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Found 14 results

  1. Good day friends! Here is my latest work, Oldie goldie P-47D Razorback from Tamiya. Superb kit, no major fit issues. This is the first time I've used HGW positive rivets and although they demand some extra work (filling already made rivetholes on the kit), the result is well worth it in my opinion. I used Eduard PE set, Quickboost engine, CMK resin wheels, HGW seatbelts, stencils and positive rivets. Decals are from Kitsworld, although the insignias were airbrushed. All the paints used are from MRP, weathering was Ammo affair (oilbrushers, washes, dust effects etc.) I hope you like it, enjoy the pics!
  2. Hey! I'm really sorry for not posting anything for a while.... I finished Eduard's spitfire with ton's of extras. If you are interested, here is the Build log, but I think you are more interested in seeing photos of the finished build. Some of You might have noticed that this build was published in Meng Air Modeller. Here they are, enjoy!
  3. Hello, Thought I'd start building something a bit more relaxing after the Flanker, so at the Moson show in Hungary I've bought this beautiful eduard's kit - with all the extras. I am planning to build it as opened as possible - engine, cockpit, radio, gunbays, misc. panels and so on. So, starting with the cutting, cleaning and thinning all the resin bits and pieces and dryfitting them over and over again. So, this is my Moson show loot, most of the parts here are for Spit. Too much of them really... So, brassin radio compartment with Aires cockpit test fitted... brassin parts just slot into the position, they fit the eduard kit perfectly. And Aires gunbays (just dryfitted, not glued yet) I think I will thin the plastic a bit more...
  4. I started this one as a part of the Me.262 STGB and failed miserably to complete it in time, so I guess I'm just crap at deadlines The 262 is the 1:48 Hobby Boss kit with some HGW seatbelts, and a few odds and sods scratch built on the way, such as some additional detail in the bombardier's compartment, the nose whiskers and other bits I've forgotten about. The truck is a Tamiya 3-ton Opel Blitz, with the SBS Models T-Stoff wagen conversion set that's actually intended for the old Italeri kit, but fits just fine on the Tamiya chassis, which is on the whole a better combination for detail. it was a shame to lock away all the T-Stoff handling equipment behind the doors, but I was kind-of trying to loosely replicate the picture below, so it had to be ready to tow with everything squared away. I took a while to paint the driver, but the poor devil can barely seen, so that was a waste of time! The towing hitch was scratched using some pics online as a guide, just from some styrene rod I had in stock. With the deadline long past, I've been working on this sporadically when time and health permits, and finally got the paint on in the not-too-distant past. It's all been downhill from there! Pics below: I just love the shape of the 262, and it really is a sharky-looking aircraft. For those with a bit more time or tolerance for photos, here are a few detail pics that show up the flaws! That's all from me on this one, and all that remains to do is put the missing pieces on and somehow find some space to display it in the cabinet. I think some of my older creations are going to have to go into storage now, sadly. If you want to review the process from start to eventual finish, you can find the WIP here. Thanks for watching, and remember to tip your server
  5. Did anybody else miss these: https://www.eduard.com/store/aircraft-and-helicopters/1-48/fw-190a-stencils-wet-transfer-decals-1-48.html?lang=1&cur=2 https://www.eduard.com/store/aircraft-and-helicopters/1-48/fw-190a-2-3-4-markings-wet-transfer-decals-1-48.html?lang=1&cur=2 releases from Eduard/ HGW for their new 1/48 series Fw-190A. Listed quietly on their website and part of the BFC category. I have ordered a couple of sets as the HGW sets have received good reports. Regards,
  6. Hi guys, just made a quick tutorial on how using HGW wet transfers. What are wet transfers? Well, imagine a normal decal but with carrier film placed on top of graphic instead of graphic printed on carrier film. I hope someone will find this tutorial useful. 1. First remove the protective foil from transfers 2. Cut out the chosen transfer with scalpel. 3. Prepair the surface with Gunze Mr. Mark Setter (don't use anything else - this acts as a glue so the transfer sticks to the surface at the end) 4. Soak the transver in a warm water for 15-20 seconds 5. Slide the transfer onto the surface you have previously prepaired with Mr. Mark Setter. Place it to the desired position. 6. Remove the excess setter and water with a brush, cotton swab or paper tissue. REALLY REALLY IMPORTANT!!! LEAVE THE TRANSFER TO DRY FOR AT LEAST 6 HOURS. BETTER STILL, LEAVE TO DRY OVERNIGHT 7. Then carefully peel off the carrier foil. 8. And clean the surface with damp cloth or cotton swab. 9. End result is simply stunning. As you can see, the roundel is the classic decal and You can notice a carrier film. Transfers however, are perfect.
  7. Seatbelt and Mask sets for Revell Bf109G-6 1:32 HGW As with previous sets reviewed on this site, this set has been released in HGW’s Basic Line. The quality is well to what we have come to expect from HGW, and provides the modeller with some very realist seatbelts, all the ironmongery to fit them with and a set of canopy masks. Being laser cut, the edges of both the seatbelts and masks are as crisp and clean as you could want. Only the small join to the sheet marring the perfection. If you’re using a new No11 blade then you should be able to cut them out without the need for any further cleaning up. The buckles and clasps are quite small, even in this scale, but the seatbelts are stiff enough to pass through them with relative ease. Now, whereas some sets from HGW haven’t been blessed with good instructions on how the belts should be threaded through the metalwork, the instructions with this set are a lot clearer, but still require the modeller to study them closely. The completed assemblies should be given a bit of a dark wash to tone them down a bit, and then just attached to their appropriate positions. They will probably need a bit of a bend to get them to sit correctly and realistically. The masks in this set have suffered a little bit of shrinkage, which hopefully has been taken into account, and appears to be a normal thing, having looked at HGW’s other sets. The set includes masks for both the interior and exterior of the windshield and canopy and rear section for both late and early style canopies, which is a great help, particularly for the interior. Just fit and, using your favourite paints and airbrush, spray away. Conclusion This is another very useful set by HGW, and can be used by any level of modeller. The masks are generally used for when painting with an airbrush, but I’m sure they could be useful for those who don’t. The seatbelts are little quite fiddly, but with a bit of care and patience, anyone can have a great looking addition to the kits seat. Very highly recommended. Review samples courtesy of
  8. Fabric seatbelts Luftwaffe and USAAF 1:48 Eduard This new style of seatbelt has been developed by HGW in conjunction with Eduard in an attempt to give a highly realistic rendering of seatbelt material and design that is difficult to reproduce in styrene, and only partly successful with Photo-Etch (PE) brass, either pre-painted or bare metal. The sets arrive in Eduard's usual flat pack with a white card inlay, and each one includes a small fret of PE and a sheet of what appears to be laser cut film on a backing paper. USAAF (49060) Luftwaffe (49061) A sheet of instructions cover the layout of the belts and buckles with a number of instructions on the rear for the preparation of the belt material for use. The first step is simple enough, simply removing the backing paper from the material. Then it tells you to screw it up into a ball and roll it between your fingers, which although slightly worrying is doable, and doesn't seem to damage the material. The next part is quite tricky, which is the threading of the belts and buckles together - care and patience is the order of the day here. If you've had a bad day, or are feeling frustrated for any reason, please do NOT attempt to thread the belts together, as you'll end up needing a new set, possibly a new workbench, and maybe a good divorce lawyer. I found that just pootling along with no particular goal in mind to work best. I'd just pick a section of belt, thread the end buckle/retainer on and glue that down using super-glue. Once set, thread the lower part through, then the upper over it, which is the really tricky part. I found that holding the lower section taut against the buckle allowed sufficient room to wriggle the upper section through, and then adjustment could be done to get the belts at a reasonable length to sit on the seat. A few of the buckles are duplicated in case you lose them, but I'd prefer more spares y'know just in case. After I lost the spare, I became quite anxious about that last buckle going ping into the distance. The belts and seat still need their final matt varnish The belt material is slightly flexible, but don't pull too hard, or it will break - especially when being pulled against the sharp edge of the PE. I managed to put together the Luftwaffe set in a couple of hours, and then tacked them flat on a piece of Tamiya tape that had itself been tacked to a tongue depressor (a fat lollipop stick if you've not encountered one). I gave them a coat of Alclad Aqua Gloss, and then a light brush with Mig Neutral Wash to bring out the detail. Any excess was wiped away, and they were then added to the seat - in this case an old Dragon Me.262A-1/U4 that I'm building as a distraction from review builds. Conclusion The results are well worth the effort. The belts look good, have pre-printed stencils on them, and realistic looking stitch detail that is brought out with the wash. They aren't for the short of patience, or the modeller looking for a quick fix, as they take a long time and a lot of concentration. As usual, you end up getting into your stride just as you finish building the last belt, but that's always the way. Comparing them to the quick & easy PE belts that Eduard have done in the past, and will doubtless continue to do, they look much more realistic and drape far better than brass that can't be annealed because of the paint could ever do. Having used a set in anger, I can say that they are a good product, and HGW's inventiveness shows through here in spades. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. Hello, this is my new projet.... the HORTEN HO-229 in 1/32 scale by Zoukei Mura. I am planning to present it in the wonderful looking version with wood and metal surface. The seatbelts coming from HGW, the wheels are the resin ones from Zoukei Mura, also the metal gears. I started with the framework for the interior which consists of several thin frame parts which were all connected with each other. So dry fitting is absolutly important to avoid later problems in the fitting. After that I painted the finished frame work in green/grey color and brush painted the details of it. The metal parts were silver/gold painted and polished. As next step I started with the engine nozzle and put together the first parts of it. Unfortunatley most of these parts are no more visible later. Maybe I will find a possibility to keep one engine open so that the turbine blades of at least one nozzle will remain visible. Next step - painting of the nozzle parts in silver before putting the nozzles together (and trying to keep one open and the inside visible). Cheers Michael
  10. I had it long time waiting till starting this wonderful kit..... the HANSA BRANDENBURG W.29 in scale 1/32 by Wingnut Wings. There is nothing unsaid about this amazing kit so that I do not want to loose time.... and start directly with the first pictures of it..... The engine.... I added some wire and replaced some parts with thin plastic pipes ..... and painted all in black / iron. The iron was polished aferwards before adding some oil paint, drybrushing and pigments to it ..... All interior parts got a primer with brown lifecolor, before making the wooden parts with oil colors. I wanted to give it a darker look on the inside and used mostly dark brown colors. The tanks and other metal parts were painted with Revell Aqua colors and received some polishing and oil color washing after it. Next I have added more and more parts to the interior ..... Do not wonder about the missing seatbelts... I am waiting for the lased cut parts from HGW right now ..... Hope you like it so far .... Cheers Michael
  11. Was'on My Typhoon has come a bit of a stand still whilst I'm waiting for the seat harness to arrive from HGW so I thought I'd make a start on this lot.. ...should be fun! Yours aye Iain
  12. Was'on For my next build I will be tackling Hasegawa's Hawker Typhoon. First order of business was to remove the cockpit coaming as per the Barracuda resin instructions... Before I started this build I was aware of fit issues with the cockpit inserts and after a search of the internet it became apparent that the easiest way of correcting the problem was to glue the inserts to the fuselage sides ensuring that you have a good fit, this will however leave a gap between the fuselage half's that will need filling... Well that's all I've managed this evening. See you dreckly Yours aye Iain
  13. Was'on For my next project I'll be building the 1/48 Eduard P-47D 'Jugs over Europe' edition kit. It will be built OOB apart from a HGW Sutton harness and Xtradecals decals and it will be built as Thunderbolt II S/N KL328 '14' which was on strength with 73 OTU, Fayid Egypt 1945. So far I've completed the engine with the only additions being some wire to representing the ignition harness.. And I've also started on the engine cowling, painting it using Citadel paints with Boltgun as the base with the cowling flaps in Mithril silver.. Well that's it for now Yours aye Iain
  14. Well the epic build is over - this took forever ( 6 months ), with a 3 month break while I had to source a replacement canopy. Built using the Kit decals (which weren't great being honest), Aires Cockpit which is nice and fits, Eduard External etch set which has some great bits and some pointless bits, Orion vinyl MDC cord which is great if very fiddly and finally HGW Fabric Remove Before Flight tags which are nice. It's a nice kit, but is very fiddly in parts and a bit of a pain to assemble. It's a nice size for a 1/32nd Jet though, not too big. Painted with Gunze Aqueous throughout, weathered with oils and true-earth and pigments. build thread is available here Comments welcomed as always Peter
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