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Eduard leaflet for May: http://www.eduard.com/store/out/media/distributors/leaflet/leaflet2016-05.pdf change digit in link for older issues

Hello, Here's another project of mine. 3 american aircrafts including 1 and a half under british management. Both are early Mustangs with différents armament and of course different wing. 1 MTO, 1 ETO and the last from CBI There's an Accurate min and 2 ICM, serioulsly they're almost identical. The first to be finished, I guess will be the MTO one a P-51A from an US Sqdn on loan to an brit squadron. The colours will be ... Let's say, unusual. One of my favourite game , you both should know the kind of remark "are you sure about the colours ???" I modify the camera rack for 2 of thede Mustang, because, you receive this... And you must have that... So, I cut the brackets, throw away the original support, add an armour plate ( from her cousins ) slightly modified. Add wiring to the camera, That seem promising, there's also lots of sanding but the ICM are worst. I keep on going, modifying the wings according to the 3 different type of early mustang is funny. Thank for watching. Corsaircorp

So here is (potentially) the start of part one of a dual/joint/two at a time build. Jury is still out in my head if to try two at a time having only completed two builds in 1/350 in the past 3 years especially as I still have a lot to learn and want them to turn out well. Also whether to do a joint thread or separate ones? As a kid I built 1/600 battleships, if it didn’t have big guns I wasn’t interested. A few years back I dabbled in 1/400 and built battleships, (you may see a pattern), now that I’m rather hooked on the hobby again I’ve started by building you’ve guessed it – battleships, specifically Zvezda’s Dreadnought and Hobbyboss’s Dunkerque (95% complete). As I looked at my stash of 12 and counting with a couple of those started I realised bar a modern Russian destroyer I needed to change it up. I settled on Aircraft Carriers, specifically 3, the bank said I could have 2 - fair enough I said. I wanted something unusual looking and Graf Zeppelin is certainly that. I’d actually discounted her as the aftermarket options aren’t great, Mk.1 do a set three times the cost of the kit which I personally think is too much. Eduard do a set in 4 prts, 2 prts of which are now discontinued. I contacted them about this and another set for Roma they have done similar with and they very bluntly said they wouldn’t bring it back into production even if demand went up which seems odd but that’s up to them. So I have coming on monday trumpeters kit of Graf Zeppelin in 1/350 with half of the eduard sets available, I did track down all four parts but when I compared the kit parts with those offered by eduard I found multiple areas when eduard merely replaced what was already included in the kit with little or no marked difference. I’ve also an extra set of six ME 109’s and Stukas. I plan to do my best with it, maybe scratch build a few bits, it won’t be jaw dropping in terms of PE but I think there is enough to lift the base model up a level or two. Part of the thing with Graf Zeppelin is of course she was never finished (about 95%) and in the process of not being finished she was changed several times. A brief history can be found on many a website, likely including this one on other builds but essentially, she had an Atlantic bow added post launch, was put on hold a couple times, had bulges added as well as changes to her super structure, AA armament, Aircraft complement and make up etc. You get the idea, the brilliant thing is it means you can’t really go wrong and where the line is drawn is any ones guess. As you’ll see from the following photos, Insert obligatory pictures (all from scale mates and Wikipedia) I plan to make minor changes to the super structure and funnel cap as I think trumpeter got it very very very wrong. I’ve no idea on paint schemes she’d likely have adopted, the Germans didn’t seem to do much up to early 42 which is potentially when she could have entered service had she not be placed on hold repeatedly. There is this picture on Scalemates that are supposedly GZ but to me I'm not convinced, the step/angle in the bow is gone, the tip of the bow is different as is the rake, as are the missing casemates (which is possible) but the bulge comes a lot further forward and the superstructure is stepped out to one side which would be massive work to undertake during the brief times she was actually worked on post 1940, I wondered if these are perhaps pictures of Weser but I don't think she got that far in construction? Now as for the second ship I may concurrently build – I’ll say nothing partially not to jinx it, Im told it'll be here in short order but time will tell. I'll be initially working to complete to a point of airbushing as the bank balance has taken a hit and so I can’t invest in an Airbrush right now. So any areas hairy stickable I’ll look to do and other areas be left ready for airbrushing later in the build. I'm not sure how easy to do as sub assemblies carriers are - but I'll guess I will fid out. Dunkerque has taken 10 months and isn’t huge but is nearly there so I doubt this will be a quick build initially but if you’d like to follow on and have made it through my inane ramblings I’d be glad of any input and suggestions as to: - paint schemes - paint sequencing given my Airbrish plan/delay - and modifications that may make her stand out. Photo's of the kit and PE to follow when they arrive, Thanks for bearing with me Sam

A6M3 Zero Type 32 ProfiPACK (82213) 1:48 Eduard The Zero was the direct successor to the diminutive A5M Claud from the same company, Mitsubishi, and came into service with the Japanese Navy in 1940, where it was extremely well received. It was a fast, highly manoeuvrable aircraft with powerful armament for the time, and it had good fuel economy due to the light-weight construction that would contribute to its downfall later in the war. The engineers used an extremely light duralumin variant, and lightened everything they could to shave weight from the airframe, including perforating the pilot’s seat, with no armour or self-sealing fuel tanks to protect the pilot or aircraft from incoming fire. While the Zero was the fastest kid on the block this wasn’t such an issue, but as the Allies improved their aircraft, they began to fall into their sights more frequently with the inevitable outcome that a great many experienced Japanese aviators were shot down and killed, leaving inexperienced novices to fall prey to the by-then experienced Allied flyers. One such battle was referred to the Marianas Turkey Shoot due to the horrible losses suffered by the Japanese at the hands of the American aviators. The Type 32 ran an improved version of the Sakai engine that used a 2-stage compressor to increase power, but its increased weight required the shortening of the fuselage, the complete redesign of the cowling and forward fuselage, and shortening of the wings, which took on a squarer profile. The speed was increased, but the more thirsty engine reduced the range, which gave them a short career in carrier-borne operations, after which they were withdrawn to provide point-defence for airfields or other strategically important areas. Toward the end of the war there were further improvements made to the type, but many were converted to fly as Kamikaze aircraft, to hurl themselves in an act of futility against the advancing US forces in an attempt to sink their carriers and battleships. Its most infamous use was as the fighters and fleet patrol aircraft during the Pearl Harbour raid that drew America into WWII on 7th December 1941, with a fleet of Type 21s that are otherwise known as the A6M2b taking off first from their carriers due to their relatively short take-off requirements. The rest as they say, is history. The Kit This is a partial re-tooling of the stunning new issue from Eduard, and it has been given the same duty of care that they lavished on the previous boxing of the Pearl Harbour era Zero, their earlier Bf.109G, the Spitfire and Mustang kits, making a highly-detailed, totally modern model kit that has blown many of the ageing competition out of the water in this scale. It arrives in a well-stocked top-opening box with a Zero engaging with a P-38 Lightning on the cover, and some profiles of the decal options on the side. Inside are four sprues in two resealable bags, a clear sprue in a Ziploc bag, a pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE) sheet in another Ziploc bag, a sheet of kabuki tape masks for the external glazing (not pictured) in yet another bag, three decal sheets and a rather thick instruction booklet with five pages of profiles for the marking options and one for the stencils. If you’ve been following this kit you’ll know that it has exceptional detail on the sprues, and it goes together like their recent Wildcat kit, and is a joy to build – I really will have to get around to finishing my earlier Tora Tora boxing. The full exterior skin is riveted and has engraved panel lines, including some lapped panels where appropriate, all done with incredible fidelity and finesse. The decals are also similarly well done, and the instructions are up to Eduard’s usual level of quality, showing where the various PE enhancements of the ProfiPACK edition should go, as well as calling out detail painting in their preferred Gunze Sangyo codes. Construction begins with the revised fuselage, which is painted and detailed internally with PE and styrene parts within the cockpit area to bolster the already excellent ribbing detail that is moulded-in. Some of the styrene parts are upgraded with PE fronts to further improve the look. The cockpit interior is then started with the styrene rudder pedals clipped off the part and replaced by new PE pedals. The pilot’s ventilated seat is laced with four pre-painted belts with scrap diagrams helping with arrangement, and attached to the fuselage frame by a pair of brackets that is joined by an adjuster with an optional curved PE bracket, the styrene version of which is first removed from the original part. The cockpit floor is well-detailed with rivets and is a shallow V-shape, with a small insert filling a gap in the underside, an instrument box detailed with PE toggle-switches, then the pilot’s control column and linkages are all installed on the topside along with the rudders. The sides of the cockpit contain various equipment boxes, which are all stripped of styrene detail to be replaced by PE parts, and they are then brought together with the rear frame, seat, floor and sides to create the cockpit assembly, which is then further detailed with more PE and optional decals, has the layered PE instrument panel built up and inserted into the front of the assembly, which then has the two nose-mounted machine guns added to a shaped part that slots into holes at the front of the cockpit. All of these sub-assemblies fit beautifully together, making for a strong assembly once everything is glued together. Behind the pilot a trio of tanks that are glued vertically to the back of the frame, then the completed assembly is put to the side briefly while the fuselage is glued together, adding the rudder, an insert under the tail, and a section of the top fuselage in front of the nose as you go. Once the glue has dried, the cockpit can be inserted into the fuselage from below, using the gap in the fuselage where the wings will later sit. Like many WWII fighters, the new lower wing half with its squared off tips is a single part, which is stiffened by a short spar that stretches between the ends of the wheel bays and also forms the back and end walls, and the rest of the wheel bay walls are added before the two upper wing panels are laid over the top with bay roof inserts below them and everything is glued in place. A pair of clear wingtip lights and styrene ailerons are added, and a scrap diagram shows the detail added to the centre trailing wing root’s interior should look once completed, and a small insert with circular PE grille is placed inside the belled housing at the front. The elevator fins are separate from their flying surfaces, and while the fins are two parts each, the thin trailing surfaces are single parts with lots of rib detail moulded-in. These and the wings are added to the fuselage along with some tiny fairings for the ailerons, a tapered head cushion for the pilot, which is scalloped to improve the view aft. The model is looking like a Zero now, minus the nose, which is next to be made up. Both banks of pistons of the Nakajima Sakae 21 radial engine are present, plus a fan of rods front and rear, with a two-part reduction gear bell-housing at the front, plus the wiring harness ring around it. This fits on a stepped ring that glues to the tapered front of the fuselage plus a collector ring for the exhausts, then the cowling is built up from two halves with an insert that creates the gun troughs, and is completed by the intake lip that is fitted to the lip at the front. The intake trunk is applied to the inside of the top of the cowling, and that also contains the gun troughs that project from the sloped front of the cowling. The finished cowling can then be slid over the engine and secured in place with more glue. The Zero’s wide-track gear made for easy deck-handling, and each of the main legs is made from a single strut with a captive bay door and a three-part wheel/hub combo with no sag engineered in. If you want weighted tyres, you can either sand off the bottom of the kit tyres, or get the Brassin resin wheels that we’ll be reviewing shortly, which have additional detail to sweeten the deal, and include a new tail-wheel strut into the bargain. The struts have their styrene scissor-links removed and replaced by PE parts, then the legs are inserted into the wells, and joined by the inner doors along the centreline, the tail-wheel with two-part perforated strut and tiny wheel, plus a choice of deployed or stowed arrestor hook. There are also a pair of tiny decals for the inside of the main gear bays, which adds a little extra visual interest. Finally, there is a tiny additional bay door at the base of each gear leg, with a scrap diagram showing the correct angle to fit it. With the model still on its back, the fuel tank is built-up from three parts and is glued to the underside, with a crew-step under the port edge of the wing-root fairing. The three-bladed prop is moulded as a single part, with a front and rear spinner half, which slides onto the axle at the front of the engine. On the topside, the gun-sight installs on the coaming, with a two-layer PE Direction-Finding (D/F) loop behind the pilot’s head, installed before you address the canopy. The windscreen is fitted first, and you have a choice of closed canopy that is made of two parts and an aerial, or in the open option that has the fixed rear, a slightly larger sliding canopy that fits over the rear, and the same aerial. Inside the sliding portion are a pair of small PE detail parts, and if you spring for additional Tface masks, it may be best to apply the masks before the PE parts. A clear light is added to the very rear of the fuselage, four little upstanding lights are fitted into sockets in the mid-wing, the gun muzzles are inserted into the leading edge with a pitot probe on the port side, plus two tiny PE gear-down indicators over their respective bays. Markings 5 markings options are included on the decal sheet as usual with ProfiPACK boxings, with a bit of variation to please a wider audience. From the box you can build one of the following: Ldg. Sea. Kenji Yanagiya, Kōkūtai 204, Rabaul Base, New Britain, April 1943 C/n 3018, Tainan Kōkūtai, Buna Airfield, New Guinea, August 1942 PO1c Kyoshi Itō, 3. Kōkūtai, Koepang Airfield, Timor Island, September 1942 Zuikaku Fighter Sqn., Aircraft Carrier Kuikaku, October 1942 CPO Takeo Tanimizu, Tainan Kōkūtai (II), Tainan Airbase, Taiwan, September 1944 The decals are printed by Eduard and are in good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The stencils are on a separate sheet, and are marked on a page of the booklet, separate from the rest of the markings to avoid confusion from trying to read overly busy diagrams. You also get a sheet of kabuki-style masking tape that has been pre-cut to fit the individual panes of the canopy, plus masks for the three wheels and the wingtip lights. Don’t forget that as of 2021, the carrier film from Eduard decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier-free, making the decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view. Conclusion This is a great kit for anyone interested in WWII Japanese naval aviation, and brings Eduard’s renowned level of skill and detail to this slightly later variant, providing close to maximum detail out of the box. Watch out for some additional aftermarket sets from Eduard for those that aren’t satisfied with excellent detail and want incredible detail. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

I don't fully understand myself, but this machine has always been on my list. A strange 109. I especially like the interesting role of the former German-Czech military technology in Israel. The model is fairly new, very nice and extremely detailed. Basically we get a modified G Messser with bump propeller and ugly nose. The parts were an exact fit during dry fitting. This is where I am with it so far:

Afternoon all. Well it's been some time since I was on the forum due to my bench being dismantled and closed down for house renovations, so did absolutely no modelling it seems since way back in June. Now everything is back in place, I'm getting back into it. I did have a plan to start the Takom full interior Jagdpanther G2, with all the bells and trimmings from barrel by Aber and PE by Voyager......but, I just couldn't face the multi phased construction with painting in the required stages as the build progressed......so after a dig I came up with this one. The Dragon kit from 2002 of the early version Nashorn. I quite like open top pieces as the opportunity for PE upgrading and up-detailing is wide. Sd.Kfz.164 Hornisse (Nashorn, Early Variant) Dragon No. 6165 I have the following Eduard PE set's to go with it, so it'll be a long build, but I'm OK with that. Eduard No.35618 Hornisse - Kisten und Bodenplatte #1 Eduard No.35606 Sd.Kfz.164 Hornisse (Nashorn) - Interior/Exterior Update set. ABER 35L-128, BARREL for GERMAN SPG NASHORN - fo DRAGON MODEL, 1:35 I also have dug up an Eduard set from the bottom of the stash that is actually for Shanghai Dragons very early Hornisse from 1992. I can't imagine the parts can't be fitted to their newer version. I won't be getting the 1992 version, so chance to use up a large part of the set here and there to back up the 35606 set. Another new thing on this build will be the first time in soldering the PE where required. Invested in a super fine blow torch with soldering tips etc, and liquid flux. Just now have to get a soldering mat and I'm ready to go. Well, off to make a cuppa and sit down to study instructions and make some notes...have a good day all and chat soon. Regards Simon.

My modelling “career”, such as it is, has been littered with false starts: unfinished projects, good intentions, themic obsessions, complete losses (and findings) of mojo, total reboots, that sort of thing. Sometimes it feels like the ebb and flow of life is reflected in what I’m building and how I’m building it, and yet again I find myself at a crossroads, figuratively speaking. I won’t lie, this year has been traumatic, with the break-up of a 25-year marriage and everything that goes with it. While it’s all been going on I haven’t had the time or the inclination (or, to be honest, the heart) to do any modelling at all, though I have looked in on the forum from time to time, and am keeping my 2023 GB proposal bumping along (if the time comes, I will be there – bunfight willing!) But it’s also seen the enforced gradual liquidation of a stash that I don’t have the luxury of being able to keep any more, plus while my new living circumstances are by no means terrible I now don’t have the time or the room to build or display those four-engined heavies. I feel like I’m ready to have another go, though, and am going to take it right back to where I started: a Spitfire, and a very early one at that. When I started out (last time round) a dozen years ago I used to build nothing but Spits, actually. But I’m going to use this opportunity (let’s call it that) to switch scales from 1/72 to 1/48, an acknowledgment of my clumsy fingers and not-quite-what-it-was eyesight. So I’ve ordered one of Eduard’s excellent Profipacks to see if I can get back into it. I plan to only ever buy a kit once I’ve finished the previous one (“yeah, keep telling yourself that”, I hear you say) – the world will never be empty of choice in this regard! – so I’m not throwing silly money at the hobby like I used to. Needs must, and all that. I’ve always been appreciative of the culture of mutual support around this forum. Hopefully I’ll get a result out of this. Keep on keeping on, as they say. Cheers all Tony Blast from the past: my little of squadron of 1/72 Spitfires, all long since MIA!

Bf.109G-14/AS ProfiPACK (82162) 1:48 Eduard The G variant of the Bf.109, colloquially known as the Gustav was one of the primary fighters available to the Luftwaffe during the closing years of WWII, and saw extensive active service, all the while being upgraded to combat the increasing Allied superiority in the air. Happily for the Allies, the supply of experienced pilots was fast running out, so as good as the upgrades were, they couldn't make an appreciable difference to the outcome. The G-14 was brought into service at a crucial time for the Axis forces, as the Allies pushed inland from the beachhead at Normandy, and it had an improved water injection system that gave the engine extra performance, plus the new clear-vision Erla-Haube canopy as standard. It was also an attempt to standardise the design to ease the job of construction, which had become decentralised due to the ferocity of the bombardment of the industrial areas by the Allied bombers at that stage of the war. As a result, few sub-variants were made of the G-14 even though over 5,000 were built, with command fighters and high-altitude variants the main exceptions, but the U4 had a powerful 30mm MK108 cannon fitted through the engine and firing through the centre of the prop. The AS sub-variant was the high-altitude interceptor that ran a DB 605ASM engine that was tuned for altitude, and used a methanol/water mixture dubbed ‘MW 50’ to provide an emergency combat boost for a limited period before it would cause issues. The Kit The 109G has been fairly comprehensively retooled by Eduard from their original, and while this is a new sub-variant some of the sprues date back to their later, more accurate edition. The five-digit product code is a clue to this do-over. The ProfiPACK offers additional decal options as well as other upgrades to the basic kit, and alongside the four sprues of grey styrene you will find one of clear, a sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE), a sheet of pre-cut yellow kabuki tape masks (not pictured), two decal sheets and the usual Eduard colour instruction booklet printed on glossy paper. By now most of us are familiar with the fine surface detail and dainty riveting on the outer skin of Eduard’s many Gustav boxings, and the level of detail that has been crammed into this excellent tooling. There are also tons of aftermarket parts available from Eduard for those that want to add even more detail to their models, from engines, cockpits, to wheels, bronze gear legs and flying surfaces. The world really is your oyster when it comes to how much you want to throw at your build, but for many the included PE will be more than adequate. It's all up to you! Predictably the build starts with the cockpit, which has a number of PE controls added to the floor, and a full set of PE instruments that are ready to add to the painted cockpit, as well as the fuel line part that is supplied on the clear sprue because it has a glass section as it runs through the cockpit to allow the pilot easy access for checking if there's fuel reaching the engine. A hump between the pilot’s knees caters for the breech of the cannon fitted to this sub-variant, and a full set of painted crew belts are supplied on the PE fret, plus rudder pedals for good measure. More PE is attached to the cockpit sidewalls, and with all that glued and painted you can close up the fuselage around it, not forgetting the fixed tail wheel for two options, with a spinner back-plate fitted to the front of the fuselage, and the exhaust stubs with their slide-moulded hollow tips inserted from inside into their slots, with or without a flare shield that was useful during night flying. The upper nose cannon insert and supercharger intake fit into their respective areas, and a set of optional flame deflectors made from PE are added over the exhaust stacks to prevent blinding the pilot in low light flying, while giving the modeller a more realistic thickness to them. The G-14 had a couple of options for the tail fin, with the increased use of non-strategic wood, so the fin base is moulded to the fuselage, while the tip is separate with a vertical hinge-line. The rudder is separate, and you have a choice of two, one of which needs a little material removed from the trailing edge, as indicated in red. The fin depicted in this step is the cranked hinge-line variant that isn’t used in this boxing, so just ignore the fact that the rudder wouldn’t fit the fin as shown. The fixed tail wheel with gaiter for three of the decal options is fitted to a recess under the tail at this point too. The lower wing halves are full span, and you need to open up two holes for a centre-line rack and insert a clear part in the port wing for the antenna’s electrical isolator. The wheel bay sides are in three segments and mate with the inner surface of the upper wings to give an excellent level of detail once finished, with a tunnel added that receives the strut. A small pair of rectangular panel lines are scribed into the fuselage just in front of the windscreen using a PE template that is provided on the sheet, and a pair of teardrop masks are supplied for the wingtip lights, which are moulded into the wing, but can easily be replaced by cutting out the area and fitting some clear acrylic sheet of a suitable thickness, then sanding it to shape and polishing it back to clarity. A depression depicting the bulb can be drilled in the clear part before gluing to further enhance the look if you feel so motivated. Separate leading-edge slats, ailerons and flaps are supplied, with the latter fitting around the radiator bays under the wing, which have PE grilles front and rear. A scrap diagram shows the correct orientation of the parts to ensure that both layers align correctly as per the real thing. The narrow-track landing gear consists of a single strut with moulded-in oleo scissor, a captive door that glues against it, and the one-piece tyre with separate hubs on each side. The legs fit into sockets in the wheel bays, and horn balances are fitted to the ailerons, a choice of styles of antenna under the wing is added, and a small PE access panel is glued under the fuselage behind the wing trailing edge. Before fitting the canopy, the clear gunsight must be partially painted and fitted to the top of the instrument panel, and a pair of PE grab handles are attached to the inside of the windscreen, which should be partially painted RLM66 inside or outside before the exterior colours. The Erla-style canopy opener also has PE parts added plus the pilot's head armour and a short aerial on the rear, with a PE retaining wire included for posing the canopy open. A manual starter handle is also present in case you wanted to show your G-14/AS in a more candid pose on the ground. The prop is a single part and is sandwiched by the back plate and spinner before being inserted into the hole in the front of the fuselage. Two styles of external fuel tank are supplied, one with a flat bottom edge for additional ground clearance, and the other with a smoother exterior. These fit on a rack that sits on the centreline for all markings options, a rudder trim actuator is fitted, and a small twig antenna is fitted to all options with a tiny circular base, both of which are made of PE. Markings The main markings are carried on the larger sheet, while the stencils are on the smaller one. Stencils are drawn on a separate page of the instructions to reduce repetition and clutter, and each marking option has a page all to itself to cut down on confusion and give the modeller good sized diagrams to follow. From the box you can build one of these five options: WNr.784938, III./JG6, Bissel, Germany, January 1945 WNr.783891, Fw. Heinz-Paul Müller, 9./JG300, Jüterbog-Damm, Germany, Autumn 1944 Lt. Walter Köhne, CO of 6./JG 11, Wunsdorf, Germany, October 1944 Wnr.785185, Lt. Heinz Schüler, 16./JG5, Stavanger-Forus, Norway, March 1945 WNr.785083, Sgt. Magg. Aroldo Burei, 1° Squadriglia, 1° Gruppo, Caccia ANR, Malpensa, Italy, April 1945 The masks (not pictured) cover the armoured glass in the pilot's head armour, the wheel hubs and of course the canopy, with the curved part having frame-hugging masks that need filling in the compound curved areas with scrap tape or liquid mask. These are a great time-saver and the fit of them is usually spot-on, and the only masks that are better would be if you picked up a set of Tface masks, also from Eduard that allow you to paint the canopy internally, as well as the usual exterior paint-job. I’m a big fan of those. The decals are printed by Eduard and are in good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The stencils are on a separate sheet, and are marked on a page of the booklet, separate from the rest of the markings to avoid confusion from trying to read overly busy diagrams. Don’t forget that as of 2021, the carrier film from Eduard decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier-free, making the decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view. Conclusion These are superb kits from Eduard, and they are priced well, considering the detail and markings options included. They don't bother with novelties such as magnets to hold cowlings in place, but if you should perchance want to show off your engine, you can get a superbly detailed resin unit separately and those that don't want to show off their engines don't have to pay for parts they aren't going to use. The G is my personal favourite, so I'm more than happy to see another one from Eduard. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

F4F-4 Wildcat Early ProfiPACK (82202) 1:48 Eduard Grumman began development work on a new carrier-based fighter in the mid-30s, starting with the F2F, which was a biplane, but it and the successor F3F led to the basic shape of the Wildcat, minus two of the wings. Initially, the new aircraft was outpaced by the Brewster Buffalo, and Grumman had to redesign their aircraft to carry a supercharged version of the Pratt & Whitney R-1830 Twin Wasp radial engine, and later on, new flying surfaces that gave it the needed improvement, receiving orders from the US Navy as a very sensible and prophetic backup-plan in case the Buffalo was a let-down. Initial orders from France were delivered to the British Royal Navy after France fell before delivery, where it was initially designated as the Marlet. The US Navy would adopt the type in late 1941 after the Buffalo turned out to be a disappointment, although it was quite a manoeuvrable little aircraft that saw some service elsewhere. Originally armed with 4 x 0.50 cal machine guns, the F4F-4 was introduced in 1941 with an increased 6 guns to improve the aircraft's punching power. Although the armament was increased to 6 guns, the ammunition capacity was not, giving pilots less time with their fingers on the trigger, which was generally disliked by the pilots for obvious reasons. The extra weight from two more guns and the new wing fold gear also reduced performance, which could keep the pilot in harm’s way longer than with the early mark. It was the primary US Carrier fighter during the early years of America’s war, with production continuing until 1943 when they switched over to building the replacement Hellcat, but one factory continued to make Wildcats for the British Fleet Air Arm (FAA). The Wildcat’s smaller size and slower landing speed was a boon on the typically smaller carrier that the British Navy operated in large numbers as escort carriers. The Kit This is a reboxing with a new sprue of this brand-new project from Eduard, and I can tell you with hand-on-heart, having already built the -3 that they have created yet another highly detailed and well-engineered kit, from which more variants will be forthcoming for us, the modelling public. It arrives in Eduard’s modern gold themed top-opening box, and inside are five sprues in dark grey styrene, a clear sprue, a nickel-plated pre-painted fret of Photo-Etch (PE), a sheet of pre-cut kabuki masking tape, a large decal sheet, and the glossy instruction booklet with colour profiles in the rear pages. Detail is exceptional, as we’ve come to expect from Eduard’s engineers, right up there with, if not the best examples of plastic models as of today. There is some judicious use of sliding moulds to improve detail without increasing the part count unduly, the most notable being the rudder, which is hollow and ready for an insert during the build process. Construction begins in the cockpit, which takes over a page of the instructions and starts with the pilot’s foot boards that fit onto a Z-shaped bulkhead, and has the frame that holds the head cushion plus a pressurised bottle and two small PE parts hanging behind the seat. The two mounts are added to the frame before fitting the seat, which is prepared by adding a small PE strip diagonally across the rear of the seating area, plus four-point belts with a comfort pad under the buckle and tabs dangling down behind the seat. The instrument panel is integrated in another frame that encompasses a tank, which is bulked out by adding another part to the other side, then you have a choice of applying a decal to the moulded-in dials, or a two-layer PE instrument panel that is applied in three sections, complete with a fully pre-painted set of dials and surrounds, plus the shiny domed dial glazing finishing. The side consoles are made up from a large number of parts, some of which are PE and pre-painted, then they are slotted into the rear frame and the instrument panel frame to create the cockpit’s tub. The rudder pedals are based on a single styrene part that is decorated with PE parts added to the centre section, plus tiny little PE parts on each pedal, removing a little of the centre section before adding them. This slips in behind the instrument panel and is joined by a long rectangular lattice panel representing the spar that mates to the front end of the foot boards, all of which fits snugly. The cockpit is left to one side for a while so that the engine mount assembly and main gear bay can made. This is based upon the firewall, from which a tapered spar projects from each side. The engine mounts, a set of chains and the rear ancillary package of the engine are assembled to the front of the bulkhead, then a boxy divider for the gear bays with two supports is added to the underside, a clamshell-shaped tank sits in the top of the mounts, and a C-shaped air-box assembly that latches onto the sides of the mounts. The insides of the fuselage have fine ribbing moulded into them, and this is augmented by a number of PE parts, and small rectangular windows with radiused corners in both sides of the fuselage, which are inserted from outside during closure of the two halves around the cockpit and engine mount. There is a panel line on the dinghy pack bay that needs filling on the top of the spine, and another should be scribed lower down. Underneath the nose is an insert that forms the space between the two exhausts and the exhausts themselves, which have deep hollows moulded into them for realism. In a change from the -3, the wings are next, and as they’re mounted mid-fuselage, they’re totally separate from each other. Each one is made from upper and lower halves, with a small insert with PE mesh parts wedged inside the bulged fairings on the underside before the two halves are closed, and the ailerons are added to their position near the tips of the wings. The elevator fins are simple two-part assemblies each, and they’re attached to the tail via the usual tab and slot method, at the same time the wings are slid over their spars. The elevators are moulded as one piece, and clip into the rear of the fins either side of the rudder fin, and are then locked in place by adding the rudder panel, which has a slide-moulded triangular hole inside, which is filled by adding an insert before gluing it in place. The very rear of the arrestor hook is slipped inside the fuselage with a clear light above it, and a clear light is inserted into the leading edge of the port wing and outlined by a PE strip. The engine is built up before adding the wings, and we get both banks of the Twin Wasp engine as separate parts, plus push rods and the bell housing that has the drive-shaft projecting from it. All it needs is some wiring for the spark plugs unless you’re going to get yourself some aftermarket for it. I spent a few minutes with some lead wire for my build. The cowling is standardised with the cylindrical section made from two halves, adding a lip to the front that has the intakes moulded-in, all of which fit together brilliantly. The finished engine and cowling are glued to the front of the fuselage while the wings are being added, and it’s worth noting here that the wings are the main new parts, with more panel lines, rivets, appliqué panels and the prominent wing-fold lines. The instrument coaming gets inserted in the front of the cockpit, with a choice of PE ring and bead sight or normal sight, depending on which decal option you choose. The landing gear has been relegated to later in the build, as even though the struts and retraction jacks are buried deep inside the fuselage, it’s perfectly possible to leave them off until the end. Each leg is made of three parts with scrap diagrams showing how they are arranged, and once the glue is dry and they’ve been painted, they are inserted deep into the fuselage, the cylindrical top ends mating with cups that are moulded into the firewall. They are then buttressed by more styrene parts, the diminutive fixed tail strut is made up of two halves that trap a choice of two styles of wheel, and the main wheels are each made of a single tyre and two hub halves that slip over the axles at the bottom of the main gear legs, with a pair of small inner doors added to the centreline while the fuselage is inverted – don’t forget to add exhaust staining to these parts during painting, as I did. The final page finishes off the build with the canopy, starting with a choice of two windscreens, which have a small PE rear-view mirror added inside before being glued in place. There are two canopy parts depending on whether you want to depict the canopy slid back over the spine or not, the latter slightly widened to fit over the spine against the sharply forward-raked antenna. There are masks for all the included canopies included on the kabuki tape sheet, but only for the exterior, and I’m now seriously besotted with the Tface masks that allow the modeller to paint the interior frames too. The model is then finished off with a number of tiny clear lights at the wingtips; three gun barrels in each wing leading edge; forward-raked antenna on the spine with a clear light just behind it; barbed pitot probe in the port wingtip leading edge; the single-part prop that has stencil decals supplied with an additional spinner; two bomb shackles under the wing for some options that I decided to paint a dark metallic shade, and a single PE aerial under the fuselage depending on which decal option you have chosen. Markings There are six decal options in the box, spread over one large sheet. From the box you can build one of the following: BuNo.03417, Lt. Stanley W Vejtasa, VF-10, USS Enterprise (CV-6), October 1942 BuNo.5149, VF-3, USS Yorktown (CV-5) & USS Hornet (CV-8), May/June 1942 Ens. Thomas W Rhodes, VF-6, USS Enterprise (CV-6), Early August 1942 Ens. Benjamin F Currie, VF-5, USS Saratoga (CV-3)/Guadalcanal, Autumn 1942 Ens. Hamilton McWhorter, VF-9, USS Ranger (CV-4), October 1942 OTU VFB-8, Daytona Beach, USA, 1944 The decals are printed by Eduard and are in good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. It’s worth remembering that as of 2021, the carrier film from Eduard decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier-free, making the decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view. I tried them out on my F4F-3, and they worked brilliantly, with some minor aspects to watch out for. Have a look at the link to my build in my signature strip if you’re curious. Conclusion As you might have already guessed, I built the F4F-3 when it arrived and thoroughly enjoyed it, so please accept my apologies for the asides dotted through the review. It’s a cracking kit, and this one looks to be more of the same. The detail added to the new wings should come up brilliantly under paint and a bit of realistic-looking weathering, so don’t hold back. Your modelling mojo will thank you. Extremely highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Thanks HKR Eduard worked in secret on a new kit and tomorrow it will be announced 7PM (Warsaw Time) UPDATE - It'll be a family of 1/48th Mitsubishi A6M "Zero" Source: https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95280&start=33390#p2448351 V.P.

In the Czech Modelforum it's mentioned that after the 1/48th MiG-21, Spitfire and Bf.109 families, Eduard has as long term project the North American P-51 Mustang in the same scale. Wait and see. Source: http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=68170&start=5865 V.P.

Time for my dad´s next 109 project. Gonna use this weekend edition and build one of the rare known G-4 in desert camo, flown by one of the Austrian aces serving in the Wehrmacht Luftwaffe. DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr

Hi all, here's my Eduard Avia S-199 in 1/72. Built as part of a little Israeli multi build I'm doing, WIP can be found here: This S-199 is from the 101st squadron of the Israeli Air Force, the First Fighter Squadron. The kit was fantastic for the most part. The only issues I had were with the decals, the rudder decal was especially challenging. This was my first go at a 1/72 prop but I can safely say I'm in no rush to have another go, I haven't got the eyesight or patience for such small parts . Thanks for looking in, more IAF builds on the way...

This is the first aircraft model kit that I have completed since I was a kid. I normally do ship models. Lots of mistakes and errors but had loads of fun doing it. Built straight out of the box. But added some paper surgical tape to the wings, tailplane and fuselage to try and create a more authentic finish that more closely resembles linen. Also scratchbuilt propeller from laminated 0.5mm pear veneer. Rigging made from elastic thread with turnbuckles from 0.1mm wire with 0.5mm steel tubes. The case is a $7 candle holder from Kmart. Model is suspended by elastic thread glued to inside of case with CA.

This is the first aircraft model kit that I have completed since I was a kid. I normally do ship models. Lots of mistakes and errors but had loads of fun doing it. Built straight out of the box. But added some paper surgical tape to the wings and fuselage to try and create a more authentic finish that more closely resembles linen. Also scratchbuilt propeller from 0.5mm pear veneer. Rigging made from elastic thread with turnbuckles from 0.1mm wire with 0.5mm steel tubes. The case is a $7 candle holder from Kmart.

Eduard is to release 1/48th Grumman F4F Wildcat kits: F4F-3 through F4F-4, FM-1 and FM-2 to Martlets. Sources: https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95280&start=33705#p2449036 https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95280&start=33720#p2449051 https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95280&start=33765#p2449103 V.P.

I've been building this one since I finished the review you can find here, and used some of the many aftermarket sets that we got at the same time to bump up the detail a little. Painted with Gunze Sangyo Aqueous paints, and using the kit decals with their peel-off carrier film, which I'm sold on. From memory, here's a list of the AM I ended up using: 648777 Cockpit Set 648768 Wheels Late 648779 Bronze Gear Legs 648766 Exhausts & Gun Barrels I used a very time-consuming painting method that I'm sure has been tried by lots of other folks before, but it needs quite a bit of patience in un-gumming the airbrush in between sessions, painting each panel and in-between the rivet lines separately with a slightly lightened shade of the base coat. Takes some time and gives you a neck ache, and although it works on these dirty, faded subjects, would probably be useless on a clean aircraft TBH. You can see the work in progress in the WIP area Here's a bunch of pics I took: Spot the two little holes! I had a lot of fun, and the detail is phenomenal OOB, and even better with the extras I used. I can't wait to see what's next from Eduard

Hi All, So yes I know you may or may not be thinking "he's got two carriers on the go what is he doing starting something else!". Well truth be told is because of a recent purchase I made which builds into a grand (well I think its grand) plan. More on the purchase below and you can see it in the photo's. Some time ago @ArnoldAmbrose made a suggestion on my 1/350 Dunkerque build that I could do one of each of the treaty battleships as a collection. Im not sure how serious it was but Jeff - the idea took hold well and truly! So I've been gathering kits and extras as a result, still much to get but enough now to make a start. The one frustration is no available injection kit of Nelson or Rodney in 1/350 but we can hope. I think when we think of naval arms races we often think of WW1 but it was well and truly underway before WW2 as well, just not in the numbers as twenty five years before. The plan is that this thread will be the first in the series that I'm hoping to do over the next few.....um .....years. So far i've got hold of the following in the stash; Admiral Graf Spee Strasbourg (having built Dunkerque0 Littorio Scharnhorst 1940 Richelieu Prince of Wales To add North Carolina and Alabama/Massachusetts (although i have some detail bits for them). In some ways Nelson and Rodney sit outside of this as they were outside of this build up towards the second world war, existing almost in isolation. Im pretty sure this lot will take quite some time as I juggle life and hobby, not to mention the other things i have to build as well! I wanted to make a start though. I picked up Strasbourg for a steal the other day (£40) and want to build her desperately as i love the French ships but the first in the line of treaty battleships was Admiral Graf Spee (AGS). Not that she was a battleship at all of course, the word pocket always added to any introduction of her and her class was later reclassified as heavy cruisers. I've been doing little bits and pieces on the kit over the past 12 months or so, pulling it out when I wanted to stick bits of plastic together/first try colourcoats paints by brush. This is the Academy version, and imho it's not great, its not terrible but its a real mixed bag. I chose it over the trumpeter as I thought it had better lines but its certainly not great in terms of engineering. It has some parts that are nicely detailed, others that are bland and it doesn't go together seamlessly shall we say! A few photo's of where I'm at and what I have to use: Whilst watching the very disappointing rugby yesterday I began drilling out scuttles, id previously started then changed my mind, filled and then changed my mind again hence the filler smear at the bow. Seams - seams everywhere! Luckily the detail sets will correct lots of the very soft detail. Im surprised really each time i think about this one. Academys Warspite is great, clean and crisp moulding - AGS by comparison is just a bit messy. Sets from Eduard, MK.1 and Master barrels for her; I still need a deck for her - the plastic one is alright but has a noticeable join so I'll try a wooden one, and her AA guns are woeful so need replacing! So that's where I'm at. My carriers will continue to be the main focus whilst I get them over the line but my hobby evenings are normally Tues, Thurs and a bit on the weekend and AGS will take one of those slots. Thanks for stopping in, S-boat

Hi, There are a couple of posts describing the conversion of combining various kits to end up with a Mk XIV high back. I am lacking the Spitfire knowledge despite reading through the various builds here on BM and P.B. on YouTube etc. to confidently build an accurate XIV. There is also a reasonable possibility that if I don’t post it as a WIP on BM, it may not be finished at all and keep lingering in it’s boxes. So here we go: Probably no surprise but the bases are the Eduard Mk VIII weekend ed. and the Airfix FR Mk XIV. In my naivety, I think below should probably accomplish the construction of the MkXIVc Highback. 1. Mostly use the fuselage of the VIII which should fit nicely in the: 2. C-Wing of the VIII 3. Using the bigger Airfix underwing air scoops 4. possibly filling in some fuselage panels on the port side and scribing a new panel on the Eduard starboard side 5. Use the nose and prop from the Airfix kit and attach it to the Eduard Mk VIII fuselage 6. Use the entire tail section of the Airfix kit As I write this I have a feeling that my assumptions are already wrong and I have cut off the wrong sections and made a complete hash of it, but perhaps not. The bases To my surprise after trying to figure out how to correctly scale and print a drawing, the outlines all match up. (Making sure everything will be aligned ok) The question is what to do with the fuselage panels? Use the air intakes from the Airfix kit: Any feedback confirming or pointing out flaws in my build assumptions are very welcome. If successful I may finish it as a MkXIVc in RAF 322 Squadron markings. It will not be a fast build as I will start work on my RF-101 Voodoo and continue on my ship build as well. At least, that is the plan. May do a WIP on both. Anyway, that’s all, Thanks for watching, Rgds, Rob

This weekend at the E-Days 2013 the box art picture from the Eduard's future 1/48th Messerschmitt Bf.109 G-6 kit. Source: http://www.master194.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=78075. V.P.

Hi all, Just getting back to modelling as I’ve recently moved house and got my new workshop up and running (I’ve added a few pics ). I’ve so missed having a modelling space! I saw Brett’s review of the Brassin engine for this on Hyperscale and was so taken with the detail I had to order one and the associated Eduard S-199 - not a kit I would naturally be drawn to. The Brassin set is nothing short of spectacular in this scale, I’m not sure it’s turned out exactly how I wanted it. I’d be tempted to build another (maybe the two seat trainer?). I’m never happy at the end of a model! It does require a little surgery of the fuselage and cockpit, but not too bad. Anyway, here she is… And the raw parts… And my new man cave! Thanks for looking in, Guy

Just your basic Eduard kit, not much drama. Painted with Tamiya, a 3:2 mix of XF-18 Medium Blue/XF-2 Flat White for the PRU Blue undersides

Eduard is to rebox with add ons the Revell 1/48th MRCA Tornado GR Mk.1 "Gulf War/Desert Babe" kit - ref. 11136 Expected in March 2020.Source: http://www.kitreviewsonline.de/eduard-pressekonferenz-in-nuernberg/ V.P.

Source: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/308021-eduard-mig-21f-mig-21-uusum-in-48th-scale/&do=findComment&comment=2957764 V.P.

Greetings from Italy. Just finished the Eduard bf110 C in a strange unusual scheme as a mix of german and italian insigna. This model represents one of the few bf110 operated as night fighter by Regia Aeronautica "235^ Squadriglia" based at Lonate Pozzolo airport in early 1943. This airport was about 40 km North West of Milan and now is still in use but better known as Milan Malpensa (MXP). The Edurd kit is very nice but I would say not for beginners. Painting has been done usign Gunze colours and spray finishing. Weathering is a mix of oil wash and pastels. Decals are from the italian brand Tauro Models. Enjoy pictures and please feel free to comment. Cheers Andy