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  1. Gustav Pt.2 Limited Edition Dual Combo (2145) Bf.109G-10 WNF/Diana ProfiPACK 1:72 Eduard With almost 34,000 examples constructed over a 10-year period, the Messerschmitt Bf.109 is one of the most widely produced aircraft in history, and saw active service in every theatre in which German armed forces were engaged. Designed in the mid-1930s, the Bf.109 shared a similar configuration to the Spitfire, utilising monocoque construction and Daimler Benz V12 engine, albeit an inverted V with fuel injection rather than a Rolls-Royce carburettor as used to power the Spitfire. Initially designed as a lightweight interceptor, like many German types during WWII, the Bf.109 evolved beyond its original brief into a bomber escort, fighter bomber, night fighter, ground-attack and reconnaissance platform. The Bf.109G series, colloquially known as the Gustav, was first produced in 1942. The airframe and wing were extensively modified to accommodate a more powerful engine, greater internal fuel capacity and additional armour. In contrast to early 109s, which were powered by engines delivering less than 700hp, some of the later Gustavs could output almost 2000hp with water injection and high-performance superchargers. The Gustav series accounted for a dizzying array of sub-variants, some of which featured a larger tail of wooden construction. Odd number suffixed aircraft had pressurised cockpits for high altitude operation, Erla Haube clear view canopy with clear rear head armour, underwing points for tanks, cannon or rockets and larger main wheels resulting in square fairings on the inner upper wings to accommodate them. The Kit This is a new boxing from Eduard of their recent tooling in this scale, and it is boxed as part two of a two-part series of Gustav kits as a Limited Edition, with two kits in the box, hence the Dual Combo tag in the top right of the lid. It arrives in a top-opening box with a dramatic painting of a brace of Gustavs in a clouded wintery sky. Inside the box are two of each of the three sprues in grey styrene, two clear sprues, four frets of Photo-Etch (PE), two in bare brass, two nickel-plated and pre-painted, a sheet of kabuki-tape pre-cut masks (not pictured), plus the instruction booklet, printed in colour on glossy paper with the ten decal option profiles on the rearmost pages. The booklet also includes a detailed discussion of the development of the Bf.109E onwards, covering all major variants separately and spanning five pages in total, with several drawings pointing out the salient changes between them, which is interesting and useful in itself. Detail on the sprues is excellent, to a similar standard as their 1:48 scale kits within limitations of size. For instance, the rudder pedals have been moulded into the cockpit floor, but they have been done using a punch-through mould that still allows them to sit at an angle to the deck without an ugly wedge behind them. It’s all very clever stuff that will result in a better model for us. Remember throughout that there are two kits in the box, and that each sprue is doubled-up, and it’s only the main decal sheet that isn’t. Construction begins with the afore mentioned cockpit floor, which has a rolled forward edge, and is detailed with a trim wheel and chain, adding the seat back, control column, replacement PE rudder pedals if you wish, the cannon breech fairing between the pedals, and a full set of crew seatbelts. The instrument panel can be made with styrene and decals or by using the pre-painted PE parts, which have an additional panel section for some decal options, and a choice of two styles of gunsight on top. The finished panel is mounted on a support that is painted cockpit colour, then is fixed to a recess on the front of the cockpit floor, putting it to one side while the fuselage is prepared. The basics for the cockpit sidewalls are moulded into the fuselage interiors, adding a large insert to the starboard that has either three PE parts or decals applied, and has the clear fuel line wrapped around it, painting the majority of the pipe interior colour, leaving a short length transparent as a visual guide for the pilot whether fuel is still flowing. The port side is upgraded with several smaller parts, cutting off one box for decal option C, which also has some changes on the opposite side. before closing the fuselage, there are some minor line filling tasks, depending on which decal option you have chosen, removing some raised portions around the cockpit opening, and filling a panel line near the front of the engine cowling. A choice of standard or extended fin inserts slides into a socket in the tail, closing the fuselage halves together and dealing with the seams once the glue is fully cured, remembering that the 109 had some panel lines top and bottom. The cockpit can then be slipped in from underneath, adding the correct rear bulkhead for your decal option, the Beule blisters in front of the cockpit, and a choice of two top engine cowling inserts, again depending on which decal option you have chosen. There is a little more filling of access panels on the aft fuselage for some decal options, then a choice of two styles of exhausts with an optional PE exhaust flare hider on both sides, plus a three-part supercharger intake trumpet on the port side. The elevators are a single span part that is slotted into the rear of your chosen tail fin, trapped in place by a suitable rudder fin, which can be adjusted to be deflected if you choose. Two decal options have the trim-tab removed from the upper trailing edge of the rudder. The lower wings are full-span out to the tip joint, and a pair of wall inserts are placed in to create the main gear bays, with a few holes drilled in the wing for some decal options. The upper wings are in halves, and have gear bay roof detail moulded-in, with separate leading-edge slat that can be retracted or deployed by removing or retaining the tab behind it. The ailerons are also separate, mounting on tabs, with the option of deflecting them, adding clear tip lights to each wing. Flipping the model over, PE radiator grilles are applied to the front and rear of the bath areas, covering them with the cowlings that have moulded-in cooling flaps that can be bent downward if you plan on posing the radiators in the open position. The chin intake is also fitted with grille inserts before the cowling is applied over it, and it is fixed in the space under the nose. Finally, flaps are inserted into the rear of the wing at the same angle as the cooling flaps. The 109’s narrow-track landing gear was the source of many a nose-over event, and they are each created from a single strut with a strong mounting-point at the top, fitting the three-part wheel, PE brake hose, and the captive bay door to each one, choosing a tail-wheel suitable for your decal option that inserts in a hole under the tail. Horn-balances are fixed in depressions under the ailerons, adding an optional aerial under the belly, and another under the port wing, removing the panel lines if it isn’t required. Some markings options have a small hole drilled under the nose, and if you intend to use the manual engine cranking handle, a 0.5mm hole will need to be drilled in the cowling to accommodate the handle as indicated on the starboard side, just in front of the Beule blisters. Many of the decal options have the later Erla-Haube canopy that has reduced framing to the canopy to improve the pilot’s situational awareness, which also reduces the number of clear parts down to two. The windscreen has a PE frame added to its rear before it is glued in, while the main canopy has the head armour and bar applied across the rear, with an optional short aerial on top at the rear. It can be glued in closed or open with a retention wire from PE, plus another choice of aerial and DF loop to keep you on your toes. A scrap diagram shows the location of the wire’s ends to give you some help. The prop is the same whichever canopy you choose, made from a single set of three blades sandwiched between the spinner and back-plate. This leads us to the traditional framed canopy, which has one of the same windscreen parts and PE frames, with a fixed aft section that has an aerial inserted into the roof. The opener has armour and cross-bar inserted in the same manner as the Erla canopy, adding a latch to the forward sill, which will require a short length of styrene rod from your stores to make the handle. It too can be posed closed or open, using the same PE retention wire as before. An actuator is attached to the rudder on the starboard side for some decal options. There is a good choice of weapons and tanks for your new model, with a choice of two external tanks on an oval pylon that is sited between the wings on the belly. Cannons in fairings can also be built from two halves plus the barrels for under the wings, just outboard of the main gear bays, but these are only appropriate for two decal options, sadly. There is also a bomb on a longer pylon with two sway-braces, with an optional level of detail. The simpler option utilises the two bomb halves, adding a perpendicular fin on a slot, and a square frame at the rear. The more complex and detailed option removes the moulded-in fin from the bomb halves, substituting it for a pair of PE fins glued to the rear, plus four PE stabilisers to the rear of the fins. The bomb is only used for decal option B though, which again is a shame. Markings There are a generous ten decal options on the large sheet, and two stencil sheets that have their locations noted separately to avoid confusion with the other decals. From the box you can build two of the following: Bf.109G-6/R6 W.Nr.160303, Hptm. Freidrich Eberle, CO of III./JG1, Volkel, The Netherlands, November 1943 – January 1944 Bf.109G-6/R1, Lt. Max-Bruno Fischer, Stab II./JG3, Evreux-Fauville, France, June 1944 Bf.109G-6, Lt. Anton Hafner, CO of 10./JG51, Tilsit-East, Soviet Union, August 1944 Bf.109G-14, Hptm. Erich Hartmann, BO of I./JG53, Veszprém, Hungary, February 1945 Bf.109G-6, W.Nr.165267, Majuri Eino Luukkanen, 1./HleLv 34, Taipalsaari, Finland, July 1944 Bf.109G-14, Oblt. Rolf Schlegel, 10./JG4, Jüterbog-Damm, Germany, March 1945 Bf.109G-14, W.Nr.465437, Hptm. Franz Dörr, CO of III./JG5, Gossen, Norway, May 1945 Bf.109G-14/U4, W.Nr.512382, Lt. Horst Schlick, 4./JG77, Schönwalde, Germany, November 1944 Bf.109G-14, W.Nr.464380, Maggiore Mario Bellagambi, CO of 5° Squadriglia, 2° Gruppo Caccia ANR, Osappo, Italy, March 1945 Bf.109G-14, W.Nr.782205, Lt. Antal Szebeni, 101/5, Vadászszázad MKHL, Börgönd, Hungary, October 1944 The decals are printed using a digital process and have good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut loosely around the printed areas. This means that the carrier film on their decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier film free, making the completed decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the carrier film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and saves a good quantity of precious modelling time into the bargain. The set includes pre-cut kabuki-tape masks for the canopies of both models, plus masks for the main wheels and tail wheels, and extras for the pilot’s head armour and the wingtip lights. Conclusion There is excellent detail throughout, and wide choice of sub-variants that include Rüstsatz, or field modifications that personalise the aircraft to the mission in hand. What’s more, there are two of them, so if you’re having problems deciding, all you must do is narrow it down to two! Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. I picked up the limited edition 1/72 Eduard Bf109f dual boxing at a model show recently. It's a really impressive kit of the quality you'd expect from Eduard and provides no less than 14 decal options. There is however one flaw that could very easily catch you out. The kit provides parts to build one Bf109F-2 (or a F-1 with some effort) and one Bf109F-4. You'd think that you could build any combination of one of the F-2 schemes and one of the F-4 schemes, but no, that is not the case. Some of the F-2s use parts from the F-4 sprues that you need for the F-4, in particular the wheel wells and upper wings. You could very easily end up being unable to complete a second model from this dual box. Seems like a bit of an oversight. I still have the F-4 to build, but I chose the F-2 scheme such that it won't impact the choices of F-4 available. As a comparison with my Zvezda Bf109F-2: You can see the WIP thread here: And then this happened...
  3. Hot off the bench and a lovely build. Lots of AM used mainly Brassin Weapons and the Quinta cockpit set. Painted with MRP and Mr Hobby paints, weathered with oils and AK weathering pencils. Link to the build:- Enjoy. https://www.flickr.com/photos/158059068@N08/53763418677/in/album-72177720314321315/
  4. P-47D-30 Thunderbolt Update Sets (for MiniArt) 1:48 Eduard Brassin MiniArt knocked the still good but ageing 1:48 Tamiya kit off the top spot as de facto standard kit in this scale recently, and as they do with many of their kits, they have released a number of variants in so-called ‘Basic’ (which is hardly basic), and ‘Advanced’ flavours. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Upgrade Set (491432) Two frets are included, one nickel-plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. In the cockpit, a complete set of new layered instrument panels, copious sidewall details in full colour, and rudder pedal improvements, with a couple of dials for the floor also supplied. For the exterior, a set of grilles for the three chin-intakes within the engine cowling are added, replacement cooling doors on the sides of the fuselage with extra bracketry are mounted in the bays on the sides, a full wiring loom for the R2800 engine is fitted after removing the wiring harness tubing from the rear of the bell-housing, new PE bay doors for the tail wheel, replacement oleo scissor-links for the main gear, a pair of dive-brake spoilers that fit into the alternative kit inserts (found on the sprues) under the wings, replacement upper gear bay covers with hinges and stand-off links, plus the vestigial door at the base of the main leg, with a scrap diagram showing its orientation. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48170) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin, and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. # This set has a full set of four-point belts that should either be used with the kit’s alternate seat parts that has no belts moulded-in, or you could cut the belts off the other seat if you feel like making work for yourself! The belt buckle also has a comfort pad added underneath. The instrument panel consists of two main decals for the majority of the panel, plus a hanging centre console that is applied to a new PE part and attaches under the main panel. Two more decals are used on the starboard diagonal section of the panel, after removing all the moulded-in detail that is indicated on the instructions in red. The sidewalls are similarly upgraded, the starboard side also using PE parts to create supports for two of the instruments, and shaving the front off an equipment box to apply a new face. The starboard side has a stunning fourteen decals applied over moulded-in detail that is first removed, leaving an extremely well-appointed cockpit. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1433) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the crew belts, you also get a pad that sits under the buckles to prevent them from digging into the pilot’s lap. Masks (EX1025) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for all three wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Masks Tface (EX1026) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the inside of the glazing so that you can paint the model canopy’s interior and give your kit that extra bit of realism. Having used these sets on my own models now, I can confirm that they are extremely accurate, and it's good practice to place the outer masks first to act as a guide for alignment of the inner masks. Conclusion Use some or all of these to make a good kit better, whilst reducing the amount of detailed painting and scratch-building you’ll need to do in order to even partially represent the same level of detail as is seen here. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  5. First post for a while so a new build, thought a Vietnam era A-1 would just be the ticket. Armed with a bit of aftermarket like the lovely Brassin seat and some Quinta office decals I thought why not. Not much progress so far just the basic's of the pit. The seat is a real gem and paints up really well. Enjoy folks
  6. P-51B/C Upgrade Sets (for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Brassin We’ve just reviewed the new ‘razor-back’ Mustang in Limited Edition D-Day form here, and it’s a stunning kit, with lots of detail baked into the styrene. For those of us that want even more detail, Eduard have us covered with these new sets that include double-sided TFace masks for the two canopy styles (blown & framed), plus bronze gear legs, a seat, exhausts, wheels with a choice of tread patterns, and a comprehensive set of gun bay enhancements that will fill the spaces in the wings that are marked out on the kit parts. We have seven sets including the masks in to review, but there are plenty more available to tempt you to open your wallet, and if you pick them all up, you’ll need the bronze gear legs to cope with the additional weight! Gun Bays (648997) This largest set arrives in a large Brassin cardboard box, with the resin and Photo-Etch (PE) parts cocooned in their own Ziploc bags, protected by a pair of sheets of foam top and bottom, and the instruction booklet that is wrapped around the package during closure at the factory. There are twenty resin parts, and the fret of PE contains a few more, with sufficient parts to build a pair of handed gun bays, one for each wing. Detail is exquisite thanks to the 3D printed nature of most of the parts, requiring them to be cut away from the finger-like supports that prevent them sagging during printing, and link them to the flat print base underneath. The port bay is dealt with first, adding resin supports to the beautifully detailed bay shell, then mounting the breeches of the .50cal machine guns at an angle, wiring them to a resin actuator with some 0.2mm wire from your own supplies, totalling five in all that are picked out on the instructions in different colours to assist you with their location, while the lengths of the wires are called out on the individual drawings. The double run of ammunition that feeds the gun is printed as a single part for the narrower area of the bay, adding a separate section that curves around to orient itself with the breeches of the guns. The starboard wing is built in the same manner, only in mirror image, then the bay panels are shown being cut from the kit’s upper wing, following the thinned out lines on the interior of the parts, which is a great help. The bays are inserted into the corresponding recess in the lower wing, and the upper wing is placed over the top, adding PE strips to the forward edges of the ammo feeds, and a resin bay door in the vertical position, hinged forward, and with two PE latches sticking up that should be painted the same colour as the exterior of the wing, as should the bay doors. The other bay doors are also supplied, and are generally removed by the armourers to access the bays, then laid either on the wing or elsewhere nearby, ready to go back on once the reloading or maintenance job is complete. These parts are realistically thin, and have detail printed on both sides for realism. Colour call-outs in Gunze Sangyo paint codes are given through the build process, with acrylic and lacquer codes side-by-side. Wheels (Various Tread Patterns) Kit wheels are generally in two halves, which means you have the resultant joins to deal with, possible mould-slip issues on single part wheels, and sometimes less than stellar detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the tread department. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seamline and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are usually a drop-in replacement. This 3D printed set contains two main wheels with separate outer hubs that are printed as a pair on a separate base, plus a rugged tail-wheel to fix to the kit struts. There are several sets available, but we have just the diamond treaded set that are pictured here. The other sets can be seen and/or purchased from the links below: Diamond Tread Seen Above (648986) Oval Tread (648987) Cross Tread (648988) Block Tread (648989) Diamond Tread 2 (648990) Each set also includes a sheet of pre-cut kabuki-tape masks for the wheels that allow you to cut perfect demarcations between the tyres and hubs of all the wheels with little effort. Exhaust Stacks (648992) Containing two drop-in replacements for the kit exhausts, these parts have finer detail and hollow tips that will give your model a more realistic look. As well as the parts pictured, there are also another type that has fairings around the pipes, which you can see by following the second link below: Exhaust Stacks with Fairing (648993) Undercarriage Legs BRONZE (648994) These replacement main gear legs for the Mustang offer extra strength and sharpness to your model, plus finer details such as the brake hoses and supports that can’t be moulded in injection styrene. They have minimal clean-up that will need to be done with a file due to the metal’s robust nature, and they also come with a full set of resin gear bay doors that are highly detailed and are closer to scale thickness than the kit parts. Seat Type 1 PRINT (6481002) A replacement 3D printed seat for your Mustang that provides more detail than the kit seat, plus a set of PE Steel four-point seatbelts for the pilot, complete with comfort pads under the buckles. There are two styles, the Type 2 can be seen by following the second link below: Seat Type 2 (6481003) Tface Masks Framed Canopy & Malcolm Hood (EX1036 & EX1037) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy both inside and out, with any compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels and landing light, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. There is one set sold separately for each of the canopies used by the P-51B/C, known as the Framed Canopy and the Malcolm Hood, and they will give the canopies a very realistic look once completed and the masks removed. Framed Canopy (EX1036) Malcolm Hood (EX1037) Conclusion The detail is phenomenal on all the resin sets and their comparative simplicity of construction is commendable, while the masks ease the painting and preservation of the clarity of the canopy. Pick the sets that appeal to you or your budget, or go mad and get a raft of them to build the ultimate Mustang for your cabinet. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. My New Year's resolution was to only build from The Stash and not buy any new kits. I've done really well! But then I saw the fun that @Mike had with the new Eduard Wildcat and I thought that I want some of that! So I broke my resolution. It was only ever a matter of time as the Airfix Bulldog is due for release imminently... There are lots and lots of interesting schemes for the Wildcat (maybe we need a Wildcat STGB...) but I thought it would be nice to continue the Yellow Wings theme from my Vindicator elsewhere in this GB. This is the Weekend boxing of the Eduard 1/48 F4F-3 Wildcat, and what a beauty it is. The first thing to notice is that it's in quite a big box for such a small aircraft. However... I feel that the box is a bit too shallow. No matter how one packs the parts, the box top bulges outwards which could cause problems. Having said that, there do not appear to be any issues in my kit. Mike has reviewed this kit elsewhere on BM and has kindly allowed me to link to photos in BM reviews. They are far better than any photos I could take. Here are the parts. Note: I have the Weekend version of the kit, so there are no masks in mine. This is gonna be fun! Here is the link to Mike's BM review.
  8. Hi all, I've decided to declare this one as a runner after she failed to get out of the box within the Mustang GB. I;m way too late and so I'll give her a go here. I might be overcooking things with a Kfir in prospect too but at least they dont require any butchery ;). The F-51D will be built using the new Eduard kit which is said to be delivered at the end of June 🤞. Martin
  9. Overlord – D-Day P-51B Mustangs Limited Edition (11181) 1:48 Eduard The P-51 was developed by the North American Aviation company as a potential fighter for Great Britain, but due to the poor performance of the original Allinson engine at altitude it wasn’t suitable, especially for a specification that included combat at high altitude over Britain. Happily, in an attempt to correct this deficiency they decided to strap a Rolls-Royce Merlin engine to front of the airframe and it brought out the best of its design, which included the energy efficient laminar flow wing that gave it the potential to escort Allied bombers all the way to Berlin with the addition of drop-tanks and a lean fuel mixture when not in combat. It was flown in this guise as the Mustang III in British service, and as the P-51B/C in US service with a “razor-back” spine and scalloped rear-view windows behind the cockpit, until some bright spark took a blown hood that had been used successfully on the Spitfire and fitted it to British Mustangs, garnering the nickname Malcolm Hood after its originator. The P-51D was altered to have a bubble canopy and cut-down aft fuselage that improved the pilot’s situational awareness, with an additional fin-fillet added later to regain some of the stability that had been lost by the new shape and fuel tank location. In British service it was known as the Mustang Mk.IV, and the same variant made at the Dallas factory with hollow AeroProducts props that was designated P-51K in US service was known as the Mk.IVa in RAF service to differentiate. Sadly, the hollow prop was prone to vibration thanks to some inferior quality control at the factory, so was often swapped out in the field. The P-51D is the Mustang that most people think of when they hear the name, unless they’re more of a petrol head or a bit horsey, although us modellers are more likely to ask “which variant?”. The Kit Eduard graced the market with a brand-new P-51D in 2019, bringing exquisite detail and fit that became the new de facto standard for many people in 1:48 scale, and now we have the earlier B series, with this initial boxing released as a Limited Edition Dual-Combo, with two kits in the box, providing ProfiPACK levels of detail, and a choice of framed canopy or Malcolm Hood glazing for both kits. The kit(s) arrives in a large top-opening box with some dramatic artwork of a brace of Mustangs flying over the invasion fleet on D-Day, before the sun has fully risen, giving it a gloomy darkness, while the aircraft are catching the sunlight of the new dawn. Some parts have been carried over into new sprues for this variant, although the layouts are substantially different, apart from the weapons sprue that is reused in its entirety. There are twelve sprues in a dark blue-grey styrene, four sprues of clear parts in individual Ziploc bags, two frets of Photo-Etch (PE) in their own bag with a card support between them, a large sheet of yellow kabuki-tape masking material that has been pre-cut to shape (not pictured), five decal sheets of varying size that includes one gigantic sheet and two sheets of stencils, plus the instruction booklet that is printed in colour in portrait A4 on glossy paper throughout, with decaling profiles taking up almost half the booklet. Detail is just what we now expect from Eduard, and won’t disappoint, unless you expect it to fly off your workbench when complete. As well as a huge amount of detail from the box, there are also engineering touches that have been included that will allow those with a hankering for yet more detail to utilise the resin and 3D printed aftermarket sets that Eduard themselves have created to accompany this release, including thinned areas in the wings for the gun bays, and a cut-line behind the engine where a resin upgrade can be purchased and inserted, taking away the worries of knowing where to cut your precious model. You can also be assured that fit will be perfect, as we’ve found out before with Eduard’s newly tooled kits and their aftermarket. Note: The sprue photos below depict only one set of sprues and ancillaries from the box. Remember that there are two of everything other than the main decal sheet and the two errata sheet included in this initial pressing. Construction begins with the pilot’s seat, which is built up with a choice of traditional or framework seat with PE belts for either option, then the cockpit floor and fuel tanks are added in, with framework on top, and a divide between it and the cockpit that has the seatbelt tensioner removed and replaced by a new part. A couple of hoses in a V-shape are sited behind the seat, adding a control column with gaiter in front, and a fuel gauge on the floor at the pilot’s feet. Behind the pilot is a series of boxes that includes the radio equipment that are shown with connecting wires in wire-frame, firming up locations with a pair of scrap diagrams and notes where optional decals can be applied. Another PE dial is applied to the front of a small PE housing that is raised from the floor, and it is already shaping up to be an exceptionally well-detailed cockpit. The starboard side wall frame has details added aplenty, with a choice of two equipment fits for the various decal options, removing the front of one box to replace it with a more detailed PE face. It is installed in the port fuselage side after painting the interior sections noted in the instructions, adding an oxygen hose, a section of wing fillet and the backing for the exhaust stubs at the front, then the tail-wheel bay is made up with separate wheel and strut, fitting the radiator pathway and a spinner backing-plate into the port fuselage along with a grille and another exhaust backing panel, plus another highly detailed side wall frame, again with a choice of two equipment fits, and a wide oval PE grille to the belly intake before they are closed up. A choice of two styles of rear canopy panels is provided depending on which marking option you have chosen. The wheel bays are built up next with some advice regarding colour added along the way, splitting the bay down the middle and bracketing it front and back with bay walls that have partial ribs added once in place, and here the fit is exceptional, as is the detail. This assembly is fitted to the full-width lower wing and joined by a leading-edge landing light and a single clear part for the three identification lights, drilling out holes in the lower wing for bombs or fuel tanks if you intend to use them. The wing uppers go on and the aileron tabs fit into slots in their recesses, with some room for deflecting them if you wish. On the leading edge is an insert for the guns with separate barrel inserts, adding a tiny tip light over and under the wingtips as they are mated with the fuselage. Then the empennage is begun, slotting the elevator fins with separate flying surfaces into slots horizontally, while the fabric covered rudder can be fitted at any sensible angle, all flying surfaces being a single thickness part with a sharp trailing edge. The instrument panel gives you a choice of styrene or PE options, depending on which you prefer, the more detailed option layering two pre-painted PE parts for the main panel and the smaller central section, adding PE levers to complete it. The styrene option is made from two parts, and has two decals to represent the dials. The coaming is detailed with de-fogging jets, gluing the panel under it, and mounting a choice of gunsight on top, then hanging the rudder pedals from pegs behind the instrument panel. It is dropped into the front of the cockpit, and a scrap diagram shows it from the side, ensuring it is suspended vertically, perpendicular to the sill. A PE panel is glued to the cowling behind the exhaust exit on the port side for some decal options, flipping the model over to install the outlets for the radiator, the larger aft exit held in place by a vertical actuator. A V-shaped PE actuator holds the tail bay doors in position, and the intake lip is fitted along with a PE splitter under the belly, removing a raised area behind it, to be replaced by a new PE part. Under the nose are a pair of inserts that are either solid or perforated depending on which decal option you have chosen. The smiley chin-intake lip is fitted under the prop back-plate, then it’s time to build the landing gear. The tyres are moulded in halves, and have diamond tread with hub caps added from either side before they’re fitted to the struts, which have separate styrene scissor-links and door actuators slotted into place. The flaps are each made up from two styrene parts with a tiny piece of PE added to the inner end of each one and a decal on the curved leading edge after painting, which you’ll have to remember to add later. Main gear and flaps are all slotted in place on the underside along with the captive outer bay doors, inner doors with actuators and a pitot probe under the port wing, and at that point you can rest her on her wheels for the first time. The prop is made from two paired blades that fit perpendicular to each other between the two spinner halves and separate back-plate, fitting it to the front of the fuselage in case you weren’t sure. Depending on the marking options you have chosen, either the framed canopy of the blown hood are fitted, gluing the windscreen into the front along with your choice of rear-view mirror at the apex. For the framed canopy, the closed option has a single part to be glued into place, using two different parts for the open, one part having the upper section moulded open, while the lower section hangs down against the side of the fuselage. The blown canopy option has the windscreen glued in place, then the closed canopy can be glued over the remaining space, or you can cover the sills and the rear hoop with PE parts and slide the canopy to the rear. A backup ring-and-bead gunsight is fitted, the ring inside the canopy, the bead on a short post on the top cowling, drilling a 0.2mm hole in the deck first. Some decal options have a choice of recognition light over the rear of the cockpit, while others have a choice of two types of aerial mast. One marking option has a PE mast and a short length of wire from your own supplies drilled into the spine behind the cockpit. Both canopy types have the exhausts made from two parts each, fitting them into the slots in the cowling after painting them a suitable hot-metal colour. The weapons and drop tanks are last to be made, with a choice of two tank types that all share the same type of pylon, which can also carry a pair of bombs for two of the markings. The bomb bodies are each moulded in halves, adding a two-part tail fin behind, painting them olive drab with a yellow nose, and adding a little wear-and-tear, as unbelievably, the operators didn’t treat them with much care or respect. while a few spare weapons are left on the sprue, including a set of five rockets under the wings, which have separate tails and moulded-in launch-rails, plus linked three tube-carried rockets in a triangular cluster. Markings There are ten decal options on the large sheet, with a variety of US schemes and even a British (Polish Squadron) option if you’re interested. The stencils are found on a separate sheet for each model, with the back page of the instructions covering their application, away from the other profiles to avoid replication and over-complication. There are a couple of small errata sheets included with this boxing, covering the instrument panels times four, and a different background colour for one of the nose art options. From the box you can build two of the following: P-51B-10-NA, S/n.43-6934, Capt. Henry White, 328th FS, 352rd FG, 8th AF, Bodney, Great Britain, June 1944 P-51B-10-NA, S/n.42-106472, Lt. Carlton Fuhrman, 486th FS, 352nd FG, 8th AF, Bodney, Great Britain, June 1944 P-51B-10-NA, S/n.43-6688, 1st Lt. Arval J Robertson, 262nd FS, 357th FG, 8th AF, Leiston, Great Britain, June 1944 P_51C-1-NT, S/n.42-103309, Lt. William B Overstreet, 363rd FS, 357th FG, 8th AF, Leiston, Great Britain, June 1944 P-51B-10-NA, S/n.42-106448, Cpt. Henry W Brown, 354th FS, 355th FG, 8th AF, Steeple Morden, Great Britain, June 1944 P-51B-15-NA, S/n.42-106924, 2nd Lt Ralph K Hofer, 334th FS, 4th FG, 8th AF, Debden, Great Britain, June 1944 P-51B-5-NA, S/n.43-6425, Maj. Jack T Bradley, CO of 353rd FS, 354th FG, 9th AF, A.2 Criqueville, France, June 1944 P-51B-10-NA, S/n.42-106647, Capt. John R Brown Jr., 382nd FS, 363rd FG, 9th AF, Staplehurts, Great Britain, June 1944 P-51B-15-NA, S/n.42-106763, Capt. George R Rew, 374th FS, 361st FG, 8th AF, Great Britain, June 1944 Mustang Mk.III, FB382, S/Ldr. Eugeniusz Horbaczewski, No.315 (Polis) Sqn., RAF Coolham, Great Britain, June 1944 The decals are printed using a digital process and have good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut loosely around the printed areas. This means that the carrier film on their decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier film free, making the completed decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the carrier film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and saves a good quantity of precious modelling time into the bargain. Conclusion We’ve been waiting for the earlier Mustangs for a while now, and here they are. The detail is exceptional, even down to the lack of rivets on the upper surfaces of the wings, which were often puttied over to squeeze extra speed out of the aircraft in a competition where the end result meant life or death. This boxing brings two Mustangs to the party, complete with extra PE detail to improve your models, and a huge choice of decal options. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  10. Eduard is to release a new mould from the 1/48th Focke-Wulf Fw.190A. Source: http://www.detailscaleview.com/2015/11/new-products-from-novemberfest-2015.html 3D renders V.P.
  11. Freedom Tiger Limited Edition (11182) 1:48 Eduard The Northrop F-5 originated as a light fighter design with supersonic capability in the 1950s, initially as an independent project. The designers created a small, light-weight airframe that was powered by a pair of General Electric (GE) J85 engines, with the remit to make it cost-effective (no jet is cheap to run) and relatively easy to maintain, whilst being relatively cheap to procure, which would make it a tempting proposition to foreign buyers. Entering service in the 60s, it was sold overseas in large numbers, and to the US forces as the T-38 Talon supersonic trainer, where it was used to teach new pilots the techniques of supersonic combat. In the early 70s, a new generation under the designation F-5E was introduced, flying under the name Tiger II with aerodynamic, propulsion and avionics improvements that gave it a completely new lease of life, making for an equally tempting prospect for overseas customers, and flying under the stars-and-bars in large numbers in Vietnam and beyond, with more than a few hundred of the various developments still flying today. The Talon has been used extensively as an adversary trainer for in-service aircraft, as it can be flown in a manner representing aircraft of the potential enemy, giving pilots a taste of what a possible war could be like. Many upgrades and foreign customer variants have been made over the years, and the F-5G was to be a major improvement, eventually being renamed the F-20 Tigershark, running a single, more powerful engine and advanced avionics that gave it capabilities akin to the F-16 of the time, which worked against it when it came to export opportunities, and eventually led to its cancellation during the Carter administration. Other variants include specialised reconnaissance airframes, plus two-seat trainers that are in use with foreign operators as conversion trainers, as well as in the famous NASA white with a blue cheatline. The Kit This kit is based upon the 2010 tooling by AFV Club that I recall being welcomed with open arms by our hobby after a dearth of new kits in 1:48 for a long time. It’s a while since I have looked inside the box of the original kits, but it’s good to see it again, and it still offers plenty of detail. The kit arrives in a Limited Edition top-opening box, and inside are seven sprues and a fuselage part in light grey styrene, a clear sprue, three frets of Photo-Etch (PE), one of which is pre-painted, a slip of acetate sheet printed with HUD glazing, resin wheels and some smaller parts in various grey shades, a sheet of kabuki-style masking material in yellow (not pictured), three decal sheets, and the instruction booklet printed in colour on A4+ glossy paper, with colour profiles that take up the rear half of the booklet. As I alluded earlier, the detail is good for this kit, which is now fourteen years old (time flies!), and the extras that Eduard have included will bring it right up to date. Keep your eye out for a few minor sink marks along the way, and you won’t go far wrong. Construction begins with the ejection seat that is built from five parts and augmented with ten small PE detail parts, plus a full set of four-point crew belts, which takes a further twelve PE parts. The cockpit tub is covered with ejector-pin marks, but before you throw up your hands and pronounce it 'unbuildable', they’re covered by two side consoles that have their detail scraped off to be replaced by PE parts, and at the rear behind the pilot, the deck is covered with extra parts, and more PE on the bulkhead behind the seat. You now have a choice whether to pose the canopy open or closed, and as usual the closed option is the simplest, consisting of just three parts including the solid rear section of the hood. To pose it open requires a little more work to add detail to the hood, removing two lugs, then adding a skin to the front and underside of the part, and making good the lugs by replacing them with PE parts that are much more detailed. Two inner side skins are fitted, then a pair of longer scissor-link jacks are installed, adding more PE details to complete the upgrade. The instrument panel is built in two sections, first removing the moulded-in details from the front of the parts, then adding a lamination of two layers of pre-painted PE totalling six parts, plus several levers and pull-toggles. The HUD is folded up from PE and has a piece of the acetate sheet cut to match, removing the styrene part from the top and replacing it with the new in-scale HUD and two supports to the sides. The lower portion of the panel is glued under it, and rudder pedals are fitted behind, after skinning the foot-plates with new PE parts to improve them. The nose of the aircraft is next, covering the port side avionics bay cut-out with a pair of bay doors, taking care to align them carefully to reduce clean-up. The two interior surfaces have the cockpit side walls moulded-in, and these are detail painted and have half a dozen PE detail parts each side added before the cockpit tub is sandwiched between them and joined by the underside, into which the nose gear bay has been glued. A PE AoA probe is fitted into a drilled-out hole on the starboard side, mounting the instrument coaming and a curved plate to the front of the cockpit cut-out, finishing the nose by adding the nose cone and the twin gun barrels that project from troughs in the upper nose, painting them according to the marking option you have chosen. A single PE part is folded to shape and covers both the sills and the hoop at the rear of the cockpit, folding the part twice to match the cockpit’s shape. The main fuselage part has been engineered to squeeze multiple options from the one part, adding the main intake trunks to both sides at the front, and deciding whether to portray the engines running by inserting the auxiliary intakes in the open position on the sides, or the closed insert for a parked aircraft. The aft section of the fuselage mates with the main fuselage at an angle, quickly building the core of the wing from the full-width underside and two upper wing parts, remembering to drill out holes in the underside if you plan on using stores on your model. Splitter plates and intake lips are added to the front of the trunking, with PE plates inserted into recesses near the front, then the rest of the wings are made, adding two-part flaps at the rear, leading edge slats, and short Leading Edge Root Extensions (LERX) along the trunking. The elevators are a single part linked by a rod, and they are held in place by adding an insert under the tail, then capping the rear with a small part after removing a small lug near the top. Each exhaust is made from the outer ‘can’, with representation of the aft of the afterburner at the forward end, sliding each one into a hole in the rear of the fuselage, with optional triangular fairings on the side panels. A scrap diagram shows the correct orientation of the nozzles from above, which should be flush with the fuselage sides. The tail fin is made with a separate rudder, removing a small section at the tip for some markings, and fitting a flat PE plate for others, slotting the finished assembly into the top of the fuselage on two tabs. The nose assembly is then joined to the fuselage, with a pair of resin bulges glued low on the sides for some decal options. The nose gear is first to be built, starting with the strut, which can be posed ready for take-off or for ground-handling by adding the same accessory parts to a different strut part, then mounting the highly-detailed resin nose wheel on the cross-axle. It is inserted into the deep bay, with two doors to the side and rear, mounting some antennae around it, the fit depending on the decal option you have chosen. The main gear legs are each single struts with brake detail moulded into the lower leg, supported by a retraction jack that mounts across the bay, with a captive bay door attached by a trio of short linkages, finished off with more resin wheels. The inner gear bay doors are posed at an angle with the gear down, or installed flush at your choice, so check your references. A small arrestor hook is fitted to a fairing in the belly, then another choice of whether to deploy the air brakes in front of the main gear bays, or leave them flush, with the same choice available for the clear landing lights that are located under the intake trunking. All modern jets are usually short of fuel due to their high performance and limited internal space, making a 1042L tank from two halves plus a socket for one of the poly-caps and two stabilising winglets to the rear, and two more 568L tanks that differ in construction because they have two fins moulded-in, and a third vertical fin added during assembly. The larger tank attaches via a pylon under the belly, with a choice of two types of sway braces, the shorter one used at the front under with or without a tank, and an optional longer pin at the rear when the tank is in place. A similar fixture is used for the underwing pylons, the pair of tanks usually sited on the inner station, leaving the outer positions for munitions. A pair of AIM-9 sidewinders are made from a missile body with separate fins and exhaust, one fitted to each wingtip rail that was installed earlier, or an optional training round with no fins and an antenna on the nose. The canopy is augmented by PE parts all the way around the perimeter, including rear-view mirrors at the front, locking clasps to the sides, and a detail panel at the rear. This is glued to the opener that was built earlier in the open or closed position, gluing the windscreen into position over the coaming. A PE blade antenna with base is fitted behind the cockpit, and a probe is inserted into the tip of the nosecone, making a two-part access ladder that can be hooked over the port cockpit sill for your pilot to use, which will be especially useful if you plan on adding a diorama base to your model. Markings Technically there are nine decal options on the sheets, although two represent one aircraft at different times in its career, with minimal changes to its markings. Each option has a full page of profiles dedicated to it, plus its weapons, pylons and tanks where appropriate. From the box you can build one of the following: 73-00878, 63rd Tactical Wing, RVNAF, Bien Hoa, South Vietnam, 1974 73-00878, Socialist Republic of Vietnam, Renovation for the Aviation Museum Kbely, Prague, Czech Republic, 2023 VFC-13 ‘Fighting Saints’, US Navy, NAS Fallon, Nevada, USA, 1998 Maj. Lenny Bucko, NSFTIP, US Marines, MCAS Miramar, California, USA, 1983 73-0897, 57th Fighter Weapons Wing, 65th Fighter Weapons Sqn., US Air Force, Nellis AFB, US, 1981 VFA-127 ‘Cylons’, Capt. Jerry B Singleton, US Navy, NAS Fallon, Nevada, USA, 1993 425th Sqn., 58th TFTW, Luke AFB, US Air Force, Arizona, USA, Late 70s 1°/14° GAV ‘Esquadrão Pampa’, FAB, Canoas AB, Brazil, 2005 211 Sqn., Wing 21, Royal Thai Air Force, Udon Ratchathani AB, Thailand, Late 90s The decals are printed using a digital process and have good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut loosely around the printed areas. This means that the carrier film on their decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier film free, making the completed decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the carrier film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and saves a good quantity of precious modelling time into the bargain. At the rear of the profiles is a separate page where the common stencil decals are shown applied to a set of greyscale drawings to avoid over-complicating the other profiles. In addition, another page before the main profiles shows the location of the masks for the canopy, which includes extra masks to create a narrow rubber seal neatly around the canopy glazing in eight simple steps, plus masks for the resin wheels that are included in this boxing. Conclusion The AFV Club kit is a good base to start with, and the addition of the extras such as the extensive PE and the resin wheels brings a lot to improve it, which coupled with a wide choice of decal options, makes an impressive and tempting package. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  12. I believe this is the Gavia kit inside the Eduard box, which is now over 20 years old. It's not too bad, although I will say it does benefit you to test fit everything at least twice. The Czech Air Force had several batches of La-7s delivered just after the end of the war. Designated the S-97, most served less than 2 years front line service as the factory would only guarantee the glue bonds in the wooden airframe for 2 years. Upon inspection, some aircraft soldiered on until about 1950 when they were all withdrawn from service. I found some profiles which show some of these aircraft painted in the green over blue, probably towards the end of their service life. They should have some white, or black squadron letters on the fuselage side, but I didn't have the appropriate size letters, so this will just have to do. I also added a pilot figure from the spares box, I think he was a Luftwaffe air gunner, but he's changed sides. Thanks for looking.
  13. I am a little late to the party, but here I am! I know I'm not alone building one of these 1/72 Eduard Bf 110 kits for this GB, and it looks great! I won't bother with sprue shots. I'll be building it OOB as one of these Bf 110 that the Luftwaffe sent to Iraq. I think I attempted to build a Bf 110 (must have been Airfix) in the 1990s as a kid, but pretty sure it never made it to the finish line, so let's hope this goes differently!
  14. Thanks "hawkeye" Tbolt (link) ! Is Eduard to release soon a new tool (?) 1/72nd North American P-51D kit? Let's have a look at page 52 of this month Eduard Info Vol.20 May 2021. Source: https://www.eduard.com/out/media/InfoEduard/archive/2021/info-eduard-2021-05-enrr.pdf V.P.
  15. Due to the timing of the release and the fact that all the decal options are geared towards D-Day, I'm sure Eduard's new pony will be a popular subject for this GB, but I'll still jump on the train anyways. But instead of doing one of the kit markings, I will be using an Aeromaster sheet to do the Mustang flown by Maj Ray "X-Ray Eyes" Wetmore who finished the war as the 359th FG's top gun with 21.25 aerial kills. Wetmore flew this aircraft from May 7th until he completed his first tour of duty on July 2nd and was rotated home. During this time he scored 4 kills; 2 Bf-109s on May 19th and 2 Fw-190s on May 29th. The first 109 on May 19th was his 5th kill, making him the group's second ace. More importantly for this group build, it was the plane he would've flown on D-Day. The second photo shows the Mustang shortly after invasion stripes were applied and features a red scoreboard with 13 crosses that indicate the 4 grounds kills and 8.25 air kills Wetmore had amassed by this time. As for the 359th FG as a whole, June 6th was just the beginning of a busy and costly month. On that "Day of Days", the briefing for the first mission took place at 0200 and the last plane landed at 2315. In all, 6 sorties were flown: 1 air patrol, 1 escort and 4 dive bombing/strafing/ground attack. When pilots returned from one mission they would try to catch a nap wherever they could, still in full flight gear, so they were ready at a moment's notice to get back in the air. June 7th saw the group fly 3 more missions, followed by 3 on the 8th and 4 on the 10th. In that first week following the invasion, the Unicorns (yes, the official group emblem featured a unicorn) flew 21 missions in 7 days but it came at the cost of 11 pilots killed or captured, including John "Posty" Booth, one of the top aces in the group with 8 kills. During the month of June 17 pilots were lost including a squadron commander, operations officer and 4 flight leaders. But the sacrifice was not in vein. Flying mostly air patrol and ground attack missions during the month in support of the advancing ground forces, rough estimates for damage inflicted on the enemy included 16 locomotives destroyed and 31 damaged, 18 armored vehicles destroyed and 48 damaged and 2 ammunition trains blown to smithereens. This was done by way of expending some 128,000 rounds of incendiary armor piercing ammunition and the dropping of roughly 97 tons of bombs.
  16. Hello all, Hadn't planned on entering this GB but having looked at my display shelves, there is a distinct lack of P-51s (total of 0) so that will need rectified! My entry will be a P-51D-10 of the 363rd Fighter Squadron, 357th Fighter Group, 8th Air Force, based at Leiston, Suffolk, in late 1944. A scheme I've always liked, 'Old Crow' was flown by Captain (at the time) Clarence 'Bud' Anderson, who went on to down 16 1⁄4 aircraft during the war. My first dabble with the Eduard P-51 and I'm looking forward to it - I do have another two in the stash and will add the B/C when released. Will be completely OOB as the kit comes with some lovely resin, masks and etch. Dave
  17. The second of the small but colourful builds is this pair of Skyhawk's, As to the markings for these I am spoilt for choice, the A-4F has some colourful tails and a 'Desert Bogeys' scheme , whilst the A-4E has a couple of nice options. Here are the photos of these tiny jets, I may send for some Master refuelling probes for these. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr Cheers for now. John
  18. Source: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/308021-eduard-mig-21f-mig-21-uusum-in-48th-scale/&do=findComment&comment=2957764 V.P.
  19. Halberd Models has just announced for October 2022 a 1/48th Piper Enforcer conversion set for the Eduard's P-51D or F-6D/K kits. Source: https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=pfbid02Dy9kejba5QXzYbgJxvHXk1r2H1aEbMWF5tsfj4NKZJLz6sCyyLmW5vDhfjgfxwzrl&id=100064057054695 ] V.P.
  20. I'm quite excited to start this! Here's a box shot - I'll be building Eduard's 1/48 P-51D, in markings of an aircraft flown by Lt James Hickey, out of Martlesham Heath. My late father was RAF groundcrew, and based at Martlesham until it became an American base in 1943, when he was transferred to work on Wellington bombers at Chipping Warden. So, a family connection, albeit a slightly tenuous one!
  21. Hi all, thought I'd put my placeholder down for this GB I will be building Eduard's P-51D-20 Mustang as an RAF 19 Squadron Mustang Mk.IV in 1945 Here's the obligatory kit photos 🙂 Couple of parts appear to have come off - especially one of the canopies on the clear sprue wheel. AM is Look Instrument panel, Brassin Wheels and Exhausts and Xtradecal Decals Still working on my Beaufighter build in the WW2 Twins Mega Build but can't wait for the off on this one Thanks for looking Many regards Matt
  22. Finally back in the land of modelling - my entry for this GB will be Eduard's reboxing of the Hasegawa GR7 / GR9 Harrier. As this is the NATO GB it will not be a Harrier based in the MIddle East so as not to build build yet another fully grey aircraft I will build one with white or green on it !! Onto the starting pictures , all new and packaged up The included Resin , PE and Decals
  23. The latest kit off of the bench - made as a retirement gift for one of my colleagues. Our firm was originally a Napier factory, so he wanted something with a big Napier engine in it! The aircraft depicted is SN330 flown by Sqn Ldr Macfie of 3 Sqn RAF, Germany 1947. This aircraft was refurbished by Hawker post war and sprayed High Speed Silver before redelivery to the RAF. The only photo of the aircraft has it fitted with rocket rails, so the model is too! Kit was built from the Royal Class boxing, using the included Resin Exhausts and etch set. Painted with Mr Color 159 ‘Super Silver’ which I think is perfect for the RAF high speed silver. Finished with an oil wash, exhaust staining with Tamiya smoke and finished with Mr Color satin varnish. I omitted the framing around the radiator air filter as the Photo etch was a nightmare - if I had more time I may have attempted to scratch build something with Plasticard. Cockpit made up into a stunning replica, having built the special hobby 1/32 Tempest cockpit, this one was a dream to put together in comparison. Surface detail on the kit is lovely, but trying to maintain it when sanding some of the more tricky seams is difficult - particularly the join between fuselage and flaps: The design of the trailing edge is truly terrible, hence the filler! I believe they have amended this on their Mk.ii tempest. Other than that a lovely kit, next up is the Series 1 aircraft from the same boxing 🙂 Thanks for looking! Ash P.S - Props to @Ben Hartmannfor lending me ‘RAF Stotfold’ for the afternoon to shoot some good outdoor snaps 😉 P.P.S - Apologies if you’ve seen this model on any social media already!
  24. This is the brilliant 1/72 Eduard Spitfire IXe in Royal Danish Air Force markings. I added Eduard Merlin engine and wing cannon resin. Adding the resin parts was not an easy task, but in the end i think it turned out ok. Thanks for watching. Drakendk
  25. Hi All. With the Centurion complete, I thought I'd knock out this MiG-15 using the Eduard Profi Kit in 1/72. This will be built OOB with the wheels up, the only possible addition will be to add a pilot. Box art. Three sprues of plastic. Instructions, clear sprue, PE, masks and decals. Stuart
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