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  1. Ju-87G1/G2 Stuka (BF-002) 1:35 Border Model via Albion Alloys The Stuka must be one of the most well-known German aircraft of WWII, partially because of its propaganda effects during the Nazis’ early successes with Blitzkrieg as they over-ran much of Europe, one after another. It was developed in the mid-30s as a dive-bomber, with distinctive gull-wing and fixed undercarriage with spatted wheels, which housed the so-called ‘Jericho Trumpet’ sirens that terrified its victims, knowing that the bombers were entering the dive phase of their attack from an almost vertical angle. The pilots would often black-out during the dive, but they were assisted by an automatic pull-out system that prevented many pilots from ploughing into the ground whilst unconscious. When they were used to attack the British Isles they experienced heavy losses due to the fact that they were preyed upon by a faster, more agile opponent, and those fighters were being accurately directed toward them by radar operated ground-control. They began to be used in conjunction with Bf.110 escorts, but even the 110s were no match, needing their own escorts against the British Spitfires and Hurricanes. Rather than withdrawing the type from service entirely, they worked upon improving the airframe, and re-tasked it for other roles in less dangerous environments where the fighter opponents were either absent or less capable than the typical Allied aircraft of the day. The initial Ju.87B that was so badly mauled by the RAF gave way to the C, the D, and finally the R, which included a pivot to the ground-attack and tank destroyer role in which it had mixed success, partly due to its relatively slow speed over the battlefield making it an easy target. It lost the ground-attack role to the Fw.190, ending production of the type at the close of 1944, by which time it was hopelessly outclassed. The Kit This is a brand-new tooling from Border models from their new line of 1:35 aircraft that began with the Bf.109 that we reviewed here a while ago. It arrives in a large top-opening box, and inside are five sprues of medium grey styrene, two sprues of clear parts, a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a four-part resin figure, a decal sheet, and the glossy instruction booklet, with colour profiles on the back pages that have been penned for them by AMMO. Detail is very good, and once you get over the slightly unusual scale of things, especially the pilot, who appears too tall for the scale, but that’s an optical illusion from staring at 1:32 pilot figures for years. Measuring it, the fellow scales out at approximately 5’10” ignoring the extra height of his cap. Construction begins with the Jumo 211J engine that could output up to 1,400hp on a good day, and this starts with the inverted V-12 block, which has two sides and two end-caps, with a top section added, and a V-shaped underside, plus a fluid reservoir on the top. It is bracketed by a pair of engine mounts, with another rectangular reservoir on the side of one of them, plus a drive-shaft to the front. More ancillaries are built up and mated with the engine, totalling 16 parts, plus a pair of cylinder head covers underneath. The firewall is detailed with seven extra parts, the oil-cooler is built of four styrene parts, plus two PE grilles at the rear, then the three sub-assemblies are joined together for insertion into the nose, which is made up from two halves separately from the main fuselage. When the engine is inserted, the front is closed up by a circular insert, and the exhaust stubs are slotted into the sides, each one having a slide-moulded hollow lip to add realism, and two tiny PE L-shaped parts placed in slots just in front of the radiator intake. The cockpit is begun by making up the pilot’s seat from four styrene parts and two PE belts, with the bulkhead behind it made of two more before being added to the stepped floor surface, which also has a clear view-port in the floor, control column, two-part rear seat, gun mount and rear bulkhead. A large rectangular ammo can is added to either side of the gun mount, then the two sidewalls are made up with PE and styrene parts, and glued to the inside of the fuselage halves after drilling a few holes, then trapping the cockpit between the halves along with a circular insert behind the gunner’s position. The two-part rudder with control linkages and clear light are also fitted at this time. Attention shifts to the wings, which have a separate gull-shaped centre section on the lower wing and shorter outer sections, both of which have a landing light and clear cover in the leading edge. The relocated radiators under the centre of the wings have separate inserts with PE grilles on both sides, which are glued in first then covered by the cowlings. Each wing has the period-typical Junkers flying surfaces that run the full width of the wingspan in three sections, attaching by narrow rods into slots, with additional actuators added for each part, plus a couple of horn balances on the outer section. The upper wings close over the lights, and because they overlap the joint between the lower inner and outer sections, makes for a strong joint. Wingtips, a top-side square insert, and on the port side a strange little horn that requires the drilling out of a slot outboard of the inner/outer join. In the open centre section, the lower-view glazing is added, and an un-numbered surround that supports another piece of glazing, which I eventually found on sprue C after (far too) much searching. It’s part C7 in case you wondered. The instructions also repeat the completion of the centre section along with the other wing, but it’s easy enough to ignore that. The Stuka had a large greenhouse canopy, and you have a choice of three styles of front opener, one with a straight lower rail, one with a pair of sliding windows in the middle, and another with a kinked lower rail. The windscreen has two choices, one that has simplified cheek panels, the other with an additional vertical frame, and both have an external piece of armoured glass added to the front, which is best done late in the build and possibly using a clear varnish to avoid bubbles. The fixed centre section has a roll-over frame inserted inside before it is glued in place, and the rear glazing has two styrene inserts added before the zwilling (twin) mounted MG15s are made up and slipped through the port in the rear. The barrels and breeches are a single part, with four more styrene parts making up the mount, and a pair of PE ring sights are added to a curved bar above each barrel. Behind the gun position, the EZ6 direction-finding unit receives a clear styrene cover, although it’s not clear from the profiles whether this should be left clear or painted over. The elevators have separate flying surfaces with twin actuators and a tip-mounted pivot that is made from two parts. Two of the tabs on the elevators should be removed from each of the flying surfaces before they are mated, then they attach to the fuselage by the usual slot-and-tab method. The nose is joined to the fuselage before the canopy is completed, and is joined by another section of the upper fuselage under the windscreen, which has rudder pedals and instrument panel that doesn’t mention the decal that is present on the sheet four-fold, but it’s there and you know about it now. The gunsight and clear lens are added at the front, then the sub-assembly is dropped into the space in front of the pilot. The prop has a central boss in two halves, with separate blades with keyed bases, plus front and back sections of the spinner enclosing it after attachment to the drive-shaft with a flat circular retaining plate. The fuselage and wings are also mated at this point, followed by the main gear legs, which are made wheels first, having two half tyres and two-part hubs that the strut slips over, and this is then covered over by the spatted fairing, with a separate scissor-link hidden away inside. The tail-wheel is similarly made from four parts, with a two-part yoke trapping it in place for installation under the aircraft that allows it to stand on its own “feet” for the first time. The G often carried gondola-mounted 37mm cannons under each wing, with a 6-round magazine containing armour-piercing rounds that garnered the nickname Kanonenvogel, which literally translates to Cannon Bird. The breeches are made of two halves that are surrounded by a lozenge-shaped cowling with the magazine projecting from both sides about half way. The pylons they mount on are also in halves, and have additional styrene parts and PE mounting plates added so they can be fitted under the wings in the pre-drilled holes. The final jobs involve adding the pitot probe to the starboard wing leading edge, plus optional armour panels on the sides of the pilot’s cockpit if using the simplified windscreen and kinked lower edge to the sliding canopy that protects him. The Figure Included in this first boxing is a four-part pilot figure in a greenish-grey resin. It has separate arms and head, but the rest is cast in one, with crisp casting and moulding that has no visible bubbles or defects. The head had fallen off its casting block on my example, but the chap is still smiling from under his cap, so it’s all good. The drape of his costume, features and pose are all first rate too, so it’s a welcome addition. Markings There are two decal options at the back of the instruction booklet, both wearing green splinter camouflage and a yellow tail band, and flown by the same well-known pilot. From the box you can build one of the following: Ju-87G-1, Hans-Ulrich Rudel, Kursk, 1943 Ju-87G-2, Hans-Ulrich Rudel, Eastern Front, Germany 1944 Decals are printed anonymously, with good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The dials on the instrument panels are very slightly out of register however, but it is so unlikely to be noticed that it doesn’t really matter. There are a few stencils on the sheet, and some Swastikas for the tail fin, although they are absent from the profiles at the back of the instruction booklet. Conclusion If you want to engage in this relatively new scale for aircraft, this seems like a good plan. It is well-detailed and should be simple to put together with a bit of care and attention, so should build up into a creditable replica of this genuinely iconic aircraft. Highly recommended. Available in the UK in all good model shops. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Ju.88A-4 Interior 3D Decal (QD32114 for Revell) 1:32 Quinta Studios When Quinta’s innovative products first came to our attention, they caused quite a stir, as well they should. The replacement Instrument Panels and internal details are mind-boggling to look at, because we’re used to seeing simplified styrene instrument panels, or Photo-Etch Brass panels with either two layers of etch, or laminated parts that can be tricky to glue together, even though they are pre-painted for your ease. But decals? These aren’t your run-of-the-mill decals though, they’re 3D printed in many layers and colours on a flat carrier film, having as much in the way of elevation as is needed to complete a realistic panel printed in the correct colours, complete with shiny dial faces and metallic-effect hardware, and often including cushions and seat belts in the set. Each set arrives in a ziplok bag with a folded instruction booklet protecting the decals, which are also separately bagged, so they should reach you in good condition. The pictorial instructions are printed on glossy paper, and are shown in full colour as befits the awesomeness of the sets, showing exactly where each part should go on the actual model, so there’s no confusion due to the “pictures speak a thousand words” maxim. Additional hints and instructions are also included, marking out parts needing bases, kit parts that are used or replaced and other useful tips. The technical instructions in the text-based, giving additional tips to the new user about maximising adhesion and preventing lift at the edges by wicking in super glue. Although you are advised to use Super Glue (CA) to attach the decals to the surface permanently, preparation is much the same as your standard decal, but you will need to remove any raised detail that would be underneath the location depicted in the instructions, and some new parts will need small backing panels or bases on which to apply the decal. A slim piece of sheet styrene would perform that task, and painting the edges a matching colour should minimise its appearance or turn it completely invisible. This set is patterned for the big Revell Junkers Ju.88, which is a nice kit in itself that deserves a little extra detail in the cockpit area, especially given its size and the expansive greenhouse of a canopy. The set comprises a staggering six sheets of decals, three of which contain identical sets of crew seatbelts, which are laminated up with comfort pads, adjusters and other details for each of the aircrew. These can be draped however you like on the seats, with the instructions showing a few suggestions to help you on your way. The main instrument panel is a tour-de-force of detail, with additional decals adding extra depth, more instruments on the yoke, and straps for the rudder pedals. The radio panel is completely redone with superbly accurate fronts that are simply stunning. The bomb-sight is similarly redone with dials, knobs and buttons added to the kit part, and a realistic slab of wood grain effect for the plotting table. The other instruments around the cockpit are many and varied, adding depth, detail and colour to the area in heaps, as you can see from the instructions above. The final aspect of the set is the sheet of ammunition belts that are used to adorn the various crew-served self-defence weapons around the airframe, getting more detail and colour in there than most of could achieve with a lifetime of practice. Conclusion The breadth of the set and the detail therein is incredible, even down to the infinitesimal switches and impressive crispness of the set. This cockpit will be so impressive after completion that you will be desperate to open the canopy to show off the details. It’s not a cheap set, but it is large, comprehensive and worth the expense. Extremely highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  3. I have been communicating with Rabbit Leader and he and Pat seem quite keen to have this group build cover the full range of Matchbox kits. There is a good list of who is doing what so I have decided to fill in one of the blanks. Therefore, this morning my Junkers 188 arrived in the post. Not sure what camouflage scheme to do it in yet, maybe the one on the box. I will look into it when I have got a bit further with my Queen Bee.
  4. So far so good! Fits together well, but its full of gaps and will need a lot of filler! PMask masking set was bought from EBAY 2011 Tooling Interiors sprayed Gunship Grey, dry drushed with light grey, washed with water colours. Decal panel Wood effect was hand painted
  5. MikroMir is to release a family of 1/48th Junkers W.34, W.33, W.46 & K.43 Source: https://www.facebook.com/mikro.mir.dnepr/posts/3208785395865841 First 3D renders V.P.
  6. MikroMir is to release (in 2022 ?) a 1/72nd Junkers Ju-388 kit. Source: https://www.facebook.com/mikro.mir.dnepr/posts/4646701468740886 Renders in progress V.P.
  7. Master-X is to release 1/72nd Junkers Ju.46 resin kits - ref. MX7224 Source: http://master-x.wz.cz/Ju46_Europa.html First boxing - ref. MX7224-01 - Junkers Ju-46hi "Europa" V.P.
  8. Here are the final photos of my Ju 88C-6b from ICM in the markings of Luftwaffe nightfighter ace Prinz Heinrich zu Sayn Wittgenstein. The kit had great fit on most parts, except on the engine/nacelle assembly. I had to leave the engines off the model because they widened the centre of the nacelles and caused problems with the fit.
  9. Hello and welcome to my most recent WIP thread, I'll try to update it as frequently as possible. This thread is dedicated to one of Germany's nighfighter aces, Prinz Heinrich zu Sayn Wittgenstein. He was born in 1916 and died in 1944. During his career with the Luftwaffe's night fighter arm, he was credited with a total of 83 victories. This isn't the first time I've built ICM's Ju 88C-6b, so I know what I should and what I shouldn't do. The first build showed me the cockpit and the wing roots were a perfect fit, but the installation of the wings to the centre wing section was difficult. I also found out that, by attaching the engines to the landing gear bulkheads, they wouldn't let me close the engine nacelles, leaving huge gaps. So I plan to leave the engines out and glue the landing gear bulkheads and radiator faces. The exhausts will be left out too (I'll glue the flame dampers, so they won't be seen anyway) and the propellers will be glued directly to the radiator faces. I also discovered that ICM decals only give you one chance to place them right onto the model's surface, so I asked Far South Models to make me two sets of decals for this pilot's Ju 88C-6b. Now, onto the photos. All the parts come inside a single bag with a sticky lid. The kit doesn't come with Swastikas, so I'll be adding two from Dukel Hobbies's set.
  10. Trumpeter is to release a 1/24th Junkers Ju-87A Stuka kit - ref. 02420 A test build was on display at the All Japan Model & Hobby Show 2016. Sources: https://www.facebook.com/INTERALLIED/photos/pcb.1577157062310657/1577157032310660/?type=3&theater https://www.facebook.com/TrumpeterModel/photos/pcb.666914713467125/666914590133804/?type=3&theater Kit ref. number 02420 was originally announced as a 1/24th Ju-87D-3 in the Trumpeter's catalog 2016-2017. (http://scalemodels.ru/modules/news/img_9587_1449140881_2.jpg.html) V.P.
  11. Hi Friends! This is not my newest building Construction time is dictated by the number of parts and dimensions of the aircraft The division of the engine nacelle panels is not correct everywhere Enjoy watching!
  12. Ju.188 Update Sets (for Revell/Dragon) 1:48 Eduard Revell have reboxed the Dragon Ju.188, which is the only game in town in this scale, so is the de facto best kit. It’s not a bad kit by any stretch, but due to its age and the big greenhouse canopy, it would benefit from some updates to the detail if you feel the urge. If you do, then Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. The larger canopy mask sets are supplied in ziplok bags that can be easily resealed. Interior (491143) Two frets are included, one nickel plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. A complete set of new layered instrument panels, radio gear and side consoles are the primary parts on the painted set, substantial internal structure details and armament improvements along with ammo guides are also supplied on the bare fret. At time of writing, this set was out of stock, so we have had to use a stock pic for the bare brass sheet from Eduard’s website. Zoom! Set (FE1143) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted parts that are used to improve on the main aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the structural elements. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1144) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one stroke. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as two sets of four-point crew belts, you also get a set of simple belts for two additional positions. Exterior (481041) This larger bare brass set contains some important upgrades, such as annular radiator panels, internal bulkheads and ribbing within the main and tail gear bays, plus details added to the legs themselves, even including a small hose connecting the brake drum with the hub. The gear bay doors are also uprated with hinge parts, internal skins and complete replacement doors from the main gear, with actuators on the ailerons and many small upgrades around the airframe. Masks (EX745) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for all the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Masks Tface (EX746) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. Conclusion These are useful sets for the modeller, and the mask sets should remove any trepidation about masking and painting the canopy, which is always nice. At time of writing, some sets are out of stock on the Eduard site, so keep checking back, as they’ll be back in stock soon. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  13. Assuming it's the Dragon mould? Couldn't find anything on Revell's website https://www.jadlamracingmodels.com/revell-03855-junkers-ju188-a-1-racher-1-48-model-kit/
  14. MikroMir is to release a 1/48th Junkers F.13 kit - ref. ? Source: https://www.facebook.com/mikro.mir.dnepr/posts/3245837238827323 First 3D renders V.P.
  15. With a bit more room here, I was thinking about suitable types for a STGB. One aircarft type which crossed my mind was the Junkers Ju 87 Stuka. There are great kits out there in all the scales and an upcoming new release from Airfix in 1/48 and I couldn't see it listed in the completed GB listing, so it looks like it was never done before. Also the type flew from the Spanish Civil War up to the end of WWII and was operated in many different colour schemes by all the Axis Air Forces plus captured examples. And with its 3.7 cm canons, it was the closest thing to a flying tank. Any takers to put the name on the list? 1. Basilisk (Host) 2. Arniec 3. Caerbannog 4. jrlx 5. SimonT 6. Knight_Flyer 7. John 8. Black Knight 9. franky boy 10. vppelt68 (co-Host) 11. GREG DESTEC 12. modelling minion 13. Sgt.Squarehead 14. SleeperService 15. Valkyrie 16. Corsairfoxfouruncle 17. jrlx 18. CliffB 19. Mottlemaster 20. MarkSH 21. DaveyGair 22. Stew Dapple 23. Greg Law 24. Niknak 25. Silonez
  16. Dear Fellow Modellers, This is my rendition of Revell's 1/72 Ju 88A-4, in the scheme used in Sicily, in 1941. It was my entry to the Ju 88 STGB. Unfortunately I didn't managed to finish it in time, even after an additional week was given to finish the GB. The WIP thread is here. Anyway, it was finished last night and here are a few notes, before the pictures: It's my first two-engined bomber model and my most complex model until now It was super-detailed using Eduard's BIG PE set, with details for the interior, exterior and surface panels The kit's engine exhausts were replaced by Quickboost's resin exhausts, much better detailed I scratch built the inner ribbing structure of the tail section, using strips of plasticard, and the instrument boxes and wiring on the back of the instrument panel, using pieces of plasticard rods and very thin copper wire Masking of the transparent parts was done using the pre-cut masks in Eduard's BIG set The kit has a few important fit problems: the join of cockpit underside and top parts, the join of the front fuselage and nose glazing, the join of the wing tips with the rest of the wings, the insertion of wings in the fuselage and the join of the the wings' leading edges and fuselage Painting was done mainly with Gunze acrylics and a few Tamiya, all airbrushed. Alclad Aluminium was used for a few NMF parts Alclad's Aqua Gloss was used as clear coat before decaling and the wash, and Alclad's Flat Klear was used as finishing coat Weathering was done with Vallejo's washes and pigments using period photos as references Now, the pictures of the finished model. 1. General views IMAG4282 IMAG4283 IMAG4284 IMAG4285 IMAG4286 IMAG4287 IMAG4288 IMAG4289 IMAG4290 IMAG4291 IMAG4292 IMAG4297 2. Engine detail IMAG4293 3. Kill markings and aerial IMAG4278 4..Cockpit and canopy views IMAG4294 IMAG4295 IMAG4296 5. Cockpit before being closed IMAG3971 IMAG3975 IMAG4001 IMAG4060 6. Instrument panel and the detailing of its back IMAG3979 IMAG3978 7. Installation of machine guns and ammo belts IMAG4045 IMAG4051 8. Internal ribbing of the tail section IMAG3815 IMAG3816 IMAG3817 IMAG3818 9. Details of bombs and access hatch IMAG4298 10. Landing gear: IMAG4299 IMAG4300 11. Oil, fuel and exhaust stains on the wing IMAG4301 12. With the other German "cousins" in the display shelf. IMAG4302 Thanks for looking. All comments, suggestions and criticism are welcome. Cheers Jaime EDIT: picture of kill markings and aerial added
  17. Hi here's a few pics of a build finished a little while ago. Pretty simple kit of an unusual (to me) subject. Used Blue Rider decals (what few there are) to represent a Bolivian machine of the 1920's Thanks 20200125_154030 by bryn robinson, on Flickr 20200125_154021 by bryn robinson, on Flickr 20200125_154005 by bryn robinson, on Flickr 20200125_153950 by bryn robinson, on Flickr 20200125_153937 by bryn robinson, on Flickr
  18. Here's my ICM Ju 88C-6b in 1:48. The decals on this kit are of the ones that stick at first contact with the surface. I lost three of the main decals and had to improvise.
  19. Hello guys. As the title explains, are ICM's decals of the sticky nature? I don't want to find out that after having my model all gloss coated, only to find out the decals stick firmly to the surface as soon as they are placed. TIA!
  20. This is the special edition of the Hasegawa kit, which includes some white metal parts for the 20mm cannons, flame damping exhausts and the different antenna for the top of the canopy. As usual the Hasegawa kits go together without much fuss with the decals and detail being just fine for this scale. I did add some seat belts to the kit though. The aircraft depicts one of Nachtschlachgruppe 9 in Italy that carried out night harassment raids against the allies. Camo was done free hand.
  21. Finished this Stuka yesterday as part of the Ju 87 GB, which ends in April. This plane was also my first entry ever into a group build! It's not a bad kit. The clear parts are the worst parts, they're narrower than the cockpit opening, so they don't sit properly over the opening.
  22. Don't ask me what it is... AZmodel is to release a 1/72nd (Junkers ????) kit - ref. Source: https://www.facebook.com/azmodelkits/photos/a.478840912140523/2598691176822142/ V.P.
  23. Hello all! Here are some photos of my recently completed model, Revell's Ju 88A-1 in 1:32. It was a fight from start to finish, some pieces, such as the rudder pedals, didn't live to see the end of the project. I take all that to my own poor construction methods. I won't build another 32nd bomber again.
  24. Decided to start a side project, apart from Airfix's 1:48 Bf 109E. This photo is from earlier today. And this one is from today's evening. The camouflage has been outlined with a pencil. I had glue remaining just for the left engine cowling, I'll buy more tomorrow, if I can.
  25. Ju.290 Update Set (BRL72187 for Revell) 1:72 Brengun The Ju.290 Seeadler was a huge maritime reconnaissance aircraft that could also be pressed into service as a transport. It was chosen as a candidate for development into the proposed Amerika Bomber project that eventually fizzled out as the situation in Europe deteriorated. Less than 70 were built and none survived long after the war. Revell’s kit in 1:72 is as nice as it is large, and with its heritage beginning in 2003 it is a relatively modern tooling, but could do with some upgrading of the finer details to match modern standards and satisfy those interested in detail. This Photo-Etch (PE) set from Brengun is designed to improve on what Revell have given us by adding extra detail in all the right places. It arrives in a compact flat pack with a red Brengun themed header card and a sheet of black paper showing off the PE within. There are two frets of nickel-plated PE, plus a small slip of clear acetate with the instrument panel and gunsight on the mid-upper turret. The instructions are found behind the black paper, and construction begins with the rear turret, with interior detail in the canopy as well as within the opening into the fuselage, including a new set of ring sights at the tip of the barrel. Flipping to the front, the cockpit has a new set of instrument panels with the acetate rears depicting the dials, a new coaming, throttle quadrants, rudder pedals and other instruments on the sidewalls. The seats also get belts and a stowage pocket behind the right seat. The mid-upper is decked out with a brand new turret basket after removing the simplified tube that is provided in the kit, including instruments around the lip, ammo feed, and upgrades to the gun with the aforementioned gunsight. Externally, the main gear wells are adorned with a new bay skin, plus a new set of laminated bay doors and brake hose parts, while the airframe is given a make-over by replacing most of the antennae dotted around, including the whisker antennae on the nose, which will improve their look immensely. Lastly, the engines are fitted with a circular inner skin that gives the impression of depth and the cylinders behind the prop boss. As an aside, the picture of the PE wasn't taken in black and white, but came out looking that way for reasons best known to my scanner and how it reacts to the light reflecting off the metal. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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