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  1. As it's not legal to buy disposable plastic spoons in the EU, or order them from abroad, I ordered two sets of these from Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003737747272.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.21ef1802SpAoAd Although they are more expensive than spoons, it's nice that it's a compact deck so storing the swatches is easy, and also finding any particular swatch, as they're divided in sections by the main colours. And the background is in white, grey and black, to mimic the three most common primer colours. So all in all, looks to be quite nice and practical product.
  2. Hello folks. I am modelling the Tamiya Spitfire Vb in 1/48 with an Aboukir filter and am likely to produce it as EP689, mount of Sqn Ldr Stanislaw Skalski. This is clearly a popular subject with many models on show from a Google search. However, I have a question. Take a look at this image: And also this: I'm heading into dangerous territory here, trying to draw inferences about colour on an 80-year-old black and white image but if you look at the tone of the spinner in comparison to the tine of the colours in the roundel and fin flash, is the spinner really red as one tends to believe? I wonder if it is possibly roundel blue? Am I certifiable? Thanks, Neil
  3. Hi I wonder what were the colours of HMS Exeter at the time of the Battle of the River Plate. I believed it was overall light grey, but looking at the pictures of the return to home port, I am not so sure. The hull seems much darker than the bridge, and the turrets, and the torpedo tubes, almost white. Moroever, we can find in the IWM website an artwork from C. E. Cundall, painter, depicting the arrival at Plymouth after the River Plate action : the hull is medium grey, the superstructure is beige (beige ?) and light grey, the turrets and torpedo tubes are almost white, and the funnels seem buff. So, overall light grey, really ? I am sure someone will help.
  4. Hi This topic has already been explored in 2010 in this forum, but I am afraid the answer was not clear-cut. So, what was the colour for Centurions Mk.3 during the korean war, SCC or rather Deep Bronze Green ? There are some colour pictures of Centurions in the IWM collections ("The service of Sydney Sherriff in the Royal Armoured Corps in Korea") showing a rather deep green. Deep Bronze Green ? I am not a british colours specialist, but I am sure you can help.
  5. My next project is the Airfix A6M2b Zero and I have all the correct colours for a Mitsubishi built version, courtesy of Colourcoats, but have just one small question. I've read the previous posts regarding P&W radial engine colours but can't find any similar reference/post confirming what colours would be correct for Japanese radials so can anyone help please? Regards Colin.
  6. Dear All, One of my next projects will be the Revell 72nd scale F4U-1A Corsair which, whilst not as fine as the Tamiya equivalent, looks to be a good kit and at less than half the cost of the latter. The kit itself has two decal options, one for a Marine Corps unit in December 1943 and the other a Navy unit in February 1944, one of which I will be using, and both have the same colour scheme shown which has a mixture of white with blue/grey outer wings panels for the undersides. However after searching this site via Google and also referring to an article on interiors colours in the October 1981 edition of SAM I'm slightly confused about the correct colours for the wheel wells, engine cowling, oleos and the internal sides of the undercarriage doors. Some suggest that all would be in the external colour, so white in this instance, yet others refer to the use of chromate yellow unless it compromised the underside colour? I've checked my SAM publication on the Corsair (MDF 18) and pics of preserved examples in the US show white being used for the wheel wells, oleos and undercarriage door inners (including the tail wheel doors) but as museum pieces don't always get it right can I safely assume this to be correct? Other pics in this book show chromate/zinc yellow primer being used in the gun bays, engine cowling/bay and inner tail section, with interior green for the cockpit all of which I'd expected. Regards Colin.
  7. My next project will be the AZ example of the Bf109F-4 in the colours of Joachim Marseille but I have a small question which hopefully someone can help with. The box art shows his machine in June 1942, Werk Number 8693, having a red rudder with the under nose cowling painted yellow. However my other source for this machine, from the Osprey Aviation series 'Bf109 Aces of North Africa', shows the same machine but without the yellow lower nose cowling, so which one is correct please? Regards Colin.
  8. Hi all, I used to model a ton as a kid. It's a few decades on, and having decided to honour my Grandfather with accurate-as-can-be reproductions of his units in Tunisia & Italy, the last few weeks I have both learned more than I need to about markings, and learned that there's... quite a lot to accuracy in colours, it would seem ha. I've already been blessed to a personal response from Mike Starmer (a few days back into the hobby and I'm already getting an email from royalty!), which together with his published research has of course been invaluable. But I wanted to throw out there what I have, for your comment regarding accuracy, and to solicit opinions on possible paint/colouring/location scenarios - and to share some pics. I've done a ton of research, I just want to get these final details across the finish line. And unfortunately I can't ask Granddad any more. Model 1: Quad tractor & 25 pounder 140th Field Regiment, Royal Artillery. 504 battery, C troop, Tunisia Jan-May 1943. (1st Army, 2nd AGRA). Markings - AoS: RA red/blue with white bar under, number 202. Formation - 2 AGRA had the same as 1st Army, shield with sword on George cross. Battery red/blue square with red in 2nd position, troop/gun marking "C1". They shipped from the UK to Tunisia via Algeria in early Jan 1943. Mike surmised that they most likely had the UK camouflage (SCC 2 + 1a), having shipped from the UK. But I'd like to throw a couple of details and possible theory out there, and some black & white photos. First, they newly camouflage painted their equipment immediately before shipping out. Second, apparently the equipment was sunk on the way out and they reequipped (with new vehicles & guns) from a depot in North Africa before going into action. Third, I have photos from their sister battery's Bishops that deployed together with them, and this doesn't smell like SCC2 + 1a to me. So my question of you experts is, is it realistic that rather than SCC2 +1a UK colours, they might have either immediately before sailing or in-theatre, used MEGO 1650 colours (Desert Pink ZI with disruptive, I'd guess given the area and photos, Dark Olive Green)? Model 2: Scammel Pioneer R100 & 7.2" Howitzer Subsequent to their action in Tunisia, in September 1943 (still in-theatre), 504 battery transferred to 75th (Highland) Heavy Regiment, and was reequipped with 7.2" Howitzers & Scammell Pioneer R100s. While the rest of 75th Heavy took part in Sicily and on up, 504 bty did not join the rest of 75th Heavy until Mar 1943, sailing from Algeria to Naples. (8th Army, 6 AGRA). What I am confident they were NOT painted: SCC 15 base was too late (12 Apr 1944, they were already in action). It's possible that per Mike's "By 1944 European colours and schemes predominated" they were SCC2 base, and from the photos I've seen, likely SCC 14 disruptive. But Mike also adds "In Italy, many vehicles used home schemes... but others showed the remnants of their final North African schemes or the new Middle East scheme which used a basic colour of Light Mud [SCC 5] with bold specified patterns of black [SCC 14] or dark olive green [similar to but not SCC7]". Given that they have a new regiment and spanking new equipment in theatre, just a couple of months after that new ME directive is issued, I'm quite sure they'd have a SCC 5 base at least at first. But the question is, what's the likelihood that they might have repainted to the European colours (SCC 2 base) before deploying to Italy from Africa 6 months later, Mar 1944? Photos I have seen suggest likely SCC 14 disruptive in either case. (Markings: AoS red/blue/white bar beneath, number 204. Formation - 6 AGRA had the 6th zodiac symbol, like a gothic M, white on black. Battery marking blue with red in 4th position, still awaiting some info on the troop). The 7.2" photos are from later in Italy, after Sept 1944, so may not be indicative of the Mar-Aug period I wish to capture. Please excuse my pedantry, but I'm sure you understand and it would seem I'm among good company! So any theories on the likely colourings, given these scenarios, would be appreciated. I hope this might foster a possible lively discussion! Else maybe I'm just being ignorant - but in any case, I appreciate your input. And an aside - a couple of these markings I am going to have to make, at the very least the 6 AGRA formation marking. It's occurred to me that I might be able to print to teslin with my inkjet, a waterproof paper substitute I use for printing maps. Has anybody had any luck with anything like this? I'd also like to express my appreciation for all of your discussion on the accuracy of books and especially the actual paints from various suppliers. Based on all this I have stayed away from... most of the suppliers of the SCC and other colours, and just ordered Sovereign Hobbies Colourcoats (I'm sure you purists would have me mix Mike's mixes, but I have to draw a line somewhere). Thanks very much. I'd also like to share this, which I have contributed to and from where a lot of my research came. The battle of Cassel, rear-guard for Dunkirk, was an overlooked and significant event http://140th-field-regiment-ra-1940.co.uk/ (I may make Granddad's 18-pdr next - he was one of the very few from 367 bty who got away). Ah - I just noticed there's no upload - I have the Bishop and 7.2" photos from his actual unit, here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/b77syeh11yeuyca/AAC_WWJiGL6HKJPy_T8l6Dvma?dl=0
  9. As part of my F6F Hellcat build I've been researching the colours to be applied to the 3" Rockets with 60lb HE Warheads...and I'm confused! One source I found states the rocket body is light brunswick green, approximately US Light Green, Humbrol 117. A second states they should be a dark bronze green, close to Humbrol 75. The warheads are stated to be "Olive Green" Humbrol 155, whilst another says BS 285, which is NATO Green, the best match seems to be Humbrol 242, dunkle grun. Obviously colours changed with supplier and paint source, but does anyone have a view on the best match? Any suggestions much appreciated!
  10. Hi folk's,building the old Frog/Hasegawa kit over in the Frog GB at the moment, for a Djibouti based aircraft in three tone upper camo scheme.Looking at photos out there they seem to have Gray undersides but some finished model's have finishes from Gray to various shaded of light blue a couple in what I'd describe as Azure blue,anyone got a colour they could suggest?
  11. ... because this is useful information... Hyperdy wrote: And the Dragonborn replied bestest, M.
  12. Sorry for bothering you with such a basic question, but after some 40 years of aircraft and railway modelling I'd like to build some 1/700 battleships. Urban legend says that every one of them should have brown (teak) deck and grey hull. OK - but surely not the same shade of brown and grey. How could you put in order (from the very light to the very dark) the hull and deck colours of: HMS Hood in 1939 Littorio in 1940 Richelieu in 1941 USS North Carolina in 1942 Tirpitz in 1943 Yamato in 1944 USS Iowa in 1945 HMS Vanguard in 1946 Of course I have the kit manufacturers instructions, but before following them I'd like to know your opinion Cheers Michael
  13. Hi, I resurrected an old idea of mine of building a Thai Airways Airbus one day which got me thinking which paints are actually available for the specific purple. Does any one of you have any suggestions? I'm mainly using acrylics but having a something from that line is not a must. Many thanks in advance! Cristian
  14. Hi everyone, back with another conundrum. I recently picked up some Mig Ammo Crystal Colours, with intent to use the light blue to create a tint hinting at armoured glass for my truck (I know Alclad makes a colour specifically for this, but I don't want to mess with nasty cleaners). Problem is, when I tested the colour on a bit of clear acetate, it first delivered no colour, almost a clear hazing, and then when it did come out blue, the plastic was frosted. You could only see anything through that was directly behind it, which in the cab wouldn't happen, everything would be out of range and blurry. I suffered the same problem with my Tamiya Clear Blue, which I stripped from some windows recently. Painting either type onto something seems to retain clarity, but spraying doesn't. This is particularly odd because Tamiya Clear Red, which I sprayed onto my M1s vision blocks, retained clarity. Does anyone know how to spray these colours without them 'fogging' the glass and kind of defeating the purpose of a window? I also have Periscope Green, which I got for my Typhoon, but haven't yet tried spraying it. The whole thing puts me in a dilemma because hand painting the colours inevitably results in streaks in too strong a colour for something that's tinted. I emailed Mig, but like AKI recently, I got no reply to my query so any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks, Gaz
  15. I've got to the point with the big 1/32 Beaufighter that it is time to fit the radar aerials/antenna... The aircraft had Mk iV radar, operating at 220 MHz, amusingly the same as DAB Radio today....! The big question is what colour should they be? DAB antenna do not like to be painted, they tend to be either chromed or black anodised. So, assuming they are not chrome would black for the antenna be correct, with the support part in background colour? Colour photos are seemingly not available, at least I can't find one. Suggestions anyone? Peter
  16. Hi all, with my replacement starboard half on the way to me from Airfix and the build progressing splendidly I'm fast approaching time to splash some colour on it. Originally I was going for a Iraqi one but I now fancy doing a Cuban one. I'd already purchased the Xtradecal sheet in readiness. Any one with any ideas of what shade of greens were used on these Cuban Furies? Dark green seems a little vague. Then I noticed this sheet and that Cuban one just screams out to be done doesn't it? Again any pointers to those camouflage colours, Sky under surfaces? Let the guess work begin! Tim.
  17. Hello - I hope you good AFV folk can help me out - again... I will shortly have a tank commander and some truck and halftrack drivers to paint in 1/72. They are British / Northern Europe / 1944 - market garden type stuff... I am looking for help with basic uniform / helmet / beret colours. I use Vallejo Model Air - but I do have conversion charts for... Humbrol Gunze Gunze Mr Colour Tamiya XF Testors Can anyone throw a few colour numbers this way please. Thanks in advance - Steve
  18. Good evening, I'll soon be starting my Airacobra in Soviet markings and I want to use Mig AMMO paints. Trouble is that I'm finding it hard finding the right colours from Mig. The paints I need are for the camouflage (olive drab and some form of grey), the cockpit, undercarriage and the flap interior. Can anyone come up with any close matches? Any help will be appreciated. Thank you.
  19. Am I being silly here or is there nothing out there in 1/48 with the correct pointy nose? The A version isnt the same is it? What about the pitot? Yknow that feeling when youre sure youre missing something? Well, thats what Ive got. Ive got pretty much all versions and colours nailed down now, but Im not sure about the pointy one. Can you guys kick me in the right direction, please? Or just kick me for being stupid.
  20. Hi I am currently building the above mentioned kit and am not far from the painting stage. However, like the last flanker I built I am struggling to get my head around some of the colour call outs. I think I have the greys covered but for one of the main three camo colours it calls for a metallic black? Is that right, just sounds a bit odd to me. Google searches haven't helped much apart from showing me lots of pictures of the box art for said kit. Any help in what colours I should go for would be great. Thanks
  21. I've a picture (below) of the He 111 H-3 that I'm planning to model; 1H+EK of 2/KG26 No doubt someone out there has the answer, but I'm stumped as to the spinner and rudder colours of this aicraft. To me the spinners appear to be red, it being a 2/KG26 aircraft, but is the rudder red too? It there are any wise old heads out there that can give me some guidance I'd be grateful.
  22. Tamiya colours are my best preferred ones even if I use often Xtreacolous, Lifecolor, Hataka and Vallejo Air. The main problem with Tamiya is to find the proper Fderal Standard reference. Searching in the web I found this intersting link http://ipmsrealcote.pro-forums.org/t832-tamiya-mixes-for-some-fs-colors-full-up-to-date-list-in-english Ezio
  23. I am currently converting a Liberty Ship kit to a Royal Navy repair ship of the Xanthus class as in 1945. The few images available show HMS Assistance and HMS Diligence in a sort of measure 22 (5H and 5N); however, one ship served in home (UK) waters and the other in the far east theatre. My question is: would the deck be painted blue (20B) for both these vessels, considering their different operating areas? Mike
  24. Hi, I am trying to build DH 84 RAAF ambulance, likely A34-54. It is in WIP...- a scratch work. Here: http://www.goodall.com.au/australian-aviation/dh84-pt2/dh84-dragon-pt2.htm within record for A34-54 there is a photo described like that: A34-54 at Mareeba Qld in 1943 with No.2 Air Ambulance Unit. The factory paint scheme has been replaced by jungle green camouflage with red and white ambulance cross. Frank F. Smith collection I've seen in net someone's model of the same machine (not sure that exactlu "54") which was painted in DKEarth/Foliage Green with light blue undersurface. So - was it one or two colours from top on DH 84 RAAF Ambulances? And the bottom - white or light blue? Besides my doubts about the colours, which I should apply on this machine - the another problem is that I think that there was (perhaps) a nose art on this machine on left side (bee or something like that). I will appreciete also some info on this. Was it on "A34-54" or on another Dragon? Best regards Jerzy-Wojtek
  25. Well over the weekend I finally put all my enamels (100+!) into a big tin in the garage. That tin will be making an appearance on Ebay shortly... I have just topped up my acrylics collection with some purchases from Hamleys (pretty much the only model supplier in central London). And when I say "topped up" I mean trebled... I use Humbrol with some Revell and Games Workshop paints, and I have a load. So I needed to work out what I've got, painted on my Airfix Ju88 and phtographed in decidedly non-sunny daylight: Hxxx is Humbrol, Rxxx is Revell and (xxx) is the RLM number. The first thing I noted is how different some of the acrylic colours are from the enamels - for instance H66 is more grey than olive, and H117 is much darker than its equivalent enamel - I presume this is by design. H154, which is a superb deep yellow enamel, is a sticky barely translucent mess (inboard end of port aileron) whereas H24 covers pretty well in a couple of coats - quality control problem? The new tins with the screw top lids seem to offer a consistent quality - the old pots with the flip top lids are almost always half full of over thick paint, and I refuse to buy them any more (I am hoping there will be new stock in the new pots). White is always a problem, but I am now using either Games Workshop or "Crafters Pick" white acrylics, which seem to cover much better. My "go to" DG/DE/Sky (inboard port wing) is H116/H29/H90. Revell offer R68/R82 for green and brown, which seems too bright but maybe I'm not used to it. For DG/OG/MSG I use H116/H106/H64. R79 might make a better Ocean Grey because it's bluer. Desert stone/earth seems to be nicely covered by H225/H29. For Azure Blue I used a mix of 6 H34 white to 1 H24 blue in enamel land... For TSS EDSG/Dark Slate Grey (inboard stbd wing) I think H79/R67 looks good - previously I've been mixing my own Dark Slate Grey. For the lighter shades, H27/H224 seems to hit the spot, R79 looking a little too blue. For US OD/Grey I guess H155 is my best option, H66 and H86 (which I used to use in enamels) don't look right. For the Grey I used a mix of H24 white and H27 Dark Sea Grey in enamel land. For US navy I think H104 with H79 would work over white. For RLM 70/71/65 I will use H241/H242/H65, although the contrast between 70 and 71 is very low - maybe I need a touch of black in the 70? I think the modern trend is to have a higher contrast between 70 and 71 than is realistic, although I don't know how they weather relative to each other. RLM 72 and 73 look like great colours and it might be the perfect excuse to crack open the Airfix Arado 196 to try them out! H150 is not available as an acrylic so I will have to re-think my early war Soviet colour schemes, and I have still to try and work out how to apply these colours to Italian WWII colours. Now that I can see them all in one place, I can mix and match. The port tailplane is done in H241/H117/H249 and seems to be a good match for US in Vietnam colours! Hope this is helpful to someone. I know a lot of you use Vallejo or other brands but I tend to stick to the devil I know!! Regards, Adrian
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