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Found 24 results

  1. Hi! I'm starting a new build of Takom's fantastic Panther kit. It has a full interior included and very thorough detailwise. I have an ABER set to it, which has all the goodies including aluminum barrel, brass MG barrels, antennas etc. There's also MasterClub tracks, Eduard Panther interior set, Tamiya brass shells and Aber shackles. Some of the aftermarket aren't really necessary, but on the other hand, why the hell not. The details are very crisp and so far the kit goes together really nice. Nothing much has done yet. I'm at the point to get the first paint on it to get the lower hull sides and bottom together. Sorry about the crappy images. We had a rare occasion of sunshine this time of year here and there's a lot of light and shadow on the photos. Cheers! Kristjan
  2. Does anyone know of or have a clear image of that area to the right of the pilot's seat? Is that section just a crawl area for the crew to get into the nose or did it have some kind of jumpseat for the navigator to assist the pilot? I await. Chris
  3. One of my parallel projects, other than the Marder I in another post, is this Tamiya Wespe. I started building the driver's compartment and improving the fighting compartment details some 2 years ago then put it on shelf. Thanks to the new Marder I, I brought it down from the shelf to be painted along with the Marder. Here are some construction pics from before. The driver's compartment benefited greatly from the gearbox taken from Dragon panzer II. The gearbox would be almost a waste hidden in a panzer II anyway. The rest of the compartment was detailed up with plastic sheet, part from spare box and some scratch-built items. The fighting compartment walls were detailed up based on photo from Nuts & Bolt excellent book on the subject. Nanond
  4. Dear All, One of my next projects will be the Revell 72nd scale F4U-1A Corsair which, whilst not as fine as the Tamiya equivalent, looks to be a good kit and at less than half the cost of the latter. The kit itself has two decal options, one for a Marine Corps unit in December 1943 and the other a Navy unit in February 1944, one of which I will be using, and both have the same colour scheme shown which has a mixture of white with blue/grey outer wings panels for the undersides. However after searching this site via Google and also referring to an article on interiors colours in the October 1981 edition of SAM I'm slightly confused about the correct colours for the wheel wells, engine cowling, oleos and the internal sides of the undercarriage doors. Some suggest that all would be in the external colour, so white in this instance, yet others refer to the use of chromate yellow unless it compromised the underside colour? I've checked my SAM publication on the Corsair (MDF 18) and pics of preserved examples in the US show white being used for the wheel wells, oleos and undercarriage door inners (including the tail wheel doors) but as museum pieces don't always get it right can I safely assume this to be correct? Other pics in this book show chromate/zinc yellow primer being used in the gun bays, engine cowling/bay and inner tail section, with interior green for the cockpit all of which I'd expected. Regards Colin.
  5. Hi Pals, Hi Pals, I end this kit, which has been quite enjoyable to build and paint, which includes a fairly decent interior and which I decided to do, although in this specific case, not much is seen, even with the hatches open, if we disassemble the turret, something else if it is visible. I have tried something new with this model (the truth is that I almost always do it ... lol), since I continue learning and improving what I already know how to do, and that is that the internet is a very useful resource, since it is not possible for me to share with nobody the hobby in person (now, even less). Oils are definitely something very useful when it comes to painting, and even weathering on models, and it is also the first one with which I use satin varnish, trying to get a feeling of something "metallic", which I think is achieved by impacting the light in certain parts, I hope the photos show it, because in my hands, if I can make the mental abstraction that "it is not plastic" ... lol Thank you all very much for watch and comment, and for the tips that have corrected at least a couple of errors (there are 2 less ... lol), I hope you like it. Cheers and TC Francis. BLACK BACKGROUND White background
  6. So this has been my big lockdown endeavour, the 1/35 Meng 505th King Tiger with full interior. A real labour of love and a solid project to work on. I would recommend to all, but be careful with the fit of the hull as the 'scale thickness' armour means that it is very tight to secure over all of the innards. As I was working I decided I wanted a little base to display it on, which then morphed into a few figures to denote scale, which then became a lot of figures and what is almost a full diorama! My initial set of photos (apologies for the poor quality/ composition) and happy to take more if anyone is interested:
  7. Hallo again This Königstiger was a Takom kit with full interior. It was my first battlefield tank with full interior. The recovery Panther was my first one. Actually, it is very fascinating to work on such a kit. It is like a WingNut Wing kit. Really. The parts are all well done, good detail and accurate. Lots of grasping is sometimes needed, but this is good so. The instruction is well done. I think, you may ask about my painting. Actually, I only build tanks fresh from maintenance or repair shop. Not battlefield worn. This I dislike most, because I have seen such vehicles battlefield worn, but here I see only the pain and misery. So I leave it out by all means. Happy modelling, stay health!
  8. Hallo again Well, this is my second interior kit. My lessons learned from my Bergepanther G is the following: Do not get lost in detail in your first session. Check out all parts, which make up the main body. Check the rear wall with sidewalls in the engine compartment. Here is one of the lousiest flaws! If the sidewalls do not properly fit with the rear bearing for the tension axle, the game is a horror. Check out, that the gluing surface really fits at the bottom of the sidewall. The intersection with the rear bulkhead is also a point of major conflict. So I tested all this with the upper hull and got a green signal. Well, it is a quite simple action ahead. Since I am used WingNut Wing kits like the Fe2b, so this interior kits are a challenge to do something different for a while, after almost 25 years of aircraft. See you again. Stay health. Happy modelling
  9. Uh oh...new obsession I'll never finish anything.....
  10. Hi, all! Looking carefully at Mirage 4000 1/72 Modelsvit, I suddenly discovered that I had absolutely no information about him cockpit electronic bay. My interesting detail colour equipment inside cockpit electronic bay. Why I doubt the colors offered Modelsvit in assembling? Because, Modelsvit in assembling offers paint detail canopy frame as Humbrol 127: Really? Serious? It's Humbrol 127 inside canopy??? Next "funny" moments with Mirage 4000 1/72 Modelsvit. Look on this photo very-very carefully: It only seems to me, that the canard , ailerons and the wing zone above main wheel bay have stencil & white element on canopy: ??? Probably it's standard sencil "NO STEP" on French language. Of course, these stencil are not a Modelsvit decal.... That's why I want to double-check the Modelsvit assembling from the photo of the real Mirage 4000. Any help??? Resource photo: Wikipedia, Airwar....and first thing that came across in the search for Google for Humbrol 127... B.R. Serge
  11. Hi Gents I know the subject has been treated but i would like to know if someone can do a reliable synthesis for the colors of: - Interior (cockpit, turret): Raf Grey-green. - Undercarriage bay: Aluminium or Raf Grey-green ? - Undercarriage : Aluminium/black or Raf grey-green/black - Flaps (interior): grey-green. for a Mk.1 or Mk.1f. Do you know where i can find a plan with rivets lines (book, internet) ? Thanks a lots Best regards Pierre
  12. Hi everyone, I guess it is time for my first build here on the forums. So couple of weeks ago my family decided to get me a surprise gift for all the work i put into studying and it arrived today to my dormitory. The plan for this one is to make a diorama of crew at rest around the tank relaxing in a bit what if scenario. Maybe the countryside? or a dirt road by the field. I am not a big fan of my family wasting so much on me, literally spoiling me but I have to admit, I am impressed they know me so well and they picked all my favorite tanks from the second world war. The box itself is huge. It was at this moment it occurred to me that I might require a bigger desk than my current one. The box art in my opinion seems a bit minimalistic for Trumpeter but still looks neat. (The ruler by the box has 30cm) Upon opening the box I was greeted by a lot of plastic. The kit is made of more then 1500 parts and might take a while to build. First part of the build is the lower hull and the suspension. Just looking at the suspension assembly makes my head spin around, and tracks do not help either but i am still looking up for it as it will be a satisfying job. So here is the progress so far. There will be also a separate topic for the Takom Tiger II soon because i like doing 2 to 3 models at once just so I can breathe from one project working on another
  13. I'm currently building the Airfix 1/24 scale FW190A-5/6 and would like to partially scratch build the interior framing. I only intend to put on the framing on the panels around the engine, as they will be left off, and inside the rear fuselage where the radio is stored. Those of you who know the Focke Wulf 190 A series will know about the rather large hatch just aft of the cockpit on the left side. I'm going to display my aircraft with this hatch open, and thereby the interior of that part of the fuselage will be visible. Which plastic rods are best to do the framing in 1/24 scale please? I'm also going to insert the Airfix electric motor to turn the prop.
  14. T-60 PLANT No.37 EARLY SERIES. INTERIOR KIT 1:35 MiniArt The T-60 was the result of the ongoing development of light tanks that had started well before WWII. This particular tank started development in 1938 as an attempt to replace the T-26, T-40, the failed T-46 project and the T-50. Whilst such a large number were produced, it was hated by all who had to deal with it – all except the Germans, who found it to be a substandard and underwhelming opponent, and a rather nice ammunition carrier or gun towing tractor, once captured. As a result of its poor armour, substandard armament and sluggish performance, it was more dangerous to its crews than anybody else, earning it the title Bratskaya Mogila Na Dovoikh, literally: “a brother’s grave for two.” The basic design was completed in a mere fifteen days, and Astrov, seconded by Lieutenant Colonel V.P. Okunev, wrote to Stalin contrasting the advantages of the mass-producible T-60 with the more complicated T-50, which had already received the go-ahead. An inspection from a senior minister resulted in two decisions: firstly, the 12.7 mm (0.5 in) machine gun was to be replaced with a 20 mm (0.79 in) ShVAK, although it was still inadequate against the Panzer IIIs and IVs that the T-60 would almost certainly engage whilst there was a shortage of T-34s. Secondly, the Main Defence Committee (GKO), headed by Stalin, ordered 10,000 T-60s to be produced immediately. Some sources have claimed that Stalin’s interest in the vehicle is because he attended the vehicle’s final trials in person. The displacement of the Soviet industry in 1941 disrupted production and further refinement of the T-60. In autumn, Zavod Nr 37’s work on the T-60 was transferred to Zavod Nr 38 at Kirov and GAZ in Gorki. Shortly after, industrial evacuations continued, and GAZ was the sole producer of the T-60. In 1942, the T-60’s frontal armour was increased to 35 mm (1.37 in), which was still inadequate and made the tank more sluggish. The GAZ-203 engine gave the T-60 theoretical speeds of 44 km/h (27 mph) on road and 22 km/h (14 mph) off-road, but this was always difficult to achieve as a result of horrifically bad mud and snow. Replacing the spoked road wheels on the 1941 model with all-metal disc wheels, especially as a result of rubber shortages, did not help alleviate this problem either. The development of removable track extensions also did little to help mobility. Finally, any attempt to increase the calibre of the gun proved difficult. There were attempts to replace the main gun with a 37 mm (1.45 in) ZiS-19 or a 45 mm (1.77 in) ZiS-19BM, but proved unsuccessful as a result of the small turret. By the time a redesigned turret with the ZiS-19BM had passed trials, the T-60 as a whole was cancelled with the introduction of the T-70 in late 1942, although 55 T-60s were produced in 1943. The Germans would use captured tanks under the designation Panzerkampfwagen T-60 743(r), and the Romanians would modify 34 captured tanks into TACAM tank destroyers in 1943 armed with captured Russian 76mm divisional guns housed in a lightly armoured superstructure. These vehicles were confiscated by the Russians when Roumania changed sides ins 1944. The Model The kit comes in the fairly standard, yet sturdy and colourful top opening box MiniArt use, with an artists impression of the vehicle on the front. Inside there are thirty three sprues of varying sizes, mostly small, in a medium to dark grey styrene, along with one sprue of clear styrene, two small sheets of etched brass and a smallish decal sheet. As with most MiniArt kits there is a huge amount of detail contained on the sprues and in this one there are 490 parts, including the etched brass. The mouldings are superb with no imperfections and very few moulding pips. Some of the smaller parts, and there are a lot of them, do have a fair number of sprue gates, but fortunately they are relatively small and shouldn’t cause too many problems. The sheer number of parts is explained by the fact that this kit is equipped with a full, and I mean full interior, which for a model/vehicle this size will mean you will need a magnifying glass/Optivisor when building. The build starts with the lower hull floor, to which the drivers position is attached, complete with detailed gearbox, levers and brake drums. Then there is the comprehensively detailed engine, which is a model in itself, and has more parts than some whole kits, around 22 in total. The two batteries and battery tray are then added to the left hand side of the hull adjacent to the drivers position, followed by the right side panel which is fitted with a fire extinguisher and four support brackets. The rear bulkhead is fitted out with several parts on the outside, before being attached to the lower hull, as is the lower glacis plate. The engine assembly is then glued into position and connected to the gearbox via a couple of drive shafts. The interior is slowly built up with bulkheads, ammunition racks with spare ammunition drums and boxes and another fire extinguisher. The left hull panel is then attached, along with the outer drive covers, idler axles, internal longitudinal bulkhead and several pipes. The upper hull plate is fitted with several panels before being glued into place. The drivers hatch is made up from five parts, while the drivers vision block is made up from six parts. Both assemblies are then glued to the driver position, and can be posed either open of closed. Depending on which colour scheme the modeller has chosen there are two options for the style of headlights to be used. The suspension arms are then glued to the hull, followed by the road wheels, return rollers, drive sprockets and idler wheels. The engine cover is next made up of three plastic and two etched grille pieces. This is then glued into position on the top deck, along with the drivers access and viewing plate. The tracks are each built up from eighty five individual links, which, unfortunately are not click able, but have to be glued, making it a little more awkward to get the sag and fitted around the idlers/drive sprockets. But with plenty of patience and care they can be made to look the business. The track guards are fitted with many PE brackets, as well as storage boxes, pioneer tools and a nicely detailed jack. These are then fitted to the hull and the build moves on to the turret. There is a large PE grille fitted to the rear engine deck along with a PE surround. There are two covers that go over this if winterising the vehicle, each plate is fixed with four to six PE wing nuts. While the turret is very small there is still plenty of detail packed into it. The turret ring is fitted with commander’s seat, ready use ammunition locker, plus traversing and elevation gearboxes and hand wheels. Inside the turret itself there are two four piece vision blocks, spent ammunition plug, vent cover, the breech and sight for the main gun which is slide through the trunnion mount, as is the three piece co-axial machine gun. The turret roof is fitted with a two piece hatch and before it is glued into position the machine gun ammunition drum is attached and the spent cartridge chute to the main gun. The roof is then attached, as is the outer mantlet and barrel cover of the main gun. The turret is the attached o the hull and the build is finished off with the fitting of more PE brackets around the hull and the engine exhaust glued into position. Decals The small decal sheet contains markings for eight tanks. Captured tank, unidentified German Unit, Eastern Front 1942. Captured tank, unidentified German Unit, Eastern Front, Spring 1943. Unidentified Red Army unit, 1942. 52nd Red Banner Tank Brigade, 9th Army Northern Group forces, Transcaucasian Front, Dec 1942 Unidentified Red Army unit, Winter 1942/3. 171st Separate tank battalion, 4th Assult Army, Kalinin front, Holm, Jan/Feb 1941. Unidentified Red Army unit, spring 1942. 64th Tank Brigade, 21st Panzer Corps, 6th Amry South Western Fron, Kharkov Offensive, May 1942 Conclusion This is another amazing kit from MiniArt and brings yet another lesser known military vehicle to the mainstream modelling community. With the numerous parts count and the large number of very small parts, this kit is really aimed at the more experienced modeller, but looks like it should build up into a superb model, absolutely full of detail, so much so that there shouldn’t be any need for aftermarket parts. Review sample courtesy of Miniart - Distibuted in the UK By Creative Models
  15. I just came across this, looks like a third company investing into the panther, and its interior. From the specs given, it looks to be a seriously detailed model. I am now stuck between a rock and a hard place... Between investing in the 1/16 panther, takom's panther(s), and then RMF's (I didnt include Meng since it doesn't include a full interior). https://www.flickr.com/photos/140207497@N02/24167237737/in/dateposted-public/
  16. So here is my (pretty much) finished Takom King Tiger! Bought for me for Christmas and I've enjoyed every minute of the build. It was built out of order sort of and the idea was taken from a video I watched on YouTube so I cannot take the credit for the idea on how to display this. Paints used were Ammo by Mig King Tiger set and Tamiya. Primer was ultimate black Primer. All I need to do now is get a wooden base for the thing and maybe add some steel to the track cleats. I've done minimal weathering on this and finished it as a clean build. Thoughts welcome!
  17. Hi everyone, I am about to start my Airfix B-17G and would like to know if it would be alright to follow the instructions and paint almost all of the interior sidewalls, etc. in aluminium to resemble unpainted natural Aluminium. I somewhere here read a thread about B-17 interior colors some time ago but can't find it anymore. IIRC the general outcome of the discussion was that B-17s could have appeared in almost any combination of painted and unpainted interior sections. Would it be likely for a late B-17G like the Airfix "Skyway Chariot" to have been left unpainted inside - regarding side walls and bulkheads? My second queston is about the interior green itself - Airfix instructions say Humbrol 195 Dark Green. I would like some opinions about Airfix' choice of color and maybe a recommendation for alternatives because I do not have 195 amongst my Humbrol cans. Ingo
  18. Afternoon All, I recently acquired the Aeroclub 1/72 De Havilland Venom FB1 and FB4 kits with the intention of building them as RAF machines from 249 (FB1) and 28 (FB4) Sqdns. I'm looking to see if anyone has some decent cockpit interior images so I can add some detail to the cockpit interiors? Anything you can provide me with would be gratefully received! Thanks in advance, Mark.
  19. The C-47 that served in Europe with the various TFWs, did they still retain the seats along the inside interior or were they removed so only cargo was carried. If seats were still in place which ones were used as there are 2 different types in the Airfix kit. About to make a start and it would save some time if I did not need to put the seats in. Also were they painted in Interior Green or left unpainted. TIA Robert
  20. U-Boat Crews for Interior Sections 1:72 CMK To compliment the new interiors designed for the Revell 1:72 Type IX U-Boat, reviewed HERE, CMK have also released two sets of crew members to man the interiors. Although we have only had two sets released, I’m sure that there will be more, as there are quite a few more interior sections that ill need to be brought alive by having crews installed. The first set, F72253, is for the command section and includes two officers and one crewman. Each is set in a particular pose, so you can’t just buy more of the same set to increase the numbers of men in the section, but they do come with separate heads, so at least you can have them looking at each other or particular controls etc. They very well moulded, but, once they have been removed from the moulding blocks you will still have some cleaning up as there is quite a bit of flash, particularly between their limbs. The second set, F72254, is to man the galley section. They have quite distinctive poses, one working on the stove, one checking a gauge or hand wheel and one picking up a box of provisions. Two are wearing chefs aprons, one standard overalls, and again, all have separate heads, one with a chef’s cap whilst the other two have standard brevet caps. CMK also provide a frying pan, a box, (with the lifting man’s hands moulded onto it), and a utensil I can’t quite identify. The picture on the blown poly pack shows quite a bit of space in the galley, which isn’t really the case, so while it may show how cramped it is, it might be an idea to use the box carrier in another section of the sub. Conclusion It’s great to see CMK releasing these sets, as even though the interior sections are superb in their own right, the ability to have crew members manning each section is a wonderful idea and will bring the whole thing to life. Yes, the painting of each man will be a little taxing, but it’s good to have a challenge every now and then. Very highly recommended. Review samples courtesy of
  21. Type IX U-Boat Interior Sections 1:72 CMK Soon after Revell released their 1:72 kit of the Type VIIc U-Boat, CMK produced several interior sections for it so that modellers could build a cutaway model, adding quite a bit of interest to the finished article. Well, now they’ve done the same for the 1:72 Type IX U-Boat kit. The five sections we have been sent, (there are others), are all moulded in grey resin and come complete with some etched parts and a micro saw for cutting the model sides open. Whilst the resin parts are beautifully moulded, there is quite a bit of cleaning up to do, especially from the moulding blocks for the larger parts. There are a lot of parts that go up to make up each section, yet the modeller is still required to provide some wire or plastic rod to finish them off. All sections will need to be carefully marked out on the kit hull before cutting out, fortunately CMK have thought about this, and rather than just giving a set of measurements they have provided a template for each section that is cut out and laid over the hull. N72011 – Front Torpedo Section. Containing over 32 parts this is the biggest of all the sets and comprises basically three areas/zones. The torpedo loading area, showing the foreward bulkhead, the rear of four torpedo tubes, complete with all the ancillary pipework, air bottles and fittings. The floor of the torpedo handling area with a torpedo made up of two resin parts and completed with etched fins and propellers lying in a recess. The port side wall of the torpedo handling area is also where some of the crew are accommodated on six bunks which requires the modeller to make up the bunk supports with wire. Etched parts are included for the addition of various hand wheels, light fittings, valves and controls to the hull side and aft bulkhead. On the ceiling there are two rails and their respective supports for the moving and loading of the torpedoes, but there aren’t and chain winches, which will need to be scratch built. The aft bulkhead, if the section is to be used on its own, should have its access hatch closed, but if used with the next section along it is possible to have it posed open. If you’re going to be using the torpedo loading kit that is available, then the hatch in the ceiling of the torpedo handling section can also be posed in the open position, giving the opportunity for a rather cool diorama scene. With all the sections and bulkheads assembled it makes for a strong rigid structure which will help with strengthening the cutaway hull. N72014 – Command Section. The heart of any submarine is the command and control section and this is represented here by a single section between the two provided bulkheads. The centre floor section is quite sparse with only the periscope housing and access ladder to the control tower fitted. On the hull side however, it’s a different matter, with a plethora of hand wheels, pipework, control boxes, lights, valves and claxon horns fitted. The floor adjacent to the rear bulkhead and side wall is slightly recessed. This is filled with more pipework and what looks like an air accumulator which is attached to a valve by a piece of wire provided by the modeller. The two bulkheads are fitted out with further hand wheels, valves and their access hatches, which as per the section above can be left open if two sections are joined together. N72015 – Foreward Crew Quarters. This is a very simple module, with on the floor, side wall, two bulkheads, and a couple of stacked lockers. One bulkhead is fitted with a hatch, whilst the other is fitted with a door, whilst the other details include more hand wheels, claxon horns, lights and a couple of pipes. N72016 – Captain’s & Officers’ Ward Room. Although stating that this is the wardroom it is also fitted with the enigma code room and radio room, both of which are normally enclosed with a curtain, which will need to be scratch built by the modeller. Within the floor, ceiling/sidewall and main bulkhead structure, you have bunks, stacked lockers, internal bulkhead, radio stack, enigma machine, stools, light fittings and claxon horns fitted. N72022 – Galley. This is naturally the smallest of all the compartments reviewed here, but it is full of equipment, showing how cramped the galley was and a wonder how they cooked anything for the crew of up to 56 men. Between the two bulkheads the floor is fitted with hotplates, ovens, sinks, and a host of associated pipework, hand wheels and fittings. On the ceiling/sidewall there are more hand wheels, air filter, tannoy speaker, and an unidentifiable fan housing like fixture. Conclusion The Revell 1:72 Type IX U-Boat was a very welcome release and there have been some fantastic builds seen on the internet and at shows, but these sets will allow the modeller to take it to the next level. If you have the courage to cut your kit open then these sets will make for an amazing looking model. You could go even further and enhance the sets with appropriate lighting and others in the series such as the torpedo loading and external sets. You will have some careful painting to carry out, but anyone who has the ability to use these sets shouldn’t have a problem with that. Very highly recommended. Review samples courtesy of
  22. Hi Everybody Have any of you wonderful people got/seen/know of any pictures/drawings ect. showing what's on the inner sides and floor of a Valentine when the turret is lifted out and some images from turret and transmision ? Could you share? I'm building an open hull and haven't got a clue what is between the driving compartment and engine when the turret isn't there. I have a part view of the right hand wall which seems to be bare but that's it .
  23. After receiving good advice about replacement engine grills for Revell's Routemaster bus, I figured it was time to pick the Britmodeller community's collective brain again! I've ordered some custom destination blinds, from fellow forumite 'wagoneer', but would also like to order some adverts for both the interior and exterior, suitable for the year 1978. The trouble is, I have no idea where to start looking for reference images or information. I've tried googling, but I always find it difficult coming up wih the right search terms to get the results I need. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions please?
  24. Ale85

    Il-2 colour

    My next project will be the Tamiya's Il-2 in 48th scale. I will build my kit oob but i have a doubt for the camo: can some one suggest me the best paint in Gunze's range for the three-tone camo in tan. green and dark grey??? And for the interiors? Could be right te RLM-o2 grey?? ciao Ale
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