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  1. The TKS is almost finished, so it's time to start the next project. I've decided to work on the gun truck I got a few months ago. For more detail I got the resin/PE detailing kit made by Legend Productions: Sprues: Detailing kit: See you soon.
  2. Italeri is to release a new tool 1/48th Lockheed-Martin F-35B Lightning II kit - ref. 2810 Not a bad news considering the only other available 1/48th F-35B kit is the Kitty Hawk one. Now we'll just need a better F-35C. Source: https://www.italeri.com/uploads/news/AY8p8Mc4VebT1GVJ5SVhR0wRFuvMlyG6nbu5dgSD.pdf Box art V.P.
  3. Introduction This thread was started intending to unite those interested in building the Fiat 806 based on thorough research and photogrammetry. See also the great Fiat 806 Gangshow build album. In the current thread there will be (at least I hope people will post) extensive research on the original car, photographs, drawings, literature and archives. Beside that the thread will feature scratchbuilding progress based on the findings. Perhaps in the future there could be exchanges of resin molded scratch parts, just like Vontrips kindly did with the tyres (for example: body panels / grille?) Index To start off I have gone through all of the Gangshow topic and I indexed all knowhow (see end of this post). Best way to use it: click a link, go back and click the next link etc. Or open the links in a separate browser tab. Each link represents one post only, so it's better to only read that post, come back to the index and click the next link. The index was created having in mind those who are about to work on a certain subject, such as the steering wheel. For the index, see end of this opening post. Visual reference material First a legal disclaimer. All images are used for educational and referential purposes. Copyrights lie with the copyright holders. Centro Storico Fiat is probably the original copyright holder of many of these images. Centro Storico's website can be accessed here and here. It has a Facebook page here. Be sure to have a look at their great collection of photos of classic Fiat and Lancia cars. Centro Storico also has frequent Twitter updates featuring photographs, see here. Drawing 6 was found here. All copyrights of the photos / screenshots 10-19 lie with Cinecitta Luce. My presentation of the low-definition photos on this forum is just for reference and educational purposes, for the purpose of a hobby. I do not have a corporate license for the use of these images. If at any point in time Cinecitta Luce wishes these pictures removed I will remove them upon first request. The pictures are not to be reproduced on another website or another written work. Please, all, respect Cinecitta Luce's copyrights. Their website is to be found here. All rights to Photo 9 lie with Fotogeca Gilardi, see here. There you can inquire about the cost to purchase a license of a full-scale version of Photo 9. Important: some pictures, such as Photo 1, Photo 2, Drawing 2, Drawing 3 and Drawing 6, are larger than shown here. To enlarge, right-click on the picture and choose 'open new tab', then click on the picture on the new tab. Update 31 July 2018: there are now so many pictures in this post that it's very difficult to navigate. To restore overview I left out several images that are less important. 28 out of 67 images remain. All images are still available for download here. Photo 1AAA Photo 2 Photo 3 Photo 28A Photo 4B Photo 6B Photo 7F Photo 8B Photo 9 Photo 10 Photo 12 Photo 17 Photo 21 Photo 23B Photo 24 Photo 25 Documentary These are the contents of the documentary (references in this overview), insofar most relevant for the Fiat 806. A full transcription, with correct chronology, is to be found here. 01:01 - Fiat 806 (#15), front view, being cleaned. Grille shape, car width, front wheel camber, steer linkage, tyre width, manual crank opening position, suspension position, metal wind shield are shown. No number '15' visible on radiator or bonnets. No dent (compare photo 9) visible. There is symmetry in bonnet bulges. 03:14 - Fiat 806 (#15) is pushed toward the start line, for the start of heat 2. All numbers '15' have been applied. There is no dent in the radiator housing. Moments after this video was filmed, Photos 4 and 10 were taken. 03:22 - Fiat 806 (#15) is seen from the left, close-up. The 'rear wheel louvres', exhaust pipe-to-body connector, steering wheel, seat (with rain cover?), gas cap, left hand body lining, glass window, mechanical windshield and rear number '15' are seen up close. 05:12 - Close-up of the Fiat 806 (#15). The left bonnet and part of the '5' is seen. There is a rain cover over the glass window. 05:15 - Low side view of the Fiat 806 (#15). This is the lowest view we have of this car to date, which makes it very valuable to assess the height of the wheels in comparison to that of the body. This is final proof that the body was indeed significantly lower than Drawing 1 and the kit would imply. Left to the Fiat, there is the Bugatti 35C (#24) driven by Aymo Maggi. Only one umbrella is up so there can't be too much rain at this point. 05:22 - The start of the final heat. The Fiat 806 is gloriously captured spurting away. Two days ago someone said in this thread 'what I'd give to have seen this care race'... probably this is as close as we're going to get at that. It is great to be able to witness this wonderful day in September 1927. For our research this scene is relevant mainly because Bordino steers his car a bit, so that it is seen from different views - in ONE camera shot. That is very fortunate. 05:41 - At Curva Sud, the Fiat 806 is seen in first position. 07:07 - Fiat 806 is seen up-close, from the right side this time. The glass screen is now very well seen. Also the tyre pattern, for example. The metallic windscreen is seen as well. Drawing 1A Drawing 2F.1 Drawing 2F.2 Drawing 3 Drawing 5 Drawing 6 Engine Drawing 1 Engine Drawing 2 Engine Drawing 3 Engine Drawing 4 Engine Drawing 5 Engine Drawing 6 The hereunder index is updated up to & including: November 10 2016 BODY AND GRILLE - Hood hinges, see also here and here and here and here and here - Replacing the louvres, see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - Grille color, see also here - Body color, see also here CAR GENERAL SHAPE RESEARCH, INCLUDING PHOTOGRAMMETRY - General body shape photogrammetry, see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - Comparing two photos, see also here - Body should be lower (and other changes), see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - Grille changes, see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - Cutaway drawing accuracy, see also here and here[ and here CHASSIS, FRAME AND SUSPENSION - Amending springs, see also here and here and here - Turning dampers, see also here and here GENERAL KNOWLEDGE ON CAR AND TECHNIQUES - Colors, steering wheel, windscreen - Engine, radiator, grille - Color of rails, see also here - Photos of pre-war race cars details, see also here - Article about vintage car paint, wired wheels et cetera - 3D-printing, see also here and here - Upcoming 1:1 Fiat 806 replica? ENGINE - General engine corrections, steering idler arm correction, see also here and here and here - New filler cap - Engine sump, see also here - Casting engine covers, see also here and here - Spark plugs, see also here and here and here and here - Plug leads and wiring, see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - Fill certain gaps?, see also here and here and here and here - Correcting cylinder head ends - Correcting PVC tubes, see also here - Collector tubes?, see also here and here and here and here and here - Correct stand 121D - Valve springs EXHAUST - Exhaust issues - Color of exhaust INTERIOR, EXCEPT STEERING WHEEL - Gear shift - Instrument panel: turning gauge bezels, see also here and here and here STEERING WHEEL - Steering wheel boss replacement, 12 or 16 holes in wheel, see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - New spokes - Transparent part, see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - General steering wheel amendments, see also here Ignition timing lever and brodie knob, see also here and here and here and here and here and here - Steering column, see also here WHEELS AND DRUM BRAKES - Spoke count, see also here and here and here - Respoking and nipples, see also here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here and here - Spoke color - Drum size photogrammetry - Comparison Protar and Italeri wheels - Color of drum brakes and wheels - Creating a mold - Newly cast tyre, see also here and here - Replacement drums, see also here and here and here and here and here - Adding cooling vents to drums and here
  4. Hello there. My latest build - an Italeri 1/32 F-104G from the Danish Air Force in the 70’s, build as my entry to the F-104 GB here on BM. And no, it’s not a post shading session gone wrong. The Danish fighters of that era weathered heavely due to fragile paint. It’s the Italeri kit build almost OOB except for a resin jet nozzle, a metal pitot tube and decals from Stoppel Decals. I closed everything up, as i think the weathered paint scheme is interesting in itself. It’s only my third 1/32 kit, but i really enjoy paint an weather on a larger surface. I’m quite happy how it turned out, so i hope you will find it interesting as well. Thanks for stopping by.
  5. My first kit completed this year - AV-8S (VA-1) Matador, 1:72 Italeri (ex-ESCI). My 5th Harrier so far! Built out of the box (except for Pitot tube from Master, resin ejection seat from Pavla and some scratch). Italeri's kit is old and needs some work, but I'm quite happy with a result. Thanks for watching!
  6. Well, after totally ruining my 3 month build of the Italeri Alfa Romeo 8C 2300 Monza (see below), it's got hidden away in a box until I can pluck up the courage to look at it again without crying. I've decided instead to have a go at spoiling a different Alfa kit I have in my stash instead, an Alfa Romeo 179C. This next build will probably be of the 179C that was driven by either Mario Andretti or Bruno Giacomelli back in 1981. My original plan was to have an Alfa Romeo racing car from the early days and one from nearer to today. Unfortunately, due to my ham fistedness with an airbrush and unfortunate accident with a Q-tip (do NOT ask!), its now just going to be the later car! As per usual, I'll be totally ignoring the order of build as advised in the instructions and so will probably end up with lots of containers all awaiting detail painting! I'll be using Zero Paints to apply the finishing colours but first a lot of research has to be done as I'll probably be adding and amending parts as I go along if the 8C was anything to go by! Build progress photos to follow - when I actually do make some progress!
  7. Fancied a change from my usual WW2 dioramas, and attempted a motorcycle model for the first time in years! Just finished this excellent 1/9 scale MV Agusta from Italeri. Probably a reboxed Protar offering from years back but very good nonetheless. The seat lacked texture and the real thing was quite a thick creased leather, so I added some tissue paper to replicate this. Most of the chrome was removed using bleach. All chassis parts/engine/wheels etc. were painted using AK's excellent Real Colour marker pens, which is more like colouring in than painting! Bodywork sprayed with Tamiya Italian Red and BMW met grey rattle cans. The fairing isn't attached yet so may look a bit 'droopy'.
  8. First Italeri's aircraft announcement for 2025. A reissue with new decals expected in late December 2024. - 1/72nd - ref. 1476 - Sikorsky HO4S-3 /HAS.7/H-19 Chickasaw Source: https://www.martola.com.pl/en1878/produkty118587/sikorsky_ho4s_3__has_7_h_19 V.P.
  9. This purchase started out as a way to use the spare tyres from my MX5 project and escalated into being part of a set (maybe a diorama... ) along with the Aoshima Brian James Trailers A4 Transporter and the mystery side project that won't be getting a WiP. I've split this and the trailer into separate threads because, from conversations I've had on here and reading @Anteater's WiP, there are going to be some 'challenges'. The tyres I modelled for the MX5 are about 32" and so I'm going to need a 2" lift kit to get clearance on the Rangey. As the OOB chassis seems to be the cause of most of the problems, I'm going to model a new one that hopefully fixes the issues and has separate suspension components, so I can offer it as a 'fix kit' with standard or lifted ride height. So I've started this kit by doing the absolutely most important thing... WHEELS! The OOB ones are pretty rudimentary and probably 15in (might be 16in, I can't remember), which won't cut it as the MX5 tyres are for 17in wheels. I was thinking of what would be a sensible aftermarket wheel for an early 70s 4x4 and decided the only way to go is steel 8 spokes. So I knocked one up. Because the original Rangey wheel has a very pronounced centre, I did a bit of research into series 1 hubs. From what I can see, they're the same as Land Rover ones, which makes sense. The 8 spokes are flat at the fastening point, so I modelled front and rear hub 'protrusions' that can be added as appropriate. I also did separate tyre valves, 'cos they're really hard to paint. I left the wheel nuts as part of the main wheel because it makes for a stronger component overall. I had a bit of a revelation when I painted the wheels, because I used a black base instead of white, which is what I generally throw under silver to make it 'brighter'. This is ProScale Paints Z-Tune Silver (I think) and using the black really helps with definition in the finished wheel by making the shadows darker. Makes sense, really. Don't know why it hadn't occurred to me before. Here's a final photo of the new wheels and tyres against one of the OOB items. I will paint the wheel nuts and there will hopefully be all kinds of weathering going on by the end of this build. Thanks for looking! I'd probably give it a couple of months before coming back... although I might put the interior together... I need to do that so I can model the new chassis. It's not going to be a quick one, though. Cheers! Martin
  10. Hello all, Here is my take at the Italeri Macchi C.205, which is quite a nice little kit. Typical Italeri material, in the sense that the plastic is rather soft (so easy to work with), fit is poor in places (requiring some filling and sanding) and the level of detail is average to pretty good. Construction was mostly out of the box, with just a few Eduard PE parts (designed for the Hasegawa kit) added in the cockpit and gear wells. Also added were a Quickboost air intake and vacform canopy/windscreen from Falcon. I wanted to build my Veltro in the original delivery scheme of "Nocciola Chiaro 4" over "Grigio Azzurro Chiaro 1", so I mixed some Tamiya paints to get the look I wanted. The black and white identification bands are also all airbrushed. Weathering was completed with oils and pigments. I used a set of Tigerhead decals for this build, not including this particular airframe though but an Egyptian aircraft in different livery. I am not convinced that the roundels are the correct size, especially those on the wings, and the arabic numbering is not entirely accurate either. The "K" characters are from the spares box. All in all, I am more than happy with the end result though. Credits background picture: Freepik https://www.freepik.com/free-photo/beautiful-hay-field-country-side_17240056.htm#page=2&query=open field distant mountains&position=5&from_view=search&track=ais Thanks for looking, comments always welcome! Cheers, Patrick
  11. I intended to build this kit box stock, as an antidote to having to scratch build everything. Here are the bits that aren't OOB.... I always try to make something out of the correct material, because there's no better way of getting the right colour and texture. for example aluminium. I hate painting leather, so this is the first change to the stock build... I found some thin, stretchy black leather Deepened the grooves in the seat and covered it with two pieces, glued incrementally into each crease with CA. I tested the CA on the leather first, as I have had it bleed through and ruin it. Here's the back side which will be hidden (thankfully) (Edit) And then I found this photo, with a different seat cushion. Ho hum. Next to fall victim were the brake drums. As they're round, I can turn them on a lathe AND use the right material (aluminium) Spot the new one! The exhaust tube walls are too thick, so I used brass tubing, first to make a collar to locate the new tube and then the end itself. Normally I'd replace the whole thing, but then this kit is being built box stock.... That'll do for now....
  12. Hi all and dropping in the Danger Zone with this one, the classic 'black jet-AKA-bad-guys' Mig 28 from Top Gun. Will be OOB build of this one Italeri F-5F Tiger, - pictures (and more cheesy script) from the movie to follow later. Good luck with your builds. All the best, Dermot
  13. These are a few recent builds of 1/72 scale Typhoons. All carrying Centenary celebration schemes. 29(R) Squadron Centenary Typhoon FRG.4 ZK353. ZK353 was marked with Typhoon Display Team corporate logos as well as commemorating 100 years of 29(R) Squadron. The aircraft was flown throughout the 2015 display season 6 Squadron Centenary Typhoon FGR.4 ZK342. In 2015 ZK342 recieved a scheme to commemorate the centenary anniversary of 6 Squadron. The tail and spine were covered in a desert camo scheme representative of that worn by the unit when operating Hurricanes during WWll Xl(F) Squadron Centenary Typhoon FGR.4 ZJ925 In 2015 ZJ925 was painted in a scheme to commemorate the Centenary of XI(F) Squadron. The tail and spine was black with gold squadron Crest and carried the code DXI. The aircraft was used on normal operations and also deployed on exercise to Kenya and Turkey
  14. I don’t anticipate this being a very long or detailed thread, but not having built an Italeri kit for a few years I wonder what people’s views are on their quality and accuracy today? Please don’t assume that I am expecting such accuracy that a completed kit looks exactly like a reduced in size actual subject, I understand there are limitations posed by scale eg thickness of trailing edges, but are Italeri kits such that from a reasonable distance they pretty much look like the subject? The two kits I have are their F-35b and S-55 Chickasaw, the former a fairly recent tooling and the latter a 2000 kit reissued, presumably from the original tools. I intend to make the Chickasaw (Whirlwind in UK) in Austrian Air Force livery. I’m not afraid of a bit of sanding, filling, and cutting to correct gross errors!
  15. Finally getting around to posting some photos of the completed Volvo FH-16 Globetrotter XL. The model has been completed as a fantasy truck for Subaru Rally Team Australia. A detailed wip thread can be found here for those that may not have seen it. The model is completed with Tamiya spray cans, has a resin right-hand dash and spare Tamiya Subaru Impreza WRC decals for the livery. This is my first truck build and I found it an enjoyable challenge. Lots of parts with aspirational fitment called out in at-times vague instructions. The end result was pretty much what I hoped for so very happy overall. The inspiration for the model was a photo of a transporter hauling a trailer-load of WRC rally cars. My ever-failing memory believes it was an M-Sport transporter full of Foucs WRCs off to Europe somewhere. Being a Subaru fan and Australian I decided to transpant the idea. It helped that Studio27 at one stage released decals sets for the Imprezas run by Subaru Rally Team Australia in the 2001Rally Australia, while Colorado-Carpena did generic door and rally plates for the same event. Add in a Revell Car Transporter and a few fantasy support vehicles and in the blink of a few short years you have:
  16. This is my first proper model build since the 1970s and with hindsight choosing the largest British aircraft of WW2 that I could think of was probably not my brightest idea! But, almost two years after starting, with a lot of lessons learned and I like to think some new model building friends acquired along the way, here we are. WiP, if anyone is interested: On 18th December 1941 Short Stirling L6086, named MacRobert's Reply and coded LS.F of XV Squadron, based at RAF Wyton, was loaded with four 2000lb AP bombs and a single 250lb GP bomb to mark their fall, for a daylight raid against the German warships Gneisenau and Prinz Eugen in the harbour at Brest. The crew were credited with a near miss on the Gneisenau and with downing a defending Bf109 fighter. For this the pilot, PO Peter Boggis, received the DFC. Here is my depiction of their aircraft about to be bombed up. Unfortunately the corner of the house with the least background clutter also has the worst light and my photographic skills are not great. But I could not resist... Thanks for looking. Onwards and Upwards! Murray
  17. Hi, My first build in 2025 is Italeris SBD-5 Dauntless in colours and markings of an SBD-3 from 1942. Watched "The Midway" and got urged to do an SBD-3, but only SBD-5 in 1:48 was available to me at the moment. Italeris plastic was terrible to work with... too soft, a lot of flash. Some large pieces were deformed and fitting was a nightmare. Instructions were mostly unusable. This was my third Italeri kit in the last year and all were made from terrible plastic. Made a mistake with the decals. First I applied decals that weren't good size and then I applied new decals over the first ones and they are a bit translucent in white areas so you can see the old ones. My laziness, no excuses. I might overdid the zinc-chromate chipping... it wasn't my original intention.
  18. Having been lurking on this forum for quite a few months now, and occasionally adding my own ramblings to other people's topics, I have finally worked up the courage to start a WiP of my own. My main interest is the RAF in WW2, at the moment particularly the aircraft of Bomber Command. So having had a short break from model making, of almost half a century , earlier this year I acquired these: This first post is a bit of a test run to see if my 20th century brain can cope with the 21st century technology of photo-sharing. If it all works I have a back catalogue of photos taken over the last six months or so and I'll be sorting and posting from that, which might give the illusion of amazingly rapid progress. Once I've caught up I'm sure it will become apparent that we should be using the geological time scale to measure my work rate! No proper sprue shots in this thread. I think we all know what they look like and by the time I got myself organised a lot of mine looked like this: That's enough of my waffle, let's hit Submit Topic and see what happens!
  19. This is my 1/48 F-4F by Italeri, in the colours of JBG36 at Rheine Hopsten. It's an old Testors rebox. Not the best in accuracy, but still a fun build. I used Mr. Hobby lacquers and Vallejo acrylics. Decals used were from Caracal (F-4F in Norm 81 camouflage). Kind regards, Gerben
  20. Hi all. Been some time since I posted a proper scale armor build in this subforum, so here we go. First completed 1/35 AFV since end of 2023. This is Italeri's T-34 in the Korean War boxing. In the US, the kit is priced similarly to the RFM T-34, which is generally considered to be the best on the market. So what do you get in the box? This is a reduced version of Italeri's full-interior T-34 kits. That was fine with me, as I don't really get the appeal of AFV kits with full interiors. But if you're buying this because you want to build each of the stations, and an engine, you'll find yourself disappointed. You get some basic bulkheads and some turret/gun details, but that is about it. You get SOME of what you might expect on a post-war T-34. There are separate roof vent domes, you get smoke pot canisters for the back, angled front fenders, and from just eye-balling it - a "fuller" turret bottom. But Italeri only gives you the solid wheels. Too bad, since many, though certainly not all, North Korean and Chinese T-34s were fitted with the spider style wheels. Italeri would have also expanded the range of options by adding the handful of parts needed to build a Chinese modified T-34 (Type 89 I think they called it?) with the raised loader's hatch and DshK mount. In terms of detail, this kit is okay, but not great. There are no weld lines on the hull and the welds on the turret are very basic. The turret cast texture is a little pedestrian looking, and there is no texture on the hull parts. You get A PE engine grill mesh that looks nice, but the four vent grills further forward are molded solid, which looks okay, but is another missed opportunity. The finer details are fine, but few. There are PE straps for the track grousers on the hull sides, but I left these off my tank, as I don't know if I've ever seen them on in a historic photo. The tracks are link and length and look nice. Italeri also give you rubber tracks, if you prefer. There are a few marking options for North Korean tanks, which all feature large white turret numbers. There is also one Chinese PLA option, which I chose. The decals are FANTASTIC! Thin, stretchy, strong, and with great adherence. All in all, not a terrible model, but somewhat basic. I give it a solid C, mostly because it was very much overpriced. The kit is probably on par with the Academy T-34s in terms of quality and detail, but is priced like an RFM kit. I understand that a lot of the price is set by Steven's International setting the import price, so maybe it is a better bargain elsewhere in the world. I painted the model in standard Mr. Surfacer black base-coat and then applied lightened shades of some sort of greens. The base painting happened a while ago. So I don't remember. But I applied lighter colors at the top surfaces and at high points as if a single light source was over the tank. I paint my armor after they are fully assembled. The lower hull and tracks were painted with a black/brown mix, and then some green was misted onto the wheel faces. Tyres were semi-dry-brushed with a dark gray. Weathering was kept simple and included a dark brown enamel pin wash, and acrylic filters of vallejo dark sandy and earth brown colored paints suspended in matte medium. Some steel was drybrushed on the track. Now, how about some pictures?
  21. Hi everyone. Whilst I am waiting for paint to dry on my other build, I decided to start working on something else, rather than playing Diablo. I chose Italeri's 1/72 scale UH-1D Slick, which is the reincarnation of the ESCI tool from 1981. Despite its age, the kit has a lot of fine detail, some of which will be actually pretty awkward to keep if I want to hide join lines. Surprisingly, the kit has recessed panel lines, and the instrument panels are represented by decals, which is unusual from Italeri. So far I have only cut off parts from sprues, prepared surfaces, drilled a few holes into the floor panel for the seats, and built the engine and rotor. Nothing worth posting pictures of. I am planning to do the US Army, 116ASC Wasp Platoon, tail number 674 from the Vietnam War 1971. If some of you know a secret image gallery with detail photos of said helo/platoon, I would be very grateful if you could share it with me. Search engines have never been dumber since AI got introduced... Thanks for looking. Szilard
  22. I build this little kit as I got a taste for 1/35 maritime subjects when building the Italeri Schnellboot. So it doesn't feel too alone, I got htis little companion ... Some little issues, but nothing really to worry about. (see my VERY short WIP here: Out of the box, with a little bit added detail for the cockpit and deviating from the painting instructions for the torpedoes. and the added cammo on the periscope iaw an original photo I found ... The two Navy guys came with the kit ... and the details to the cockpit ... As always, thanks for looking and all comments welcome. Cheers
  23. Italeri is to release a new tool 1/48th Macchi MC.202 Folgore kit - ref. 2840 Expected in 2025. Source: https://www.italeri.com/en/?pvw=1&p=1&fbclid=IwY2xjawH3m6hleHRuA2FlbQIxMAABHQKPQWQay3WnPsd7HPRFsbYJDYrP3vxXRE31jfbL3ZMrtjGAwTGcTxH1jQ_aem_oRl5IXZn7Ma3tqCVn3zjZg V.P.
  24. Italeri is to release a new tool (another one...) 1/48th Lockheed Martin F-35A Lightning II - beast mode - kit - ref. 2836 Source: https://www.italeri.com/en/?pvw=1&p=1&fbclid=IwY2xjawH3m6hleHRuA2FlbQIxMAABHQKPQWQay3WnPsd7HPRFsbYJDYrP3vxXRE31jfbL3ZMrtjGAwTGcTxH1jQ_aem_oRl5IXZn7Ma3tqCVn3zjZg V.P.
  25. Italeri is to release a new tool 1/32nd MRCA Tornado GR.4 kit in 2018-2020 - ref. 2513 Source: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235015790-news-italeri-2017/ V.P.
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