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  1. DH.82A Tiger Moth with Bombs (32038) 1:32 ICM via Hannants Ltd The de Havilland Tiger Moth was one of the most important and most widely produced trainer aircraft to have seen service with the RAF. It was designed by Geoffrey de Havilland himself in the 1930s and was based on the Gypsy Moth, suitably redesigned to meet Air Ministry Specification 13/31. In comparison to its predecessor, the Tiger Moth's wings were swept and repositioned, and the cockpits were redesigned to make escape easier. The airframe was also strengthened and the engine exhaust system was redesigned. The Tiger Moth entered service with the RAF in 1932 and remained in service until well after the war. Over 8,000 examples were completed and the type also served with the Royal Australian Air Force, the Royal Canadian Air Force and the Royal New Zealand Air Force as well as a great many other military and civilian operators. In service it proved itself to be ideally suited to its role; easy enough to fly, but challenging enough to weed out the weaker students. It was also cheap and easy to maintain. Further variants would be the DH.82C fitted with an enclosed hood for cold weather operations in Canada; and the Queen Bee which was an unmanned radio-controlled target drone that resulted in a thinning of the herd of surviving airframes. Always popular with civilian users, many Tiger Moths found their way into private ownership after the War, with many maintained in flying condition to this day. The Kit This is a reboxing of the recent tool from ICM that was first released in 2020, so it’s a thoroughly modern model. It includes additional parts that permitted the Tiger Moth to carry bombs, usually as a training device, but if there was nothing airborne and aggressive above the enemy, it’s possible to drop bombs on them from this frail little aircraft, hoping they don’t get the bright idea of shooting back before you have scarpered. The detail is excellent as we’ve come to expect from ICM, and providing you aren’t phobic about rigging, should make a straight-forward build. Construction begins with drilling holes in the two fuselage halves, using holes that are pre-thinned from the inside to ease the way. The fuselage halves are then detailed with throttle quadrants, instrument panels with dial decals, and the bulkheads between the two seating areas. At this time there are a couple more 0.3mm holes drilled in the top cowling in front of the cockpit to insert more rigging wires, which you’ll need to supply yourself, along with more threaded through the holes in the fuselage sides that you drilled earlier. Helpfully, the instructions tell you the length of wire that you should plan for, although I’d be tempted to use the numbers as a minimum value, just in case. You can always cut some off, but adding some on is much more of a skill. With that the fuselage is closed up, a firewall is inserted into the front, and an elevator inserted onto a rectangular peg in the rear of the fuselage, with a choice of narrow insert in the top of the tail area, or the wider strakes that are fitted to two of the decal options, followed by the standard rudder fin, which has the tail skid moulded into the bottom. There is a good representation of the four-cylinder Gypsy Major engine that outputs less power than my perfectly normal family car, which makes one stop and think for a second. The block is in two halves that trap the conical drive-shaft inside, exhaust manifold, mounts and other ancillaries, with a baffle on one side, after which it can be glued into the firewall at the front of the fuselage, and have the cowling parts installed along with the open or closed access doors for the crew, small intake on the starboard cowling, and bumper-strips on the forward edge of each cockpit aperture. A blind-flying hood is supplied in two parts in the retracted position for one decal option, but it is shown on all three, so ignore that. The lucky crew have a three-faceted windscreen placed in recesses in front of them to keep the bugs out of their teeth, then we move onto the wings. The wings are full-width parts, and the lower wing is made first, drilling rigging holes in the top surface, and leaving off the underside of this and the topside of the upper wing until after the rigging is complete. Whilst that might work for some, I’d be a little wary of gluing big parts such as the wings together after painting, although that’s just my opinion. You may have noticed there were no more cockpit details made up earlier, which is because the rest of the cockpit is built on the lower wing centre, as that’s where you will find the cockpit floor. A narrow control assembly is made first with rudder bars and control columns in duplicate, fitting into the cockpit floor on eight small rectangular slots, then joined by the aft seat, and the weird front seat that is moulded as a deep depression into the bulkhead between the two. The lower wing (upper only) is then mated with the fuselage, completing the cockpit at the same time. The interplane struts are individual parts in the outer wings, with two Z-shaped cabane struts fixed high on the fuselage sides just in front of the cockpit. More rigging holes are drilled into the lower half of the upper wing before joining it to the struts and adding the ribbed fuel tank to the centre of the upper wing. The next two diagrams shows the location of the rigging using red lines, dotting them where they pass out of sight, and numbering them in a dot-to-dot fashion. After completion of rigging, the upper-upper and lower-lower wing halves are glued in place, hiding any messy rigging knots that you might have left. It does make for a clean job of the rigging, but I’m no expert at rigging. The upper wing has a pair of slats added to the leading edge, and ailerons to the lower trailing edge, then it’s time to make the landing gear. The wheels of the Tiger Moth are moulded in two halves, and slide over the axle-ends of a single complex W-shaped (ish) strut, which once it is in place is buttressed by four support struts that prevent the gear collapsing on landing. A little L-shaped tube glues to the underside of the fuselage while it’s upside down, and actuators are added under the ailerons, plus a couple of support struts are fitted between the elevators and fuselage, which also have triangular actuators added to small slots that are mirrored on the rudder, with more rigging added there later on. The prop is a single part that snugs into the tapered drive-shaft, and then it’s bomb-time! The Tiger moth could carry eight bombs on two palettes suspended from the underside of the fuselage, which are made up from the flat palette, plus four upstands with two anti-sway braces each. The bombs have one side and the full core of the tail moulded as one part, to which the other side and two-part cylindrical tail are fitted, gluing four into each palette, then attaching them to the underside according to the diagram. After completion of the final rigging to the tail, a further diagram has a set of shapes printed that you can use to pattern your own masks for the two canopies if you don’t want to spend extra money on a masking set. I like these, but haven’t used them yet, and would suggest reducing the tape’s stickiness by applying it to a clean surface first, to avoid tearing the paper when you remove it. Markings There are three decal options on the sheet, with two in typical British camouflage with yellow undersides, although they have different demarcations, plus an all-silver aircraft that was posted overseas. From the box you can build one of the following: No.1 Elementary Flying Training School (1, EFTS), RAF, 1940 Malayan Volunteer Air Force, Singapore, winter of 1942 (probably) No.1 Elementary Flying Training School (1, EFTS), RAF, 1943 Decals are by ICM’s usual partner, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The inclusion of instrument dials is good news, as they’re just dials in isolation from the panel, so you can paint the panel yourself, rather than having to put up with sometimes unrealistic panel background that are often included in panel decals. Conclusion Another grand reboxing of this kit that has probably already made more than a few 1:32 modellers happy since 2020, as well as anyone that has flown in one when they were cutting their pilot’s teeth. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of
  2. After last year's zero builds, I've already got to the heady heights of three completed models so far this year and I'm determined to keep up the impetus, despite the other pressures and the almost constant need to sleep After doing a review for a number of aftermarket sets from Eduard for this kit, it tempted me to start another build. The seat especially was hugely tempting, as the detail on that is mind-blowing You can see the full review and more pics here for the seat, and a full review of the kit itself, here. I started nipping bits off the sprues Sunday (I think?) night while my mate @stringbag was over to talk about models, and I gradually built up a mass of sub-assemblies that are all going to be painted silver, as well as the cockpit, which will be "black". I've given them all a coat of black primer, which will be a shadow coat for the silver and dark grey later, and I also used it to check the seams on the tail booms, which have a long visible seam running top and bottom, so they need to be just right and invisible as possible. I've also glued together the wing tanks, which are three parts each, and I'll leave them to set up for at least 48 hours before I begin working on the seams. To be fair to the designers, they fit pretty well considering they're in three pieces, so well done Airfix The aftermarket I'll be using are the sets I've recently reviewed, like the seat above, the SPACE instrument panel, seatbelts, and I've also got the PE set on the way from Hannants, as I'm not happy with the oleo-scissor links on the gear legs, which is a minor weak-point of the kit. They're moulded as overlapping triangular blocks, and let down an otherwise good-looking kit. Sure, they won't be seen much once the stubby little thing is sitting on its legs and the bay doors are on, but I just couldn't leave them as-is. Here are a couple of pics of the various sub-assemblies I've made so far, covered in black primer: I'll be squirting some more MRP metallics on the majority of the parts shortly, after having some success with it on my Claude last month. Now, does anyone know where I've put my lead shot for the noseweight?
  3. Hi all, I'm in the process of painting the cockpit of my Airfix Vampire here, and am banging my head against a brick wall about the bottle that's to the side of the seat on the cockpit rear bulkhead. Is it a fire extinguisher as I originally thought, or an O2 bottle for Mr Pilot? Irresepectigardless, what colour would it be? I've been hunting the various walkarounds including our own, and haven't seen a pic anywhere Anyone help?
  4. Vampire F.3 Seat PRINT (648753 for Airfix) 1:48 Eduard Brassin PRINT The new Airfix De Havilland Vampire F.3 has been available since late 2021, and you can see our original review here. A number of Photo-Etch (PE) and 3D printed decal sets have been released already now, and that range is still growing. This new set provides a directly 3D Printed ejection seat for the Vampire in incredible detail. The set arrives in a flat Brassin pack with card insert keeping it and the instructions straight, and the parts themselves are safely protected inside a small clear plastic box to prevent crush damage and jostling. Inside the clear foil bag is the box containing the ejection seat, which has a small sticky label within to reduce the likelihood of excessive movement of the part. The detail is truly stunning, and there is more to come from the included Photo-Etch (PE) sheet of seatbelts, which attach to the rear cockpit bulkhead after opening up a small hole in the seat armour above the new seatback. The seat has a rolled quilted back cushion, and the adjustment mechanism is baked-in during the printing process. You will need to supply a piece of 0.6mm rod or wire to stretch behind the seat as part of the mounting/adjustment equipment, and once you have it installed in place of the kit seat, you can apply the nickel-plated pre-painted belts, complete with comfort pads under the buckles. You could argue that little will be seen within the gloomy black cockpit of a post-war British fighter jet, but if one thing will be visible, it’s the seat, and this one will be sure to impress. The photo above shows the two kit seats on the left and centre, with and without belts. There are no other parts for attachment to the kit seat, so no adjustment mechanism will be seen. The PRINT seat on the right is exactly as it comes off the printing block, after sanding back the underside where the block attached. The belts are added later, and if you were to fit the rather strangely-shaped pilot, you'd be hiding all that detail. The photo shows up some light layering, although that will disappear under a coat of paint or primer. The difference in detail is stunning, and the shape is much more authentic. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  5. Vampire F.3 Wheels (648741 for Airfix) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Kit wheels are generally in two halves, which means you have the resultant joins to deal with, possible mould-slip issues on single part wheels, and sometimes less than stellar detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the tread department. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seamline and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are usually a drop-in replacement. This set contains three resin wheels and a sheet of kabuki-tape masks. The main wheels are cut from their casting blocks at the bottom, where the slight weighting can be seen, while the tail-wheel has an anti-shimmy groove around the middle, and is trapped between the two halves of the kit yoke. Each wheel is a drop-in replacement for the kit parts, and as mentioned are supplied with pre-cut masks from the Kabuki-tape sheet (not pictured) inside the package to make the job even easier. The detail is exceptional as we’ve come to expect from Eduard’s wheels, and it has to be seen to be believed. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Mosquito Wheels (648746 for Tamiya) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Kit wheels are generally in two halves, which means you have the resultant joins to deal with, possible mould-slip issues on single part wheels, and sometimes less than stellar detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the tread department. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seamline and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are usually a drop-in replacement. This set contains three resin wheels, four outer hubs to give you a choice of two styles for the mains, a replacement tail-wheel strut in tougher white resin, and a sheet of kabuki-tape masks. The square-tread main wheels are cut from their casting blocks at the bottom, where the slight weighting can be seen, with the tail-wheel similarly prepared and slotted between the two legs of the new resin yoke. Each wheel is a drop-in replacement for the kit parts, and as mentioned are supplied with pre-cut masks from the Kabuki-tape sheet (not pictured) inside the package to make the job even easier. The detail is exceptional as we’ve come to expect from Eduard’s wheels, especially around the tread and maker’s details, and it has to be seen to be believed. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. Chipmunk T.10 Wheels (648699 for Airfix) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Kit wheels are generally in two halves, which means you have the resultant joins to deal with, possible mould-slip issues on single part wheels, and sometimes less than stellar detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the tread department. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seamline and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are usually a drop-in replacement. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE), small Brassin, and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. There are two wheels included in the package, each one on its own casting block, and there is also a small sheet of pre-cut kabuki tape masks, allowing you to cut the demarcation between tyres and hubs with little effort. Detail is excellent, and includes the raised Good Year name with winged boot and tyre stats on the sidewalls, a circumferential tread on the contact patch, and hub detail in the centre. The tyres have a very slight sag to simulate the weight of the aircraft on them, and they are joined to the casting block there, so clean-up is simple and you don’t risk damaging the detail. Once liberated from their block, they are a straight-forward drop-in replacement. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  8. DH Chipmunk T.10 Main Wheels (Q48397 for Airfix) 1:48 CMK by Special Hobby Kit wheels are generally in two halves, which means you have the resultant joins to deal with, possible mould-slip issues on single part wheels, and sometimes less than stellar detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the tread department. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seamline and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are usually a drop-in replacement. This set from CMK’s Quick & Easy line is exactly that, and arrives in a flat-pack plastic bag with header card and instructions stapled to it, holding the two replacement resin wheels on one casting block. Detail is exceptional, and includes the raised manufacturer name and tyre stats on the sidewalls, a circumferential tread on the contact patch, and hub detail in the centre, including brakes on the inner side. The tyres have a slight sag to imply the weight of the aircraft on them, and they are joined to the casting block there, so clean-up is simple and you don’t risk damaging the detail. Once liberated from their block, they are a drop-in replacement. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. Hello there! I would like to present you freshly finished kit - DH.80 Puss Moth from the Czech manufacturer Avimodels. The build took about three weeks and the whole progress is documented here: Everything was said in this thread, but I would like to just add a few things. I hope that some decal manufacturers will produce extra decal sheet with record breaking machines. If so, you have to beware of the differences on each of the aircraft (and there were loads of differences!). If you want to build an aircraft with the larger wheel diameter, you have to scratch it, or use a spare pair. Also the engine is not provided and the doors are not scribed. But all the way round the kit is well constructed and the clear parts fits together really well (for a short-run kit!). It was a pleasure to build this kit and I hope it will be in stock in the UK soon. The price is quite high, but the type is a must have! Thank you for looking. And now the details: And in flight
  10. de Havilland Sea Vixen FAW.2 1/72 Revell (03866) The DeHavilland Sea Vixen was a twin boomed fight designed for use by the Fleet Air Arm in the 1960’s. It was the first British twin seat aircraft that could achieve supersonic speed, although not in level flight. While it was a great improvement over the previous FAA aircraft, it could be difficult to handle and many were lost in crashes during its operational history. The Royal Navy Historic Flight current has the only flight worthy example, although this too had an accident not long ago where its hydraulic system failed and it had to be landed on its belly at RNAS Yeovilton. This caused considerable damage to the underside of the fuselage, and it is now highly unlikely to fly again. The Kit Here Revell have reboxed the Cyberhobby kit from 2013, which was a re-issue of their FAW.1 kit with new parts for the FAW.2. This is released under their "British Legends" box art. the kit arrives on three major spures, two smaller sprues, and two clear sprues. the parts are very well moulded with fine recessed panel lines, the slide moulded single part tailplanes looking very good indeed. There is the option to fold the wings included in the kit. Underwing stores include a pair of Red Top missiles, 2" Rocket pods and fuel tanks. Both styles of canopy for the radar operators station are included in the kit. Construction starts with the cockpit. There are single part seats for the the pilot and the radar operator. Consoles and side consoles are added along with the instrument panels. Details here are provided as decals. Once the cockpit is complete the sub-assemblies for the intakes and exhausts are made up. Now we turn to the large main body mouldings. Holes must be drilled for the wing pylons, once this is done the wheel wells and additional intake parts are added. The intakes and exhaust, and cockpit can then be added in. The radar operators side window is then placed in the upper moulding before the two are joined. At the rear of the top body there is a housing for the emergency RAT which can be modelled deployed, or this area can be closed up as the modeller wants. At the front the nose cone goes on, and at the rear the exhaust nib follows. The modeller must now decide whether they want to fold the wings or not as different parts are used for this on the main body. To the rear the tail and its supporting booms are made up and added on. The wings can then be assembled as needed. Here separate flaps are provided as single parts for the open wing, or two part for the folded wing. There is detail in the wells but no option on the instructions to show them extended. If building the wing down the outers can now be added in place. Following this the tail booms go on with the enlarged fuel tank parts going on over the wings. Moving to the underside of the aircraft the large central air brake is added, this can be either in the open or closed position. If modelling the aircraft in flight all the gear doors can be closed up (though its worth mentioning no pilots are provided in the kit). If modelling the gear down then the gear legs and wheels can be built up and added. Moving to the rear the large arrestor hook assembly is built up and added, again this can be raised or lowered. The canopies are added at this stage along with the wing mounted re-fueling probe and pitot tube. The prominent wing feces are also added at this stage. Underwing pylons ad armaments can be added as required. If you were modelling your aircraft with folded wings the outers can now be added with the stays to hold them up. Decals Decals are printed in Italy by Zanetti and should pose no problems. 2 options are included; XJ609 - 890 Sqn Fleet Air Arm, RNAS Yeovilton 1971 XJ578 - 899 Sqn Fleet Air Arm, HMS Eagle, 1970 Conclusion This is a well thought out and executed kit of the Sea Vixen FAW.2. Its great to see it re-released by Revell as its now readily available with a good quality decal sheet, though with fewer options than the original. Highly recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  11. AZ model is to release a new tool family of 1/72nd de Havilland DH.98 Mosquito. Among others the NF.30 variant. Source: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235010228-kpaz-central-discussion-questions-answers/&do=findComment&comment=2686107 First announcement was made with a NF.19 picture V.P.
  12. I bought this kit few days ago and after a short viewing I decided to start immediately. There are lots of imperfections in this kit at first sight such as missing doors, no instrument dials at all, air intake is sealed and both types of tires are wrong for the markings included in the kit. That's why I want this kit to be over before it grounds forever in my stash. I started with wings (they are quite nicely featured) and then with other major parts. Next step will be interior enhancements and creating the first engine cylider into the air intake. I am not sure about the marking yet, but the Czechoslovak Baťa company is my favorite so far (but it needs a pair of new wheels). At first I wanted to build the famous G-ABXY "The Hearts Content" but after a short realisation I declined it. There were just too many differences on this record machine that will put this build to another level but all I want now is just a calm pleasant build only with necessary enhances. So there we go, first images: Windows:
  13. Trumpeter is to release in 2017-2018 a new tool 1/48th de Havilland DH.110 Sea Vixen FAW.2 - ref. 05808 Source: https://www.facebook.com/TrumpeterModel/photos/pcb.718760784949184/718760511615878/?type=3&theater V.P.
  14. DH.82 Tiger Moth Resin Updates (for Airfix) 1:48 CMK by Special Hobby Airfix’s new kit of the Tiger Moth in 1:48 has proved very popular, selling out at Airfix soon after release, but still available from their distributers. Aftermarket was inevitable, and here is a large handful from CMK, Special Hobby’s resin division. As usual with CMK's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar clear vacformed box that has a hanger cut-out, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. Decals and Photo-Etch (PE) when included are separated from the resin parts by a clear piece of acetate to prevent scratching and damage during transit. Cockpit Correction Set (4407) This comprehensive set requires no adaptation of the kit and contains 32 resin parts, plus a set of PE parts and decals for the instrument panel. A colour diagram shows the correct painting and decaling of the instrument panels, then the resin cockpit floor is detailed with resin and PE parts, plus a central raised section and rudder pedals, plus crew seats with belts. The sidewalls are similarly detailed with more parts, and wire from your own stock is added according to instructions, after which the new cockpit can be put into the fuselage and finished off with the protective leather bumpers at the front of the instructor and student’s coamings. Painting guidance is shown in colour throughout the instructions using colour names rather than numbers from a specific brand. Control Surfaces (4408) This set of fifteen resin parts includes all the flying surfaces, requiring only the ailerons to be removed from the wings with a razor saw, to be replaced by the resin parts and the small resin actuators. The tail is a drop-in replacement with separate fins, elevators and ridder parts, plus tiny triangular attachment arms for the actuators on each surface. Luggage Box (4409) Requiring a cut-out of the door on the fuselage, this three-part set includes a bay that extends the full width of the fuselage, a soft bag, and a replacement door for the area cut away. You will need to check your references for the correct colour for the bay, as there are no call-outs in the instructions. Exterior Set (4410) This four-part set includes a new highly detailed top cowling, plus a ribbed fuel tank with some exquisite detail, filler cap and vent, all of which is a straight forward drop-in replacement improvement to realism. Main Wheels & Tail Skid (4411) The kit wheels are each single parts, but have a mould seam to clean up, which is where these resin wheels come in, as well as offering a choice of two styles of hub on the inner face, and three on the outer. They’re a drop-in replacements, as is the rear skid that is moulded in a tougher black resin to resist breakage or bending over time. Main Wheels & Tail Wheel (4413) The kit wheels are each single parts, but have a mould seam to clean up, which is where these resin wheels come in, as well as offering a choice of two styles of hub on the inner face, and three on the outer. They’re a drop-in replacement, as is the tiny rear wheel that is moulded in a tougher black resin to resist breakage or bending over time. Cockpit Entry Hatches (4412) These are replacement parts for the kit hatches, which although they are reasonably thin for styrene moulding, they appear quite clumsy and thick by comparison to these wafer-thin resin ones. There are four hatches in total, all attached tenuously to their pour blocks, facilitating easy removal with a sharp blade. They’re drop-in replacements, so once removed and cleaned up, there’s nothing more to it. Conclusion You can pick and choose the areas of interest that you want to detail to suit your needs, budget and skillset. As you can see, the detail is sublime. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  15. After doing two consecutive builds ti finish on time before a competition where both models were rushed to the finish line I've had enough of deadlines for a while. From now on, or rather until august atleast I will not bother with time schedules but just doing things whenever I feel like it, in any order and on any kit. But, in order to reduce the stash a little I will off course start another kit, instead of carry on with another one at full focus. Not to worry, the Sea vixen WILL get a little more love before soon. Anyway, what do we have here then? Well, a Tamiya Mossie from the 90:s is not the most difficult of kits, so I need to complicate things a little bit more. Hence, a light load of aftermarket candy: Turned gun barrels, some resin for the cockpit (more about that later) and some rather tasty decals from Aviaeology. Only thing missing is off course some quickboost exhausts, but that will come in due time. 333Sqn seems to have been a rather busy bunch, venturing up and down the Norwegian coast looking for prey for the rest of the Banff Strike Wing to obliterate. I have not yet decided which one to do, but I have in my mind a dirty, beaten up old warhorse in Extra Dark Sea grey over Sky, with suitable amount of repaint here and there. It's oh so clear in my mind, i just need to make that happen in the meatspace... The Tamiya plastic sure is fine though! Ok, where to start then? Digging for references might be a good idea, and then prepare the cockpit for the resin pieces I guess. But for now, I need to head off to the office instead and do work. Too bad
  16. Another day, another lockdown completion! Not quite; I’d started this model some months ago, but only painted parts on sprue and partly assembled the cockpit. I picked it up again as the time filler between paint coats on the Tsu-Chang (see other RFI). Its an interesting contrast to the Taiwanese jet given both were designed 50 years apart for effectively the same job! As you can see it’s the civilian boxing, though the strakes show that G-ACDC is ex-wartime RAF (though built as a civilian and later called to the colours). Painted in Tamiya acrylics, probably the red should have a tinge more maroon. I went with red DH “hubcaps”, though Airfix instructions say silver – I think silver are the bare wheels in some photos of Delta Charlie. Just to show how small it is: It’s a nice kit that generally goes together okay. The fit of the extra strakes could have been done better (by me) so that less filler was required. Rigging was metallic embroidery thread (a suggestion somewhere on the net), which is probably overscale but gives a good effect. The only real issue is keeping everything tightened correctly, pulling a line taut can result in another distant one slackening off (the same issue would be true for fishing line or invisible thread options). In the two mornings since it was rigged its appeared different lines are tight so maybe picking up some atmospherics? To my eyes there’s possibly a slightly greater stagger on one side than the other, whether it started crooked or was induced by the rigging is a bit late to worry about now. This is a hairy Tiger Moth: Unfortunately robust clean up of such a delicate and mostly painted model is difficult; added to which the silver colour highlights any flaws so there are some defects where the wires were trimmed and made good. Nevertheless it was a good primer in small scale biplane construction, there’s plenty more in the stash…unfortunately most are RAF or USN interwar types so there’s a lot of rigging vs silver paint rectification in my future. Cheers Will
  17. LEMkits is studying the idea of a 1/32nd de Havilland Vampire FB.Mk.5 resin kit. To be followed Source: https://www.facebook.com/andriy.lemkitscom/posts/2231758820417172 V.P.
  18. I am looking at buying a model of a de Havilland Comet & would very much appreciate some advice as to which one to choose. From what I can make out, the options in 1:144 are the old Airfix 4B, Amodel 4B or 4C, and the F-RSIN Comet 1, whereas in 1:72, there is Mach 2's 4B. I have read individual reviews of each, and all clearly have their good (& not so good) features - e.g. Airfix has raised panel lines but seems to fit ok (at least for its age!), whereas Amodel has engraved lines but reviews suggest fit isn't great. However, I have not been able to find any direct comparison reviews between the 1:144 ones or build reviews of the Mach 2. I do not mind whether it is a Comet 1, or a Comet 4 - what I am after is a decent representation of a Comet, and one that is not going to take (too) much work to build, to display. With that in mind, which would be the best one to go for?
  19. Well, since we got 2 more weeks on this great Classic GB, I feel safe to commit to another build to really keep pushing the stats through the roof. Another of the Trailblazers series not already covered - the D.H.88 Comet Racer. Note the colour chart only has one colour specified - Red! Since the plastic is already this colour, I will have little to do. I'll retain the kit colour as far as possible and just do a bit of detail painting as required. I've never built this kit or aircraft before so it will be interesting. First off, I can see that the seated pilots are missing but two 'larger than life' standing figures have been provided. ??
  20. This was my entry to the Tiger Moth GB back in the summer of 2015. I didn't manage to finish it in the time frame of the GB and it has been untouched since. I'll try to finish it now. Thanks for looking. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Hello, As if I didn't have enough ongoing builds, I decided to participate in this GB. I will be building Airfix's 1/72 Tiger Moth in RAF Flight Training School colours, 1940. Here are the kit, sprues and decals: IMAG2533 Here's the camouflage scheme: IMAG2535 The kit is nicely detailed out of the box but I will add Eduard's PE fret to the build. I have this on order with my LHS and it should arrive in mid-August. Until then I won't be doing much on the kit, if at all. The aircraft will be rigged, of course. It will be done with elastic fishing line glued with CA. That's all for now. Thanks for looking. Jaime
  21. Manufacturer: Avi Models Subject: D.H.83 Fox Moth Scale: 1/72 Paints Used: Tamiya XF83, XF24, XF85, MRP white, Mr Color 8 Details: Uschi Super Fine Rigging Thread, Albion Alloys 0.5 Tubing, Custom Masks. This is a new release of the D.H.83 Fox Moth and it is a typical short run kit. It was tricky in places but most of the issues came from me rushing the build a little, I messed up the decals on one side so had to cut a mask to fix that, I’ve filmed this build for my channel on YouTube so that is why there is a lack on in progress shots. I have depicted the aircraft as photographed during the Spanish Civil War and in use by the Nationalists, this aircraft was on the Republican side initially but after capture it was repainted as is seen, I had to modify a few things, most notably blanking off the exhaust outlet and putting in a few bits of meta tubing to simulate the modified exhaust of the actual aircraft. https://youtu.be/eWfsn31OGW4
  22. Amodel is to release in 2016 a 1/72nd de Havilland D.H.104 Dove kit - ref.72334 Source: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234997175-amodel-new-172nd-1144th-kits-in-2016-update/ V.P.
  23. Hi, For my next build I was wondering, what I should build. I eventually decided on a tiger moth. What are some good kits in 1:48th and 1:72 scale for the tiger moth?
  24. A build from 2017: The De Havilland D.H.53 Humming-bird represents the concept of light plane. It was contemporary to the Parnall Pixie and a small number of them were sold to particulars and the RAF. Power plants varied, and the first model had a Douglas of 750cc. According to information found on the Net, one plane ended up in Chile, two in Australia and one in Canada. The plane had a span of 30"1' (9.17 meters) with almost constant chord, but differential airfoil, which varied in thickness along the span. The usual scratchbuilding techniques you may have seen in my posts were employed, to ensure a satisfying measure of accuracy and a bonafide reproduction. A resin prop cast by Matías Hagen (thanks Matías!) from Argentina was used, with resin wheels from the spares bin and adapted resin cylinders again from Matías. Care must be exercised in replicating the particular change in airfoil section, thin at the root and wingtip and thick in the middle, a detail often obviated by modelers. A model of the Parnall Pixie, a plane -as said above- designed under the same concept and flown contemporarily to the D.H.53, is being built in parallel. Originally it even had the same Douglas 750cc engine. A number of different decorations can be seen in photos, many of them most likely in aluminium dope, sometimes with the fuselage in a darker color, and in some photos it's shown with what seems wings of clear doped linen, with certain translucency. I selected a subject (G-EBHZ) based on a very good photo I found on the Net, that had the same scheme as the restored machine that used to fly in England (G-EBHX), until unfortunately had a fatal crash in 2012. The machine chosen, G-EBHZ, changed schemes, and I was fortunate enough to find on the Net photos of them. One is an all-aluminium scheme with the logo of the Seven Aeroplane Club, an AC with seven feathers (thanks, Sönke). Another is blue and silver, like as said the machine restored. Be sure that you get the position of the inverted wing struts and the ailerons right. The ailerons started inside of where the struts attach (i.e. closer to the wing root). Also pay attention to the wing struts, configured as a V, and wrongly depicted in some plans as the aft member being parallel to the TE, when in reality both struts converge at an angle (look at photos on the Net, easily found). I commissioned the decals from Arctic Decals (thanks, Mika!) Bibliography: DeHavilland Aircraft since 1909 (A.J. Jackson) N.A.C.A. Technical Memorandum No. 261 The Light Plane since 1909 - J. Underwood The Light Plane Meeting at Lympne, Flight Magazine, Oct 18th 1923
  25. Hello I'd like to make a civilan french Hornet Moth so i'd like to know what could be the interior color ? I can imagine that it was a customer choice but me be one of you know what was the colours proposed by De Havilland ? Light grey as for the Tiger moth (but in this case what was the leather seat color ?), red as we see on restored Moth ? I am perplex Thanks a lot for your help Best regards Matt
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