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  1. I am posting these pictures following a request for them and information on the build in the WW1 aircraft section of this site. I am also including pictures of the scratch built Beardmore engine as this has featured as part of the discussion. There is a full build log for this model on Airfix Tribute Forum under conversion corner, and ww1aircraftmodels.com in the under construction section if anyone is interested. I have also included some notes on the type for those modellers who are not familiar with this aircraft. In the build logs referred to I used wings from the old Veeday BE 2c. This kit is a rare bird these days and anyway Airfix have now produced a first class model of this type and I would recommend it as the starting point for this conversion as the outer wing panels of the FE 2b and the BE 2c were the same. However the FE 2b had a greater span so I would either make new centre panels from card (as on my original conversion), or use pieces cut from a second Airfix BE 2c kit. The Lewis machine gun, wheels, struts and propellor could all be taken from the Aifix kit. The remaining parts would have to be scratch built as per the build log, unless that is you can find an Aeroclub Beardmore engine - another rare item these days. The FE 2b was designed and built at the Royal Aircraft Factory in 1915 in response to a request from the War Office for a "gun carrier" for armed reconniassance, escort and pursuit. The prototype flew in March 1915 buty problems in supplying engines meant that the first order for 12 machines was not completed until the autumn of that year. Later the type was only supplied slowly because of the shortage of engines. However it quickly proved to be superior to the Fokker monoplanes that were causing heavy casualties among the BE 2c reconnaissance squadrons, and the type helped to achieve air superiority (with the DH 2 and Nieuport 11) for the Allies during the summer of 1916. Even after the introduction of the early Albatros fighters in September 1916 the type could hold its own in the hands of a good crew: von Richtofen was famously hit by a bullet from his own side when he was involved in a dogfight with these machines, and German pilots Schaefer and Ulmer were shot down by gunners in this type. The problem for the RFC was that by 1917 the type was obsolete but was kept in service as an escort because there were no suitable replacements. After it had been withdrawn from daylight sorties it continued to be used as a night bomber until the end of the war. Early FE 2b's had a complicated oleo tricycle undercarriage: this was modified in the filed to a simpler V and later replaced on production machines by an even simpler V. The type was deployed against Zeppelins in the UK but its slow rate of climb and poor ceiling made it unsuitable in this role. In all over 2000 of the type were built and it served in a wide variety of roles. It has had a bad press in the past from those who looked at it from the comfort of armchairs and noted the high losses suffered in 1917 when the type should have been withdrawn. In reality it was a good design for its time being strong, relatively easy to fly, and able to compete well against contemporary types: its rapid obsolescence reflected the pressures of war, not the deficiencies of the design itself or the crews who operated it. I built the engine using card, rod and stretched sprue and based it on drawings in DataFile No 147 and photographs of the engine from Viling's WNW build on this site and the WNW website. I apologise for the small images but hopefully they will be useful to others. This is the engine from the right side: This is the engine from the left side: These photos show the engine installed in the nacelle before I put the top wing on to the model. All markings except the serial were hand painted and the model is rigged with 40 SWG rolled copper wire. It represents an early machine operated by 11 Squadron RFC at Isel-le-Hameau in September 1916. P
  2. Hi Folks Just been having a look at an Airfix Seafire FR.46/47 kit I picked up second hand and wondered whether I could build it as a Mk.22 Spitfire. The kit seems to have the bits (windscreen, Rotol prop and Rudder base), but is there anything else I should look out for (other than the Griffon nose bumps, which I would have replaced anyway)? Cheers Kev
  3. OK, this is is my first foray into the odd world of airliner modellng, so be gentle! This year I've been introducing my lovely girlfriend Louise to aviation history, bit by bit. Among other things we've been to Duxford for a look round, and enjoyed a couple of Shuttleworth shows and Flying Legends together. ] Anyhow, for no reason that I can determine, the two aircraft she has most taken to, out of all the things we've seen, are the DH Comet and the Fieseler Storch. She's also shown quite a bit of interest in my modelling, so I bought her the Academy Storch for her birthday (very much still a WIP) and agreed to make her a Comet for Christmas! So here's the result. From the start I wanted to convert my 1:144 Airfix kit into a Comet 4 of BOAC, as well as improve the detailing. Changes to the base kit are was follows: Cut 1.99 scale metres (two windows) from the fuselage length-this was tricky as the fuselage tapers subtly outward towards the nose! Cut off the wingtips, and added new carved from scrap plastic to reach correct wingspan for longer-winged Comet 4. Wing pinion tanks from 1:72nd Vampire T.11 drop tanks (they're an amazingly good match) Tank fillet fairings from scrap resin and filler Re-profiled fin tip Detailed exhaust cans Added rudimentary cockpit including floor, instrument panel, seats and yokes. Cut out near-nonexistent nosehweel bay, built new to appropriate depth with plasticard, detailed with more plasticard. Thinned out nose and main u/c doors and added extra struts to legs Replaced cockpit glazing with individual windows from CD case Cut out underside thrust reversers and various vents etc. Lined intakes and added rudimentary compressor faces. Drilled out auxiliary intakes between main ones Drilled out landing lights outboard of intakes and replaced with shaped clear sprue Plasticard aerials, intake scoops, anti-collision beacons added to added to fusleage and centre section Plasticard fuel dump pipes added to wings and tanks, hinge actuators added to aileron trim tabs, and wing fenclets added to leading edge. Scribed majority of panel lines, filled and re-scribed double joints between control surfaces The model is shown below before painting with Halfords Appliance White and Hunbrol Metalcote rattle-cans. I used the S&M sheet for Comet 4 to represent G-ADPC, one of the two aircraft which flew the first scheduled transatlantic jet service in 1958. The decals were of very good quality but rather over-sized, for example the tailfin decal was much too big, and the fuselage stripe needed cutting down to fit the kit windows better. The bit where the stripes widen and join around the nose was a nightmare, especially as I had to cut around the cockpit windows. In the end I mixed paint to as close a match as possible for BOAC blue, and had to touch up! It doesn't notice too badly under a coat of gloss varnish though. Hope you like the results! Horrible flash shot shows up all sorts of nightmares, but it's the only way to see the intakes properly: U/C bay. Just noticed the ruddy stripe isn't central. Grrrrr! Happy customer.
  4. Hello all! A few months back I finished Andrew Salmon's excellent book "To The Last Round" which is a superb account of the exploits of the British 29th Brigade during the Korean War and, being inspired, set my mind to producing a diorama based around a 1/35 centurion mk3 demonstrating it's much valued ability to climb gradients that most other UN vehicles during the conflict could not. Since then I have acquired AFV clubs Cent. mk5 with dozer but have hit a snag in regards to a suitable conversion set to backdate it to the mk3 standard as it would've appeared in Korea (re-positioned loaders hatch, rear escape hatch, re-positioned loaders periscope+bomb thrower etc). After looking through old threads and articles written by others looking to take on this kind of project on this site and elsewhere, by far the most recommended method seems to be using an aftermarket conversion set to get the desired result . But in this day and age those sets (Lionmarc's mk3 turret, Castoffs mk3 set, Inside the Armour's set etc.) seem to be either discontinued or not available anymore! So unless I'm missing something (and i'd love to be proved wrong! is there anything I've missed or is there anyone who knows of something in the pipeline?) the only option to build a 1/35 mk3 is to either work with AFV club's mk5 and add/remove bits or acquire Tamiya's or Modelcraft's Mk3 and pinch the turret off that. So has anyone had any success with either of those aforementioned methods? Any tips or advice for those attempting the same thing? I'm nervous about having to attempt such a conversion for fear of bu**ering a nice kit or shelling out for a donor kit if their are better options out there. Cheers, Poacher PS: If anyone does happen to have any of those elusive conversion kits lying around in the stash and wouldn't miss it, please feel free to shoot me a PM - I've a few kits that are looking for a good home
  5. I won't go into detail with regards to the build as it's all in the WIP pages, except to say that this is a conversion from the Tamiya Cromwell using new road wheels, main gun and other bits and pieces. I made the base from a piece of plywood and added a road surface and some paving slabs along with a lamppost taken from an Airfix OO/HO scale kit. I wanted to depict the tank as it appears in the well known photo which was taken in Spring 1944 down on the south coast somewhere. The figures came from the excellent white metal series by Dartmoor Military Models. They have blue/black berets with red backing to the badges to show that although Royal Marines, they are not commando trained. Most came from armoured regiments. John. The mess tin and towel were put there to cover up a bad join that I'd omitted to sort out before painting!
  6. After seeing Steve's B747-8F I grabbed one of my older Revell B747s from the stash and started chopping. Mine will be a -400F and I will fix some issues with the kit. not worrying about wing AOA or nose plan shape. I will fix the nose hump and reshape the cockpit roof though. Some chopping, and gluing, I managed to miscalculate the cuts and need to make some extras, always the case for me. But I think I have the hump sorted now. I have the Flying Colours decal sheet and some Braz PW4000s from a previous failed attempt during Airliner GB II for this build. Since these pictures were taken I have started filling the seam work on the cuts and filled the cabin windows with super glue. I will work on this one as time permits concentrating on the other 2 as they are nearing completion.
  7. New in for Scale Modelworld at Telford - 1/72nd Mil-14PS conversion and 1/72nd Mil-14PS conversion for the Hobbyboss Mil-17 kits, http://www.neomega-resin.com/mil-8mtv-5--mil-17v5 http://www.neomega-resin.com/mil-14ps-haze-c Something to fill the gap in your collections!! Come and see us there!
  8. Inspired and stocked up from Telford, the next build is going to be the Blackbird Avro Manchester. I picked this up and a Lancaster Mk.VI conversion at the show. Based on my experience of the Lincoln build, I'm rather looking forwards to making a Manchester in the classic 3 tail guise, the resin looking very nice and a 'straight forwards' conversion compared to the last two Manchesters I've built. Andy (General Melchett) has lent me his excellent Manchester book by Robert Kirby. I've really got in to this book, not only for reference, but the mix of technical, historical and mission information contained, I really like reading about particular crew experiences more so than simple technical statistics. One thing that is becoming obvious from reading this book is the many evolutions that the Manchester undertook, not only due to serviceability problems, but also in camouflage schemes. I've not yet decided on a scheme, but based on reading so far, I think that pictures will be the best way of determining the correct configuration for a particular aircraft due to the fact that many modifications / camo changes were made at airfields. I'm open to ideas and inspiration for a particular scheme, but quite like one with a wavy high level demarcation scheme as a starting point. Whilst the Manchester had the obvious engine issues, I never knew until now what the specifics were. Plagues with hydraulic leaks including in cockpit high pressure releases due to 'paper' seals and general leaks due to poor joint design lacking olives, these issues were gradually addressed. The engines suffered from oil starvation around the big end bearings for a multitude of reasons including air contamination of the oil which in itself was caused by several root causes included poor seal types. Also inadequate bearing material which caused them to fail. To combat this, tougher, slightly smaller and grooved bearings were used to get more oil around the moving parts. Overheating due to these oil starvation issues is what caused many of the engine fires that resulted. Further issues with air turbulence coming from the mid upper turret when traversing resulted in flutter and complete fabric removal of the centre tail which led to the redesigned twin tail configuration that was standard on the Lancaster. Other minor issues plagued the Manchester including the radiator doors fouling the undercarriage if closed when retracting the gear. How this wasn't noticed at the design stage I don't know! Anyway, back to the build, well, I haven't started yet! I have however been able to take some pictures of the resin thanks to the fantastic new light that Andy talked me in to buying at the show (cheers mate). I can't recommend getting one of these enough, so I took a picture of the modelling space too with the light on! I forgot to take pictures of the clear resin, but it's great to finally get a proper shapes FN.4 turret for the Manchester. Should get started on the build this week Cheers
  9. SEM model has released three 1/72nd Savoia Marchetti S.73 resin conversion sets for Italeri S.M.81 kit (ref.1283). Source: http://www.semmodel.altervista.org/conversioni.html - ref.72804 - Savoia Marchetti S.M.73 Source: http://www.semmodel.altervista.org/s73.html - ref.72805 - Savoia Marchetti S.M.73 in ČSA service Source: http://www.semmodel.altervista.org/s73_csa.html - ref.72806 - Savoia Marchetti S.M.73 in SABENA service Source: http://www.semmodel.altervista.org/s73_sabena.html V.P.
  10. Are there any/many external differences between the A-10A Thunderbolt and the A-10C? I have an A-10A kit which I want to build as an A-10C. It is only 1:144 scale so I'm not looking for the minutiae but anything big and obvious when completed. Thanks Mike
  11. Source: https://www.facebook.com/wolfpackd/photos/a.554832374609972.1073741832.554818677944675/730275677065640/?type=1&theater "WP24001 1/24 Sea Harrier FA.2 Conversion set (for Airfix 1/24) We should restart to make this massive project again soon. We completed to make over 150 master parts for resin parts. But, We need more time for this project." V.P.
  12. in 1940 the British Government realised that they would need more ships to get essential materials from the United States than they had the shipyard capacity for, especially due to the continuous bombing of their shipyards from German bombers. As a consequence, a British delegation was formed to go to the U.S. with the sole intention of ordering ships that were being built in America. At that time though, the Americans were themselves busy building there own commercial merchant fleet (they had not yet been drawn into the war) and their yards were full building the 'standard types' of the C-1, C-2 and C-3 designs for private shipping companies. Whilst touring these sites and seeing their designs, the British contingent realised that these ships were large, welded types and they were taking too long to build to meet Britain's urgent needs. A representative in the delegation, from J.L Thompson Ltd of Sunderland, had taken a set of plans of their own design (which was to become Britain's Empire Ship type), of which was based on the s.s. Dorington Court of 1939. The plans were for the construction of a 10,000 deadweight ton (dwt.) standard, dry cargo steamship with a gross registered tonnage (grt.) of approximately 7,000 tons and providing a speed of 11 knots. The design was presented to the U.S. Maritime Commission with the aim of being able to produce a simpler vessel to build, as compared to the C1 -C-3 types, thereby reducing shipbuilding time in order to meet Britain's urgent requirement. As the months of 1940 progressed, the commission finally authorised the building of sixty vessels from this design and a new shipping syndicate, namely Six Services Incorporated, was set up which consisted of two shipbuilding companies - Todd Shipyard Inc. and Henry J. Kaiser Inc. with each yard delegated to produce thirty of these ships each. Slight modifications were made to the original design and they received the designation 'Ocean Type' with each vessel's name being preceded by the word Ocean; as in the first launched being Ocean Liberty. Late in 1941 everything changed with the attack on Pearl Harbor which brought the United States into the war. The need for more shipping, both merchant and naval, became as urgent for the U.S. as it did Britain and so, with a few more changes to that original British design, the famous Liberty Ship was conceived but that is a different story. This build, my third in the 'Taking a Liberty' series will be based on the genesis of all this; converting the Liberty Ship back, to the original design type for a 10,000dwt. standard dry cargo ship originally based on the s.s. Dorrington Court. This plan shows the original design that was taken to the U.S.A. and which formed the basis of the Ocean type (and subsequently the Forts, Parks and Heads that were built in Canada); however, on initial examination of this plan and that of the Liberty ship you will notice that appear not to have the same shape. The hull dimensions are the same but the upperworks were modified, mainly out of the need to keep building time down and, as such, the Liberty had a centralised midships accommodation block whereas the British vessels had split accommodation structures. Also, the Liberties had bulwarks along their sides whereas the original had chain rails. There were other minor differences which I hope will become evident during the converting of the Liberty Ship kit. The main work for me on this Liberty Ship kit will be to remove all the bulwarks along the sides, construct a new split-structure and modifiy the poop deck for a British merchantman in wartime. The initial stages of the build will be the same as my other project "Taking a Liberty No.1 - Royal Navy repair ship" therefore I will not take up space repeating those stages here. Well, that is my cunning plan and now I need to get some serious researching done in between continuing with the other two 'Taking a Liberty' WiP's! I hope to be able to post some images soon and also hope that you will find something different and interesting as this build progresses. Mike
  13. I have a few projects on the drawing board, all of which involve the Liberty Ships of WW2 fame. My intention is to build at least three different types/classes of ship using the Trumpeter 1:350 Liberty ship kit as a basis; (if I can find more kits in sales or at affordable bargain prices) and hopefully I will be able to produce some WIP's that will keep me occupied during the period from now and through the autumn and winter evenings. This thread is the first such project and I shall be using the Trumpeter 1:350 kit of the John W. Brown version to make a conversion build. The vessel to be built will be HMS Assistance [AR-17], a repair ship of the Xanthus sub-class of Liberty Ship types. Two were completed for the Royal Navy, one was an aircraft depot/repair ship and served in home waters whilst the other, HMS Diligence [AR-18], served in the Far East as a destroyer depot/repair ship. Their time in the Royal Navy was short-lived, due to the ending of hostilities, and they were returned to the U.S.A. in 1946. Although my intention is to build this kit as the aircraft depot/repair ship HMS Assistance, I may change my mind and build it as HMS Diligence; if I can find some research data on which destroyers might have been alongside her in late 1945 whilst in the Far East. This will be a waterline version and I hope to place the finished model in a sea setting diorama, but that is a long, long way in time to be concerned with at the moment. Starting with the base, I have glued a sturdy piece of brass rod in place. This is more to give the model some weight as I don't think these models suffer from any warping or bending up of the hull over time. Next element is to add some strengthening plates to the mid deck sections, before adding the bow and stern deck pieces. This area of the kit's deck is unsupported underneath and can bend and cause the joins to part when sanding and fitting parts etc. Virtually all of the deck fittings, especially the hatches, will need to be removed before any further work can be undertaken. The RN versions had much larger accommodation and working spaces than the standard cargo ships, plus they had additional armament and sponsons; most of which will need to be scratchbuilt for this conversion. The deck area has been cleaned down to the basic level and just needs all the holes and gaps filled before the actual build can start. I shall be using plans, which I found on-line, that I have resized to 1:350 so that they match the kit in size. This will help considerably in identifying each structure's required dimensions and their locations. Final thing for this post is to mask all the gaps and joins and then fill with thinned Green Putty. The thinner is cellulose thinners and is mixed with the Green Putty to act like a thick surfacer which I can paint on using a standard modelling paint brush. The holes in the deck have been plugged with white styrene rod and cut flush to the deck. When the putty has completely dried, I shall remove the tape and then get down to sanding everything smooth with wet and dry. Hopefully in the next session I will be able to start making up some of the structures. cheers Mike
  14. After the Cheetah E ( http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234987583-148-atlas-cheetah-e-resin-conversion-set-for-kinetics-kfir-by-scaleworx-released-cheetah-c-conversion-in-design/ ) Scaleworx is working on a 1/48th Atlas Cheetah C resin conversion set for Kinetic's Kfir C2/7 kit - ref. SW48-12 Source: https://www.facebook.com/scaleworx/photos/pcb.479693032230043/479692868896726/?type=3&theater V.P.
  15. I have managed to acquire another Liberty ship kit and therefore can start with my second conversion project; this one will be a merchant cargo ship. With the ending of hostilities in 1945 most of the surviving Liberty ships were returned to the United States. Some of these ships were used to return military personnel from the theatres of operation back to their homelands; whilst other vessels were utilised to repatriate PoW's back to their own countries. The remaining vessels were either utilised by American shipping companies or laid up in case of requirements for re-activation at any point in the future; although their weapons were dismounted. Meanwhile, nations across the world had suffered terrible losses of shipping and personnel during the war and those ship owning companies had urgent needs to replace their vessels in order to re-start the work of rebuilding and recovery. Building new ships could take years, plus the costs would run into millions of pounds/dollars which, in those austere times of the immediate postwar period, was not readily available therefore other means were urgently needed to help overcome this shortfall. As such, the U.S. Government; having been regularly petitioned by all of the allied nations to sell off surplus stock, authorised the release for sale to foreign nations some of the laid up tonnage for commercial use. The majority of the vessels released for sale were Liberty Ships and this offer was immediately taken up by the allied countries such as Great Britain, Greece, Norway, France and even Italy as a quick and cheaper means of getting the movement of essential products around the globe. Following the initial allowance to those countries mentioned, further sales were later authorised to Belgium, Netherlands and China. Of the 2,710 Liberty Ships that were built during the war, 127 were sold postwar to Great Britain (some of these were already under British management through original lend-lease agreements) with one such vessel being bought by T. & J. Harrison and Company Ltd, Liverpool and which they named Successor. This vessel will be the subject of my conversion project and I shall use the Trumpeter 1:350 scale Jeremiah O'Brien as the base kit. portion of a painting of s.s. Successor by Colin Verity The initial stages of the build are identical to my other project "Taking a Liberty No.1 - Royal Navy repair ship" therefore I will not take up space repeating those stages here. What is different though is that the hatches will remain in place and some of them will be opened, as they would be for loading and unloading. This causes a change to the normal assembly process of the kit in that Liberty ships had additional holds in compartments just below decks; these decks were commonly known as 'tween decks. The opening of the hatches on the main deck means that the 'tween decks will be exposed below and therefore I shall need to scratchbuild this area from styrene sheet. These ships had welded hulls which left long seam lines along the length of the hull. I have tried to emulate this by scribing some lines along the kit sides. I have used Dymo-type tape along the proposed area that I wish to scribe here. The hatch covers have been opened up on the main deck pieces, plus the 'tween decks structures have been cut, including three of the four visible hatchways being opened. Here, the 'tween decks have been temporarily fitted in place, and the main deck attached, to check for fit and alignment of the hatchways. I need to prime and paint the internals of the model before I can proceed any further, hopefully I shall be able to do this soon and have more to show over the weekend. Thanks for looking. Mike
  16. Hi all, Could any owners of the Airfix Annual No.6 tell me the quality + detail of the Highball conversion in it, since I don't really want to be spending £30+postage plus the kit price, for the PD or Blackbird conversion. I am guessing that the conversion will be a traditional block of balsa style thing, but since it would have been released only a couple of years after the 30 year rule, I'm a bit worried about accuracy. Maybe Neil might consider doing a limited re-run of his brilliant conversion set, since the demand seems to be so high? Thanks in advance, Seabo14
  17. NeOmega

    New photo album

    Hi! Sorry for not posting for ages, I lost my login details like an idiot! Anyhow - we have a Customer Model Album on out Facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/neomegaresin/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1303897316304990 If you have any models with NeOmega, Vector or Komplekt Zip sets in, then we'd love to see them!
  18. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Ultracast coming to Sovereign Hobbies

    We are very happy to announce that we will be stocking Ultracast products at Sovereign Hobbies. The first order is due to land in a couple of weeks.
  19. Spin Models has just released a 1/48th RAF Be.9c Pulpit resin conversion set for the Roden Be.2 kit - ref. K807 Source: http://www.aviationmegastore.com/raf-be9c-pulpit-conversion-roden-be2-k807-spin-models-spin-c48007-aircraft-modelling-conversion/product/?action=prodinfo&art=138142 Box art V.P.
  20. Ever since making the Royal Navy covert ops submarine HMS Spartan - I'm really getting into these shadowy subs from the Cold War. My next conversion is the USS Seawolf SSN-575 - the second nuclear boat based on the USS Nautilus design. After serving for a few years, she was stretched by 52 feet for 'Special Projects' work - with side thrusters for delicate maneouvering. I'm using TWO Mikro-Mir Nautilus kits to stretch the hull - using these artists impressions I found on the internet.... Here, I've cut the two starboard hull halves into front and rear sections ready for joining. I've also moved the anchor recess further forward and drilled the holes for the side thrusters.... It isn't really banana shaped - it isn't glued yet and the camera lens distorts it a bit. I've also been researching (trawling the internet, saving photos) the USS Parche - a Sturgeon Class boat stretched by 100 ft for naughty work. Should be easy enough to model using two Mikro-Mir Sturgeons. Ken
  21. Scaleworx has just released a 1/72nd Atlas Super Cheetah D resin conversion set for Italeri Kfir C.2/C.7 kit - ref.SW72-19 Sources: https://www.facebook.com/scaleworx/photos/a.235132476686101.1073741852.212054182327264/467812040084809/?type=3&theater https://www.facebook.com/scaleworx/photos/a.235132476686101.1073741852.212054182327264/467849283414418/?type=3&theater V.P.
  22. Kiwi Resin is to release soon a 1/48th MD Helicopters MD.520N NOTAR resin conversion set Source: http://www.kiwiresin.com/#!product/prd1/3881135941/1-48-md520n-notar-conversion-coming-soon V.P.
  23. Adam Bromiley

    Best 1/48 A10 Warthog kit?

    Hey, I'm new to these forums I was looking online for an A10 'Hog' (1/48) to add to my stash, but came across five or so different models. They all seemed to have their good and bads (e.g. no detail; no access panels; bad decals etc...). I have no idea which one to get. Money is not an issue, and I want to model it being heavily maintained, therefore, I want as many access panels as possible. If the engine's cowling can be opened, then a detailed engine would be nice. I also want a detailed cockpit. I don't care what the decals are like because I will probably get aftermarket ones. Please can any of you give your opinion on which model is best. Please link any detail sets (e.g. engine or cockpit) for one in your answer. Thanks )
  24. Grand models (http://www.grandmodels.gr/ & https://www.facebook.com/grandmodels.gr ) is to release soon a 1/72nd Convair TF-102 Delta Dagger resin conversion set for Meng kit. Source: https://www.facebook.com/modellingnews.gr/photos/pcb.693583827408683/693582454075487/?type=3&theater https://www.facebook.com/modellingnews.gr/posts/690454244388308 V.P.
  25. Hi, I had Airfix FB Mk XVIII made about 20 years ago I wanted to add to collection another Mosquito, which will be different as much as possible from the previous one. It was about 5 year ago. My choice was bomber/recce machine with glazed nose. However I wanted to do another difference - longer engines. If one would like to build a model of DH Mosquito with longer Merlin engines - I do not remeber if there any other option then old Matchbox kit. I belive that there is no other option, still. So I bought Tamiya kit and Pavla conversion kit which consist of two engines and set of exhaust pipes all made of resin. When I started to work on this - I was shocked - the Pavla engines were of the same lenght as short engines of Tamiya! I do not know the reason for such huge mistake. Anyway, I decided to use those engines, although I move them forward as I remeber 3 or 4 mm (I had nice drawings so it was under control), I cut off coolers which are below engines, replaced them and also moved position of exhaust pipes. I have used original Tamiya exhaust pipes since the one from Pavla were proportionally to short. All together there was some body putty and sanding needed. I changed the propellers, I belive, also. She is wearing markings of US 8th Army from UK, late 1944-45. Airplane was used for photo recconesance and some weather recce flights. And a family photo: Regards Jerzy-Wojtek