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Hi there, I am hoping that I can pick the brains of those of you who have experience airbrushing with Revell Aqua acrylics, as I am having a real battle getting a smooth finish on a Ferrari 458 build. I have a H&S Evolution, and used Humbrol grey spray primer prior to spraying. After reading as much info as possible, I thinned the paint to the 'semi skimmed milk' consistency using de-ionised water. I sprayed in light coats, gradually building up the thickness. However, for some reason, I am getting a rough sand paper-like finish, usually semi-gloss. I have changed the air pressure from 25 psi sprayed at about 10/12 cm distance to 15psi sprayed at half that distance. I also thinned the paint less the closer I was to the model. I have now stripped it three times and have no idea how to solve this, apart from sanding with 5000 grit then covering with Alclad 2 Aqua Gloss in the hope it will look OK. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have a few images but am not sure how to post them? Many thanks, Ant.

Hi chaps. I've heard great things about molotow liquid chrome pens, and decided to pick one up to try. I've not used it yet, but am about to start a kit that needs extensive chrome stripping and re applying. Due to the large amount of painting needed I was hoping to airbrush it all. Can anyone tell me if the the molotow paint needs thinning? If so what would anyone recommend? Thanks in advance. Matt

I'm completely new to all of this and so I have bought myself a 50 litre compressor and an Iwata HP-CS Airbrush. The little problem I have is that there is nothing in between to connect the two...! I went onto the Iwata website and was just bamboozled with all sorts of connections and fitments, and with nothing actually in the paperwork regarding thread sizes or internal or external diameters, I'm just left wondering, "What the hell do I need!" Does anyone has some insight into making this as simple as possible?

Hi, I’m getting back into model making after 30 years and came across your (very useful) website – a great resource. I have just bought an H&S Evolution airbrush and am only using acrylic (water-based) paints for my bike or car projects. So far I have found that the Revell Aqua paint sprays okay, whilst I can’t seem to get on with Humbrol at all (variable results across pots of the same colour) My question is this – which water based acrylics give the best metallic finish (ie on exhausts, wheels, engine covers, etc)? From what I can see there are quite a few makes to choose from here in the UK: AK Extreme Metal, Vallajo Metal Colour, Vallajo Model Air, etc – do they all have to be used over a primer? And if so, what type (matt/gloss)? Can these all be sprayed with a clear coat to protect/enhance them? What are the acrylic (non-solvent) clear coats like to use? The biggest attraction of these for me is that they are water-based and thus make cleaning the airbrush easy and odour free. Any advice greatly received, thanks!

I heard of using an airbrush to paint on decal paper but can't find anything on it. I use a laser printer and laser paper if it matters. I want to know, should I use just acrylic paint and do I put the decal film on before and/or just after.

https://www.amazon.de/Gocheer-100-250V-Kompressor-Modellbau-Reinigung-TS100BMC/dp/B071XVWZ3C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1531083626&sr=8-3&keywords=airbrush This set was suggested to me by an ig scale modelling account and it looks really good. Does anyone else have this specific set and would you recommend it for a beginner with a tight budget

Hi guys, I'll be perfectly honest in that I joined here to share some information i gathered while researching airbrushes. I'm not a modeller, but an airbrush artist and custom painter/scenic artist. I've done a lot of work for disney world and some of you guys might have seen some of my work in the form of talking tikis at the mini golf course in hastings. I'll post what i've found in the appropriate section as soon as i figure out what that is

So today, whilst discovering that somehow my last cleaning job had missed a bit of paint on the needle, I set about cleaning my airbrush. I recently started removing the nozzle to push the needle out the front to try and avoid fouling in the rear. Unfortunately, as I tightened that back up, it sheared, with the threaded section now inside the airbrush. I've seen a vid where you can potentially remove it, but even if I do, trying to find a compatible nozzle could be an issue. I spotted one airbrush that looks identical to the one I have, but is a different make. Only £11.59, with a 4.5 star review. So long as it did the job I'd be happy with it. I then saw a Sparmax Max 3 for £50. It apparently comes with an adapter for use with diaphragm compressors, which I think my little three-mode one is. My question is, would a continuous flow of air blow out as it currently does with my other two airbrushes (my old Revell one will work for now, but the cup is tiny on it), which is great for quick drying. I don't use them in dual action. The Revell one was single, and I somehow made the other work in single. I ask primarily because a review video I saw didn't seem to be letting air flow through once the trigger was released, but I figured tha maybe because the reviewer was using a tank compressor. If anyone could clarify whether or not the Sparmax Max 3 would continue to release air when I release the trigger, that'd be a big help https://www.emodels.co.uk/sparmax-max-3-airbrush-with-pre-set-handle-and-crown-cap-sp-max-3.html This is the airbrush/compressor combo I have been using https://www.amazon.co.uk/Floureon-Airbrush-Compressor-Action-Artwork/dp/B01LZI6UG7 The cheap, potential replacement. https://www.amazon.co.uk/0-2mm-Dual-Gravity-Feed-Airbrush/dp/B00832H5VO/ref=pd_vtph_328_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XV63P4BA09SZFZKXNCA4 Cheers, Gaz

I'm having a lot of ideas at the moment. The latest is to build a DIY spray booth, (for when I've sorted out an airbrush), but what concerns me are the electrics. Assuming that I've got the right parts - bathroom extractor fan, 3-core, on/off switch and 3-pin plug, does anyone have an idea on how to wire these things up? I only ask, because I'm a simple mechanical engineer and can attach bits together, but have always seen electrics as a bit of a black art.. Any advice would be appreciated.

Universal Airbrush Accessories Iwata from Airbrushes.com Lube Everyone wants to keep their airbrush in top condition, after all they are not cheap. This is a non toxic silicone free lubricant from Iwata which can be used on all moving parts. In particular they recommend applying it to; The Main Lever, Needle Packing, Valve-piston packing, along the needle and the needle cap to enhance paint flow and prevent tip drying. This is a new formula and is now clear. This new formula does not evaporate and maintains its viscosity. Recommended to keep your Airbrush in tip top condition. Spray Out Cleaning Pot This is a universal pot to allow spraying out paint and cleaning products from your Airbrush. This is a glass pot the lower part of which is covered with a removable rubber sleeve. This stops the pot from sliding of your work bench, and if it does in someway will offer some protection from breaking. There is a hanger which will fit all gravity-side-bottom feed and trigger style brushes (sp pretty much all of them then!). There is a filter cap which holds small foam type filters of which you get two spares in the box (these are also available to buy separate). The cap can even hold small parts if you dont want them rolling around. The pot eliminates over-spray when cleaning and its easy to clean up afterwards. The glass bowl when removed from its sleeve is even dishwasher safe. Highly recommended, especially if like me you have just been using an old jar for this. Airbrush Holder / Hanger As the name would suggest this is holder to keep your brush(es) safe on the bench. This is universal and will hold two brushes of any combination. The design holds your brushes securely and prevents them from being accidentally pulled off. There is a heavy duty clamp which will open up to 3 inches (75mm). The box also includes a bracket to attach the cleaning pot to the stand. Workstation As mentioned the Spray out pot can be attached to the airbrush holder to create a Workstation. In addition there are tapped holes and a screw to mount a pressure regulator here as well if needed. If purchased as a work station there is a cost saving as well. Conclusion These are some handy tools from Iwata which will fit most airbrushes out there and will help keep your equipment in good condition. Recommended. Review samples courtesy of

Hi guys Totally new to this forum so this is my first post. Im a brush painter and am really happy with the quality im getting so far. Although now i have a project planned which will require an airbrush. I need to create a gradiant and feel i need an airbrush for the task. As this will be my first adventure into airbrushing I thought id start at entry level. I wondred if anyone could take a perk at these airbrush sets i found ebay and tell me if theyd run tamiya and vallejo acrylics through them. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262787237714 Or this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142449225239 Thanks for any replies Regards

Summer offer Limited to the first 5 takers..... We have 5 copies of Meinrad Martin Froschin book A Beginners Guide to Airbrushing retailing at £12.99. A copy of the book will be including free with the next 5 Airbrush and compressor sets sold in August, so be Quick ! Forgot to add a link to the sets, so here it is: http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/airbrush--compressor-sets-196-c.asp Thanks, Paul

Evening all. Bit of a little conundrum here. I've been airbrushing my models for about a year, but recently my Revell Basic Airbrush and Compressor Set has been on its way out. I've always used the lowest pressure setting and its started making a clunky noise when in operation (something rattling in it too). After buying three separate replacements of the same set (but which ended up being the European version and not the UK one) and sending them back due to really poor performance, I turned to a mini-compressor set I found on Amazon, specifically this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Floureon-Airbrush-Compressor-Action-Artwork/dp/B01LZI6UG7/ref=pd_sbs_21_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KQZDRWDW74TNWQ44MT75 So far it has the same kind of operation and performs more like my original set, but I'm having an issue with spatter. The set has a double-action airbrush, but I swapped out the connector with that of my single action airbrush, which then connects into the supplied filter. This corrects the problem of the airbrush spitting out globs of paint whenever I trigger the airflow, but the paint on the whole still seems to be spitting finely around the target area. I'm using the same paint, thinned to the same level, as I did before without issue, so I'm a bit stumped. The needle is clean and straight, the pressure seems to be comparable to my previous compressor, and the paint is the same. So I'm not particularly sure what to do. There's a little adjusting screw at the back of the airbrush, which my original didn't have. I don't know if that could avert that, but playing around with it while the airbrush isn't running told me it tightens the trigger until it doesn't move. Any ideas on what I could do to rectify this? Its not so bad for larger work, although it would be less efficient since the paint is spraying beyond where its intended, but details could be problematic, especially freehand camo. P.S. I'm using Tamiya paint, which I thin in the pots to the same level. Gaz

Hi All, I'm sure the regulars must be fed up of threads like this but I'm going to ask for help anyway. I'd like to get an airbrush kit that I can use for painting models, toys and detail work on motorcycles (pinstriping, touch-ups, flames etc... nothing large) I'm fortunate enough to have a decent budget available and would prefer to buy decent quality tools that will last and can be maintained rather than something that will wear out or will become limiting very quickly. Long term spares availability is important to me. I've done some research and find that a gravity fed, dual action airbrush paired with a compressor with a receiver tank seems to be the popular option. Any suggestions on what I should be looking at and what nozzle sizes are most suitable whilst learning? Apart from the airbrush and compressor what else should I budget for? Routine cleaning materials and tools? Moisture trap and regulator? Respirator? Spares? Consumables? Budget wise I was thinking circa £350ish but that's flexible. Basically I'm looking for the sweet spot In the budget range where I'm getting good quality and features without going OTT on specs or features that I'll never need as a hobbyist. Any help or advice will be gratefully received. Martin

Can anyone help... I have been airbrushing for a few weeks now & a new phenomena has occurred this morning that has me foxed. With a full 5ml of stynlyrez primer in the cup I began to do some serious priming - BUT - after a few minutes my brush started to just spray water? even though the cup is still fairly full. More tests on a piece of card show the paint is coming through - but seems "diluted" & is puddling on my model & a piece of test cardboard - WEIRD!!! I've just tried posting a pic - but failed miserably... On further inspection of my compressor - the moisture trap (clear plastic bowl) is fogged with moisture. I've unscrewed it & dried it out - but there was actually very little moisture in it to be fair. Any ideas or things to try would be appreciated. Thanks in advance - Steve

I'll have a few airbrush offers at the show on Saturday. Firstly two of our most popular starter sets are reduced by £15. The first features the Sparmax GP-35 trigger airbrush. This is a general purpose brush that is very easy to use and can paint down to about 3mm as well as cover areas with ease. The set has our little-jet compressor, quiet, up to 30 psi, 40 minute duty cycle compressor, also made by sparmax. As well as a cleaning pot/stand, face mask and set of cleaning brushes. Both have 24 month warranties. All for £210 The second set is the same, but featuring the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline 2in1 airbrush, for only £255 Finally the same set with the H&S started Ultra 2in1 airbrush set for only £205. All the brushes and compressors can be seen on our website. www.modellingtools.co.uk I'm sure there will be a lot of other bargains at the show as well, so hope to see some of you tomorrow. Paul Thanks, Paul

Hello everyone. Been a fan of this site for a while, now compelled to post as I'm at my wits end with my airbrush setup. Years ago (2006?) I bought my first compressor, a Sparmax AC-27. I used it with an old Badger airbrush until its needle bent. After moving house, the Sparmax sat in the shed until six months ago, when I returned to modelling and bought an Iwata Revolution. For a while, everything was fine. I did my research, cared for the brush and learnt a great deal in a short time. However, all of this fell apart in the last two weeks. The initial problems were solved through cleaning. But recently things have become much worse, with heavy, intermittent splattering, or paint congealing on the needle and dripping off. Paint will often spur from the needle after returning the trigger to its resting position. Often I am not getting any pressure coming through the nozzle. My paints are all properly thinned and I have attempted to spray with Vallejo, Gunze and Citadel paints. I'm tearing my hair out. I do not think the airbrush is at fault as I have disassembled it numerous times and thoroughly cleaned it. Am I right in suspecting the long neglected compressor? Air is still coming through the hose, alongside some water. As far as I can tell, it has no leaking air. Another possible sign of internal damage is the compressor will cut out if I go above 25 psi. Sorry for the lengthy post but I've tried to be as informative as possible regarding details. If anyone can help it would be much appreciated. Many thanks!

Wondering if there is a lighting expert in house? Converting this to a spray booth and would like to mount a light(s) on the top portion. Lots of options, LED, Halogen, fluorescent.......input appreciated. Robert

Hi, I recently found a compressor and two airbrushes. The airbrushes are Badger 200NH and Badger 155 Anthem. Currently I only have access to Revell Enamels in the little 14ml cans. So I was wondering whether it's possible to thin them down enough with whitespirit (Seems like I have an infinite supply of it haha), to be able to use them with the airbrushes.

Hi All, I've taken the plunge and have ordered an Airbrush and Compressor. I now have to decide what paint to use while I'm learning to use this new tool. I'd prefer to stick with a single brand to avoid any potential compatibility issues between paints, thinners and cleaners. I'd also prefer a brand that's reasonably readily available in Europe. I'll be spraying in a shed, rather than in the house, and have an extractor so strong smells aren't necessarily a deal breaker. Ease of use for a beginner and ease of clean up are high on my priority list. So what's your recommendation for primers, clear coats and colours? Is Vallejo a solid choice or should I be looking elsewhere?

I am hoping this will prove to be the correct place to post this question: In a short while I will be off on holiday on my canal boat, I am signed-up for a GB so will be making an aircraft model during 'down time'. Space is a premium and I will be taking my spray booth but my compressor might be too much gear! I have used can propellant back in the day (small compressors used to be quite expensive back then) so I am reasonably aware of their shortcomings. Has anybody tried to fit a pressure regulator, as used on a compressor, to a propellant can? Would it work to supply the 15psi I tend to use, would it help to reduce the likely hood of icing-up as the airbrush demands would be less, would it cause the propellant to last longer by reducing waste? Hmmmm rather more than one question methinks! Thank you and I look forward to some constructive advise (in the meantime I will see if I can cobble together a suitable mechanism and give it a go.)

I was wondering if it was possiabe to use a genuine badger paint head and needle in a copy airbrush that is on sale on ebay. This also goes for all the different makes that are copied I have a badger 150 with 2 heads I was just wondering if it was worth buying one of the copies to use the body to save the messing about of head changing. Rodders

Hey, I have been modelling for about 7 years now, but have never looked into getting an airbrush. I have quite a few large, American WWII bombers (B-29, B-17 and B-25) which all have a bare metal finish, so I need something to get a smooth paint finish which can cover a wide area in a relatively short amount of time. I am also planning on buying an A-10, AC-130, B-36 and a B-52 (you see the theme running ) I looked online this morning and saw that the best airbrush for beginners would be a Single-Action, Gravity-Fed, Internally-Mixed one. Now, all I need help on is deciding what nozzle size and needle is best for a large area (I don't really need a high precision one I don't think). I also need to know what air compressor and cleaning kit would be best. My budget is £50 (I know its low, but I'm broke and I don't even know if I'll be good with an airbrush xD), and it would be nice if the airbrush came in a set with a compressor and cleaning kit. I also saw both the Revell and Humbrol airbrush sets (Humbrol also do a canned air 'power-pack'), with Revell having an airbrush and a spray gun (what is the difference?). These look quite cheap, so I was wondering about any of you guys' views on them. Thanks ) P.S. I use both enamel and acrylic paints. I guess I need to thin them for airbrushing, so what should I use as a thinner. I'm guessing water for acrylic, then would it be just white spirit or turp for enamel?

Hi guys i bave recently got into airbrushing so i am getting to grips with priming my models i was just wondering do i need to thin the vallejo primer or should i spray from the bottle ? and if so what PSI should i be spraying ? thanks brandon

Hi all, just a quck question: I'm wondering how to get a nice dusty finish (such as on MickE's beautiful Wellington http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235001041-148-wellington-1c/?hl=wellington )without using pigments, but buying online is my only option, and I can't find any MiG pigments(I can also take a cheaper brand of pigment, if any) under AUD$15 ( £8) as the nearest model shop is more than 1500km (950mi) away; not really an option! I know you can also airbrush a dusty-looking covering on, but I would need some tips on this before starting. Any answers welcome!!