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Found 14 results

  1. Hello modellers, I just ordered a few things from ebay and scale model shop as well as an Aoshima aventador SV. The main things I am interested in with my order include a can of Mr super clear gloss clear coat and the tamiya polishing compound set. I am in the UK but managed to find the tamiya compounds at a reasonable but still quite expensive price. I understand that a clearcoat should be sanded to create a smooth surface and get rid of orange peel and then the compounds will buff out and remove scratches giving it a great shine. 3 questions: 1. Are the tamiya compounds the best an
  2. Hi, There's some threads regarding paint drying times, but I've a question regarding the characteristics of specifically gloss Gunze aqueous paints. I've sprayed a model with Gunze H1 -Gloss White- recently, and after almost a week, the paint is dry but it's apparent it still hasn't cured. I need to mask and spray some red ares on the model. I've read, here and there, that gloss Gunze might take a while to cure - weeks, a couple of months, even years. Any tips how to deal with this - maybe how to speed up curing time? Thanks, Jay EDIT - I've stripped the paint, and repainted it. I used, a
  3. As I’ve recently returned to modelling after an extended break techniques have changed. Currently building the Airfix 1/72 Lancaster BIII Dambuster. After having completed the painting using Vallejo acrylics I then moved to the gloss coat prior to adding decals. At this stage disaster struck. My first attempt airbrushing a mix of 75% varnish to 25% water coat of Vallejo Gloss. The coat pooled and run and dried milky even though I thought I had misted it. I then had to rub down and decided to try brushing. I used a good quality 1” acrylic brush but after 2 coats there was brush streaks all over
  4. Please does anyone know the best spray can colour to use for 50s and 60s glossy RAF camo? Would Tamiya AS-9 be the right green? Thanks!
  5. So I recently bought Tamiyas’ X-35 semi-gloss clear , I applied decals onto my model and topped it off with mr mark softer , should I add a semi-gloss clear coat above the decals ? or are there any problems I might face? Are there any extended benefits?
  6. I have been using the gloss version of this... ...with a broad flat brush for a month or two now - prior to decaling and I've been very happy with the results so far. I just wondered - does anyone use it through an airbrush. If so - does it work just as well and can anyone recommend the matt or satin versions. Advice and opinions as always - gratefully received. Thanks - Steve
  7. Hi I was looking to buy 1:48 A-10 but considering the expense of the model, I really want to make it perfect. One problem I have had in the past is decal silvering, even with Humbrol Decal Fix, so now I want to buy a varnish to help me apply them better (I have never used a varnish before). I have searched the internet and most people seem to use Alclad or Humbrol - given the fact that I have never used any Alclad products, I will look to buy Humbrol. I need a gloss varnish to apply the decals onto, however, Humbrol offer different ones: https://www.humbrol.
  8. Hi All, I've picked up a 1/200 Vulcan and have finally decided to go anti flash white (I chickened out of doing it on my last Victor...) I want to do this with spray cans. What are the best (ideally cheapest) primer and white gloss products for the job? I don't know whether to go primer > matt white > clear gloss primer > gloss white enamel vs. acrylic etc Any help to make sure this just works first time would be highly appreciated! Ta, Chris
  9. Hello all. I'm in a state of confusion at present, heh. Ok, so here's the issue. After quite a hiatus I've recently got back into some modelling. Back when I use to make models, I put them together, painted them and added the decals, and that was it. I never used varnishes or washes or weathering. For Christmas I received a Bandai 1/72 Y-Wing starfighter. A bit different from what I used to make, being a clip-kit, but I actually quite liked not having to faff around with glue, sticking the parts to myself more than the other pieces So anyway. I gave it a coat of Tamiya primer, then some fl
  10. Good day all, I'm just about to start my second model and I've been reading the forums to try to figure out in what order to do things while building a model. However ... it seems that there are a number of ways of doing things and a multitude of techniques and products. So for us new or returning to the modelling game I'd like to see if we can produce something like a modelling 101 ... the basics. Sticking with things more readily available in your local HobbyCraft, for example, is one way to get people started and to a good finish on a model without being overwhelmed by the options out
  11. Hey guys, I just purchased what I thought was future floor wax for a gloss coat, but it turned out to be something called "pledge floor care finish" will this work like future? Thanks.
  12. Hello everyone, So I finally got around to building my spitfire! Total time it took is under a week including drying, sleeping etc. This is my first build ever, I am now going to start on the Airfix 737. Let me know what you think I used the paints provided in the kit except for Revell Aqua aluminium for bits of the landing gear. I used UHU for to glue the canopy to the body. There's a pilot inside. Also, I used decalfix for the decals, decalfix worked amazingly well I'd say. Lastly sealed everything in with two thin coats of Revell Aqua Gloss. [Thanks to everyone who helped me out with
  13. Just finishing my XH558 rendering of the Airfix 1/72 kit - will post to RFI when done. It's had numerous coats of Humbrol Clear before decaling and a couple after and it's got quite a nice deep lustre about it. I'm about to do a quick panel line wash with Flory Models 'Grime' and then a final coat of varnish, final assembly and et voila! The question is should that final coat be Humbrol Clear again or Xtracrylix Satin? I've looked at loads of pictures (including the VTTS publications actually of the contemporary XH558) and it seems pretty shiny to me so I'm of a mind to stay with gloss but c
  14. Ok, this is starting to drive me crazy. I've been brush-painting Humbrol enamel gloss brunswick green onto a fairly large area of an Airfix "Beam Engine" (a steam engine used for pumping water out of mines), but the paint is like a magnet for dust! Even as I'm brushing on the paint I can see a few bit of dust settling, and when I come back after letting it dry the whole thing is just coated in dust. I've tried sanding off the dust and repainting, I had the same problem, I sanded again and tried leaving the model under a box while the paint dried and it still came out "dusty". I've worked w
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