies the bubble malcom hood and a car door type?. Stuck that one fettled it and volia one dodgy model. Had some snags with silvering probably because I am a piso git ...tight as a gnats chuff..and used an old bottle of humbrol clear.. Its in the bin now. Still ere tiz Thanks to @adrianMF too for advice ....sorry @fatalbert about tthe canopy.
  9. This is the Tamiya 1/48 P-51D Mustang, marked as John C. Meyer's "Petie 2nd". Typical of Tamiya, easy assembly and a nice fit. The only weak points are the wheel well not going back to the spar, and a prop that is too wide and tapered at the cuff (easy to correct). I used an Ultracast seat, and the sliding canopy is a spare from an Airfix kit (suitably reshaped). Wheel well was opened to the aft spar, brake lines added, and the radio, battery and drop tanks wired, and plumbed. Decals are the kits (works well with VERY hot water), and the paints are all Tamiya acrylic. Thanks for looking, Colin
  10. This is the early ICM (Tamiya knockoff) 1/48 P-51D Mustang, marked as "Miss Marilyn II". As and early ICM kit, there were a number of challenges, HUGE sink marks, short shots, incorrect detail parts copied from other kits, and a canopy that looked like it had been removed from the mold with a shovel! I used an Ultracast seat, and the sliding canopy is a spare from an Airfix kit (suitably reshaped). The front windscreen is from a scrapped Monogram P-51, that had to be reshaped, shortened, and polished to fit. Wheel well was opened to the aft spar, brake lines added, and the radio, battery and drop tanks wired, and plumbed. Decals are ancient Superscale (that tried to shatter on contact with water - to the point that some codes were masked and sprayed), and the paints are all Tamiya acrylic. Thanks for looking, Colin
  11. The P-47M I have started same days ago still needs time for the paint to harden. So I'm starting a new model, after my accident at home I have a lot of time for myself. The old Hasegawa model from 1992 has been with me for a long time. I simply can't dispose of old models and prefer to build these for the second row. This kit has been deprecated for Germany, but no problem for a model builder. I created the swastikas on the fuselage myself on clear decals.
  12. This is P-51B Mustang registration 43-27460 as she appeared when owned by Colonel Jacqueline Cochran. It was her first Mustang and was registered NX28388 and was used to set 4 air speed world records and appeared at multiple air races in the late 1940s. The combat record, if any is unknown but the serial number both before and after saw combat with the 361st Fighter Group and both were lost in action. Cochran bought the aircraft in August 1946 for 10 points and other considerations. Following her third place in the 1948 Bendix Air Race, she asked her friend and test pilot Sampson Held to ferry NX28388 back to California, however on route it suffered a catastrophic wing spar failure and crashed, killing Held. The model is the duel boxing from Hasegawa in 1/72, you get a second kit and decals for 'Thunderbird', also owned and flown by Cochran at one stage. The model is showing it's age a bit, with very shallow wheel wells and the landing gear seems a bit short. That said, it goes together well and the decals are excellent. For the air racer, they give you some extra sprues for what they call an Aeroproduct's propeller, however looking at pictures I think the Mustang was using an uncuffed Hamilton Standard, which unfortunately you don't get in the kit. I decided to use the kit supplied cuffed Hamilton Standard, because I know at one point it did use this prop and in one race she had propeller issues so it might have been changed after that. It's also worth noting that they do give you both slogans that were painted under the exhaust stacks and this is not mentioned in the instructions. I am unsure of when the motto was changed. Cochran mounted P-38 drop tanks under the wings to ferry the aircraft, but these are not supplied in the kit. Leave off the kit supplied hard points. Apart from this, the guns and ejector ports were filled over and the resin fin fillet was glued in place and sanded down to fit. I painted her overall Gunze gloss bright green straight from the bottle and applied 3 coats of future, 2 before and 1 after decals. I decided to weather her as she appear after a race with big black and white exhaust stains that extended down the fuselage. Now I have to get to building 'Thunderbird' in the blue.
  13. ThreeD-Wild Miniatures (link) is to release a (1/48th ?) 3D printed aircraft kit in 2024. Obviously a single engine fighter aircraft with a propeller. But what ? Source: https://www.facebook.com/groups/906471069393540/posts/24651795694434411/ V.P.
  14. KP will release different versions of P-51D/K in 1/72. https://www.modelarovo.cz/kovozavody-prostejov-azmodel-co-noveho-v-roce-2024/ It seems that everyone wants a piece of the Mustang pie. I doubt I will get any KP Mustangs, this year or any year.
  15. I rarely stick to plans, so don't hold your breath, but @Vesa Jussila's thread about plans for 2023 led me to think about dealing with some stalled projects. This thread will cover the models I'd started for the Mustang GB in 2021. 1. '69 Boss 429 Mustang. Based on the recent Revell 1969 Boss 302, which has its origins in the old Monogram 1/24 1970 Boss 429 tooling. Unfortunately, that means the body is rather dumpy, the rear quarter light window is the wrong shape and the whole front end is off, if an improvement over the previous Revell 428CJ. I sectioned the body and reshaped the side windows, using 1:1 photos and an AMT '69 Mustang annual kit as references. The engine is a Boss 429 from a JoHan Torino stock car. ] 2. '67 390 GT Mustamg This one has the best chance of a quick completion. It's the AMT '67 GT, mostly OOB with the 390 FE engine from an AMT '67 Mercury Cyclone. I 3. '65 Shelby GT350 The '80s Monogram kit... not terrible, but the proportions are a bit off, especially the front end which is somewhat blunt. I've started to reshape it and substituted some Revell tyres for the wholly inappropriate Michelin TRX (metric! 🤢) tyres that came with it. 4. '68 Shelby GT500 I originally built this one in the late '80s, replacing the engine bay and turret braces. I dug it out for the GB, intending to correct the grille and headlights, which AMT didn't really get right. This one probably needs the most work. 😐 So, now I have a place holder, I'll creep up on these when time allows.
  16. Hello everyone again. Mustang P-51B, pilot - Donald Beerbower What has been improved in the Academy set: Firstly, these are the landing gear bays. All manufacturers offer them in the wrong shape, because... plastic does not allow them to be cast in the required volume. The niches were completely cut out and built from scratch. The machine gun ports have been redesigned, arranged in a cascade and equipped with barrels made of syringe needles and metal tubes. The rear support was dismembered and also completely rebuilt using metal components. The rear support niche is also somewhat filled with parts. Oil and cooling radiators were made and filled with radiator niche parts. The main landing gear struts were also modified on our own - the shock absorber rods were replaced, and the two-link links were cut out. The cockpit was partially redone on our own, complemented by etching from Eduard. Mounted landing light, manufacturer - Elf, Navigation lights - pins made of drawn transparent sprue, painted with a mixture of futura and acrylic. Other additions include True Detail wheels, QuickBoost exhaust tips, and a Squadron vacuum canopy. The main identification marks are decals from KitsWorld, technical inscriptions are from Techmod. *Sorry for the automatic translation and thanks for watching.
  17. ’66 Shelby GT 350R (07716) 1:24 Carrera Revell Ford’s Pony Car was first introduced in 1964, and immediately struck a chord with the American car-buying public, claiming a place in motoring history as it did so. By 1966, not much had changed yet, including the size and weight of the car, making it one of the lightest from the whole lineage. The Shelby 350 was a modified Mustang, with more powerful engine, stiffer suspension and distinctive styling in any colour as long as it was white, making it a track-style car before that name was fashionable, also changing the name to capitalise on the reputation of the Shelby company. The first batch of the ’66 350s were based upon the Fastback chassis, and colours other than white were available, and over 1,300 were made, plus around 1,000 in the standard bodyshell. A small number of ‘special’ cars were given the R suffix to differentiate, as they were race-prepared, and not suitable for picking up a carton of milk and a pack of Lucky Strikes from the local 7-Eleven. These cars raced in the SCCA (Sports Car Club of America) Pro Racing series, including races at Laguna Seca and Riverside tracks. The Kit This is a reboxing with new decals of the 1985 tooling by Revell under the Monogram branding, which is backed up by the raised lettering on the underside of the interior tub of the model. The kit arrives in a shallow end-opening box, and inside are four sprues and the bodyshell in white styrene, another sprue that has been chrome-plated over white styrene, a small clear sprue, decal sheet, and instruction booklet that is printed in colour with profiles for the decal option to the rear. This is a special boxing that depicts a single car as it raced on two tracks with Walt Hane at the wheel on both occasions. This is an old kit, but has good detail, and time has been kind to the moulds, including a full engine, underside details and the spartan interior that had been stripped down in anticipation of racing. Construction begins with the engine, two parts for the block and transmission halves, adding multi-part detail inserts top and bottom, then fitting two cylinder-blocks and their rocker-covers, which have decals for the top, then accessorising it with alternator, serpentine belt, fan and manifolds, exhausting four cylinders per bank. The under-tray of the vehicle is then outfitted with the front axle with suspension moulded-in, twin sports exhausts that exit at the sides in front of the rear wheels, and the rear axle, which has ‘hi-tech’ leaf-springs and the drive-shaft moulded-in, then has a pair of dampers fixed between them and the chassis to reduce rebound, installing the engine between the chassis rails at the front, joining the down-pipes from the manifolds to the exhausts. The interior is begun by applying six dial decals to the instrument binnacle, and a further two to the smaller central binnacle, taking the time to remove the standard equipment details in the centre of the main dashboard, as no-one listens to music while they’re racing. The two binnacles are glued into position, fitting the steering column with stalks, and spacing the lightened steering wheel with a tapering extension, then the instructions have you switching to the other wheels, inserting the two hub sides from each side of the flexible black tyres, applying gold or white Firestone logos to them depending on which race you are modelling. After that diversion, the dash is inserted into the front of the interior tub on a pair of notches, and the angled gear shifter is fixed to the transmission tunnel before the rear seats are covered over by a blanking plate and two flashed-over holes are drilled in the flat area at the rear of the doors for later use. The solitary driver’s seat and a covered spare tyre are put in place behind the wheel and on the blanking plate at the rear respectively, and a three-part roll-cage is located on the two holes, and that has a fire-extinguisher moulded into one of the cross bars. The bodyshell is prepared by painting the roof liner dark grey and sanding away the logo moulded into the front arches, then the front and rear screens are popped in from within, adding a chromed rear-view mirror into a hole in the top of the windscreen, before the rear quarter-light cut-outs are covered over with blanking panels that are painted red. Another small moulded-in logo is removed from in front of the arch, although that would have been better done at the same time as the other, then the interior tub is glued into the shell, painting portions of the underside red, as some of it will be seen through the floor pan once the assemblies are joined. Before that however, the rear light clusters are painted as per the instructions and fitted on pegs into the rear of the car, then the chassis and bodywork are brought together, adding a pair of coil-over shocks in the front turrets, which you can paint red if you have steady hands. The wheels are snapped onto the axles in each corner, then the engine bay is painted black around the engine, so it is probably a good idea to paint that before you have the engine in the way, for the sake of your sanity. A dash pot is glued to the firewall, and a strut brace is fixed to the suspension turrets, then the interior front bulkhead with separate radiator is slotted into the front of the bay, jumping back (literally) to add the rear bumper and opener/badge in the centre of the boot. We’re back at the front to install the bumper and chromed radiator, adding chromed reflectors with clear lenses in front that have a fine mesh texture engraved on the rear. Two circular chrome side-lights are painted orange and inserted into the corners of the bumpers to complete the car’s distinctive ‘face’. The bonnet has some detail moulded into the underside, but you’ll need to remove the ejector-pin marks in between them, applying the two go-faster stripes after painting, and another decal that depicts a circular mesh vent over the stripes toward the rear. The air-box and radiator feeder-pipe are glued into the engine bay, and the bonnet can be slipped into position without glue to leave it mobile, adding a chromed stay that is supplied to prop it open, or you can lay it across the bay, dropping into two recesses in the bonnet sides. There are some additional decals applied in the bay, some to bulkheads, others for the ancillary parts that gives the area a little extra realism. Markings This is a special edition in all but name, as it has decals for two particular races that this car took part in, one at Riverside, the other at the world-famous Laguna Seca circuit, and while you’d expect the car to be almost identical for each race, you’d be mistaken, as there are some subtle differences, such as the colour of the Firestone logos and the colour of the driver names. There are also two styles of pony logo on the front grille, one with silver trim, the other with just the coloured stripes and the outline of the horse. Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Although the decal numbers are called out for the seatbelts on the instructions, they aren’t represented in the drawings, so in case you missed it, there is a full set of seatbelt decals to add extra detail. Conclusion This is an old kit, but other than the lack of outer runners and the copyright details giving it away, it’s not what you’d expect. There’s plenty of detail, and the body is well shaped. The instructions are a little odd in places the way they flit around, but taking some time to look them over should help avoid mistakes. Highly recommended. Carrera Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  18. In the Facebook comments about a future P-51H kit (Link), Modelsvit team has also announced that a new tool 1/48th North American F-82G Twin Mustang is also in the pipe line. Source: https://www.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2231688117100227&id=1854784001457309 V. P.
  19. North American P-51D Mustang, 411622 C-G4 'Nooky Booky IV', 357th Fighter Group, 362nd Fighter Squadron, RAF Leiston, 1944. Leonard K. Carson Subject; North-American P-51D (K specification), x6 .50 cals, long-range drop tanks. Manufacturer; Tamiya Kit number; 61040 Scale; 1/48 Aftermarket; Eduard Zoom P.E set and mask set. Paints; Exterior, AK Xtreme Metal Aluminium, Matt Aluminium, Dark Aluminium and Duraluminium. Tamiya LP11 Silver, AK Real Colour RC259 Olive Drab for the anti-glare, LP5 Semi-Gloss Black, RC267 RLM04 Gelb and LP7 Red on the spinner. Interior, RC262 US Interior Green, various Tamiya X and XF and Posca pens for detailing. Primer; Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Grey and XF1 Gloss Black for the metals. Varnish; AK Gauzy Shine Agent. Weathering; Flory Dark Dirt and Abteilung oils. Tamiya weathering palettes.
  20. Revell is to release in 2017-2018 a new tool 1/32nd North American P-51D Mustang kit - ref. 03944 Source: http://www.kitreviewsonline.de/revell-neuheiten-fuer-das-jahr-2017/ V.P.
  21. On holiday in North Yorkshire. NONE of my tools or paints etc. with me. Bought a Revell P51D Mustang model that comes with the brush, three paints, and cement. Had to get a craft knife, and also bought a pot of thinners. Let's see what I can do with so little!
  22. The first Swedish Mustang is a P-51B-7 du 354th FG interned on 13 may 1944. He is followed by another one in august, then by two D-5 this same month. These aircraft arrives at a time where Swedish AF is struggling to get some high performances fighters, and the government is in the process to make a deal US and/or UK authorities on the tune of fighters for internees, as there are more than 1000 Allied Airmen stranded in Sweden An agreement is finaly reached for a number of P-47, that would be designated J26, but in march 1945, last minute change for Mustangs for 50 ex-USAAF machines (4 already « delivered »!), bound to equip Flottilj 16 (F16) at Uppsala, deliveries starting from 10 april. They will still be J26. In 1946, 90 more are bought from USAAF, plus a further 30 for spare parts the next year. The last Sweedish Mustang will leave active service with the air force in 1954. 93 will be sold to Israel, Republican Dominique and Nicaragua. So here's my interpretation of Swedish J26 serial 26031 (ex-USAAF 44-72220), from Flottilj (escadre) F16, 2. Division (Escadron, casserole bleue) at Uppsala, The aircraft must have suffered an accident in june 47, as it was then used as a ground instruction airframe. It was one of only three J26 painted in camo. Tamiya kit looks good to me, very simple and easy to build. No difficulties, I had some, but they're of my own make . A quick note about the decals : The instruction sheet show clearly roundels in six positions, standard with J26 and other Swedish fighhters at the time. BUT... Xtradecal gives you only four ! By chance, a friend of mine stepped in, and gave me the last two I needed. Thanks Stéphane ! Hope you'll like it. And if by the way you've gott a better understanding of Swedish AF than me (not difficult at all!), feel free to add or correct.
  23. Maverick's P-51D Mustang 1:72 Airfix The North American P-51 Mustang is one of the most famous and easily-recognisable of Allied types to have served during the Second World War. It was originally designed to a British requirement for a low-altitude fighter, and because it was designed around the Alison V-1710 engine, it had limited performance at higher altitudes. This shortcoming was famously addressed by the marriage of North Americans airframe to the Rolls Royce Merlin aero engine. Once so equipped, the Mustang was able to take on Luftwaffe fighters on equal or better terms up to 15,000 feet. In common with later Spitfires, the D model of the Mustang employed a cut-down rear fuselage and a bubble canopy, giving pilots superb all-round vision. The outstanding feature of the aircraft was is range, which enabled Mustangs to escort bombers all the way to Berlin and back. This prompted the famous quote from Reichmarshal Herman Göring: "When I saw Mustangs over Berlin, I knew the jig was up." The Kit Airfix's Mustang has only been around now since 2012 and is a great little kit. The kit is part of Airfix's series one range and as such as a fairly simple kit, made up of just fifty three parts spread across two sprues of grey plastic and a single small clear sprue. The mouldings are clean and crisp and moulded detail looks good. The panel lines look pretty fine to me, but some will no doubt find them a little too deep. In my opinion they arent too broad though, so treatment with primer would seem to be the way to go here. The kit has been re-released a few times over the years and now again in a tie in with Paramount for the new Top Gun Film, which has been delayed on release due to the current situation. The cockpit is assembled on top of a large floor piece which also acts as the roof of the radiator tunnel. Onto this are added an instrument panel (with a decal for detail), a gun sight, control column and seat. Sidewalls and radio kit is moulded in place. The inner sides of the fuselage have some nice raised/recessed detail which helps to add a sense of realism to the cockpit. Overall impressions are very favourable, particularly for a kit in this scale and at this price point. If you want the airscrew to be moveable, you will have to assemble it before the fuselage halves have been joined. This will make it a bit of a nuisance to paint though, so I would recommend adding it later and fixing it in place. Whichever route you choose, once the fuselage halves are joined then you can add the wing. The lower wing is moulded as a single span, which will help you achieve the correct dihedral. The main gear bays are boxed in and feature some convincing structural details. The tail planes are moulded as solid pieces, but the rudder is a separate part, so you can finish it in a deflected position if you so desire. There are separate flaps too, which is a bonus. The Finishing details show that Airfix has put some care and attention into the design of this kit. The mouth of the radiator inlet is moulded as a separate part, saving you the trouble of cleaning up a visible seam. The cooling air exhaust is also a separate part and can be posed in either open or closed position. The undercarriage doors are detailed on the inside and the landing gear itself is also very nice. The tyres have a cross-cut tread and subtle flat spots moulded in place. Two drop tanks are provided to hang under the wings. Two canopies are provided, but only the bulged version is used for the decal option supplied with this kit. The frame of the rear canopy is a separate part too, and of course the canopy can be posed in open or closed position. Decals As this is a tie in only one set of markings is included, those for the aircraft Maverick owns in the film. The decal sheet is printed by Cartograf and includes a full range of stencils. Conclusion This is a neat little kit and Im very glad that Airfix took the decision to re-release it. The level of detail is surprisingly good for the scale and price, and it looks as though this should build up into an excellent model. Recommended if you want to model the Mustang from the film, or just want another to add to your stash. Review sample courtesy of
  24. As promised over on the build thread HERE Some more pictures of the finished beast: Glad to have finally added an A-36A to the fleet! Ed
  25. HI everyone!🙂 this is my 1/25 AMT '67 shelby GT-350 this kit got some issues..I try to build it as good as I could.. not perfect...but I am happy with this result.. hope you guys like it!🙂
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