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Found 11 results

  1. Good day. I have just started using my airbrush after some brief testing about 30 years ago. So far, I've sprayed some Tamiya and Gunze-Sangyo acrylics with pretty good results, using their propriety thinners I have a a goodly stash of both Polly paints and was wondering about airbrushing them. Can they be sprayed? What should be used as a thinner. Would a flow inhancer/ drying retarder be used? Cheis
  2. We at Riders Hobby Shop (U.S. based) are looking at carrying a new line of paints manufactured by Mission Models. They are or will soon be available world wide. Currently available only from the manufacturer with no alternate distributors. I have not had a chance to use these colours yet myself but online reviews seem to be pretty good. Britmodeler lets me reach out a bit farther around the world to ask if any of you guys had used this stuff and what your opinions on it were. Thanks for your opinions guys!
  3. Hi I have an old basic compressor 2.5 bar 50 l/m I am looking for a regulator to fit but can only find ones with a much larger pressure range Does anybody have any ideas where I could get one Thanks David Hill
  4. I've not long had one of these fold up spray booths.. I've been using a rattle can to undercoat as an interim until I get an airbrsuh & compressor. As can be expected, the filter has become a bit clogged so I'm looking for replacement filters. I know that this filter material can be purchased as a roll, then cut to size. Does anybody else buy it on a roll and where's the best place to get it from? Other than that, is there anywhere that I can obtain these filters in bulk or multipacks? Thanks everyone. Regards Martin
  5. Hi everyone i have been modelling for around 14 years and spent most of it using a rattle can and a good old hairy stick, however i want to start using an airbrush as i seem to be stuggling on getting a great finish. I have around a £100 - £130 and im looking for a setup which i can use to do fine detail painting as well as painting full car bodyshells in 1/24th and also aircraft fueselages too. I have very little knowledge on airbrushes so im putting the question out to you guys. What is the best kit for a airbrush trainee and what could i get for my budget. I would be greatly appreciated for any advice given. Graham
  6. Hi all, For masking when airbrushing I have used a number of the usual camo techniques - paper masks, white bluetack worms, hand spraying, etc. I prefer the paper masks that I create using 3-view drawings references etc but getting them adhered to the model adequately is an issue for me. Often the depth of the worms (or looped Tamiya tape) is variable and I then get some "blow" under some of the edges. I wonder if there is a product out in the market that has the adhesive qualities of Tamiya tape but is a roil instead of flat tape. What I am thinking is a 2mm(?) worm on a roll that can be relied upon to give correct and regular depth and can be bent and shaped around complex curves. Does anyone know? If such a thing doesn't exist I'll patent it!! I'd appreciate your collective thoughts. Thanks. Martin
  7. Hello, I'm new to airbrushing and I'm experiencing some problems. Whenever I'm spraying paint the paint never seems to dry, it just sits there and stays wet and will turn to a very dark colour. Is my pressure wrong or is my paint too thin? I'm currently using Humbrol acrylic paints and I'm using Humbrol acrylic thinners. My airbrush is a H&S Infinity and I'm using a Sparmax TC-610H compressor. If someone can tell me what the problem is that would be most helpful. Thank You Fraser
  8. NOTICE: On day 6 it is clear that I have either damaged the airbrush, or, the airbrush was perhaps not that good in the first place. I get near instant clogging and I see the paint flow being inconsistent as I gradually try increase the paint flow with the lever, if I screw on the nozzle cap too much. Apparently there is a sweet spot, that makes the paint flow seemingly perfect, with a nice spray, with no clogging. So I can still use this airbrush I think, until I try out some spare parts or buy a new one. Edit: Warning: Since I started a few days ago, I might have learned a few more things about my airbrush, so take what I write with a grain of salt so to speak, or rather, take into consideration that what I write in each post might in worst case be wrong. Day 0 I have bought a new air compressor with a 4L tank, but the connecting part between the compressor and the airbrush is not airtight. No point trying out airbrushing this way. Day 1 Finally, today I managed to acquire some rubber O-rings, and I used 3-4 of them to stop the leaking connection between my new and expensive 4L compressor (Faller Air Boss/Sil-Air 15D variant?) and my el cheapo airbrush (BD-130). The connector that came with the airbrush doesn't fit my compressor (both appear to be 1/4" connections though), I can screw it on a little, but don't dare tighten it, putting in O-rings fixed the leakage. Temp = 22 deg C Rel. Humidity = 25-40% (true value unknown, I have apparently two crappy hygrometers, one digital and one analogue, each in different rooms) Compressor PSI set to eh 20+ when putting on primer, ca 30 psi when putting on color. After quite some time of fun airbrushing regular Vallejo color, having started with mucho clogging when trying out the Vallejo Gray Primer on a non painted model for practise, I came to realize that I had the wrong needle in the airbrush. Before I started airbrushing, I had removed the 0.3 or maybe a 0.35 nozzle from the airbrush and put on the optional 0.5 nozzle, but aha I forgot to switch out the needle for a 0.5 one. Even with the nozzle cap on, the needle stuck outside the cap, something I thought looked rather odd, but I didn't know any better. So I ended up airbrushing with a 0.5 nozzle, together with a 0.3 or perhaps a 0.35 needle. I had managed to paint some Vallejo Dark Sea Gray onto a lighter gray colored plastic model (previous enamel paint), and I thought the end result was really nice. I am looking forward to try out airbrushing Tamiya X-22 Clear coat over it, to see if the surface becomes more smooth, or at least to see if I can get an even shine over the whole surface. Before doing a clear coat, I might as well try out some masking and put on some white invasion stripes for fun. I have no idea if the mucho clogging with the Vallejo gray primer was due to wrong needle, the airbrushing or if I should have mixed it with something. I think I added some Vallejo airbush thinner, but maybe it was too little. As I started airbrushing a submarine stand I had lying around, with primer, it became clear that I wouldn't be able to finish it in anything resembling normal time, because of the clogging. Hopefully, now that I have fixed my "wrong needle" issue, I hope I get to see a different result tomorrow. Things I did, that I perhaps shouldn't have: At the end, I thought, why not add some thinner to the medium sized flash of Vallejo Gray Primer, so I poured some of that into it. I also added a ball bearing, and so I had put that into the flask, no idea if that really helps with this kind of paint. I think I managed to get to airbrush the wing of an airplane model properly. I had the airbrush about 8cm from the model. I guess I thought that 20+ psi was ok, but with the trouble I had with the primer, I tried upping the psi towards 30 for airbrushing the color afterwards. I'll go back to 20'ish the next time. Noteworthy things: - Seems I should buy some cheap non Vallejo airbrush cleaner somewhere, because I used a lot on my first airbrush session. I cleaned the airbrush maybe four times, and felt comfortable doing it. - When I fill some airbrush cleaning liquid into the airbrush and adjust the paint flow ratio towards maximum, I see a nice spray, maybe 4 cm in diameter at 10cm distance (roughly). - I find it a little difficult judging how much paint is sprayed on a surface, if the surface already has some paint on it. - The best indication of flow, seem to when I spray cleaning liquid onto my hand (wearing a non-latex glove/100% "nitril"). - I realized I should improve the lighting a little. Best to have good lighting conditions, otherwise it is difficult to see how the spray is applied on the surface of the model. - I did try out airbrushing bare plastic, and it went well. If using the gray primer doesn't improve, I am tempted to simply airbrush paint without a layer of primer. No idea if the paint might chip off that way. I feel confident that I can airbrush a project soon, if I do a little planning to avoid making known mistakes.
  9. Notice: Go here to see a later post in this thread to see the final result: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234991809-finished-homemade-spray-booth-project-an-attempt/?p=2186396 I will have to do some detective work, but I thought I'd start by making this thread. I acquired this nice transparent storage case shown in the image below, and I have 6x used Noctua NF-P12 fans that fit nicely at the bottom of the case. I think I can make this work, but there is one problem that I am not sure how to deal with: Q: How do I power the six 12V (1watt) fans from the 230V power outlet? Presumably this is easy, but I have really no idea. Hopefully someone knowledgeable can chime in and state the obvious solution. That would be much appreciated. Putting on a hose and finishing the rear part behind the fans seems easy, so the power conversion problem is what seem difficult for me at this point. Ah, I forgot to point out the specifications for the NF-P12 fans: DC 12V (unsure if the 'direct current' part is important) Size: 120 x 120 x 25mm Rotational speed = approx 1300 rpm Airflow = 92,3 m3/h = 1,54m3/min = 54 cfm Static pressure = 1,68mm H2O Acoustic noise = ca 20 dB Input power = 1,08 W Input current = 0,09 A 1,54 x 6 = 9,24 m3/min = 324 cfm (unsure if it makes good sense multiplying these numbers by six) 9,24 seem to be double of what a popular spray booth seem to push out, though I am not certain the numbers for these two solutions are directly comparable. *unsure* Edit: Hm, I wonder if the six fans would be powerful enough. The popular spray booth on Amazon uses supposedly a 25W fan, which seem more powerful than my 6,5W setup. Not sure what to think about this. I have a 15cm wide table fan that uses 20W, that one doesn't really feel that powerful to me. Hm, I vaguely recall my compressor having 17L/min airflow, roughly 40-50psi constant pressure, unless I am totally mistaken. Maybe around 9L/min with 25 psi? Just guessing though.
  10. Hi All, I am very much a novice at airbrushing and learning has been a very steep curve for me. I am very pleased that I started on Tamiya Acrylics as they were/are very forgiving and meant that, for me, very little frustration with clogging and tip drying etc so that I could concentrate on technique. However, moving on, I find Tamiya's range of colours limiting, particularly when it comes to the RLM colours, so finding the Italeri Acrylic Luftwaffe set I was over the moon. After purchasing them my joy soon turned to frustration. I could not get them to airbrush nicely, constantly clogging and spitting, a real disaster! So I researched on the net and low and behold, from the little I found, I was really messing up using alcohol as a thinner (assuming it was the same as the Tamiya paint). So here is what I have learnt over what has been a number of months of pure frustration. 1. Never use alcohol to thin or clean your airbrush (if you clean it with alcohol make sure it is perfectly clean of any alcohol residue, even the smallest trace will cause your tip to block) 2. Some people say that they use windex or other window cleaner to thin the paint. I cannot say that I have had any luck with it and the tip either clogs or the paint dries on it. 3. Use distilled water to thin and clean your airbrush. As I mentioned the slightest contaminant will cause issues. (but you can use them without thinning. It looks really thick but seems to airbrush fine) 4. While not as forgiving as the alcohol based acrylics (and I would recommend absolute beginners to start with the likes of the Tamiya offerings because of this) once mastered they airbrush very nicely with next to no odour and very little aerosoling making them ideal for the home hobbyist. 5. They are not as robust as enamel or alcohol based paints so a good coat of varnish is a must before too much handling. Thanks for taking the time to read this and, of course, this is what worked for me. I hope that this can help others out there that may be struggling with these paints and cannot figure out why. Although I have never used Vallejo paints, I understand they are the same as the Italeri so the above should work equally well with them. Once again thanks for looking and any comments or tips are greatly appreciated. Shane
  11. Morning all, Are earth colours difficult to airbrush? I'm painting an Amera Nissen hut using Humbrol Dark Earth 29 and it's proving difficult to get an even coating, with some splattering & it's pretty powdery. I know from my days in the art materials business that artists' earth colours are in effect ground up mud in the relevant medium (oil, watercolour etc) - is this the same with modelling paint? Any way round the problems? Thx Andrew
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