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Found 14 results

  1. In 2019 ICM is to release a new tool family of A/-B-26B/C Invader kits: - ref. 48281 - Douglas B-26B-50 Invader, Korean War American Bomber - release expected in Q3 2019 Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICM48281 - ref. 48282 - Douglas A-26B-15 Invader - release expected in Q4 2019 Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICM48282 Dedicated decals by ICM: - ref. D48001 - Douglas A-26B/C Invader (WWII) - release expected in Q3 2019 Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICMD48001 - ref. D48002 - Douglas B-26B/C Invader (Korean War) - release expected in Q4 2019 Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICMD48002 V.P.
  2. Hi, Now with the F4U-4 is all but finished, its time to continue with my 'build two at any give time - if you want a chance in reducing the constantly growing stash' policy. This time I selected to tackle my first bomber / 2 engine plane. This build will be of a Revell A-26B I picked on eBay in a bag - literally in a bag. Some of the clear parts may indicate I have parts from two models. The bag did contain two copies of Instructions. I've put the bag in an old D-link modem box Decal sheet looks too yellow for comfort I may be looking for a decal sheet - any recommendation are welcomed. When I washed the parts and moved them to a box more easily accommodated on the bench - I've heard a small part falling - and the carpet monster got it Loosing a part even before I started - that's a first one.
  3. B-26B-50 Invader (48281) 1:48 ICM via Hannants The good old B-26 Marau… no, wait. The A-26 Invader? Hang on, erm... B-26 Invader. That's it, as long as it's after 1948 as that's when it was re-designated as the B-26 by the US Air Force to confuse us, and later on back to the A-26 just to complete my befuddlement. It was developed a little after the Marauder and despite using the same engines it was designed totally separately from its tubular colleague. It was designed to replace the A-20 Havoc, but it was initially less than popular in the Pacific theatre where its poor cockpit visibility due to the canopy and engine position rendered it unloved by the first users. It was more popular in the European theatre and was accepted as replacement for the Havoc fairly quickly. Two types were designed, The C with a glass bomber nose and the B with a full metal nose filled with either 6 or 8 .50cal machine guns, which coupled with the three in each wing gave it quite a punch, deserving of the Strafer title. It also had a pair of turrets on the fuselage mid-upper and dorsal positions, which were both operated by a single gunner using a complex remote mechanism that flipped between the upper and lower turrets depending on where the gunner was looking through his binocular sights. This trained the guns accordingly and also calculated the correct offset for parallax and lead, but was very complex and caused some delays to it entering service, and even more issues with maintenance in the field. After the war it served in Korea, early Vietnam engagements and other conflicts, ending its days in US service with the Air National Guard in the early 70s. It continued in civilian service as a fire bomber and in other roles, such as actor in the film Always with Richard Dreyfuss playing its brave but ill-fated pilot. The Kit This is a brand new tooling from ICM and a lot of folks have been waiting (im)patiently for it for a while now, hoping for something to replace the old Revell Monogram kit of yore. Here it is! It's the Korean War variant with the Strafer nose that we're getting first, with other options coming in due course. It arrives in the familiar top opening box with a captive inner lid on the lower tray, and inside are eight sprues in grey styrene, one in clear, a decal sheet and the instruction booklet. A quick look over the sprues reveals that panel lines are very crisp, narrow and restrained, the surface is matt and very neat-looking, with plenty of engraved and raised details on the parts, plus subtly indented flying surfaces mimicking their fabric covering. You might also notice that there are parts for an open or closed canopy, the open one having the flat top surface, while the closed canopy has the slightly blown roof that was used after 1944 to improve visibility. That might give you some latitude in case you can't wait to build a WWII aircraft. Construction begins with the cockpit, creating the pilot's seat, instrument panel (with instrument decals) with built-in door to the nose, centre console with throttle quadrant before adding those and the single control column to the floor. The aft compartment is built up around the front wing spar with a set of radio gear hanging from a pair of risers, then a pair of bombs on their racks, the reason for which will become clear in a moment. The port fuselage half is detailed with some side console and panel parts and then has the bomb racks, nose gear bay sides, forward spar with radio gear, rear spar in the centre of the bomb bay, sloped aft bulkhead and another frame behind that, followed by the cockpit floor, so you'll have to do some detail painting as you go. After this the starboard fuselage side is prepped, and here's where a little cautionary note about sink-marks on the exterior of my sample needs making. The right side of the cockpit and bomb bay with its detailed ribbing has caused the shallowest of sink-marks on the exterior, which would be best dealt with using a little filler before you get busy building. You could have dismissed it as oil-canning of the skin if it were consistent and on both sides, but as it isn't you'll need to decide whether you're going to fix it. Happily the majority of it is in areas that are open enough to allow easy sanding back of filler, so it shouldn't slow you down very much. I'll be using some Tamiya Basic on mine in due course and have no doubt it will be just fine. A 0.8mm hole is drilled in the section behind the canopy and the two remaining bomb racks are added inside along with an internal detail panel, nose gear bay side, and a hatch that does a credible impression of a toilet lid. With that and a quantity of detail painting you can then slide the starboard fuselage over the two spars, and it would be a good idea when fitting those spar parts to let them set up with the starboard fuselage taped in place to ensure they make the correct angle when they're set in place permanently. The instructions then have you building up the tail feathers, with the elevators having separate single-part flying surfaces, plus a two piece rudder to attach to the moulded-in tail fin. The gun-nose is appropriate for this model, but as it's a modular part that in real-world situations could be swapped for the glazed-nose in a couple of hours, you can bet your boots these parts will be joined by some additional glazing in a later boxing. The fixed lower and rear section of the nose are built up out of three parts, making space for the 40g of nose weight you are encouraged to fit before you add the single cowling panel that covers the gun bay, with a pair of four barrel gun-inserts added through the holes to depict the .50cals. You'll need to drill out the muzzles or take the lazy way out and get a set of Master barrels, such as the P-47 set until they get their own specific set. The nose section is a straight-forward butt joint to the fuselage, with a small half-moon cut-out that should help align it. The wings are next, and the lower parts have a smattering of flashed-over holes ready to drill out for bombs, gun-pods or drop tanks, plus three cartridge ejection chutes to be cut out for the wing mounted .50cals. The faces of the in-line radiator baths are added to the lower wings and then it's already time to bring the halves together. You'll notice that there are fairings and a hump in the upper wing where the engine nacelles will be, and these are separate assemblies to be built up later. First, the separate two-section flaps (oddly with no deployed option), and the ailerons are prepared and added to the trailing edge of the wings, the latter being of one piece each and slotting into wing via two tabs. The tip lights and underwing landing lights are added from clear parts, and a small insert is glued into the wing that includes three more barrel stubs each and will again need drilling out. At this stage the instructions have you sliding the wings onto the spars and gluing them in place. Whether you'd rather wait until you've added the engine nacelles though is entirely up to you though. There are of course two engine nacelles and these build up pretty much identically apart from their outer skins, which are handed to fit their respective fairings as you'd expect. They are split vertically, and each half has internal structure moulded-in, with bulkheads added fore and aft of the gear bays, coupled with bay lip inserts that bulk out the edges and also hold captive their bay door. This may require some clever masking and a little care during handling, but it shouldn't hold you back too much, as the hinge-points are relatively robust. The two halves are joined together, the prominent intake on the top of the nacelle is made up from two parts, then is added to the nacelle front which is in turn glued to the rest of the nacelle, with the completed assemblies attached to the wings from the underside, as yet without their engine cowlings or props. The engines are added later in the build, and the Twin Wasps are depicted in their entirety with both banks of pistons, push-rods, ancillaries and reduction housing at the front, plus the collector ring and exhausts at the rear, the latter made up from eight parts each. So that they are fitted correctly and mesh properly with the nacelles, they are attached using a jig that is discarded later, so remember not to glue it in! Again the engines are identical and interchangeable with each other, and they fit to the nacelles with a teardrop-shaped tab, after which the engine cowling is slotted over them. The cooling flaps are last to be added in four sets around the rear of the cowling. The top of the fuselage is still open at this point, as it has an insert with the top turret to fit in place, with another for the dorsal turret fitted later on. The remote turrets are both made up together with the ability for the twin .50cals to be left movable if you wish. The top turret has its mechanism and ring made up first, with the two halves brought together on either side of the insert before being glued into the fuselage closing up that area. Then the gunner's compartment with simple seat and periscope is made up and installed under the glazing that sits behind the top turret. Flipping the model over, the lower turret is added to the insert and glued in place too. Another clear light is added to the very rear of the fuselage, and attention turns to the landing gear, which is of the tricycle variety as became the fashion in late war. Each of the three tyres are made from two halves with separate hubs applied from either side, then hung on their respective legs, which have retraction jacks and scissor links added along the way. Happily these can be fitted late in the build, so the open bays can be masked quicker than if they were present. Speaking of bays, you can depict the bomb bay open or close by using either a one piece door for closed, or two separate doors with internal detail for open. This is nice to see, as it's always a little tricky to join two doors and get them aligned with the fuselage so there's minimal join-lines. The main airframe is ostensibly complete save for some antennae and the props, and if you've been sparing with the glue when assembling the engines, the latter should still spin once complete. Your final choice is bombs, tanks or gun-packs hung under the wings. The bombs are made up from two halves each with a spinner insert in the rear and their attachment points moulded into the port side, the gun-packs have a handed three part pod that fits around the central gun-tray, and the drop tanks are simple two-part assemblies with their attachment points moulded into the port side again. They are all mounted on pegs, and fit into their holes that you remembered to drill in the wings before you closed them up, didn't you? Markings In this initial boxing there are three options included on the decal sheet, one in bare metal, the other two in olive drab, one of which has a bare metal leading-edge panel to the tail and an all-over olive drab finish. From the box you can build one of the following: B-26B-30-DL 8th BS, 3rd BG, Iwakuni AB, Japan, Spring 1951 B-26B-56-DL 13th BS, 3rd BG, Iwakuni AB, Japan, August 1950 B-26B-61-DL 730th BS, Miho AB, Japan, Autumn 1950 The decals are printed anonymously, although they look like DecoGraph's output to my eye. They have good registration, colour density and sharpness, and include a number of stencils that are legible with the right eyeware. If you forgot to ream out those cartridge chutes in the wing before you closed them up, some kind soul has added two decals with three black rectangles to help you out. Conclusion This model should make a fair few people happy, and consign a lot of old Monogram kits to deep stash or eBay as a result. Detail is excellent and made so much nicer by the matt surface, and there's a fair proportion of the interior included for what is bound to be a popular kit. Smear a little filler into those light sink-marks before you get started, and no-one will know they're there. Keep 'em coming ICM! Very highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Bobcat Hobby Model Kits has just announced a new tool 1/48th Douglas A-26K "Nimrod" Counter Invader kit - ref. Source: https://twitter.com/bobcat_model/status/1083588949254098944 A direct competitor for the future ICM's Douglas A/B-26 Invader kits - link V.P.
  5. HobbyBoss is working on a 1/32nd Douglas A/B-26 Invader family Sources: https://www.facebook.com/groups/767571186705677/permalink/2111108359018613/ https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/81228-132-douglas-a-26-invader-from-trumpeterhobbyboss/ V.P.
  6. I'm looking for help from Gashopon fans - is there any way of obtaining one particular example? A website used for trading/selling, perhaps? Alternatively, does anyone know if Platz intend to follow up their twin boxing of two USAF A-26Cs with an example in French markings? (As available from F-Toys but only in a randomly-chosen set of 10, with no guarantees.) Or as another alternative, a 1/144 transfers set of French A-26s? Or indeed any other than the ones given by Platz?
  7. Hi all - yet again! Still on the scrounge for the support of the wise collective! Does anyone know this badge? It is on a TB-26 and possible it is of USAF origin. Any thoughts? Thanks so much! Martin
  8. Hi all you wise ones! Continuing my them of A-26 related questions. I'd appreciate your views on what the two orange colours are on this machine. I guess the fuselage is Fluorescent Orange? Thanks in advance. Martin PS: I'm hoping this is my last on the subject!
  9. A 1/32nd Douglas A-26 Invader in view (by HpH?) ?? Source Scale Aviation Modeller International: https://www.facebook.com/ScaleAviation/photos/a.1799764573582175.1073741832.1736227789935854/2353552251536735/?type=3&theater To be followed. V.P.
  10. I recently got some very kind replies to my request for information on the undersurface of a USAAF B-25J in the Mediterranean Theatre. I had thought of also doing the 1/72 Italeri kit of the Douglas A-26B in service in the Italian theatre as a companion to my MTO Hasegawa B-25J. The Italeri instructions offered decals for (amongst others) a Douglas A-26B, 44-34486, of the 47th Bomb Group in Italy in 1945. It had a bold red/range tail with the numbers '58' superimposed in black and yellow wingtips. The problem is that the Osprey book on the A-26 ('A-26 Units of World War 2') says that the same aircraft, 44-34486, with the same bold red/range tail (and '58') was an aircraft of the 69th Reconnaissance Group in France in 1945. The site Wings Pallette does likewise: http://wp.scn.ru/en/ww2/a/294/3/0#4 I have searched the internet and can't find any evidence to support either view - that is that the aircraft served with the 47th Bomb Group or the 69th Reconnaissance Group. Both Groups apparently used the A-26 at the end of the war though I can't find any photos of the A-26 with the 69th Rec Group. Photos of various A-26s with the 47th Bomb Group are available but although these show that the aircraft carried a number on the tail, the number is smaller than that shown in the Italeri kit and there seems to be no sign of that red/orange stripe on the tail. Any comments? Thoughts? My gut instinct is that the 47th Bomb Group seems more likely. As I understand the USAAF followed RAF practice in NW Europe, using code letters on the fuselage whereas numbers on the tail and fuselage were used by USAAF Groups in Italy. If I can't get this confirmed either way I may wait for the new Kitsworld decals for the A-26 - they appear to offer markings for aircraft in NW Europe rather than Italy but they do look very nice. Regards Hugh
  11. Douglas A-26 Invader. "Hard to Get" is an A-26 Serial Number 44-35710 displayed at The Cavanaugh Flight Museum, Addison, Texas. This is an airworthy aircraft. Pics thanks to GeorgeUSA.
  12. After its 1/48th H-75 Mohawk and F-86K ( http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/55146-148th-f-86k-sabre-dog-by-musthave-available/?hl=musthave ) kits, the French company MustHave is to release a brand new tool (and not a Revellogram reboxing!) 1/48th Douglas A-26B Invader kit. Box art V.P.
  13. Hi everyone, here are some shots from the excellent Lyon Air Museum in Orange County. It's a great collection of classic aircraft, military vehicles and classic cars, and they all work! More pics here: http://www.hanger51.org/aircraft-museums/us-museums-collections/lyon-air-museum-ca/ B-17G Flying Fortress by tony_inkster, on Flickr B-25J Mitchell by tony_inkster, on Flickr B-17G Flying Fortress by tony_inkster, on Flickr A-26B Invader by tony_inkster, on Flickr DC-3 Dakota by tony_inkster, on Flickr Cessna O-1E by tony_inkster, on Flickr A-26B Invader by tony_inkster, on Flickr
  14. Started life as a prebuilt half plastic, half metal display model. I removed the nose guns and turrets, filled in those areas and sanded down the rear dorsal glazing. I also detailed and painted the cockpit but not a lot can be seen through the canopy, at least I know it's there. Finished in the fictional colours and markings of "East Coast Fire Dogs". (My first home printed decals) I checked the FAA website and N-426FD is not currently registered, 426 (A26) FD (Fire Dogs). Never let it be said that I don't go a bit daft with these ideas
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