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Found 18 results

  1. Hello modeller friends, As I’m currently building a B5N2 Kate model, I wonder about the use of the 3 oxygen bottles located on the port side of the observer’s station. Are they related to the torpedo operation or something else? Were they present in which ever mission, torpedoeing or bombing? Which colour were the bottles? I searched the internet with no result and hope that you can help me in that matter. Thank you, Cheers, Quang
  2. Hello I am starting to build this model but right in the beginning of the instructions you have the options of retracted or extended forward hydro planes. I want it with extended ones but I can't figure out what you have to remove or scrape off to fit them. Thanks for your help. Thomas
  3. Hi all, As I was moving house lately, I stumbled on a Monogram kit I all but forget I had. The box was mint and still had the cellophane wrapper on. I built the kit when it was first released in 1980. I remember being astounded by the details and the precision moulding. I really enjoyed painting the cockpit and the intricate interior. At the same period was issued a new French aviation magazine with an article entitled ‘Skarks over the Red Sea’ and dealing with French AF F-100D operations in Africa. The cover sported a brace of F-100s with a spectacular shark mouth which struck many a modeller. When recently an old IPMS friend told me that he had the corresponding decals ( and accompanying resin recce pod) in double, I was in business again. The game’s afoot. I’ll build this kit OOB without any aftermarket help -aside the decals and resin pod of course- to try to relive the exciting moments I had. Having said that, I’d also try to update the 40 year-old kit to 2020 standard with my meager skills. Watch this space, Cheers, Quang
  4. Here I go again .... another bl**dy locomotive. I promised myself after spending many years (off and on) with my Flying Scotsman that I'd never make that mistake again. The road to Hell is paved with good intentions they say. Growing up as a wee lad in Fife Scotland in the 40's through to 1951 when we emigrated to Canada I was enamoured with steam engines ... the bigger the better. I saw and travelled behind many an A3 and A4 and on my trainspotting days my favourite place to be was on an embankment across from the local station. Frequently engines would arrive, detach from their train and shunt down a siding right below me to take on water from the stand. I've never forgotten the feeling of being there marvelling at these wonderful, machines, feeling the radiant heat, hearing the panting of the air pump and smelling the smoke and steam. Ah, the glory days. Of the LNER big Gresleys most I saw were of the A1 through A3 classes but then one day I saw the most wonderful looking machine imaginable to a young lad. Union of South Africa passed our home where we lived on the 3rd floor and I heard that unique chime whistle as she arrived in Dunfermline fresh from Edinburgh and the Forth Bridge. 60009 always had a special place in my memories no matter how many other A4's I saw and, as an Edinburgh (Haymarket) engine, I saw her often. Fast forward 70 years and here I am, still enthralled with 60009 and watching every YouTube video of her. Only recently I've read that she is about to be retired and that she will be coming home to Fife to reside in a purpose built museum ... I hope I can see her one more time. So, after waxing all poetic about A4's, there's only one logical step I can take and that's to have a go at scratch building one ... Makes sense don't you think? Should be a piece of cake. I've selected a set of A4 drawings off the web, scanned them, enlarged them to my scale*, printed them off then glued them to various cardboard and plastic backings. I'm using my usual Renshape composite material to shape the body. The tender, when I get to it, will mostly be made up from Arborite or Formica sample panels and the motion will be aluminium salvaged from various electronics, computers, cameras and whatever. Off we go .... * It's just going to be an ornament on a shelf. 22" buffer to buffer, same as my Flying Scotsman. Get over it! Here's my rough bandsawed block of Renshape. It's a start. Lots of power tools gets it soon down to a recognizable shape ... and that iconic swoopy footplate is cut out and attached. Body filler applied and sanded out ... Kylchap double exhaust roughed out, shaped and filler applied. I mounted the model on a board so that it's at the correct height so I can check the shape with a plastic cutout template. It really helps to have the model sitting at the correct height and attitude. Next I rough out the cab. The sides are fabricated from Arborite/Formica sample panels which I like as they are so flat and strong. The roof is cut from a sheet of steel salvaged from stereo equipment. Bent it slowly to shape over a block that I shaped into a template. Lots of cutouts and small sliders, vents etc added to it. Gradually I make more external fittings, pipework, handrails, and give it a rough coat of paint to see how she looks. OK, now onto the wheels. As with the Scotsman I made a master driving wheel and one bogie/cab/tender wheel from Renshape. Using my Dremel in a drill stand I ream out the spaces between the spokes. Once the master is finished and sanded I fastened it into a container and poured silicon over it to make a mold. I want to use machined aluminium as the wheel rim so I set that into the mold first then pour a 2 part urethane casting material into the mold. This bonds and hardens to the metal rim to make a usable wheel after some filing and sanding . Here's the small set of wheel rims and one with spokes. They will be cast in a similar method. Next I want to fabricate the fairly large spring sets that are under the cab. Since there's only one on each side I decide to fabricate both (rather than cast a pair). I made them both from scrap aluminium. There are ribbed gussets (?) on either side of the axle boxes and I found a perfect sized heat sink from a computer that let me cut out suitable gussets. Lots of hacking and hewing later I have a decent pair of springs. Mounted on a temporary backing here. So here's an "in progress" shot with her older brother the Flying Scotsman whose tender she's pinched. They don't look like it here but they ARE in the same scale. Next comes the fun part. ... fabricating all the metalwork/motion that goes with the wheels. I didn't take many pictures of making each piece as that gets boring. I have an aluminium strap that is 1" wide by 1/8th thick and almost every piece is hacksawed, filed and polished from that. The driving and connecting rods have a recess cut into their faces (a "U" shape) and I hog them out using cutting wheels on a Dremel. Lots of filing follows. It all gets bolted together using tiny bolts that I recently purchased. If I drill the hole in the aluminium slightly smaller than the bolt then I can slowly screw the bolt in such that it cuts threads and can be removed and replaced easily after that. Here's a work-in-progress shot. The Phillips bolt heads will eventually be filed flat and six-sided to look appropriate. The "body" has had the paint stripped and some fairing has been applied. Thanks for looking in. More to come. Frank
  5. Newbie question here. Couldn't find an answer by searching. I'm wanting to start making dioramas and scenery. Where can I get extruded polystyrene foam in decent thicknesses, eg 50mm to 100mm? I have found 6mm and 20mm sheets online. Is Kingspan or Celotex insulation foam the same thing if you remove the foil? Thanks.
  6. Hi, I bought this model as an impulse buy in the hannants tent about 2 years ago at one of the Duxford air shows. At the time I had lots of models to build so I wasn't looking too hard at the kits but temptation seemed to find me anyway. When I got home I realised (yet again) that Trumpeter had very cleverly boxed the item to look extremly appealing, but of course as soon as I began to do some research I realised that work needed to be done to bring it up to scratch. Other than the usual inconveniently placed ejector moulding pin circles that you come to expect from most trumpeter kits, there was also the considerable problem of size. Many of the moulded on details are just plain chunky. Fortunately for me (but not my wallet) Eduard came to my rescue in their Big Ed set. Now I had 8 sheets of photoetch to improve my model with. But still that wasn't enough, so back to the internet where I found Libor's fabulous build log of the very same model which ultimately led to me purchasing all of his 5 resin sets from LZ models for the loco (cue more misfortune for the wallet). Now this man is somewhat of a detail specialist and his resin sets are quite something. The only flaw being that the instructions on where to put all the parts still confuses me but I suppose that as these are his very first commercial resin sets that he produced so I can't expect them to be perfect. Below is a good example though of the improvement i'm going to get from using the resin instead of the kit parts, (this is a part of one of the domes on top of the boiler). And here's all the resin sets I also intend to build a diorama base for it so I also bought a water pump and some scenic materials. All of this adds up to a LOT of stuff! The kit All the extras together Anyway enough about all that and back to the actual build. I've done a few of my own modifications to the kit (mainly removing things and making holes!) After all that I eneded up taking a long break from this model. It stalled because I wanted to buy some metal rails and attach them to the diorama base so I could make sure that all my wheels were going to sit on the rails (I notice the little wheels at the front and back hanging in mid air in quite a few built versions!). I'd decided that it would be best to do any required adjustments before i got down to painting. Unfortunately of the 2 companies online that do what I want the one that I chose didn't seem all that keen on sending me only 2 pieces of track. I asked them for a price, they gave me one then I asked them about payment methods (it wasn't at all clear on their site) then I never did get a reply. I was going to phone but I just never did, the model got packed into a box after a few months and there it lay for about a year and half. The model came back out of the box a couple of weeks ago and I became determined that this time it will get done! Ironically I still haven't got those rails, it's been about 2 weeks after David phoned in my order and gave his payment details and I haven't got an order and I haven't been charged for one! It's time to phone them up again.... Rail troubles aside I began by building the bunker at the back (at least I think that's it, railway terminology is not my strong point) and adding the photo etch. I also did a bit of work removing and thinning some over exaggerated detail. At the moment i'm beginning to work on the cab, I got my photoetch glued to my roof yesterday and i've begun to contemplate the boiler. At the moment it's pretty simple and in some places inaccurate, the photo etch and resin will add a considerable amount of detail but I still need to work on some elements and work out which of the extra parts go where, what I need to scratch build and what order I need to do things in. In short a lot of thinking! Anyway I hope you enjoyed my introduction to my latest creation and that it isn't too long! Amanda
  7. Bought this kit and first appearances were very good with what appeared to be a good dry fit, nicely recessed panel lines, accurate profile and decals by Cartograf, so I was expecting no real issues with the build. How wrong I was ! I'm currently only about two thirds of the way through the build after 10 days, something that I expected to have finished within 4 or 5 even allowing for my fading eyesight and modest modelling skills, however the following issues have had to be resolved so far with possibly more to follow. ISSUES The fit of the two top wing sections to the lower wing/fuselage section is poor and requires a great deal of scraping and sanding internally just to get an acceptable trailing edge at the rear flap section in this scale. It's still not perfect but it's the best that is achievable to my eyes. Joining the assembled fuselage to the now thinned down wing section again required lots of head scratching and filing/scraping to both as they would not fit without leaving obvious gaps at the front wing root leading edge around the undercarriage sections as well as gaps at the wing root joint and a very obvious step between the wing and fuselage on both sides. Having now scraped and filed to give an improve fit, though still far from perfect, I'm now left with lots of filling and sanding which will remove all that nicely recessed detail. As I'm not adept at re-scribing panel lines this means that all this subtle detail will now be lost. I've yet to attempt fitting the upper internal cockpit cowling section that has the gun sight attached but I suspect this will also be a wee bit of a problem as the latest dry fit shows no obvious seating and the instructions are a little vague (perhaps I should have fitted it earlier)? I'm determined to see it through as the excellent internal detail and the effort I've put in so far will not be wasted, but given the price and initial impressions (plus the after market extras purchased) this is clearly not an 'out of the box' build or one for a novice, new comer or anyone without plenty of time on their hands and patience! CONCLUSION Overall it is a really good kit and probably the best Kittyhawk 1a in this scale with excellent internal detail, multiple options and extras, great decals and nicely done pane lines but it is not to the fit standard of other more modern and recent kits from the likes of Airfix and Revell etc. etc. and what one has now come to expect from a kit of this price. I have now come to appreciate that this is definitely one for the more accomplished modeller which sadly I am not and perhaps with hindsight I should have opted for a different subject. Kind Regards Colin. Ps. once I have the build finally done I will upload some photos to highlight all the issues
  8. Has anyone built any of the Accurate Armour Land Rover Kits?Have some in the stash and would like to know if any pitfalls await me.This will be my first resin kit build.Having a Total hip replacement soon, so i will have lots of available time. Thanks, John
  9. Hello modeller friends, FLY Models caused quite a stir when they released their 1/32 Hurricane in April 2016. By a general consensus on the modelling forums, it's the best Hurricane on the market: accurate shape, good dimensions, adequate surface detail and unbeatable bang for the buck, etc… One question remains: HOW DOES IT BUILD? Strangely there are but a very few WIP's (one on this very forum) on the internet for such a popular model. Furthermore they all stopped still after a few instalments. What happened? Is there a monster glitch out there waiting for the unwary modeller? I decided to find out and share my experience with you. Before starting up, let me tell you that I've never been interested in the Hurricane as a plane and that I've never built a Hurricane in all my modelling years. That is before a friend showed me the FLY kit he just bought . I was unexplainably drawn to the box and before long I was cutting up the sprues, dry-fitting the parts … and buying the kit back from my friend. So let the build begins. First, the box with the 'meh' painting... … and the all-important documentation, excellent references I got from another friend. Most of it sadly OOP: Next episode: Dry-fitting the parts Until then, Cheers, Quang
  10. Hi all! Finished my first ever loco kit recently! Please check out the link below and let me know what you think of the finished model (and also the quality/edit of the video) - constructive criticism extremely welcome! (it's the only way we get better right?) Not 100% happy that the wheels don't turn too freely, but hopefully I'll fix that on the next kit I build. Pretty content with the overall finish though. Thanks for reading guys!
  11. Hi All, i'm building the Revell Victor, and haven't got the cash to splash on the detail kit to deal with the intakes. As I was going to build it on the ground i'll go for FOD covers. in the past I've done this with cut out paper, but it always looks naff. Any ideas/advice/tips on how to make really realistic and stable red FOD covers for the intakes? A la: http://thumbsnap.com/s/nwp4X5Nc.png Chris
  12. How about an IDF Group - we can start from spitfires, Avia (109) to modern jets. There is something for everyone. I wiill try and keep a list Let me know if I don't get everyone on: 1. SeanM 2. Charley420 3. DaveJL (maybe) 4. KnightFlyer (Maybe) 5. Arniec 6.Fatboydim 7.Welzy 8. Marlin 9. Rob G 10. theplasticsurgeon 11. MikeMx (maybe) 12. Kwaterous 13. TrickyRich 14.MigMech 15. Blitz23 16.llking 17. MIke M 18. jrlx 19. Ian Buick
  13. Hi all, Been working on Revell's new Spitfire over on Large Scale Planes and it's suddenly dawned on me it might be of interest over here. OK - before I wade in - I won't pretend this is in any way definitive - it will include some mods I'll make following reference to photos/drawings/published dimensions/other kits - but my aim is to make a nice looking Spitfire - something I think easily achievable with this kit. What's more - it cost me the princely sum of £18 and I'd hate to waste it! For anyone that followed my He219 build I'd like to keep this thread on a similar - and positive - note throughout. Please chip in if you spot anything - and feel free to throw in discussion points. So - before I start... Kit fuselage: Top Hasegawa, middle new Revell, bottom Tamiya: Kit with Hasegawa Vb/Revell Hasegawa IIa fuselage (note difference in length from firewall (almost line-up perfectly - to front of cowl - don't ask which is right just yet): Hasegawa Vb/Revell Hasegawa IIa and Tamiya fuselage: Tamiya and Revell IIa fuselage: Comparison has already been made between the Tamiya kit and the new Revell one in Jen's excellent post on LSP, along with Derek Bradshaw's ongoing appraisal - nothing further to add. Interesting to note that the nose is quite a lot longer than the Hasegawa Vb - more investigation needed - but otherwise it matches quite closely in profile - if not cross section. Right oh - now to start... One of the first things I spotted were the fuselage sides - around the cockpit - appear to bulge out a little when viewed from above (or finger run along the sides) - and will need sanding back. Area is marked in red on photos - but actually are that needs modding extends further towards the firewall too. Likewise there is additional material on the wing roots that could do with removing - again as marked below. Not sure if I'll need to pack the area behind to prevent sanding all the way through - we'll see: And this is the relevant area inside the fuselage - not spotted before - but not conducive to getting the outer shapes right: Port side wing root in progress... Using the power tool and round grinding bit to remove most of the excess plastic: Before wading in with 280/400/600/1200 grit wet and dry wrapped around a pen: Looking better - still a little more to go methinks - but looks like there's enough 'meat' there to avoid any backfilling (modified left - kit right): Total time so far - about 20 mins. Back soon... Iain
  14. Hello everyone, So I finally got around to building my spitfire! Total time it took is under a week including drying, sleeping etc. This is my first build ever, I am now going to start on the Airfix 737. Let me know what you think I used the paints provided in the kit except for Revell Aqua aluminium for bits of the landing gear. I used UHU for to glue the canopy to the body. There's a pilot inside. Also, I used decalfix for the decals, decalfix worked amazingly well I'd say. Lastly sealed everything in with two thin coats of Revell Aqua Gloss. [Thanks to everyone who helped me out with this build over at another thread ] See below the pictures of the final product : That's it. Let me know what you think! I'm going to be building the Airfix 737-200 soon, so let me know what I can improve on. I'll start a new build thread tomorrow or something for the 737 in the airliners section . Cheers, Hamdhan
  15. Hello there! This is my first post after my introduction post, and also my first scale model that I'll be building. So I grabbed the spitfire starter set for £6.99 from WHSmith. I was planning to build it over the christmas holidays, but I couldn't resist myself from trying out the painting and stuff. I've just done a few things, but I'm done for now until christmas (hopefully ) so that I can do my university work. So, find attached some snaps of the progress so far . Pictures: First look at the box: First look at the pieces on the sprue(I was quite excited at this point): Figuring out what goes where... Decal sheet : http://i.imgur.com/RdQUxf2.jpg My makeshift workstation with work underway (all my tools are back in Dubai): So thus far I've managed to finish painting the seat. Sorry for poor picture quality, my DSLR is back in Dubai as well haha: http://i.imgur.com/YSyoUoz.jpg http://i.imgur.com/nZu6mA4.jpg That's it for now folks. Lacking my tools and having to concentrate on coursework, I will have to put this project aside until christmas. But my plans for christmas are to finish this spitfire, then get started on a Revell A319 and Airfix 737. The A319 in British Airways livery and the Airfix 737 in Air New Zealand Livery. So that's it for now until mid December! Cheers everyone!
  16. Well I've finally sorted out a space to do my modelling, and installed a worktop and made a paint rack. Soooo, it's time I started to make a model, this will be the first one in about 33 years so I've decided to keep it basic so as to re-learn any old skills that I might of had back in the day. I decided the first model should be an 1/72nd Airfix Chipmunk, my thoughts being that this should be an "out of the box" basic build with an easy paint job to match, just to get me in the swing of things. There's only 2 sprues of parts and 1 sprue of clear parts (2 choices of canopy), the typical Airfix instructions and some basic decals. Upon inspection there'a a fair bit of flash (not too much of a problem), and I notice on the inside of one of the wings is the date of the mould... 1969! Boy, this is an old kit, and it shows, the canopy is like looking through the bottom of a jam jar, lol, I'm now thinking that maybe I should have chosen one of the "new tooling" options from Airfix, but I've got it out, so onward I plunge... I'll give it a scrub up in some mildly soapy water to get rid of any nasties...
  17. Hi all, This is my first real attempt at modelling for a while, half my life ago in fact. I posted an inbox review of this old kit on my youtube channel, when this thread and the 'Ishak' are finished, I shall post it on youtube as well. This was bought for me cheaply on Ebay a year and half ago by my wife, a great little find even though I have heard this particular kit slated for its inaccuracies but to me if it looks like a duck, sounds like a duck and tastess like a duck, it's a duck. It is made of hard(ish) plastic and has raised detail, also sadly there is no cockpit I will try to scratch build one and see how it goes.
  18. I wanted to document my build with some photos. I went out and bought a nice blue piece of card. However try as I might I am not getting a good qua;ity. There is a shadow, or the flash causes a problem, Having a lamp on or off makes little difference. I have a fairly decent camera a Minolta G500 which is 5mpx. Any quick suggestions woud be of help. I don't particiularly want to become a photographic expert, to take pics to share with you chaps. I read somewhere that I should have a top down stand. Investinmg in camera kit is not something I really want to do.
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