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Found 19 results

  1. Well its time for a new project! This is one I've had in mind for a while, I'm an ex biker and love motorbikes so have always wanted to do a sci fi build based around a motorbike model. The motorbike kit I'm playing about with is a 1/12 Tamiya ducati 888 and I want it to look pretty sleek so I'm going to go with a very glossy race bike finish. Plan is to keep it looking pretty much how it does, obviously its going to have no front wheel/forks and no swingarm on the back, I dont want to muck about with the fairing much to make it easier to get it all smooth and nice for high gloss finish. So where the swingarm was there will be an engine sticking out and at the back on the parts where the exhausts attach I'll put some small fins on. For the rider she is going to be mostly sculpted, but I'm going for an android so it will be along the lines of her face will be a panel on her head with a lot of metal at the back. Want to use plenty of tubing and spring tubes so she'll be leaning a bit more towards the robot side of things, and she'll be a punk so bright pink mohawk and an attitude! The pose I'm going for is to help aid the jet bike bike look by not giving it any support, it will be held up by her leg to give the impression of hovering. I was going to have her sitting on it with one leg down, but thats no fun, so instead she will be in the middle of a hard 180 turn with one foot on the ground as it skids round. To help with the sense of motion there will be a puddle on the floor with a small bow wave coming from her foot to look as though she has slid through it. Also as she looks back as the bike turns she will also have one arm up firing a gun behind her because I basically want it to seem as though she is being chased but has turned the tables on the people chasing. Its all a bit hard to explain but it will all become clear as I go (hopefully!) so without further a do the first think I'm tackling is the jet bike so I pulled out the kit and started cutting out the fairing, frame and engine bits to get them together and tidy IMG_20221006_132327390 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20221006_132432654 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20221006_135200870 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Your really not going to see much of the engine at all, especially as the open end where I'll be putting engines of some description, so I got it all together to paint in one piece for speed, oh and only mod to the frame so far is I've cut off the two small exhaust brackets from the end as they're not needed, exhausts are being left off too. IMG_20221007_141617964 by Nick Frost, on Flickr So got those bits primed IMG_20221007_142327200 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Sprayed the engine with alclad airframe aluminium as a base coat and used some tamiya acrylic white on the frame bits. IMG_20221008_161100012 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20221008_161112170 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Whilst that was drying I turned to the fairing to start getting that together and filled. IMG_20221008_161918357 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20221008_162426157 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20221009_154652644 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20221011_155035375 by Nick Frost, on Flickr This was primed and then of course more sanding! IMG_20221014_163209549 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Switched back to the engine and used some enamels to get some detail on it. IMG_20221017_191129379 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Got the frame together and realised I missed a bit, the rear suspension is not needed as there's no swingarm but I do want the top part that holds the spring in place, just because its another detail to have in there and it also helps connect/stabilise the two frame halves, which suits me fine because as you can see below I really wasn't happy with how the white looked so it would have needed more painting anyway. IMG_20221017_193444434 by Nick Frost, on Flickr And speaking of paint just want to take a second to explain how I'm approaching the paint work. Now I'm not a glossy finish guy, I'm a matt paint heavy weathering guy, so this is all a bit new to me; so I looked up how car modellers approach a nice realistic glossy finish on cars. So what I'll be doing is after priming I'll give it a rub down with a 4000 grit micromesh pad to get it smooth, and I have also switched to Mr Color laquer paints to get a smooth glossy finish (and more vibrant colours) which will then be given a couple of clear coats and finally will be polished to a high sheen with tamiyas polishing compounds. Oh and for the colour scheme I'm going for a light blue with yellow striping, so I'll spray the whole thing yellow so I can mask off the stripes then spray it a light blue. The rear fairing and petrol tank are molded in one piece, and this had some fine mould marks so I rubbed it all over with a 3600 micromesh pad then hit it with primer which as I stated above was rubbed down with a 4000 grit pad. IMG_20221017_194151823 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20221017_194657370 by Nick Frost, on Flickr The below has had 2 coats of the yellow gloss Mr Color paint. IMG_20221019_195311014 by Nick Frost, on Flickr I have to say, I am completely in love with Mr Color paints. They go down like a dream, the colour is so bright and wow over the rubbed down primer it has already achieved a crazy smooth finish. So I primed and did the same thing for the main fairing part. IMG_20221019_195304642 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20221019_195854672 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Then I reprimed the frame, and sprayed it this time with Mr Color white and man it came out so much stronger white in just one spray session. IMG_20221019_195902546 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20221020_200436636 by Nick Frost, on Flickr And whilst I was spraying white I decided I want a white detail at the bottom of the fairing so I masked off and sprayed that too, IMG_20221020_194645033 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20221020_200445464 by Nick Frost, on Flickr And now its completely up to date with where I am. Next Up I'll remove the masking tape when dry and start to plan out how I want my stripe details to look so I can mask it off and spray the blue. Thanks for looking, more soon
  2. Manufacturer: Heller and Nagano. Aftermarket: None used. Paints: Molotow chrome, LP-38, LP-3, Mr Color Aqueous 63 and 2K clear. Weathering: Flory Models grey, Flory Models dark dirt wash, 502 oils and AK pigments. Link to build thread: Work In Progress of the Mad Max Jim Goose's MFP Police pursuit bike. Well, here we are guys, pulling a wheelie across the Greeble / kit bash finishing line. This is an iconic movie bike, lots of real-life replicas are around of this bike, body work and fairings are still available from Japan. In fact, the fairing is the same one that was fitted to the Toecutters Kwaka. It's been a challenging project, but I loved the whole process, it will take pride of place in my model bike collection that's for sure. I was not aware until well into the build that the movie bike had rear set race style rider foot pegs and feet controls, so I had to modify the kit parts, only took 30 minutes or so to knock up something that looked convincing. I have plans to use the left-over kit parts in the future for another bike-based kit bash that's of a real-life Honda prototype from the early 70's, but that's for another day. Thanks for all the encouragement during this build, it really helped to keep the mojo on the boil.
  3. Hi folks, I am going to try and convert these three 1/8 bike kits into Jim Goose's MFP Police pursuit bike from Mad Max the original movie. I will be taking the fairing from the Honda CB950 and grafting it to the top half of the Heller Endurance racer fairing. The Kawasaki 750 kit will be providing the fuel tank, side panels and front mudguard. The seat unit will have to be modified to give a more accurate shape to the movie bike as well as the seat. I will have to make up the decals. Should be a fun build, "See you on the road!”
  4. Here's another from my pen of excruciatingly long builds. This one is so long that I can't actually remember when it was started - 5, 6 years? It's almost been finished once only for me to realise the body colour wasn't accurate. So, stripped and resprayed with Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminium and a clear coat of Tamiya TS-13 Clear. Buffed with Micro Mesh polishing cloths (4000 up to 12000) and finished with all three grades of Tamiya polishing compounds. Some very light weathering, mostly with AK Interactive 'Dark'. This model is boxed as a Protar 'SWIFT' model and it was only the other day that I discovered that Protar released these as 'easier' for construction and less amount of parts. The moulding is good... although the engine block suffers perhaps with the usual Protar softness. I have done a good deal of super detailing, wiring, plumbing and more scratch building on this model than i've ever done before. Carbon decals from both Model Factory Hiro (exhausts) and Studio 27 (front mudguard) replace the Protar efforts which, by the way, are HUGE in pattern. As I destroyed the original 'Senna' markings I had some others made, more about them in another post of mine. I know, the senna markings are missing on this side. I'm waiting for some further bespoke ones to arrive.
  5. Hi and welcome to my next project this is my second model kit build and first bike. I am a big Honda fan but i don't know much about there bikes but i liked the look of this one and thought i would try it. I have nearly finished the corvette i have been working on. Just got the rear glass to tint and a cut polish and wax of the clearcoat and final assembly on that to do so while i wait for the paint for the glass and the clear coat to cure i thought i would make a start. so far i have built most of the engine removed any seam lines and mold lines. It was quite a simple fun experience and painted it with UMP gray primer. The engine and cylinder heads went together really well and easily i have decided to paint it in three main sections to try and make it easier to get all the small spaces and awkward sections. The detail on these parts is amazing there's so many nice small parts that really make the engine pop. it seems a shame to hide all that detailing. I have ordered some small magnets which I will try and use to fit the fairings to the frame on my second build it might be biting of more than i can chew but I really don't want to hide all the hard work I'm going to put in on the build. While i was spraying the primer i decided to spray up a bunch of spoons so i can test paints before i pick colors to make sure I'm happy with any custom paints.
  6. Hi All, The rule is as simple as this: If it's a motorbike, car or truck, it's in (including AFVs) !! Sport, Rally, Road, Commercial, Recreational, Old, New, Military, Public; the list is endless. wimbledon99 (Co-Host ) Black Knight Col. (Co-Host ) Angus Tura Redstaff spaddad Hockeyboy76 Knight_Flyer nimrod54 Arniec vppelt68 Mancunian airman Dazzio CliffB Sgt.Squarehead Graham77 Hewy Paul821 richellis Wonkey Donkey helios16v Romeo Delta PlaStix trickyrich milktrip Threadbear modelling minion krow113 specky badger JeroenS
  7. I really enjoyed this really intricate to build - loads of detail - but exceptionally well-made kit. Definitely worth the money
  8. My first post so be gentle 🙂 This model was a pleasure to build, and as ever learning as I go .. so yes loads of mistakes... but in the end quite pleased with the results. I need to get better at taking the photos as all the rest look awful.. will work on that and post some new ones once I figure it out.
  9. Well now! I had this: ..and this...: and - with a little imagination - ended up with this: I present to you - Feline Female! I hope you like it (couldn't call her - you know what - but Feline Female - or FF for short - should be OK?) Cheers Hans J
  10. The latest in my 'lockdown'-series. Actually it's part 1 of 2, but you'll have to wait a bit to see the full concept. This is the Heller 1/24 Honda NSR 500cc racer, but I build it as a custombike. First up is the original: And this is my version: It's not a big model!: Cheers for now Hans J
  11. Another fun build, and one of my favorites. As always I made plenty of mistakes, but learning more each time. Most of the Tamiya kits are excellent quality, which makes them fun to build. The finished article 🙂 I'm really pleased I used the carbon fiber decals, and then a coat of clear Tamiya gloss over the top, as it really makes them pop. I used some Top Studio rivets 0.9 mm round head and a pin drill to give an authentic look.... very fiddly but worth it. With so much decal-ing the clear coat was essential... I get most nervous doing this final part as I've messed up a few models when clear coating. Looking forward to comments and tips. Thanks for looking.
  12. BMW R75 Escaping from the Falaise Pocket ISBN: 9780993564666 AFV Modeller via Casemate UK This book is an education for us mere mortal modellers as to what can be achieved with massive amounts of skill and ingenuity. The theme is to recreate a picture from the closing days of WWII that depicted four German soldiers riding a heavily laden BMW R75 motorcycle and sidecar in an attempt to escape through the gap left by the enclosing Allied forces that were to create the Falaise Pocket, encircling a large number of Axis forces after the Allies broke out from the Normandy beachhead and moved through France toward Germany and ultimately victory. The author, Robert Doepp is an award-winning modeller, and this is evident on every page of the book, so be prepared to spend most of your time with your jaw dropped wide open, drooling gently in awe of the skills demonstrated here. I know some modellers are discouraged by exceptional modelling, but if you treat this book as a level of skill to aspire to by making little improvements to every successive model you make, you’ll soon be making progress. It is a comprehensive book that runs to 111 genuine pages with a blank one at the end for obvious reasons, and is perfect bound in a matt-finished card cover. It is broken down into chapters as follows: Introduction Construction Painting Figures Figure Painting Base Wartime Restored Gallery It begins with some history of the author, and covers some of the events that both inspired and led up to the germination of this project in Robert’s motorcycle-loving mind. There are some gorgeous photographs of previous projects, plus a few shots of the finished model R75 against the photo that it is based upon. It also discusses the base kit for the bike, which is a rather old 1:9 kit from ESCI/Revell that brought many additional tasks along with it in order to make the model more accurate. The work on display is truly staggering, from the genuine spoked wheels to the individually cut and laminated cooling vanes on the engine, it offers everyone a masterclass on how to improve their own models, and at the very least lodge some ideas in the deepest recesses of your mind that will help you one day when you have a scratch building or repair issue with one of your models. The painting of the bike is almost as amazing as the construction, showing how much thought has been put into it, and how the model was broken down into subassemblies during the build to enable painting and weathering to proceed smoothly. The figures are all built up using armatures that are custom made by the author, and at 1:9 scale they’re fairly large. The basic shapes are determined then fleshed out with tubular shapes and extremities. How to sculpt faces is just one of the useful techniques discussed. Robert is clearly highly skilled as a sculptor, which is evidenced by the sheer volume of detail down to the stitching of the material sculpted into each figure. They are each individually dressed to match their photo, and custom parts are made up from scratch, even down to the small differences between the standard stahlhelm and the Fallschirmjäger pudding basin, with one of the crew wearing a hybrid that must have been specifically tooled to meet the requirements of its wearer for unknown reasons. The figures are painted in great detail both in the book and for the project, with attention paid to achieving a realistic camouflage pattern by using references of the real thing to guide you. Face painting is also studied, and with that the sub-assembled figures are put into position. An interlude shows the construction of the base, which has a muddy road bordered by a double line of cobbles as textural relief. The completed model is placed on the base, after a section devoted to some very interesting pictures of various bikes during WWII, a gallery of the finished model is shown to round things off. Conclusion Robert Doepp is most definitely one of the few genius modellers that excel beyond all imagination, and is an inspiration to us all. The book is full of lavish photography and detailed explanations of the techniques used, so even if we can absorb a fraction of what’s there, we should benefit immensely. Highly recommended. At time of writing, this volume is on offer at Casemate, and you can visit by clicking below Review sample courtesy of
  13. So this was my first ever bike build, and must admit I was really looking forward to it. But things didnt start well, the paint I was using which was a Halfords Automotive rattle can, just didnt sit well and so I had to strip, sand and start again....I later discovered I hadnt shaken the can well enough. So I decided to pack the kit away, as I had a few other builds and come back to it later. And after a few weeks I picked the kit up again, and it just all fell together. I had a couple of issues with the decals, but nothing a bit of touch up paint would clear up. I ended up absolutely loving this build, and really pleased with the end result, so much so I have just brought another couple of bike builds. Anyway I hope you enjoy.
  14. Revell 1:12 Honda CBX 400F Motorcycle The Honda CBX 400F was produced from 1981 it has a 4 inline producing 48hp, it has aluminium swingarms, and suspension to save weight, with disc brakes to slow it down. It is a popular bike and sold well for Honda before this model was discontinued in 1984. Revell have produced this bike kit in 1:12, a popular scale for Bike builders with this kit being Revell Level 5 as its classed as a complex kit. The kit is laid out over 6 sprues and includes 2 rubber tyres and some soft rubber hose. The instructions are the new style type, and they are clear and easy to follow with paints referenced back to the Revell paint range. The parts are vey crisp and there is no flash or mould lines visible on the review sample. You get 2 chrome sprues, and they are nice and not too shiny. The frame and other parts are done in black; engine is in grey and the body is white. A small clear sprue includes the lights and glass for the dials. Construction starts with the 4 inline engine, the parts have nice surface details and will give a good representation of the engine. The rubber hose is cut to length and added to the engine to represent fuel and oil lines around the block. Looking at reference photos the engine is a realistic part, and you can add HT leads and other wiring to give a very detailed model. I would add some more detail here as the fairings on this bike don’t cover the engine so its visible on the model. The wheels are on the chrome sprue and I would keep the chrome so cut away with care. The wheels are in 2 parts with the axle sandwiched between the 2 parts on the front wheel, with the dampers added next. The rear swingarm is a single part, and the back wheel is added with the chain and brake hub. The engine is sandwiched between the frames with the stand and rear swing arm/ wheel assembly. I would probably build and detail the engine, before building the frame I would paint that and all the ancillary parts before assembling the bike to allow detail painting and extra detailing like wiring. The exhausts are chrome, but they join along the length top and bottom so will have a join line that will need work, this is a shame as the real bike has nice polished pipes. The bodywork can be painted gloss whit as the red is all included as decals, the decals are as expected from Revell, very nice except the UK registration plate is wrong and should read A400 HCB. I would go online and get a replacement made up. This is a nice detailed model from Revell, and can give a detailed build from the box, but leaves scope for some super detailing if wanted. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  15. Well, things are rattling along and I was having a think about possible corners of the wide Airfix range which we haven't covered as yet - I know, Motorbikes. How about the Honda CB450 from 1968 in a 1978 boxing? - bought specially for this GB and a bit more cost effective that the one Ariel Arrow kit currently for sale on a well known auction website. Here are the sprues - the kit has been ever so slightly started with the engine cylinders glued to the block and one tyre assembled - thankfully comes in under the 25% rule. Paint will be re-done anyway. I've never built a motorbike kit or even owned a real one so this will be interesting. I can see that the chain drive is broken and there appears to be a 'mystery' seat included. All you bikers out there can give me a few hints on how to really decorate this machine!
  16. Okay - here goes - first RFI (after a colossal lurking time), first motorbike, first commission build and first time using OneDrive....what could possibly go wrong?! Build this in around 24 hours over a 3 month period as a favour for chum at work - who has now very nearly finished his 1:1 scale version. Naturally his real one is showroom fresh and mine is a little more tatty... Let's hope this photo linking malarkey works... I really enjoyed the build - great quality for an early 70's moulding by Esci. There was a point in there where I felt like I needed 3 perfectly coordinated child-sized hands to prise the frame apart to insert the rear wheel and align & glue various bits and bobs but I got through it... Most importantly the customer is happy!
  17. This is the Italeri 1/9 scale WLA, It's a nice enough kit, but handle it gently, I found it to be a bit fragile, even for a model!
  18. Hi This is a conversion of the Revell CB750 kit to a CB750KZ and is the first motorcycle conversion that I have attempted. I used to own one when I was younger and it was my pride and joy but, alas, I sold it so that I could get married (yep, it was worth it - but I kept all my gear just in case). It is not perfect by any means but gave me ideas for when I have another go at some point. Those in the know will notice that the real one had twin exhausts each side but I was not clever enough to attempt scratch building those yet. And, for a change, I did not add any lights........... For more pictures please click on this link: More Photos Kevin
  19. Making this lovely little bike for a diorama, however I have gone to an effort to improve it. http://www.britmodeller.net/reviews/airfix/72/resupply/1.jpg Original molding. Seeing as the bike was so nice anyway I decided to go to town on it and scratch build some detail. As well as cut away all the extra plastic that doesn't need to be there and I improved the stand and mudguards. I also cut away the big ugly "springs" the airfix mold offered and scratch built my own. Added paniers and a rear seat Ben.
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