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Found 8 results

  1. Hello guys, Here are the photos of my latest completed model, Tamiya's 1:48 P-47D Razorback. The model was painted as "Little Chief," flown by Frank Klibbe.
  2. Now that I finished my build for the Fw 190 group build, I thought it'd be time to start the single remaining kit in my stash, Revell's 1:32 Bf 109G-10 Erla. Colour scheme will be of Yellow 7 from JG300 at the end of the war in Europe. I'll be following Eduard's painting instructions for this aircraft. Boxart: Eduard's painting instructions. Photo of the real aircraft. Cockpit and propeller done. I managed to break the clear fuel pipe that goes into the cockpit, but that was fixed with a but of glue. More progress tomorrow!
  3. This is a big box, with 330+ parts to work with and at 1/32 scale this is going to be a fun build for sure. On the left is the reference book I use to fine-tune the details of the model and check my assemblies for accuracy. This book actually reviews the kit I have on the bench now. 🤯 A lotta plastic here! The exterior parts come with fully molded panel lines and rivets, along with a small fret of photo-etch and rubber tires. The details are all crisp and sharp, but not too deep, so props to Trumpeter on those! Instruction booklet and painting guide, which is provided as a separate poster, for anyone who likes to frame these things. Overall the instructions are nicely arranged and explain the assembly process well. But of course... there are some inaccuracies. Here's a side-by-side of the painting guide next to the drawing in the reference book. You can see here that the shape of the nose and the wheel fairings are incorrect. The nose slopes too sharply on the model making the front look too streamlined, and the wheel fairings don't slope up sharply enough behind the wheels. Also the bomb trapeze is wrong, the kit supplied the style used on the later D and G variants (I'm putting this one down to they didn't want to mold a whole new sprue for just this one part, so they used the catch-all sprue intended for the more popular variants). The canopy parts have good clarity and very nice framing. For planes like these with complex frames, getting a masking set is a must for me, it is a huge time-saver and makes your canopies look super-clean. I use color-coded highlights in the instructions to set out my build order for each bit of the model. A given page, which is also where this build is going to start. And with that, our pre-build inspection is complete. Going by the instructions, we are starting with the fully-modeled Jumo 211 engine. Given this engine is fully modelled I think I have a solution for the engine cowling shape being off: just get rid of them and show off that engine in all its glory!
  4. Hola comrades. I'm building a subject that I don't quite want to reveal yet, all I can say is that it's a japanese second world war dive bomber built by Aichi. I got some eduard photo etch seatbelts for it but the instructions only mention belts for Mitsubishi, Nakajima & Kawanishi. Would anyone here know which belts Aichi aircraft used?
  5. Hello guys, it's been a while since I posted anything on the forum. This is my latest Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IXc. It's the 1:48 Revell rebox of the Hasegawa kit. The build was uneventful, but the decals took a long time to move from the backing paper (does anyone know if leaving the decal on the wet paper for some time makes it easier to move later?)
  6. It's been a long time since I actually wrote something here on Britmodeller, but here I am... :-) I'm going to build the new resin kit of the Swedish Air Force fighter J 22 in 1:48 scale from Planet Models. The FFVS J 22 is probably not very well known outside of Sweden. I'm not going to tell the entire story behind this little neat looking aircraft. For those who wants to know more I can recommend this site: https://web.archive.org/web/20120213150808/http://www.hobbybokhandeln.se/j22/index.htm Back in 2008 I visited the "Spielwarenmesse" in Nuremberg. I went there with a plan to convince some of the manufacturers to produce some kits of my favourite Swedish aircraft. I had a large pile of books filled with references about the SAAB J 21, the FFVS J22 and Swedish stuff in general. I ended up with the nice people at MPM/Special Hobby who showed great interest. I donated all my books to them... I'd like to think that I'm some way involved in at least this kit I now am going to build here. :-) I'm going to start by saying that I'm sorry if my language is lacking (I'm from Sweden) and for my photos are somewhat of poor quality. I mainly use my mobile phone which has a very bad camera. I forgot to take pictures of the kit before I started to build... Here are some of the main resin components after cleanup. Although it is not apperant in this lousy photo the quality of the resin parts is excellent. The first impression is that the fit also is very good. The canopy is vacu and is very clear and you got an extra spare if you fail with the first one. The undercarriage is in white metal and you get a small etched sheet with some nice details. I mentioned a book about the J 22 earlier and it's excellent. It's "FFVS J22 - Flyghistorisk Revy" and is from around 1990. The book contains some very nice, detailed drawings. I tried to match the main parts to the drawings and the actually match perfectly! I suspect that Planet Models used this book when they designed the kit... :-) Note the matching detail on the rudders and flaps! My only complaint so far is that the detail on the rudders and flaps are a bit overstated. A few swipes with the sanding stick fixed that without any troubles. I also have the Kora FFVS J 22 which was the only J 22 in 1:48 prior to this release. The Planet Model kit is a much better kit. However I'm going to use a few pieces from Kora, for example some of the etch is better. I'm also replacing the engine with a C-47/DC-3 one from Quickboost. Not that there is much wrong with the Planet Model one but the detail is a little sharper and I got a few of those Quickboost engines very cheap at a local swap meet. Here is the Quickboost C-47/DC-3 engine with some detail from the Kora etched sheet. I know it's a bit pointless since the J 22 had a rather big spinner in front hiding most of the engine. Well, I already had the engine lying around on my bench so... Here is it after applying some paint. It will do... There were a few airbubbles in the resin at the very front of the cowling so they had to be filled. I splashed on a litte Tamiya silver spray paint to see if I suceeded in removing them. To be continued... Andreas
  7. Hello Chaps, It's been a long haul build- 8 weeks in total, but that is because my wife and I are actively involved with contractors working on our new home that we will be moving to in mid-April....sorting out kitchen design, wood flooring, carpeting, tiles for kitchen and bathrooms, shower designs, paint colors for every room, new faucets for all sinks, choosing granite countertops and sinks for kitchen and bathrooms, new light fixtures and door handles etc etc....I hope this is the last time we have to move now, moving is a stressful and tiring event! Anyway, enough of the waffle and lets get on with sharing photos of my completed build, which is built straight from the box, no after market additions, only using 1.010" fine black EZ-Line for the antenna cables. I hope you like.... Regarding what I think of this kit: It's a great kit that goes together well, has some nice features such as a highly detailed cockpit, pose-able ailerons, flaps, elevators, rudder and air-brakes, recessed panel lines and other surface detail. The parts were all molded very well, with minimal flash and/or parting line miss-match that required clean up before painting. It offers two sets of markings, I chose to do this version that was active in the "Battle of Britain", and the decals are excellent- they go down very well on a gloss clear coat with no silvering, and once the finishing matt clear coat was applied, they look painted on. I did come across two issues during the build: 1) When fitting the engine nacelles to the undersides of the wings, I had a considerable gap between the mating areas of the front and rear nacelles. This is discussed in my "Final Reveal" video and can be seen in my "WIP" thread....links below: 2) When fitting the wheels onto their axles, both axles sheared off very easily and remained inside the wheel mating holes. I drilled these out of the wheels and drilled corresponding holes into the wheel struts and fitted steel pins. I then took a black rubber Tamiya propeller bushing and cut it down the middle to create two thinner bushings. I slid these over the new steel axles and super glued them into place. These then provided some surface area for the wheel hubs to glue to. Again, I used CA glue to fit the wheels in place and it worked a treat, providing me with a very rigid and stronger undercarriage. WIP thread link: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234996419-revell-pro-modeler-132-junkers-ju-88a-1-bomber-build-update-5-31516/ My YouTube "Final Reveal" video link: This kit would be superb if it came with two completely detailed Jumo 211B-1 engines, external bomb pylons and bombs and an open bomb bay with internal bomb racks and bombs!! That would make it super eye candy and a fabulous kit to work on.....I can dream! Thanks in advance for taking a look at this RFI and for any comments left, they are greatly appreciated! In the meantime, and until the start of my next build which won't be until we have moved and settled into our new home-probably the end of April, happy modeling and have fun! Cheers Martin
  8. This October AFV Club are releasing a great 1/35 Bussing NAG L4500A German Kfz 100 with a Bilstein 3T Plastic Model Kit to add to your collection. This great kit includes new injected crane parts, fantastic detailing and some precision photo-etch parts! Well worth a look! For full details, please see our newsletter here.
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