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Found 17 results

  1. Well, finished this one up a while ago but am finally getting around to posting here on "Ready for Inspection". I enjoyed getting to be a bit heavy-handed with the weathering techniques. I found the toughest part of the build for me was masking all the parts for their initial paint job. I used Mig Jimenez's "In Combat" book to guide me through the weathering steps. Album on Flickr
  2. After seeing the awesome builds by RPC and Wouter, I decided to take the plunge and throw a bit of glue and paint at my first Gundam model.. I picked the 1/44 scale RCX-76-02 Guncannon, Mainly due to its old school military look, and the idea that I would alter the colour scheme from the customary grey blue to something a little more 'earthy'. so without further adieu I present my version of the RCX-76-02.
  3. After finishing star destroyer, i started lovely Sazabi Ver Ka. Thats the box its pretty big, for size comparison i used 1/48 scale tomcat. and theser are the parts, i think this kit contain 600-650 parts so excited
  4. Hello all, like my SD this model is already up on another part of the site, but I thought I'd show it off here anyway. The model as started several years ago, but I only completed it just before Christmas with little jobs like the monoeye, decals and the shoulder pad. Paints were a mix of Vallejo, AK and Tamiya. I enjoyed the cute little blighter and will be looking for more in this line. Toodles, Paul
  5. Finally its done. I try a lot of technics for the first time, i hope you like the Zaku
  6. Lovely Mg Geara Doga Opening the box. This is how look the original paint schema. But i have different ideas about this kit... lets start with sanding...
  7. Wing Gundam EW Colonies Liberation Organisation Mobile Suit XXXG-01W 1:144 Real Grade (RG) Bandai Gundam is a word that has been heard more frequently here in the UK in the last few years, but it has been a household name in Japan since the late 80s when the first cartoons/Animé burst onto TV with youngsters piloting huge robots known as Mecha. Spectacular battles in space or on planets are the watchword, and a familiar theme runs through the stories of a young oik that rebels against authority but has undeniable skill when behind the controls of a Gundam, whilst not always being entirely comfortable with the job. The main character is also usually terrible when it comes to the ladies, tripping over his tongue whenever romantic situations crop up. Gundam Wing, or Mobile Suit Gundam Wing to give it its full title was released in 1995, with 49 episodes of action, spawning games, books and a couple of movies that retell the stories in a more concise manner. It was very popular in the US, and was dubbed for the English speaking market, although it is sometimes a bit "odd" in places, due to either the writers losing the plot (quite literally), or the mouth movements not permitting a more accurate rendition. XXXG-01W is a Doctor J's creation after a partnership breaks down between the designers, so bears a striking resemblance to the original Gundam Zero in form and function. Referred to as Gundam 01 is has an additional Bird Mode for atmospheric flight to aid mobility further. Made of the rather cornily titled Gundaniam alloy it is tough as old boots, and can weather almost any attack, which makes for some rather explosive encounters with the enemy. The Kit If you're not familiar with Bandai's excellent toolings, you have missed out, and will no doubt be quite impressed with the finesse and technical skills applied to these complex models. There are a number of grades and scales to cater for different tastes and skill sets, but all kits can be built without glue or paint if you so wish. The multi-coloured sprues are impressive to behold when coming from the more restrained aircraft modelling world, and there are sometimes up to four or five colours, and even types of plastic on the same sprue. The Real Grade kits are super-detailed and as real as an imaginary giant robot could be, including a fiendishly clever working skeleton at the heart of the model onto which the other assemblies are layered. On one sprue are two types of plastic co-moulded or double-shot (I prefer the former, as the plastic doesn't fuse together) Polystyrene and ABS to create working limbs that make for a poseable model once completed. They really are incredible, and bring a smile to most faces when you realise what you're looking at, especially when you consider the comparatively diminutive size of the 1:144 kits that build up to around 6" or 15cm. As these kits are available primarily for the Japanese and Far East market, the majority of the box text and almost all of the instruction manuals are in Japanese, so will be largely unintelligible to us Westerners. The diagrams are excellent however, and Construction begins with the skeleton, which has a number of scrap diagrams that tell you exactly which parts to cut and where to cut them, because the detail of the skeleton is such that the uninitiated might accidentally cut a key lump off by mistake. There are also little pairs of triangles to draw your attention to the correct orientation of parts, which should again prevent any errors. Finally, there are occasional arrows that indicate the front of the model so that all the limbs end up on the right way. More advanced modellers will probably paint the outer parts before adding them to the skeleton, but keeping a careful note of which parts go where will be necessary until you are suitably experienced. The legs are built up first around the articulated skeleton parts, and they attach to the "skirt" of the lower body while the torso is built up, again around the skeleton assembly that provides shoulder, waist and hip movement, plus a double-ended ball-joint for the neck, which will be familiar if you have built one of their Star Wars kits, which are equivalent to the High Grade (HG) range. The torso is joined to the waist and several side parts are added before the arms are built up one at a time. If you aren't pre-painting the parts, it's a good idea to stick rigidly to the instructions for the first few builds, due to the complexity of the parts and their dovetailing with each other. The head and weapons are next, with a clear green visor for the head unit, and a clear green laser sword in the optional weapons. The backpack with those dramatic wings is also built up at this stage, with the finished article allowing them to pivot to achieve different looks. The weapons include the Buster Rifle, two Energy Cartridge Pods, a shield and the aforementioned laser sword. Different hands are supplied on the sprues to accommodate the various weapons, with additional parts for open or closed fist poses. The Bird-Mode instructions sit right at the end of the booklet, and involves the Rifle, Shield, the re-jigging of the arms, posing of the backpack, and clipping the now streamlined Rifle/Shield combination on the figure's head and shoulders. In this mode it would be an idea to consider one of the inexpensive "Action Stands", which clip to the figure and allow you to pose it in flight at numerous angles due to the stand's joints and pivot points. Markings The markings are mostly stencils, and here's where the 1:144 RG series hits a little bump in the road from this reviewer's point of view. The markings are all supplied as stickers, and although they are very thin and of good quality, it seems a little toy-like and could make it difficult to apply washes both from the point of view of dissolving the adhesive, and the wash drying in the edges, giving a noticeable outline. More on this later when I get to the building stage. There are decals available out there, so have a looksee if you feel like upgrading, although you'll struggle to improve on the metallic stickers on the sheet. Conclusion These kits at this scale are very reasonably priced when you see the detail and engineering technology that goes into them, let down a little only by the stickers in the box. You don't have to know a damn thing about the series to enjoy building the kits, and they do make striking entries in your cabinet once completed. You could build one as a break from your usual genre, or if you are interested in the genre as a whole, they're a great way to bring your favourite Mechas to life in a scale that won't take up half your display area. My Build Review can now be found here. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  8. Start the new project. Master Grade Gm Custom, its a little bit old kit, need some sanding etc. Opening the box. Start with arms... 18 years old kit need some sanding
  9. Mecha Painting & Weathering Sets AMMO of Mig Jimenez Following our review and build review of a Gundam Zaku II of the Zeon Republic recently, we're building on the theme with assistance of AMMO, who produce both a Guide to painting Mechas as they refer to the giant robot genre collectively, as well as a crop of painting and weathering sets to help you achieve the amazing effects that are commonplace in the AFV modelling arena, and transfer well to Mech painting. The acrylic colours are suitable for brush-painting or airbrushing, and they are well regarded as a range of colours, either mixed with their own thinners, water or Ultimate Thinners. In case you haven't a clue what I'm talking about, these giant robots are a regular part of Japanese Anime (cartoons) and Manga (graphic novels) that have become a staple entertainment in Japan, which has spread to the West with the aid of dubbing and subtitles. The industry is worth billions of yen per annum, and there is a wealth of subjects to choose from, with specialist importers such as our friends at Japan:Cool bringing many of the kits into the UK to facilitate your interest! Mecha & Robots Colours (A.MIG.7127) Gundam and their ilk are usually quite colourful, especially on the side of right, with white bodies, colourful forearms, shoulder pads etc., which are more pure colours than the muddied shades you often find in the pre-existing armoury of the military modeller. This set contains six 17ml bottles of acrylic paint, with yellow screw top caps and a dropper applicator inside. The new yellow caps indicate that there is also a stainless steel ball-bearing within each pot that assists with paint mixing. Inside the box are the following colours: A.MIG-048 Yellow A.MIG-049 Red A.MIG-103 Medium Blue A.MIG-119 Cold Grey A.MIG-120 Light Brown-Grey A.MIG-204 Medium Gunship Grey Green Mecha Colours (A.MIG.7149) There's a LOT of green in mech painting, particularly the Zeon folks in Gundam, Zentradi in Macross, and the Gamilas of Space Battleship Yamato. This set is also acrylic like the previous set, but instead of a range of colours you get a range of shades to enable you to colour modulate and adjust the tonality of the finish to your heart's content. Included in the set are the following colours: A.MIG-023 Protective Green A.MIG-045 Gun Metal A.MIG-062 Blue A.MIG-077 Dull Green A.MIG-082 Interior Light Green A.MIG-201 Light Gray Green Chipping Set for Mechas 1 (A.MIG 7428) Unlike the paint sets above, this set is a small three paint set, with two 32ml bottles and one 17ml dropper bottle. The first of the 32ml bottles contains Chipping Fluid that you apply liberally to the surface of the model before painting, while the second is an enamel wash of Engine Grime. The acrylic bottle contains a brown shade to create weathered chip marks with. The chipping fluid is applied before the paint, and when dry the paint is gently agitated using a damp stiff brush to give the desired effect. The Engine Grime is applied as a wash to give a dirtied-down appearance to your Gundam, and can be removed or adjusted by either wiping with a piece of towel, or by dampening the edges with a brush moistened in enamel thinners. Finally, the brown paint is applied with a small brush, taking care to keep the marks in scale. A.MIG-044 Chipping A.MIG-2010 Scratches Effects A.MIG-1407 Engine Grime Weathering Set for Mechas 2 (A.MIG-7429) Another three bottle set, this time with three 32ml bottles, one each of enamel filter, wash to add layers of detritus to your finished model. Layers of filter can be used to subtly change the hue of the underlying light/white colour, while the Streaking Grime is added to areas where dirt would accumulate or be drawn by rain marks, after which it can be faded, adjusted or drawn in the direction of gravity with a brush moistened in thinners. The Dark Earth pigment is added to areas where mud, dust and dirt build-up, then moved about with a dry brush until you are happy with the look, and then fixed in place by a dot of thinners or pigment fixer. A.MIG-1500 Filter Brown For White A.MIG-1201 Streaking Grime For Dak A.MIG-3007 Dark Earth Pigment Review sample courtesy of
  10. Gundam plastic model news from Shizouka : watch full album at the HLJ facebook: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=np.1431565409330318.100002440552223&type=1 MSK-008 Dijeh new kit from new Bandai 1/100 RE/100 product line: 1/100 MASTER GRADE MSN-00100 Type 100 Hyakushiki Ver.2.0 b HG Mobile Worker: RG Gundam Astray: Bandai hi-tech molding technology - parts molded from two different plastics: (probably ABS+PS because PS+PS would mixed together)
  11. Okay, so here is the second of the two SD gunpla models that I bought from Japan. With this one, I decided that I would try to paint it using spray paints. So this will be a big learning experience and a test of my patience since I don't have much. I was finally able to find a decent dark green and I kinda gave up on finding the perfect joint color which I settled on Nato Black. Most of the spray paint is Tamiya, the large can is Valspar and I have a can of Testors black enamel spray. Only one piece is pink, and I may or may not use the paint (which is by krylon) since there is a pink sticker. I will also be attempting the decals. http://gundam.wikia.com/wiki/NZ-666_Kshatriya AMV of Kshatriya in action: https://youtu.be/f8h3pZ-NNGs
  12. Hello. I haven't really been active on here but I recently picked up a couple of small models. This will be a straight out of the box build since I don't have any paint or the tools to paint. I don't know how many of you are familiar with gunpla or Gundam in general so here it goes. I will building the BB Senshi 365 MSN-06S Sinanju. BB Senshi models are Super Deformed (SD), so there is no scale. The suit is from Mobile Suit Gundam Unicorn, a seven episode series. Here is a a link to the Sinanju's stats: http://gundam.wikia.com/wiki/MSN-06S_Sinanju Here is a video of the suit in action (fan made): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNgatOvVdlU Here is what's in the box: The text is all in Japanese but the directions are all pictograms. Google translate comes in very handy. This shouldn't take to long to do.
  13. this is a bit of an older kit, not as detailed as the v2's and had some flash in places but still went together nicely. biggest problem i had was painting the white, would probably have gone better if i used white primer
  14. finally finished the ball last night, dunno where the time went though i collected my camera about 9ish and took the pictures at about 5am i didnt do much in-between or just sit around doing nothing either, the decals were horrible one sheet just fell apart the other was small stickers that were quite obvious when applied to the model so i didnt bother, i might buy some tamiya 40mm tape and try cutting the EFSF lettering into it. i would post a picture of the offending sheets but i cant find them now
  15. Hello chaps! I am (sort of) pleased to present you with my 1/100 scale MSM-04 Acguy from the Gundam Universal Century Universe. The kit is from 1982 and was, frankly, a nightmare and well beyond my skill level to make half decent. It was also a series of firsts for me. First model since returning to the hobby, first airbrushed model, first painted gunpla and first attempt at weathering using washes, filters and Mig Pigments. Kit: MSM-04 Acguy (series 2, 1982) Manufacturer: Bandai Scale: 1/100 Paints used: Citadel and Vellejo Model Air Other: Mig pigments and Windsor and Newton Oils AB: Neo for Iwata Anyway, enjoy! Sorry about the quality, I only have my phone and its camera is poor to say the least. Anyone have any suggestions of cheap digital cameras that I might be able to pick up on eBay or somewhere similar? Comments, criticism and cat-calls welcome. Cheers, Paul EDIT: Poor grammar and lay-out.
  16. This is my first entry into the "Under a Tenner" GB, this is a the "Advanced Hazel" Gundam from the "Advance of Zeta" series in Japan, I had a few problems with this kit, mostly the colour. But I beat this little bugger into submission, I am playing with the idea of buying another and doing a Custom job on it. The backpack was one whole unit until I had to take the thrusters off... it decided to separate then The build thread for this can be found here. Now I have got to make the RX-0 Unicorn Gundam. This is my fav picture, I did try to get him to sit on one knee like the Ez8 does. But his legs are far too chunky for that. So this is the best I can do Tried an "in-flight" shot, not too sure if I pulled it off or not. The classic Gundam action pose, couldn't pull it off due to the limited movement of the legs. It has been a fun built despite all of the cock-ups. As always, helps/tips/criticism greatly received, what did everyone think of my "photo-booth"? Think it needs more light tho. Kind Regards Dazz
  17. Afternoon all, this, is going to be my third and final entry in the to LTAT GB; and what a crackerjack it is; Gundam MSM-07S 'Z'GOK' (char's custom) in 1/144 scale, from the HG Universal Century Gundam universe. I have never built one of these before (I only have a basic knowledge of gundam and gunpla also), I am looking forward to this build -won't be started until I have finished both of the other projects I have on the go (a week or so, I reckon). Without further ado, here are the (slightly blurry) box and bits shots! Pete
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