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Found 17 results

  1. I've almost completed my first model in over 25 years, the SH Kittyhawk 1a (just need to add the final pre-painted bits and pieces and open canopy) and my next project will be either a Spitfire (Eduard VIII) or Seafire (Sword IIc) so looking for some help please. I have raised this question in the Modelling Tips section previously but with limited response so hopefully this may have more joy as the main area I struggled with after all these years was the application of the camouflage scheme. This took for ever to do using thin rolled pieces of blu tak to mark out the scheme and the
  2. Does anyone have suggestions on the best, by which I mean simplest, method to mask off the 2nd/final camouflage colour once the first colour has been applied please? In this scale it's a bit daunting so all methods/suggestions very much welcomed as I'm about to apply the second colour this week. In the past I've tried using thin ribbons of blu-tac to mark out the scheme and then applied masking tape to fill in the shapes but is there a better/simpler way of doing it, for example would micro-mask do the job perhaps? Regards Colin.
  3. A brace in May. Sounds like I nipped up to the grouse moors a bit early, doesn't it? Actually, it's the two models I completed in my own inimitable cack handed style in the month. Here they are Brengun's 1/48 OHKA, with some fetching (but still tiny) PE, brush painted in tamiya IJN grey, except the trolley it's on is in steel. The hasegawa P-47 egg plane is OOB, no add ons, cowling painted in Hycote aerosol yellow and body in halfords black primer then halfords nissan silver top coat. I saw someone mentiom that as a good pai
  4. Hello everyone. This is more a question than a review. Since coming back to the modeling world after a thirty plus year absence, I am still trying to build my arsenal of tools to make life easier for me. Early on, I kept reading about a product called Blu Tack, and I had no clue what that was. Then curiosity got the better of me and I finally asked someone to explain what the product was, it's uses and where I might find it online, since I reside in the Philippines. One problem with my location is shipping. Anything that I can't find locally, I have to order from china/HK most of t
  5. Evening all! So it has come to masking my Airfix Dornier Do17 and all has gone well except for the dome shape underneath the airframe just before the bomb bay. As said, it is dome shaped and I really have no idea how I should takle it. Any suggestions? Happy modelling! Adam
  6. Hey, I was looking at the Zvezda Superjet kit and started wondering how would I go about painting the curved cheat line near the tail, on the Aeroflot livery. As you can see there is a curved red line done with decals separating the blue and silver areas. How would I mask that curve? I was thinking of photocopying the decals sheet then cut masking tape along the red decal line and apply to the model. Would that work? Is there a better, easier way? Many thanks in advance! Cristian
  7. New pre-cut vinyl paint masks now available to order (all 1/72nd): TBM-012 - De Havilland DH 69 Dragon Rapide (Heller/Airfix) TBM-013 - De Havilland Canada DHC-3 Otter (Hobbycraft) TBM-014 - Lockheed 1049 Super Constellation (Heller/Airfix) TBM-015 - Beech C-45 Expeditor (Hobbycraft) More masks and resin items coming soon. Andy
  8. Looking for a bit of guidance and tips on how best to mark of a nose cone requiring a different colour paint, particularly as in my Tornado, when the paint change doesn't follow panel lines! I tried using a rubber washer which when I finally managed to get it properly in place was OK, but didn't give the hard edge wanted. Tried to cut a circular hole in a piece of plasticard which was better, but again didn't get a hard enough edge as the nose isn't properly circular. Next was masking off the soft edge a bit to tidy up, but even with curve tape was far from satisfa
  9. Hi all, I think I've set myself a bit of a tester this time! I've got the Airfix Sea King HC4 to have a go at and in a moment of madness I asked Mrs Wasacop which version I should do--all green or the green/white camo? No prizes for guessing which one she went for (and to be fair I agree with her)-- you got it the green/white one! My question to those who know about these things is how much would I have to enlarge a scan of the painting guide to make some masks for this bad boy? Thanking you all in advance for any help on this one, Hilly
  10. Hi everyone, Does anyone have any experience with liquid mask for masking plastic windows? I'll soon start painting my Revell Enterprise NCC1701 1/600 model and it has lots of plastic windows that I will need to cover. I'm new to modelling and this is my first model so I'm very nervous about the painting phase. There are no instructions on the bottle and I've struggled to find much in the way of specific and useful info on the web. I gather that the liquid turns a clear blue colour when dry, and the bottle says "don't leave on for a long time" without saying what a
  11. Hi all, For masking when airbrushing I have used a number of the usual camo techniques - paper masks, white bluetack worms, hand spraying, etc. I prefer the paper masks that I create using 3-view drawings references etc but getting them adhered to the model adequately is an issue for me. Often the depth of the worms (or looped Tamiya tape) is variable and I then get some "blow" under some of the edges. I wonder if there is a product out in the market that has the adhesive qualities of Tamiya tape but is a roil instead of flat tape. What I am thinking is a 2mm(?) worm on a roll th
  12. Wasn't sure where to chuck this query so mods feel free to move it if you need to. I was reading through someone's thread a few weeks ago that happened to have a very good explanation of how to use kit decals as a guide to make masking templates for painting. I thought this was very useful and intended to note how it was done.....but I didn't......and now I cannot remember who or where the post was! Can anyone offer any advice or suggestions on how to go about this? I'm looking to create templates for the black exhaust areas and fuselage handhold area's on the sides of my Seaking HC.4 rathe
  13. I'm building one of the new Airfix AV-8As, and the camouflage pattern carries over to the underside of the wing. The wing leading edge is no trouble to mask, but the wingtip is. There is no convenient panel line to follow, and winging it freehand (sorry) is bound to end in tears. Then the flash of inspiration: Get some 8mm Tamiya tape and put it on the underside of the wing lined up with the outboard outrigger fairing on one edge- Leave some excess on the wing trailing edge. Trim the excess tape from the wingtip. Use the trailing edge excess as a tab to peel the tape off gently. Reapply the
  14. Hi, i'd like an advice or your tips / tricks on how to mask complex curves on airliners bodies, see here below. How to make the masking tape horizontal and nicely elyptical? Many thanks for your tips!
  15. Hello everyone I'm having the same persistent problem with my latest builds, and I'm getting very irritated! On each occasion, I've used either an Eduard or E-Z pre cut mask on the canopy that has already had the Klear treatment. Then it gets the normal interior colour followed by the exterior colour, usually a couple of coats of the latter. Paints used are Xtracolor enamels, Humbrol enamels and Xtracrylix acrylics (not used together, of course). When it's finally time to unmask the said canopy (which is, naturally, at the end of the build), I find that some of the frames have ragged edg
  16. I think I have made an important discovery about the use of Alclad. I don't think this has been commented on before as I did do a quick, but not exhaustive, search. I have been using various colours of Alclad recently and had a lot of problems with Tamiya masking tape pulling the Alclad off when demasking. There is also a related thread here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234926778-whats-the-best-thing-to-seal-alclad-before-masking/?hl=alclad What I have found is that Alclad, although touch drying almost instantly, needs an extended cure period to fully harden up, I th
  17. Hi all, new to the forum so apologies if this is in the wrong section. I have recently taken up modelling after a 15 year break and things have certainly moved on in that time. I used to be a pant brush man but decided to take the plunge and buy an airbrush which I am very pleased with, especially the results. Problem I have is I recently primed a model using Vallejo surface primer and after 24 hours I masked off an area for painting. Upon removal of the tape it also removed a large portion of the primer layer. Prior to priming I washed the kit in soapy water to remove any release residue
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