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Good evening, first proper build post from me on the forums! Well it all started after a trip to the Midland Air Museum in Coventry where I got the fantastic chance to get inside an Avro Vulcan and see what it was like inside, and by god what an aircraft! I wish I had taken a lot more photographs but thanks to a thread that I found on the forums prior to joining, I found a nice walkaround inside of the cockpit. This was then followed by an enquiry to the Vulcan To The Sky Trust and after they gave me a few pages of the crew manual showing the details of both the front and rear cockpit, they also suggested getting a book which included the manual and infinitely more in-depth images. (The Vulcan Story 1952-2002 by Tim Laming) And so it began, all made of plasticard with the seat cushions made of milliput. Obviously there is still A LOT of work to do I think it is coming along nicely and the 3 panels shown at the end were made today with clear plastic used to serve as the ground scanning radar screen and a few dials. Thanks for that, cue the images! Sam And so after an hour of fannying around with Google+, Flickr and now Photobucket, the photos now work!

Hi all I have been asked by the people at Precision Ice and Snow to review their new product for creating the ultimate in realistic Ice and Snow effects. I must admit when I was first approached I was sceptical about how realistic this snow effect would be as it has long been a hard task for a modeller to create a believable snow effect. But no more I must say I am truly shocked at how good and versatile this stuff is and how easy and fun it is to use. The first photo is of some 1/35 scale bricks on a piece of plasticard kindly given to me to try out for the review. I sprayed this grey but more on that later.. I have only had a brief play with Precision Ice and Snow. These are my first attempts with a skaledale bridge and a Hornby MGR wagon. I cant believe how good it looks it is very easy and fun to use. So much so I have decided I am going to build a micro layout/diorama to just for the purpose of testing this snow out and creating a snowy railway scene. The wood arrived today for the baseboards along with the C&L Finescale track. Here are some shots of my first efforts. Notice how it aerodynamically settles on the bricks bringing out the detail just like real snow ! The above shots are created by simply spraying on some hairspray and then shaking on the Precision Ice and Snow with the provided sieve. Then removing and re-coating. These photos are after many applications It is so fine you can build it up in very fine layers so creating a frost is very possible. This can be washed off as it was applied with hairspray different types of hairspray give different effects. The Precision Snow is a harmless fine powder that is the same white colour as snow. when I say fine It is "Extremely fine" It can also be scaled and has scale reflective qualities and glints at you like real snow or frost but in scale. I shall have to do some more photos with the right light on it to capture. But I can assure you it glints in scale and when you hold your model up to the light and give it a good eyeball over, you will chuckle with satisfaction about how "right" it looks. It really makes things look cold even in the summer sun. Here is one of the brick fields. Plastic square rod is cut to simulate bricks and placed as if in a debris pattern on plastic sheet Precision Ice and Snow kindly provided these for me to try. I sprayed mine with humbrol 67 tank grey from their excellent rattle cans just to give a dark base to contrast the snow. I then sprayed this one with 3M spray mount to give a more permanent hold. Then I sieved some snow effect on waited a few mins removed the excess and re-coated I did not try hard I could have been blindfolded I wanted to see what the product could do for me and I assure you it works for you. you can be creative with it but it just looks real whatever you do. The 5 pence shows you how incredibly fine this power is. Plenty of Jokes are derived from its fine white qualities ! This is the before and after with the brick field painted Humbrol 67 It can be as temporary or as permanent as you like. You can just have it loose but really there are 2 main options to you as it builds in layers. one temporary method is to use hairspray and spray the item in the direction you want the snow to form then you dust the snow effect on leave it a few seconds then blow it and brush it off. This will leave a fine layer of frost. If your happy leave it at that but you can spray on more hairspray and then more snow and build it in layers It also has the same transparent effect of snow and ice and the underneath will show through and decrease as it builds in layers though even after many coats you can still see the paint through the snow subtly and realistic. using harispray will hold it very well but it is removable with water. This is an advantage as you can wash it off if your not happy. but best of all because it builds in fine layers you can gradually build up your work so you don't have to worry about over doing anything. If you want a permanent effect and for the snow to build in an even more impressive way you really should use 3M Spray Mount Photo Adhesive. It builds with a slightly different effect. At the moment I have only experimented with 3M sprays Spray mount is best but you can use photo mount and others all will give different effects. I have thought of experimenting with Johnsons Klear through the Airbrush to give more control though that really is not seeming to be needed. The precision ice and snow acutally mimics the way snow forms aerodynamicaly too as can be seen on this car Precision Ice and Snow sent me for the review. this car has been sprayed at from the front and a mask on the windscreen to simulate were it has been wiped off. the car looks like it has been driven in snow and then parked and the windows frosted over. This was achieved by spraying a mixture of 3M and hairspray in layers from the front and then sieved snow dropping towards the grill of the car. as you can see it settled very impressively. It depends what direction you apply the snow how it forms so it is possible with some creativity and imagination to create the effects of snow in heavy wind. It is also possible to mix this with silicon and create snow slush and ice sheets I have not tried this yet but I will do and the website has much information on this. Here are some shots of my old Dragon Tiger 1 tank this one is a pre made item and I forget the scale now but it is only about the size of small mobile phone. It sadly had a wheel missing so I decided I would snow this after having so much fun with the bricks bridge and wagon. I really do recommend this product as you can imagine it will revolutionise how we model snow or frost and give us many more options be it modelling railways, military Sci-fi War games and other genres. Temperature was something I have not thought much about modelling till now. This will likely spawn new uses for dioramas, fantasy modelling or use in TV/Film studio miniatures. I would love to create a diorama of a woodland hideout with some RAF figures and a snow scheme Harrier GR3 under a temporary hangar with this stuff. Also I remember seeing a railway layout set in the 1930s featuring LNER steam in the snow I have not seen many layouts in the snow and always fancied doing my own. With this it should be a doddle and give far more impressive results that just painting roofs white especially as Precision Ice and Snow is stable and will not yellow. This is what has inspired my new micro layout that will be under construction soon I will do a work in progress here on Britmodeller and over on the other forum I frequent RMweb so you can see how I get on. Hopefully ill have the snow on by Christmas. If you would like to find out more or order some of your own snow effect check out this web site and get yours from here : http://precisioniceandsnow.com/Precisioniceandsnow/Home.html Or look for Precision Ice and Snow on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Precision-Model-Ice-and-Snow/163042673867707?ref=stream Many thanks for reading I hope you all enjoyed this review. Cheers Rob

Morning all! This is my quick OOB (almost) build of the Roden VC-10 K3 1:144 kit. Nothing much more to say so lets get on with it : Kit: Roden VC-10 K3 1:144 (From my LMS- Mike's Models) Paints: Vallejo Model Air custom-mixed grey (based on reference photos) Vallejo Model Air black, Model Color silver Washes: Vallejo Model Wash-dark grey Additional Details: Refuelling basket (inside the central refueling pod) made from rolled up tissue paper Spare RAF roundels had to be used on the side of the fuselage due to an error made by myself Flaps were produced, cutting out the kit's flaps on the underside of the wing and using plasticard to make up the rest of the structure Spoilers/speedbrakes were produced from paper Pros: Great recessed panel lines on the wings and rear control surfaces Nicely detailed engine pods (especially the thrust reverser gratings) Lots (and lots!) of decals, especially on the refuelling pods, which were not all used in this build Window masks (which i stupidly put on every single window and ended up running out of masks half way down the other side!) Relatively cheap- depending on your LMS/supplier Numerous tiny aerials and probes supplied Cons: Very shallow panel lines on the main fuselage body Ejector pins on fuselage join, when these were removed I found that there was a poor fuselage join Very unusual scheme, I can find only one image of this scheme on the internet-apparently the crews "were not a fan" Decal placement sheet was sometimes difficult to interpret Base kit does not have an option for spoilers or flaps Quite a few decals were out of register, but this shouldn't really matter Thanks for having a look Kind regards, Sam

Good morning, I just thought I might ask the advice and opinions of members of the forum in regards to a project i'm starting. I was thinking of doing a 1:72 Airfix Vulcan "properly"; with aftermarket engines, intakes (possibly, you'll see later) and the white ensign model (WEM) stuff. I've also thought it might be an appropriate model to do some rescribing for the first time, along with flory washes, photo etch and resin- I had to choose this model So the few questions I would like to ask are as follows: 1. Can you use a steel ruler and is it adviseable for linear panel lines as a guide- rather than masking tape? 2. (Perhaps the most important decision) Which Vulcan to do?! I've got a choice between XH558 and XL360- having been in XL360 and purely because I quite like the 617 tail marking (I might be turning into an "anorak" ) I feel a greater sense of attachment to her, although I have seen XH558 display at Throckmorton last year and so I am quite keen on her too! 3. Should I have "everything" open (gear down, airbrakes down, bomb bay doors open, crew hatch open)? Or should I save some money and (if I should choose XL360) build the Coventry Vulcan as it currently is (and save additional money with FOD covers for the ghastly kit intakes)? Note: I would have built the Cosford Vulcan but I'm not keen on the highly glossed finish of XM598 4. Any other advice for building the Airfix kit? Joins to watch out for, etc. I know that 2 and 3 are very subjective points but I would greatly value your opinions. Many thanks, Sam Edit: the 617 tail marking on XL360 Edit 2: -Are there any definitive colour matches out there for either 558 or 360?

Hello! This is the first 'proper' build i've done for a few years, I'm rusty but back with vengeance. Far from perfect re: paint job, but it's a notorious kit to build. I've neatened up the cockpit and airbrake since I took these pics too. Can't wait to get my hands on the new tool Airfix kit! Up next: 1/200 Vulcan in anti flash. If anyone can tell me what image extensions i can use here, i'd be grateful. They all reject for me! In the meantime, pics here: http://postimg.cc/gallery/2lgjzw3xg/31c2f0a1/ Chris

Hi All, I've picked up a 1/200 Vulcan and have finally decided to go anti flash white (I chickened out of doing it on my last Victor...) I want to do this with spray cans. What are the best (ideally cheapest) primer and white gloss products for the job? I don't know whether to go primer > matt white > clear gloss primer > gloss white enamel vs. acrylic etc Any help to make sure this just works first time would be highly appreciated! Ta, Chris

Good evening all, First of all, apologies about the photos-they're not the best.... Secondly, being a rather large Vulcan fan I thought why not try the Cyberhobby 1:200 kit, I would have never thought of buying one, but it was on Ebay for £5. And oh, my. What a kit! The panel lines are crisp, the decals are outstanding and the options available (shrike, blue steel, gear up/down, open crew hatch, etc, are quite varied. It even includes parts for the instrument panel and ejection seats-which shockingly also include control columns!!! A brilliant kit- the one issue being that the pressure needed in order the keep the upper and lower wing sections mated together while gluing is fairly substantial-requiring a clamp to get a good fit. Furthemore, it doesn't come with a bomb bay, so I've scratchbuilt a fairly crude bomb bay and managed to squash that into the aircraft. -Painted using an airbrush and Vallejo "Model Air" colours. Scratchbuilt bomb bay- including hand painted VTTS logo and a sponsor's logo inside (very messy, i know!) So, that's pretty much it from me, Thanks for having a look around Sam

Good evening all, Just been to Bruntingthorpe's cold war jets day-superb stuff! Anyway the point is, I picked up a 1:48 TSR-2 for £28 and I was wondering what sort of things I should probably look out for in terms of building the kit (fit issues, etc)? I was thinking of not painting the kit (seen as it is moulded in white plastic) mainly because whenever I have sprayed stuff white in the past, thousands of dust particles suddenly appear on my previously white model and are trapped by the paint when it dries. So, what do you think of that? Is that ok for getting a decent finish on the model? I have also heard rumours that the landing gear can break rather easily, is this true? Thanks, apologies for any grammatical mistakes -i'm rather tired! Sam