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  1. Hi All, My latest completion is Eduard's Spitfire F Mk.VIII, completed as JF364 of 32 Sqn RAF, based at Foggia, Italy, early 1944. Here's a photo of the aircraft: The aircraft is painted in the High Altitude scheme of Medium Sea Grey over Azure Blue, which I think is rather spiffing. The aircraft also has the unusual extended wingtips which equipped some of this mark. The kit was completed OOB, which as it was a Profipack edition was quite comprehensive. Here's the WIP if anyone is interested: And here's the photos: Here's a final shot with a couple of stablemates from the ever-growing 1:48 Spit collection: This has been a thoroughly enjoyable build, and it's nice to have this attractive scheme added to the collection! Thanks to all those who have offered kind words along the way - it has been much appreciated! Thanks for looking, Roger
  2. Morning All, As Mr Mojo has been somewhat capricious of late, I rather fancied a little indulgence. Although I've been increasingly drawn to gentlemans' scale, I do still have a few 1:48 kits in my modest stash. So, what could be more indulgent than an Eduard Spitfire - Profipack indeed!! I have built a few of these, so the build is a well-trodden path, although this is a rather unusual version of the iconic aircraft. Here's the box art: What immediately jumps out is those pointy wingtips - that's not normal! I've been hankering after this lovely 'high altitude' colour scheme for a while, so there is no contest in the choice of scheme: This is an aircraft of 32 Sqn RAF, based in Foggia, Italy in early 1944. Here's a photo of JF364: I have seen this scheme completed with a red spinner, which I think will be a nice cherry on top of this most aesthetically pleasing scheme (which more than compensates for the weirdy-beardy wingtips, to my mind). Here's the sprue shots: Eduard's usual exquisite decals: So, off we trot for a bit of Eduard fun! Thanks for looking, Roger
  3. I had big plans to enter quite a few GB’s this year, but installing a new kitchen over the last couple of months has seriously hampered my model making. The kitchen is finally finished (ish) now so I can start getting some decent bench time in again. My entry will be the Eduard Hellcat Mk.I. I will be making the box art version from 800 Sqn FAA, HMS Emperor, June 1944. This is a dual combo profipack so I have 2 of everything. All looks very nice. Few variations on the build as you can make a Mk.I or Mk.II. I like the look of the coloured PE especially, should look great in the cockpit. I'm hoping to make a start this weekend, fingers crossed. George
  4. Hello, Here's another project of mine. 3 american aircrafts including 1 and a half under british management. Both are early Mustangs with différents armament and of course different wing. 1 MTO, 1 ETO and the last from CBI There's an Accurate min and 2 ICM, serioulsly they're almost identical. The first to be finished, I guess will be the MTO one a P-51A from an US Sqdn on loan to an brit squadron. The colours will be ... Let's say, unusual. One of my favourite game , you both should know the kind of remark "are you sure about the colours ???" I modify the camera rack for 2 of thede Mustang, because, you receive this... And you must have that... So, I cut the brackets, throw away the original support, add an armour plate ( from her cousins ) slightly modified. Add wiring to the camera, That seem promising, there's also lots of sanding but the ICM are worst. I keep on going, modifying the wings according to the 3 different type of early mustang is funny. Thank for watching. Corsaircorp
  5. F-35B Lightning II Upgrades (for Tamiya) 1:48 Eduard Brassin & Löök Tamiya have released a range of F-35 kits in 1:48, and as usual, their models are highly detailed and go together well. You probably already know what I’m going to say next, but I’ll say it anyway. You can always improve on the limitations of injection moulded styrene, so if you’re in the mood for some extra detail, read on. Eduard have released a range of sets that you can choose your focus from, using whichever matches your needs, budget or skill-set. The Brassin resin sets arrive in deep cardboard boxes, with the resin parts safely cocooned in bags, sheets of foam top and bottom, plus the instructions folded around acting as extra padding. F-35B Lift Fan (648995) This set consists of just two parts in 3D-printed resin that are a direct replacement for kit part V24, adding extra depth to the fan in two layers rather than one, which will be visible under the stators moulded into the upper fuselage half. The surround is painted a metallic shade, while the blades are painted white. The parts are printed diagonally for best fidelity, and are removed from their bases by separating them from the tendril-like supports and flatting the remaining blemishes as required. Cockpit (6481000) Consisting of fifteen 3D-printed parts, some of which are substantial, plus a fret of Photo-Etch (PE) that is nickel-plated and pre-painted, and a small decal sheet, this set replaces the kit cockpit with incredible detail. The build begins with the ejection seat, which is constructed from nine resin parts, three PE parts, plus a full set of PE belts that are draped over the cushions in a total of eleven stages that also includes some fine wire from your own supplies around the rear of the seat. A set of profiles show the painting and decaling of this intricate assembly that will far outstrip the kit seat once installed. The cockpit has comparatively few parts, but the detail is similarly impressive, with equipment in the rear linked by realistic-looking wiring, and sleek side consoles. The tub is almost complete out of the box, and has a set of rudder pedals installed in the foot wells, along with some well-described detail painting, and three controls that include a HOTAS pair of sticks. The expansive wide-screen Multi-Function Device (MFD) spans almost the full width of the cockpit in front of the pilot, with a centre console below and two side panels incorporated in the part, plus a choice of illuminated or switched off panel decals, and detailed painting instructions in a scrap diagram nearby. The last major resin part is the canopy frame, which is printed with lightening holes, handles and subtle riveting, some of it in places that would be impossible using anything other than 3D printing. A tongue at the front of the part slots into a recess in the cockpit tub, and a pair of PE actuators are attached to pivots under the frame, sliding into the kit slots on either side of the cockpit sill. Löök Cockpit Set (644259) If you don’t want to go the “whole hog” with a cockpit like the one above, the Löök set should fit the bill as a quick and easy improvement. It consists of a 3D printed resin instrument panel that is also pre-printed with instrument and control details, which replaces the kit panel part number W26 within the coaming. The PE fret includes a full set of crew seatbelts, plus a pull-handle that gets the pilot out of his incredibly expensive aircraft when things become untenable. The kit part should be cut flush with the seat surface, and a small hole drilled between the cut-out in the cushion to give the new PE part a recess for added grip. Conclusion This has been one of those sets that has caused an increase in my stash again. I picked up the kit because I just couldn’t resist the detail in the sets we’ve had in for review. Extremely highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  6. L-39 Albatros ProfiPACK (7044) 1:72 Eduard The L-39 is a fast jet trainer that was designed and manufactured in Czechoslovakia (as was) as a direct replacement for the earlier L-29 Delfin. It has been a success in its roles, and has received several upgrades that have resulted in new designations, and since the dismantling of the Soviet Union, some have found their way into private hands throughout the west, and they are often seen at airshows. It first flew in 1971, and was hoped to become the standard trainer across the Union, and following numerous upgrades by 1977 the ZA variant was in-service, fitted with a cannon and four hard-points for mounting various weapons in the Light Attack role. With the Soviet Union gone, the orders began to dry up, and an updated L-159 was produced in partnership with Rockwell, using more modern avionics. More recently, an L-39NG has begun development to begin deliveries of a thoroughly modern ‘Next Generation’ of Albatros, which will be easily identified as it no-longer has the tip-tanks that were typical of its predecessor. The Kit This is a re-release of a kit that Eduard tooled in 2002, with new parts added over the years, and presented now in a ProfiPACK boxing that increases its detail. The kit arrives in a gold-themed top-opening box, and inside are two sprues of blue-grey styrene, a clear sprue, two frets of Photo-Etch (PE), one of which is nickel-plated and pre-painted, a slip of clear acetate with outlines of the HUD glass printed in black, a sheet of kabuki-style pre-cut masking material, two decal sheets in their own re-sealable bag, and the instruction booklet that is printed in colour on glossy paper, with profiles of the six decal options on the rear pages. Detail is good for the era on the moulds, and the additional PE parts are of course up to Eduard’s modern standards, giving the model a strong boost. Construction begins with deciding on how to assemble the twin cockpits, making a choice between two sets of coloured PE instrument panels, sub-panels for different decal options, or leaving the PE on the sheet and applying decals over the raised details of the styrene panels, which must be flatted off if you’re using the PE panels. The same choice is applicable to the side consoles that are moulded into the cockpit tub, using one of two types of PE, or applying decals over the raised details, as before. The panels and rudder pedals are installed to the front of each cockpit position, with a large angular spacer between the two stations, adding control columns with separate levers for each pilot, and choosing which of three HUD and coaming assemblies is applicable to your decal option. One has no HUD at all, while another has some of the HUD structure removed and replaced by PE details. The rest have a vertical box removed, and a PE HUD folded up, with twin film sheets applied to the frame, which could be done with clear varnish to retain the clarity of the acetate. A scrap diagrams shows the location of the HUD from the side, as it overhangs the coaming slightly to the rear. Before the fuselage can be closed, the tapering frame between the two seats is removed and smoothed off, and if you wish to replace the quilting on the cockpit sidewalls, there are new parts on the PE fret, installing a bulkhead at the rear, and an oval bulkhead that has a representation of the engine front moulded into it. A little bunny cartoon pops up to remind you to add some nose weight, but doesn’t tell you how much. More is generally better within reason, but you can always tape the main parts of the model together to make an informed guess. The crew ejection seats are made identically, building the shell around the cushions and headbox, then applying the PE belts and pull-handle that actuates the ejection, fitting a two-part tangle of straps to the top and left of the headbox of each one before gluing them in either fore and aft of the rear coaming, which has another choice of equipment on its top side. PE cockpit sills are glued to the sides of the cut-outs, adding lugs to each one that holds down the canopy when it closes. The fuselage has a pair of intakes either side of the spine, which are extended by the curved trunks and splitter plates, taking care to paint the interior before gluing them to the spaces on the sides. The elevators are each single parts, and slot into holes in the sides of the tail, cutting a small fairing off the tip of the fin at its trailing edge, which is marked in red. A few PE antennae are drilled and inserted into the top of the fuselage, but the parts are best left until after main painting, drilling the holes out to locate them later. Both upper and lower wing surfaces are moulded as full-span parts, and are joined after drilling out holes for some of the decal options, inserting tip-lights into the fairings once the glue is cured. The wings are mated under the fuselage, adding a few PE appliqué panels to the belly, making up a pair of two-part drop tanks for some markings options, which attach under the wings on pylons that have PE details and lugs fitted between them and the tanks. The main gear struts are inserted into their bays, sliding wheels over the axle, and fitting a captive bay door to the outer face of the strut. The nose gear leg has a yoke moulded-in, and the wheel is flex-fitted into position, adding a brake hose from the PE sheet, and another small PE part to a tiny cut you must make in the side of the leg. A PE antenna with base is mounted behind the nose gear bay, and each wing leading-edge has a pitot probe slotted into a hole, then there is a profusion of antenna around the nose and tail areas, which depends on your chosen decal option, so choose early and wisely. The canopy is provided in four sections, and both openers have a grab-handle on the inside, plus a handle on the outside, with a rear-view mirror on one frame, and a small instrument on the frame of the windscreen. The windscreen and the cockpit divider are glued in place around the cockpit opening, and you have a choice of posing the canopies opened to the side using a PE jack that fits in the centre divider, or in the closed position using the single canopy part that makes that task extremely simple. The pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy exterior, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Markings There are six decal options on the sheets, which are split between national and unit markings on one, and the many stencils and instrument panel decals on the other. The stencil locations are shown on a separate page of profiles to make the process clear and relatively simple, also avoiding cluttering up the decal option profiles. From the box you can build one of the following: L-39CM, S/n.915254, 2 Fighter Sqn., 81 Wing, Slovak Air Force, Sliač AFB, Slovakia, 2022 L-39C, Pardubice, Czech Republic, 2023 L-39C, Russia Naval Air Force, 859 TsBP, Yeysk Base, Russia, 2018 L-39C, S/n.533229, Ukrainian Air Force, No.229 brTA, Kulbakino Air Base, Nikolaev, Ukraine, 2015 L-39C, Kazakhstan Air Force, Taldykorgan Air Base, Kazakhstan, 2012 L-39C, S/n.131904, Czech Jet Team, Plzeň-Líně Airport, Czech Republic, 2004-2014 The decals are printed using a digital process and have good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut loosely around the printed areas. This means that the carrier film on their decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier film free, making the completed decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the carrier film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and saves a good quantity of precious modelling time into the bargain. Conclusion A substantial detail upgrade of a good kit in this scale that has interesting decal options from various nations over a lengthy period. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. After the P-51D/K Eduard is to release 1/48th North American P-51B/C Mustang kits Source: https://www.eduard.com/out/media/InfoEduard/archive/2022/info-eduard-2022-10-special.pdf V.P.
  8. B-26B Marauder Updates (for ICM) 1:48 Eduard ICM brought their newly tooled 1:48 B-26B Marauder to market just a few months ago, and it’s a huge improvement on the old Monogram kit, offering most of the interior detail from the box, although by necessity it is simplified to keep the costs palatable, and to comply with the technical limits of injection-moulded styrene. You can always improve styrene with aftermarket sets though, and Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Cockpit & Nose Interior (491454) Two frets are included, one nickel-plated and pre-painted, the other larger, and in bare brass. A complete set of new layered instrument panels, centre-console, throttle quadrant and sidewalls, and improvements to the side consoles with added levers for the cockpit that are in full colour, with a large skin for the floor; a brand-new pair of seats for the front crew with rails to mount them on; a tunnel surround for the crew hatch in the floor behind the crew seats; a detail skin for the bulkhead between the crew and bombardier, which also has additional details around the edges; hand-grips on the doorway; and overhead console between the pilots that has raised parts added from PE; a windscreen wiper for the bombardier’s optically clear window in the nose; a ring and bead sight for the nose machine gun, plus a dump bag to one side and a length of ammunition that fits into the stowage box that attaches to the glazing nearby, which is also replaced by a PE part. Having built and painted the kit cockpit, this will be a huge upgrade, and I’m already thinking about how to retro-fit it to my kit as I type this. Zoom! Set (FE1454) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted parts that are used to improve on the main aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the structural elements such as the seats, floor and access tunnel. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48183) Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin, and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The kit instrument panel is covered in raised detail, but is let down by the decal that comes with it, which has thick white bezels around each instrument face. This set will require removal of the raised details, after which the new hyper-real panel can be glued into place, carrying out the same task with the centre console and throttle quadrant, plus several other instrument boxes around the cockpit sides, adding a new overhead console and gunsight, extending the detailing into the nose and walls of the cockpit. The PE sheet contains belts for the pilot, co-pilot, gunners and other crew, all etched in STEEL, making draping them over the seats a breeze. Again, it’s an impressive update to the detail of this kit, which whilst good will be much better with these upgrades Seatbelts STEEL (FE1455) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the crew belts, you also get a set of belts for the rest of the crew, most of whom have lap-belts because of their positions and seating type. Masks (EX1044) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get masks for the turrets, various smaller windows and hatches dotted around the fuselage and landing lights in the wing leading edges. Masks Tface (EX1045) Supplied on two sheets of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the inside of the glazing so that you can paint the model’s interior and give your kit that extra bit of realism. Having used these sets on my own models now, I can confirm that they are extremely accurate, and it's good practice to place the outer masks first to act as a guide for alignment of the inner masks. US National Insignia (EX1046) Masking off the main markings of models removes any pitfalls associated with using larger decals, such as thickness of the carrier film, unintended decal movement before setting, and the perennial scourge of decaling – silvering - where microscopic air bubbles become trapped under the carrier film, reflecting light and giving the completed decal a silvered look. Using masks, it’s possible to paint several colours in very thin layers with an airbrush, leading to a set of markings that are more harmonious with the overall paint finish, and later appear to have been sprayed on along with the main colours. It also makes weathering or chipping the markings as simple as it is with paint. This set is tailored for the ICM kit, and arrives in a flat-pack resealable package, backed by a thick piece of cardboard, and with a small instruction sheet held within along with a sheet of vinyl masks. Why vinyl rather than kabuki tape? Vinyl is more robust and requires more tension to deform it, lending the material to letters, digits and shapes that require precision of size and shape to look correct. The masks include parts for the national markings of the aircraft so you can paint the stars-and-bars on the model, which could be an introduction to using masks and an airbrush to create more realistic markings on future models. Positioning the masks should be straight-forward, but if you have placement issues you could place the positive masks as a guide, then lower the negative masks into position over them, weeding out the positive masks once you are happy with their location. Depending on what colours you are spraying, and the shades you are using, it may take multiple steps and some element of adding and removal of masks, which you can keep together by adding a separate piece of tape across the group of shapes to keep them aligned in between uses. It would also help keeping the groups apart from each other during use, so you don’t get the individual mask sets mixed up. A perfect opportunity to try something new with your modelling, helping to increase the realism of your work by removing the carrier film and associated issues from the equation, at least for the major markings. Conclusion Stand by to see some of these parts added to my ongoing build of the ICM kit here, which has been going a little bit slowly of late due to various reasons, but the upside is that I’m still able to put some of the details in there before the fuselage is closed. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. I-16 Type 10 ProfiPACK (8148) 1:48 Eduard The I-16 was a ground-breaking design that first flew in 1934, as it was both a monoplane, much of its structure was made from composite materials, and it benefited from having retractable landing gear. It was designed by the Polikarpov Design Bureau, and was also intended to have a totally enclosed cockpit, but Soviet pilots disliked being entirely enclosed within their aircraft, perhaps harking back to the days of open-topped biplanes, and all this was despite the freezing temperatures that they had to endure, even at zero feet. It was a small aircraft that led to some diminutive nicknames such as Burro (Donkey) or Rata (Rat), depending on where it was in service. Early variants saw action in the Spanish Civil War as well as in Chinese hands against the Japanese invaders, and by the time WWII came around they were one of the major fighters in service with the Soviet Air Force in terms of numbers. Flying against the German piloted Bf.109s of the Legion Condor during the Spanish conflict left the designers with the distinct impression that it was outclassed by larger, more modern designs, but production did not cease immediately thanks to the remaining development potential of the basic airframe. By the time the Type 10 reached production, it was fitted with four 12.7mm machine guns, two synchronised in the cowling, plus two more in the wings, firing outside the arc of the propeller. It was powered either by a Wright Cyclone R-1820 engine or an indigenous Shvetsov M-25B motor, and had a sliding canopy, which many pilots still discarded by preference to improve their situational awareness or whatever their excuses for ditching the relative comfort of a closed cockpit were. Subsequent variants improved the armament further, installing 20mm cannons for extra destructive power with the same designation just to confuse matters, and increasing the power and manufacturer of the engine, although the improvements there were evolutionary rather than revolutionary. By the middle of WWII the type was obsolete, and was retired in favour of more advanced and powerful designs. The Kit This is a re-release of the 2006 tooling of this little fighter, adding ProfiPACK goodies to the box that will help it keep up with our expectations. It arrives in a gold-themed top-opening box, and inside are four sprues of blue-grey styrene, a separately Ziploc bagged clear sprue, a fret of nickel-plated and pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE), a sheet of pre-cut kabuki-style masking material (not pictured), decal sheet, and the instruction booklet printed in colour on glossy paper, with colour profiles on the rear pages. Detail is good, but don’t expect tons of panel lines, as these aircraft were predominantly smooth surfaced, using an early iteration of composite materials, plywood impregnated with phenolic resin. Construction begins with a choice of whether to remove the cockpit door to install the PE replacement later in the build, the area for removal shown on the diagram in red. Much of the cockpit detail is applied to the fuselage side walls before the fuselage is closed, adding a choice of styrene or PE versions of the various pieces of equipment, plus twin and single exhausts protruding through the cowling from inside, gluing them according to lines shown in blue on the diagrams. Once the sidewalls are completed and painted, the fuselage halves can be mated, as the remainder of the cockpit is inserted from below before the wings are added. The cockpit floor has the two-part seat, control column and rudder pedals fitted, adding PE straps to the pedals, and four-part PE seatbelts draped over the sides. The completed floor insert is slotted into the fuselage from below, as is the instrument panel, which can either be made from the styrene panel with a decal and some PE levers, or by using a blank panel with two layers of pre-painted PE, the same PE levers, and a small laminated panel in the centre. It is slid up into position from below, just in front of the cockpit floor. The lower wings are full-span and have the main gear bays moulded-in, gluing the separate upper wings over the top, and lowering the fuselage down into the gap between them, first inserting two extra exhaust stubs through from the inside. A pair of machine guns are slotted into the wing leading-edges, and a pitot probe is mounted in the starboard wing around mid-span. The tail is created from two elevators that slot into the sides of the moulded-in fin, adding a rudder and tail-cone to the rear, and a tail-skid underneath, which all sit perpendicular to each other, as per the accompanying diagram. The engine is provided as an insert that has the fronts of the radial cylinders moulded-into it, to which a washer is added in front, supporting the PE cooling shutters. These are first detailed with a ball-pen, pushing the half-thickness lines indicated to form the strengthening ribs, then you can choose to have the shutters closed, or rotated around to allow air into the engine compartment to cool an over-stressed motor during or after a strenuous dogfight, or an urgent climb to altitude. The engine is offered up to the front cowling from behind, trapping an axle in the centre that the prop sits on later. Before the assembly is glued into the front of the fuselage, another two exhausts are slipped through apertures from within, and two fairings for the nose-mounted ShKAS machine guns are applied to recesses in the top cowlings. The main gear legs are built from a triangular strut with axle, plus a bracing strut that plug into sockets in the bay, adding a PE appliqué panel to the bay side, and the main wheel to the axle. A captive bay door is glued to the leg, and another is fitted to the retraction jack, with a third parallel to the ground at the base of the main bay door. Another small door is fixed to the base of one of the legs at the rear of the bay, and scrap diagrams show how the completed gear assembly should look, and give you the option of adding a length of 0.1mm wire to the centre of the wheel hub, providing a very simple method of retracting the landing gear. A clear gun-sight is glued to the deck in front of the cockpit with a ring sight mounted in front, covering it over with the windscreen, the location for which is shown in blue. If you have cut the access door out, the replacement PE part should be formed to match the shape of the fuselage, and is shown from the front to assist with its placement. The two-bladed prop has a stubby spinner fixed to the front, and is inserted on the axle in the front of the fuselage, applying a pair of blisters and a tube to the cowling. Markings There are four decal options included on the sheet, all with very different schemes to widen appeal. From the box you can build one of the following: Leningrad, Soviet Union, 1941 Genmjr. Ivan A Lakeev, 46 IAP, Vasilkov, Soviet Union, 1941 Soviet Union, Summer 1941 Maj. Mikhail N Yakushin, The Red Five Aerobatic Group, Soviet Union 1939 The decals are printed using a digital process and have good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut loosely around the printed areas. This means that the carrier film on their decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier film free, making the completed decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the carrier film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and saves a good quantity of precious modelling time into the bargain. Canopy and wheel masks are supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape (not pictured), allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Two diagrams at the end of the instructions show where each of the masks should fit, and there are also some additional strips of masking material that can be used to help you with painting. Conclusion Whilst it isn’t Eduard’s newest tooling, the lack of panel lines on the model is correct for its construction method, and the detail that is included in this boxing should result in a creditable replica with the application of some modelling skills. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  10. I need to find some motivation to continue work on my F-84, but still have plenty of time for that. So I figured I’ll start my thread here in the meantime. I have plenty of planned subjects to choose from, including a couple for my yet to be built Wisconsin Aces collection, but I’m going to do a 361st bird for this GB. Specifically, Jasper Joker II flown by Lt. Donald Vulgamore. I’ll be building my first Eduard kit and using Aeromaster decals. And of course using an excellent Schiffer Military History book for reference.
  11. I-16 Type 10 SPACE (3DL48157 for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard As I write this, I’ve just finished the review of this re-released Eduard kit, which you’ll be able to read here by the time I’ve finished. It’s a new boxing of a 2006 tooling, and there are some Photo-Etch (PE) parts included. If you’re a lover of detail however, here is the new SPACE set from Eduard to upgrade your model further. Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The PE sheet includes a set of four-point seatbelts, plus a ring-and-bead sight to install in front of the glazed gunsight. The 3D printed sheet contains a gloriously detailed instrument panel to apply over the blank backing with glossy dial faces, and a space in the centre for a sub-panel. Two additional decals are included for the starboard cockpit side wall, one fitting directly against the fuselage, the other applied to a kit part that glues to the side wall. Conclusion Beautiful detail that is effortless to apply to your model, of a standard that very few modellers could otherwise achieve. I’m hooked on these SPACE sets for their panels and seatbelts, using them whenever I get the opportunity. Extremely highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  12. Hi All, My contribution will be one of the first ships to open fire on D-Day, still able to be visited, one of the few elements of Britain's maritime history to be saved from the breakers yard, - HMS Belfast. In truth I'm also attempting to build USS Franklin as well over in a different group build but why not set myself a challenge right, A few shots of the ship herself in all her glory, personally i think she looked her best in her WW2 days, Thanks to some special dispensation I'll likely be painting her in this final scheme that she wore during the war, i might yet change my mind and go for her D-day camo but i don't have all the paints and i honestly don't know if i can face masking it all off sorry, I'll get some shots up of the kit itself and the etch parts up later, Cheerio, Sam
  13. When Italy joined NATO in 1949 she was still flying sleek and shiny Spitfires. As part of my "Spitfires-by-the-Seas" project, in which I am building a pair of Spitfires in the markings of countries bordering five seas, I will build an Italian Mk IXc as part of my "Ionian Sea" pair for this GB.
  14. Eduard leaflet for May: http://www.eduard.com/store/out/media/distributors/leaflet/leaflet2016-05.pdf change digit in link for older issues
  15. Hi, Although there are many P-51D's that I'd like to build, I'm going to go with the new Eduard P-51B. One reason is that I find it fascinating that the 8th AF succeeded in putting escort fighters over Berlin in daylight in March 1944. The Bullseye sheet has some of these. I'm going to go with B6-Y. 😉 Cheers, Stefan.
  16. Its been sometime since i posted here . I seen this Hind E helicopter , Looks like a great OTB. Please enjoy Rick
  17. I decided to double down with a second build. It will be another 1/48 Eduard kit, this time being a fillet-less D-5 version. I’ve had this kit in the stash for a couple years with the intent of doing Richard Peterson’s “Hurry Home Honey” because I really really like the dark green over NMF scheme the 357th FG had on its early Ds. While researching the plane the other day on the LittleFriendsUK site, I came across a different plane from the same squadron with a pilot from my home state of Wisconsin. Always one to want to learn about the pilots from my state, I soon found out the pilot, Col Irwin Dregne, was an ace and was the last CO of the Yoxford Boys. His plane carried the same camo as Peterson’s and since Bullseye Decals’ excellent Yoxford Boy series has markings for it, I decided I’m going to build Dregne’s plane (just had to purchase the decals since it was on a separate sheet from HHH). It carries two names: Bobby Jeanne for his wife and daughter, and then Ah-Fung-Goo II which apparently was a name chosen by Dregne’s crew chief.
  18. I am planning on building Tamiya`s Spitfire Vb kit in 1/48th scale as a artillery spotter of the US Navy`s VOS-7. This unit comprised of US Pilots who had flown Seagulls and Kingfisher floatplanes, but these were considered too vulnerable for the assault on Normandy, so converted to Spitfires and flew out of Lee-On-Solent. I plan on building 4Q which seems to have more invasion stripes than camouflage. On the Fundekals sheet 4Q has full span wings whereas the new Eduard Spitfire Vb Overlord kit has the same aircraft with clipped wings, As the squadron in its role worked at quite low level. I am tempted to go with clipped wings. What are others thoughts? This kit was purchased from Hannants secondhand and previous owner had removed most of the sprues for some reason. The kit looks complete. More images when i have figured out how to post them.... Grahame
  19. In the Czech Modelforum it's mentioned that after the 1/48th MiG-21, Spitfire and Bf.109 families, Eduard has as long term project the North American P-51 Mustang in the same scale. Wait and see. Source: http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=68170&start=5865 V.P.
  20. Hello! Something from Saddam's era. 💣 OOB kit with no changes at all. This kit was started like years ago and I kept it in some box until last summer and decide to finish it whenever I have some time. Camouflage is based on only one available photo from the internet and camouflage pattern from R.V. Aircraft so it's a mixture of both worlds to get close to real one. Not quite sure if there were roundels on upper surfaces but it looked good to me so I applied them. On some Bis/MF versions, there were 2 roundels on top surfaces, some had only one, there was not a standard when it comes to painting and marking all the aircrafts. Enjoy the pictures! 😉
  21. Eduard is to rebox in June 2020 the hasegawa 1/72nd Martin B-26 Marauder kit - ref. Source: http://www.kitreviewsonline.de/eduard-pressekonferenz-in-nuernberg/ V.P.
  22. Bf.109G-10 WNF/Diana ProfiPACK (82161) 1:48 Eduard There must have been billions of words written on the Bf.109 over the years, which was the mainstay of the Luftwaffe's fighter arm, despite having been supposedly superseded by the Fw.190 and others during its service life. It kept coming back to prominence due partly to it being a trusted design, the manufacturer's sway with the RLM, and the type's ability to be adapted as technology advanced. The G or Gustav as it was known was one of the later variants, and is widely regarded as one of the more successful variants, with improved armament that give some variants a distinctive pair of blisters in front of the windscreen, plus mounting points for the 210mm rocket tubes used to disrupt the bomber streams in long range attacks using timed detonation. The other minor changes were targeted at defensive means, removing the mounting points and hardware for long-range tanks etc. The G-10 was fitted with the new DB605D-2 engine that was later seen on the K, and became the de facto standard Gustav once introduced, often using unfinished G-14s as the starting point, which has confused some researchers in the past. It was fitted with the sleek Erla-Haube canopy and a deeper oil cooler under the nose that sets it apart from previous issues along with some small blisters just forward and below the exhaust stacks. It also had a swept-forward installation of the radio antenna under the wing leading edge, all of which you can see on the box art, although whether it will survive the attack by the Russkis on the box art is a matter for conjecture. The Kit This boxing depicts airframes that were manufactured at the Wiener Neustädter Flugzeugwerke (WNF) and in the underground ‘Diana’ factory that was built in a disused railway tunnel in Moravia, and as you can imagine, it shares some sprues with other Gustav boxings from Eduard. With this being a ProfiPACK issue, it arrives in the gold-themed box, with four sprues of grey styrene, a clear sprue, a fret of pre-painted nickel-plated Photo-Etch (PE), a sheet of yellow kabuki-style masking material (not pictured), two decal sheets separated into markings and stencils, plus of course the instruction booklet printed in colour on glossy paper. Detail is on a par with any of Eduard's other 109 offerings, including fine surface detail, cockpit and gear bays that are up to a high standard, and accessories that will allow the modeller to personalise their model in line with their chosen decal option. Construction begins in the cockpit, with PE and styrene parts installed into the combined floor and rear bulkhead, plus a clear fuel feeder pipe so you can mask the vision port and paint the rest, tinting the clear section a suitable fuel colour. This was a simple way for the pilot to quickly check whether his engine was sucking vapours, or was faltering for some other reason. PE seatbelts are included, and a choice of PE or styrene rudder pedals, depending on which you prefer. The instrument panel is laminated from layers of pre-painted PE, with glossy, slightly domed dials already present on the rearmost layers. The sidewalls too are decorated with more painted PE parts, after which you can close the fuselage unless have some additional aftermarket to apply. The backplate for the spinner and exhaust stubs are installed with a choice of shrouded or un-shrouded exhausts by using different parts. The top cowling with separate gun trough inserts is glued into place along with the intake for the engine's supercharger, a PE hinge section on the top centre of the cowling, gun barrel muzzles, and optional PE flash-hiders for the exhausts. The G-10 had an extended wooden fin, which is a separate insert, breaking at a convenient panel line and adding the rudder behind it. The elevator fins are each two parts and fit using pins, with separate elevators and the tail-wheel on a short strut that locates in a depression under the fuselage. The wing undersides are full-span, adding main gear sidewalls and drilling out two 0.5mm holes for the central rack if you intend to use it. The upper wings have a long blister from the leading edge toward the rear to accommodate the wider wheels, and the uppers glue over the lower, incorporating the single-thickness tips and a pitot-probe in the port wingtip. Under one wingtip a clear part is inserted into a recess and masked to represent a clear insulator for an underwing antenna that will be installed later. Masks are included for this and for the wingtip lights moulded into the wings, and a jig is supplied to help you scribe a pair of small rectangular panel lines in front of the cockpit opening. With the wings mated to the fuselage, separate leading-edge slats (gravity deployed when stopped) are fitted that can be posed retracted for flight by removing the short supports from inside the slats. The ailerons slide into the trailing-edge of the wing on two slots, so can be deflected if you wish, moving on to the radiator bays, which have PE skins front and back, as does the chin-scoop under the nose. The radiator fairings and two-layer combined flaps/cooling flaps are added, a scrap diagram showing the correct positioning of the flaps when they are deployed. The main gear is the same narrow-track struts from earlier models, with separate fatter tyres and hubs, plus captive bay doors, socketing into the bay using strong parts, and with hub masks included for easy painting of the demarcation. You have a choice of styrene or PE aerial for the underwing antenna that is rooted in the clear isolator, adding horn balances to the undersides of the ailerons, and a PE appliqué panel under the belly behind the wing’s trailing edge. As the build progresses, the clear gunsight is added after being partially painted, and if you add a little translucent green/blue to the edge to simulate the thickness of the glass, it will improve the look of the finished part. The windscreen has a couple of small PE parts added to it before you can glue it to the front of the squared-off cockpit opening, and the sleek Erla-Haube canopy has a windowed head armour part that will need masking from the enclosed sheet and painting before it is fitted. If you have treated yourself to a set of Tface masks that allow painting of both interior and exterior surfaces of the canopy, the additional interior detail parts added will gel nicely with this improvement. An optional stubby aerial fits to the top rear of the canopy for one decal option, and you have a choice of PE or styrene DF loop antennae further back down the spine. The canopy can be posed open by using the thin PE restraint that's included on the fret, which allows you to set the correct angle when open. The prop is a single part, which has the two-part spinner closed around it, after which you can either glue it in place, or leave it loose for travel and impromptu spinning if you prefer. Two types of two-part drop-tanks are supplied that attach on a four-prong mount under the centre of the fuselage, inserting a small PE aerial under the belly just behind the appliqué panel placed earlier. Markings There are four marking options included in the box, with variety of late war camouflage schemes that involves heavy use of mottle. The main sheet contains all the national, unit, and theatre markings, while the smaller sheet is full of stencils, which are detailed on a separate page to avoid cluttering each full page set of profiles. You get spinner decals for one option, so you're not left wondering how on earth you're going to do them. From the box you can build one of the following: Bf.109G-10/U4, II./JG52, Brno, Protektorat Böhmen und Mähren, April 1945 Bf.109G-10/U4, W.Nr.612769, 101. Vadászezred, Neubiberg Airfield, Germany, May 1945 Bf.109G-10/U4, W.Nr.611048, II./JG52 Neubiberg Airfield, Germany, May 1945 Bf.109G-10/U4, Jasta 5 der ROA, Nemecky Brod, Protektorat Böhmen und Mähren, April 1945 The decals are printed using a digital process and have good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut loosely around the printed areas. This means that the carrier film on their decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier film free, making the completed decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the carrier film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and saves a good quantity of precious modelling time into the bargain. Conclusion It’s an excellent kit, but you probably already know that. It comes with some quality details, and some unusual decal options that you may not have seen before – plus it’s a Gustav. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  23. Bf.108 Taifun Update Sets (for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Eduard’s Bf.108 Taifun kit was one of their earliest in 2002, and yet it is still good enough to see the inside of a new box occasionally, including 2024 as I type this. To coincide with the re-release under the classic desert-themed box art, Eduard have released a couple of upgrade sets that will increase the level of detail in the cockpit, which is often a weaker point of older kits. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1431) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the two sets of crew belts, you also get two pairs of lap belts for the rear bench seat to keep the passengers in position during flight. SPACE (3DL48166) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. This set contains a full set of belts for the two crew and lap belts for the rear-seat passengers as per the above belt-only set, but it also equips the instrument panel with a large curved new surface that is studded with realistic dials and is applied over the flattened original for the ultimate in detail. The angled console between the pilots is also covered with a choice of two styles of instruments, adding an extra part to the top of one option, and a raised switch to the bottom of both choices. Conclusion The addition of seatbelts brings the level of detail in an aircraft’s cockpit up immensely, and with the addition of the SPACE instrument panel and console, the detail is further enhanced beyond the level capable by most modellers. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  24. Gannet AS.1/AS.4 Upgrade Sets (for Airfix) 1:48 Eduard Airfix made a lot of British and Anglophile aviation modellers very happy when they released their complete modern tooling of the Fairey Gannet, a venerable and much-missed carrier-based Anti-Submarine Search and Strike aircraft from the deepest era of the Cold War. The 1:48 annals of modelling have been a bit short on available kits of this sea bird for the longest of times, but that’s one gap that has now been filled, and filled well. You can always improve detail on an injection-moulded model however. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Gannet AS.1 Upgrade Set (491424) Two frets are included, one nickel-plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. A complete set of new layered instrument panels, sidewalls, and consoles with added levers for all the cockpits and the extensive instrument panel for the main cabin are in full colour, with additional parts in bare brass that include new rudder pedals; a drop-down crew ladder that pops out of the fuselage by the nose gear bay; more detailed baffles for the interior of the bomb bay doors; bulkhead placards and other details in the bomb bay and in the nose gear bay. Gannet AS.4 Upgrade Set (491425) This set differs slightly from the one above in the layout of the cockpit equipment, with an early/late option on one panel. Gannet AS.1 SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48162) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin, and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. This set replaces all the instrument panels, dials and boxes with 3D printed decals throughout the cockpits, plus a full set of crew seatbelts for the two crew members, including comfort pads under the buckles. Gannet AS.4 SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48163) This set differs very slightly from the one above in the shape and size of a few boxes in the cockpits. Gannet AS.1/AS.4 Seatbelts STEEL (FE1426) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the two sets of crew belts, you also get comfort pads for under the buckles, as Gannets often undertook extremely long missions as part of their deployment. Gannet AS.1/AS.4 Masks (EX1916) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort, plus masks for both sides of the HUD and sundry smaller clear parts, including the landing lights. Gannet AS.1/AS.4 Masks Tface (EX1017) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the inside of the glazing so that you can paint the model’s interior and give your kit that extra bit of realism. Having used these sets on my own models now, I can confirm that they are extremely accurate, and it's good practice to place the outer masks first to act as a guide for alignment of the inner masks. Gannet AS.1/AS.4 National & Aircraft Markings (EX1018) Speaking personally, it’s long been a temptation to mask off the main markings of my aircraft models, removing any issues associated with using larger decals, such as thickness of the carrier film, unintended movement before setting, and the perennial scourge of decaling – silvering - where microscopic air bubbles become trapped under the carrier film, reflecting light and giving the completed decal a silvered look. Using masks, it’s possible to paint several colours in very thin layers with an airbrush, leading to a set of markings that are more harmonious with the overall paint finish, and later appear to have been sprayed on along with the main colours. It also makes weathering the markings as simple as it is with paint. This set is tailored for the Airfix kit, and arrives in a flat-pack resealable package, backed by a thick piece of cardboard, and with a small instruction sheet held within along with a sheet of vinyl masks. Why vinyl rather than kabuki tape? Vinyl is more robust and requires more tension to deform it, lending themselves to letters, digits and shapes that require precision of size and angles to look correct. The masks include parts for the national markings, the aircraft fuselage codes, their underwing serials and the two walkways down the wingroots where the crew exit and enter. From the sheet you can paint the markings of one of the three aircraft depicted on the kit’s decal markings: Kit Scheme A - Fairey Gannet AS.4 XA460, No.849 Naval Air Squadron, HQ Training Flight, Royal Naval Air Station Culdrose, circa 1959 Kit Scheme B - Fairey Gannet AS.4 XA418, No.815 Naval Air Squadron, HMS Ark Royal, 1958 Kit Scheme C - Fairey Gannet AS.1 XA335, No.847 Naval Air Squadron, RAF Nicosia, Cyprus, 1957 Positioning the masks should be straight-forward, but if you have placement issues you could place the positive masks as a guide, then lower the negative masks into position over them, weeding out the positive masks once you are happy with their location. The roundels will require three steps and some element of adding and removal of masks, which you can keep together by adding a separate piece of tape across the group of circles to keep them aligned in between uses. It would also help keeping the groups apart from each other during use, so you don’t get the individual mask sets mixed up. A perfect opportunity to try something new with your modelling, helping to increase the realism of your work by removing the carrier film and associated issues from the equation, at least for the major markings. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  25. In August 2020, Eduard is to release in August 2020 - just in time for the 80th Anniversary of the BoB - a new tool 1/48th Supermarine Spitfire Mk.I limited kit - ref. Source: https://www.eduard.com/out/media/InfoEduard/archive/2020/info-eduard-2020-01.pdf V.P.
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