Jump to content

As a result of the close-down of the UK by the British Government last night, we have made all the Buy/Sell areas read-only until we open back up again, so please have a look at the announcement linked here.

This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'italeri'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Calendars

  • Community Calendar
  • Group Builds
  • Model Show Calendar

Forums

  • Site Help & Support
    • FAQs
    • Help & Support
    • New Members
    • Announcements
  • Aircraft Modelling
    • Military Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Civil Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Aircraft
    • Ready for Inspection - Aircraft
    • Aircraft Related Subjects
  • AFV Modelling (armour, military vehicles & artillery)
    • Armour Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Armour
    • Ready for Inspection - Armour
    • Armour Related Subjects
    • large Scale AFVs (1:16 and above)
  • Maritime Modelling (Ships and subs)
    • Maritime Discussion by era
    • Work in Progress - Maritime
    • Ready for Inspection - Maritime
  • Vehicle Modelling (non-military)
    • Vehicle Discussion
    • Work In Progress - Vehicles
    • Ready For Inspection - Vehicles
  • Science Fiction & RealSpace
    • Science Fiction Discussion
    • RealSpace Discussion
    • Work In Progress - SF & RealSpace
    • Ready for Inspection - SF & RealSpace
  • Figure Modeling
    • Figure Discussion
    • Figure Work In Progress
    • Figure Ready for Inspection
  • Dioramas, Vignettes & Scenery
    • Diorama Chat
    • Work In Progress - Dioramas
    • Ready For Inspection - Dioramas
  • Reviews, News & Walkarounds
    • Reviews
    • Current News
    • Build Articles
    • Tips & Tricks
    • Walkarounds
  • Modelling
  • General Discussion
  • Shops, manufacturers & vendors
  • Archive

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 552 results

  1. I am about to begin building Italeri's 1:72 FW 189 A-2. I was lucky enough to receive this kit for Christmas, having been keeping an eye on it on several online shops. I love the twin boom, and huge greenhouse effect cockpit of this aircraft, and in its winter distemper colour scheme of 'Heeres-Aufklarungsgruppe 32' it looks like a mean bit of kit. So let's look at what the kit has in store.... As usual the box art is beautiful, and the instruction booklet is detailed and clear, has the option of 4 colour schemes and decals suit your choice of build. There are 3 grey sprues, which appear free from flash, and have a nice amount of detailing, with panel lines that are not too deep. Then there are four clear pieces, these are going to take quite a lot of attention and time to mask up properly (but should be worth it in the end). This is going to be a straight from the box build, with landing gear down. I have decided to build the scheme of FW 189 A-2, Heeres-Aufklarungsgruppe 32 based in Finland, 1943. This is the aircraft pictured on the box art, and I have chosen that scheme firstly because it looks stunning, and secondly because I want to test my skills airbrushing the winter paintwork. I only hope I can come close to doing it justice.
  2. Hi Pals, a new project, is the Vol.2 of the German tank destroyer, in this case the Stug IV. I bought it together with the Jadgpanzer IV, and it seems, at least on the box, that it will be somewhat better than the other. I'll see (fingers crossed). I like the plastic in gray more than the other, because I find it easier to visualize. It includes a small set of PEs and a metal cannon, it's not bad, just in case I bought a set of Edu's PEs. The idea is to add what you can and replace what is clearly improvable, because once painted, you do not know if it is metal / plastic ... I hope to start soon ... lol Thanks for watching and commenting as always P.D.: It is the same kit that had a thread open in the WIP section, before knowing that there was a PzIV GB. from now on, I will only update the GB thread, for those interested in it. There will be a link in the old WIP for the GB, and vice versa. T'S TIME...AMBUSH!!, GERMAN TANK DESTROYERS VOL2, STUG IV SDKFZ.167 1/35 ITALERI
  3. Hello. Here is my Italeri 1:72 Junkers Ju 188A-2 U5+KH, of 1./KG2, Luftwaffe, based at Bron, Lyon, France, autumn 1944. I completed this kit in 2005. The cockpit was incorrect so I scratchbuilt a new one. The top turret interior was also modified as that of the kit was more correct for the Ju 188E/F variant. The exhaust flame dampeners came from a scrapped Dragon He 219, if I recall correctly. Several other details were added. The main scheme was painted with an airbrush. Decals came from a Begemot sheet. Thanks for looking and, as always, all comments are welcome Miguel
  4. Here with my recently finished Italeri 1/32 Mirage IIIE What can I say about this kit? Well I love Mirages and particularly the Mirage III. If I didn't, this kit would be in the bin! Soft and sometimes incomplete surface details. The surface is rough. The instructions are unclear in a number of areas. The nose cone in particular and some other major parts are poorly fitting - in fact I would go so far as to say the nosecone is an appalling fit for a modern kit! The wheels are a joke - the tread on the main wheels, well, what there is, bears no resemblance to the real thing. I wasn't helped by a strangely moulded canopy which didn't even start to fit and was strangely flexible (Italeri did replace this after an argument). The afterburner area is horrible! The indicated position of the holes to mount the underwing fuel tanks are in the wrong place and if, like me, you choose the large 1700l tanks, they foul the U/C doors. I filled and repositioned after much swearing. The sprue with the ECM pods on has some weird short shot areas, luckily on the inside, out of sight (though I am going to tackle Italeri again for some replacements). I certainly didn't find this easy. I was going to use some Berna decals and build something a little different but ultimately, the kit did not seem worth it to me so I went with the kit decals which worked superbly - but some of the decals are horribly over-scale and unreallistic. In the end, it looks quite nice but I am truly fed up with it now so I'm calling it finished. I did intend to do some more weathering/chipping etc and I may go back to it later. I replaced the nose probe with a Master turned one and I replaced the wheels with IIIC ones from Eduard which luckily include the later E type brakes. So without more ado - some pictures (And yes, I do need a bigger base LOL!) Cheers Malcolm
  5. So I thought it may be interesting to record my journey building only my second boat, the first being Revell's 1/72 U boat Type VIIc. Whilst I'm pleased with how this turned out the Elco 80 presents a specific challenge for me, it's made of wood! If you wear the paint away that's what you should see, wood. The bigger scale also really appeals and my hope is to produce a much more subtle weathering effect than my usual efforts. Mr U Boat got me some of the way there so let see what I can do with this one. I have a plan of attack that I hope will work but more on that as I progress. So here's the kit: I also have the Eduard PE set for this kit which should add some additional interest, not to mention some Anglo Saxon! I'd better hide the swear box now!
  6. Hi guys! Im new here and this is my first post (fingers crossed ). Its been nigh on 25 years since i last built a model, and wanted to make my brother something special for his 50th birthday. This is an Italeri 1:24 Ford Escort MK II RS 1600 kit, I didn't go with the paint or decals as I was trying to reproduce what my brother had built himself IRL, the RS Mexico version of the MKII. some pics of the model, with some of the real thing at the end. Still getting to know my airbrush and paints, things sure have changed in the past 2 decades Painted with a mix of Tamiya X and LP with dash of Italeri acrylics. Looking forward to reading the critique. Tips on the airbrushing side are very welcome, just couldn't get a nice even gloss for the life of me.
  7. T-34/85 Zavod 183 Mod.44 (6545) 1:35 Italeri The T-34 gave the German invaders something of a shock when they first encountered it during operation Barbarossa, their attempt at conquering the Soviet Union, and they were instrumental in reversing the tide through both their impressive performance and weight of numbers, due to their simple construction and the overwhelming industrial capability of the Russians. Even when the Germans were knocking on the gates of Moscow and Stalingrad, production was shifted lock-stock-and-barrel further east with barely a flicker, and in Stalingrad there are stories of fresh tanks rolling off the production lines and almost straight into combat. The simple design used tried and tested technology, together with innovative sloped armour that increased its effective thickness when hit in the horizontal plane. It was initially fitted with a powerful 76mm gun, but when this proved less able to penetrate the frontal armour of the Tiger, it was upgraded in 1943 with a bigger ZiS 85mm gun, which was equipped with a larger three-man turret that reduced the combat load on the crew, enabling the commander to concentrate more on the task in hand. It's diesel power plant gave it a good speed over most terrains, and as production ramped up there were over 1,000 produced each month, plenty to replace losses and more besides. The 1944 mod introduced a simplified new gun, improved crew layout, better sight and the radio moved into the turret to take advantage of increased space. The Kit This is a complete new tooling from Italeri, and shouldn't be confused with older toolings and collaborations, as it's a different animal. It arrives in a standard box with a fetching painting of the subject matter ploughing past ruined German armour, and inside are four sprues in dark green styrene, one in grey styrene, two lengths of insulated cable, a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, two rubbery tracks, decals sheet and the instruction booklet. The tooling is well-detailed, and as well as the rubber tracks there is also a full set of link-and-length styrene tracks, which should please almost everyone. What will also please many is the inclusion of a complete interior, even down to the engine compartment, the parts for which are on the grey sprue, so may have been a later addition. Construction begins with the lower hull, which has slots for the suspension, and circular holes for the drive sprockets, which are glued together from two halves, and fitted to a cone-shaped moulding with a cap inside to allow you to leave the idler movable. The suspension units are added to the inside of the hull with springs in diagonal housings, comprising two sections on each side, leaving enough room for the engine, which is next. You don't get a full engine, but the detail is plenty for the installation. The firewall has the engine top slotted into the back, and the aft of the engine with big fan is attached to the aft end of the top panel. The exhausts and large fan are glued in place, and the assembly is dropped into the hull, locating on tabs in the floor. The final drive housing is built up and dropped in behind the engine, and a set of ammo boxes double as a turret floor in the centre of the hull, with the driver's controls fitted at the front with some rather arm-chair style seats for driver and bow gunner. A scrap diagrams shows the correct position for the tools, controls and air bottles, after which the suspension and wheel set are glued in place, with nice detail on the wheels and their treaded rubber wheels, which are moulded-in. They fit onto swing-arms with stub axles in pairs that fix into two holes each in the sides of the hull to ensure the correct angle. The idler wheels are also added at this stage with their axle, two-part sprocket and hub cap holding it in place, and allowing it to rotate too if you're sparing with the glue. The final drive cover fits from underneath, with a note telling you to install parts 38A after adding the towing cable later, and then you can choose which style of tracks you'll be using. The rubber-band tracks are the simple option, and are moulded in a gun metal plastic that can be glued using super glue (CA). You can even forego painting them if you hate that sort of thing. The more complex option is to use the included link and length tracks, which have more detail, and will leave you with the correct faceted appearance where the tracks wrap around the ends of the runs. The top sections are each moulded as one piece, the bottom sections in two parts, while the curved sections are individual links, which are each made from two plates. More care will be needed for this option, but the results will be improved, and even more so with careful painting and weathering. The upper hull needs 11 small holes drilling out before you begin its assembly, mainly for the later mounting of fuel tanks, so get those out of the way before things get busy, or you might regret it. The louvers for the engine deck are inserted from the inside, and the hull is then turned over and detailed from the topside, with a central engine hatch and a big radiator box on top of the aft louvers, which has a two layer PE grille glued over its aperture after gently bending it to fit the curve of the box. Another two boxes with louvered parts are added to the sides of the engine deck, and a little tool box gets added to the starboard fender at the rear, then spare track links are assembled and lashed down with PE straps, with an additional length pinned across the glacis plate. The glacis plate also has the ball machine gun mounted and the large driver's hatch, which can be fitted open or closed and must have been a bullet-magnet when open. This is then fitted to the hull over the inner front panel, the turret insert is added, and three fuel drums are fixed to the hull sides along with some pioneer tools, more stowage, lights and shackles glued in place, with an overhead diagram showing their correct location. The two hull halves are married up, the front fenders added, and yet more barrels, this time smoke dischargers are added to the rear bulkhead skin, which is a separate part. The armoured exhausts are assembled and fitted to the apertures on the skin, and a central access hatch can be modelled open or closed. The whole rear bulkhead can be posed open on its hinge-points, and a PE lip is included on the brass sheet to give this a more realistic look. The exhaust pipe tips sleeve onto the main exhaust during the closing process, although the break-point looks slightly different from the pictures I have seen, so if you want to add a little more realism, drill out the ends of the pieces and add a collar near the end of the fixed part of the exhaust that comes out of the mufflers. The tip that is visible outside the tank already has a hollow end, which is nice. As yet the tank is turret-free, so the next steps rectify this with a full breech, ready rack holding 12 rounds, sighting equipment with gunner's stool attached, and the relocated radio gear, as well as a couple of periscopes in the roof. The commander's hatch has a periscope built into the front half, and can be posed open by gluing them into the ring in an appropriate position, then mating them with the cupola ring. This and the gunner's hatch are fitted to the top of the turret along with a couple of mushroom vents, various tie-downs and rails, while the mantlet with cover, two part styrene gun barrel and cheek armour are added during the mating of the top and bottom sections. These cast turrets weren't put together with extreme care, and the joints are sometimes horribly rough, so check your references and decide what they look like in the flesh. The turret has a nice sand-cast texture moulded-in, as does the mantlet, rear bulkhead and final drive panel. The barrel is split horizontally, so there's a seam to fix there, and once that's in place, the turret fits to the hull, locking with a bayonet fitting. The last job is to create the towing cables from the two insulated wires that are included in the box. You cut them to length, twist the strands as you slide off the insulation, then glue the styrene towing eyes to each end, draping them over the fenders and attaching them on the shackles as indicated. Markings There are four decal options from the box, all of which are painted Russian/Soviet Green, and one is over-painted with white winter distemper camouflage. Each tank has unit markings, as well as some additional markings and emblems. From the box you can build one of the following: 9th Guards Tank Corp, 2nd Guards Tank Army – Berlin, Apr 1945 64th Guards Tank Brigade, 1st Guards Tank Army – Pomerania, Feb 1945 44th Guards Tank Brigade – Yugoslavia, Spring 1945 2nd Motorcycle Tank Battalion, 1st Tank Corp, 2nd Polish Army – Jul 1945 The decals are printed by Zanchetti in Italy for Italeri, and have good sharpness and colour density. They are all either black or white, so there's no issues with registration either, as there isn't any! Colours are called out in Italeri acrylic paint codes, as well as FS numbers, which should be a help if you use another brand. Conclusion It's nice to see Italeri moving with the times, including PE and metal towing cables with their kits, and options to please modellers with different needs, such as the two track options here, and with this being a popular subject it should sell well, particularly with their wide distribution network. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  8. Reading back through the chat I realised I originally signed up for GB in 2013 with the plan to build a Hudson. My entry for this GB is Italeri 1/72 Lockheed Hudson, will be finished a 500 Squadron aircraft in the classic Dark Sea Grey / Dark Slate Grey over White.
  9. Italeri is working on a brand new - 100% new moulds - 1/32nd Lockheed F-104G/S Starfighter kit! Source: http://www.primeportal.net/models/thomas_voigt6/italeri/ V.P.
  10. After the Lockheed F-104AC & G/S Starfighter (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234954473-132-lockheed-f-104ac-starfighter-by-italeri-released-victory-models-decals/ & http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234912123-132-lockheed-f-104gs-starfighter-by-italeri-released/), here are the two-seaters Starfighter to be released by Italeri in 2016 2017. Source: http://www.italeri.com/imgup/Preview%20Italeri%202016(1).pdf - ref.2509 - Lockheed TF-104G Starfighter AMI Source: http://www.aviationmegastore.com/lockheed-tf104g-starfighter-ami-2509s-italeri-it2509s-aircraft-scale-modelling/product/?action=prodinfo&art=134765 - ref.2512 - Lockheed TF-104G Starfighter Source: http://www.aviationmegastore.com/lockheed-tf104g-starfighter-2512s-italeri-it2512s-netherlands-military/product/?action=prodinfo&art=134764 V.P.
  11. 3 Down, 3 to go in my Canberra project This time, its a Vietnam-era US cloned Canberra all set to attack the Ho Chi Minh trail: Not a lot I can say about this kit, it builds very easily, doesn't need any filler and clearly shows the differences between the US variant of the Canberra and the British B(I).8, which was intended to fill much the same role. Italeri provide a good representative 500 & 750lb bomb load showing just how much of a bomb truck this aircraft was. No pilots though, so I have added a Matchbox navigator and Airfix pilot to fill the open (but nicely detailed) cockpit. Flaps and air brakes are open, as provided for in the kit. ... and finally, all 3 (thus far) lined up. I will need a bigger board to photograph them on when the next one is finished: FredT.
  12. Finished the CMP at last, (delayed by moving house half way through the build). Depicted as part of the 2nd Bn, Royal Ulster Rifles, France 1944. On now to do the figures, then the diorama. Apologies if the photos are a bit naff; combination of a cheap camera phone and half a glass of scotch.
  13. Hello, I recently acquired an Italeri ATR-42 and I already an F-RSIN kit under construction. I know of all the criticism on the Italeri kit but I wanted to give it a try.. On comparing the parts though I found out a huge difference in the cabin section (not mentioning the wonky nose shape). I'm now just curious to know who is right: unfortunately all I could find searching around are INTERNAL cabin dimensions, which are very useful to sell the product but not so interesting for us modellers. Anyone would happen to know the fuselage external height and width of the ATR series?
  14. Well in between painting sessions on the BPBC and things being a bit fragile to transport I took this into the Model club on thursday night to start and I nearly had it done in a couple of hours while chatting and building with good friends only a few bits to add before painting and it comes with a couple of funny looking crew figures Hmm one looks familiar with that mask beefy
  15. "So, where are we?" Black primer does this picture no favours really! This is pretty much the full extent of my work on the Mitchell Gunship to date, I've modified some figures, added some greeblies to the barren, superbly fitting (& utterly fictional) cockpit, oh and I've glued the wing halves together.....It's a pretty simple kit but I'd still hope this will be deemed less than 25%? PS - Just discovered I have also assembled the engines (four whole parts) and painted them a vaguely enginey colour too.
  16. Introduction This thread was started intending to unite those interested in building the Fiat 806 based on thorough research and photogrammetry. See also the great Fiat 806 Gangshow build album. In the current thread there will be (at least I hope people will post) extensive research on the original car, photographs, drawings, literature and archives. Beside that the thread will feature scratchbuilding progress based on the findings. Perhaps in the future there could be exchanges of resin molded scratch parts, just like Vontrips kindly did with the tyres (for example: body panels / grille?) Index To start off I have gone through all of the Gangshow topic and I indexed all knowhow (see end of this post). Best way to use it: click a link, go back and click the next link etc. Or open the links in a separate browser tab. Each link represents one post only, so it's better to only read that post, come back to the index and click the next link. The index was created having in mind those who are about to work on a certain subject, such as the steering wheel. For the index, see end of this opening post. Visual reference material First a legal disclaimer. All images are used for educational and referential purposes. Copyrights lie with the copyright holders. Centro Storico Fiat is probably the original copyright holder of many of these images. Centro Storico's website can be accessed here and here. It has a Facebook page here. Be sure to have a look at their great collection of photos of classic Fiat and Lancia cars. Centro Storico also has frequent Twitter updates featuring photographs, see here. Drawing 6 was found here. All copyrights of the photos / screenshots 10-19 lie with Cinecitta Luce. My presentation of the low-definition photos on this forum is just for reference and educational purposes, for the purpose of a hobby. I do not have a corporate license for the use of these images. If at any point in time Cinecitta Luce wishes these pictures removed I will remove them upon first request. The pictures are not to be reproduced on another website or another written work. Please, all, respect Cinecitta Luce's copyrights. Their website is to be found here. All rights to Photo 9 lie with Fotogeca Gilardi, see here. There you can inquire about the cost to purchase a license of a full-scale version of Photo 9. Important: some pictures, such as Photo 1, Photo 2, Drawing 2, Drawing 3 and Drawing 6, are larger than shown here. To enlarge, right-click on the picture and choose 'open new tab', then click on the picture on the new tab. Update 31 July 2018: there are now so many pictures in this post that it's very difficult to navigate. To restore overview I left out several images that are less important. 28 out of 67 images remain. All images are still available for download here. Photo 1AAA Photo 2 Photo 3 Photo 28A Photo 4B Photo 6B Photo 7F Photo 8B Photo 9 Photo 10 Photo 12 Photo 17 Photo 21 Photo 23B Photo 24 Photo 25 Documentary These are the contents of the documentary (references in this overview), insofar most relevant for the Fiat 806. A full transcription, with correct chronology, is to be found here. 01:01 - Fiat 806 (#15), front view, being cleaned. Grille shape, car width, front wheel camber, steer linkage, tyre width, manual crank opening position, suspension position, metal wind shield are shown. No number '15' visible on radiator or bonnets. No dent (compare photo 9) visible. There is symmetry in bonnet bulges. 03:14 - Fiat 806 (#15) is pushed toward the start line, for the start of heat 2. All numbers '15' have been applied. There is no dent in the radiator housing. Moments after this video was filmed, Photos 4 and 10 were taken. 03:22 - Fiat 806 (#15) is seen from the left, close-up. The 'rear wheel louvres', exhaust pipe-to-body connector, steering wheel, seat (with rain cover?), gas cap, left hand body lining, glass window, mechanical windshield and rear number '15' are seen up close. 05:12 - Close-up of the Fiat 806 (#15). The left bonnet and part of the '5' is seen. There is a rain cover over the glass window. 05:15 - Low side view of the Fiat 806 (#15). This is the lowest view we have of this car to date, which makes it very valuable to assess the height of the wheels in comparison to that of the body. This is final proof that the body was indeed significantly lower than Drawing 1 and the kit would imply. Left to the Fiat, there is the Bugatti 35C (#24) driven by Aymo Maggi. Only one umbrella is up so there can't be too much rain at this point. 05:22 - The start of the final heat. The Fiat 806 is gloriously captured spurting away. Two days ago someone said in this thread 'what I'd give to have seen this care race'... probably this is as close as we're going to get at that. It is great to be able to witness this wonderful day in September 1927. For our research this scene is relevant mainly because Bordino steers his car a bit, so that it is seen from different views - in ONE camera shot. That is very fortunate. 05:41 - At Curva Sud, the Fiat 806 is seen in first position. 07:07 - Fiat 806 is seen up-close, from the right side this time. The glass screen is now very well seen. Also the tyre pattern, for example. The metallic windscreen is seen as well. Drawing 1A Drawing 2F.1 Drawing 2F.2 Drawing 3 Drawing 5 Drawing 6 Engine Drawing 1 Engine Drawing 2 Engine Drawing 3 Engine Drawing 4 Engine Drawing 5 Engine Drawing 6 The hereunder index is updated up to & including: November 10 2016 BODY AND GRILLE - Hood hinges, see also here and here and here and here and here - Replacing the louvres, see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - Grille color, see also here - Body color, see also here CAR GENERAL SHAPE RESEARCH, INCLUDING PHOTOGRAMMETRY - General body shape photogrammetry, see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - Comparing two photos, see also here - Body should be lower (and other changes), see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - Grille changes, see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - Cutaway drawing accuracy, see also here and here[ and here CHASSIS, FRAME AND SUSPENSION - Amending springs, see also here and here and here - Turning dampers, see also here and here GENERAL KNOWLEDGE ON CAR AND TECHNIQUES - Colors, steering wheel, windscreen - Engine, radiator, grille - Color of rails, see also here - Photos of pre-war race cars details, see also here - Article about vintage car paint, wired wheels et cetera - 3D-printing, see also here and here - Upcoming 1:1 Fiat 806 replica? ENGINE - General engine corrections, steering idler arm correction, see also here and here and here - New filler cap - Engine sump, see also here - Casting engine covers, see also here and here - Spark plugs, see also here and here and here and here - Plug leads and wiring, see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - Fill certain gaps?, see also here and here and here and here - Correcting cylinder head ends - Correcting PVC tubes, see also here - Collector tubes?, see also here and here and here and here and here - Correct stand 121D - Valve springs EXHAUST - Exhaust issues - Color of exhaust INTERIOR, EXCEPT STEERING WHEEL - Gear shift - Instrument panel: turning gauge bezels, see also here and here and here STEERING WHEEL - Steering wheel boss replacement, 12 or 16 holes in wheel, see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - New spokes - Transparent part, see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - General steering wheel amendments, see also here Ignition timing lever and brodie knob, see also here and here and here and here and here and here - Steering column, see also here WHEELS AND DRUM BRAKES - Spoke count, see also here and here and here - Respoking and nipples, see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - Spoke color - Drum size photogrammetry - Comparison Protar and Italeri wheels - Color of drum brakes and wheels - Creating a mold - Newly cast tyre, see also here and here - Replacement drums, see also here and here and here and here and here - Adding cooling vents to drums and here
  17. In 2017 Italeri will reissue the following aircraft: Source: https://www.italeriusa.com/product-category.php?comingsoon=1 V.P.
  18. Sukhoi Su-34 Fullback Italeri 1/72 This is a bit of a blast from the (not to distant) past. It's the first model I built on getting back into the hobby in early 2012. At the time I hadn't really built a model in 20+ years apart from a couple of AMT Star Trek kits in the mid 90's and this build marked a number of firsts for me. 1st time using an airbrush, 1st time using acrylic paints (Vallejo in this case), 1st use of Alclad and 1st time using an after market etch set (although in the end, I hardly used any of it). I was aware that there were a few issues with the kit but I didn't want to get bogged down with trying to make corrections when this was the first aircraft I'd done in 22 years, I just wanted to get it done without making a complete pigs ear out of it. In the end I did make a few additions, mainly the door in the rear cockpit bulkhead and a crude attempt at the boarding ladder on the nose gear. The colours are pretty much approximations and far from accurate but at least it looked like a Fullback (just about) and the main thing was I enjoyed the build immensely and it hooked me back on modelling. I'd like to think I'd improved a little since then and I'd certainly do some things different if I built another but it's still one of my favorite builds and sits right in the middle of my display cabinet Hope you enjoy the shots Thanks for looking Andy
  19. Is decals from Academy and Italeri as bad as often mentioned in build reviews and "in the works" or should those decals be handled in an different way than most decals? Is there something many builders miss when working with Academy, Italeri and Roden decals? What's behind those bad experiences? Cheers / André
  20. Hi, This is my work this year. I builded without big accessories, only clean box with small accessories. I only used HGW safety belts and a back seat from the old jeans. Bleached car spray - acrylic paint and at the end 4 layers of Polish lacquer with UV filter.
  21. The first aircraft is an Italeri re-box of the Hasegawa kit and the second is the Hasegawa in 1:48. The first aircraft is also my first attempt at mottling. I would love to say the second aircraft was my first attempt at smoke rings but Italeri provided these as decals and if you look closely you can see the spray pattern. Well done Italeri.
  22. Dear fellow Britmodellers, this is my 1/72 Italeri Macchi 205 from 1a Squadrilla, 1. Gruppo Caccia based at Campoformido in February 1944. Decal markings from the box. I painted the smoke-ring camo with Gunze/Mr,.Hobby acrylics using LF Vinyl masks (M7213). These masks fit well on plain surfaces, but not on curvatures (such as the wing/fuselage joint). Some touch-ups were neccessary. I added MPM seatbelts and True Details resin wheels. All photographs by Wolfgang Rabel of IGM Cars & Bikes. Thank you very much for your interest in this topic. The model will be on display for "Bella Italia", a special exhibition on Italian technical designs at GoModelling Vienna in 2019. Kind regards, Roman
  23. Hello everyone. Here is my Italeri Junkers Ju 88A-4 built OOB back in 2002. The decals came from an Inscale sheet on Finnish Ju 88s. It represents JK-254, "3", 1/LeLv44, of the Finnish Air Force, Finland, in June 1944. The main scheme was painted with airbrush using Tamiya paints. According to the decal's instructions, the RLM70/71 greens were reversed. I built this kit before I knew what RLM71 really looked like so the shade used isn't correct. Thanks for looking and all comments are welcome. Miguel
  24. Hi All, Here's the much lambasted Italeri Bergepanther kit. It's my first Italeri kit and I won't be rushing to get more, but it was very cheap and whilst it's been made clear that it's not accurate I quite like the way it looks. Lots of sink marks some of which I missed but I'm over it. Completely OOB apart from the AA mount,P/E Grilles and a few spare tools. The cannon was rarely fitted but adds to the appearance I think. There are a couple of million part Takom kits on the way which I'm sure will be much better but in terms of enjoyment this was one of the best £18.99s I've ever spent. Usual C&C welcome Cheers David
  25. Hi all. Please, let me show you my lastest finished kit. It's the old Italeri's Junkers Ju52/3m, in airliner colours. It's actually a comission build, ordered by a gent whose father used to fly these planes regularly. He wanted an OOB kit, with no weathering at all. I've finally managed to build it in a few evenings. He's going to take it away next friday morning. I hope you'll l IMGP0001 by Arturo Navarro, en Flickr IMGP0005 by Arturo Navarro, en Flickr IMGP0002 by Arturo Navarro, en Flickr IMGP0004 by Arturo Navarro, en Flickr
×
×
  • Create New...