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Found 18 results

  1. Hi All, While I have this burst of energy, I thought I would try to complete as many as I could... Another one that I have resurrected from the pile-of-doom. This Is the original Tamiya XJR-9. I have has this one for a very long time. the box top: The engine: And the rear suspension, primed:
  2. Here is my latest creation, a 1/20(ish) Ferrari 330 P4. All carved from one solid piece of beech, with a few walnut accents and finished with whatever leftover varnish I had in the garage. Took about 2 months
  3. First one of 2020: it's Starter's 1/43 kit of the 1993 Toyota 93C-V, as driven by George Fouché, Eje Elgh and Steven Andskar at Le Mans that year. I bought this on a whim without realising it was driven by this trio, all of whom I've had the great pleasure to meet (and get autographs from). So sort-of a personal link without realising it.
  4. Apart from the wheels, which I used the hobby design M3 dtm wheel set, it's stock. A pretty nice kit and fun to build.
  5. Hi Everyone, i have seen the Ford GT Le Mans from Revell and it has a lot of issues (as any Revell kit). It has awful plastics, not so good details, thickness (on the rear diffuser wings in particular), and wheels too small. Then i saw Tamiya will release a road version of the same car. Detail and precision we all know that will be top notch, as usual (it costs almost twice the price..). I am here wondering if, in you opinion, there could be a chance that Tamiya will release a Le Mans version too. And if someone has Revell kit can make a wip? Thanks and regards
  6. Hi folks Another day, another model This months exercise in sawdust making is the recreation of the best looking car ever to have been built (you may disagree, but you are wrong*) the Aston Martin DBR1 Le Mans winner from 1956. I remember as a young boy in the 70s being read bedtime stories by my Grandma from a book written in the jingoistic style of the 50s of the exploits of a plucky British driver in a car that was clearly a DBR1 overcoming the dastardly exploits of Baron Otto von Stereotype in a 300SLR and Count Lucio di Spicable in a 250TR, which meant that for me a Le Mans car was an Aston Martin. Anyway, nostalgia aside, I am attempting to recreate the curves of the car by hand from a block of limewood and will be trying to make wire wheels , also by hand, from plastic pipe and guitar strings (the car will have standard British tuning, none of this foreign rubbish). This build was inspired by @albergman's ebony Jaguar, but won't be quite as impressive due to a skills deficit and a simpler choice of wood. *special exemption for anyone saying Lamborghini Miura Starting point Ignore the rough cut lump of pine, that was just practice with my new chisels Templates:
  7. 2017 Ford GT 1:24 Revell The original Ford GT was an iconic racing car from the 60s that ended the company's lack of success at Le Mans that had lasted for many years. As a concept car the thoroughly modern GT, which we'll call the first generation was developed into a road car in the mid 2000s, with Jeremy Clarkson famously regretting his purchase due to some pretty serious reliability issues with his, which ended with the return of the car and his money. It was always planned to be a low production run, with some cars changing hands well above sticker-price until production ceased in 2007. A new generation was announced in 2015, with a sleeker more modern bodyshell that owes less to its heritage than the first generation, and production beginning the following year in Ontario, outputting one vehicle per day. It can rocket to 60mph in a breath-taking 2.8 seconds, with 100 coming up less than 4 seconds later, but if you have to ask about the fuel economy, this isn't the car for you. Ford have also returned to Le Mans with this car (although not too successfully in 2018), with carbon fibre helping to reduce weight, and ultra-thin gorilla glass used to reduce the weight of the glazing, allowing the 3.5L engine to put its 650hp to good use. You'll need a pretty fat wallet to afford one, at around $400,000 before you start adding your customisations, so a model kit is about as close as most of us will ever get to owning one. The Kit Revell's Easy Click system is employed on this kit, opening up the market to kids, non-modellers and modellers alike who just want to own a replica of this road-going monster, without spending months painting and detailing it. As you would expect, the part count is a friendly 27 pieces, and everything is supplied either pre-painted or moulded in the correct shade for its purpose, requiring minimal removal from sprues. The box is standard Revell end-opening, with a stylised picture of the model zooming down the track it has been PhotoShopped onto. Inside are two outer bags that have been taped tightly to prevent chaffing, and inside are more bags for the components by colour or theme. Inside the instruction booklet is a set of decals and also a cut-down set of stickers for those builders that really don't want to get involved in the modelling aspect of the kit. It is a chassis and interior only kit, with a flat floorpan, an impression of the V6 EcoBoost engine in the rear of the interior, and enough detail to give the impression of the rest. The bodyshell is moulded in a metallic blue that has tiny silver flakes suspended in the styrene, and has a reasonable lustre for an unpainted model. The interior is in a dark grey, the wheels a nice aluminium shade, and the tyres are a soft rubbery-feeling plastic that mimics the look of the real thing. Construction shouldn't take long, but if you are wanting a little more realism, there are colours called out as you progress for spot-painting the engine and interior parts that weren't economical to paint at the factory. Decals or stickers are also called out as you go through the build too. It begins with the interior tub, which has the headlight cluster moulded-in, as well as the engine compartment, both of which are to be spot-painted with metallic, and a few decals or stickers to improve realism. The seats should be two-tone, and fit into the rear of the passenger compartment, after removing four extra sprue-traps that are there to prevent short-shots in the parts. The dash is a single part, with the steering wheel inserted into the left, and a bunch of decals/stickers used for the instruments, after which it is installed across the front of the cab. Moving onto the bodyshell, the front light glazing is carrier on a single part that has a slightly cloudy look that should disappear when it is fitted, and should show off any detail painting you have done in the light body. This fits onto a lug in the underside of the bonnet/hood. The main glazing is very flexible, and it too fits into the shell from the inside, reusing the front lug, and another at the rear to keep it in place. The side windows remain unglazed to allow a good view into the cab. The interior fits into the bodyshell, and the four wheels are shod with their rubber parts, then steel rods are threaded through the running gear, which have the basics of the brake discs at each end to give a view through the spokes after you have pushed the wheels into place. These two fit into slots in the floor pan, and the body is held in place by a pair of black pins that push through from the underside of the floor pan. The addition of the wing mirrors and rear light clusters finish off the build, and the last two pages of the booklet show where the remaining decals/stickers go on the wheels, arches, bonnet and rear of the car. Markings The car can be left unpainted due to its self-coloured nature, with paint optional for parts of the interior, lights and the exhausts if you feel up to it. The decal options are more varied than the stickers, which only have one number plate from Michigan US or a generic GT show-plate instead. The decal sheet also provides plates for Germany, the UK, Netherlands, Switzerland, Italy, France, Belgium, Austria and Russia, which should keep their main markets happy. The plates are applied by cutting out the decals and sticking them directly to the model, without getting them wet, which might upset some of the modeller-y people, but a quick dip into the styrene sheet will result in a proper backing for the decal if you so wish it and aren't worried about them getting knocked off during play. Decals will of course give the best finish, but it is good that those with less patience and modelling skill also get the stickers for speed and ease. Conclusion It's not a highly detailed museum quality replica, but it was never intended to be. What it does is allows non-modellers or young people to build their own model of this amazing-looking Ford, putting as much or as little effort into it as they please. It's a great introduction to modelling that could tempt people into doing more, or it can be seen for what it is, a nice rendition of a lovely car in one of the dominant scales for car models. I put this together in the spirit that it was intended (i.e. fairly quickly & with a paint brush) as a break from a boring task I was doing, and it hit the spot Pics below in the next post Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  8. Tamiya kit, built straight from the box - enjoyed every moment of it, fantastic kit. Please feel free to make any comment, criticism or ask any questions. Ian.
  9. Bought this on impulse from Malcolm Rawlings (Kitfinger) a couple of weeks ago - started it as soon as it was delivered !! So with two sessions I'm well in to the (fantastic) engine & transmission sub assembly, lots of pre-painting needed but this is a wonderful kit and not too far away from my usual NASCAR comfort zone. Feel free to make any comments, criticism or ask any questions. Thanks for taking the time to look, more soon. Ian.
  10. Just finished this after a great deal of work: it's Starter's 1/43 Bussi Racing Rondeau M382 from the 1985 Le Mans 24 Hours. Driven by Jean-Claude Justice, Bruno Sotty and Patrick Oudet, it qualified 34th and finished 18th. This car, chassis #003, competed in five Le Mans 24 Hours, from 1982 through to 1986. The kit is probably the oldest Starter kit I've made, dating from 1983 and with revised decals to depict the 1985 car. It took a lot of time to get its pebbly surface and wobbly panel lines looking vaguely OK and I'm happy with the result, even though it's still a bit scrappy in places. Seatbelts and headlamps are aftermarket, with crash-moulded headlamp covers (kit items were like ricepaper) and side windows from clear acetate (ditto). Radiators from Meri. Surprisingly for a 30+ year-old kit, the decals didn't crack and so they are all as-supplied and not at all yellowed. And a couple of photos to show how it was when I got it (from eB8y, dead cheap); Typical '80s resin: lots of bubbles and flash! And not much in the way of instructions either. But I used to like that aspect: meant you had to plan ahead and do a bit of research! And this is what it looked like after I thought I had straightened-out the bodywork!!! Panel lines were soon filled and then the hard work really began. Thank heaven for Mr Surfacer:
  11. 1992 vintage Airfix kerb-side/motorised kit, apparently quite rare nowadays. Tamiya paint from the rattle-can, followed by three coats of X22 clear, Studio 27 decals and more X22, finishing with Turtle Wax again. The decals were outstanding but measured for an entirely different kit !! :bangs head . The kit may have been from Japan originally either Doyusha or Nichimo or someone like that. It fits where it touches and sits way too high, but as you don't see too many (any) around, then why not, eh ? Thanks for taking the time to look and/or comment. AFN Ian.
  12. It's not often nowadays that I get to make a vehicle model, having in the past built many, many kits by Tameo, Meri, BBR, Alezan, Marsh, Provence Moulage, Starter, Tenariv - in fact probably every major car manufacturer in 1/43 scale, plus a couple of 1/20 Studio 27s too. But this is just off the table, a kit dating back to (IIRC) 1992, and which I only 'discovered' during a garage tidy at Christmas. I did have trouble with cracking of the decals, but a coat of hairspray did the trick and they stayed together long enough to be applied. Mind you I notice a couple of cracks now I look at the photos: must touch those up. Model is Raul Boesel's Jaguar XJR-16 from the 1991 IMSA championship, from a 1/43 kit by Starter: The XJR-16 is the final iteration of the 1989 XJR-10/11 (IMSA/WEC, respectively), the latter of which I modelled all of 27 years ago, again 1/43 scale by Starter. I dragged it out of garage storage this morning and took some photos of that for comparison. It's stood up remarkably well considering it's been boxed and tussled around for at least two house moves!
  13. Not at all recent, but following interest in my 'real' recent build of Starter's Jaguar XJR-16 I thought I'd get in the garage and dust off a couple of other oldies. A bit of a rarity, but a lovely kit and enjoyable build: Horbra 1/43 Porsche 962 Brun sprint car. An expensive kit at the time I recall (all of £30 circa 1990), but loads of lovely resin, white metal and photoetch. Those wheels are awesome too: And another lovely build: Starter's 1/43 kit of the 1991 Sauber C291: IIRC this is the Schumacher/Wendlinger Suzuka winner (and again IIRC the only win for the C291). This one took a lot of cleaning to get years of dust and grime off, so apologies that it looks a bit grubby. Both of these also needed a few bits reattaching!
  14. While I have the Lotus 88 proceeding slowly in the background I have decided to try and get a quick build out of the way, so inspired by @Borez and @shood23 I'm going to build another Fujimi 917K, this one is Helmut Marko (yes, that Helmut Marko) and Gijs van Lennep's Martini Le Mans winner. This will be a quick build, oob, with just the Studio 27 PE for some extra detail. So far I have started on the bodywork, just a bit of clean up and glueing, with a bit of filling to do.
  15. Anyone come across any Matra Simca MS670 kits? The car won Le Mans 24hr in 1972, 1973 and 1974 yet I can't find a kit of one anywhere?
  16. Finally got a chance to start this in earnest,was scheduled to do it last year in the Le Mans group build but life got in the way.Kit is Tamiya's 787b in Renown colours with Scale Motorsport composite fibre decals and PE and Studio 27 PE. Couple pics of the engine, Had a bit of a 'phaff' with the composite fibre decals,first time using something like this but it looks ok ish,missed a few bits where the decal torn whilst trying to cut round the 'throttle pullies'. Still wet from the Mr Mark Softer Another first for me was making some PE parts,these are two throttle pullies. Fitted the pullies along with the coil packs fitted,then onto the rotors Throttle body added Rear suspension added,part completed,haven't a clue where the sink plungers go After all that I needed a drink.........................or two
  17. After getting the go-ahead (thanks guys!) I'll be knocking together the Slot.It 1/32 kit of the Porsche 962c as a fully-functional slot car. Slot.It has been bringing out its cracking range of Group C cars for the thick end of a decade now. Having started out selling high-end upgrade parts, they started out as a manufacturer with the Porsche 956 in low-drag Le Mans spec and progressed through the Porsche 956/962 family to make gorgeous models of the most of the iconic cars of the era: Sauber-Mercedes C9, the Jaguar XJR-6 family, Toyota 88c, Mazda 787 and Lancia LC2. Although its focus is on delivering a satisfying slot car to committed club racers, Slot.It stands pretty much alone in being able to do so without compromising the quality of its modelling. Most Scalextric models stand comparison with the best diecasts in the market these days, but they are hopeless on the track. Conversely the specialist competition manufacturers build cars that tend to be 1/28 in width and 1/30 in length and about 1/36 in height, making some serious racing weaponry but nasty little things to look at. Slot.It manages to avoid any overt compromise in looks or performance, although by sticking to 15mm rear wheels as standard it does lose scale accuracy on most of the later cars. New 16.5mm rear wheels redress this significantly and these are what I shall be fitting on this particular build. I'm going to build it as the 1990 #7 car driven by Derek Bell, Hans Stuck and Frank Jelinski as it represents the end of a great era for Porsche and has two of my heroes, Bell and Stuck, in the same car. It's a lovely version of the Blaupunkt colours with additional Porsche branding, the decals for which I've got from Patto's Place in Australia. By 1990 a lot of privateer Porsche teams were experimenting with different aerodynamic packages and carbon fibre tubs to try and keep pace with the arrival of Jaguar, Sauber-Mercedes, Toyota and Nissan. The car I'm modelling, however, retained the same basic look that had done Porsche so well at the Sarthe since the team's first 1-2-3 finish in 1982. The 1990 edition at Le Mans was intended to be the 962's last hurrah, with Porsche giving works status to the Joest squad. Famously Joest had managed to win the event in 1984-85 with its celebrated 'NewMan' liveried 956 chassis number 117 - one of the few chassis to take two wins on the event, and in 1985 it did so against the best efforts of Porsche's own squad of 962s. A team of four cars was entered of which three were brand new cars and two were built to a new specification for lighter weight. One of these was shunted by Jonathan Palmer in practice and took no further part. The two 'traditional' 962s trundled round to finish 8th and 14th. Predictably with the calibre of old hands at the wheel, the #7 car was the strongest Joest finisher in fourth place, some nine laps behind the winning Jaguar of Price Cobb, John Nielsen and Martin Brundle... although the all-British 962 of David Leslie, David Sears and Anthony Reid pipped the 'works' entry to the podium and finished as the best of the Porsches. I'm looking forward to this one, makes a change from my usual GB entries!
  18. Hi everyone. My first ever build, the 1989/90 spec Sauber C9 by Tamiya. Never build a proper model before, but I love this car, so it was a good place to start. Will hopefully end up as below, with some photoetch parts and carbon fibre/kevlar decals.. Firstly separated the front panel from the centre section, then also removed the front spoiler from the base. Whole front end separated. Only isse is on the later spec cars, they used a larger front spoiler lip which looks better, so custom making a new piece to fit out of some old plastic. Thats it for now, need to get some paints and order the p/e and scale carbon fibre.
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