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Ultimate Pigments (x10) Ultimate Modelling Products Pigments are an interesting tool to weather your models with, allowing the modeller to depict dust, mud, soil, soot and rust in either gauzy thin layers, thick caked-on blobs, as dried out layers, and anywhere in between by applying them either dry, wet, or fixed in place with any good quality white spirit. They take a bit of practice, but there are a billion how-to videos out there, as well as step-by-step guides in instructional books and magazines that you may already have on your bookshelf. To achieve other colours, you can mix the pigments together, with different textures and shades achievable by varying the level of mixing you do. This range of pigments begins with a set of 10 pots that are available separately or as a full or half set, and each one contains 30ml of powder in a clear threaded container with matching cap, identified with stickers on the cap and base so you won’t get your lids confused. The base of each one is around 43mm across, so they are less likely to tip over, and believe me when I say that a little spilled pigment goes a long way. You will notice that some of the powder has accumulated into micro-balls in transit, probably due to a weak attraction or static build-up. They’re soft and easily broken down with just a poke from the tip of a brush, so are only worth noting in passing. I’ve had a play with the pigments over the last few days, applying small quantities dry, damp and wet, as well as fixing dry clumps in place with white spirit, and they work as anticipated, creating the effects mentioned in the initial paragraph, as you’d hope and expect. As already mentioned, a little goes a long way and 30ml will last a number of projects unless you are really slathering it onto your models or diorama bases. A few more variants would be welcome (especially greens and yellows), but with some mixing, you can create a large range of shades to suit your needs. Rust (UMP139) Light Rust (UMP140) Ash (UMP141) Moss (UMP142) Mud (UMP143) Earth (UMP144) Dirt (UMP145) Sand (UMP146) Sandy Earth (UMP147) Black (UMP148) Conclusion A new string to Ultimate’s bow, and one that you can add to your collection of modelling tools either individually, in two bites by purchasing two sets of 5 pots, or as below by getting the whole set in one fell swoop, which at time of writing is on discount in their store. Check out the link below. Highly recommended. Full Set (UMP149) Review sample courtesy of

Hi all, just a quck question: I'm wondering how to get a nice dusty finish (such as on MickE's beautiful Wellington http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235001041-148-wellington-1c/?hl=wellington )without using pigments, but buying online is my only option, and I can't find any MiG pigments(I can also take a cheaper brand of pigment, if any) under AUD$15 ( £8) as the nearest model shop is more than 1500km (950mi) away; not really an option! I know you can also airbrush a dusty-looking covering on, but I would need some tips on this before starting. Any answers welcome!!

Ok, this is starting to drive me crazy. I've been brush-painting Humbrol enamel gloss brunswick green onto a fairly large area of an Airfix "Beam Engine" (a steam engine used for pumping water out of mines), but the paint is like a magnet for dust! Even as I'm brushing on the paint I can see a few bit of dust settling, and when I come back after letting it dry the whole thing is just coated in dust. I've tried sanding off the dust and repainting, I had the same problem, I sanded again and tried leaving the model under a box while the paint dried and it still came out "dusty". I've worked with matt enamel for the most part until now, and not really had this trouble, I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm using a Revell Marten hair paintbrush, I thoroughly mix the paint in the tin (thought the gloss green never looks like it needs it), brush straight from the tin, and the room doesn't seem all that dusty. I've seen kits built where the gloss finish is like a highly polished brand-new car, a mirror-like sheen and not a blemish on it - any advice on how I can get this kind of effect on my kit?