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Showing results for tags 'enamels'.
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In 40yrs I don’t think I’ve ever gotten to the bottom of a Humbrol tinlet as they always dry up before you do. Matt black is the worse as I’m constantly using it in small amounts. Now I realise that enamels are sold in tins as they are flammable but has anyone tried decanting them to a dropper bottle? Do they keep? What are pros and cons?
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Dear All, a question to the assembled populace if you could please indulge an old chap returinig to the hobby after a gap of 30+ years with some thoughts on the issues raised below. Having discovered this fantastic forum a couple of months back I've been avidly reading all sorts of threads. Fantastic stuff. Things have moved on since I bashed kits together out of the box and slapped on any roughly appropriate paint. I still have a stash from the early 80's of 62 kits and lots of old paint. But I decided I needed to upgrade my skills before trying one from the stash that I care about as I want to do the best I can. Sooo I chose a couple of items to use as "mules" and have been cutting, sticking filing, filling and eventually painting said items with varying degrees of satisfaction. Which brings me rather long windedly to my questions : After applying my chosen dark earth and dark green enamels by brush, I waited a good 24 hrs or so before applying a varnish. It instantly darkened the colours. I have reads pages of lerned discourse about the pros and cons of various shades and whether it is right to the eye of the beholder or not , or whether compliant with such and such a spec. Does this all become "academic" if you fundamentally change the hue with a varnish? What is the collected opinion about this? It seems vital to apply a glossier finish if decals are to be applied effectively, but if I've spent good £'s acquiring the "best" available is it worth it? I look forward to any words of wisdom or assurance that may be available please. I haven't quite figured out how to post an image of what I mean, but I'm a bit ashamed of what it looks like ( do we have a "Laugh at This" section.. or perhaps RFL (Laugh) instead of RFI?) Regards, Rob -
We've been getting some useful feedback that whilst customers generally know what the schemes they're planning to use look like, the vast majority (the silent majority?) don't know what the correct terminology is and usually don't know the proper names of the paint colours used. As such, our written format names are missing the mark for most potential customers. As a result, we're investing some time (we have no budget to pay people to do this) drawing illustrations and designing more graphic labelling for our sets. Hopefully these are a little bit more visually appealing and crucially help customers both at model shows and online simply identify the scheme they want to model and have confidence they're getting the right colours to do it. It's when you start an exercise like this that you realise how many drawings are actually required! Gulp! We hope you like them
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I get through a lot of their thinners so I buy them in the 125ml size, more expensive than champagne - anyone have any tips on where to buy? Rustins tech support suggested just using white spirit however I wasn't convinced. I'm open to suggestions for different products... Thanks.
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Hi all, I looking to the collective for advice a guidance. I've been modelling on and off since the mid 1960s but I've not really considered weathering until much recently. I practice and bit and then try it out on my builds. I am now wanting to portray a Super Sabre in standard US two greens/tan/grey but where the paint has been bleached by the sun. What techniques work best for this? I am considering the following: 1. standard paint pattern but all upper paints with a dot of white or sand added, just to lighten it slightly, 2. using a flory sand to accentuate certain areas 3. use a Tamiya weathering paste set to again accentuate Would that work? I wondered about a very very light dust with a weak sand paint mixed? I'd appreciate your guidance and thoughts. Thanks. Martin
