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  1. Finally got around to starting this I'm going to do the red version It's taken a while to put together the engine - lots of different paints involved for something that will mostly be hidden when complete Looking forward to getting this built 🙂
  2. This is a project that I started a year or two back but stalled because I wasn't happy with my original paint choice. I wanted to break away from the box art and also the usual Corvette reds, whites and blues that are seen everywhere. After a lot of searching I found a green and gold combination that I quite liked and which looked like a reasonable match for Tamiya TS-52 Candy Lime Green and TS-75 Champagne Gold. The TS paints went on very well and I'm delighted with the finish. I tried to spray everything body colour at the same time, with the same number of coats, to try and get the best possible match. It seems to have worked out OK. The interior parts need careful masking, the remaining grey parts will be satin black. I'm not sure if that's correct but it felt like a good colour choice to contrast the green and gold. A few other parts, the chassis is just dry fitted to the underside of the floor, but it mates up beautifully. The floor is still in primer but the colour call-out suggests that it is grey so it might stay in primer. I've got to spray the other side of the rear wheel arches in body colour. The body side panels need chrome adding to the strakes. There is a lot of detail to pick out on the door cards and some large areas of satin black to spray. Compared to the 1:32 car kits I've been working on recently this feels pleasingly chunky and well engineered, I hope I've got enough mojo back to see this through to completion. The biggest struggle in my mind now is whether to build the carburettor or fuel injection engine?
  3. Another kit completed, I pre-ordered this one as soon as it was announced because I wanted to get my hands on it. The Jaguar 420 seems like an odd subject for a kit, being a short-lived four-door saloon. That said, Airfix did a very good job of capturing the car's shape and details, even the leaping cat bonnet mascot is quite well reproduced. What was less good was the amount of flash and sink marks that needed addressing, particularly sink marks around the headlamps. I added some basic door cards to the interior as this, like many Airfix closed cars, doesn't have any detail for the insides of the doors. This isn't really visible on the finished model but at least I know it's there. I've also replaced the kit side windows with some thinner clear plastic for the quarterlights and left out the door windows entirely to provide a slightly better view of the interior. It's a pity you can't see more of the interior as the seats, dashboard and steering wheel are quite nicely reproduced. I was inspired by the box art, and the sighting of a similar real 420, to go for metallic gold, something close to Jaguar's Golden Sand. The interior is supposed to be Oxblood, this was mixed by eye mostly using Tamiya NATO brown with a bit of white and red. The dashboard was painted various tans and browns before getting an orange clear coat. There's a reasonable representation of the 4.2-litre Jaguar XK straight six under the bonnet. If you wanted, you could go to town adding all the extra reservoirs, wiring and plumbing that the kit lacks. It's also worth noting that as far as I can tell the inner wings are nothing like the ones on the real car. The underside looks pretty realistic. It's a bit of a shame that the rear suspension isn't assembled as a complete unit (as it would be in reality) before mounting to the body as it's quite difficult to get the springs located correctly. Whoever designed the front suspension is a complete sadist as the steering linkage attaches to the chassis under the front crossmember but above (from this perspective) the anti-roll bar, so has to go on after the crossmember and ARB assembly. If I did this kit again I'd probably modify the scuttle ventilation flap so that it was in the closed position, change the windscreen wipers and maybe even the windscreen glazing itself. The tyres are painted Tamiya NATO black, which I think gives a nice, realistic colour.
  4. This is an extended set of photos from the Matchbox 50th anniversary group build. I'd have preferred one of the other car subjects, but it was one of the last car kits that no-one had picked and I wanted to help fill out the range of kits built. The kit I had came from eBay and the multi-part body was partially assembled (wonky but I managed to mostly correct it). The decal sheet was absent but I bought a decal sheet from Indycals in the USA, these weren't an exact match for the originals as I think they were scaled down from decals to fit a kit of a slightly different 935. You can (or, at least, I can) spot where some splicing was required and places where the decal didn't quite want to go where I wanted it. The kit itself is very nicely moulded with no flash and what seems like a good level of detail. Fit was quite good although some holes needed opening up and the mating surfaces for parts could be very small. Probably the worst part to build was the front suspension, which is very fine and very fiddly. Anyway, here are the pictures: Tyre lettering was picked out first in white paint, then with matt yellow. The side stripes are made of three separate pieces, this side was the second one I did and turned out slightly better as a result. I found some Humbrol number 15 Midnight Blue as a good match for the Martini dark blue. This was used on the wheels, headlamp surrounds, wing end plates (the original kit decals included the background, but the replacements do not) and even touched up a few gaps in the decals. The multi-part body caused some problems with bits breaking off, you can see one of the cracks here. This is probably the best view of the modification made to the stripes to fit the NACA ducts. The engine looks a little crude here but could probably be detailed up. The engine looks a bit better from underneath, I added the ribbing to the transaxle as I didn't like the look of the plain moulding. I'm pleased that at least one of the exhaust pipes lines up, the other (wastgate?) pipe was a nightmare that only fitted where it touched a couple of other parts. It would probably be better to cut out the tail pipes from the bumper and fit some tubes to the ends of the exhaust system. You can't see much of the interior as it's mostly black, but I went for Tamiya NATO black for the seat to provide a little variety, a touch of light brown for the gear lever knob. It looks like the clear coat reacted with the decals slightly but only at the top of the bonnet/boot lid. Despite the issues, it has to be said that this built up into quite a satisfying little model.
  5. I think this is the final Matchbox car kit missing from @Rabbit Leader's build list PK-308 Porsche 935, which is in Martini colours as raced at Watkins Glen in 1976 (according to the kit packaging). It was bought on eBay on Monday evening, so I'm impressed that it arrived so quickly. It's been part started but I think it falls well under the 25% completed rule. It also needs decals as these are completely absent. On the white paper and cutting mat is everything that came in the box. This is what arrived assembled. The body shell had a slight twist when it arrived, but I soaked the shell in warm water and think I've managed to straighten it out. The parts of the body seem correctly aligned so I don't think it was an assembly error. The body needs a few more panels adding but the good thing is that it can all be assembled as a unit before being joined to the interior/floor assembly. I think the first step will be to finish assembling the body, then get it primed and painted. I don't build many competition cars, so I'm a bit nervous about this.
  6. This is my second entry for the group build, I fancied doing one of the classic 1:32 car kits. When I checked the list of Matchbox kits I thought about revisiting the Jaguar SS100 or Mercedes-Benz SSK that I built when I was young, but I fancied the idea of building one of the kits that hadn't yet been part of the group build. The two subjects that held the most appeal were the Rolls-Royce Phantom and the Citroen 11 Legere. In real life I like the Citroen as a technological pioneer and for the low, sleek lines (particularly as in the coupe and roadster modelled here). Here's the box art, I found this kit on eBay described as complete and as new. Overview of the sprues, which certainly seem to be in great condition. Most of the body parts are moulded in black. Red for the floor, interior and engine. Rubber tyres with "Michelin X" and size markings moulded into the sidewalls and a tread pattern (is it authentic?). Lots of chrome parts; some make sense (e.g. the bumpers) and some don't (e.g. the suspension parts). The worst element is the glazing, which is full of mould marks and distortion. I may try cutting new glass out of clear plastic sheet. The kit can be built either as a coupe or roaster and the box art gives some nice inspiration for alternate colour schemes. It is also tempting to assemble the kit just in its multicolour plastic glory. You even get the option of having the bonnet open and a rear dicky-seat. Here's a quick overview of the instructions, for a small and fairly old model it is quite complex and detailed. The multi-part body looks like it might be a challenge to assemble and paint. My current thoughts are to go for the roadster version (better to show off the interior and dashboard), in a light colour for the body, or maybe a two-tone. I'll have a look at pictures of real Traction Avant roadsters for inspiration. I don't build many 1:32 scale cars (or 1:32 anything) but this looks like a step up in quality and detail from the 1:32 Airfix car kits that I've built. I hope you'll enjoy the build journey with me.
  7. I'm a bit late to the party because my mental health has (for some reason) put me off posting, although it hasn't put me off actual modelling. I've seen that @Six97s is also doing a build of this kit. Although I'm not a massive Volkswagen fan I've got a soft spot for the Scirocco, particularly in later Mk1 form. This kit looks like it is an early Mk1 example, which is something I didn't even know existed until I started looking into the history of the real car (at some point Volkswagen facelifted the Scirocco with wraparound front indicators and more of a front air dam). This is the kit as it arrived last year. A closer look at the parts, the kit was part started, but all of that work needed undoing. Laying the parts out for inspection. The engine was glued together very badly but I managed to get most of it apart. Tyres, decals and axles. Parts still on the sprue. This is the majority of the racing parts, which won't be used in this build. Shiny bits. It's great that AMT provided two-part seats, less so that someone glued them together like this! First stage was to assemble all the body panels as it seemed better to get all these together and fitted neatly before painting. There were a few sink marks that needed filling and some faint seam lines to remove. I also decided to remove the US-specification side marker lights from the body moulding. Some Halfords filler primer was used to help tidy up the corners although the crease in the wings is now not quite as sharp as it probably should be. I debated going with a metallic blue of green but that wouldn't be right for this age of Scirocco, so I decided to stick with red, hence the red primer. The colour call outs also recommend "brick red" for the interior carpet and parcel shelf, so I'll leave those in the primer finish. Primer, incidentally, is Halfords red plastic primer. The part of any car build that I find most difficult is getting a decent paint finish, so that needs to be my focus before I get distracted by too much of the engine or interior build.
  8. My build of Dom's Charger Revell kit from The Fast and the Furious. Painted with Tamiya TS paints, with some light weathering done with oils and pigments. To modify the kit to be a bit more accurate to the movie, I added more supports for the roll bar, trimmed the license plate off the front, omitted the passenger seat, and moved a fire extinguisher to the floor. Also pictured is a comparison with my first ever model kit build, the '68 Charger. I'm very proud of the progress I've made the last 3 years of model building.
  9. My build of the 1989 Batmobile by AMT, done with Tamiya TS paints. Air intake mesh was from a scrap piece of mesh from a Revell Ferrari Enzo.
  10. first ready for inspection please be kind! Thanks everyone who offered advice here to fix my paint work Fairly happy with it, just ignore the disaster I had with the a pillar :/ made a few usual mistakes but generally happy with the finished result will be better next time R34 Skyline next! Supra 1 Supra 2 Supra 3 Supra 4
  11. Foster1258

    Help

    hi everyone long time admirer of everyone brilliant builds on here and have a few of my own I will post when I get confident i do need help with my current supra build though. after priming and sanding lightly the paintwork is very poor what would everyone recommend? More coats or scrap and re do!? https://imgur.com/a/HMBsCbx
  12. Hello fellow modellers, I have been dying to ask this question but haven't got many answers. I want to attempt a custom wideobody on a 1/24 scale car. It is virtually impossible to get tamiya 2 part epoxy putty in the uk from my experience. If you know anywhere that sells it please let me know. I have looked around and milliput seems to be coming up a lot. Which type of milliput would be the best for my purpose as there is the standard, turquoise, black, white etc. If not milliput what else could I use that would work well. I have heard about greenstuff but it seems to have mixed reviews.
  13. This is my build of the Lamborghini Aventador Anniversario from Aoshima. Done with Tamiya spray paints. [/url
  14. Hi Everyone. It has been a while but I am still plodding along with my kit building when I can. Those who know of me will know that I usually like to add lighting to my builds but as there isn't any kits that take my fancy at present I am building some kits without lighting. This is my latest project, the 1:25 scale Revell '55 Chevy Indy Pace Car. I'm not really into highly polished showroom cars but one thing that always gets our attention is all of the chrome parts that these kits usually have and this is one of those kits. I believe that it must be an old moulding or something as one of the most annoying things is the way the chrome parts are fixed to the sprue. Nearly all of the chrome parts are fixed where cutting them from the sprue means you have that underneath plastic colour showing through. I think the more modern kits tend to fix the parts to area's that will not be seen. Overall, this was not a bad build as there was minimal flashing and all of the parts fitted together ok without the need for much filling. There is a lot of nice detail on the engine but I dded ignition and battery leads as well some extra hoses not included in the kit. It is nice that the bonnet lifts up to show the engine though. The only problem that I had was when I stuck my finger to the windscreen using superglue. Somehow I managed to polish it out and I may have got away with it. So I hope you enjoy viewing my post as much as I enjoy viewing some of the amazing builds shown in the forums. More pictures can be found HERE as well as a video HERE Thanks for viewing.
  15. The following article popped up in my Facebook feed the other day, it's about cleaning up and "detailing" as in polishing model cars. It's more about diecast models but might work for plastic kits, especially if painted with automotive paint. I didn't want to post the article without trying it myself and I happened to find a Bburago Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa that I built from a kit a long time ago. I think I was a teenager, no idea if you can even buy these kits any more. Link here to article. Here it is in "barn find" condition having sat in an open box in my loft for several years: I must have made this thirty years ago or so. I tried to add some painted detail to the interior tub (moulded in gloss black plastic I think). The advice is to use air duster to blow away dust then fine brushes (the following picture shows after dust removal). Then use an automotive quick detailer spray and a microfibre cloth to clean and polish (hopefully you can see the difference between the two halves of the rear deck). You can see how much dust was picked up and the spray used Finally in the "photo studio" This last one is my own invention; I created a black "infinity cove" with three black storage cases, illuminated with my desk lamp.
  16. Waiting to be able to go out and get some paint for the other builds I stumbled on this box in the stash and knew I had to built it in this GB.
  17. Just finished this kit, and really pleased with the outcome. No real issues with it, apart from the bonnet fit which was terrible.
  18. Revell Porsche 934rsr Martini 1:24 The Porsche 934 is the race version of the iconic 911 Turbo, built for the group 4 FIA rules for the 1976 season. By the time it was replaced in 1978 41 had been produced for the race track. It had a 3l flat six engine mounted at the rear producing from 480-550 bhp. Revell have produced a kit of this car in the classic Martini team colours to sit alongside the other versions including the orange Jargermeister version. This kit is classed as a level 3 kit and is in the normal flimsy end opening box, that is packed with plastic. The body shell is a single part and has some large re-enforcing gates over the windows and the gates are wide so will need care when removing. Under the bonnet at the front is a fairly well detailed area with he fuel cell and battery represented. The rest of the kit is over 7 sprues, the body parts are in white, and grey and black for the other parts, the chrome wheels, and a clear sprue. All the parts are well cast with no flash on the review kit. The chrome is nice and done to scale and doesn’t look toy like. Construction starts with the transmission, and this is joined to the engine block and this is a well detailed assembly with nice cast detail. Careful painting will be needed, the engine lid can be made to open, but even if glued shut it can be seen through the finely cast grills on the lid. The detail extends to the separate drive shafts, and 6 branch manifold. The massive turbo is added to the back of the engine before completing and adding to the chassis. Looking the engine can be left out till the end of the build if wanted and fitted from below. The wheels are BBS multi-spoke type, with the rear being wider. Behind the rim sits a brake disc, with a detailed drilled surface and caliper. Inside is a basic cockpit, there wasn’t much technology back in the late 70’s but some nice bucket seats with a roll cage building up a tub. The dashboard fits on the bodyshell from below before the interior is slid in. The painting instructions refer to the Revell paint range, and the list of required colours is listed on the box for you to check you have them in stock before leaving the shop. The decals sheet is to the usual Revell standard, crisp and well printed with some fine small details for the 1976 season with the Martini team. The C in the number would indicate these are printed by Cartograf. Overall a good model of this iconic car. Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  19. Revell 1:25 '68 Chevy Chevelle SS 396 I am obsessed with American car shows, Fast ‘n Loud with Gas Monkey garage being my favourite. Richard Rawlings scours the ‘Interweb’ for old classic cars and re-builds them or flips them for a few dollars profit. The ’68 Chevy SS would be a prime candidate for the monkeys to get their hands on, and when this 1:25 scale Chevy landed on the doormat I was very happy! The 68 Chevy SS, SS is for Super Sport is powered by an all American 6.5L (or 396 cubic inches) V8. The Chevelle SS is a popular muscle car, and many have been restored or modified by their owners worldwide. This is a new tool kit to represent this car. The body shell is a single part incorporating the doors and boot with only the bonnet needing adding separately. All the parts are crisp as expected and there isn’t any flash on the review sample. The kit is over 7 sprues, 5 in white plastic, a chrome sprue and a clear sprue. The rear lights are done in a clear red, and the final bits are 4 rubber tyres with tread detail. Colours are referenced to the Revell range and they are listed on the outside of the box so you can check what you will need before you leave the shop. The box is the flimsy end opening Revell box. The instructions start with the V8 and transmission, the block and ‘tranny’ is in two parts, with the heads and ancillary parts added. As the bonnet is separate you can add some plumbing and wiring to the engine. The distributor is included and can be drilled out and HT leads from the dizzy to the plugs would be a simple addition. The engine can be built as a unit and added later to the chassis frame. The frame is a separate part to the floor pan, and it looks like you could build the chassis, and suspension as a separate unit before adding to the floor and body. If you have watched some of these car shows, they often build the rolling chassis before adding the painted and detailed body. The interior is built into a tub, and it is nicely detailed. You can follow the blacks and greys on the instructions or go all out with the colours of seats and trim with a custom look. You have an option with the wheels, original spec, or optional style. The are on the chrome sprue, and as with other newer Revell kits the chrome is nice, and not too bright and toy like. The tyres have a red line on the side wall, and you can have this on the outside or inside to hide it. The body is finished with the chrome bumpers, and the grill with lights. The Bonnet has hinges so you can glue it shut, or have it working to show off the engine. There is a nice decal sheet and it includes the lap-style seat belts for the front seats, and the racing stripes to go over the body in a choice of white to go on a black car, or black for a red car. There are various badges and details for the body, interior and engine bay along with a choice of American Ohio state plates, and different European registrations for an imported car. A nice kit of a ‘compact’ American muscle car, can be done stock, or as a full custom build with a nice interior and paint job on the outside. Another quality model from Revell Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  20. Decided to get back into modelling as find it quite therapeutic and love making things. This is the first model I have made in over 10 years so taking some time!! Found the Tamiya MP4/8 kit and the S27 Carbon decals on eBay. Also purchased the photo etched kit which I'll use some of, a full set of decals and an old Tamiya driver & engineer set I'll try to incorporate Here are some pics of my progress so far: Managed to add some small valves to the wheels using some cut down rivets from the PE kit Still a lot more carbon work to do on the floor but not looking too bad! Used BMF for the silver detail Totally messed up the paint on engine cover with an orange bleed so currently sanding ready to start again 😥 That's it for now. Just need some spare time to get some more done!
  21. While looking for something else, I came across this: https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/824087/maserati-forumla-one-racing-scale-model-car-auction It piqued my nterest enough to put here, even though the auction took place in 2017.
  22. Hi All, The rule is as simple as this: If it's a motorbike, car or truck, it's in (including AFVs) !! Sport, Rally, Road, Commercial, Recreational, Old, New, Military, Public; the list is endless. wimbledon99 (Co-Host ) Black Knight Col. (Co-Host ) Angus Tura Redstaff spaddad Hockeyboy76 Knight_Flyer nimrod54 Arniec vppelt68 Mancunian airman Dazzio CliffB Sgt.Squarehead Graham77 Hewy Paul821 richellis Wonkey Donkey helios16v Romeo Delta PlaStix trickyrich milktrip Threadbear modelling minion krow113 specky badger JeroenS
  23. Hi Everyone, Thanks for having me! I'm a total newbie to Britmodller or indeed posting models on any forum but this place seems to have some really high quality builders/artists. I want to improve my techniques so I'm here to learn from the best. I could quite easily just lurk on here, appreciating everyone's efforts but I've forced myself to post this in order to get better at this great hobby! Nothing like a bit of pressure to get the best out of ya! Like most, I stated modelling as a kid then had a short break of about 25 years. A few years ago, I got the Tamiya Williams FW14b 1/12 scale as a present. After such a long hiatus, I thought I best buy a couple of kits to remind myself what to do. I finished those over a couple of years then something clicked about a year ago and I've really got back into it. I've still not touched the Williams because I am a) scared and fully aware I don't yet have the technical ability to do the kit justice, or at least to the level I want. The great thing about coming back to modelling is being able to now buy all the cool kit that does make a big difference to the finish including airbrushes and really sharp knives which I wasn't allowed when I was 7. I mainly build cars as that's my interest but I do have some nice planes to build so I'll maybe do one of those next. So this is my fifth model since I started back and it's the fourth car. It's a Lotus Type 78 1977, Ronnie Peterson car. The kit is a Tamiya, which in my limited experience, are really easy to work with and excellently made. For painting, I used Tamiya TS-14 for the body with a (probably too thick) Zero paints 2pk lacquer gloss finish. I used Tamiya acrylics for all the parts that weren't metal. For all the metal parts, engine, gearbox, exhaust etc, I used various paints in the fantastic Alclad range. I did try to weather the exhaust with Alclad's 'manifold' paint as well. The photos are actually quite kind to the gloss black finish because I managed to get a good amount of dust under each layer. I have since read a great painting guide on here so I'm looking forward to using that on my next project. I'm still happy with the smoothness of the gloss, though I would say that's got a lot to do with how good the Zero paints system is. Anyway, feel free to make some constructive criticism as I am fully aware there is loads of work to be done yet!
  24. Hi While renewing all of the pictures of the builds that I have done because of this Photobucket saga, I came across a few pictures of the build in progress for this kit. They show some of the details that are not visible when the kit was finished. The link to the finished build can be found in the RFI section or by clicking HERE Thanks for viewing.
  25. 'Surf Woody' custom car 1:25 kit from AMT Here we have something completely different, a scale model of a car built by George Barris of Barris Kustoms in the USA. If you don’t know the Barris name you probably know his work including the original Batmobile (from the 60s TV series) and many more film and TV vehicles. The ‘Surf Woody’ was created to carry a motorised surf board with its twin rear wheels to help it drive on the beach and with this kit you can build one of 3 versions, the Surf Woody, Surf Hearse or as a Street Rod. The kit comes in box and is packed with parts, most of the kit is moulded in a bright orange with a couple of chrome sprues and the clear parts, remember it is an old kit so there is flash on the parts, nothing that will take too much to trim and sand clean. In the box you get a nice booklet showing pictures of the real car, a nice touch as details on the real vehicles are sparse as the real one seems to have vanished into a garage or barn presently. The build starts with the much modified Ford Cobra engine and there is a lot of chrome parts, I will be stripping the chrome and redoing myself as the chrome looks a little ‘toy’ like and some parts will need joining, the seams dealing with. The engine is a typical customised engine with a couple of massive supercharges poking out of the bonnet (hood) and with some help from the booklet you could add some detail to the engine with some HT leads and other cables. The instructions now move on to the tubular chassis along with the axles and suspension with some nice fine parts that will make a well detailed unit, including the Mercedes rear axle system and the front beam type axle. There are differences here between the 3 vehicles so you will need to make a decision on the version your building. The wheels are also built up in this stage, they all have ‘astro’ style rims with big duel wheels for the Surf and Hearse Woodys the wheels finish with some rubber tyres with white rings on the wall, be careful here as 2 tyres have tread for the front wheels, and there are 4 slick tyres for the back axle that are slightly taller too. Read, look again, and check you have the correct parts for the version you are building as the instructions are not very clear. Section 3 splits in two, depending on what you build, firstly the Surf or Hearse woody, the seats are very unusual being ‘Airfoam’ seats, basically lots of narrow horizontal cushions on a shaped frame that in the real vehicle ‘rock in a wave like motion’ possibly not great if you get car sick! You also get the luxury of a Sony TV, car phone and a Muntz 6 speaker stereo with tape player, but oddly no steering wheel or column? The roadster has more conventional seats and a steering wheel! Both versions have a chrome fuel tank made from a 10-gallon beer keg behind the seats. The main body comes as a single moulded part in the same orange plastic, there are some strengthening bars that need removing, 2 at the back and one at the front, don’t remove the one closest to the front as this needs to stay. In the nose is a headlamp pod that is built up and sandwiched between the upper body and a lower nose, if you are careful this can be made to rotate between the clean nose, or to show the horizontal fluorescent tube headlamps. Now the 3 versions split on the instructions to finish the upper body, both the hearse and the woody have a box type body that has some large decals for the murals on the sides, with the roadster getting a flat rear deck and low windscreen. You get a clear sprue, and a second that has a retro orange tint, both are the same so you can choose to suit your build. Both look to a scale thickness and they are bagged separately to save them from getting scratched in the box. A decals sheet is included and is well printed it includes some nice surfer murals for the surf woody, with some wood effect decals for the outside of the body, and other details and scrolls for the bodywork. The sheet gives details of where each decal should go, but take your time as some will need to be applied before putting the parts together, study the construction sequence again before making a start on this build. In the box you get a stand/ backdrop for your finished model, this comes flat and will need folding and sticking together to get the best from it, mine is just temporarily held for the photo. Conclusion Now this is something completely different, straight from the mind of George Barris, onto your model bench! Not the most straight forward instructions I’ve seen, so go through the option you want to build, and make a plan of action! One for someone who likes something unusual! Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
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