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  1. Hallo https://www.asisbiz.com/il2/Bf-109G/JG77-MTO/pages/Messerschmitt-Bf-109G2R3Trop-1.JG77-White-3-Horst-Schlick-WNr-10533-abandoned-Bir-el-Abd-AF-4th-Nov-1942-02.html https://www.asisbiz.com/il2/Bf-109G/JG77-MTO/pages/Messerschmitt-Bf-109G2R3Trop-1.JG77-White-3-Horst-Schlick-WNr-10533-abandoned-Bir-el-Abd-AF-4th-Nov-1942-01.html https://www.asisbiz.com/il2/Bf-109G/JG77-MTO/pages/Messerschmitt-Bf-109G2R3Trop-1.JG77-White-3-Horst-Schlick-WNr-10533-abandoned-Bir-el-Abd-AF-4th-Nov-1942-0A.html This build went straight forward actually. The issues in the kit, now well noticed, are: The details of the cockpit as oxygen-regulator is not correct. The piping for this also not. I tried to make it better, but far from exact. Next time it will be better. The stick is too big. I used resin from Quickboost. The details came from Quintas and I omitted mostly Eduard etched parts. The airframe has a weird flaw. Underside of the wing, central position. Here you find a rib. This rib, which comes from the molded part, is far offset. Not parallel, oblique. If you would correct it, your wing is one side 2mm to big, on the other side too short. This matter should look like this, but far away! Other shortcomings are the one sided perfect fitting starbord, the port side just somehow. This matters on the gear legs, the cooler flaps at the trailing edge, the elevator and so on. I can sum up, that the mold is asymmetric! Well so far. Have a look. The model represents the aircraft of pilot Horst Schlick in Africa 1942. Happy modelling
  2. Hi guys, my name is Caio and I'm new to this forum. I live in Brazil and modelling tends to be quite expensive here since model kits are heavily taxed because God knows why... but I'm going to live for 2 months traveling through Europe at the end of the year and I plan on spending around 80 euros on 10 or so model kits to bring home, what I want from you guys are suggestions, mainly 1/72 ww2 aircraft, any hidden gems that seem to be harder to find to be on the lookout. I have no mid or heavy bombers on my stash so there's that. Any suggestions? This topic may help other users to discover new stuff, so be pretty free on general suggestions, im not going to limit you guys to models I don't already have for that matter. I know that a heinkel 111e from Roden is granted.
  3. Hallo This model got also a brasin engine & cockpit. Since it is my second model in line with the same equipment it was easier. I used Montex masks and HGW wet transfers. The aircraft represents an aircraft of https://www.asisbiz.com/il2/Bf-109G/JG51/pages/Messerschmitt-Bf-109G6R6-Erla-8.JG51-Black-2-unknown-pilot-0A.html Now take a look on the model:
  4. The red gear was for GM or MW boost? Was the red gear a standard for this issue or just a maybe ? Thank you Happy modelling
  5. Hallo This is my finished Bf-109 G-6 with WGr.21. The kit is Eduard in the special scale of 1/43. Cockpit, engine, weapons and wheels are Brasin from Eduard. I had no decals for an aircraft with this weapons. So I decided to create an model for the Unknown Pilot. The national insignia are all sprayed with Montex masks. The stencils are from HGW wet transfers. Here I did no gloss varnish. I worked only with the setting fluid from Microscale. My WIP: Oh to say: Since I have seen so many photos, I never have seen black panel lines. Therefore I did not do it either! https://www.asisbiz.com/Bf-109G.html So have a look and enjoy. To add: The book you see is my most important book when working on a 109. So I can tell you, you see an aircraft from the Werknummer block of 167.000. The compressed air hatch for the Mk 108 is there, but closed and not used. Happy modelling
  6. Hallo This is now a special build. Scale approx. 1/43 as Eduard made some years ago a special kit, some say a flaw. A kit full of flaws, I was told. I think it is worth to build.....? Anyway I bought full of joy some 4 overtree kits. With Brasin sets too. I thought to throw them away. Brasin Engine, cockpit, weapons,gear.... But this would be a waste of money. Now I will build them all 4 kits. I start with a G-6. The painting will be with some Montex masks I have already here. Not sure yet, which one. To make things really heavy, with Brasin cockpit and engine. Weapons also with Brasin set. Maybe rocket launcher underwing. As I said, all of them is home. I will do my best, to learn how to install properly the Brasin sets. I started yesterday. Today after some hiking I did also some hours working on this matter. See what it is! Happy modelling
  7. Hallo From the website of JG 300 I found a photo link: https://www.flickr.com/photos/8270787@N07/albums/72157605269786717/page1 There are many pages. Some pics are well known. Just some! Happy modelling
  8. 1/72 A Model IAR 80c. Another model that resisted completion, mainly due to fit issues again. It's getting to sound a lot like a bad workman blaming his tools, as I ought to be big enough, old enough and ugly enough to get over mere bagatelles such as the canopy being too big for the fuselage, the wing sections warping so that there was a gap the width of the mersey tunnel between top and bottom leading edge, the butt joint tailplanes were no help at all and the rear of the fuselage still gives me the shivers thinking how lucky I was it isn't a resin kit the amount of sanding I had to do to get a massive step in the wing to rear fuselage reduced.. But I persevered, and eventually wrestled into some sort of shape a model that looked to me bore a passing resemblance to the box art. Actually, I am a little tired of these short run, awkward fitting models, and yearn for an Airfix, Revell, Eduard or Tamiya kit to make, which is why I am going for the Smer Su-25 Frogfoot in Ukrainian livery next. On to the IAR 80. I didn't know until a couple of years ago that Rumania had an aviation business, let alone it produced what looks like a well designed efficient fighter, the IAR 80. When I discovered that, I thought let's get one, and on impulse picked up this 1/72 Amodel kit from Hannants. I thought apart from the aerial being broken in half, the somewhat dodgy colour choices ( Humbrol dark brown and Mr Hobby IJA dark green) for the paintwork, a couple of seams that refused to fill and sand away, and the mistake with the undercarriage, given the fit issues and the truly awful instructions, it doesn't look too bad. The pitot was painted by masking the white for red stripes, the canopy was masked pretty well, though spoilt a bit by some glue fogging that crept in at the front when I put the aerial in the hole I'd drilled in the canopy. Gun barrels by Albion hobby, as was the pitot. Canopy masks from Yahu, as were the seatbelts, and the instrument panel. Which, you had to work out where the fuselage location for the IP was; I thought I had, but obviously didn't put enough glue there as the IP fell out. I used Mr Colour RLM 04 for the yellow bits, Windsor & Newton galleria gloss varnish to put the decals on, and Windsor & newton galleria satin finish for post decals. This wasn't a "Oh, just drop it in the bin" model, but a couple of times it came close. Several photos now follow of this fighter for your delectation.
  9. This build was a bit of a nightmare, due to me!!! I had looked at this kit and thought ' no, not for me' too big, not enough display space, then blow me I had bought the ICM 1/48 He111Z 'Zwilling' plus extras Eduard Big ED photoetch, Quickboost Exhausts and Brassin Wheels. The kit consists of two of ICM's He111H-6s plus extra sprues. You end up with a lot of spare parts!!!! Basically you build the two H-6s one less port and one less starboard wing, join them together with new mid wing section - easy??? I built the kit not following ICMs build instructions, big mistake. I hit loads of problems with the engine cowlings and nose transparencies! How much filler I needed to use was ridiculous but I guess it was my fault?? I had to modify the upper transparency as ICM supplied the H-6 type instead of the correct H-16/20 transparency. I soldiered on to the end, not that I'm happy with the result but judge for yourself!!!! The machine represented is Wk. Nr. 2699, LLG2, Eastern Front 1943. DIORAMA POSSIBLITIES!!!!!!!! Cheers Andy
  10. This is the ICM 1/48 Gotha Go242B-2 built oob with the addition of Eduards photoetch and Space 3D decal. The glider represented is from Schleppgruppe 4 1943. Cheers Andy
  11. A couple of Eduards 1/48 Fw190s almost oob just different schemes, [1] Fw190A-5/U8 Wk, Nr, 1478 SKG10 Deblin 1943 [2] Fw190F-8 9.SG77 Chrudim 1945 Cheers Andy
  12. Just a simple conversion of ICM's Ju88A-5 using Aims conversion set. The biggest problem with all of ICM's Ju88 family is the cockpit, it lacks an accurate cockpit floor! This is where the Aims conversion comes into play supplying an accurate cockpit floor, unfortunately because of ICMs error the seat mountings are far too tall for the corrected floor and require modification. The rest of the conversion is relatively easy just replacing wing tips, cowling faces and modifying exhausts. I also used Eduards 'Big Ed' photoetch, Brassin wheels and Aims corrected prop and spinner The machine represented is Wk. Nr. 4079 of 1./KG.54 Evreaux France 1940, decals used were also from Aims, Cheers Andy
  13. Have you ever wanted to make your own custom masks for your Luftwaffe aircraft, but your attempts ended up as utter failure/markings were too difficult to draw by hand? Well, don't dispair anymore! I found this link which allows you to download to your pc the exact letter/number font for Luftwaffe aircraft! Simply download the file, open the RAR and install and font, it'll install itself on the font list on Word. You have numbers, letters, and two types of Balkan Crosses! Once you open Word and select the font, "Blockschrift fur Flugzeug", you'll be able to print the desired codes, cut them and make your own masks. https://fonts2u.com/blockschrift-fr-flugzeuge.font
  14. Hallo The gap between flaps and slats on fighter a/c & bomber of early ww2 Luftwaffe aircraft, had this been RLM02 or any camo color or anything else? Request foto to be sure! Thank you all! Happy modelling
  15. Hello everybody, Before posting my latest 1:1200 battleship, the HMS Rodney, I present the three ships I built first, all in 2020: the German Bismarck, the British King George V, and the Japanese Yamato. While they might be too rusty, and King George V's color scheme is from pure Revell designer's fantasy (in the beginning I didn't question the properness of such plans) you can detect a slight increase in my modelling skills. In addition, the setting for taking the pictures isn't too atmospheric. However, these days I don't build them out of the box anymore, because my aspiration for accuracy and detail has grown. That's why it took me more than a year to complete the Rodney, which's pictures will follow soon... Cheers, Leo
  16. Dearest Brits and modellers, Let me present the result of my leisure hours from mid 2021 until early 2023: HMS Rodney in 1/1200. For more details about the building proces please check https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235125214-hms-rodney-11200-the-progress/ For now, let the music play (some imperial pathos might be accurate at this occasion: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2c5QHtgFxY) and the pictures speak (thanks to Felix Streuli for his great job presenting the model in the right light):
  17. Hello everybody, In this thread, I want to show you the HMS Rodney's development from a shapeways "fine detail plastic" 3D-print in 1/1200 into an even more detailed "pocket battleship" with self-built elements. Another challenge beside the refining were adaptions which had to be done to represent the ship in the conditions of May 27th 1941 when the famous battle against the German battleship Bismarck took place, because the original 3D-print shows the ship in its appearance in 1942/43. I was quite surprised that there is no assembly kit or plans / scheme / pictures on the net or in books showing the ships conditions on that decisive date! However, of greatest help for the research where the two books "HMS Rodney: Slayer of the Bismarck and D-Day Saviour" from Iain Ballantyne and "Rodney and Nelson (ShipCraft Book 23)" from Les and Robert Brown. Here you see the original workpiece, the numbers indicating parts I had to scrap of and to replace by modified PE or self-built lead sheet parts, and tools I do work with:
  18. As a tribute to a recently deceased modeller on another forum, all modellers from that forum are being asked to build a Spitfire, as this was the last kit he built. My chosen model is the Mark VII High Altitude. ICM have done a good job with the kit, but the only colour references show the Spit in a medium grey livery with a flat light blue underside. My question is, was the Mk VII ever flown in a standard camouflage, or was it only used in the grey livery? Any information will be appreciated.
  19. Does anybody know of a good 1/24 scale Lancaster Mk III kit for a reasonable price?
  20. For no explicable reason 2022 has not been a good year for my modelling mojo, I have achieved very little in the first seven months, and my attempt to get inspired via the Revell / Monogram GB is moving a less than a snails pace. So hopefully rescue has come through an unexpected source, as I have recently acquired a Thomas the Tank Engine layout from a friend, as his son is now into X-Box games and they are about to move house. The Thomas engines have been stored but my first project, to fully reuse the layout involves these (sorry for poor photo but it is a small segment of a photo taken on my phone. the long term objective is to use the layout as the base for my second world war dated layout which has been a armchair project for over 30 year. So , I started looking at what I could do to the houses and the current result is this; For the moment ignore the house on the left. I don't know what the source of the design the Airfix designers had, but trying to envisage an interior for these buildings is impossible, as the internal chimney stacks line up with windows in some places and its hard to work out where a bathroom would be. My thoughts are that they downsized a semi-detached house, From a 140's view point the integral garage had to go, as I cannot find any pictures of similar houses of the 1930's with this feature. Indeed Mrs 821 lived in a very similar building of the 1930's at which point no thought had been given to parking. So the garage has gone on the righthand house. Yes the heaviness of the widows does offend me but this is a project about rescuing and reusing the buildings,
  21. My first figure was this Tamiya greatcoat figure as part of a kit swap at my local IPMS group. Pretty pleased with the outcome all things considered and it has helped me with a few techniques and brush control that will transfer readily into my armour and plane modelling that I normally do. The greatcoat itself was painted using the ammo field grey set, with the res of the model being painted in citadel acrylics. Definitely recommend this model as a first one for anyone thinking of getting into painting figures due to the lack of skin tone to try and get to grips with.
  22. Right. So this is my first proper build thread. I started this kit in October, but never really got around to taking WIP photos before some of the basic structures were in place, so we begin this thread as they say "in medias res". After having a lot of fun with Academy's Warspite, I figured I'd have a go at Trumpeter's Hood. It is a very interesting, but also challenging subject as no kits are 100% correct. I therefore set my self the challenge to build a kit that would address some of the most glaring omissions on the original model, but I also wanted to build a visually interesting model, so some details would be left intentionally wrong, such as boats not being covered with canvas, and a few other odds and ends. For reference I decided to use the 1/200 Pontos upgrade set, as I believe this is supposed to be the most accurate set on the market, and Pontos provide many excellent quality pictures on their website. The parts I am using are so far: Trumpeter 1/350 Hood Lionroar PE set (New turrets and upgrades for the superstructure, among other things) Eduard Photoetch (Excellent detail, and also contains the proper framework for the catapult supports on X-turret) Wood deck from Pontos 4" guns and bridge equipment sets from North Star Models Brass masts and Pom Pom barrels from Master models 3d printed boats from Micro Master However this has turned out to be a somewhat frustrating build with lots of things not going quite according to plan. First of all the fit of the upper and lower hull weren't great. After some sanding and filling I got a reasonably smooth seam. For a bit of extra detailing I decided to try and simulate the layered hull plating on the lower hull using the masking tape and spray paint technique. Not overly succesfully though, as some flaking occured when removing the masking tape. I contemplated sanding everything down again, but opted against it, as I wasn't sure I could get the results I wanted. Instead I decided to try and mask the imperfections during painting and pass it off as weathering. Another challenge arose from the Lionroar upgrades for the superstructure. Unfortunately the photoetch bulkheads aren't that great a fit, which caused some weird issues when adding the boat deck on top. Some filling and bending resolved most of them, but not all solutions were particularly elegant. As mentioned I have been using both Lionroar and Eduard photoetch. The Lioroar set is a bit crude in places and the Eduard set have some estremely fine details, which are made from steel rather than brass for enhanced durability. However I have found the railings to be a real pain to work with. They are better scaled than the Lionroar set, but they bend extremely easily when you accidentally touch them and have proven very tricky to bend back into shape. The result is railing that looks rather wobbly in places. Terribly frustrating! The final challenge so far has been with regards to the main hull color. I mainly use Vallejo acrylic, where Mirage Blue is supposed to be fairly close to the correct dark blueish grey she wore in 1941. After a few tests i found that this color looked too dark on the model to my eye. I wanted something lighter, and slightly less blue, that would give me better contrasts once shading and weathering had been applied and really bring out details. However I have had a hard time finding a color that looked right to my eye. The main issue is that this is a large monochrome model, and if you do not add some color variation it just ends up looking rather dull on the shelf (camo working a bit too well I suppose). In the end I have been mixing Intermediate Blue and Light Grey in various shades and highlights usind an airbrush. The result looks promising, but it is going to be a real challenge to touch up any painting mistakes later on. The real fun with this kit has been the scratch building and trying to correct some of the errrors on the kit. After studying the 1/200 Pontos upgrade set I decided to leave the main hull mostly as it is and instead focus on the superstructure. the bridge and conning tower was rebuilt many times during the Hood's long service, and the result is a real mess of weirdly placed platforms, gangways and splinter shields. I omitted some splinter shields, as those would make the model almost impossible to paint and instead tried to get some overall shapes closer to the original. Other issues would require surgery on a level I wasn't confident I could pull off, without destroying the bridge completely, so I left those as they were. The aft superstructure and pom pom platform saw some significant changes as well. I filled in all the windows, as these were usually covered with canvas, and the Pontos set actually have portholes here instead. I am not sure this is 100% correct, but it looks better than the original. The Pom-Pom platform was lalso owered, which also looks more balanced in my opinion. Finally the masts were replaced with brass, which I think looks a lot better. First coat of paint on the hull, showing the failed attempt at hull plating, and some weathering experiments to cover up the worst mistakes. A bit of touching up and some oil colors will hopefully improve things somewhat...
  23. Hello peeps. Well, uk is in lockdown and I am working from home. In between work I will get some bench time. So time to have a play with an experimental aircraft. I bought the PM ho 229 from Tornado models in Birmingham and I set about engraving the panel lines and was all set to start until I managed to break the canopy.....The canopy was broken beyond repair and I couldn’t find a replacement and asked the good folks here for help getting a replacement. Then the very generous and superb gent @dogsbody kindly offered me the pioneer kit all the way from Canada. Blown away by his generosity that kit has now arrived and I will be building the pm kit and pioneer kit side by side. It will be a slow build but thanks to mr dogsbody (who I owe a pint to when all this blows over) I have crash moulded a new canopy. Here is the wonderful box art of the pioneer 229. It will be an adventure! At least the pioneer parts seem to fit. The pm one..........stay safe and enjoy the ride as I build both of these side by side.
  24. I rarely post on this site, but a mate suggested 3 of my recent 1/700 builds from 2022 might be worth posting, so here goes........ They are all 1/700 Trumpeter, and are the USS New York (BB-34), USS West Virginia (BB-48), and USS Alaska (CB-1) in their 1944/45 glory. I won't relate in any great detail here the ship histories, as I think we can all google search and /or check wiki and other sites for info on the individual ships and classes), but I will say that I enjoyed building the old WW1 veteran USS New York (sister ship of the probably more famous USS Texas) in it's late WW2 configuration with a large number of small calibre AA guns and amazing Measure 31a Design 8B camo scheme. This old BB is quite small compared to the more modern WW2 US BBs and is dwarfed by the Iowa Class. I have watched many youtube videos on the preserved sister ship USS Texas and found this a valuable resource and most of the videos were most informative and entertaining. The multi part (7 from memory) aircraft catapult on the middle turret gave me a small amount of grief as I do not own a bending tool, so ended up using fingers, a metal ruler and tweezers to make the multiple folds. The cranes also took a bit of work but look great in the end. The USS West Virginia was a rebuilt Pearl Harbour veteran (sank in shallow water and rebuilt) and a modernised Colorado Class which was back in service at the back end of the Pacific War and I finished her in Measure 32 7D scheme. Paints I used were Tamiya acrylic Nato Black XF-69 for the dull black, and the following from Life Colour US Navy WW2 acrylic sets 1 and 2 ..... 5-L light grey, 5-O Ocean Grey, and 20-B Deck Blue. The camo scheme was time consuming to paint and some masking was required as expected. Not too many other dramas experienced aside from the 'not great' instructions. The USS Alaska ends up being a surprisingly large ship in comparison to the 2 old BBs, and opinion seems to be split 50/50 on whether they are considered Battlecruisers or Large Cruisers (US Navy designation). My own thoughts are that Alaska and her 2 completed sisters shipped larger calibre main batteries than the Kriegsmarine Scharnhorst and Gneisenau and they WERE classed as Battlecruisers , and generally heavy cruisers had 8 inch guns during WW2, so they are Battlecruisers to me! They are also far larger than any other WW2 heavy cruiser at around 30,000 tonnes displacement and 808 feet in length. I finished her in Measure 32 7C with 5-L light grey and dull black camo and 20-B decks. All 3 ship kits are of fairly recent vintage and contain a good number of sprues with many tiny pieces (to be expected in 1/700!) - many of which ended up in my spares box, a smallish PE sheet, the usual instructions from Trumpeter which can be more than a little confusing at times if not studied well. I used mostly acrylic paints on all 3 ships and they were exclusively brush painted. My 30 plus year old basic Badger airbrush is in almost mint condition in one of my hobby desk drawers! I replaced the kit supplied SK-1 and SK-2 'solid' plastic radar dish and aerials from Flyhawk PE set FH700040. I am still working on the catapult floatplanes. I used 3 x magnification glasses when building and painting, but once high res pics are taken with phonecam, small blemishes become evident and I have had a fair amount of touch ups to do. Not a great situation when one is on the wrong side of 50 and the eyesight is not wonderful anymore. The fingers are still still steady enough though, which is one positive. No PE handrailings sorry - if I built 1/350 I would though. I'm considering building some Flyhawk RN WW2 1/700 cruisers next...with some trepidation! Posting images of these 3 USN ships (and an RN ring-in in one pic!) from my Flickr account now............
  25. dov

    Winkle Brown

    Maybe of interest Happy modelling
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