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  1. Hello, This morning I took a look through my spares box and found a few Tamiya centre and rear section canopies. It dawned on me that I had a short shot in another spitfire kit and compared them to see if I could make a swap. The Tamiya Mk. Vb rear most section was very skinny in comparison to the Hasegawa Mk. IX. I took out a few more kits and discovered the Fujimi Mk. XIV and the Sword PR. IV were very different as well. Was there a large change in the size of the windscreen, hood, or rear (backlight?) sections between Marks? Taking out of consideration armoured/unarmoured and PR style windscreens. The Fujimi seemed monstrous, yet came from a later Mark. And I won't mention the Academy... Which canopy should be considered "The Best" ? Thank you for looking in.
  2. Hi all, I've posted these models before, however, the good weather gave me an opportunity to take some much better photos. All 1/72, all Fujimi Spitfire XIV Thanks for looking, Ben
  3. I have a Hasegawa 1/48th scale Harrier GR Mk. 7 I am trying to finish, but the canopy has small cracks where the sprue attachment was. I tried dipping the canopy in Future without success. Is there any way to fix these cracks or at least make them less visible? TIA, Jens
  4. I'm very close to finishing my 1:32 Trumpeter Wildcat and just dry fitting the canopy I found that it doesn't fit very well when it's shown in the open position. It's fine closed but I've put a lot of effort into the cockpit and want to show it off! Any tips to make it fit? There doesn't seem to be a 3rd party vacform alternative and I really don't fancy making my own.
  5. All, This is probably the dumbest question to ever get asked here, however - Q. Are the canopies for the Typhoon and Tempest the same or slightly different? I have a number of publications, have looked here and on other web pages, however I cannot seem to find the answer I am looking for. I am assuming that if they are the same, then the new 1/72 Airfix Typhoon transparencies are more accurate than the 1/72 Academy Tempest clear bits. From photo's I've studied. there seems to be a more tapered end to rear of the canopy, which is captured with the Airfix Typhoon parts. The Academy Tempest has a more fatter shape towards the rear. I'm tempted to use the Airfix parts on my Academy Typhoon Tempest, however would like some expert opinion to back up my assumptions. I'll also need a new set of Typhoon parts if that's the case!! Thanks for looking / answering my dumb question. Cheers .. Dave. Edited - I wrote building an Academy Typhoon rather than Tempest.
  6. Sean_M

    Razor Saw

    Hi I am looking to buy a razor saw for vary fine cuts. i.e. canop seperation, control surfaces etc. Any suggestions on make and model number. There are a lot of brands out there, but all say for "fine" work. Thanks Sean
  7. Hi all. This is a question that I never really have given much consideration. In the past plastic modelling glue was the Britfix tube and you applied whatever was necessery to hold the pieces together. Now it seems to be a much wider variety of glue and cements. Could anybody please give me some good advices on glues to use on transparent plastic ?
  8. Are you tired of having to spend hours and hours of polishing and buffing your canopies and other assorted clear parts back to they're pristine, clear condition after having found a scratch, or made a booboo with your #11 blade or had Tamiya Extra Thin Cement bleed under your careful masking job? Fear your canopy no more, these kind of light damages can be fixed with surprisingly little time, work and profanities. Step 1: using minimum 2000 grit wet and dry (emphasis on the wet) sandpaper, carefully wet sand away the damaged area to where you have removed the damage Step 2: with a soft paint brush apply a generous coat of Future to the offending area and your problem should be solved. Feedback, comments, and tellings off are all welcome
  9. Help needed on colors for post war army vehicles in 1/35. Recently completed, from the "shelf of doom" a champ, 3 short wheelbase Land Rovers, 1 Long wheel base Land Rover, 2 Centurion Tanks, 1 Ferret and an Antar Tank transporter.....all stalled again due to something they all have in common and I cannot get right. They all have canvas tops, exteriors or mantlets. What is the color of said items? with so many vehicles stalled it has been easy to paint each in individual colors and pick the one that is nearly right. I have used various shades of green, forest, russian, drab, even gone to the other end of the spectrum and used Khaki with various shades, grey, drab, I have tried various shades of sand, anything and none look right......so any suggestions? These are post war, generally between 1960 -1980. There are a lot of vehicle enthusiasts who buy the real thing and renovate with "new" canvas, thats not right, these new canvases appear to light, bleached and out of character of the vehicle....When brand new and issued complete with vehicles they were a close matched "Bronze Green" but not quite I drove many of said vehicles and cannot remember....... Over a period of time, these green canvases turned to a lightish grey....I remember the Centurion ARVs penthouse turning to a very light grey, Centurion Mantlet and the Bedford 4 tonner.....any ideas are welcome
  10. I saw an article on here a while back about how to paint the det' cord in on canopies where the canopy has the cord engraved in to it... It was a tip that used acrylic paint but that's as much as I can remember. If anyone can point me in the right direction, or has any good hints and tips I can use, it would be much appreciated James.
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