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Found 24 results

  1. A suggestion. Well in advance as this ere forum works that way and it takes time to get the required numbers A 'Fokker' GB in 2022 I noticed that Antony Fokker started his first company on 22nd February 1912 So 2022 will 110 years of Fokker There are plenty of models, from the E.I / II / III / IV series, the ubiquitous Dr.1, D. VII and the D.XXI to the F.27 100 and more, and all sorts of numbers and types in between. Excluded are the types that Fokker bought in and sold on as a sales agent Anyone for it? 1. Black Knight (me, of course) 2. Corsairfoxfouruncle 3. Marklo 4. Andwil 5. John Masters 6. TonyOD (?) 7. Ted 8. JOCKNEY 9. Tim R-T-C 10. stevehed 11. Arniec 12. Rob S 13. Torbjorn 14. Peter Lloyd 15. RC Boater Bill 16. 2996 Victor 17. zebra 18. ColonelKrypton 19. dnl42 20. Blitz23 21. GREG DESTEC 22. ??
  2. Hi everybody, After recently completing my first ever scratch build I am jumping back into the deep end. The BE2c has long been a favourite of mine but has never been available as a 1/32 kit so the only option is to get stuck in and have a go at scratch building one. The version I want to model has a Royal Aircraft Factory 1a engine which is not available as an after market kit so that is where I shall start. The engine looks quite complicated so let's just see how far this goes, if nothing else the modelling Gods might take pity and give us a kit. Here is a picture from the front; Royal Aircraft Factory 1a V8 engine by Richard Williams, on Flickr Scary stuff! The crank case at least is just a box and the massive fly wheel is just a circle at the back. A few bits and bobs stuck together gives me this; RAF 1A V8 engine by Richard Williams, on Flickr The mounting beams are left long for ease of handling and will be cut down once the frame is together. RAF 1A V8 engine by Richard Williams, on Flickr Not he most impressive work for sure but it's a start! I don't know the name for the tear drop shaped housing that the prop shaft goes into, whatever it is called I made with laminated 2mm styrene sheet cut and filed into shape. Handily this gave me a centre line for adding the bolt fixing channels. The bolts (correct number of!) were added by using a similar method to my riveting method. 2mm lengths of 0.5mm brass tube were cut and using a paintbrush were applied with Future floor wax. Nice and easy because it can be rolled into position. 20210811_224652 by Richard Williams, on Flickr Once dried super thin super glue is applied to each one and zapped with Zip Kicker. Hopefully this gives the look of them being part of the casting rather than separate parts stuck on. A quick lick of paint to see how it looks reveals a few blobs of CA glue that need to go but I quite like the overall look. 20210811_231525 by Richard Williams, on Flickr Cooling fins were added to by cutting tiny pieces of styrene. Gel super glue was added to the engine part and using tweezers the fins were added. Great care needed to be taken to hole the fins so the tweezers didn't touch the glue, not 100% successful but at least nothing pinged across the room. 20210812_193956 by Richard Williams, on Flickr Again, super thin super glue was run down each fin in the hope of making them look like part of a 1 piece casting. The main parts are just tacked together with a tiny blob of glue for ease of handling but it is beginning to look like an engine! I won't have any time for a few days so here it will stay for now. Thanks for watching, all comments, criticisms and advice gratefully received. Have a great weekend. Richie
  3. Hi there I bought the Kora Fairey Gordon Mk1 from LFModels a couple of months ago and I just wanted to say - it was difficult. IMGP0106a by Sandeha Lynch, on Flickr Somewhere on the box it says it's for experienced modellers and not for children, and at 68 I'm likely halfway between the two. It's an attractive enough biplane, and as a kit it fit together very well, including the unusual mode of selecting two out of the three body halves, chopping the end off one of them and gluing a new half-nose in its place - basically an object lesson in upgrading the older Fairey IIIF to become a Gordon. IMGP0107a by Sandeha Lynch, on Flickr But the wing struts seemed weaker than on the other two biplanes I'd done, so there were accidents, splints, patches, and wedges, and even some additional paint layers to keep the whole thing together. I also misinterpreted the axle position on the landing gear. Rather than moulding a V shape, it had two supports on each side, requiring some guesswork on how to get the axle into the right position and make it rigid. In the end I cut some half loops of plastic to strngthen it. A V shape with a ring would have been easier !! Does anybody else just feel a bit sad when a propeller won't turn? This is the second biplane I've done that doesn't have a turning prop as standard - I mean, it would be possible with some considerable effort and some decent material for a spindle, but frankly I'd call it a disappointment in the design department. But anyway, it was fun to do. And it kept me occupied as intended. IMGP0111a by Sandeha Lynch, on Flickr I mentioned another time that I am working on those aircraft I found among my dad's negatives from while he was in the RAF in Sudan, etc. There's only one shot of a Fairey wing, the tips of the struts being quite distinctive. There would have only been a few of these aircraft remaining in 47 Squadron when he joined them in late 1939, and possibly only those with floats that were kept for work on the Nile, but I know that one of his mates there had enjoyed flying them. 6x6blue_86 by Sandeha Lynch, on Flickr
  4. Hi all, Here is my latest build, the 1/48 Bristol Bulldog kit from Lindberg. This kit traces its lineage right back to 1968, which makes the moulds 52 years old…! Extensive modifications were made to the kit, including reworking all of the external surfaces (the kit comes with horrible textured fabric surfaces all over and raised panel lines), scratchbuilding the cockpit (the kit cockpit is non-existent), correcting the underside of the nose, correcting all of the nose panels, adding the chin radiator, adding the under-belly panel and circular under-fuselage fairing, replacing and detailing the engine cylinders, pushrods, sparkplugs and other details, scratchbuilding the windscreen, adding gun sights, bomb racks, navigation lights, and a whole bunch of other changes too numerous to list here. I painted the machine in the (rather boring) markings of a Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) machine, using Red Roo decals for serial numbers. The national markings were spray painted. RAAF machines did not appear to be fitted with radio equipment. No photographic evidence found to show that RAAF Bulldogs sported antenna wires, nor do any photos show that RAAF machines sport lower starboard wing mounted air-driven generators (though the fittings for said generators remained). RAAF machines could be seen with various combinations of bomb racks, upper wing navigation lights and lower wing flare racks. Any combination can be seen. The combination I chose was bomb racks and upper wing navigation lights. The build took me just under four months all up. It was a fun build, but it fought me most of the way. It’s good to finally have something off the bench for the year… Anyway, here are some pics: Build progress and more detail shots are here - All comments, criticism and feedback welcomed. Cheers, BC
  5. I recently acquired a copy of the old Hasegawa kit in 1/32nd scale from a collection. It had been started, just gluing wings and wheels and what-not together. I have all of the old 1/32nd between wars kits that they did and I always admired them and wanted to do an ultimate build but never felt I had the skill to do the job I wanted to do. This one was FREE! So I decided, what the hell, let's just do an OOB build. Maybe I'll even get through it. It is a pretty basic but surprisingly well done kit. Everything actually fits! A bit surprising for a mid '70s kit. I DID plan on OOB BUT... I just can't help adding JUST a little bit here and there...
  6. This is my rendition of a 1940 Tiger Moth from the RAF Flight Training School. It's the 1/72 Airfix kit plus the Eduard PE set and some additional bits from the Eduard PE "stretchers and control horns" set. The build was started in August 2015 as my entry to the "Tiger Moth STGB". As usual, I didn't manage to finish it in the GB's time frame and could only resume the build this year. This time, it was finished. Some notable points of the build: Extra detail from Eduard's Tiger Moth PE set Extra control horns and stretchers (underside of the tail plane and inter-wing rigging stretchers from the Eduard PE "stretchers and control horns" set) EZ-line for rigging and control cables Control mechanism and cables for the ailerons added (underside of the fuselage, behind the landing gear) Rudder deflected to the left, as usual in TMoths on the ground Alclad Grey Primer Paints from Gunze Aquos Light weathering using dry brushing of lighter tones on wing ribs and Vallejo acrylic brown wash overall Alclad Flat coat The WIP thread is here. Here are the pictures: 1. General views IMAG6375 IMAG6376 IMAG6377 IMAG6378 IMAG6379 IMAG6386 IMAG6380 IMAG6381 IMAG6383 IMAG6382 IMAG6384 IMAG6385 IMAG6387 2. Rigging and control cable details IMAG6389 IMAG6390 IMAG6395 IMAG6396 IMAG6391 IMAG6392 IMAG6398 3. Cockpit details IMAG6393 IMAG6394 4. Aileron control mechanism and actuators IMAG6397 IMAG6401 5. Landing gear details IMAG6399 IMAG6400 6. Family picture Here we can see a Spitfire Mk. I, the Tiger Moth and a Defiant, all from 1940. IMAG6402 Thank you for looking. All feedback is very welcome. Cheers Jaime
  7. This was my entry to the Tiger Moth GB back in the summer of 2015. I didn't manage to finish it in the time frame of the GB and it has been untouched since. I'll try to finish it now. Thanks for looking. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Hello, As if I didn't have enough ongoing builds, I decided to participate in this GB. I will be building Airfix's 1/72 Tiger Moth in RAF Flight Training School colours, 1940. Here are the kit, sprues and decals: IMAG2533 Here's the camouflage scheme: IMAG2535 The kit is nicely detailed out of the box but I will add Eduard's PE fret to the build. I have this on order with my LHS and it should arrive in mid-August. Until then I won't be doing much on the kit, if at all. The aircraft will be rigged, of course. It will be done with elastic fishing line glued with CA. That's all for now. Thanks for looking. Jaime
  8. Dear Colleagues Here is my newly completed Roden 1/72 Gotha G.III. Probably the toughest modelling challenge I have completed in the last 20 years! The kit has many refinements but it is not engineered in a way to give it any strength. Each lower wing is made of three parts, with the engine nacelle being one of the parts. Roden offer you tiny nibs to make the join. But I felt safer drilling out and using brass rod. One of the rare examples in which the rigging is critical in holding it together in fact! It has the photo etch set from PART. Given the limited engine power of the time you can see why the designers went for a gigantic wing span. Apparently the most dangerous part of any mission was landing the beast! Note there is no windshield for the pilot and his throttle controls were outside the cockpit on a sill to his right! In January I visited the St Pancras Hotel restaurant in London set in the old station booking hall. I was surprised to hear from our guide that the roof was not original due to it having been destroyed in WWI from a bomb dropped by a Gotha! Regards Andrew
  9. Oh well, I feel committed now even though a bit of initial research shows I may have picked a 'hard' kit albeit for a real 'looker' of a subject, the Albatros DVa. From Wiki, the Albatros D.V was a fighter aircraft used by the Luftstreitkräfte (Imperial German Air Service) during World War I and was the final development of the Albatros D.I family, and the last Albatros fighter to see operational service. Despite its well-known shortcomings and general obsolescence, approximately 900 D.V and 1,612 D.Va aircraft were built before production halted in early 1918. The D.Va continued in operational service until the end of the war. The D.V closely resembled the D.III and used the same 127 kW (170 hp) Mercedes D.IIIa engine. The most notable difference was a new, fully elliptical cross-section fuselage which was 32 kg (71 lb) lighter than the partially flat-sided fuselage of the earlier D.I through D.III designs. The prototype D.V retained the standard rudder of the Johannisthal-built D.III but production examples used the enlarged rudder featured on D.IIIs built by Ostdeutsche Albatros Werke (OAW).[2] The D.V also featured a larger spinner and ventral fin. The only significant difference between wings of the D.III and D.V was a revised routing of the aileron cables that placed them entirely within the upper wing. The D.V entered service in May 1917 and structural failures of the lower wing immediately occurred. Front line pilots were considerably dismayed and many preferred the older D.III; Manfred von Richthofen was particularly critical of the new aircraft. Albatros responded with the D.Va, which featured stronger wing spars, heavier wing ribs and a reinforced fuselage.[8] The modified D.Va was 23 kg (51 lb) heavier than the D.III but the structural problems were not entirely cured. Use of the high-compression 130 kW (180 hp) Mercedes D.IIIaü engine offset the increased weight of the D.Va.[9] The D.Va also reverted to the D.III aileron cable linkage, running outwards through the lower wing, then upwards to the ailerons to provide a more positive control response. To further strengthen the wing, the D.Va added a small diagonal brace connecting the forward interplane strut to the leading edge of the lower wing. Apparently, the kit more represents the DV so, there is a bit of additional bracing and control wires which can be added to better represent the DVa. (Plus, I have read that the kit may have detail issues with the spinner, prop blades and engine as well as having the standard no cockpit details). I'll also do rigging which is fairly simple on this aircraft. Lastly, producing a 'varnished spruce' finish on the fuselage and getting the right shade of 'mauve' for the camouflage could be challenging, or even character-building! Here is the kit then:
  10. I'm feeling confident about finishing the Comet 4B now so here is the venerable Bristol Fighter F.2B to fill the gap for '1956' - confirmed on the Airfix Tribute Forum and Scalemates agrees. I've actually got two 'boxings' of this kit - one from 1962 in the well known 'Red Stripe' bag and one from 1987 in the 'no explosions / blueprint background' with different transfers for 5 Squadron. The box is / was still sealed and you can see that at one time in its career, it was on sale in Selfridges (no less) for £1.75. The older kit looks good with no flash but the transfers...! Those roundels look like eyes squinting sideways! Instructions are the traditional 'locate and cement' kind that actually educate you in all the aircraft terminology. Date inside the fuselage says 1957 - that makes the kit older than I am. Needs to be handled appropriately. I've decided to 'squirrel away' the early kit and build the later one - I'm not an antique dealer, honest! Here it is and it is from the period when the kits made in France - the plastic is more silver as opposed to silver-grey. Still a lack of flash though and the decals are good. I think I built the 'Dogfight Double' version of this first time round (last century) and this time I fancy trying some rigging (gulp) and a 'wood effect' on the prop - there have been bags of tips on BM.
  11. Hello all, Well, I wasn't intending on taking part in this GB but the Swordfish has been somehow making it's way to the front of the cupboard regardless of which way I pack the boxes away! It's obviously trying to tell me something. Anyway here I am with Airfix's 1/72 Swordfish Mk.1. I have been looking forward to building her and her floatplane sister who is patiently waiting for the next floatplane/flying boat GB. I'm not a Swordfish aficionado so I'll hopefully get a few pointers along the way. I have become thoroughly addicted to the group build way of things mainly because taking part has got me to build more in the last few months than I have in a similar number of years, starting with the F104 STGB, then the BM10th, currently the Hawker (Siddeley) also the RAF100th, Airfix golden years, Grumman........ So in for a penny as they say. Here's the gratuitous shot of what is actually a considerable amount of plastic!
  12. Good evening fellow modellers. Recently, I bought this rather old kit, offered by Revell for a bargaining price, so naturally I could not resist it Naturally, some serious sanding was needed (especially pin marks, they're everywhere!): I've supplemented the cockpit with rib structure, seat and basic instrument panel: Painted wings and fuselage: Then decided that this kit deserves better than Spandau machine guns provided and bought Eduard's offering: Decals were quite a pain to apply, they were thick and did not respond to any decal softener at all: All in all, fitting between bottom and top wing is not ideal but with some elbow grease and a lot of patience, hey presto: There are still some things that need to be made: additional wiring, replacing wire that spans from cowling to wing with a thinner one, finish undercarriage, add pipes between engine and cooler in the wing, seatbelts, weathering, etc... Stay tuned Regards, TonkaGR.1
  13. Hi All, This will be my first WIP and just my second build after circa 30 years of a layoff from kit building. After such a long break I reckoned I'd be pretty much be starting from scratch again so picked up a few of Revells' old Bi-Plane kits as practice pieces before getting stuck into some of the nicer or more complex kits that are on my wish list. I also reckoned that I could do with some inspiration and guidance along the way which led me to lurking here before eventually joining the forum and getting involved. My first attempt was an Airfix Vampire which I ended up painting twice and still not being happy with the end result but it was an enjoyable experience and I learned a lot. It ended up like this... Vampire T11 B by Martin Fay, on Flickr Vampire T11 by Martin Fay, on Flickr I've got a pretty thick skin so constructive criticism and advice along the way is both welcome and appreciated.
  14. Hi. I present my new model with topic "Yellow Wings". This time: Grumman FF-1 (FiFi), which is my first biplane. Model present FF-1 with VF-5B "Red Rippers" on the USS "Lexington" in 1934. ---- Previous parts: Yellow Wings part 1 Northrop BT-1 Yellow Wings part 2 Vought SB2U-1 Vindicator Bye for now, Jaro
  15. Morning all, I haven't done a WIP in a while so I thought I might have a go with the new Airfix BE2c (1:72). I'm planning to do this as an "out of the box" build-apart from one or two scratchbuilt details along the way. First, the kit. A nice, small and sturdy box The contents. Exceptionally good decals, very neat! Clear windscreens without any blemishes, the only problem is that they are terribly small! The sprues- one or two ejector pin marks on the inside of the fuselage- but these are out of sight when the cockpit is fitted. Sam
  16. Having a break from painting (a wall not the plastic) I glanced at the stash and thought " why have I 3 biplanes and 2 Parsols when I hate rigging?"...and thus the story begins... Would it be sacrilege to wiff with a Matchbox Walrus? Probably not thanks to the Revell re-issue, albeit without the multicolored plastic we all love so dearly. ok so ideas now began to form in my crazy mind... Turn this: into this: From Turning to Burning. Or maybe this: Monoplane it (although Supermarine already beat me to this with the Seagull) Or a simpler: Just drop the rigging, and repaint in a new scheme wether alternative warbird or civi. Of course there other whacky options: 'gunship' - rockets, torpedos, turrets etc 'electric' - long before the EKA-3, predating the F3D-2Q, and making even the TBM-3Q seem positively modern. '2000' - well if Dornier can modernise their WW2 vintage boats... 'racer' - didn't a Walrus do a lap at Reno? Not looking like this... ...and I'm sure there more! Some things would be hampered by the rather bare stores box, others by the skill box - but nothing by the 'outside the box'
  17. At Wonderland Models we have three new plastic model kits from Eduard. The new releases include: The 1/48 Aussie Eight Spitfire Mk.VII Dual Combo Limited Edition, a 1/72 Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-15 UTI Profipack, and the 1/48 Spad XIII Weekend Edition. For full details see our current newsletter here.
  18. Hey everyone , This is my 1/72 Airfix Sopwith Pup, finally got it finished after about 2 months of on and off building Please have read and take a look Brief History The Sopwith Pup was a British biplane fighter built by Sopwith Aviation Company in 1916. It entered service with 'A' Squadron of the RNAS (Navy Branch) in May 1916. By October that year, the plane was on the Western Front fighting with 8(N) squadron where it's exceptional performance saw it shoot down 20 German aircraft in 4 months. In December of 1916, the RFC received their first Pup, with it being used in 3,4,8 and 9(N) Squadrons before being replaced by the heavier-armed Sopwith Camel in mid 1917. The Camel was a much more successful aircraft, having credited over 1 200 enemy fighters destroyed; and it's ground-attack role also being effective until the end of the war. The Model I found this build easy enough for a beginner like myself, but the kit did need a bit of filler here and there and some work done, but hey can't complain The fit was alright, and the painting etc. was easy enough. Scheme This is Sopwith Pup N6453. Flown by Squadron Commander Edwin Harris Dunning DSC (1892-1917). Dunning was credited for the first pilot to land an aircraft on a moving ship, when on 02/08/1917 he landed on HMS Furious. Tragically, he was killed the second time he attempted it when the engine stalled on approach. He is buried at St. Lawrence's Church, Bradfield, Essex. Thanks for looking Dylan P.S Yes I didn't attempt rigging
  19. Hey again everyone, So tonight after finishing my Tiger, I decided it was time to start something new. I found this on one of my shelves, don't know if they still sell them anymore - was £50 at the time though and I got it in 2009 (when I was 9, yes) for the 100 years of Naval Aviation thingy. As you can see, it contains a Sopwith Pup, Fairey Swordfish, Vought Corsair, Westland Lynx? (I think) and a Harrier. Here is the box:And with everything out : Sopwith Pup, Fairey Swordfish, Vought Corsaid, Westland Lynx (Navy) and Harrier. (FROM LEFT TO RIGHT)It also has in it a lovely little booklet (With history etc.) , instructions, sheet of decals, 12 X paints, glue + 2 X Brushes. Here is the scheme (only one here) that the plane follows in full colour! And the instructions - only one sheet of A4, very simple and nice - apologies for the blurry picture though Now, down to the actual kit. It was sealed in a bag which (I guess) helps to protect everything, there was not much flash on the whole and, being a smaller kit, it only came with 2 Half-Sized sprues of normal Airfix grey plastic. When I opened the bag: Now, the initial construction started off with gluing the Pilot (nicely molded in an apt position) who I called Jeff - into his seat Happy days as far as Jeff's concerned, he gets £1 for doing it (comparison). After I'd done that, it took me less than 5 minutes to assemble everything in the cockpit, the machine gun, engine and propellers. Here is a picture of them done, prior to painting. I have a vague idea of what I'm doing *insert comical laughter* at the moment, and when Jeff + his BEAUTIFUL cockpit are done then the 2 fuselage halves will be joined together to create something wonderful - my child. First plane ever hmm.... *****More updates when i build them***** (and paint, obviously) Thanks for reading guys + girlies CP
  20. I am planning a DH9a to DH 16 project. So far I have found good photographs on the net which explain a lot but only one basic drawing which appears to be taken from the Putnam publication. I am trying to understand how the original was converted, there is mention of a new 'wider' fuselage, the photographs appear to show the same width at the undercarriage but perhaps the taper starting further back. Is there a good published drawing of this aircraft which show the changes to the fuselage anound the cabin and engine? All help gratefully received .
  21. Had this one on the on and off for a couple of weeks, Only the second biplane I have ever rigged and the first 1:72 This was mainly a test run to see what pitfalls lay ahead when I tackle Airfix's new 1:72 Gladiator. I'm not entirely happy with this one but at least I know what to do on the next. And finally one for scale Thanks for looking
  22. Here’s my attempt at the 1:48 Accurate Miniatures Grumman F3F-1, which I completed several years ago. It’s built straight from the box, aside from the antenna wires I added. The kit is a real jewel, and goes together beautifully – any flaws are mine alone. Accurate Miniatures was my favorite model company, and I really hate they went under. The kits they produced were – and still are – some of the best examples of their kind ever made. I finished it with kit decals to depict an F3F-1 from Fighting Four deployed aboard USS Ranger in 1937.
  23. Hi There Normally I model in 1/72 and, mostly, WWII allied aircraft flown by/for the RCAF. Lately I have started to grow warm to WWI aircraft that were flown by Canadian pilots. I've been able to build and rig a nice little Roden Sopwith Camel and Eduard's little Nieuport 17. When I started looking for a decent DH2 though I decided to up the scale to 48th and attempt Eduard's boxing. Well, I've painted her and I'll apply the decals (likely tonight) and then it's a matter of rigging before I "finish" her off. My question regarding rigging is as follows: Normally, for 1/72 I would just rig the bird using stretched sprue - just seems to be the easiest in that scale. Well, now 1/48th is a bit larger and I have the right invisible mending thread to rig with but I've not drilled any holes just yet. Is it too late in the game? I've painted her and applied a gloss coat to put the decals down but that's the extent of it - struts have not yet been glued into place so I'm not too far along. In the future I'll be sure to plan a bit better but the excitement got the better of me this time around Just curious if I can still take care of it at this stage. Cheers, Dave P.S. I've read a good thread here already on the topic of how to rig.. ( www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234931805-rigging-for-a-novice/ ) so I'm not worried about tackling it.. just curious if I can still do it at this stage
  24. Rib Tape Decals 1:48 HGW WWI biplanes were usually fabric covered, and made predominantly of wood to keep the weight down, so any joins between the fabric surfaces and the inner structure would need reinforcing to prevent the cloth from ripping under stress. Rib tape was usually used to do the job, and was usually barely visible as a raised area over the ribs to which the fabric was attached. Other non-structural areas were basically sewn, or laced together using fabric edging tape with eyelets sewn in. This is a tricky effect to carry off on a model, and the smaller the scale, the harder it gets. HGW's new product, a rib-tape decal is an innovative and simple way of giving your "stringbag" a more authentic look. The product is a simple decal sheet, with 28 lengths of tape decal at around 14.5cm long each line. A further seven lines of stitching is included for good measure, and both designs have printed fixing and stitching to add more realism. The modeller simply cuts off a length of the correct type, wets the decal as usual and applies it to the model, lining it up carefully with the ribs. A little decal solution will help the tape snuggle down and conform to the surface below. Once dry, it can be sealed with varnish if you are modelling a bare linen aircraft, or painted over as is more likely. That may sound like a waste of decaling time, but the thickness of the decals, and the over-printed stitching patterns does show up under a further layer of paint, as can be seen from the example below, which was culled from HGW's website. Conclusion This is a great product, and well worth purchasing if you are looking to improve the look of your fabric covered aircraft. Simplicity of application is key, as most, if not all modellers can decal, and all you have to do is ensure that the tapes all line up. Highly recommended. Review samples courtesy of
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