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  1. Universal Airbrush Accessories Iwata from Airbrushes.com Lube Everyone wants to keep their airbrush in top condition, after all they are not cheap. This is a non toxic silicone free lubricant from Iwata which can be used on all moving parts. In particular they recommend applying it to; The Main Lever, Needle Packing, Valve-piston packing, along the needle and the needle cap to enhance paint flow and prevent tip drying. This is a new formula and is now clear. This new formula does not evaporate and maintains its viscosity. Recommended to keep your Airbrush in tip top condition. Spray Out Cleaning Pot This is a universal pot to allow spraying out paint and cleaning products from your Airbrush. This is a glass pot the lower part of which is covered with a removable rubber sleeve. This stops the pot from sliding of your work bench, and if it does in someway will offer some protection from breaking. There is a hanger which will fit all gravity-side-bottom feed and trigger style brushes (sp pretty much all of them then!). There is a filter cap which holds small foam type filters of which you get two spares in the box (these are also available to buy separate). The cap can even hold small parts if you dont want them rolling around. The pot eliminates over-spray when cleaning and its easy to clean up afterwards. The glass bowl when removed from its sleeve is even dishwasher safe. Highly recommended, especially if like me you have just been using an old jar for this. Airbrush Holder / Hanger As the name would suggest this is holder to keep your brush(es) safe on the bench. This is universal and will hold two brushes of any combination. The design holds your brushes securely and prevents them from being accidentally pulled off. There is a heavy duty clamp which will open up to 3 inches (75mm). The box also includes a bracket to attach the cleaning pot to the stand. Workstation As mentioned the Spray out pot can be attached to the airbrush holder to create a Workstation. In addition there are tapped holes and a screw to mount a pressure regulator here as well if needed. If purchased as a work station there is a cost saving as well. Conclusion These are some handy tools from Iwata which will fit most airbrushes out there and will help keep your equipment in good condition. Recommended. Review samples courtesy of
  2. Hi guys Totally new to this forum so this is my first post. Im a brush painter and am really happy with the quality im getting so far. Although now i have a project planned which will require an airbrush. I need to create a gradiant and feel i need an airbrush for the task. As this will be my first adventure into airbrushing I thought id start at entry level. I wondred if anyone could take a perk at these airbrush sets i found ebay and tell me if theyd run tamiya and vallejo acrylics through them. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262787237714 Or this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142449225239 Thanks for any replies Regards
  3. Summer offer Limited to the first 5 takers..... We have 5 copies of Meinrad Martin Froschin book A Beginners Guide to Airbrushing retailing at £12.99. A copy of the book will be including free with the next 5 Airbrush and compressor sets sold in August, so be Quick ! Forgot to add a link to the sets, so here it is: http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/airbrush--compressor-sets-196-c.asp Thanks, Paul
  4. Evening all. Bit of a little conundrum here. I've been airbrushing my models for about a year, but recently my Revell Basic Airbrush and Compressor Set has been on its way out. I've always used the lowest pressure setting and its started making a clunky noise when in operation (something rattling in it too). After buying three separate replacements of the same set (but which ended up being the European version and not the UK one) and sending them back due to really poor performance, I turned to a mini-compressor set I found on Amazon, specifically this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Floureon-Airbrush-Compressor-Action-Artwork/dp/B01LZI6UG7/ref=pd_sbs_21_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KQZDRWDW74TNWQ44MT75 So far it has the same kind of operation and performs more like my original set, but I'm having an issue with spatter. The set has a double-action airbrush, but I swapped out the connector with that of my single action airbrush, which then connects into the supplied filter. This corrects the problem of the airbrush spitting out globs of paint whenever I trigger the airflow, but the paint on the whole still seems to be spitting finely around the target area. I'm using the same paint, thinned to the same level, as I did before without issue, so I'm a bit stumped. The needle is clean and straight, the pressure seems to be comparable to my previous compressor, and the paint is the same. So I'm not particularly sure what to do. There's a little adjusting screw at the back of the airbrush, which my original didn't have. I don't know if that could avert that, but playing around with it while the airbrush isn't running told me it tightens the trigger until it doesn't move. Any ideas on what I could do to rectify this? Its not so bad for larger work, although it would be less efficient since the paint is spraying beyond where its intended, but details could be problematic, especially freehand camo. P.S. I'm using Tamiya paint, which I thin in the pots to the same level. Gaz
  5. Hi All, I'm sure the regulars must be fed up of threads like this but I'm going to ask for help anyway. I'd like to get an airbrush kit that I can use for painting models, toys and detail work on motorcycles (pinstriping, touch-ups, flames etc... nothing large) I'm fortunate enough to have a decent budget available and would prefer to buy decent quality tools that will last and can be maintained rather than something that will wear out or will become limiting very quickly. Long term spares availability is important to me. I've done some research and find that a gravity fed, dual action airbrush paired with a compressor with a receiver tank seems to be the popular option. Any suggestions on what I should be looking at and what nozzle sizes are most suitable whilst learning? Apart from the airbrush and compressor what else should I budget for? Routine cleaning materials and tools? Moisture trap and regulator? Respirator? Spares? Consumables? Budget wise I was thinking circa £350ish but that's flexible. Basically I'm looking for the sweet spot In the budget range where I'm getting good quality and features without going OTT on specs or features that I'll never need as a hobbyist. Any help or advice will be gratefully received. Martin
  6. Can anyone help... I have been airbrushing for a few weeks now & a new phenomena has occurred this morning that has me foxed. With a full 5ml of stynlyrez primer in the cup I began to do some serious priming - BUT - after a few minutes my brush started to just spray water? even though the cup is still fairly full. More tests on a piece of card show the paint is coming through - but seems "diluted" & is puddling on my model & a piece of test cardboard - WEIRD!!! I've just tried posting a pic - but failed miserably... On further inspection of my compressor - the moisture trap (clear plastic bowl) is fogged with moisture. I've unscrewed it & dried it out - but there was actually very little moisture in it to be fair. Any ideas or things to try would be appreciated. Thanks in advance - Steve
  7. I'll have a few airbrush offers at the show on Saturday. Firstly two of our most popular starter sets are reduced by £15. The first features the Sparmax GP-35 trigger airbrush. This is a general purpose brush that is very easy to use and can paint down to about 3mm as well as cover areas with ease. The set has our little-jet compressor, quiet, up to 30 psi, 40 minute duty cycle compressor, also made by sparmax. As well as a cleaning pot/stand, face mask and set of cleaning brushes. Both have 24 month warranties. All for £210 The second set is the same, but featuring the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline 2in1 airbrush, for only £255 Finally the same set with the H&S started Ultra 2in1 airbrush set for only £205. All the brushes and compressors can be seen on our website. www.modellingtools.co.uk I'm sure there will be a lot of other bargains at the show as well, so hope to see some of you tomorrow. Paul Thanks, Paul
  8. Hello everyone. Been a fan of this site for a while, now compelled to post as I'm at my wits end with my airbrush setup. Years ago (2006?) I bought my first compressor, a Sparmax AC-27. I used it with an old Badger airbrush until its needle bent. After moving house, the Sparmax sat in the shed until six months ago, when I returned to modelling and bought an Iwata Revolution. For a while, everything was fine. I did my research, cared for the brush and learnt a great deal in a short time. However, all of this fell apart in the last two weeks. The initial problems were solved through cleaning. But recently things have become much worse, with heavy, intermittent splattering, or paint congealing on the needle and dripping off. Paint will often spur from the needle after returning the trigger to its resting position. Often I am not getting any pressure coming through the nozzle. My paints are all properly thinned and I have attempted to spray with Vallejo, Gunze and Citadel paints. I'm tearing my hair out. I do not think the airbrush is at fault as I have disassembled it numerous times and thoroughly cleaned it. Am I right in suspecting the long neglected compressor? Air is still coming through the hose, alongside some water. As far as I can tell, it has no leaking air. Another possible sign of internal damage is the compressor will cut out if I go above 25 psi. Sorry for the lengthy post but I've tried to be as informative as possible regarding details. If anyone can help it would be much appreciated. Many thanks!
  9. Wondering if there is a lighting expert in house? Converting this to a spray booth and would like to mount a light(s) on the top portion. Lots of options, LED, Halogen, fluorescent.......input appreciated. Robert
  10. Hi, I recently found a compressor and two airbrushes. The airbrushes are Badger 200NH and Badger 155 Anthem. Currently I only have access to Revell Enamels in the little 14ml cans. So I was wondering whether it's possible to thin them down enough with whitespirit (Seems like I have an infinite supply of it haha), to be able to use them with the airbrushes.
  11. I've entitled this piece "almost the last word in choosing an airbrush." The reason for this is that someone, or quite a few who read this are going to have a lot to say about this article. Choosing an airbrush is a personal thing. What works for one person may not work for another. However, there are some basic rules that should be considered when you buy an airbrush together with some basic science. I'm a modeller! I use my airbrushes on a daily basis. I've tried most of the airbrushes out there and I would like to believe that I have a good understanding about the pitfalls and the pain when buying an airbrush. I have been there and done that. I spend a lot of time talking to modellers from various backgrounds and at different skill levels. As an authorised Grex dealer. I make no bones about the fact that the Grex TG is my preferred airbrush. When I came back to the modelling hobby I started with the typical cheap airbrushes in the "blue foam" box. I also bought a very cheap compressor which I returned within a week and exchanged it for a similar model which had a tank. After a lot of frustration, I very quickly moved on to buying an H & S Evolution and a high end Iwata dual piston compressor. Admittedly the compressor was a little bit of an overkill. After this came the Aztek A777 metal airbrush. If it was favoured by someone like Brett Green I couldn't go wrong. It was at this point that my airbrushing started to come close to what I was trying to achieve and what I saw others achieving in their models. There was nothing spectacular about the Aztek. What had changed was the fact that I'd gone from .2 mm needle to .3 mm needle unknowingly. Beginners struggle with the concepts of paint thickness as described in a lot of modelling articles. People talked about "thinning your paint until it has the same viscosity as skimmed milk". When you are at the workbench and pretty new to airbrushing the statement means nothing to most people. Getting good results with an airbrush requires three settings: paint, viscosity (paint thickness), needle size and PSI (compressor air pressure). The type of paint you use will also have a dramatic effect on the results that you achieve. Using a .3 mm needle does not mean that you cannot produce fine lines. One of the features I like about the Grex is that you can regulate the trigger travel and air flow to the point where you constantly get the finest of lines. A modelling friend says he can write a signature with these Grex. The reason that he can do this is that Grex has engineered their needle to work with model paints. It has a slightly design to it. I will come back to this. Illustrators and beauticians use inks or high gloss nail polish. Not model acrylics or enamels. Paint has a completely different viscosity and is thicker than ink. That is why people still struggle with high-end airbrushes from other manufacturers. Don't get me wrong, if I someone asked me what's the best airbrush to buy for illustration I would absolutely recommend that they consider the high-end Harder & Steenbeck CR plus or something similar from Iwata or any one of the leading brands. Having owned a H & S CR Plus one and it's an amazing airbrush. There is a BUT. When it came to modelling I didn't get the results that I wanted. The .2mm needle was too small and the .4mm needle to big. I found myself limited to the types of paint that I could use. These were mainly Mr Hobby and Tamiya. These paints worked well because by this stage I'd learned to thin the paint down to about 65/35 ratio mix of thinner (reducer) to paint. The moment I tried something like Lifecolor which has a very grainy and chalky consistency I found that my very expensive H & S began to splutter. It was not the airbrushes’ fault but it was the needle size. At this stage are still owned by Aztek and I found that I had no problems Lifecolor or Valljeo through it. I also found that I struggled to pre-shade. When doing something like a Spitfire with a lot of panel lines I found that my hand would cramp after a period of time. More importantly, most of my pre-shading disappeared once I started with my topcoats. The reason for this was that unless you use Mr hobby in an almost translucent (very thin) state and let it dry between coats, you will very quickly lose your pre-shading lines. Having read a lot about the Grex pistol grip and watched a number of Youtube videos I hoped that it would at least solve the problem of hand cramping. I wanted a high-end airbrush as I felt that I'd outgrown the Aztek and I was disappointed that I was not getting the results that I wanted with the H&S. The moment that I started using the Grex TG .3mm I felt that I was now using an airbrush designed for modellers. People complain that they tried an airbrush at a modelling show and that it performs completely differently when they get home. Why? The first question is “did you actually try the airbrush with the paint that you intend using at home? The answer is usually “No I sprayed whatever was available at the show”. Model paint is expensive and generally people demonstrating airbrushes at shows use food colouring or a very thinned ink. This is not to try and trick you it is simply economics. Beauticians who use airbrushes to perform nail art will also prefer the .2mm needle because they are using gloss pigments (nail polish) which again flow more easily through the airbrush than do the flat military colours that we as hobbyists generally use. It’s important for model builders to understand that most high quality airbrushes are engineered with inks and gloss pigments in mind and not the flat paint qualities that model builders use on a regular basis. Let’s pause a moment Flat or Matt colors use in military modelling lacks shine (gloss) high gloss paint finishes reflect light and that is not something that is desirable when try to hide from an enemy. In fact for most military modellers they use a clear flat coat as the last sealing coat to get an even flatter finish. So what makes an acrylic paint Flat? The coarse molecule of the paint is what gives it a flat look and consequently increases the viscosity and this presents further inherent challenges of the paint flowing through the airbrush as compared to gloss paints and inks. While it’s possible to utilize the .2mm needle and nozzle combination for model building it does have limitations that could become challenging to the novice airbrush user. To begin with, most hobby paints, whether they are enamels or acrylics, require some amount of thinning to work in an airbrush. The range of proper thinning is very narrow when using a .2mm needle. If the paint is under thinned, then the paint will tend to spatter rather than provide a smooth flow of paint when attempting fine line work. If the paint is thinned too much then the paint ceases to perform as it should. It could become translucent when it should be opaque. The paint may not bond with the surface of the model properly either and easily buff or chafe off. Masking over it may also cause the paint to lift off the model as well. If you prefer to use acrylic paints specifically more problems could occur. For example, tip dry is a constant problem for most water-based acrylics. The smaller needle size will likely exacerbate the problem more. Also in regard to acrylics, even if the paint is thinned correctly, there is the possibility of an unusually large particulate of pigment in the matrix if the paint that can cause clogging issues as well. Going from a .2mm needle to a .3mm needle may sound like semantics but trust me, it does make a difference and will reduce or eliminate these problems. So you may ask, how does the .3mm needle still provide a fine line quality yet be a bigger needle size? As I mentioned above, the Grex answer to that is in the taper of the needle itself. Many of Grex’s competitors have what I call a compound taper to their needles. That is to say the needle tapers for a bit then it has a more extreme taper to the point of the needle. This can be seen if the needle is held against a white background showing the profile of the needle. While this type of engineering creates strength in the needle it compromises performance when it comes to detail work. If you look at a Grex needle it has one extreme taper that is consistent from tip to the full diameter of the needle width. Grex Airbrush needles are made of stainless steel to maintain integrity. However even with a strong metal such as stainless steel we recognize the needle can still be damaged. With that said Grex do no not charge an arm and a leg for a replacement needle to the consumer. Dealers offer replacement needles for around £10.00 or $12.00 give or take a few pence/cents. As such with the .3mm needle in conjunction with our fluid nozzle engineering a fine line capability is easily obtained with less precise thinning of the paint. Practice and knowing the qualities of your preferred brand of paint are still necessary however the likelihood of success is much greater. With regard to water-based paints, tip dry is still an inherent issue but at a reduced level. With all that has been said, I can say with confidence to the novice airbrush user the .3mm needle is a much preferred needle size to that of the .2mm needle. My suggestion to the consumer is to start off with an airbrush with the .3mm needle in it. If at some point with experience they wish to change the needle size they may do so. Grex Airbrush does provide TK-2, TK-3 & TK-5 nozzle kits, which are comprised of three components, the needle, fluid nozzle and nozzle cap, which are matched for the best performance possible. The TK kits are compatible with Grex Tritium TG and TS airbrushes as well as our new Genesis XGi and XSi airbrushes. The suffix number denotes the needle size in the kit, .2mm, .3mm or .5mm. Should the airbrush user wish to go down in needle size or go to a larger needle size for larger projects they have the capacity to do so. These kits retail for around £27.00 or $34.00. Grex offers the pistol grip style (TG Range) or the conventional airbrush with and ergonomic moulded cover that can be removed (XGi Range) both in a gravity feed or a side suction cup feed. The added bonus is of course the ability to use a Fan Cap for those really big projects, but that’s the subject of another aticle. Lastly, the TG annexe XGi range use a combined double action method for their trigger. The more you pull back and the press/depress the trigger means that you get more area and paint. I found that this allows me super fine control. Been able to regulate the travel in the air with the adjustment knob When people ask me if Grex provide a start to get the answer is yes, if I start to kit you mean everything to get you started - the airbrush, the compressor a DVD, the hose a variety of cups and a sample bottle of paint. If I start to get you mean cheap then the answer is ‘no’. There's an old saying buy cheap by twice. I spent a lot of time talking about needle size and I'm grateful to Bryant Dunbar for sharing his time and knowledge and for allowing me to use portions of his article. Sean Middleton October 2016
  12. Hi All, I've taken the plunge and have ordered an Airbrush and Compressor. I now have to decide what paint to use while I'm learning to use this new tool. I'd prefer to stick with a single brand to avoid any potential compatibility issues between paints, thinners and cleaners. I'd also prefer a brand that's reasonably readily available in Europe. I'll be spraying in a shed, rather than in the house, and have an extractor so strong smells aren't necessarily a deal breaker. Ease of use for a beginner and ease of clean up are high on my priority list. So what's your recommendation for primers, clear coats and colours? Is Vallejo a solid choice or should I be looking elsewhere?
  13. I am hoping this will prove to be the correct place to post this question: In a short while I will be off on holiday on my canal boat, I am signed-up for a GB so will be making an aircraft model during 'down time'. Space is a premium and I will be taking my spray booth but my compressor might be too much gear! I have used can propellant back in the day (small compressors used to be quite expensive back then) so I am reasonably aware of their shortcomings. Has anybody tried to fit a pressure regulator, as used on a compressor, to a propellant can? Would it work to supply the 15psi I tend to use, would it help to reduce the likely hood of icing-up as the airbrush demands would be less, would it cause the propellant to last longer by reducing waste? Hmmmm rather more than one question methinks! Thank you and I look forward to some constructive advise (in the meantime I will see if I can cobble together a suitable mechanism and give it a go.)
  14. I was wondering if it was possiabe to use a genuine badger paint head and needle in a copy airbrush that is on sale on ebay. This also goes for all the different makes that are copied I have a badger 150 with 2 heads I was just wondering if it was worth buying one of the copies to use the body to save the messing about of head changing. Rodders
  15. Hey, I have been modelling for about 7 years now, but have never looked into getting an airbrush. I have quite a few large, American WWII bombers (B-29, B-17 and B-25) which all have a bare metal finish, so I need something to get a smooth paint finish which can cover a wide area in a relatively short amount of time. I am also planning on buying an A-10, AC-130, B-36 and a B-52 (you see the theme running ) I looked online this morning and saw that the best airbrush for beginners would be a Single-Action, Gravity-Fed, Internally-Mixed one. Now, all I need help on is deciding what nozzle size and needle is best for a large area (I don't really need a high precision one I don't think). I also need to know what air compressor and cleaning kit would be best. My budget is £50 (I know its low, but I'm broke and I don't even know if I'll be good with an airbrush xD), and it would be nice if the airbrush came in a set with a compressor and cleaning kit. I also saw both the Revell and Humbrol airbrush sets (Humbrol also do a canned air 'power-pack'), with Revell having an airbrush and a spray gun (what is the difference?). These look quite cheap, so I was wondering about any of you guys' views on them. Thanks ) P.S. I use both enamel and acrylic paints. I guess I need to thin them for airbrushing, so what should I use as a thinner. I'm guessing water for acrylic, then would it be just white spirit or turp for enamel?
  16. Hi guys i bave recently got into airbrushing so i am getting to grips with priming my models i was just wondering do i need to thin the vallejo primer or should i spray from the bottle ? and if so what PSI should i be spraying ? thanks brandon
  17. Hi all, just a quck question: I'm wondering how to get a nice dusty finish (such as on MickE's beautiful Wellington http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235001041-148-wellington-1c/?hl=wellington )without using pigments, but buying online is my only option, and I can't find any MiG pigments(I can also take a cheaper brand of pigment, if any) under AUD$15 ( £8) as the nearest model shop is more than 1500km (950mi) away; not really an option! I know you can also airbrush a dusty-looking covering on, but I would need some tips on this before starting. Any answers welcome!!
  18. A rather dramatic name for a new airbrush from Meng, who seem to be expanding into the modelling tools and and consumables sector of our hobby with a co-branded paint system link-up with AK Interactive, and now this rather neat looking airbrush. No additional info as yet, but it looks like it'll do the job nicely
  19. I have just finished my latest build (none since last year due to moving house) and my first Eduard build and it was great! I am by no means great at building but really enjoy it so I'm happy Painted with an airbrush with Tamiya acrylics, no weathering (as yet!) and decals/PE eduards own.
  20. I have had a cheap and cheerful airbrush compressor (AS186) for four years. It has served me fine in all that time but over the past few weeks the air supply to the airbrush has sometimes been hit or miss. Last night I was in the middle of spraying a second coat of grey on this VC10 when the air supply stopped completely although the compressor was chugging away normally: The first coat, as you can see, went on without a problem the night before. Having cleaned out the airbrush (H&S Evolution ALPlus) thoroughly twice and still no joy, I tried using my H&S Ultra. Once again no joy. So, I packed it in for the night and opened up the compressor this afternoon. I took off the compressor end plates and the innards were fine. However, when the heat sink was removed to check the seals, I discovered that large bits of plastic had broken off the plastic lining in the heat sink: Most probably, one of these fairly large pieces of plastic had almost completely blocked the hole to the air tube that goes down to the air tank. I have removed the remains of the lining, cleaned up the heat sink and ordered new seals: I was wondering, if anybody knows if you can get replacement linings or if not, would there will be permanent damage to the heat sink if I operate the compressor without the lining? When fixed, this compressor will be placed in reserve as I have ordered another one just like it. Obviously, a cheap and cheerful compressor but seeing as it has worked out at about 25p a week for the past four years, it has proved to be good value! Anyway, funds are a bit tight at the moment as I am off on holiday in a few weeks so I can't buy a more sophisticated one - yet! Dave
  21. NOTICE: On day 6 it is clear that I have either damaged the airbrush, or, the airbrush was perhaps not that good in the first place. I get near instant clogging and I see the paint flow being inconsistent as I gradually try increase the paint flow with the lever, if I screw on the nozzle cap too much. Apparently there is a sweet spot, that makes the paint flow seemingly perfect, with a nice spray, with no clogging. So I can still use this airbrush I think, until I try out some spare parts or buy a new one. Edit: Warning: Since I started a few days ago, I might have learned a few more things about my airbrush, so take what I write with a grain of salt so to speak, or rather, take into consideration that what I write in each post might in worst case be wrong. Day 0 I have bought a new air compressor with a 4L tank, but the connecting part between the compressor and the airbrush is not airtight. No point trying out airbrushing this way. Day 1 Finally, today I managed to acquire some rubber O-rings, and I used 3-4 of them to stop the leaking connection between my new and expensive 4L compressor (Faller Air Boss/Sil-Air 15D variant?) and my el cheapo airbrush (BD-130). The connector that came with the airbrush doesn't fit my compressor (both appear to be 1/4" connections though), I can screw it on a little, but don't dare tighten it, putting in O-rings fixed the leakage. Temp = 22 deg C Rel. Humidity = 25-40% (true value unknown, I have apparently two crappy hygrometers, one digital and one analogue, each in different rooms) Compressor PSI set to eh 20+ when putting on primer, ca 30 psi when putting on color. After quite some time of fun airbrushing regular Vallejo color, having started with mucho clogging when trying out the Vallejo Gray Primer on a non painted model for practise, I came to realize that I had the wrong needle in the airbrush. Before I started airbrushing, I had removed the 0.3 or maybe a 0.35 nozzle from the airbrush and put on the optional 0.5 nozzle, but aha I forgot to switch out the needle for a 0.5 one. Even with the nozzle cap on, the needle stuck outside the cap, something I thought looked rather odd, but I didn't know any better. So I ended up airbrushing with a 0.5 nozzle, together with a 0.3 or perhaps a 0.35 needle. I had managed to paint some Vallejo Dark Sea Gray onto a lighter gray colored plastic model (previous enamel paint), and I thought the end result was really nice. I am looking forward to try out airbrushing Tamiya X-22 Clear coat over it, to see if the surface becomes more smooth, or at least to see if I can get an even shine over the whole surface. Before doing a clear coat, I might as well try out some masking and put on some white invasion stripes for fun. I have no idea if the mucho clogging with the Vallejo gray primer was due to wrong needle, the airbrushing or if I should have mixed it with something. I think I added some Vallejo airbush thinner, but maybe it was too little. As I started airbrushing a submarine stand I had lying around, with primer, it became clear that I wouldn't be able to finish it in anything resembling normal time, because of the clogging. Hopefully, now that I have fixed my "wrong needle" issue, I hope I get to see a different result tomorrow. Things I did, that I perhaps shouldn't have: At the end, I thought, why not add some thinner to the medium sized flash of Vallejo Gray Primer, so I poured some of that into it. I also added a ball bearing, and so I had put that into the flask, no idea if that really helps with this kind of paint. I think I managed to get to airbrush the wing of an airplane model properly. I had the airbrush about 8cm from the model. I guess I thought that 20+ psi was ok, but with the trouble I had with the primer, I tried upping the psi towards 30 for airbrushing the color afterwards. I'll go back to 20'ish the next time. Noteworthy things: - Seems I should buy some cheap non Vallejo airbrush cleaner somewhere, because I used a lot on my first airbrush session. I cleaned the airbrush maybe four times, and felt comfortable doing it. - When I fill some airbrush cleaning liquid into the airbrush and adjust the paint flow ratio towards maximum, I see a nice spray, maybe 4 cm in diameter at 10cm distance (roughly). - I find it a little difficult judging how much paint is sprayed on a surface, if the surface already has some paint on it. - The best indication of flow, seem to when I spray cleaning liquid onto my hand (wearing a non-latex glove/100% "nitril"). - I realized I should improve the lighting a little. Best to have good lighting conditions, otherwise it is difficult to see how the spray is applied on the surface of the model. - I did try out airbrushing bare plastic, and it went well. If using the gray primer doesn't improve, I am tempted to simply airbrush paint without a layer of primer. No idea if the paint might chip off that way. I feel confident that I can airbrush a project soon, if I do a little planning to avoid making known mistakes.
  22. I own a few airbrushes, three or four chinese ones, (used for primer coverage and clearcoats) I use harder stenbecks Ultra with .2 kit and Infinity CRPlus with .4 kit. Then a Paasche Hsr for primer detailing. The ultra is a good airbrush, but suffers one misfortune, the needle tip and cap design. The CR plus and infinity range come with a different cap and push on tip cover, but nearly all use the same needle tip. This is a pinch tip design, which i think is totally imperative when spraying acrylics. Dry tips easily fixed! But the Ultra range come with a solid cap/cover design which is very difficult to backflow and nearly impossible to quickly clean tip dry problems. So here is the fix. Whichever needle size you have (.2 or .4) all you need is the CRPlus or infinity cap and push on pimch type cover. They fit perfectly, and presto! A much more user friendly pinch tip on the Ultra. Surprising that Harder Steenbeck dont list it as an option!!
  23. Hi folks, Wondered if I could ask for some advice. I only do minimal amounts of spraying in a session and I only use acrylic based paints. Should I always be using a mask when doing this and if so can anyone recommend what would be my best option that isn't going to cost the earth Many thanks Kris
  24. Hi All I'm looking for some advice on spraying Xtracrylix gloss. I'm using an Iwata airbrush with a 0.3 set up at around 15psi. I mixed the gloss with about 50% Xtracrylix thinner mixed in the cup. The gloss seemed to go on well enough but has has a rough, pebbly finish. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong & also what can I do to repair the mess I've made? Thanks
  25. Hi all, Recently got my first airbrush in an attempt to move into the future a bit, was intending to spray primarily tamiya acrylics but also potentially others such as xtracrylic, was looking for: How should I thin the tamiya paints? How should I thin any other acrylics? How should I clean the airbrush? Do you have to strip it down? Does Vallejo cleaner work on tamiya paints? Cheers!
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