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  1. Heres the thing - I don't model many things that are unarmed - so I looked at my stash and there was the PR9 I got at a snip some years back, part of building aircraft from my nostalgic youth, living in East Anglia... so I dug it out and looked at the ongoing builds to find a few PR9's in1/48 and 1/72...what can I do different...and found the Alley Cat SC9 conversion - why not I thought. All kit reviews also hammered the decal quality - not easy to get aftermarkets anymore... Alley Cat conversion kit: Then I have seen @DaveJL's build and thought, great another project I can follow and handrail - sorry Dave my last 3 builds have kinda mirrored yours, obviously we have similar tastes, honest I am not a copycat! The next factor - I am due to jet off to Tokyo with work on 12 July to cover the Olympics (if it goes ahead!) so my initial look at the dates thinking I have til August was thrown into touch! So what option paint job should I do - looking at Dave's build and the fact a bit of the extra lumps will be omitted, I have thought I can bash it together reasonably quickly as I am off this week (though the suns out!) which would give me the time for the paint job.... Anyone have any preferences?! Depending on the option a number of early decisions will need to be made (with/without tanks, antenna holes etc) - oh and requisitioning paints etc.... Option 1 - High speed Silver would be straightforward paint wise, with the Day-Glo and blue primer - but my building skilz are not perfect so would show the likely many imperfections! Option 2 - White always a challenge I spose and similar imperfections wise as Silver .... Option 3 - never done a Raspberry Ripple, would be a challenge I guess, but with Mr Paint Lacquers the drying time is quick meaning the masking etc would not have to wait days as per other paints.... Option 4 - Hemp/LAG would be a bit easier I spose.... So - what will it be.... Next I will get the parts off the sprues, get the cockpit done quickly, believe its not correct and it will be black with a bit of artistic license on the buttons and switches...maybe get some of the other bits off and cleaned up as well.
  2. My entry for this group build, the Martin B-57B Canberra operated by the 8th Bomb Squadron out of Bien Hoa AB and then Da Nang AB in 1964/65. It didn't take the Canberra long to become well-known on the tactical scene and they picked up the call sign 'Yellow Bird' based upon the squadron colours (the sister13th BS were 'Red Bird'). I am building the 1/72nd Italeri B-57B Canberra OOB and it will be finished in aluminium. I will be using the decals from the kit. I will also 'ghost' build a second B-57B which will be in the later SEA camouflage scheme coded as 'PQ'. I am looking for a straight forward build of these kits which I have had in the stash for many years now. Michael. Canberras2 by Ghostbase, on Flickr
  3. Hi everybody, after more than one year (I did work on some other models in between) I finally finished the E. E. Canberra B.15: Photo taken with a kind of digital vintage-filter. The Dark Green actually looks like it does on 1960s shots, I think. Maybe I should polish the canopy more. Scratch-built pylon and Microcell rocket pod converted from a Revell Matra pod. Towards the end of their career, B.15s were equipped with additional hardpoints to carry AS.30 missiles. Special thanks go to Britmodeller Rossm who generously provided me with the Flamingo decal from a long-sold out Model Alliance decal sheet. A rudimentary WIP-thread can be found here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235067090-canberra-b1516-akrotiri-strike-wing-172/ Not an easy kit, but it has finely engraved surface detail unlike many recent kits from Airfix and even Special Hobby. It took me a lot of time mostly because there were many small things to research and to decide in order to convert it to a B.15. All comments welcome and enjoy!
  4. Although I had already asked about this Canberra in another thread, I was advised there to make the search for images stand out in the title as well. So here is my question for all pictures of this particular aircraft. Preferably in 1969 condition. Most preferably from 08/08/1969 after landing at RAF Luqa when the aircraft was badly beaten up in a thunderstorm. Or also gladly from other Canberras after a thunderstorm.... I am also looking for photos or plans of the internal structure of the tail fin. Thank you Canberra experts!
  5. Hi everybody, this week I started my Canberra. It is the S&M B.6 kit, but it will be slightly converted into a B.15 or B.16 (not decided yet) that served with the Akrotiri Strike Wing on Cyprus during the 1960s. That's a sturdy box You know it's a short-run kit when the sprues come in a Tesco freezer bag The parts look good, but I already realised when starting with the cockpit that everything needs a lot of test fitting. The instructions are fairly vague and there are no colours indicated for the interior (it's mostly black, I guess).
  6. To begin, I would like to thank @canberra kid and @Antti_K for their help and support in answering a few basic questions about a particular Canberra: WH660 which was planned to make the first launches of the Vickers Red Dean active radar-guided air-to-air missile. It was scheduled to be the first aircraft to link the Red Dean to the AI.18 radar which, itself, was scheduled to be fitted in the 'Thin Wing Javelin' but did find service in the Sea Vixen. The Red Dean was cancelled early in 1956 and WH660 never carried the Red Dean, although Canberra WD956 did launch earlier, unguided, Red Dean development rounds. The inspiration came from this book: 'Black Box Canberras' by Dave Forster. I purchased it on a whim but it has definitely become my 2020 Book of the Year. My starting point was a first crack at a Red Dean using polystyrene sheet and rod. Seen here next to a Firestreak for comparison: it was going to be a big missile! Here is an image of WH660' nose in comparison with one of a B.6 (Mod). Alleycat make a B.6 (Mod) nose and you will see it's similar but not identical. So, taking the Alleycat resin part as s starter, I've been re-shaping it using a drill and a file! I admit it looks slightly 'dodgy'... More to follow. Kind regards, Neil
  7. After some deliberation and almost starting a Jaguar, I've decided to plunge into this rather complicated Alley Cat Canberra conversion. I'll be making a hemp one I think, as sometime in the future I'm planning to do the TT18 in green/grey camo with the black & yellow underside. The T17 was flown by England rugby legend Rory Underwood, our record Test try scorer (49 tries in 85 games between 1984-96) who was also an RAF pilot during his playing career before rugby turned professional! First question, (possibly for @canberra kid?) which of the Airfix Canberra kits is best for a T17, or despite the box are they the same? The colour in the first option is incorrect, apparently there were no grey T17s, but I'll probably do WH902/EK in hemp instead. A few of the decals missing as it was an ebay 'bargain' (ish), but I have all the ones I need, I think. I probably won't bother cutting off the kit cockpit for the replacement though, it'd be more trouble than it's worth given my 'ability'! Second question, do I need to bother with the Alley Cat tip tanks or are the Airfix ones adequate enough?
  8. MikroMir AMP is to release 1/72nd E.E. Canberra kits. Among them T.11/ B.2 /Tp.52 Swedish air force etc. Source: https://www.facebook.com/mikro.mir.dnepr/posts/1768192206591841 V.P.
  9. Having had a wee lull I finally managed to finish this 1/72 Micro-Mir Canberra T17. I ended up finishing as a 360 Sqn aircraft from RAF Wyton in 1985, mainly because the decals with the kit were incorrect. Built OOB using the Modeldecal 85 set and addition of the HF aerial using fishing line. Was looking forward to building this when it came out but probably used not far off as much filler as there is plastic and it fought me all the way. Got the weighting in the nose wrong but the trick with the wire in the wheels worked a treat. Apologies for the poor photographs but they hide the flaws quite well.
  10. In Phil Keeble's excellent Book "Patrolling the Cold War Skies: Reheat Sunset" he describes a flight in a thunderstorm to Malta. He describes the aircraft with the code 175, but without the two letters in front of it. Does anyone know which Canberra that was exactly? And what it looked like at the time? Or even better: Does anyone have any photos of the plane from that time? Best of all, someone even has photos of the plane after the flight, it must have looked terrible. Where could I find pictures? Ask anyone except Mr. Keeble himself... If I can find Canberra experts anywhere, it's here, right? Thank you very much for your help!
  11. Hi, can anyone help me with the colour of the u/c bay or wheel well and covers on the Canberra. The 1/72 S&M kit gives no hints (if I haven't overlooked anything). I am referring specifically to a mid-1960s B.15 with Dark Green/Dark Sea Grey/Silver paint scheme. Thanks in advance.
  12. Hi guys! Well, Cosford was a few days ago and I managed to come across a wonderful Airfix 1:48 Canberra PR.9: (amongst other things >_> ) I was inspired by Navy Bird's excellent 1:72 Canberra PR.9 "End of an era": ...and thought I should probably have a go myself. So, the plan of attack is as follows: -OOB apart from a fair bit of scratchbuilding -Scratchbuild the cockpit -Scratchbuild the Navigator's "cupboard" -Scratchbuild the flare/bomb-bay -Open up a few panels, if possible? -Gear down, flaps down, flare/bomb-bay open -Scratchbuild the cameras -*Anything else that needs editing/making (The chosen scheme) What I could do with are some good reference drawings/photos of the flare/bomb-bay. Also, could I ask what panels on the Canberra could be removed for maintenance, I would be particularly keen on modelling panels that gave access to the cameras or perhaps a reference showing the engine cowling removed (who knows, I could have a go at scratchbuilding an engine!). Thanks for dropping by! Kind regards, Sam -Oh and an update for those following my application for medicine= rejected. Nevermind, Biomed it is!
  13. This is a collection of all the small scale models myself and David (the husband) have built so far. These were all pretty hard to photograph being so small so i hope you don't mind my less than perfect photography skills (plus I should have dusted a couple first!) Lets begin with the Eduard spitfire, made by David. It was painted using alcad and tamiya acrylics. This model goes together like a dream and wing of this aircraft is phenomenally thin! Next up is the Stuka. This is the older eduard boxing with the snake (I presume the one coming out soon is the same kit just with different decals). This was also a great fit, although the photoetch and the flaps on the wings were fiddly and required a little bit of an extra file to make sure that they were staying put. The splotches on the undercarriage legs are done freehand. More to come....
  14. Hi everybody, I am currently working on the S&M Canberra B.6 coverting it into a B.15 or B.16. You can find the WiP-thread here: Could anyone help me with plans that show the position and dimensions of the under-wing hard-points? For a B.15/16 I will need at least the "standard" in-board hard-points for 1000 lb. bombs or rocket packs, but later some aircraft also had additional out-board pylons for the AS.30 missile. By now, I have quiet a number of publications on the Canberra in my library, but for some reason none of the drawing show these hard-points. Although, it is possible to guesstimate from photos, precise drawings would be a great help.
  15. I have the old Airfix Canberra B.2 and their newer B(I)6 in the stash in 1/48, I would like to build one from Wyton circa 1987. Ideally the TT18 with black and yellow stripes would look good in such a large scale, but I can't find the target pods in aftermarket, nor, perhaps surprisingly any 100 sqn tailfin markings. Are there any available, or is it relatively easy to scratch build the Rushton pods? Which of the Airfix Canberra kits would be best to convert to a TT18? If the pods/conversion prove difficult perhaps I could just do a 100 Sqn B2 instead, I believe they operated some in the 80s, albeit grey underneath not yellow & black. Perhaps a question for @canberra kid?
  16. Hi all, does anybody know what kind of ejection seats were installed in the Canberra B.15 and B.16 during the 1960s? I've already looked at the site of the IPMS Camberra SIG, but could'nt find anything. The Martin-Baker Mk.2 seems to be a likely candidate. Thanks in advance!
  17. Hi! I am trying to reproduce the empty underwing pylon for Lightning (Yes, F.53 , Saudi AF). Any pictures from below on this pylon or more widely used UK or French platforms (I believe, it was something standard for bombs/rockets) will be very helpful. Thanks in advance. Cema
  18. The main issue with the newer Airfix 1:72 and 1:48th Canberra kits tailplane really needs to be understood for it to be corrected properly. The real Canberra tailplane has a 10 degree dihedral which it maintains across each half span from the fuselage joint. Airfix have made the fixed stub part molded on the fuselage level (ie no dihedral), this in effect raises the upper tailplane surface join position too high on the fuselage, even though the main mounting slots and the tailplane are pretty much in the right position. The stub also looks completely wrong when compared to an actual Canberra as it lacks the leading edge sweep back, by removing the stubs you eradicate these issues. Why Airfix did this is a mystery as no other Canberra kit, including their old classic B(I).6 kit features this. To the eye the actual tailplanes appear to simply butt up to the fuselage tail assembly, in reality, it's a bit more involved than that though. The tailplane assembly is hinged at it's forward spar and has an electrically actuated drive at the rear to allow it to travel up and down to adjust trim of the aircraft in pitch. The rear fuselage has a cutout to allow for this movement which is why you can see a clear gap under the tailplane when it is in neutral - to trim up position, usually when the aircraft is parked. The small section of fuselage above the tailplane is mounted to it, and moves with it, but has a slot in the top to avoid the fin rudder assembly. There is a tailplane leading edge root fairing fixed to the fuselage. Hopefully these pictures illustrate what I mean, you can see how a small section of the aft upper fuselage section moves with the tailplane, from the hinge point just ahead of the national markings on the fin - to the break point with a white painted aft face. The fuselage tailcone assembly adjacent to the elevators is fixed. Canberra T.4 WJ874 by James Thomas, on Flickr Canberra T.4 WJ874 by James Thomas, on Flickr Canberra PR.9 XH135 by James Thomas, on Flickr Canberra PR.9 XH135 by James Thomas, on Flickr As said, the Airfix tailplane/fuselage junction stub is molded into the fuselage, this can be completely removed as it is solid plastic, and the remaining area shaped to conform with the correct fuselage contours. At this stage, an easier fix would be to butt join the tailplane halves into the existing slots. The tailplanes themselves will then need plasticard adding at the join area to compensate for the loss of span with the removed fuselage plastic. The slightly more involved, but ultimately more satisfying and correct, route is to make the whole tailplane assembly as English Electric did. The tailplane can be made into a single assembly by making up a new box structure between the two halves (the included kit tailplane tabs will help you here), and between the tailplane front spar (the tailplane hinge point) and the elevator hinge line. Cutting out the corresponding section in the fuselage is the next step. This will allow for both a more life like appearance and to be able to mount the tailplane at a desired incidence. Back of envelope sketch, 030 (2) by James Thomas, on Flickr
  19. Canberra B.2 98 Squadron, RAF Watton, 1968 This is the S&M Canberra kit finished in classic 1960s silver-and-dayglo. Here is the original inspiration: This is or less OOB, though I did emphasise the control surface engraving so that it looked more definite than the surrounding panel lines. Having seen some photos of models finished from this kit I thought they had a little too much of a tail-up stance, so I shortened the main gear legs by about 1mm or so and gave the wheels some flats, and that seemed to give it a roughly level stance. If you make one of these don’t under-estimate the amount of nose weight needed. I packed the forward engine nacelles as well as every bit of space around the forward fuselage and still couldn’t prevent it tail sitting. In the end I added more lead weights on the bomb aimer’s floor which just balanced it – its all black in there anyway so you can’t see much of it. It’s worth mentioning the canopy on this one. The whole upper forward fuselage including the canopy is moulded clear and it works very well. An unexpected benefit of this is the minimal distortion around the canopy edges which means you can clearly see the cockpit detail, so it’s worth putting in the effort here. I made my own dayglo strip decals by spraying white, orange, red and dayglo orange in that order onto clear decal sheet, then cutting out the strips using a new knife blade. They were never going to bend around the leading edges so I sprayed those rather than use the decals. The decals were fairly thick, but then so was the original. I was pleased with the way it turned out though. Canberra wing walkways challenged me a bit. I think I’m right for this era by using black dashes to indicate walkway areas, in fact it looked to me that the small panels engraved in the kit upper surface in front of the flaps were not panels at all, but were in fact these walkway dashes, though I can’t be sure about that. Black lines didn’t seem right – I think they came in with the Light Aircraft Grey scheme, and certainly the later yellow/red stripes are not right for this era.
  20. Hi! I'm starting to build the classic Classic Airframes kit of Electronic Warfare Canberra. IMHO most brutally looking Canberra version. I will use: -Kit (more than 10 years in my stash) -Loon replacement wingtip tanks (resin) -Eduard interior etch set intended for Airfix B.20 kit -ResKit wheels (resin)-looks waaay better than in-box resin - compare the pictures below... The start is trivial - assembling the 1kg of resin interior parts and building the fuselage halves. Thanks for looking
  21. Hi comrades! Full build is here Model is fun to build, but it needs some modifications and more details to better represent the prototype. Modifications I made: -Third crew member station was added (and it's visible!!!) -Painted antennas inside the canopy -Antennas scratchbuilt -Navigation lights scratchbuilt -Landing light - Elf -Details on wheel doors-scrach -Wheels - replaced with ResKit -Brass In cockpit - Eduard -National insignia - painted (decals are wrong) -Stencils - partly painted, most from Model Alliance decals -Loon replacement wingtip tanks And great thanks to @canberra kid and @Lord Riot for the help and protecting me from making big mistakes!!! Thanks for looking!
  22. I had bought this kit in a discount from Dukel Hobbies, they were selling it with aftermarket decals and the paints for 2500ARS, cheaper than buying the kit and decals from Hannants. Finished the Canberra yesterday. The kit has some issues, such as the huge gaps when attaching the wings, the wheels that don't have a positive fit on the main landing gear, the cockpit floor that is warped, etc... The only thing I don't like about how I finished it is the demarcation line on the nose, I painted it with different lengths on the right and left sides, and it sorely shows. Anyways, here are the finished photos: You can see ny mistake by comparing this photo with the right side of my model:
  23. I began building Airfix's 1:48 Canberra today, and I found the cockpit doesn't drop fit into place, I have to make some pressure in order for it to fit. The lack of locating tabs for it doesn't help either. The fuselage halves are perfectly straight too, since they meet perfectly. I think this is caused because the cockpit bulkheads are too large, can someone else back me up on this one? Has anyone else had this issue? Any solutions apart from pressing and holding in place? Thanks!
  24. After finishing my Spitfire with the Watts two bladed propeller, I decided to begin my biggest project to date, Airfix's Canberra in 1:48. My goal is to have one MIIIE, a SuE, an A-4, a Canberra and a Harrier for the South Atlantic War (see guys? My interests also go beyond German Luftwaffe). Spitfire, boxart and decals. I made several test fits of the cockpit to the fuselage. The floor of it is warped, making it a bit difficult to place. The model also needs 100g minimum of weight to keep it from being a tail sitter. Since the only seat visible will be the pilot one, and since the entire cockpit is in matt black, I'll leave the other two seats out, using the remaining space for a 30g weight. The other 90g will be places above the nose gear well.
  25. I thought it would be nice to spend some time with my wife on Saturday and Sunday evenings (I work nights and we don't get to spend much time together). She likes a bit of idiot box and I hate it. I decided to build a kit while watching some tv with her. Anyhow it is a good plan, mmmmm. She is now in bed with the babies - 2 Bull Arab dogs, Billy and Mandy, who think bedtime is 9.30 and they tell her it is time to go to bed. I have never built a 1/48 scale kit and know very little about the canberra bomber. I will probably do the Aussie plane or maybe not, both schemes look great. Some pics of what is in the box: Box art Thanks for stopping by and having a look. Any words of wisdom will be appreciated. Stephen
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