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  1. Su-30MKK Family Interior 3D Decal (QD48047 for Hobby Boss Kits) 1:48 Quinta Studios When Quinta’s innovative products first came to our attention recently they caused quite a stir, as well they should. The replacement Instrument Panels and internal details are mind-boggling to look at, because we’re used to seeing simplified styrene instrument panels, or Photo-Etch brass panels with either two steps of etching, or laminated parts that can be tricky to glue together, even though they are pre-painted for your ease. But decals? These aren’t your run-of-the-mill decals though, they’re 3D printed in many layers and colours on a flat carrier film, having as much in the way of relief as is needed to complete a realistic panel printed in the correct colours, complete with shiny dial faces, MFDs and metallic-effect hardware, often also including cushions and seat belts in the set. Each set arrives in a ziplok bag with two folded instruction booklets protecting the decals, which are also separately bagged, so they should reach you in good condition. The pictorial instructions are printed on glossy paper, and are shown in full colour as befits the detailed nature of the sets, showing exactly where each part should go on the actual model, so there’s no confusion due to the truism that pictures speak a thousand words. Additional hints and instructions for the uninitiated are also included, marking out parts needing bases, kit part numbers and other useful tips. The technical instructions in the text-based sheet give additional tips to the new user about maximising adhesion and preventing lift at the edges by wicking in super glue. Application is much the same as your standard decal, but you will need to remove any raised detail that would be underneath the location depicted in the instructions, and some new parts will need small backing panels or bases on which to apply the decal. A slim piece of sheet styrene would fit the bill, and painting the edges a matching colour should minimise its appearance or turn it completely invisible. This set is patterned for the Hobby Boss kits of the Su-30MK, MK2, M2, MKV, MK2V and MKK. The set comprises one large sheet, containing instrument panel sections, multiple large MFD panels surrounded by buttons, dials and other instruments, the former having a deep green shiny finish, just like the real displays when switched off. The panels are in the more modern brighter bluish shade, and includes the side consoles plus the side wall framing and insulation that have flat-spots on them to accept other parts on the sheet for the ultimate in relief. Conclusion The detail on the parts is incredible, even down to the infinitesimal switches, the texture of the insulation and impressive crispness of the set. Any Quinta outfitted cockpit really needs a crystal-clear or opened canopy to show off the details. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Mig-29SMT Interior 3D Decal (QD32022 for Trumpeter) 1:32 Quinta Studios When Quinta’s innovative products first came to our attention recently they caused quite a stir, as well they should. The replacement Instrument Panels and internal details are mind-boggling to look at, because we’re used to seeing simplified styrene instrument panels, or pre-painted Photo-Etch Brass panels with either two layers of etch, or laminated parts that can be tricky to glue together, even though they are pre-painted for your ease. But decals? These aren’t your run-of-the-mill decals though, they’re 3D printed in many layers and colours on a flat carrier film, having as much in the way of relief as is needed to complete a realistic panel printed in the correct colours, complete with shiny dial faces, lustrous MFDs and metallic-effect hardware, often also including cushions and seat belts in the set. Each set arrives in a ziploc bag with two folded instruction booklets protecting the decals, which are also separately bagged, so they should reach you in good condition. The pictorial instructions are printed on glossy paper, and are shown in full colour as befits the detailed nature of the sets, showing exactly where each part should go on the actual model, so there’s no confusion due to pictures speaking a thousand words, as they say. Additional hints and instructions for the uninitiated are also included, marking out parts needing bases, kit parts and other useful tips. The technical instructions in the text-based sheet give additional tips to the new user about maximising adhesion and preventing lift at the edges by wicking in super glue. Application is much the same as your standard decal, but you will need to remove any raised detail that would be underneath the location depicted in the instructions, and some new parts will need small backing panels or bases on which to apply the decal. A slim piece of sheet styrene would perform that task, and painting the edges a matching colour should minimise its appearance or turn it completely invisible. This set is patterned for the 1:32 Trumpeter kit of the hunchback Mig-29SMT, which is one of those gorgeously ugly aircraft in my opinion. The set comprises three sheets of decals, containing instrument panel sections; multiple large glossy MFD panels surrounded by buttons that the camera doesn’t quite do justice to, having a deep green shiny finish, just like the real displays when switched off. Side consoles and cockpit sidewalls are covered with new parts, and the seat is festooned with new belts and cushions, the latter having a realistic crinkled finish to the vertically stitched surface. Even the sides of the consoles receive attention, as does the HUD box, with a yellowish lens, and the control column is upgraded with a set of buttons that are just superb. The panels are in the more modern bluish grey shade, and you will of course have to remove the moulded-in detail to the cockpit surfaces, as shown in the first diagram on the instructions. Conclusion The detail on the parts is incredible, even down to the infinitesimal switches, the texture of the seat cushions and impressive crispness of the set. If you think the 1:48 sets are impressive (they are), the impressive dial goes all the way up to 11 in 1:32 scale and larger. Any Quinta outfitted cockpit really needs a crystal-clear of opened canopy to show off the details. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  3. Fi-156 Storch Interior 3D Decal (QD48078 for Tamiya) 1:48 Quinta Studios When Quinta’s innovative products first came to our attention recently, they caused quite a stir, as well they should. The replacement Instrument Panels and internal details are mind-boggling to look at, because we’re used to seeing simplified styrene instrument panels, or pre-painted Photo-Etch Brass panels with either two layers of etch, or laminated parts that can be tricky to glue together, even though they are pre-painted for your ease. But decals? These aren’t your run-of-the-mill decals though, they’re 3D printed in many layers and colours on a flat carrier film, having as much in the way of relief as is needed to complete a realistic panel printed in the correct colours, complete with shiny dial faces, MFDs and metallic-effect hardware, often also including cushions and seat belts in the set. Each set arrives in a ziplok bag with two folded instruction booklets protecting the decals, which are also separately bagged, so they should reach you in good condition. The pictorial instructions are printed on glossy paper, and are shown in full colour as befits the detailed nature of the sets, showing exactly where each part should go on the actual model, so there’s no confusion due to pictures speaking a thousand words, as they say. Additional hints and instructions for the uninitiated are also included, marking out parts needing bases, kit parts and other useful tips. The technical instructions in the text-based sheet give additional tips to the new user about maximising adhesion and preventing lift at the edges by wicking in super glue. Application is much the same as your standard decal, but you will need to remove any raised detail that would be underneath the location depicted in the instructions, and some new parts will need small backing panels or bases on which to apply the decal. A slim piece of sheet styrene would perform that task, and painting the edges a matching colour should minimise its appearance or turn it completely invisible. This set is patterned for the excellent Tamiya kit of the type that was released a few years back now, but it’s still the top of a very small heap by quite a way. The set comprises two small sheets, containing instrument panel sections, two large radio boxes, levers and other instruments, the dials having a lustrous shiny finish, just like the real glass panes. The panels are in the RLM 66 dark grey, and includes mag straps if your Storch was fitted with a self-defence machine gun, seatbelts for up to three crew members, rudder pedal straps, plus small instruments on the canopy internal framework. Conclusion The detail on the parts is incredible, even down to the infinitesimal switches, the texture of the main panel and impressive crispness of the set. Any Quinta outfitted cockpit really needs a crystal-clear or opened canopy to show off the details. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Spitfire Mk.IX 3D Interior Decals (QD32018 for Tamiya) 1:32 Quinta Studios When Quinta’s innovative products first came to our attention, they caused quite a stir, as well they should, and they still are. The replacement Instrument Panels and internal details are mind-boggling to look at, because we’re used to seeing simplified styrene instrument panels, or pre-painted Photo-Etch Brass panels with either two layers of etch, or laminated parts that can be tricky to glue together, even though they are pre-painted for your ease. But decals? These aren’t your run-of-the-mill decals though, they’re 3D printed in many layers and colours on a flat carrier film, having as much in the way of relief as is needed to complete a realistic panel printed in the correct colours, complete with shiny dial faces, MFDs and metallic-effect hardware, often also including cushions and seat belts in the set. Each set arrives in a ziplok bag with two folded instruction booklets protecting the decals, which are also separately bagged, so they should reach you in good condition. The pictorial instructions are printed on glossy paper, and are shown in full colour as befits the detailed nature of the sets, showing exactly where each part should go on the actual model, so there’s no confusion due to pictures speaking a thousand words, as they say. Additional hints and instructions for the uninitiated are also included, marking out parts needing bases, kit parts and other useful tips. The technical instructions in the text-based sheet give additional tips to the new user about maximising adhesion and preventing lift at the edges by wicking in super glue. Application is much the same as your standard decal, but you will need to remove any raised detail that would be underneath the location depicted in the instructions, and some new parts will need small backing panels or bases on which to apply the decal. A slim piece of sheet styrene would perform that task, and painting the edges a matching colour should minimise its appearance or turn it completely invisible. This set is patterned for the excellent Tamiya Spitfire Mk.IX kit that was released a couple years back now, which is the definitive kit of the type, with a huge amount of detail engineered in. The set comprises one large and one small sheet, containing instrument panel with separate raised sections added in the middle for early and late panels, the dials having a lustrous shiny finish, just like the real glass; two large wiring looms that run down and through the panel; green rudder pedal surfaces; A full set of four-point crew belts with realistic furniture; instrument faces on the cockpit sidewalls; throttle quadrant levers and other small parts. The depth of the parts is greater at 1:32, taking full advantage of the printing process, but on a couple of the red levers there are some flecks of white visible that would benefit from touching in with some paint. This isn’t meant as a criticism, just something to note while fitting the set. Conclusion The detail on the parts is incredible, even down to the infinitesimal switches, the texture of the main panel and impressive crispness and depth of the set. Any Quinta equipped cockpit demands a crystal-clear or opened canopy to show off the details. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  5. Regia Aeronautica Cockpits - Air Set (A.MIG-7236) AMMO of Mig Jiménez This set is for your WWII Italian cockpits. This four paint set arrives in a clear clamshell box with a card header with some colour use suggestions on the rear. Inside are four bottles each containing 17ml of paint that is dispensed by a dropper that is found under the yellow screw-top cap. Inside each bottle is a little stirring ball that rattles when agitated. AMMO paints separate quite readily so having a ball in the bottle makes mixing them a lot easier. We’re all familiar with the quality of AMMO paints by now, and they have a pretty good reputation amongst us modellers, and dry a little slower than some of the competition, which can be useful to avoid paint drying on the tip of your needle when spraying. The paints are as follows: A.MIG-0238 Verde Mimetico 2 A.MIG-0272 Giallo Mimetico 4 A.MIG-0273 Verde Anticorrosione A.MIG-0194 Matt Aluminium Conclusion It’s great to be able to get sets of paint that will set you up for any Italian WWII cockpit project in one hit (or not as it may seem) with just the addition of some white and black to assist you with modulation if that’s your methodology. Review sample courtesy of
  6. I'm finally getting near to completing my Zvezda 72nd scale Bf109F-2 as an F-4/Trop version but have a quick question. All of the builds I've seen of this kit show the main hood having a painted frame member in the middle whereas all the references and photos just show this as vague inner line where the constituent pieces of the canopy met, presumably allowing the side forward sections to be slid backwards? I'm not 100% sure either way but I've masked the canopy such that it will not have a painted frame member in the middle so can anyone just confirm please before I finish all the paintwork? Regards Colin.
  7. Petlyakov Pe-2 Interior 3D Decal & Vacform Canopy (QD48011 & QC48011 for Zvezda) 1:48 Quinta Studio When Quinta’s innovative products first came to our attention a little while ago they caused quite a stir, as well they should. The replacement Instrument Panels and internal details are mind-boggling to look at, because we’re used to seeing simplified styrene instrument panels, or Photo-Etch Brass panels with either two layers of etch, or laminated parts that can be tricky to glue together, even though they are pre-painted for your ease. But decals? These aren’t your run-of-the-mill decals though, they’re 3D printed in many layers and colours on a flat carrier film, having as much in the way of relief as is needed to complete a realistic panel printed in the correct colours, complete with shiny dial faces and metallic-effect hardware, and often including cushions and seat belts in the set. Each set arrives in a ziplok bag with a folded instruction booklet protecting the decals, which are also separately bagged, so they should reach you in good condition. The pictorial instructions are printed on glossy paper, and are shown in full colour as befits the awesomeness of the sets, showing exactly where each part should go on the actual model, so there’s no confusion due to the “pictures speak a thousand words” maxim. Additional hints and instructions are also included, marking out parts needing bases, kit parts and other useful tips. The technical instructions are text-based, giving additional tips to the new user regarding maximising adhesion and preventing lift at the edges by wicking in super glue. Application is much the same as your standard decal, but you will need to remove any raised detail that would be underneath the location depicted in the instructions, and some new parts will need small backing panels or bases on which to apply the decal. A slim piece of sheet styrene would perform that task, and painting the edges a matching colour should minimise its appearance or turn it completely invisible. This set is for the Zvezda kit of this type that first hit our shelves in 2015. The cockpit area from the box is relatively modern, but suffers from totally blank instrument panels that are fitted with decals during construction. This set includes a complete set of new 3D instruments, with additional details added over the main panels for extra relief, it also has a number of instrument packages that are sat next to the two crew, and yet more on the cockpit sidewalls. Finally, you get a bonus of two complete sets of four-point seatbelts for the top crew, and another pair of lap belts for the waist gunner inside the fuselage. If you’re wondering if any of this beautiful looking detail will be seen under the kit canopies, then I have news for you. Quinta have also created a full set of clear vacformed canopies for this aircraft, which has a relatively large amount of greenhouse glass to contend with. Read on. Pe-2 Vacform Canopy (QC48011) 1:48 Quinta Studio Some aircraft have a few canopies, some have a seemingly endless greenhouse of glazing just waiting for your fingerprints or masking disasters. The Zvezda kit of the Pe-2 has a fair number of clear parts, and the necessary thickness of styrene canopies reduces visibility of the interior. If you’ve spent any time working on the detail inside the aircraft, you’ll want a clear view into the fuselage so that all your effort isn’t wasted. If you’ve used the 3D printed decals above, you’ll be highly motivated to show them off, which is just what this set is designed for. It arrives in a sub-miniature Tupperware style box, with the contents secured in a ziplok bag, and each part further protected within its own smaller bag. There are no instructions, as once you’ve cut the canopy parts from the backing sheet, they can be glued in much the same way as the kit parts, and masked as usual. The frames for these parts are very well defined, so there should be no issues with masking them, but unlike styrene canopies, you’ll be best served by either trying some commercial masking sets, or using thin strips of tape to line the frames and fill in between with more tape or masking fluid. The set includes the following glazing panels: Two oval waist gunner windows in the sides of the fuselage Two small C-shaped windows on the fuselage sides above the waist gun ports Clamshell top window/hatch for waist gunner with pop-up forward windscreen to deflect the slipstream Clear floor for the forward cockpit Canopy with a separate rear turret for the aft gunner Flush wing-light cover If you’re new to using vacform canopies, here are a few tips. Push Blutak into the hollow interior of the vacformed parts to give it some rigidity while handling. Cut off any rigid edges with scissors before beginning the cut-out process. When cutting out the canopy, use a brand new #11 blade, and proceed slowly, using gentle, shallow cuts. Some folks use fine scissors to remove the backing sheet, although I’ve never felt the urge to try it as a blade works for me. Once the canopy has been removed, trim the edges in easy stages to refine fit with the model and test fit frequently. To trim the canopy down, you can use fine scissors (taking care not to close the blades fully), or a sanding stick, being careful not to scratch the clear panes. When you’re happy with the shape, remove any remaining Blutak and clean the screen to remove any residue and finger oils, then dip it in Klear/Future to give it a glossy finish that will allow you to strip it back if you make a mistake. If you make a mistake when painting or gluing, drop your canopy in a sacrificial bath of Klear/Future, and the paint/superglue will just flake off into the liquid if it hasn’t breached the Klear barrier. They’re really not as hard to use as people seem to feel. If I can do it with my big stubby fingers, you can too! Conclusion You have to see them to believe how good they are, and for a turn-key solution they are without match in the hobby right now. Add to that the seatbelts, the incredibly competitive price, and they’re a must-have for anyone that isn’t a cockpit painting master. A true innovation. Add the crystal-clear canopies to your build, and you’ll end up with a brilliant model. Extremely highly recommended. 3D Printed Instrument Decals (QD48011) Vacform Canopy (QC48011) Review sample courtesy of
  8. Lockheed P-38F/G Lightning Interior 3D Decal (QD48031 & QD48030 for Tamiya) 1:48 Quinta Studios When Quinta’s innovative products first came to our attention a few months ago they caused quite a stir, as well they should. The replacement Instrument Panels and internal details are mind-boggling to look at, because we’re used to seeing simplified styrene instrument panels, or Photo-Etch Brass panels with either two layers of etch, or laminated parts that can be tricky to glue together, even though they are pre-painted for your ease. But decals? These aren’t your run-of-the-mill decals though, they’re 3D printed in many layers and colours on a flat carrier film, having as much in the way of elevation as is needed to complete a realistic panel printed in the correct colours, complete with shiny dial faces and metallic-effect hardware, and often including cushions and seat belts in the set. Each set arrives in a ziplok bag with a folded instruction booklet protecting the decals, which are also separately bagged, so they should reach you in good condition. The pictorial instructions are printed on glossy paper, and are shown in full colour as befits the awesomeness of the sets, showing exactly where each part should go on the actual model, so there’s no confusion due to the “pictures speak a thousand words” maxim. Additional hints and instructions are also included, marking out parts needing bases, kit parts and other useful tips. The technical instructions in the text-based, giving additional tips to the new user about maximising adhesion and preventing lift at the edges by wicking in super glue. Application is much the same as your standard decal, but you will need to remove any raised detail that would be underneath the location depicted in the instructions, and some new parts will need small backing panels or bases on which to apply the decal. A slim piece of sheet styrene would perform that task, and painting the edges a matching colour should minimise its appearance or turn it completely invisible. This set is patterned for the still new Tamiya kit of the P-38F/G Lightning, the twin-boom heavy fighter from Lockheed that was hugely successful in its role. The set comprises one sheet of decals, containing instrument panel sections, side consoles, additional black boxes, levers and a full set of seatbelts for the pilot’s convenience and safety. Conclusion The detail on the parts is incredible, even down to the infinitesimal switches and impressive crispness of the set. This cockpit really needs a crystal-clear or opened canopy to show off the details. Very highly recommended. P-38F P-38G Review sample courtesy of
  9. Mig-29 SMT (9-19) Interior 3D Decal (QD48024 for Great Wall Hobby) 1:48 Quinta Studios When Quinta Studio’s innovative products first came to our attention a few months ago they caused quite a stir, as well they should. The replacement Instrument Panels and internal details are mind-boggling to look at, because we’re used to seeing simplified styrene instrument panels, or Photo-Etch Brass panels with either two layers of etch, or laminated parts that can be tricky to glue together, even though they are pre-painted for your ease. But decals? These aren’t your run-of-the-mill decals though, they’re 3D printed in many layers and colours on a flat carrier film, having as much in the way of elevation as is needed to complete a realistic panel printed in the correct colours, complete with shiny dial faces and metallic-effect hardware, and often including cushions and seat belts in the set. Each set arrives in a ziplok bag with a folded instruction booklet protecting the decals, which are also separately bagged, so they should reach you in good condition. The pictorial instructions are printed on glossy paper, and are shown in full colour as befits the awesomeness of the sets, showing exactly where each part should go on the actual model, so there’s no confusion due to the “pictures speak a thousand words” maxim. Additional hints and instructions are also included, marking out parts needing bases, kit parts and other useful tips. The technical instructions in the text-based, giving additional tips to the new user about maximising adhesion and preventing lift at the edges by wicking in super glue. Application is much the same as your standard decal, but you will need to remove any raised detail that would be underneath the location depicted in the instructions, and some new parts will need small backing panels or bases on which to apply the decal. A slim piece of sheet styrene would perform that task, and painting the edges a matching colour should minimise its appearance or turn it completely invisible. This set is patterned for the lovely/ugly Great Wall Hobby (GWH) Mig-29SMT (9-19), with its distinctive spine hump that houses additional avionics. The set comprises one relatively small sheet, containing instrument panel sections, and two large MFD panels surrounded by buttons and other instruments, the former having a deep green shiny finish, just like the real displays when switched off. The background to the panels are in the more modern bluish shade, and includes the side consoles plus the electronics panel, part C66. Conclusion The detail on the parts is incredible, even down to the infinitesimal switches and impressive crispness of the set. This cockpit really needs a crystal-clear or opened canopy to show off the details. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  10. Yak-130 Interior 3D Decal (QD48007 for Zvezda) 1:48 Quinta Studios When Quinta’s innovative products first came to our attention they caused quite a stir, as well they should. The replacement Instrument Panels and internal details are mind-boggling to look at, because we’re used to seeing simplified styrene instrument panels, or Photo-Etch Brass panels with either two layers of etch, or laminated parts that can be tricky to glue together, even though they might be pre-painted for your ease. But decals? These aren’t your run-of-the-mill decals though, they’re 3D printed in many layers and colours on a flat carrier film, having as much in the way of elevation as is needed to complete a realistic panel printed in the correct colours, complete with shiny dial faces and metallic-effect hardware, and often including cushions and seat belts in the set. Each set arrives in a ziplok bag with a folded instruction booklet protecting the decals, which are also separately bagged, so should reach you in good condition. The pictorial instructions are printed on glossy paper, and are shown in full colour as befits the awesomeness of the sets, showing exactly where each part should go on the actual model, so there’s no confusion due to the “pictures speak a thousand words” maxim. Additional hints and instructions are also included, marking out parts needing bases, kit parts and other useful tips. The technical instructions are text-based, giving additional tips to the new user about maximising adhesion and preventing lift at the edges by wicking in super glue. Application is much the same as your standard decal, but you will need to remove any raised detail that would be underneath the location depicted in the instructions, and some new parts will need small backing panels or bases on which to apply the decal. A slim piece of sheet styrene would perform that task, and painting the edges a matching colour should minimise its appearance or render it completely invisible. This set is patterned for the recent Zvezda Yak-130, or Mitten as NATO call it. The set comprises two sheets, the larger one containing a full set of seat cushions, belts, straps and even the pull-handles to initiate ejection, complete with red warning paint where necessary. The smaller sheet contains instrument panel segments, and three large MFD panels per cockpit are surrounded by buttons, and have a deep green shiny finish, just like the real thing when switched off. There are also two white det-cord canopy breaker runs that can be seen in the top of the canopy, shattering the plexiglass in the event of an emergency exit. These can be attached invisibly with a little Klear/Future. The panels are in the more modern bluish shade, and due to how the panels are fitted into every space around the pilots and MFDs, they are supplied in a number of parts that fill up the area gradually, making the task easier for the modeller. Conclusion The detail on the parts are incredible, even down to the cushions with a quilted surface, differing textures and impressive crispness of the whole set. I’d love to see the printing process in-motion, but to me it still seems like magick! This big open cockpit now really needs a vacform canopy to show off the details, especially as my Zvezda kit seems to have arrived with badly fogged/scuffed canopies. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  11. This is my first WnW I'm losing the will to live ! Every time I get close to posting submission it all gets lost!!!!! Above the obnoxious join. The rear cockpit spit in two down the midline. The whole of the wood grain area sanded back and restarted. A new wood varnish applied, watercolour pencils Tamya clear orange. The rest of the inside was completed. And then joined. With masking tape in place to complete the exterior of the nacelle but with a bit of imagination and the previous photos you can imagine the result OK in my eyes.
  12. Hi everyone, after the FJ-2 tail surfaces correction set, a couple more Fury resin products for the Kitty Hawk kit are available for purchase from Hypersonic Models and selected partners: First a cockpit update set that provides a new aft bulkhead and turtledeck with all the details, a detailed ejection seat with belts and harness straps and a part for the loop antenna assembly. https://www.hypersonicmodels.com/product/fj-2-fury-cockpit-update-set Next is a nose gear strut with the lower (corrected) yoke cast in brass and the upper resin strut with refined detail and a nickel silver rod cast inside. This not only provides the necessary strength but also eliminates the need to paint the oleo strut part. https://www.hypersonicmodels.com/product/fj-2-3-fury-nose-gear-upgrade I have one more update set for the FJ-2 in the works right now... Cheers, Jeffrey
  13. Can anyone suggest where I might find images of the C-130J cockpit. I am looking for the general layout to try and improve on the 1/72 Italeri kit for the RAF version. Thanks Alasdair
  14. Avro Lancaster B Mk.I Nose Art Kit (01E033) 1:32 HK Models The Lancaster was a development from the two-engined Manchester, which was always an unsatisfactory aircraft. The Manchester was a response to the air force's obsession with twin-engined bombers in the 30s, which would have required engines of greater power than were available at the time, and led to a change in mindset due to the comparative success of our allies with four-engined bombers. Rather than start from scratch, AVRO simply re-designed the Manchester by adding an extra wing section between the inner engine and the outer, thereby extending the wing and improving both lift and power output substantially – of course it wasn't that simple. AVRO's chief designer, the incredible Roy Chadwick submitted this design to the specification that also brought forth the designs for the Halifax and the Stirling, in a sort-of prequel to the post-war V-bombers, where the Government gave the go-ahead for all three due to the untried technology being used. The use of the then-new Merlin engine with its previously unheard-of power output put the Lancaster's various capabilities into alignment and created a rather impressive "heavy". After renaming the initial prototype Manchester III to Lancaster perhaps to distance it from its less-than-stellar twin-engined sibling, the prototype first flew in 1941, partially due to the fact that AVRO had already been working on improving the performance of the Manchester, and partly because of the urgent need for a heavy bomber capable of taking the fight (and a lot of bombs) to Berlin. A large contract for over 1,000 Lancasters was soon forthcoming, and further production was begun at AVRO Canada after an airframe was flown to them as a pattern for production. The quality of the eventual design was such that very few noticeable differences were made between the initial and later variants, with cosmetic changes such as side windows and the enlarged bomb-aimer's window being some of the few that were readily seen if we ignore the specials. The main wartime alternative to the B.I was the B.III, which differed mainly by having license-built engines that were manufactured in the US by Packard, with over 3,000 built. The installation was so close to the original, that a B.I could easily be retrofitted with a Packard built Merlin with very little problem. There were of course the "Specials" such as the Dambusters and Grandslam versions, but other than 300 or so of the Hercules radial engine Lancs, most of the in-service machines looked very similar. At the end of WWII the Lancaster carried on in service in some shape or form for long after hostilities ceased, with a name change to Lincoln when the design became mostly unrecognisable, and later the spirit of the original design lingering on in the Shackleton, which retired in the mid 1980s, 40 years after the end of WWII. The Kit The origins of this kit are the full 1:32 HK Models Lancaster B Mk.I that we reviewed here, where I pinched the preamble and some of the pictures from in case you were wondering (why reinvent the wheel?). This reduction to just the nose of that kit worked out beautifully due to the convenient break in the fuselage just past the leading edge of the wing. It’s a big portion of the detail however, as evidenced by the hefty 171 kit parts, which includes a sprue of new parts that have been tooled specifically to act as a convenient support trolley to hold the finished model. A lot of modellers have expressed an interest in the kit but baulked at the size of this well-known heavy in 1:32, and so the nose with the all-important cockpit was requested from HK Models and the other company that was planning a big Lanc, who sadly went into administration at the start of the current Covid-19 crisis. HKM have obliged with this new boxing, reusing the nose area of the artwork as well as the majority of sprues, plus the aforementioned trolley sprue, some new decals that only cover the necessary area (who has roundels on their nose?), plus a wee-small clear sprue that holds a couple of new parts. So what’s in the box? It’s not a head, so don’t fret. There are seven sprues in grey styrene and two nose halves in the same colour, two sprues of clear parts and a bonus clear starboard fuselage half to show off all your hard work, the original sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) brass containing seatbelts etc., a decal sheet and finally the new shorter instruction manual. Everything is bagged either in pairs or separately for protection, and the clear parts have additional sticky clear sheets attached to the more vulnerable areas to ensure that the parts arrive in pristine condition with no chaffing. Detail is just as good as before as you’d expect, as you can see from the pic of some of the cockpit parts below. Construction begins with the cockpit. I know, shocker, right? The prominent pilot's seat, which is made up of a substantial number of parts including PE seatbelts is large and has a highly visible location within the cockpit aperture. The cockpit floor is on two levels, and is fitted out with various equipment, including the radio-operator's station, the pilot's seat and control column on the upper level, and the instrument panel, which has controls, rudder pedals and other parts added along the way, being added to the assembly along with the side walls that have instruments moulded in, and a small extension to the front bulkhead beneath the instrument panel. More instrumentation is added to both sides of the nose interior, and if you are using the grey styrene parts, you'll need to add all the clear side windows. Attention turns toward the nose turret, with the detailed interior made up before it is cocooned inside the front and rear halves of the glazing, and as is standard with HK models, the gun barrels are separate parts that can be added later after painting, which is always good to see. The Canadian airframe has some slight colour variations inside, and needs a few holes drilling, which is covered in a scrap diagram showing which areas are painted black and interior green, with separate call-outs for the various areas of the assembly as construction proceeds, then the halves are joined and some small parts are fitted in the upper cockpit, the fairing at the base of the nose turret is inserted, and the glazing under the nose is also glued in, with a choice of two styles, the circular insert being for the Canadian version. The big glazed canopy appears almost complete as it comes off the sprues, but there are two openable panels that are separate, and the additional vision blisters need adding to the large side frames for all but the Canadian option, which is probably best done with a non-solvent adhesive to avoid fogging. I'll be using either GS-Hypo, or even Klear when the time comes, although be wary when you pull off the masking so you don't also pull off the blister if you use the latter. A small forest of antennae are fitted to the exterior depending on your decal choice, then it’s time to build up the trolley. In terms of display options, it’s your only one unless you plan on building some kind of placard or base, so let’s get on with, as the DIY solution sounds too complicated. The floor is made from two layers of framework that are laminated to create a deeper frame, and hide the ejector pin marks on the mating surface. To be certain of a good fit however, it would be wise to at least flatten them off and test-fit them in place to achieve a good join. Four castor wheels and their yokes are made up next, and they are joined by struts slotted through the frame with little round feet to take the weight off the castors and to make sure the trolley doesn’t go anywhere unexpectedly. The corners of the frame have verticals with supports added, then the finished model can be slotted in between them, relying on styrene’s flexibility to safely insert the lateral pegs into the holes in the nose. Markings The new decal sheet has some elements of the original boxing, but with a lady in white added so that you can depict one of four airframes: B MK.I R5868/OL-Q, No.83 Sqn. RAF, Wyton UK, June 1943 B MK.I R5868/PO-S, No.467 Sqn. RAAF, Waddington UK, May 1944 B MK.I W4783/AR-G, No.460 Sqn. RaAF, Binbrook UK, May 1944 B MK.I RF128/QB-V, No.424 Sqn. RCAF, Skipton-on-Swale UK, Spring 1945 Each aircraft is painted in the same green/brown over black with a high demarcation, although the location of the dark green sections are different on two of the machines. The decals and painting guides are shown on a series of three drawings showing left, right and overhead with the decals shown using numbers, while the colours are marked in letters, both in triangles. The fact that the drawings are in greyscale doesn’t really matter given the relatively small variations and low decal count, but you've also got the colour one above now too. The colours are called out by name plus AK Interactive, Tamiya and Gunze brands, which shouldn’t be difficult to find in any brand, although the Tamiya mix for Dark Earth involves mixing four colours to achieve one. I was sure that Tamiya now have a Dark Earth and Dark Green in their range now. Did I imagine that? Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion Every home should have a big Lancaster, but if you’re short on space this is the perfect compromise, with lots of detail and still with a lot of the presence of the full kit. There is already plenty of aftermarket devoted to the cockpit of the original kit that will fit this one, so you can start straight away, even if you’re addicted to aftermarket like a lot of us. Very highly recommended. Available soon from all good model shops. Review samples courtesy of
  15. Hi all, I'm a sad case as I know little about the Harvard (T-6) but I am embarking on a build of a Heller kit, converting it to a South African machine. My question is about the colour of the cockpit. Was it black throughout or were there some green sections, or something else? I'd valuie your thoughts in inputs. Thanks in advance, Martin
  16. Last year I went to Solway Aviation Museum in the Lake District. It has many great aircraft such as a Canberra, Vulcan B.2 XJ823, Lightning and many more. Hope you'll enjoy them friends. @Adam Poultneyhere's your tag. Jet provost Reg. No. XS209 EE Lightning Reg. No. ZF583 Phantom FGR.2 Reg. No. XV406 in what seemed to be a new paint job Percival Sea Prince Reg. No. WP314 Gloster Meteor NF.14 Reg. No. WS382 Hawker Hunter F.51 Reg. No. E425 (under restoration right now) De Havilland Vampire T.11 Reg. No. WZ515 And now, for what you've all been waiting for! Avro Vulcan B.2 Reg. No. XJ823 She's a beaut' ain't she. Now, the cabin. Here is the cockpit in all it's glory! Unfortunately I couldn't sit in the pilot/copilot seats as sadly there has been a history of idiots stealing and vandalising. However the navigator/bombardier area was very nice as well, surprisingly comfy Now, moving onto the Canberra T.4, Reg. No. WE188 I was allowed to get in her cockpit as well, quite interesting and a lot more spacious than I expected, although would be quite uncomfortable with 3 seats in there. Last picture, but an interesting one. The worlds last original Sikorsky-built S.55 Whirlwind, unfortunately, she's in quite a bad state right now. Hope you found this interesting.
  17. J-35 Draken Updates (for Hasegawa) 1:48 Eduard Hasegawa answered a lot of prayers when they released their kit of the venerable Saab Draken, and there have been some sets available for it previously, but these are new ones. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. There are two sets, both intended for the cockpit, with the seatbelts separated so they can be etched in the new thinner steel PE. Interior (491008) This set includes a nickel-plated pre-printed sheet and a slightly smaller fret of bare brass. It contains a complete re-vamp of the main instrument panel in two layers, additional layers for the side consoles and their smaller panel sections, plus a new throttle quadrant skin. The cockpit side walls and sills plus the turtle-deck behind the pilot is also detailed with a substantial number of new parts including addition instruments on the coaming, the lip and interior of the canopy frame are upgraded with a lot of new parts to give it an impressive look, all of which will be visible whether you leave the canopy open or not, but more so if open of course. Finally, although they're hardly interior parts, you get new oleo-scissor links and a few stencil placards on the sides for the gear legs, and the final exterior part is a small louvred intake on the tail fin. Seatbelts (FE1009) This set on the thinner steel etch contains a full set of pre-printed crew belts with the new printed simulated "depth" by shading, plus detail on the seat sides and a host of tiny placards on the head box and seat sides. You'll need to remove the upper portion of the seat back cushion and the lower leg-guides, but that shouldn't slow you down much. Review sample courtesy of
  18. So my dad bought the Tamiya 1:72 MiG-29 a while back and I am building it for him soon, I have a question about the cockpit though, is the MiG-29 cockpit turquoise like earlier Soviet/Russian jets or is it grey like newer cockpits. I am asking because I checked on the internet and I came up with mixed results, some not even the MiG-29. Thanks in advance
  19. Jonny

    HP Halifax question

    Hello ... The bulkhead immediately behind the pilot’s seat in a HP Halifax has three ‘windows’ at the top. I *think* the bulkhead was armoured, and that the ‘windows’ were glazed. Can someone please confirm that these windows were glazed, not left open? Thanks in advance, Jonny
  20. Hello all! I have been browsing Britmodeller for a couple of years while I was gathering up my modern European jet kits. I have been building mostly 1/48th USAF kits but the European jets are so cool looking and I have some history with a couple. Got the Draken, Gripen, Typhoon, Rafale, Mirage 2000, and a couple of Tornados (IDS and ADV) lined up to build. I started with the Revell Germany 1/48th Eurofighter Typhoon and got to the painting stage when I broke the canopy in half trying to get the mold line off. Revell did send me a replacement but I did not get back to it yet. While waiting on the canopy I started the Italeri 1/48th JAS-39A Gripen. I have done several searches on this and other web sites for cockpit color info but am not finding everything. I will be doing this one as a Swedich -39A single seater. Basically keeping it out of the box with no aftermarket. Question - What color are the cockpit floor and sidewalls? I couldn't find that many photos of actual aircraft cockpits. I found a few simulator and computer graphic representations, but those can't be trusted. A couple of the photos that appear to be actual cockpits show the sidewalls to be black rather than light gray. Is this correct - black sidewalls? None of the photos show the cockpit floor clearly and it just looks dark down there. One photo hints that it may be black also. Thanks for your help. In my many searches on this and other forums many of the photos are no longer displayed due to Photobucket's policy change last year. I suspect that my questions here, and those to come, were probably answered and illustrated in the past but the photos are no longer displayed.
  21. Hey everyone im looking for detailed photos of Me-262a1a cockpits. I have instrument panel photo’s but cant find a photo of the armor plate and seatbelts.
  22. Hi guys, I am working on a 1/72 Special Hobby DH-100 Vampire FB52 - building it as a Mk6 of the Swiss air force. It's just the second 1/72 kit I build. I tried to build the instrument panel by using gloss black and white to paint individual gauges/instruments. What works quite well in 1/48 looks in 1/72 just wrong. Mainly the white gauges stand out too much looking not right. The only alternative I know of is either using decals or just painting the instruments with gloss black and putting a drop of clear color over it to simulate the glass covering the instruments. Any other ways of how to get a decent 1/72 instrument panel painted right? Using decals is not my preference but might be the easiest way to go.... Cheers, Michael
  23. Does anyone out there are any references (images) for the TB-26 Invader, please? Martin
  24. OK, I know we are all getting pretty fired up to do FJ-2's right about now, and I'm sure this question isn't new, but selfishly for my benefit, could Sabrejet or Tailspin Turtle elaborate on this query? I want to get this one right! Regarding the FJ-2, on a natural metal VMF-235 Fury, would these colors be correct? Did Sword get the longer windscreen correct? Did I get this right? cockpit below consoles, seat: FS36231 dk. gull grey wheel bays, speed brake bays: FS 34151, chromate green landing gear doors, speed brake door interior, including edges: FS 31136, insignia red inner surface of slats, slat wells on wing leading edge: unpainted or dull, anodized aluminum Glad I have some spare Academy Sabre kits and Cutting Edge slat sets, as it looks like I'm going to need one of them! Mike To SJ- I'm betting the raised panels you illustrated on the kit fuselage are due to a non-original airframe being used for research, just like when they did their F3D kit. I'm looking through museum photos to see if I can find out which airplane, if any, matches the tooling on the kit.
  25. Good evening, first proper build post from me on the forums! Well it all started after a trip to the Midland Air Museum in Coventry where I got the fantastic chance to get inside an Avro Vulcan and see what it was like inside, and by god what an aircraft! I wish I had taken a lot more photographs but thanks to a thread that I found on the forums prior to joining, I found a nice walkaround inside of the cockpit. This was then followed by an enquiry to the Vulcan To The Sky Trust and after they gave me a few pages of the crew manual showing the details of both the front and rear cockpit, they also suggested getting a book which included the manual and infinitely more in-depth images. (The Vulcan Story 1952-2002 by Tim Laming) And so it began, all made of plasticard with the seat cushions made of milliput. Obviously there is still A LOT of work to do I think it is coming along nicely and the 3 panels shown at the end were made today with clear plastic used to serve as the ground scanning radar screen and a few dials. Thanks for that, cue the images! Sam And so after an hour of fannying around with Google+, Flickr and now Photobucket, the photos now work!
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