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  1. My build of the 1989 Batmobile by AMT, done with Tamiya TS paints. Air intake mesh was from a scrap piece of mesh from a Revell Ferrari Enzo.
  2. My build of Dom's Charger Revell kit from The Fast and the Furious. Painted with Tamiya TS paints, with some light weathering done with oils and pigments. To modify the kit to be a bit more accurate to the movie, I added more supports for the roll bar, trimmed the license plate off the front, omitted the passenger seat, and moved a fire extinguisher to the floor. Also pictured is a comparison with my first ever model kit build, the '68 Charger. I'm very proud of the progress I've made the last 3 years of model building.
  3. first ready for inspection please be kind! Thanks everyone who offered advice here to fix my paint work Fairly happy with it, just ignore the disaster I had with the a pillar :/ made a few usual mistakes but generally happy with the finished result will be better next time R34 Skyline next! Supra 1 Supra 2 Supra 3 Supra 4
  4. Foster1258

    Help

    hi everyone long time admirer of everyone brilliant builds on here and have a few of my own I will post when I get confident i do need help with my current supra build though. after priming and sanding lightly the paintwork is very poor what would everyone recommend? More coats or scrap and re do!? https://imgur.com/a/HMBsCbx
  5. Hello fellow modellers, I have been dying to ask this question but haven't got many answers. I want to attempt a custom wideobody on a 1/24 scale car. It is virtually impossible to get tamiya 2 part epoxy putty in the uk from my experience. If you know anywhere that sells it please let me know. I have looked around and milliput seems to be coming up a lot. Which type of milliput would be the best for my purpose as there is the standard, turquoise, black, white etc. If not milliput what else could I use that would work well. I have heard about greenstuff but it seems to have mixed reviews.
  6. Hi All, The rule is as simple as this: If it's a motorbike, car or truck, it's in (including AFVs) !! Sport, Rally, Road, Commercial, Recreational, Old, New, Military, Public; the list is endless. wimbledon99 (Co-Host ) Black Knight Col. (Co-Host ) Angus Tura Redstaff spaddad Hockeyboy76 Knight_Flyer nimrod54 Arniec vppelt68 Mancunian airman Dazzio CliffB Sgt.Squarehead Graham77 Hewy Paul821 richellis Wonkey Donkey helios16v Romeo Delta PlaStix trickyrich milktrip Threadbear modelling minion krow113 specky badger JeroenS
  7. This is my build of the Lamborghini Aventador Anniversario from Aoshima. Done with Tamiya spray paints. [/url
  8. Hi Everyone. It has been a while but I am still plodding along with my kit building when I can. Those who know of me will know that I usually like to add lighting to my builds but as there isn't any kits that take my fancy at present I am building some kits without lighting. This is my latest project, the 1:25 scale Revell '55 Chevy Indy Pace Car. I'm not really into highly polished showroom cars but one thing that always gets our attention is all of the chrome parts that these kits usually have and this is one of those kits. I believe that it must be an old moulding or something as one of the most annoying things is the way the chrome parts are fixed to the sprue. Nearly all of the chrome parts are fixed where cutting them from the sprue means you have that underneath plastic colour showing through. I think the more modern kits tend to fix the parts to area's that will not be seen. Overall, this was not a bad build as there was minimal flashing and all of the parts fitted together ok without the need for much filling. There is a lot of nice detail on the engine but I dded ignition and battery leads as well some extra hoses not included in the kit. It is nice that the bonnet lifts up to show the engine though. The only problem that I had was when I stuck my finger to the windscreen using superglue. Somehow I managed to polish it out and I may have got away with it. So I hope you enjoy viewing my post as much as I enjoy viewing some of the amazing builds shown in the forums. More pictures can be found HERE as well as a video HERE Thanks for viewing.
  9. Revell 1:25 '68 Chevy Chevelle SS 396 I am obsessed with American car shows, Fast ‘n Loud with Gas Monkey garage being my favourite. Richard Rawlings scours the ‘Interweb’ for old classic cars and re-builds them or flips them for a few dollars profit. The ’68 Chevy SS would be a prime candidate for the monkeys to get their hands on, and when this 1:25 scale Chevy landed on the doormat I was very happy! The 68 Chevy SS, SS is for Super Sport is powered by an all American 6.5L (or 396 cubic inches) V8. The Chevelle SS is a popular muscle car, and many have been restored or modified by their owners worldwide. This is a new tool kit to represent this car. The body shell is a single part incorporating the doors and boot with only the bonnet needing adding separately. All the parts are crisp as expected and there isn’t any flash on the review sample. The kit is over 7 sprues, 5 in white plastic, a chrome sprue and a clear sprue. The rear lights are done in a clear red, and the final bits are 4 rubber tyres with tread detail. Colours are referenced to the Revell range and they are listed on the outside of the box so you can check what you will need before you leave the shop. The box is the flimsy end opening Revell box. The instructions start with the V8 and transmission, the block and ‘tranny’ is in two parts, with the heads and ancillary parts added. As the bonnet is separate you can add some plumbing and wiring to the engine. The distributor is included and can be drilled out and HT leads from the dizzy to the plugs would be a simple addition. The engine can be built as a unit and added later to the chassis frame. The frame is a separate part to the floor pan, and it looks like you could build the chassis, and suspension as a separate unit before adding to the floor and body. If you have watched some of these car shows, they often build the rolling chassis before adding the painted and detailed body. The interior is built into a tub, and it is nicely detailed. You can follow the blacks and greys on the instructions or go all out with the colours of seats and trim with a custom look. You have an option with the wheels, original spec, or optional style. The are on the chrome sprue, and as with other newer Revell kits the chrome is nice, and not too bright and toy like. The tyres have a red line on the side wall, and you can have this on the outside or inside to hide it. The body is finished with the chrome bumpers, and the grill with lights. The Bonnet has hinges so you can glue it shut, or have it working to show off the engine. There is a nice decal sheet and it includes the lap-style seat belts for the front seats, and the racing stripes to go over the body in a choice of white to go on a black car, or black for a red car. There are various badges and details for the body, interior and engine bay along with a choice of American Ohio state plates, and different European registrations for an imported car. A nice kit of a ‘compact’ American muscle car, can be done stock, or as a full custom build with a nice interior and paint job on the outside. Another quality model from Revell Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  10. The following article popped up in my Facebook feed the other day, it's about cleaning up and "detailing" as in polishing model cars. It's more about diecast models but might work for plastic kits, especially if painted with automotive paint. I didn't want to post the article without trying it myself and I happened to find a Bburago Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa that I built from a kit a long time ago. I think I was a teenager, no idea if you can even buy these kits any more. Link here to article. Here it is in "barn find" condition having sat in an open box in my loft for several years: I must have made this thirty years ago or so. I tried to add some painted detail to the interior tub (moulded in gloss black plastic I think). The advice is to use air duster to blow away dust then fine brushes (the following picture shows after dust removal). Then use an automotive quick detailer spray and a microfibre cloth to clean and polish (hopefully you can see the difference between the two halves of the rear deck). You can see how much dust was picked up and the spray used Finally in the "photo studio" This last one is my own invention; I created a black "infinity cove" with three black storage cases, illuminated with my desk lamp.
  11. Waiting to be able to go out and get some paint for the other builds I stumbled on this box in the stash and knew I had to built it in this GB.
  12. Just finished this kit, and really pleased with the outcome. No real issues with it, apart from the bonnet fit which was terrible.
  13. Revell Porsche 934rsr Martini 1:24 The Porsche 934 is the race version of the iconic 911 Turbo, built for the group 4 FIA rules for the 1976 season. By the time it was replaced in 1978 41 had been produced for the race track. It had a 3l flat six engine mounted at the rear producing from 480-550 bhp. Revell have produced a kit of this car in the classic Martini team colours to sit alongside the other versions including the orange Jargermeister version. This kit is classed as a level 3 kit and is in the normal flimsy end opening box, that is packed with plastic. The body shell is a single part and has some large re-enforcing gates over the windows and the gates are wide so will need care when removing. Under the bonnet at the front is a fairly well detailed area with he fuel cell and battery represented. The rest of the kit is over 7 sprues, the body parts are in white, and grey and black for the other parts, the chrome wheels, and a clear sprue. All the parts are well cast with no flash on the review kit. The chrome is nice and done to scale and doesn’t look toy like. Construction starts with the transmission, and this is joined to the engine block and this is a well detailed assembly with nice cast detail. Careful painting will be needed, the engine lid can be made to open, but even if glued shut it can be seen through the finely cast grills on the lid. The detail extends to the separate drive shafts, and 6 branch manifold. The massive turbo is added to the back of the engine before completing and adding to the chassis. Looking the engine can be left out till the end of the build if wanted and fitted from below. The wheels are BBS multi-spoke type, with the rear being wider. Behind the rim sits a brake disc, with a detailed drilled surface and caliper. Inside is a basic cockpit, there wasn’t much technology back in the late 70’s but some nice bucket seats with a roll cage building up a tub. The dashboard fits on the bodyshell from below before the interior is slid in. The painting instructions refer to the Revell paint range, and the list of required colours is listed on the box for you to check you have them in stock before leaving the shop. The decals sheet is to the usual Revell standard, crisp and well printed with some fine small details for the 1976 season with the Martini team. The C in the number would indicate these are printed by Cartograf. Overall a good model of this iconic car. Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  14. Decided to get back into modelling as find it quite therapeutic and love making things. This is the first model I have made in over 10 years so taking some time!! Found the Tamiya MP4/8 kit and the S27 Carbon decals on eBay. Also purchased the photo etched kit which I'll use some of, a full set of decals and an old Tamiya driver & engineer set I'll try to incorporate Here are some pics of my progress so far: Managed to add some small valves to the wheels using some cut down rivets from the PE kit Still a lot more carbon work to do on the floor but not looking too bad! Used BMF for the silver detail Totally messed up the paint on engine cover with an orange bleed so currently sanding ready to start again That's it for now. Just need some spare time to get some more done!
  15. While looking for something else, I came across this: https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/824087/maserati-forumla-one-racing-scale-model-car-auction It piqued my nterest enough to put here, even though the auction took place in 2017.
  16. Hi Everyone, Thanks for having me! I'm a total newbie to Britmodller or indeed posting models on any forum but this place seems to have some really high quality builders/artists. I want to improve my techniques so I'm here to learn from the best. I could quite easily just lurk on here, appreciating everyone's efforts but I've forced myself to post this in order to get better at this great hobby! Nothing like a bit of pressure to get the best out of ya! Like most, I stated modelling as a kid then had a short break of about 25 years. A few years ago, I got the Tamiya Williams FW14b 1/12 scale as a present. After such a long hiatus, I thought I best buy a couple of kits to remind myself what to do. I finished those over a couple of years then something clicked about a year ago and I've really got back into it. I've still not touched the Williams because I am a) scared and fully aware I don't yet have the technical ability to do the kit justice, or at least to the level I want. The great thing about coming back to modelling is being able to now buy all the cool kit that does make a big difference to the finish including airbrushes and really sharp knives which I wasn't allowed when I was 7. I mainly build cars as that's my interest but I do have some nice planes to build so I'll maybe do one of those next. So this is my fifth model since I started back and it's the fourth car. It's a Lotus Type 78 1977, Ronnie Peterson car. The kit is a Tamiya, which in my limited experience, are really easy to work with and excellently made. For painting, I used Tamiya TS-14 for the body with a (probably too thick) Zero paints 2pk lacquer gloss finish. I used Tamiya acrylics for all the parts that weren't metal. For all the metal parts, engine, gearbox, exhaust etc, I used various paints in the fantastic Alclad range. I did try to weather the exhaust with Alclad's 'manifold' paint as well. The photos are actually quite kind to the gloss black finish because I managed to get a good amount of dust under each layer. I have since read a great painting guide on here so I'm looking forward to using that on my next project. I'm still happy with the smoothness of the gloss, though I would say that's got a lot to do with how good the Zero paints system is. Anyway, feel free to make some constructive criticism as I am fully aware there is loads of work to be done yet!
  17. Hi While renewing all of the pictures of the builds that I have done because of this Photobucket saga, I came across a few pictures of the build in progress for this kit. They show some of the details that are not visible when the kit was finished. The link to the finished build can be found in the RFI section or by clicking HERE Thanks for viewing.
  18. 'Surf Woody' custom car 1:25 kit from AMT Here we have something completely different, a scale model of a car built by George Barris of Barris Kustoms in the USA. If you don’t know the Barris name you probably know his work including the original Batmobile (from the 60s TV series) and many more film and TV vehicles. The ‘Surf Woody’ was created to carry a motorised surf board with its twin rear wheels to help it drive on the beach and with this kit you can build one of 3 versions, the Surf Woody, Surf Hearse or as a Street Rod. The kit comes in box and is packed with parts, most of the kit is moulded in a bright orange with a couple of chrome sprues and the clear parts, remember it is an old kit so there is flash on the parts, nothing that will take too much to trim and sand clean. In the box you get a nice booklet showing pictures of the real car, a nice touch as details on the real vehicles are sparse as the real one seems to have vanished into a garage or barn presently. The build starts with the much modified Ford Cobra engine and there is a lot of chrome parts, I will be stripping the chrome and redoing myself as the chrome looks a little ‘toy’ like and some parts will need joining, the seams dealing with. The engine is a typical customised engine with a couple of massive supercharges poking out of the bonnet (hood) and with some help from the booklet you could add some detail to the engine with some HT leads and other cables. The instructions now move on to the tubular chassis along with the axles and suspension with some nice fine parts that will make a well detailed unit, including the Mercedes rear axle system and the front beam type axle. There are differences here between the 3 vehicles so you will need to make a decision on the version your building. The wheels are also built up in this stage, they all have ‘astro’ style rims with big duel wheels for the Surf and Hearse Woodys the wheels finish with some rubber tyres with white rings on the wall, be careful here as 2 tyres have tread for the front wheels, and there are 4 slick tyres for the back axle that are slightly taller too. Read, look again, and check you have the correct parts for the version you are building as the instructions are not very clear. Section 3 splits in two, depending on what you build, firstly the Surf or Hearse woody, the seats are very unusual being ‘Airfoam’ seats, basically lots of narrow horizontal cushions on a shaped frame that in the real vehicle ‘rock in a wave like motion’ possibly not great if you get car sick! You also get the luxury of a Sony TV, car phone and a Muntz 6 speaker stereo with tape player, but oddly no steering wheel or column? The roadster has more conventional seats and a steering wheel! Both versions have a chrome fuel tank made from a 10-gallon beer keg behind the seats. The main body comes as a single moulded part in the same orange plastic, there are some strengthening bars that need removing, 2 at the back and one at the front, don’t remove the one closest to the front as this needs to stay. In the nose is a headlamp pod that is built up and sandwiched between the upper body and a lower nose, if you are careful this can be made to rotate between the clean nose, or to show the horizontal fluorescent tube headlamps. Now the 3 versions split on the instructions to finish the upper body, both the hearse and the woody have a box type body that has some large decals for the murals on the sides, with the roadster getting a flat rear deck and low windscreen. You get a clear sprue, and a second that has a retro orange tint, both are the same so you can choose to suit your build. Both look to a scale thickness and they are bagged separately to save them from getting scratched in the box. A decals sheet is included and is well printed it includes some nice surfer murals for the surf woody, with some wood effect decals for the outside of the body, and other details and scrolls for the bodywork. The sheet gives details of where each decal should go, but take your time as some will need to be applied before putting the parts together, study the construction sequence again before making a start on this build. In the box you get a stand/ backdrop for your finished model, this comes flat and will need folding and sticking together to get the best from it, mine is just temporarily held for the photo. Conclusion Now this is something completely different, straight from the mind of George Barris, onto your model bench! Not the most straight forward instructions I’ve seen, so go through the option you want to build, and make a plan of action! One for someone who likes something unusual! Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  19. One of the few models where I have not added any lights to. I really had a close look but I did not think I would have the patience to add any with such little space to work in. So this is the finished article. Despite the pictures it does have a glossy sheen to it but I need to study and work harder at improving that side of things. Looking at KonaDawgs finished kit I lost heart, as his finished model is amazing. I've never had the patience regarding polishing and have tried a few short (cheap) cuts but it seems I will have to invest in the decent materials and just sit and polish and buff, sit and polish and buff, sit and polish and buff,sit and polish and buff......... The good thing is that I am getting used to airbrushing and the final body coats are looking acceptable. So, hopefully on my next build (the 1:24 scale Revell Schlingmann HLF 20- possibly with working lights) I may perfect the polishing side of things. Anyway, thanks for viewing my pictures and I look forward to any feedback.
  20. A quick question: What type of car would be used by a german WW1 pilot? in 1/32 - would it be german - like a Mercedes or could it be any sort of car? I'm contemplating doing a vignette in 1/32 and would like to include a car, but which one? Can I use any of Airfix' classic carkits? Can you help? Cheers Hans J
  21. Good morning, as my Kawasaki ZX-14 build is nearing completion, I am planning to start on this one next. I haven't made up my mind which colour to go with yet, but i think I might have a go with some Zero paints, especially as they do colour-matched paints for this car. I know a couple of companies make PE sets for this kit, so I may have a look at those too. Any advice you may have on using Zero paints, and building car kits in general, gratefully received! Stayed tuned, I'll put some pictures up later. Cheers, Andrew
  22. Hi Everyone, Here is my 2nd completed project of 2015. This is Revell's 1:24 scale Volkswagen Beetle New Style. This is an almost exact replica of my own car. The colour is very similar and as the model was made in Germany, the model is left hand drive rather than the UKs right hand drive. The kit is painted in Tamiya X-4 blue and black paint. Anyway here are the photos. Thanks as always for looking. Cheers, Rick
  23. Ferrari 250 GTO 1:24 Revell plastic kit The Ferrari 250 GTO was developed as a homogenisation car for Ferrari to enter the FIA group 3 GT car category, built between 1962-64 the GTO means Gran Turismo Omologata in Italian, or Grand Turismo Homologated in English, only 39 where built. The Tubular chassis holds the 3l V12 engine up front, driving the rear wheels through a 5 speed manual gear box. The car carries a Berlinetta style body, (Italian for sporty couple) that was designed using a wind tunnel and track testing; it was unusual in not being designed by a design house or an individual person. The 250GTO has become a big collector’s car, with only 39 genuine examples being build the demand is high, driving prices well into the millions, with one belonging to Sir Sterling Moss selling for $35million in 2012 Revell have given us a Ferrari 250GTO in 1:24, giving the option of chassis Number 3757 in its Le Mans 1962 colours, or later while owned by Nick Mason or a silver car, chassis 3851 as raced by Henri Orellier at Montlery in 1962. Construction kicks off with the engine, it’s a copy of the 3 Colombol V12 from the Testa Rossa with the engine being made from a number of parts, the block is in 2 parts with ancillary parts being added to it. I will take time to look at reference photos to get the parts painted and detailed nicely. The tubular chassis come cast as a big part, but take care my example has broken with one of the front rails breaking, The rear axle sits on leaf springs and you will need to get the drill out to open up some holes to fit it together, don’t glue the axle between the springs and this will help you line up the axle, prop shaft and engine later in the build. The front A frame suspension is added and here you need to add the real metal springs, and it’s held together with some small screws, careful application of glue should allow the suspension at the front to work but I wouldn’t be too heavy handed trying it out! The interior come next and the parts copy the real cars interior well, looking at the instructions you can build the body, engine, chassis, and interior separately, and paint them before bringing them together for final assembly. The body comes moulded as a single part, with the various doors separate. The shape looks good to the pictures I’ve seen and it captures the shapes and lines of the 250GTO nicely to my eye. There is a big mould sprue in the windscreen aperture that needs removing and you will need to be careful not to damage the body when chopping it out. The doors, bonnet and boot parts come on the next sprue, this looks well moulded and a quick dry run shows the parts are a good fit into the shell. They all have hinges to allow you to pose them open or closed on your build. The lower front valance is also a separate part, and looking it should be OK to glue this on before adding the chassis and interior which is good as the fit on a dry test isn’t great and will need some sanding and filling to erase the join, I will do this before painting the shell. You get two chrome sprues in the kit the first shown above contains details and parts for the body. I feel my review sample is a little heavy on the chrome and I will strip this and re-paint on my build. The second sprue contains parts for the Borrani wire wheels, each wheel is made up from 3 parts the wheels look nicely done and the parts look to be nice and in scale when built up, again I’m not sure on the chrome finish and I think I’ll strip the chrome and re-paint it for a better finish. Please note there are 4 parts that aren’t needed for this build on this sprue. There are 4 rubber tyres, I feel the detail is a little heavy on the side walls, but should be OK after a rub with some sand paper to weather them down a bit; the tread detail is nice though and again after a rub over will be great. There is a clear sprue in the box; it is bagged separately to protect it from scratching, with the parts not being too thick to spoil the look of the model. There is a nice decal sheet that will allow you to build one of 3 cars as mentioned above. Looking at pictures on the net they look correct. They are well printed and the colours look good and they should cover well. Conclusion This is a nice model of a very sexy car! I look forward to seeing this model on my bench. There is a variety of aftermarket bits and bobs to enhance your build should you want to, but it is well detailed out of the box. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  24. Hi everybody . I have little problem. I lost my manual where were camos and i searched on internet but i dont found them. Can you post me some camos with colors which can i use, exactly that camo with grey and some blue ? Thanks Marty
  25. UK vehicle registration plates and HGV signage. from BECC signs and flags I have received some samples from a company called BECC who make real reflective stickers, as part of this bundle are samples aimed at vehicle modellers, firstly I received a set of warning and legal signage for UK trucks, and some real reflective registration plates again aimed at UK registered vehicles. All sets come in a zip-lock style bag with some instructions on their use The first set on the review bench is the set aimed at truck models, the sheet is real reflective vinyl that is peal and stick, and it is one sheet so the signs need cutting individually before sticking on your model. The sheet contains various data and warning plates the sheet is comprehensive and well printed. The details are very sharp and well printed the sheet is reflective and looks very realistic on your builds; I have shown some close details below. The set reviewed here is at 1:24 scale, but is also available at 1:14 for the bigger Tamiya RC truck models. The second set on the review bench are newer style UK registration plates to suit cars or trucks, this set only has the oblong shaped plates but there is a choice of 1:24 or 1:18 in this set, you also get a set of black letters, 3mm high for 1:24, and 4mm high for 1:18. The letters are cut nicely and easy to remove from the backing and look to be the correct font for British vehicles. It takes allot of patience to get them stuck down straight and spaced correctly but the detail they add will be worth the effort! Conclusion Some nice sets from BECC signs check out their website for the vast range they do for vehicles, aircraft and boats. Review sample thanks to
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