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Finnish T-50 Infantry Tank HobbyBoss 1:35 History Advancing Finnish troops spotted T-50 tank first time in July of 1941 and later that same year succeeded capturing one of these rare tanks near Äänislinna/Petrozavodsk. It was one of the fifty tanks manufactured by Voroshilov Factory number 174 in Leningrad. The tank was repaired and taken to use of Finnish Army with tank-registry number R-110 in February of 1942. It was first issued to Heavy Tank Company (Raskas Panssarikomppania) of Tank Battalion, but as part of process expanding Tank Battalion to Tank Brigade it was transferred to 3rd Tank Company of Tank Brigade already in March of 1942. Later it was often used as command tank of the tank company. While the tank crew named their T-50 as "Niki", also nickname for it soon appeared and ended up spreading far and wide. This popular nickname was "Pikku-Sotka" (Small Pochard), which referred to its physical resemblance with larger T-34 medium tank, which Finnish soldiers had already earlier nick-named as "Sotka" (Pochard) after a tugboat of that name. This Finnish-captured tank was equipped with 14-mm thick additional armour plates attached with bolts to front hull and turret sides. It had a 45mm Psv.K/38 tank gun and two coaxial DT-machineguns. As to be expected maintenance of this one of a kind tank proved difficult, but still it remained in active use until 25th of June 1944. That day it was used as command tank during famous counter-attack of Finnish heavy (medium) tanks from Juustila to Portinhoikka during Tali-Ihantala battles. During this counter-attack the tank suffered serious technical failure (engine-failure), which the mobile repair shops of Tank Brigade were unable to repair. The next day it was sent to Centre Armour Repair Facility in Varkaus and apparently was never repaired. While the line T-50 wasn't in operational condition since June 1944, it still remained in armoured vehicle inventory listings of Finnish Army until year 1955. Nowadays this tank is in Parola Armour Museum. The Model The kit comes in the now standard style of Hobbyboss box, with an artists impression of the vehicle in battle with Russian forces, although it also depicts it fighting with another Finnish T-50 which as mentioned above is incorrect. Inside, there are ten sprues and three separate parts in sand coloured styrene, four sprues of brown styrene, two of clear, a sheet of etched brass and a small decal sheet. The parts are al beautifully moulded with some very nice details and naturally for a modern kit, no sign of flash or other imperfections, although there are quite a few moulding pips that need to be removed and cleaned up. The build begins with the assembly of the road wheels, each of which is fitted with a brass rim. The wheels are then paired up and fitted with a central hub cap. The idler wheels are assembled in the same way, whereas the sprockets are made up of just two parts. The separate upper hull has to have several holes opened up before using, then put to one side. The lower hull is then fitted out with the multitude of parts that included the bump stops, return roller axles and idler wheel fittings. The two part return rollers are joined together and attached to their respective positions, followed by the torsion bar suspension parts and sprocket gearbox cover. The road wheels, idlers and sprockets are now attached followed by the tracks. The tracks are each made up of individual links which also have separate guide horns are each glued together, so it would probably best to make them up as link and lengths allowing for some sag on the top section. Each side requires ninety three links to make up a complete length. On the underside of the lower hull there is a large hatch that requires gluing into place, whilst the rear mounted shackle pads and shackles are fitted. In the upper hull the two intake plates are fitted on each side of the inner engine deck, along with their associated baffles. On the outside of the upper hull, the drivers hatch and rear engine hatch are fitted. The track guards are then attached to each side of the upper hull and the additional armour plate fitted to the glacis plate. The upper and lower hull sections can then be joined together. The intake grilles and track guard braces, jack, front mounted shackles, pioneer tools and a selection of brass clamps and brackets. The turret assembly begins with the trunnion, it’s turret attachments, and fitted with one machine gun muzzle and one complete machine gun. The trunnion is then fitted to the upper turret part which is in turn fitted with the lower turret section. The turret is then fitted with the mantel, rear mounted hatch and additional side mounted armoured plates. The commanders hatch, periscope, and vent cover are then fitted, as is the main gun barrel. The hull is now fitted out with even more detail, including the fender braces, folding headlights, viewing ports, exhaust and two large brass intake grilles, which will need some very carefully rolling and bending to fit correctly. Two lengths of track, each six links in length are fitted to each side of the upper hull and a brass footstep fitted to the glacis plate. The turret assembly is then attached, completing the build. Decals The small decal sheet only provides a selection of Finnish swastikas, each in two halves to comply with some national laws. There is quite a lot of information on these tanks on the internet, so it shouldn’t take long to find a different scheme for your model, should you so wish. The single colour scheme is a mixture of Wood Brown, Sand Yellow, Red Brown and Russian Green splodges.overall. Conclusion Yes, it’s yet another small Russian tank from Hobbyboss. They are really scraping the barrel with this one though as there was only ever one captured T-50. I guess it makes sense to utilise the moulds as much as possible, and this tank is still extant in a museum. The tracks look awfully fiddly, so some modellers may wish to change them for Friulmodel metal tracks. Highly Recommended Review sample courtesy of

Soviet BA-6 Armoured Car Hobbyboss 1:35 History The BA-6 was an improved model of the previous version the BA-3. By 1935, the GAZ factory mastered the production of the domestic three-axle automobile GAZ-AAA. The Izhorskij factory quickly developed a new BA-6 armoured car based on this automobile. The hull, turret, and the location of ammunition, joints and equipment were essentially unchanged from those of its predecessor. The only visual distinction that identified the new car was the absence of a rear door, rear observation windows and a running board in the rear part of the hull. Also, the rear track increased to 1600 mm (for BA-3 it was 1585 mm); the distance between the front axle and the center of the suspension decreased to 3200 mm (vs. 3220 of BA-3); the distance between the rear axles was shorted as well, from 1016 mm (for the BA-3) to 940 mm. The new armoured car was the first to use bullet-resistant tires GK (porous inner tube), filled with porous rubber. Due to stricter weight control the mass of the car decreased to 5.12 tons without compromising any of the technical parameters. Between 1936 and 1938 the Izhorskij factory produced 386 BA-6 armoured cars. The Model Having released the BA-3 and BA-10 versions of the six wheeled armoured cars, it was only natural that they should also release the BA-6. Each of the three kits are essentially the same, with only minor differences. The kit comes in a top opening box with an artistic impression of the vehicle stopped next to a wooded area. Inside there are eleven sprues of beige styrene, the single piece body, one small sprue of clear styrene, two sheets of etched brass, twelve rubber/vinyl tyres and a small decal sheet. As usual for a Hobbyboss kit the parts moulding is really well done, with some nicely reproduced surface details, only a little flash, but no other imperfections and not too many moulding pips making for an easy clean up job. Whilst not a large model by any stretch of imagination, there are quite a few parts, many of which are small, so care with handling them will need to be exercised. Construction begins with the modification of the two chassis rails. Each of the rear ends need to be cut away, and whilst no measurements are given in the instructions the point is clearly marked on the rails themselves. With this done, three crossbeams are fitted between the rails, the rear one provided in three parts and forms part of the rear suspension. Each of the two differentials are assembled form two parts, onto which the two axles are attached. The two part universal joints are then added to each differential, followed by two suspension mounts fitted to each end of the axles. The leaf springs are then attached to the mounts, forming a solid unit with the axle/differentials, along with the anti-roll bars. The drive shaft connecting the two differentials is then slid into position. The completed assembly is then fitted to the chassis, along with a three piece storage box and the steering rack gearbox. The kit comes with a very nicely detailed engine made up of a two piece block to which the sump is added, followed by the cylinder head, crankcase, air intake pipe and coolant pipe. The two part bell housing is attached to the clutch plate housing before being fitted to the engine. This is followed by the fitting of the exhaust manifold various bits of pipework such as the exhaust pipe, auxiliary drive belt, cooling fan and the drive shaft. Rather unusually the accelerator pedal and clutch pedal are fitted to the top of the gearbox cover, complete with linkages and separate pedal pads. The completed engine/gearbox assembly is then fitted to the front of the chassis. The front wheel mount is made up of a three part triangular structure on to which the single cross-mounted leaf spring, along with its fittings is attached to the axle arm. Each of the two inner hubs are fitted with their ball joints and axle link before being fitted to the axle ends, followed by the steering rack between the two wheels. The front wheel assembly is then fitted to the chassis, along with two drop links, the three part silencer and exhaust end, and transfer box cover. Each of the ten wheels are made up of the outer hub and tyre, ensuring that the correct hub is used as there are three different styles depending on where they are fitted. With the wheels assembled they cna be fitted to the axles. The chassis and running gear are finished off with the fitting of the final drive shaft, and the rear suspension upper leaf springs. The body assembly begins with the fitting of the firewall bulkhead to the chassis which has oil and fuel filters attached, at the same time the large air filter unit is fitted to the engine. The main cab floor is attached to the chassis, ensuring the gearbox mounted pedals are carefully positioned through the gap in the floor. The handbrake leaver is then fitted, as are the gearstick and gear range selector. Each of the drivers and gunners seats are made up of the seat base, squab, backrest with associated supports, which when assembled can be glued into position. The instrument binnacle is glued to the lower coaming panel which is then fixed to the bulkhead. The steering column is carefully slid through the hole in the bulkhead and attached to the steering rack gearbox fitted earlier, and finished off with the steering wheel and indicator/light stalks. The upper coaming panel in then glued into positions, along with eh radiator and front mounted scoop like panel. With the above assembly put to one side, it’s on with the turret build. The turret is made up of left and right halves which, when joined together are fitted with the turret roof, rear panel, and front gun mounting panel. The outer mantlet is fitted with an moveable internal mount which is fixed to the mantlet via two trunnion mounts. The mantlet is then fitted to the turret, followed by the two top hatches, three eyebolts, periscope cover and ventilation mushroom. Before the single piece barrel can be fitted the barrel support bracket is attached to the mantlet along with a grab handle and two PE eyebolts. With the main gun and machine gun barrels fitted the turret is finished off with a small PE bracket which fits underneath the barrel support. Finally, we’re on the home straight, with the fitting of the drivers/gunners panel, complete with four part machine gun mount, to the front of the single piece armoured body. The body is then mounted to the floor/chassis and fitted with the rear armoured panel covering the drive train/suspension. This panel is then fitted with the PE number plate, whilst on the body itself the rear access door is attached, as is the PE rain channel above the left hand pistol port. On each side of the drivers compartment the armoured panels that protect the underside are attached. These are followed by the cooling louvers on each side of the engine compartment, two spare wheel mounts, two engine access panels and two armoured radiator doors. The large wheel arches that cover the rear sets of wheels are each fitted with PE strengthening strips on the inside before being mounted on the body. The drivers and machine gunners doors are then attached, along with the roof mounted hatch and front wheel arches. The vehicle is finished off with the fitting of the footstep supports, with PE steps, headlights, with clear lenses, taillights, radiator cap, front bumper, complete with separate number plate, grab rails around the rear of the body, three piece horn and last, but by no means least, the turret assembly. Decals The small decal sheet is sparse to say the least. What there are, are nicely printed and if previous experience has taught me, quite thin. The turret markings, for use on an overall green machine, include a unit badge and the dotted line that goes round the turret top. Care will be needed for this, not only to get it all level, but doing so without tearing it. The other two decals are for the drivers instruments. There are in fact three colour schemes shown on the painting guide, none of which are identified, but the first is obviously from the Spanish Civil War, with the distinctive red and yellow stripes in the turret, which have to be painted on. The plain green overall machine with the decal turret markings, and a striking three coloured machine, which I believe is of the Soviet Army. Conclusion There is something about these large armoured cars. They have an enigmatic air about them, as well as being slightly bonkers, as most of the interwar armoured cars seem to be. I’m currently building the Hobbyboss BA-10 armoured car, which is basically the same as this kit, and I can say that whilst it goes together well, it is needlessly complicated, with no short cuts available. That said, it does build into a great looking vehicle, although needing a big dose of patience and a steady hand. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

French VBL Armoured Car 1:35 HobbyBoss The VBL is France's answer to the light armoured car, which was quite forward-looking, as it was designed in the 80s with mine protection as one of the prime requirements along with efficiency, 4-wheel drive, NBC and small arms resistance. It was also engineered to amphibious and although it is by no means quick in the water, it still crosses rivers better than a HUMVEE if the bridge is out! As it is light, it is both fuel efficient and capable of being air dropped into the field, which makes it a very useful vehicle. Introduced in the 90s it has gone on to see service in many hot zones both in France's former colonies as well as with the UN banner on its doors. A surprising number of derivatives and variants have been created to fulfil different subsections of the light armoured car role, which is facilitated by a number of different body shells, plus a lengthened chassis. VBL stands for Véhicule Blindé Léger, which translates directly to light armoured car, and it is made in France by Panhard, a company with experience in this market and now owned by automotive giant Renault. The Kit A new tool from HobbyBoss' prolific armour stable, and arrives in one of their standard tight-lidded corrugated cardboard boxes. Inside are six sprues in an olive styrene, plus three separately moulded parts in the same colour, nestling inside a card divide with four "rubber" tyres, a small decal sheet, two identical clear sprues, and a simple Photo-Etch (PE) sheet. The instruction booklet is standard black & white fare, as is the two sided colour and decal instruction sheet on glossy paper. Detail in the box is excellent, with very complex mouldings of the upper and lower hull halves, the former having a nice texture on the anti-skid panels. Sliding moulds have been used throughout to improve detail, and you get a full crew-cab interior within the box, with the area forward of the firewall empty due to it being fully enclosed under access panels. These are supplied as separate parts however, so you could put your own power pack in there if you were minded. The lower hull is first out of the box along with the wheels, which have two-part hubs and rubbery black tyres, and a good representation of the steering, suspension and drivetrain, much of which is covered by an armoured shroud at the rear. The wheels glue onto axle stubs, and the interior is then started, adding seats, driver controls, equipment fit in the forward cab initially, then moving back to the rear with more equipment in the roof space and on the small floor area. The exterior of the upper hull is closed up with access hatches, although any of them could be left open if you wished, with the caveat of the engine bay, which as mentioned earlier is bereft of detail. Pioneer tools, spare fuel cans and the roof-mounted machine-gun ring are then added, which is all done before joining the two halves, but would be best done after for ease and lack of broken fine parts. once they are joined up however, the two large side crew doors are detailed, glazed and added to the apertures in the sides, with another at the rear that is decked out with more gear. The rear light-clusters sit below the floorline, and are mounted in wedge-shaped boxes with clear lenses of each light, needing just a coat of clear paint of the appropriate shade. Markings There are four markings options in the box, and as usual HB don't tell you much about them. In this case they tell you nothing at all, so I’ll provide you with some visuals instead. The decals are anonymously printed, and seem to have good register, colour density and sharpness, although the 4 in the orange circle looks a little too far over from an aesthetic point of view, but may mimic the real marking for all I know! Conclusion It's nice to see something unusual, and HB are prone to producing that from time-to-time. If you fancy something a little different from the modern Allied inventory, or have a fondness for French hardware, this should be right up your street. AMMO have coincidentally just release a paint set for Modern French Armour (A.MIG 7151) that might come in very handy if you use acrylics. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of

HobbyBoss is to release (rebox?) in 2016 a 1/72nd CAIC WZ-10 helicopter - ref.87260 Source: http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95825&start=690 V.P.

(The Ready for inspection thread can be found here.) This is the "Russian Navy SSGN Oscar II Class Kursk Cruise Missile Submarine" kit from HobbyBoss, in 1:350 scale. Length: 440mm Width: 52mm Parts: 143, inclucing 7 parts photo etch (PE name plate) (Most are missile parts probably) I had so much fun making my submarine models, that I might as well start on this one now. It is a little big for my Ikea "Detolf" glass cabinet, so I will have to get another cabinet soon, or I can at least place the model diagonally inside the cabinet for now. Please let me know if anyone knows how to best cover the openings around the glass doors in cabinets in general, so that dust won't enter in between the gaps when the doors are shut. I think I have seen some kind of brush-like tape, but I wouldn't know where to find such a thing. I think I will model this submarine with the hatches closed, for all the launch tubes. I am not a fan for having open panels on my models unfortunately. The painting scheme that come with the kit indicates a black and red color for the hull. The decals are few and small'ish. Unlike the Akula model, which comes with decals for a big white line around the hull.

NEW RELEASES FROM HOBBYBOSS NOW IN STOCK HBB83852 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Soviet T-28 Medium Tank (Welded) HBB83814 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - German Le.Pz.Sp.Wg (Sd.Kfz.221) Leichter Panzerspahwagen-Late HBB83866 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Hungarian 39M CSABA Armored Car HBB80140 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - German 2cm Flak 38 Pz.Kpfw .38 (t) HBB83817 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - German Sd.Kfz.223 Leichter Panzerspahwagen (1st Series) HBB83855 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Soviet T-28 Medium Tank (Cone Turret) HBB81750 - Hobbyboss 1:48 - BF 109G-2 HBB83859 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - French Saint-Chamond Heavy Tank - Medium HBB83878 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Vickers Medium Tank MK I HBB83867 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Leopard 2A4M CAN HBB83839 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Soviet BA-6 Armor Car HBB83828 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Finnish T-50 Tank HBB81752 - Hobbyboss 1:48 - SAAB J-32B/E Lansen HBB83870 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - IDF APC Nagmachon(Doghouse II ) HBB83844 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Soviet T-35 Heavy Tank (Late) HBB80137 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - German Panzer Kpfw.38(t) Ausf.G HBB80377 - Hobbyboss 1:48 - Me 262 A-2a/U2 HBB81741 - Hobbyboss 1:48 - AMX Ground Attack Aircraft HBB83833 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - US GMC CCKW-352 Machine Gun Turret Version HBB83837 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Soviet GAZ-AAA Cargo Truck HBB83876 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - French VBL Armour Car HBB81735 - Hobbyboss 1:48 - Hawk T MK.100/102 HBB81715 - Hobbyboss 1:48 - Chinese J-11B Fighter HBB80382 - Hobbyboss 1:48 - F4U-1 Corsair - Late Version Visit our website for more information. www.creativemodels.co.uk Keep upto date with us on our Facebook Page https://www.facebook.com/CreativeModelsLtd/

Note: The finished model can be found here. This is the "USS Los Angeles Class SSN-688/VLS/688i *3 in 1" kit in 1:350 scale from HobbyBoss. I think I did a great job getting that nice surface finish in the end with my other submarine model that I finished some time ago, and I hope I can repeat that success here. I am going for the oldest version here, as I kind of like the fins on the conning tower. Those fins are removed on the 688i variant. I have no interest in the VLS variant. First step will be to glue the two big halves together and try to get as good of a connection as possible, and then try to sand it all down to get the smoothest result. This is important, because any subtle gap between those two parts will show after having airbrushed the model. For color, I will try using Vallejo Nato Black this time, and not just black. Hopefully, the hull will be gray'ish enough for me to add some black Tamiya panel line accent color to make the details on the hull pop. As for the stand, although it is tempting to put a metallic color on it, I think I should simply go for piano gloss black, and sand off the letters on the photo etched name plate. That way the stand looks the same as with my other submarine models from HobbyBoss. The color scheme for this submarine is mostly hull red for the lower part, and black for the top side, with some kind of "spotted cow" pattern on the tower pieces. Looking at the schematics, there is a giant bull decal that goes onto the hull at the front, but I think I will not put it on the model.

1/48th Republic F-84F Thunderstreak by HobbyBoss in 2013 - catalogue ref.81726 Source: http://scalemodels.ru/modules/news/img_5748_1358082281_fe7282025aafa40f1fabea15ab64034f79f0190e.jpg.html V.P.

I'm calling this one complete, my 1/48 Hobbyboss FW-190D-9 of II/JG6 in May 1945. using Ultracast's seat and exhaust, Aeromaster decals,and some scratchbuilt detailing. Paint is Tamiya acrylics with oils and pastel weathering. Hope you like, Colin Link to build: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234996206-148-fw-190d-9-and-d-11-double-build-hobbyboss-re-painted-yet-again-march-18th/ Thanks for looking, Colin

Hi! Here's my 1/72 scale Huey Gunship It is built OOB, and painted using Gunze colors. Best regards Rune Haugen Norway

Kit manufacturer: Hobbyboss Scale: 1/48 Type: A-10 Thunderbolt II Extras used: Eduard canopy masks, Aftermarket decals, scratch built FOD covers Paints and colours used: Tamiya and Mr Hobby Finished today. Very much enjoyed this build, Finished in arctic aggressor camo, couldn't get the exact decals so its finished as a bit of a what if scheme. Slightly overdone the pre/post shading and the pva glue on the bomb lenses hadn't dried when i took the pictures. Anyway, here's the pics and thanks for looking

I've decaled both the FW-190D-9 and D-11 and clear coated them. Just the final weathering and the flat coat left. Hope you like, Colin link to build: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234996206-148-fw-190d-9-and-d-11-double-build-hobbyboss-re-painted-yet-again-march-18th/

I hope these photos will do, because I have dropped my model off at my local hobby store for their display stand there. They are lacking finished models in the maritime department so to speak. My WIP thread is here. This 1:350 submarine model from HobbyBoss was airbrushed with Vallejo Air colors, and I used five layers of Humbrol Clear for the gloss coats, making the surface smoother, covering the decals and for covering the Tamiya panel line accent color I added as a wash. Building and airbrushing submarine models is great fun! Only challenge is really to sand the two hull parts properly, so that there is no visible seam (or try to). It is also a challenge to keep the dust off the model at all stages of the airbrushing work.

New Hobbyboss Releases Due In April HBB83870 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - IDF APC Nagmachon(Doghouse II ) - £34.99 HBB81752 - Hobbyboss 1:48 - SAAB J-32B/E Lansen - £43.99 HBB83828 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Finnish T-50 Tank - £26.99 HBB83839 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Soviet BA-6 Armor Car - £29.99 HBB83867 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Leopard 2A4M CAN - £39.99 HBB80380 - Hobbyboss 1:48 - Me 262 B-1a/CS-92 - £16.99 HBB81750 - Hobbyboss 1:48 - BF 109G-2 - £14.99 HBB83859 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - French Saint-Chamond Heavy Tank - Medium - £29.99 HBB83878 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Vickers Medium Tank MK I - £34.99 HBB80140 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - German 2cm Flak 38 Pz.Kpfw .38 (t) - £29.99 HBB83817 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - German Sd.Kfz.223 Leichter Panzerspahwagen (1st Series) - £28.99 HBB83855 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Soviet T-28 Medium Tank (Cone Turret) - £34.99 HBB83866 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Hungarian 39M CSABA Armored Car - £29.99 HBB81736 - Hobbyboss 1:48 - Hawk T MK.127 - £27.99 HBB83882 - Hobbyboss 1:35 - Soviet BA-20 Armored Car Mod.1937 - £24.99 Check out the website for all the latest new releases. www.creativemodels.co.uk Follow all our latest news on our Facebook page https://www.facebook...ativeModelsLtd/

I started this build last year thinking it would be a relatively straightforward build to get me back into modelling after an enforced break due to a house move. Oh dear, I really could not have been more wrong! This is a lovely in the box, but due to Hobbyboss' determination to model all versions of the Mig 17, and by their adoption of a Hasegawesque approach with inserts, the fit is appalling! Needless to say I lost the will to continue after a few months of constantly filling, sanding and re-scribing, and despite the fact that it was almost ready for paint it ended up on the shelf of doom. That is until the KUTA VIII GB gave me an opportunity to try and finish this kit. Detail on the kit is pretty good, however the coming fore and aft of the cockpit is pretty much devoid of detail so I ended up scratching these areas based on a Hungarian Mig 17-F. The bit with the prongs is the base of the sliding portion of the canopy, and the other bit is the rear deck it sits over. The prongs by the way are air ducts to de-mist the canopy, there are similar vents for the front portion of the canopy. Paintwork is all acrylics, mainly Gunze & Tamiya acrylics thinned with cellulose thinner and sprayed through my trusty Badger 100s. Certainly not the most pain free of builds, but definitely one where I have learned a lot in the process. Karl

Soviet T-20 Armoured Tractor Komsomolets 1938 1:35 HobbyBoss The T-20 was designed in 1936 to tow light artillery pieces as the Red Army recognised the need to move to a more mechanised force. Only lighter pieces such as the 45mm, and 76mm guns, plus the 120mm mortar could be towed. A small limber was also in train with the ammunition. Some vehicles would also move only two limbers to increase available ammunition. The cab was armoured (7 to 10mm) and carried the driver and commander, the commander was provided with a ball mounted DT machine gun. In an unusual move both crew members were provided with controls in case the other was incapacitated. The gun crews would ride on the open exposed to fire! though a tarp could be erected for weather protection. One of the main problems of the T-20 was the use of a car engine to power it which was grossly underpowered and overloaded resulting in poor performance and high rate of breakdown. Later in the war some of these vehicles would be used as tankettes. Some even mounting light antitank guns. Figures vary from 4000 to 7000 units being produced. Production was halted in 1941 to concentrate on T-34 production. Like many vehicles of the time captured example were used by other sides. The Finnish Army used these, as did the Germans (sometime mounting Pak 36 guns on them), in German service it was catchilly known as The Leichter Artillerieschlepper STZ 3 630( r ). Romania refurbished a number of captured units. The Romanians having an easy job to refurbish them as the they had a Ford Plant in Bucharest, and the T-20 used a licence built Ford Engine. The Kit This is a new tooling from HobbyBoss and another example of the lesser known vehicles of WWII they are producing. The kit is small and arrives in a smallish box for 1.35. You get a main hull part, top decking and the armoured front house all separate at one end of the box. In the main box are seven sprues of plastic, seven sprues of individual track links (these are tiny!), a small clear sprue, a small PE fret; and a small decal sheet. Construction starts with the wheel bogies. There are two bogies each carrying two wheels on each side. The one part wheels are sandwiched between the bogie halves along with a middle plate. A top cover plate is then put on each one. The completed bogies are then attached to the main hull. Mountings for the rear return wheels are also added at this stage. The front drive sprockets and there cover planes are added along with the idler wheels. The instructions would then have you add the tracks at this stage (there are 84 individual links per side), though I suspect most modellers will leave them off until later. The lower hull is then complete. The upper hull is then attached to the lower hull. The front part housing the driver and gunner/commander has it's machine gun & mount added along with the top hatches; and is then fitted to the upper part. The main seating housing is then added. Following this construction moves to the rear of the vehicle. The rear plate is made up and attached to the main body. The rear mud guards are attached along with a spare road wheel. Lastly the rear bench seating is added along with a foot guard each side. This completes the vehicle. Markings Markings are provided for one Soviet example, and one captured German example. Conclusion A nicely detailed kit that just cries out for a crew, and a gun to tow. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Dassault Rafale B No.336 / 113-IK of EC 1/91 ‘Gascogne’, Armee de L’air Saint-Dizier, 2009. Hobbyboss kit with excellent Syhart decals (Sheet 72-915). Based on one of the aircraft that attended Yeovilton Air Day in 2009 (though without the live MICA and SCALP-EG missiles!) Aircrew came from the Hasegawa F-16 kit. I used them to show an ‘engines running’ configuration so that I could leave the foreplanes horizontal which helps to give the Rafale its good looks. There’s lots of detail on production standard Rafale Bs that needs careful study of photos – I probably haven’t got it all right, but things like navigation light positions on the wingtip missile rails, chaff & flare dispensers, radio antennas, etc were modified from the kit configuration. I can really recommend that Syhart decal sheet if you want to find out about Rafales

With two GBs under my belt, I fearlessly stumble in to my third. As I want to practise three colour camo and doing weird stuff with Panzer Putty, it will be in in the Marines Aggressor camo. I’ve got a nice resin seat that I will no doubt manage to make look like a mangled jellybean with my customary skill and ineptitude. Some nice Italeri fit etch that will be tormented into fitting with a trusty Tamiya etch file. Or not. Colours will be a mix of Mr Hobby & Mr Color with their wonderful levelling thinner. Scotch will be Laphroaig Quarter Cask for good days and Bells floor polish grade for penury days. Finally, having stalked Nigel Heath at the hotel during SMW 2015, I have discovered his secret; Consumption of a whole bottle of this type of magical potion while eating grilled dead cow. As you can see my bottle is ready and waiting for the build to commence, soon I will have Nigey Powers! Anil

Having only built one kit last year, due to major back problems and the onset of depression I was determined to build more this year. Well, here's the first build, the Hobbyboss Russian T-28 medium tank. I still have some weathering to do, once I've decided what base she is to go on, but it certainly helped get some of my mojo back. I did use Friulmodel tracks, as didn't like th ekit links.

Next HobbyBoss Awfulschmitt Bf.109 kit is a 1/48th Bf.109G-2 - ref.81750 Release expected in late January 2016 Source: http://www.hobbyboss.com/index.php?g=home&m=article&a=show&id=55&l=en V.P.

Me.262B-1a/U1 1:48 HobbyBoss The Schwalbe had the distinction of being the first jet engine fighter to see active service, and was respected by the Allies due to its speed and manoeuvrability, care of the advanced axial-flow engines that burned brightly, but not for very long. It came too late with too few airframes entering service due to delays with the engines, and the German high-command's insistence that every aircraft should have a myriad of variants sporting different configurations that brought with them further delays and confusion. The B-1 variant was a two-seater trainer that was hastily adapted to a night fighter for the defence of the Reich and given the U1 designation to differentiate. It was fitted with the FuG 218 Neptun radar, plus the "Antler" eight-dipole antenna array on the nose. The Kit HobbyBoss have a wide range of single-seater 262s, and are now working their way through the two-seater range, plus some of the oddities that were either proposed or were actually in work when the war ended. If you have seen any of the preceeding kits, you'll be familiar with much of the kit already, as it has been tooled from the outset to be a modular "system" to maximise use. Inside the box are nine sprues in mid-grey styrene, two in clear, a metal nose-weight, a sheet of decals, instruction booklet in portrait A4, and a separate double-sided A4 painting & marking guide. The most notable difference of course is the doubled-up cockpit, which has two seats and instrument panels, with decals for both. The side consoles have separate instrument skins, and the tubular cockpit "tub" also forms part of the main gear bays, sitting in a cradle that forms the fore and aft bulkheads of the bay. The nightfighter was well armed with a quartet of 30mm Mk.108 cannon in the nose that could decimate anything in its sights. The gun bay sits atop the nose gear bay, which you can either install the metal part, or the lighter but slightly crisper styrene part if you prefer. The bay, four cannons and their ammo feeds fit to the top, and at the front the stubs for the forward antennae project from the circular front bulkhead. You can fit the nose gear leg at this point, or leave it off until later, and this has the option of smooth or treaded tyres, both of which are two-parts each. The fuselage parts are complete with a lengthened cockpit aperture, and have a number of parts fitted within that will be vaguely seen from the removable hatch on the starboard side. If you're closing the hatch however, leaving these parts out will reduce the need for nose weight fractionally. The fuselage is then closed up around the cockpit and nose gear/gun bays, and set aside while the wings are built up. The cockpit is completed later by the addition of additional equipment between the cockpits for the radar operator, and a sloped rear deck. The engine nacelles have detailed fans at the front and exhaust bullets to the rear, and for no apparent reason, also have ribbing detail (perhaps for strength?) one their inner skins. With two of these built up, the full-width lower ing and split upper are joined together, some additional main gear bay detail added, and the fuselage then the engines are fitted to their respective slots. The nose cone is added, and the cannon bay doors can be fitted in opened or closed positions, while the forward panel that contains their troughs is fixed closed. If you're either brave or foolhardy, the front antennae can be fitted at this stage, but I'd leave them off, and consider some Master replacements in hardy brass. Under the aircraft the cannon shell ejector chute panels are added, remembering to make holes for the drop-tanks if you will be fitting them. The main gear legs have separate oleo scissor-links, and two captive bay doors each, with the third inner door fitting to the centre between the two bays. The bay door for the nose gear has a long retraction jack that clips into the side of the bay wall. As often happens with HB kits, you get a stack of extras, which in this case includes the aforementioned drop-tanks, plus a tray of unguided rockets for under each wing. Additionally, a pair of rocket (RATO) packs are also included for under the rear of the fuselage, which were sometimes used to assist a heavily laden Schwalbe to take off quickly. Markings There are two decal options from the box, both of which have black undersides and RLM76 uppers, differing mainly in the style of squiggle camouflage that they wear. From the box you can build one of the following: W.Nr.111980 10/NJG 11 Kommando Welter 12 – smoke rings and stripes in RLM81/83. W.Nr.110494 piloted by Lt. Herbert Altner – RLM75 mottle. The decals are printed in-house and are in good register with adequate sharpness and colour density. There are some rather noticeable steps in the diagonal sides of the Swastika however, which is incidentally printed in parts to avoid issues, so you might wish to use your own if you will be applying them to your finished model. Conclusion Another well-done 262 to add to HB's stable. Detail is good, as is the choice of weapons/equipment fit, and other than a slight improvement needed in the decal printing, it's well-rounded kit. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

IDF APC Puma 1:35 HobbyBoss The Puma is based on the Israeli version of the British Centurion tank, but vastly altered so as to be almost unrecognisable. Instead of a turret it has a flat armoured "blockhouse", additional armour packages and three crew stations with FN machine-guns, one of which can be operated remotely, and a larger crew hatch behind them. They can be used as personnel carriers with a crew of up to eight, but are most commonly seen as Armoured Engineering vehicles, sometimes fitted with mine clearance rollers, explosive mine clearance rocket systems or dozer blades. Their heavy weight and relatively high speed make them ideal for clearing roadblocks, and their armour makes for a survivable platform that has seen extensive use since introduction in the early 90s. Recently, developments have been ongoing to use the vehicles as mine and IED clearance, which will require the fitting of additional equipment. The Kit This is a new tooling from HobbyBoss and fits in with their Achzarit and Merkava kits. It arrives in a standard sized box with a painting of the subject on top, and inside you will find eleven sprues and two hull parts in olive drab styrene, four in brown, a clear sprue, twenty-four roadwheel tyres in flexible black styrene, a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, decal sheet, instruction sheet and a separate painting and marking guide. Construction begins with the two types of road wheels, twelve of each in pairs, which is at variance with the instructions telling you to make twelve of each type. The separate flexible tyres can be slipped over the already painted hubs to ease painting, but do ensure you position them with the flange to the outside before gluing them in place. All the road wheels have a central cap added, as do the two idler wheels, while the drive sprockets do not. They are set aside while the suspension arms, dampers and bump-stops are added to the narrow lower hull, and are added in pairs of pairs to their axles along with a number of return rollers of various sizes. The front and rear bulkheads have inserts with additional detail, including towing loops and spare track-links, plus a large towing hitch under the rear end. The tracks of the individual link type, and are supplied on the brown sprues with 106 links required for each track run. The usual method of gluing them with liquid glue and then wrapping them around the sprockets should do the trick, packing them with anything handy to achieve the correct degree of sag. The fenders are festooned with additional equipment and stowage, and have separate end-caps to the front with cross-braces to strengthen them laterally. These fit into slots in the side of the lower hull, after which the upper hull gains focus. The remote turret is built up first with a clear TV camera port, with the other two crew-served machine-guns next, followed by sundry equipment and antenna bases for the flat blockhouse area. The crew hatches have separate detailed hinge mechanisms, and these fit in place in either open or closed positions along with the weapons on their mounts. This is then fitted in position on the upper hull panel, which also has the driver's hatch with vision blocks situated just forward of the blockhouse in a recessed area. A large stowage basket is constructed from sets of tubular rails, and is glued to the centre of the engine deck on the only space without cooling grilles. With the addition of a pair of additional towing hooks on the glacis, the upper hull and lower are now joined, and the side-skirts can be added on their T-shaped brackets that mount on lugs moulded into the sides of the upper hull. A ladder is attached to the starboard side as a final act, although it appears to have no visible means of support. Markings All Pumas are painted a base coat of Sinai Grey, and differ only by their unit markings and personalisations. There are a total of eleven decal options, as evidenced by the relatively large decal sheet, but as I don't profess to understand Hebrew, it would be difficult for me to comment further. The decals are printed in-house and are have good register, colour density and sharpness, except for a numeral 2 near the right of the sheet that has some very feint stepping on the (near) verticals. The sheet consists of the unit markings applied to the side-skirts, plus three completed number plates and two more that you can complete yourself with the additional digits provided. Oddly, a set of black half-circle decals are included for the crew-steps on the rear of the fenders, but as these are actually cut-out from the fender parts, their inclusion doesn't make much sense on the face of it. Conclusion A nicely detailed kit that just cries out for a crew and lots of stowage in that big basket. They are often seen with anti-slip coatings applied to the horizontal areas where the crew are likely to step, so it may be worthwhile applying some Cast-A-Coat or finely ground pumice to these areas, being careful to check your references first for the correct locations. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Decided it was time to build a couple of Castaldi's Macchi C202 fighters from the enduring Hasegawa twin boxing. Cleaned up the only "detail" on the cockpit walls. Small white ring is a slice off a cotton tip, to become a trim wheel. Added ribs and bits to make peering through the canopy a little bit interesting. While preparing to join the fuselage halves, disaster struck when I picked up the Tamiya cement only to have the (not properly tightened) lid in my hand and the full jar fall to the table and splash in my lap, on my head, and a tiny spot in my eye. None landed on my model. Phew !!! After rinsing my pants and showering to wash glue off me, I head back to the workshop to find this...... .......the glue slick had used gravity to seek out the fuselage and make a mess of it. So I grabbed the starboard fuselage from the second kit, made some new ribs and translated the detail bits from the destroyed half. Buttoned up without the drama. Opened up the exhaust manifold covers. Shown with its melted sibling. I had seen a few photos that showed the engine cover sitting slightly higher at the rear. I added some thin styrene at the base to try and emulate this. I wouldn't do this again as the scale doesn't really warrant it. Guess who doesn't know when to put the styrene away. Filled in the awful gaps, but decided against trying to detail the gear bays. Now that I have lots of spare Macchi parts I thought I may be able to use some on this......... While the HobbyBoss C200 has a good outline and acceptable surface detail, the cockpit is a bad seat and the wings are of equal length (which we all know is wrong....right?) Used the spare Hasegawa cockpit parts and joined the fuselage and wings. A butterfly for the C202 intake. Plus some pointless pre-shading (as I usually lose it under the top coats). Scratched internal radiator parts for C202 and added grooves to the oil cooler around the cowling on the C200. More to come.

Sturmpanzer IV Early Version HobbyBoss 1:35 History The Sturmpanzer (also known as Sturmpanzer 43 or Sd.Kfz. 166) was a German armoured infantry support gun based on the Panzer IV chassis used in the Second World War. It was used at the Battles of Kursk, Anzio, Normandy, and was deployed in the Warsaw Uprising. It was known by the nickname Brummbär (German: "Grouch") by Allied intelligence, a name which was not used by the Germans. Just over 300 vehicles were built and they were assigned to four independent battalions. The Sturmpanzer was a development of the Panzer IV tank designed to provide a vehicle offering direct infantry fire support, especially in urban areas. It used a Panzer IV chassis with the upper hull and turret replaced by a new casemate-style armoured superstructure housing a new gun, the 15 centimetres (5.9 in) Sturmhaubitze (StuH) 43 L/12 developed by Skoda. It fired the same shells as the 15 cm sIG 33 heavy infantry gun. Thirty-eight rounds, with separate propellant cartridges, could be carried. It used the Sfl.Zf. 1a sight. The combined weight of the shell and cartridge (38 kilograms (84 lb) for an HE shell and 8 kilograms (18 lb) for a propellant cartridge) made the work of the loader arduous, especially if the gun was elevated to a high angle. A MG 34 machine gun was carried that could be fastened to the open gunner's hatch, much like the arrangement on the Sturmgeschütz III Ausf. G. Early vehicles carried a MP 40 sub-machine gun inside, which could be fired through firing ports in the side of the superstructure. The driver's station projected forward from the casemate's sloped frontal armour plate and used the Tiger I's Fahrersehklappe 80 driver's sight. The fighting compartment was (badly) ventilated by natural convection, exiting out the rear of the superstructure through two armoured covers. Side skirts were fitted on all vehicles. Early vehicles were too heavy for the chassis, which led to frequent breakdowns of the suspension and transmission. Efforts were made to ameliorate this from the second series onwards, with some success. In October 1943 it was decided that the StuH 43 gun needed to be redesigned to reduce its weight. A new version, some 800 kilograms (1,800 lb) lighter than the StuH 43, was built as the StuH 43/1. Some of the weight was saved by reducing the armour on the gun mount itself. This gun was used from the third production series onwards. Zimmerit coating was applied to all vehicles until September 1944. The Model Depicting a Sturmpanzer IV Early version, mid-production, this is yet another reboxing of a Tristar kit, and like the others reviewed recently it has exactly the same layout box top as the original, with just the Hobbyboss title replacing the old Tristar label. The colourful boxart shows an artists impression of the vehicle travelling on a road in Italy. Inside there are eighteen sprues and one separate part in sandy yellow styrene, one of clear styrene, two sprues of the rubber like DS equivalent, five sheets of etched brass, a the small decal sheet. Hobbyboss are proving to be pretty consistent with their moulding, in that the parts are all beautifully moulded, with only the slighjtest signs of flash, but no other imperfections other than a fair few moulding pips which will add to the cleaning up of parts. From what I can gather, the Tristar kit was renowned for its accuracy, and since Hobbyboss haven’t done anything to the sprues it can be said of this kit as well. Construction begins with the assembly of the road wheels, of two distinct types. Each of wheel sets are made up in pairs and consist of inner and outer wheels, each with the rubber tyres and glued together with a poly style cap. The leaf spring suspension for each set of wheels is made up from three parts, whilst the mounting unit on which the axles are attached are each made from four parts. The front two suspension sets are fitted with bent leaf springs, showing the weight of the vehicle, and showing the levels of accuracy that Tristar went to. Each of the eight suspension units are then fitted with the wheel assemblies The sprockets are made up from inner and outer hubs and fitted to the gearbox cover via a shaft piece that is slid through the rear of the cover. The idlers are also made from inner and outer hubs and fitted with a separate axle part. The lower hull is then fitted with the rear bulkhead, which in turn is detailed with the two, three piece exhausts, two, three piece idler wheel mounts, a horizontal plate, starter handle, and the four piece towing hitch. At the front end of the lower hull the two sections of lower glacis plates are fitted. On the underside, two lengths of what look like suspension parts are glued into position, whilst on the sides the five, three piece bump stops and four, three piece return rollers are attached. The engine bulkhead is fitted inside the lower hull along with the fighting compartment floor, whilst at the front the two, four piece towing eyes are attached. All the wheel assemblies are now fitted to their respective positions and the six piece front upper glacis plate, plus the two five piece track guards are glued into position. The engine decking is built up from separate plates, to form a box structure, into which the intake guides are fitted and the whole section covered over with the two hatches and their grilles. The deck is further detailed with the fitting of some pioneer tools, grab handles, hinges and a two piece box. The rear mudguards are then attached, along with the rear light clusters and reflectors, and the nine piece exhaust assembly fitted to the rear bulkhead. The gun is really well detailed with fifteen parts making up the gun, breech block and controls. The three piece shell cradle is then fitted, whilst the six parts that make up the control system of the gun for elevation and azimuth are attached to the left hand trunnion mount+. The gun assembly is then mounted to the small turntable via two trunnion mounts, and the large ball slid over the barrel. The gun assembly is mounted onto a five piece mounting structure, which has a two piece radio set mounted to the right arm. The gunners seat and hand wheel are then attached, along with the four piece sight. The inside of the fighting compartment is fully detailed inside and out, with parts and accessories on every panel. The large loading hatches on the roof are able to be posed either open or closed, as are the smaller rear hatch and the commanders hatch, which also has the option of having the binocular periscope to be fitted. The frontal armour is fitted with the drivers vision block, which includes all the interior details. The inside of the front plate is also detailed with the fitting of two MP-40 sub-machine guns and four gas mask cases. With all the interior details added, the four sides and roof of the fighting compartment can be assembled. Before adding this to the hull though, there are two large racks for the shells to be assembled and fitted to the hull floor, along with a storage chest and a rack of shell bases and the main gun assembly. With the hull complete, the tracks can be assembled and fitted. The model then fitted with which are the four spare pairs of wheels are attached to the rear bulkhead along with their associated racks. The jack plate, jack, headlights and Schürzen support frames are also attached at this point, as is the large stowage box. A length of spare track is fitted to the upper glacis plate and attached using the etched clamps. The Schürzen plates are each made up form separate plates, onto which the support cradles are attached before being fitted to the support frames on the vehicle. These plates had a habit of being ripped off, so depending on how you are going to display your model you may wish to leave some of them off, and/or bent. Decals The small decal sheet contains markings for three vehicles, they are well printed, in register and nicely opaque. They are fairly glossy and there is a fair amount of carrier film between the main numbers, but it feels quite thin so shouldn’t cause to much of a problem when applied over a gloss coat. All three vehicles served with Sturmpanzer IV Abt 216, in Italy in 1944, with the only difference being the variation of green camouflage over the sand yellow painted overall. Conclusion This is another superb kit and a great choice for a Hobbyboss re-box. The interior detail is definitely the icing on the cake and with the large hatches open it will be able to be seen. Some of the PE parts are very small or awkward, or both, so may not be the best kit if you are nervous of using PE, but if you persevere the results will be worth it. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of