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Hi folks, Well I mentioned in the Revell C-17 thread that I was working on the 1/72 Anigrand kit. I have a thread running over at ARC but since a lot of you don't frequent that forum I thought I would run a thread here as well. Since the issue of the 1/144 Anigrand kit and now the Revell kit the short comings of Anigrand's monster are becoming well known (to me at least). So a summary of the work so far. Cockpit/Nose. The kit's nose is too bulbous, so I fill the inside of the cockpit area with 5-minute epoxy and started sanding. This shot shows the modified side on the left after this shot was taken I sanded it a bit more to flatten it a little more. This also shows the left side wind root moved back, more on that later. No picture thanks to Photobucket ...C-17/wingrootcomparisonsm.jpg The windscreen panels are the wrong size and shape, took 3 goes to get the position and proportions about right. The nose profile also needs reshaping. The clear piece on the kit was deceiving as the rear window actually should be about 10mm forward of where the kit has it. It looks a mess at the moment but I hope after a primer it will be better (I hope). You can also see how much resin I have removed, the cockpit walls were about 2mm thick! No picture thanks to Photobucket ..C-17/windscreenrework2sm.jpg Wing Root The wings are about 25mm too far forward on the fuselage so the root was removed and shifted back 25mm. This shot shows the move in progress, I cut a section out, removed 25mm from the back end of it, moved the root forward and glued the 25mm slab to the front. It needed to be reshaped to fit as well (I used an orbital sander to take the excess off ). No picture thanks to Photobucket ...C-17/RootmovedbackSM.jpg This shot shows the root moved and compared to the Revell kit. No picture thanks to Photobucket ...C-17/cutting.jpg Tail Fin Started with this (below) shape is out, who would have guessed? No picture thanks to Photobucket ...C-17/TailbeforeSM.jpg After some putty, cutting and sanding... the rudders will be posed offset. No picture thanks to Photobucket ...C-17/rudder3sm.jpg Sponsons/Wheel wells This is where I am up to now, Where do I start? Well let's see... the main well is short by 10mm and too far forward my 3mm. As a result, the paratroop door behind the sponson is also out by about 3mm, the auxiliary gear doors also need moving and I had previously noted the shape was out as well. Which means that the locating holes for the main gear legs are too far forward by about 5mm... are we having fun yet? So the Aux door I cut out on the other side is wrong and will need filling and moving to the correct location. I also found another issue with the height of the well opening on the sponson (outboard side), it seems to be too tall, At this point I am not going to change it, all it may need is some card to fill the top edge of the opening and removing some material for the outboard gear doors. I may revisit it later. On the picture below you can see my scribbling, the dotted lines show the current scribed positions of the aux and para doors, I have also drawn in the sponson extension. The hatched areas are what I need to cut out/off. No picture thanks to Photobucket ...C-17/RHSponsonSM.jpg Rear Ramp I decided to open it up and used the kits panel lines as a guide, turns out they are wrong, so I have remarked the lines and will have to cut more (hatched area). No picture thanks to Photobucket ...C-17/RampmodsSM.jpg So there you go, that is where I am at, I have a day at a model show do a building demo tomorrow so I will be updating the other side cockpit windows, modding the sponsons and openning up the ramp area. Wish me luck!

Can anyone recommend some really good fine detail brushes ? These humbrol ones have fanned out at the ends after only a few uses and I could use something more reliable ? Ta for looking

The other day I uploaded a number of photos of Typhoons. Here are some more for reference purposes, both general and detail shots. For those currently building or are about to build I hope these are of assistance. Regards Andy Nose gear looking king from the port side. It is worth noting that the colour is is pale gloss greys Undercarriage looking front to rear. Again note the angle from the vertical of the main undercarriage. Nose undercarriage age looking starboard to port Main undercarriage Looking from front to rear. Note the angle of the undercarriage from the vertical. Starboard wing tip Starboard main undercarriage Looking from rear to front The noisy end Flight line Flight line again. ZJ806 in the great British summer

The other day I uploaded a number of photos of Typhoons. Here are some more for reference purposes, both general and detail shots. For those currently building or are about to build I hope these are of assistance. Regards Andy Nose gear looking king from the port side. It is worth noting that the colour is is pale gloss greys Undercarriage looking front to rear. Again note the angle from the vertical of the main undercarriage. Nose undercarriage age looking starboard to port Main undercarriage Looking from front to rear. Note the angle of the undercarriage from the vertical. Starboard wing tip Starboard main undercarriage Looking from rear to front The noisy end Flight line Flight line again. ZJ806 in the great British summer

Hi! Sorry for not posting for ages, I lost my login details like an idiot! Anyhow - we have a Customer Model Album on out Facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/neomegaresin/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1303897316304990 If you have any models with NeOmega, Vector or Komplekt Zip sets in, then we'd love to see them!

We are very happy to announce that we will be stocking Ultracast products at Sovereign Hobbies. The first order is due to land in a couple of weeks.

Hey, I'm new to these forums I was looking online for an A10 'Hog' (1/48) to add to my stash, but came across five or so different models. They all seemed to have their good and bads (e.g. no detail; no access panels; bad decals etc...). I have no idea which one to get. Money is not an issue, and I want to model it being heavily maintained, therefore, I want as many access panels as possible. If the engine's cowling can be opened, then a detailed engine would be nice. I also want a detailed cockpit. I don't care what the decals are like because I will probably get aftermarket ones. Please can any of you give your opinion on which model is best. Please link any detail sets (e.g. engine or cockpit) for one in your answer. Thanks )

Not sure if this has been posted before but if not then I thought it might be of interest, The sad tale of the ex Strathallan collection Lanc, including some interesting detail shots of various bays, pipework etc that might be of use to someones superdetailing. http://www.timefadesaway.co.uk/strathallan/kb976/kb_976_7.html

Good evening all, Could I enquire as to whether anyone would have any photos of the Vulcan rear crew seats with all of the cushions/padding added and any belts and straps that were present on such seats? I've seen numerous photos of the rear crew seats (been lucky enough to have the experience of sitting in one at the Midland Air Museum) and in almost all of those photos, no buckles and straps are present (presumably because they are museum aircraft). What kind of straps were present in operational aircraft? A bit of context-Having abandoned my early attempt failure at creating a 1:35 plasticard vulcan cockpit and getting all of the proportions and structure completely wrong, I embark (with more skill, dare I say) but on a different scale and a different material-card. I'm attempting to make a 1:48 card vulcan, I would post the build process on this website but the photo uploading process is so much easier on the blog compared to here (i'm sorry to say). If anyone fancies having a peek-http://cardvulcan.blogspot.co.uk/ Regards, Sam

I'm an ex detail freak and have seen work on this site that is absolutely beautiful, stuff my failing eyesight and shaky hands couldn't come close to achieve, but....it drives me nuts to see guys adding wiring loom details and twisting them, as an ex aircraft electrician I have to implore you, don't do it, wiring in real live demands equal OCD levels of attention and is NEVER twisted, it is a sparkies pride to ensure wires NEVER cross because it would cause chafing. So please take this onboard you detail freaks and keep up the ever increasingly good work

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Etch Detail Sets for the Italeri Spitfire Mk.IX 1:72 Eduard First entering service with 64 Sqn at Hornchurch in July 1942, the Mk.IX was impressed into service to counter the new FW190A which was causing great concern due to its capability over the Spitfire Mk.V. The Mk.IX was intended to be a stop gap whilst the Mk.VIII was developed, however such was its success, no less than 5665 were eventually built. There are several kits for the 1/72 Mk.IX to choose from, however these etch sets are aimed at the established Italeri kit although I suspect they can be used in others with a small amount of work. As is quite common now, Eduard provide the more comprehensive pack containing two frets giving internal and external enhancements as well as providing the lower cost Zoom set that primarily focuses on the cockpit. Set 73431 This is the comprehensive two fret pack. The interior fret comes with pre-painted parts, although like some isn't self adhesive. The Italeri kit comes with a fairly basic cockpit and no side wall detail, so this is a most welcome set. Further more, the canopy is supplied in two parts so you have the option of having it open so all your hard work in the pit won't be wasted ! Starting with the side panels, a complete pre=painted side wall is provided for each side. These are then built up with no less than 10 parts per side of additional etch components such as the throttle cluster. The panel receives the same thorough treatment with three parts to produce a truly 3D look. Framework for the gunsight is provided, however some scratch building is necessary to provide the circular sight lens. The kit seat can be replaced by a fully etch and far more accurate replica that includes seatbelts which are pre-painted. The complete armour and framework assembly behind the seat is also provided in the etch sets. Finally, the access door can also be replaced with an etch part. Moving on to the exterior of the aircraft. with this set, you have the option to have the flaps in the open position thanks to a fully detailed set. Some plastic rod is required here of about 0.6mm diameter to act as flap hinges that run the full length of the flaps. Unfortunately this plastic isn't provided in the set. The radiators are enhanced with mesh front and rear as well as rear flaps that require the original parts to be cut away. These can then be set to the angle you desire. The main undercarriage is treated to some fine Oleo scissors to replace the bulky and toy like kit scissors as well as some brake lines and replacement doors of a more realistic thickness. A nice little touch is the inclusion of very intricate flap position indicators for the top wing. Further surface enhancements are included in the set such as the access panel on the left behind the cockpit, windscreen mirror, canopy opening handle and rudder control rods. A great little feature included is some moulds in the fret to enable the moulding of some tear drop shaped navigation and fuselage lights. The instructions show how to do this using clear plastic rod melted over a flame then pressed into the provided moulds to create the lights. These are worth keeping in the tool box ! Zoom Set SS431 This is the cheaper alternative that just includes the coloured etch. Unfortunately, you will only be able to partially kit the cockpit out with this set as the seat, rear framework and armour are all included on the fret that isn't provided. What you do get though is the beautiful side walls, access door, main panel and seatbelts as you can see in the image above. Conclusion This set will really bring your Mk.IX alive with some fine detail. I recommend plenty of dry fitting along the way as the Italeri kit can present challenges during the assembly stage, but with some patience and planning your efforts will be quite rewarding. Having reviewed the comprehensive set 73431, I can't help but feel that I'd be disappointed using the Zoom set due to the exclusions in the cockpit by comparison, but that is a reflection of the great work Eduard have done here. Review sample courtesy of

I have been doing some reading on getting a competition finish to one's model. I fully understand the use of pre-shading and applying washes. However, my question is do you do one or the other or both?